Passion for Wine and Life
2013 May
2013 MAY
HK$38
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Cover Story
panel Tasting
En Primeur
Burgundy is Brilliant!
The Cream of the Crop
Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 波爾多2012酒花速報
勃艮第的精采！
勃艮第精華遊
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TABLE OF CONTENTS #029 May 2013
Wine
Life
釀
‧
生活
‧
Cru Speech
Hotel Life
010 We Are All Heros 沒有絕對，我們都是英雄。 012 Acidity and Wine Part 2: the chemistry and microbiology 酸度與葡萄酒 第二部份： 化學與微生物學
112
016 Cru Corner
The Ritz Carlton Hong Kong : On Top of the World 香港麗思卡爾頓酒店: 世界之最
100 Cru World of Wines
Cru Special 020 024
020
Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 波爾多2012酒花速報 Robert Mondavi Winery - Immortal Vineyard Robert Mondavi Winery - 永垂 不朽的莊園
Le French GourMay – Burgundy is Brilliant! 法國五月美食節 — 勃艮第的精采！
The Pursuit of Terroir in the Cotes Part II 對 Terroir的完美追求 A Caretaker in Ardèche Ardèche的守護者 Austrian Whites and Asian Dishes 奧地利白酒與亞洲菜 100 A Barolo of Memory 那些年的⋯⋯Barolo
Cru Voyage 102 Crémant de Bourgogne in Rully Rully的勃艮第氣泡酒
Cru Story 026
092 096 098
Cru Tasting 046 The Cream of the Crop 勃艮第精華遊
112 Art Life 114 118
Le French May 2013 Programmes 法國五月藝術節精采節錄 Art and Culture at HAJI
Beauty Life 120 Wine as a skincare treatment 葡萄護膚
Cru Leader 106 Fathers & Sons of Bordeaux 波爾多的父與子
Cru Investment 108 En Primeur Investment (Part 1) 酒花投資指南（一）
Cru Review
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Camus celebrates 150 anniversary with Camus Cuvée 5.150 Camus 150週年隆重推出 Camus Cuvée 5.150
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Letters from the Editor Believing destiny? 不信命 Many people have a certain stubborn belief when it comes to “good” or “bad” vintages, and few places attract as much generalization as Bordeaux, which we have written about this issue. “Everything ending with seven is bad and those ending with five are excellent,” some might say. 1987, 1997 and 2007 may not be great glorious vintages; they might even be called bad vintages. But have you ever tried these “bad vintages”? I can tell you they aren’t that bad. In a gathering with my wine friends a few years back, we tried an array of 1997 Bordeaux because they were said to be bad. But they were really quite enjoyable. And last year when sharing with another group of friends, we tried all the grand crus from St. Julien and found out that there are a few outstanding ones. Wines are meant to be consumed and then perhaps rated; not judged solely by the vintage. People always underestimate how humans can affect wine—just think of the enjoyable wines we get out of bad years. 2012 is the same. When you know how much work the farmers and winemakers have put into the vineyards and cellars in a “bad” year, you will treasure those rare good wines even more than the perfect wines you had in a “good” year. In Burgundy, we also had a fighter against destiny: Henri Jayer. He left us a great gem in Vosne Romanée called Cros Parantoux. He started to work on this little vineyard in 1945 because he believed in her potential even when everyone told him it was bad. Now it proves that he is right. In the world of wine, there is no destiny solely decided by the soil or climate, as humans almost help interpret the true meaning of terroir. 原來有不少人也會把命理學說放到葡萄酒上，例如我們今期其中一個熱門話題，波爾多酒花。經常聽人說什麼逢七必差，什麼五字尾必是好酒。1987、1997 及2007或許不是很好的年份，甚至會被認為是表現差的年份，但你沒有喝過好的97嗎？我記得幾年前相約一班酒友一起開了一堆1997的波爾多，不同產區的 都有，其實並不是想像中的那樣差，2007年的波爾多，我去年跟朋友一次過品嚐了整個St. Julien區的所有列級酒款，其實有不少有實力的酒莊釀造出非凡的酒 釀。葡萄酒，始終是要喝過才可下定論的，不是看一大堆曆法便知好壞。人在葡萄酒佔的比重，多 得你無法想像，全憑經驗富的釀酒師及不斷進步的技術，在被譽為差的年份我們還可以有好酒 喝。今年的2012酒花也是同樣的道理，你知道葡萄農、釀酒師所花的工夫後，你會更加珍 惜這些在困難年份釀成的美味葡萄酒。那些所謂命，也只是片面之說。
至於在勃艮第，我們也曾經有一位不信命的表表者，Henri Jayer。這位已離 開我們的勃艮第酒神，獨力發掘出現在被譽為Vosne Romanée其中一塊最寶 貴的葡萄園Cros Parantoux，由1945年開始努力開發這片他認為具潛力的土 地，之前的人都篤信這是一片沒價值的田地，終日荒廢。所以天命還天命， 在葡萄酒的世界，謀事在人，成事在天，付出的一定會有回報的。
Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com
Editorial Director : Eddie Chui
Publisher : Cru Media Limited
Features Editor : Joe Lo
Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham
Assistant Editor : Ian Wong
Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Tasting Editor : Francois Luck
Tel : (852) 3568 9100
Creative Director : Jenkin Ma
Fax : (852) 3568 9101
Designer : Louise Pak
E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com
Photographer : Alvin Luk
Website : www.cru-magazine.com
Advisor : Asif Bajwa, Dennis Yong
Facebook Fan Page : www.facebook.com/cru.magazine
Business Director : Nicholas Siu Associate Account Director : Queenie Ho Account Manager : Jon Osborne
Printer : KiLi Printing & Production Co. (852) 3595 0196
Sales & Marketing Manager : Rachel Tung
Distrbution Service : Blackstone Concepts (852) 3481 0518
Marketing Executive : Eva Tse
All rights reserved 版權所有，翻印必究
Circulation Manager : Simon Ha
ISSN 2221016-4
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Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines
Joe Lo Feature Editor joe@cru-magazine.com
Gourmet Season 美食之季 For French cuisine fans, May is always the busiest month as during Le French GourMay, more than 60 participating restaurants and bars will join in the festivities. There is a specific theme every year and this time it is regarding the famous home of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir: Burgundy! But not just the wines are great, the fragrant goat cheeses of the region are to die for when paired with a nice Chardonnay, as the acidity mixes in just perfectly with the rich mineral taste of the cheese. It’s one of the great pleasures in life. C 每年的五月都是法國迷最忙碌的月份，事關法國五月美食節期間將會有超
過60多間餐廳酒吧推出特別餐牌或推廣。每年的美食節均有一個特定的主 M 題和地區，今屆便以著名的Pinot
Noir與Chardonnay酒鄉勃艮第為主， Y
不只是酒釀造得出色，其實勃艮第也是香濃的羊奶芝士出產地，配以高酸 CM 度、帶豐厚礦物味的白酒同吃，簡直是人生一大快事！
MY
CY
CMY
Ian Wong Assistant Editor ian@cru-magazine.com
K
The Recent Vintages of Burgundy 勃艮第的最新年份 It was a great pleasure during our Burgundy panel tasting this month to see how ready these young wines were. The 2008’s were opening up superbly, showing great balance as promised. The 2009s are even more delicious than when we tried many last year, and even the 2010’s will perform with an hour of decanting. It was also interesting when all the wines from one village were of the same vintage such as the 2009 Chardonnays from St. Aubin. It really gave us a chance to try a wide range of styles from the producers and the terroir.
Thomas Palmer Fine German wines is a boutique German wine company which specializes in the Erste Lage Riesling wines of the Nahe wine region of Germany. "Erste Lage" is the German word for the best single vineyards in Germany. Historically over hundreds of years these Erste Lage vineyards have produced the highest quality wines in Germany. Our German owned wine company is the exclusive importer and distributor in Hong Kong of five VDP Nahe wines estates and one VDP Mittelrhein wine estate:
Tesch (2012 German Wine Maker of the Year) Kruger-Rumpf Schaefer-Froehlich (2010 German Wine Maker of the Year) Ratzenberger Dr. Crusius Gut Hermannsberg (2012 German Rising Star of the Year)
Our company's founder/director comes from a wine village in the Nahe wine region and is honored to share his culture with the people of Hong Kong. It would be a pleasure for us to provide you with recommendations of different Erste Lage Riesling Nahe wines for any occasion or to host a Erste Lage wine tasting for your next celebration or corporate event
今個月的品酒會能夠一次過品嘗這些年輕又已經適飲的酒款，實在是太好 了！2008年的酒款都成熟得不錯，呈現出相當不錯的平衡度；2009年的 酒款比起去年試的時候味道更佳，而 2010則需要約一小時的時間醒酒。 另外，能夠一次過品嘗同一條村莊、同一個年份的酒的機會也是相當難得 的，像來自St.Aubin的Chardonnay眾酒款。這實在是給予了我們一個體 驗當地風土的絕佳機會。
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Contact Information: Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines (H.K.) Ltd. Room 3905, Two Exchange Square Suite 8089, 8 Connaught Place, Central Tel: (852) 9137-1296 E-mail: martin@finegermanwines.hk Website: www.finegermanwines.hk
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C O N T R I B U T O R S
Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾．貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景，亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師，更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。
Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇，愛好美酒美食，大 中華酒評人協會會員，英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》，電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。
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Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡．德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編，並於 1996 年與米歇爾．貝塔納 （Michel Bettane）合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南，內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師， 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地，從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師，都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述，極具天賦能力。
Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 ， 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣， Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素，以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。
Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.
Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong. Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.
劉涵濤在香港出生，於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師，2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起，曾於澳洲的南澳，維多利亞 省，法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作，現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師，亦同時用自然，低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒，「傳」。
Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗，考獲 WSET
Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.
高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師，亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course，亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。
Dorothy Ma A girl born in the 80’s who has worked in some record companies and advertisment companies, Dorothy is a full time marketing executive and part time blogger. She believes there are no ugly women in the world, only lazy ones. 80 後女生，曾在唱片公司及廣告公司工作， 正職市場推廣，副業寫博客。深信沒有醜的 女人，只有懶惰的，所以最愛試不同的美容產 品，讓自己變得更有自信、漂亮。
單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名，用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite，企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上，生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食，及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業，可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。
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T a s t i n g
Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s Singtao Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師，擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》，並在 多家報章雜誌包括：《茶杯雜誌》、 《信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄，亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道－美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。
Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was awarded the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒，2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格，並成為香港首批 CSW，並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體，並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書（萬里機構 出版）。
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Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說，每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情，因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程，充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後，現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 ， 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。
Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判，並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一，持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格，對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。
Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny from Burgundy and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎，亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣，他先後任職於不 同酒商，包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ，並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教，曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒， 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。
P a n e l
Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師，亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程， 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ，鳳凰衛視，瑪麗嘉 兒，味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一，Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。
Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist of Spirits from the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會（ WSET ）的文憑資 格，亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士，並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗，亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。
Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA. She has attained Sommelier certification from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia.
Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few She now acts as the General Manager to Independent Wine Centre.
Jordan Choy Certificated Bordeaux Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday Bordeaux 2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist.
Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師，同為一
Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College
為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書。 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」，成為中國/香港的 代表，遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。
的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異 成績畢業，翌年更考獲 WSET 第五 級 榮 譽 文 憑 。 自 2003 年 起 一 直 在 世界各地的許多酒莊工作，由英國 Bookers和葡萄牙Adega do Cantor 的小型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema 的大型酒莊都有她的足 跡。現為Independent Wine Centre 的總經理。
法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師（L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux），香港葡萄酒 學會導師，曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯，撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審，包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。
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T a s t i n g
Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣， 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展，並接受不同 崗位的訓練，親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化，對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛，把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師，既能發揮其 個人所長，亦可寓工作於娛樂。
P a n e l
Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 ， J o rd i 現 為 A S C F i n e W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier，亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項，包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍，亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。
Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender Association. He is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t W i n e L i s t Aw a rd s 2008 and 2009, also the California Grapes International Inc., and the Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員，亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes International Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一，自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍，更於 2006
Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼
Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”
助理餐飲經理，以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師， 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師，對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍，並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮，是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師，前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。
香港最年輕侍酒師之一，Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道：「作為一名侍酒 師，我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」
Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.
Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.
年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。
Benny Chung B e n n y C h u n g i s t h e P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.
Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in finedining restaurant Cépage as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.
Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.
Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團飲食部 項目經理，熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格，同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。
Gon曾留學於瑞士，修讀酒店管理課 程，回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作，現為法國餐廳Cépage的品 酒師，憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒 佳餚的搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約 七年前於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡 萄酒，也在學習上、工作上不斷加深 認識及接觸葡萄酒，越來越被這種神 之水滴所吸引。
Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久，當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間，Kevin除了在工作中不斷
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汲取經驗外，更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程，成為一位出色的品酒師，對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師，對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉，當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。
天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣，母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多，曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作，亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作，自此愛上亞 洲，現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師。
Katrina於2006年加入飲食業，現正 於香港日航酒店工作，主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她，已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽，不但成功進入香港區五 強，最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍，被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。
26/04/2013 7:07 PM
T a s t i n g
Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師，現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師，曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍，被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。
Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間，由 公關到宴會搞手，到作家與記者、導 師，她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。
Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.
從事飲食業十多年，Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 ， 曾 為 G r a n d C r u ( C o v a G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。
來自意大利 Friuli ，長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理，現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。
Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Central Wine Club. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年，曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師，現為 Central Wine Club的品酒師。
Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET.
剛贏得了大中華品酒師大賽的冠軍。
曾於澳洲留學，Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師，現 為Mamoz餐飲經理。
品酒師；葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家，亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。
Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師，從事多年飲食界相關行 業，經驗豐富，現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒，希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。
Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.
Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.
Andy She Andy is Sommelier of the Miramar Group which includes Cuisine Cuisine and the French Window. He previously worked in Langham Hotel as a hotel wine steward for 8 years.
Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage.
Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年，曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作，現為Amo Eno的經理 兼品酒師。
Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作，包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille，Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines，現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。
Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition.
資深新聞工作者，葡萄酒愛好者， 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。
Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Hong Kong. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites.
充滿熱情。
Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.
Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the manager of Mamoz.
Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association.
Vincent是香港朗廷酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年，Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣
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Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request.
P a n e l
Andy 是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品油師。他剛
Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證
Andy 是 美 麗 華 集 團 的 品 酒 師 ， 負 責國金軒及The French Window餐 廳。之前也在朗廷酒店工作超過 8 年。
Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar.
擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書，Don曾 於Domani，香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作，現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。
26/04/2013 7:08 PM
T a s t i n g
Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head Sommelier of Fuk Lam Moon Group. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred hotels including InterContinental Hong Kong, RitzCarlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年，曾於不同 的五星級酒店工作，包括：香港洲 際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅 香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒 專業資格，也是香港專業品酒師協 會會員。
P a n e l
Danny Ng Holding the WSET Level 3 Certificate, Danny is currently working in the American Club as Assistant Sommelier. He has worked in the “Church St. Enotica” Italian restaurant in Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He has also worked in Betty’s Kitchen as a sommelier. 現於美國會任職助理品酒師，曾於 Betty’s Kitchen任職品酒師。Danny 亦曾於澳洲「 Church St. Enotica」 意大利餐廳工作一年，亦是他認識 葡萄酒和鍾情於澳洲葡萄酒的地 方。 Danny 亦持有香港葡萄酒教育 中心第三級。
Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong & Langham Place Mongkok. As a member of the HKSA, she also has an advanced WSET level certificate. Joey is now working as a sommelier in the China Club. Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐 飲管理學士學位課程，畢業後更於 美國 Renaissance Hotel 實習。曾 在香港君悅酒店及旺角朗豪酒店工 作，擁有 WEST 第三級證書，亦為 香港專業品酒師協會成員之一。現 於中國會擔任侍酒師。
Vincent Chue Vincent Chue received fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine. Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄 酒訓練，並取得WSET的進階證書， 同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲 得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班 牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理，對 西班牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。
Casy Chau Recognized as Senior Sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Casy has worked as Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International, Sommelier of Indochine Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments, Assistant Sommelier of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, Vintage Cellar Hand of Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wines, also the author of the wine and travelling lifestyle book “Wine Me”. Casy是香港專業品酒師協會認可高 級品酒師，曾擔任富豪國際酒店集團 及蘭桂坊餐娛概念集團品酒師、香 港遊艇會助理品酒師及Leasingham Wines和Houghton Wines酒窖員 工，著有葡萄酒、旅遊及品味生活書 籍《Wine Me》。
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Enoteca-Ad.indd 1
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Cru Speech
We Are All Heros 沒有絕對，我們都是英雄。 English Text: Michel Bettane Translation: Eddie Chui
My friend François Audouze organizes wine dinners tasting old
我的朋友 François Audouze經常舉辦葡萄酒晚宴，常常品試舊年份的酒，
vintages, one of his favorite things to do is alternate between
而他最愛的小玩意便是把玩著名產區跟卑微酒款之間的把戲。上一次他便帶
prestigious appellations and more modest wines. He blew us
來了一瓶由Châteauneuf du Pape某不知名酒莊釀造的1960年Bourgogne
away a few days ago with a 1960 Bourgogne Blanc Aligoté from
Blan Aligoté白葡萄酒。這完全是一個無法想像的組合，平凡的年份已過了黃
an unknown winery in Châteauneuf du Pape. It seemed to be an
金時期，加上普通到極的Appellation及平庸的葡萄品種，加上是由區外較偏
unbelievable juxtaposition; from a mediocre vintage that was way
遠的地方所釀造，毫不起眼的葡萄酒！但無法相信的是，這樣的一瓶酒仍然
past its prime, a mediocre appellation and grape variety, and it was
非常美味，酒的顏色仍然淺淡，聞起來沒有絲毫的老態，散發出陣陣花香、
produced at a winery far from the source of the grapes!
榛子、蕨葉及鮮杏仁的香。酒質純淨，沒有半點氧化，酒塞全美。他正好給 予我們一次很好的經驗及提示，大家或許在這過於商業化的年代已遺忘的，
Well, believe it or not, the wine was truly delicious, the color still
是我們太過著重葡萄酒的品種，這瓶酒正好表達到釀酒過程其中一樣最重要
light, not a trace of age on the nose, even showing delicate notes
的元素不是品種，而是她生長在那裡。我們那時有猜想過這是一瓶陳年得
of hazelnut, flower, ferns, and fresh almonds. The wine was pure,
很好的Chardonnay，或者是經過長期熟成，在Muscadet釀造的Melon葡萄
showing no reduction, with a perfect cork. But the great lesson that
酒，這品種也曾經在勃艮第地區釀造。
this wine taught us, and that is often forgotten in this modern, overly commercial world, is that the grape variety is not the most important
現今的「新世界」酒莊多會以葡萄品種為中心，甚至作為一種品牌或標準去
element in a wine, where the grapes were grown is. We might have
引起消費者的關注，這也令大家認為葡萄酒的風格最主要是受葡萄品種的影
guessed that this wine was a Chardonnay that aged magnificently
響。在加州，直呼一杯Chardonnay或Sauvignon Blanc就好像香檳或啤酒
or even for an extraordinary old “Melon” from the Muscadet region,
一樣普通。就算是在法國，不少人正在爭取在原有法定產酒區的標籤上加上
which at one time was also planted in Burgundy!
有關葡萄品種的說明，希望藉此能在國際市場上更有競爭力，也能爭取更多 人的認同。一堆堆的葡萄品種分類由此而生，看似是使她們的名字更廣為人
Today, the public is lead to believe that the character of a wine
知，但其實我覺得是令她們更商業化。其實這種做法是不合理的，盲目地把
comes from the grape variety and the “new world” has even turned
葡萄品種規限在一種概有或傳統的水平上，低估了個別品種發揮出高水準的
the grape into a brand or a reference in order to raise consumer
可能性。而這瓶非一般的Aligoté更加告訴我們，如果給予充分的時間讓某一
awareness! In California you order a Chardonnay or a Sauvignon
terroir去展現她的潛力（當然不是每次都要45年的長時間！），葡萄酒的味
Blanc just like you would for Champagne or a beer. In France, fought
道絕對可以超越年份及terroir所作出的規限。
to change the legislation so that the name of the grape is allowed to appear on the label along with the appellation so that they can
以此作例子，黏土及石炭土質的土壤所含的礦物風味，加上明亮的酸度，很
compete in international markets and to appeal to consumers within
容易讓人聯想起法國北部的葡萄園。這經過裝飾的Aligoté，完完全全的從出
our borders too! We have therefore created an idiotic hierarchy of
生地取得她的膚色、深度，甚至是說話時的口音。一瓶Chardonnay未必能表
grape varieties, more or less prestigious, meaning in reality, more or
現得這樣優秀，當然也不是注定要這樣出色，但無可奈何地她確能賣得貴一
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“
Forget about the set-in-stone classifications; give each wine, even the most humble, the chance to wow us at the right time and the right pace. 我們應該暫時放下偏見，放下既有的分級、 評級，給一些過往不起眼或被認為是低級的 酒，在適當的時候帶給我們一些驚喜。
”
less commercial. The notion is absolutely ridiculous; it is in essence a chauvinistic philosophy restricting any grape from rising above the limits set by tradition. But this extraordinary Aligoté reminds us: if we give a terroir the time to express itself (though it rarely takes 45 years thank goodness!) the taste of a wine is above all shaped by the vintage and the terroir! On this occasion the minerality of the clay and limestone soil and the bright acidity of the vineyards that exist in the northern half of France was easily recognized. The camouflaged Aligoté, took on the color, the smell and the depth of its birthplace and even spoke with the accent of the vintage. A Chardonnay couldn’t have performed any better, and certainly wouldn’t have, but it would have been pointlessly more expensive. In an ideal world, there will come a
點。在我的心目中，總有一天會變得更理想，大家的意
day when opinions will change, preconceptions will disappear, and
見會改變過來，一些既定的概念會消失，所有的葡萄酒
wines will be judged for what they are and not for what they are trying
都以會她們的表現作為評價的標準，而不是基於她們的
to be. This is why we must encourage the open and democratic
定位而去評價。我認為應鼓勵多點開放態度的酒評，例
vision of wine that the American critics are trying to impose on the
如好像美國那些酒評人通常較傳統的歐洲人開放自由一
old European guard, despite the excessive and sometimes perverse
些，當然有時可能會對市場帶來較大的衝擊，但不一定
effects that they may have on the market.
是壞事。我們應該暫時放下偏見，放下既有的分級、評 級，給一些過往不起眼或被認為是低級的酒，在適當的
Forget about the set-in-stone classifications; give each wine, even
時候帶給我們一些驚喜。同時間，好些傳統的舊產區，
the most humble, the chance to wow us at the right time and the
他們多個世紀的經驗、傳統都值得我們學習和尊重，他
right pace. But keep in mind that the experience and traditions of
們能夠在市場、酒迷的心目中有著多年的地位絕對有一
these old regions deserve our respect, there’s a reason that these
些原因讓我們去欣賞的。在同一晚宴中，我們有一瓶
vineyards that have been admired for centuries. At this same dinner,
1950年的Haut-Brion，酒質淡薄，老態畢現，但當配
a 1950 Haut-Brion, which appeared thin and old, was reborn when
上由名廚Patrick
paired with a truffle dish created by the great chef Patrick Pignol.
復活起來。這是一個很好的例子說明，列級好酒不一定
A sublime combination that reminded us that a Grand Cru is never
是獨自享用較美味，而是在用餐時也可以表現得更好。
better than when it is enjoyed at the dinner table, in competition
其實這些類似的比較我們還是不用放在心上，反正我們
only with itself. Let’s leave behind all of these competitions and
不是在比賽，只有單車比賽或棒球賽的粉絲才會更加關
confrontations to cyclists or baseball fans. Wine, and great wine
心誰勝誰負吧。葡萄酒，尤其是偉大的葡萄酒更應受到
certainly deserve better!
更佳的尊重。
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Cru Speech
Acidity &Wine Part 2:
the chemistry and microbiology 酸度與葡萄酒 第二部份：化學與微生物學 English Text : Han Tao Lau Translation : Sophie Siow
In my article last month, I outlined the importance of pH and acidity in
在上個月的文章裡，我概述了pH值和酸度在防止腐敗葡萄酒變質的重要性。然
preventing the spoilage of wine. Ultimately though, the aim of any
而，每一位釀酒師最終的目的都是釀造可口的葡萄酒，要達到這個目標，酸度
winemaker is to make wines that taste good, and acidity really is hugely
確實是非常重要的。
important in achieving this aim. Firstly, it is important to identify what acidity is from an organoleptic point of
首先，我們要從感官的角度來認識何謂酸度。酸度或酸味，與甜味、鹹味、苦
view. Acidity, or sourness, is one of the five traditional senses of taste, the
味和鮮味是傳統的五味之一。我們的味蕾是含有受體細胞的器官，能夠收集這
others being sweetness, saltiness, bitterness, and umami. These tastes are
些味道。根據不同的味道，各種分子和離子結合到這些受體的細胞，這些細胞
picked up by various types of taste buds, which are organs containing receptor
隨後把電流沖擊發送衝到大腦，由大腦去傳譯味道。所以我們品嚐酸的食物或
cells. Depending on the type of taste, various molecules and ions bind to these
液體所嘗到的 酸度其實是酸的味覺受體受到刺激引起的反應或回應。
receptor cells, which then transmit an electrical impulse to the brain where the taste is then interpreted. The taste of acidity that one encounters when tasting
味蕾主要分佈在舌頭上，但同時也能在嘴、包括嘴的頂口和兩側、以及喉嚨的
sour foods or liquids is therefore the reaction or response caused by acid taste
後方找到它們的蹤影。因此在品嚐葡萄酒時，確保酒涮洗在口腔周圍是重要
receptors being stimulated.
的，這樣能確保最多的受體盡受到刺激。同樣重要的是，要注意我們經常遇到 的「舌頭地圖」，也就是那顯示了不同部分的舌負責哪種口味的分佈圖，其實
While taste buds are located primarily on the tongue, they are also found all
是非常不準確的。事實上，舌頭上的所有部分都包含所有不同的基本味道受體
over the mouth, including the roof and sides of the mouth, as well as the back
細胞。雖然由一些味蕾比其他的味蕾對某一些口味可能比較敏感，當中的差異
of the throat. For this reason, it is important therefore when tasting wines to
是微小的，而且很容易被其他因素，如唾液分泌、溫度、食物或液體的質感影
ensure it is swished around in the mouth to make sure as many receptors
響，所以所謂的舌頭地圖意義不大。
as possible are stimulated. It is also important to note that the commonly encountered “tongue map” diagram, which shows that different parts of the
酸度對葡萄酒的味道之所以如此重要，是因為它是構成我們所感知的所謂葡
tongue are responsible for different tastes, is in fact highly inaccurate. In reality,
萄酒的平衡的一個重要部分。當酸度太少，葡萄酒喝起來會有不足和薄弱的感
all the parts of the tongue contain all the different receptor cells for the basic
覺，好像缺乏了一點新鮮，亦可能會導致其他的味道和香氣顯得過於主導；當
tastes. While some taste buds may be more sensitive for some tastes than
酸度過多，酒的味道不僅會太酸，酒還可能顯得過於單寧或辛辣。此外，酸度
others, these differences are so minute and so heavily influenced by other
對於平衡的剩餘的糖分或甜度是同樣重要的，又以甜酒為例，如果酸度太少，
factors such as saliva production, temperature, and textures of food or liquids,
酒喝起來會太甜、發膩和沉重，就像在喝糖漿一樣。因此酸度能為甜酒帶來悠
that the tongue map really bears no significance.
長和清爽的特質。相反，在高酸度的葡萄酒如Mosel Riselings和 Champagne 中，微量的甜味則可以幫助平衡酸度和避免酒喝起來太尖銳或酸。因此，適當
Acidity is important in the taste of wine because it is a crucial component in the
的酸度能使葡萄酒可口清新，而不只是平淡乏味。
perceived balance of a wine. When there is too little acid, a wine can taste short, flabby, like it is lacking in freshness, and may cause other tastes and flavours
那麼，怎樣才能好好操縱葡萄酒裡的酸度呢？一如以往，最關鍵的部分是在葡
to appear too dominant. With too much acid, not only can the wine taste too
萄園的階段。當葡萄變熟，從轉色期開始白葡萄的顏色從綠轉黃，紅葡萄的顏
sour, it can make the wine seem overly tannic or astringent. Furthermore,
色從綠轉紫；葡萄開始軟化，香氣的化合物和糖開始增加，酸度開始降低。因
acidity is vital in providing a balance with residual sugar, or sweetness. In sweet
此，這個葡萄成熟的過程和被採集的階段對所釀造出來的葡萄酒的酸度是非常
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“
With global warming becoming more and more evident over the years, the way in which the climate has influenced acidity in winemaking has also become more evident.
隨著全球暖化多年來變得越來越明顯，氣候對釀酒時的酸度影響 的也日益顯著。在某些地區如波爾多，pH值正隨著時間逐漸增加。
”
dessert wines for example, if there is too little acid, the wine can taste too sweet, cloying, and heavy – it would be like drinking syrup. Acidity therefore gives dessert wines length and a refreshing quality. Conversely, in high acid wines like Mosel Rieslings and Champagne, a bit of sweetness in the wine can help balance out the acidity and stop the wine from being too tart or sour. A balanced acidity will therefore make a wine taste refreshing, rather than one dimensional and tiresome. So how can acidity be manipulated in wines? As ever, the most crucial part is in the vineyard stage. When grapes ripen, from the stage known as veraison onwards, the colour of the grapes change from green to yellow for white grapes, and from green to purple in red grapes. The grapes start to soften, flavour compounds and sugars start to increase, and acidity begins to decrease. As a result, the stage during the ripening process at which the grapes are picked is hugely important to the acidity of the wine that is made. Pick early, and acidity will be higher, pick later, and there will be less acid. Cooler climate wine regions and cooler years will result in higher acid levels than warmer climates and warmer years. In cooler years, grapegrowers may choose to remove some
A sample of tartaric acid, which is usually dissolved in 10 times its weight in water before being added to wine. Tartaric acid is slightly lumpier than citric acid, and a little bit more difficult to dissolve than the latter. 酒石酸的晶體，通常是溶解於十倍重量的水中才加進酒內。酒石酸較檸檬酸結構更緊密，因此 較難溶解。
of the leaves around the fruit zone to expose the grapes to more sunlight – this would also allow the grapes to ripen more quickly and help acid levels to
重要的。早收成的話，酸度會較高；晚收成的話，酸度會較低。氣候涼爽的酒
drop. Conversely, during warmer years, especially in regions where grapes can
區或較冷的年份的葡萄比氣候和溫或較溫暖的年份的葡萄會帶來較高的酸度。
sometimes struggle to retain enough acid, growers may choose to allow the
在較冷的年份，葡萄種植者可以選擇剪掉一些果實周圍的葉子，好讓葡萄暴露
leaves to shade the fruit to stop the acidity from dropping too quickly.
在更多的陽光下-這樣會讓葡萄成熟的更快，從而幫助酸度下降。相反，在溫暖 的年份中，特別是在那些本來已經要很努力確保葡萄有足夠酸度的酒區，種植
Once the grapes are in the winery, the most obvious way to increase the acidity
者可以選擇讓葉子遮蔽果實，籍亦阻止酸度下降得太快。
of the juice or wine is through the addition of acid, or acidification. In Australia, this is quite widely practiced especially in warmer years. The acids used are
一旦葡萄離開了果園，進入了酒廠，增加酸度果汁或酒的酸度最明顯的方式就
usually tartaric acid for both red and white wines, and white wines may also
是通過加入酸，即進行」酸化」。這在澳洲是相當廣泛使用的方法，尤其是在
see some citric acid being used. Both acids come in crystal form, and have an
溫暖的年份。在紅酒和白酒當中都常用的酸是酒石酸，而在白酒裡也可以看
appearance similar to white sugar. Usually, bench trials are conducted where
到檸檬酸的使用。兩種酸都是晶體，並有類似白砂糖外觀。通常酒廠會進行試
differing amounts of these acids are added to juice or wine samples. These are
驗，把不同分量的酸添加到果汁或酒的樣本，它們隨後會被試味，以確定應該
then tasted to determine the concentration of acid to add. Some winemakers
添加的酸的濃度。一些釀酒師還會使用pH值和可滴定酸度（TA）的數值以幫助
will also use the pH and TA (titratable acidity) figures to help determine the right
制定合適的添加酸濃度。決定好添加酸的濃度後，酸晶體會被稱量和溶解在盡
concentration of acid to add. Once this amount is determined, the acid crystals
可能最少量的水（以防止把酒稀釋），然後混入需要酸化的一批果汁或酒。一
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are weighed, dissolved in as little water as possible (to prevent dilution of the
the changes in pH and acidity will have on the stability and longevity of these
wine), then mixed into the batch of juice or wine that needs to be acidified.
wines. Acidity itself is no guarantee for the longevity of wines, with some of
Usually, the earlier the acidification is carried out during the winemaking
the greatest, longest-lived Bordeaux of the 20th century coming from low
process (eg at the juice stage rather than the pre-bottling stage), the more
acid years. Nonetheless, global warming is a concern for grape growers and
integrated the acid will be in the wine.
winemakers everywhere, and there is no doubt that the way in which we adapt will influence both the taste as well as the styles of the wines we make.
Tartaric acid tends to be more on the back palate, giving a wine a longer finish and after taste. When too much is added, it can also make the front
般情況下，在釀酒過程中越早進行酸化（例如在果汁階段，而不是入瓶前階
and mid palate of a wine seem a bit light and thin. Citric acid on the other
段），酸度越能和酒協調融合。
hand can increase the front and mid palate weight of white wines, and can be an important component in the acid balance of a wine. It is often added in
酒石酸較常在品嘗的後段嘗到它對酒的影響，為葡萄酒帶來較長的回味和餘
very small amounts as a final adjustment before bottling. However, citric acid
韻。不過，當加入過多時它也可以令酒在品嘗的初段和中段顯得似乎有點輕和
is not usually used for red wines as it can be degraded by certain yeasts and
薄弱。另一方面，檸檬酸可以增加白酒前段和中段的重量，同時是構成葡萄
bacteria to form undesirable aromas or spoilage compounds, such as diacetyl
酒的酸度平衡的重要部分。它經常在入瓶前才被少量添加到酒裡作為最後的調
(buttery characters) and acetic acid (vinegary flavours). Because red wines
整。但是，檸檬酸很少常會被加入紅酒，因為它會同時降低某些酵母和細菌，
generally have a higher pH than white wines, the risk of the formation of these
繼而形成不想有的香味或變質的化合物，如二乙酰（牛油的特質）和乙酸（醋
compounds by microorganisms is much higher.
酸的口味）。由於紅酒一般比白酒具有較高的pH值，這些由微生物形成的化合 物形成的風險要高得多。
Of course, there are also times when a wine can be too acidic, particularly in cool years. In such cases, malolactic fermentation, which is the bacterial
當然，也有酒太酸的時候，特別是在涼爽年。在這種情況下，乳酸發酵可以幫
conversion of the sharp, green apple tasting malic acid to the softer, milky lactic
忙，它能把尖銳的，青蘋果味的蘋果酸柔轉化成乳白色的乳酸。然而，它也可
acid, can help. However, this can also result in undesired aroma and flavour
能導致酒會有不想有的香味和風味的變化。因此，酒廠也會使用另一種方法：
changes to the wine. An alternative therefore is the practice of deacidification,
脫酸─加入碳酸鈣或calcium carbonate malate。碳酸鈣對酒石酸產生化學
which is the addition of calcium carbonate or calcium carbonate-malate. The
作用， 而calcium carbonate malate 就對酒石酸和乳酸都起作用。在這兩種
former reacts with tartaric acid, and the latter with both malic and tartaric acid.
情況下，鹽會形成並沉積到容器的底部，從而消除了酸。
In both cases, salts are formed and deposit into the bottom of the vessel, thus removing the acids.
隨著全球暖化多年來變得越來越明顯，氣候對釀酒時的酸度影響的也日益顯 著。在某些地區如波爾多，pH值正隨著時間逐漸增加。pH值的上升對這些酒
With global warming becoming more and more evident over the years, the way
的味道已經起了明顯的變化：它們變得更厚、更深色，更能在年輕的時候適合
in which the climate has influenced acidity in winemaking has also become
飲用。不過，我對惑pH值和酸度的變化對這些葡萄酒的穩定性和壽命的影響存
more evident. In regions like Bordeaux for example, there has been a gradual
疑。酸度本身不能保證葡萄酒的壽命，20世紀裡一些最偉大，壽命最長的波爾
increase in pH values over time. The change in the taste of these wines has
多便是來自低酸度的年份。然而，全球變暖是一個世界各地的葡萄種植者和釀
been obvious, in that they have become richer and more deeply coloured, and
酒師都關注的課題。我們適應全球暖化的方式將毫無疑問影響我們釀造的葡萄
certainly more drinkable at a younger age. I wonder though what influence
酒的味道和風格。
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26/4/13 7:03 PM
Now Open
!
y a w t s e p p i ! h e f i e l h y T o j n e to
Hip Cellar Limited 5/F, Blk C, Sea View Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point Tel: (852) 2979 0108 / 8100 7866 info@hipcellar.com www.hipcellar.com
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May
The Society of Wine Educators (SWE) is organizing CSW and CSS examination in HK
國際葡萄酒教育家協會（SWE）將在本港舉行CSW及CSS認証試 The Society of Wine Educators (SWE) will hold 2 public certification examinations on 6th July, 2013 (Saturday) in Hong Kong. (1) CSW(Certified Specialist of Wine) (2) CSS(Certified Specialist of Spirits) 國際葡萄酒教育家協會（SWE）將於2013年7月6日在香港擧行2個公開的葡萄 酒資格認証試，分別為: 一、CSW（Certified Specialist of Wine－葡萄酒專家認証試） 二、CSS（Certified Specialist of Spirits－烈酒專家認証試）
B
oth certifications are internationally recognized and highly regarded in North American and Japan. The number of CSW and CSS holders in Hong Kong also keeps increasing. There is no prerequisite for signing up, but potential candidate is advised to have attained WSET L3 or equivalent. Both CSW and CSS are rigorous examinations. Candidates have to answer 100 multiplechoice questions within one (1) hour. Successful candidates are entitled to add the appropriate post-nominal to their professional signatures.
organization in the USA in 1974. The Society’s goal is to foster and promote the professional education and development of the individual in particular. There are more than 2000 members worldwide in 17 countries and regions. The Hong Kong Chapter was founded in 2009. Its current 92 members include wine educators, sommeliers, winery owners, wine-makers, writers, wine sales executives and enthusiasts from all walks of life in both Hong Kong and Macau. The Hong Kong Chapter holds regular wine tasting workshops and dinners for members and the public.
CSW and CSS are self-study educational programs. Candidates can study at home or online without need for classes at school. Candidates have full access to the Online Wine and Spirits Academy – a very user-friendly and comprehensive wine and spirits online study platform. You may easily study and do mock questions at your own pace.
The CSW & CSS examinations this July are administered by the Society’s Hong Kong Chapter. For registration please go to https:// societyofwineeducators.secure. force.com/Calendar. The local contact is Mr Houghton Lee at (852) 90180816 (htnlee.swehm@ yahoo.com). The US contact is Mr Ben Coffelt (bcoffelt@ societyofwineeducators.org). Registration deadline is 20th June. For more information about the Chapter please check t h i s F a c e b o o k s i t e : w w w. facebook.com/SocietyOfWine EducatorsHongKongChapter.
Other than hosting public examinations, this society also irregularly assigns local wine education institutes to run private examinations and tutorials for students who prefer to review the study materials at live classrooms. Please check with individual education institutes for details. S o c i e t y o f Wi n e E d u c a t o r s was founded as a non-profit
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兩個資格均在全世界尤其北美洲 和日本廣受承認，連本港也愈來 愈多人獲取這兩項資格。申請 CSW和CSS沒有先決條件，但最 好有WSET L3或同等程度以上。 試題相當嚴格，考生要在一小時
內回答１００條選擇題。合格後 可以在名片上印上CSW或CSS頭 銜。兩份考試將同時進行，所以 考生每次只能報考其中一項。 國際葡萄酒教育家協會資格試的 特色是可以靠考生自己在家中 和網上學習，不一定要到學校上 堂。這亦是針對美國地大人口分 散的特點。考生除了可以登錄 協會網站上的Online Wine and Spirits Academy，一個容易使 用和完備的葡萄酒和烈酒網上學 習平台，可以輕鬆地在網上溫習 考試內容和做模擬測驗。 協會除了獨自舉行CSW/CSS 公開考試，亦會不定期委任本 地的葡萄酒學校舉行非公開考 試兼導修課程(Tutorials)，以 滿足部分不想完全依靠自學並 想上學校的考生，詳情可留意 個別葡萄酒教育機構通告。 國際葡萄酒教育家協會（SWE） 於１９７４年在美國成立，目 的是建立一個讓葡萄酒教育者 交流和提升專業水平的非謀 利團體。現在全球會員2000多
人，分佈在１７個國家和地 區。香港分會則於２００９年 成立，現在會員92人，包括港 澳兩地的葡萄酒老師、侍酒 師、莊主、釀酒師、作家、 銷售行政及來自各行業之愛 好者等。香港分會定期舉行 各種葡萄酒工作坊和晚宴。 今次７月分的考試由國際 葡 萄 酒 教 育 家 協 會 香 港 分會（Society of Wine Educators Hong Kong C h a p t e r ） 籌 辦 。 報 名 請 上 本 會 總 會 網 址: societyofwineeducators. secure.force.com/Calendar。 如有問題可以聯絡香港分會的 李厚敦先生, (852) 90180816 ( 電郵: htnlee.swehm@yahoo. com)，或聯絡美國Mr Ben Coffelt(電郵: bcoffelt@ societyofwineeducators.org) 。截止報名日期為6月20日。 歡迎大家訪問以下Facebook 地址：www.facebook.com/ SocietyOfWineEducators HongKongChapter。
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Corner 2013 Pierre Hermé Paris is now in IFC
M
PIERRE HERMÉ PARIS 登陸IFC
acaron is always one the favourite sweeites all time. In May, Pierre Hermé Paris who master that is bringing different varieties to the new IFC outlet, That includes Arabesque, Crème Brûlée, Imagine, Infiniment Chocolat Porcelana, Infiniment Rose, Céleste and Mogador etc.
Macaron精緻繽紛的外型一向 是愛甜的女士至愛，精於製作 Macaron的Pierre Hermé Paris 將於五月把多款經典Macaron帶 來香港，多款經典款式將於IFC 香港分店有售，如Arabesque (杏桃開心果)、Cr è me Brulee (雲呢拿焦糖)、Imagine(抹茶 黑芝麻)、Infiniment Chocolat Porcelana(委內瑞拉白瓷黑朱古 力)、Infiniment Rose (玫瑰花 瓣)、Céleste (熱情果大黃草莓) 及Mogador (朱古力熱情果)等。
May
Bowers & Wilkins releasing the new Z2 Bowers & Wilkins推出全新 Z2
B
owers & Wilkins has released their latest design of a wireless speaker stand for iPhone. You can stream your music wirelessly with the touch of seamless outline. It is compatible with iPhone, iPod touch and iPod nano. It can also stream music from iPad; and Mac and PC running iTunes. Despite of the small footage of the Z2, it reproduces wonderful music for the compact
household environment in Hog Kong. B&W Bowers & Wilkins全新 設計的iPhone無線揚聲器底座 Z2出爐了，輕鬆方便的無線 串流功能以及時尚輕巧的外 型線條令人愛不惜手，除了對 接iPhone、iPod touch和iPod nano外，更可無線串流各種 型號的iPad以及運行iTunes的 Mac機及PC機。小巧機身已經 擁有圓潤而自然的音質，絕對 適合空間有限的香港家居。
Enquiry: B&W Group Asia Ltd // www.bowers-wilkins.com
Chinese cuisine matching with Malbec from Bodega Espeta 阿根廷Bodega Espeta Malbec與中菜配對
joined the an alternative mix and match with Chinese food with the Malbec of Bodega Estepa from Argentina, which brings it to the next level of culinary experience.
R
ed wine is always matched with cheese, steaks or foie gras, which seems like the only perfect matches. For the diversified taste of Chinese cuisine, matches even better with new world wines. We
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The Malbec of Bodega Estepa from Argentina shows special harmony when matching with Chinese cuisine. The 2005 vintage that we tasted is ready to drink with well integrated oak and plenty of fruit.
午膳品酒活動便揭開了阿根廷 Bodega Estepa Malbec葡萄酒 配中菜的驚喜。 Bodega Estepa Malbec擁有得 天獨厚的特性，與中式佳餚互 相交融時更會碰撞出令人驚喜 的和諧口感，絕對適合東方人 口味，一瓶2005年Estepa的配 食潛力更是不容忽視，橡木味 融入酒中，果香仍然豐盛。
當日配酒菜色: 紅酒配芝士、牛排、鵝肝…… 看似門當戶對，其實並非絕 對。對於變化多端的中菜，與 來自新世界紅酒，反而更加擦 出令人驚喜萬分的火花。用 葡萄酒來搭配中餐，是目前相 當流行的一種Mix & Match做 法。日前舉行的「酒出滋味」
粉絲蟹膏煲 薑蔥炸子雞 鐵板千椒鮑魚 西蘭花燒汁牛柳粒 火焰鐵板京蔥爆羊片
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2012
Bordeaux En Primeur 波爾多酒花速報 Text: Eddie Chui, Nicholas Siu
Like in the past few years, we flew to Bordeaux in April to join the En Primeur tasting. Although we had two great vintages in 2009 and 2010, we had a far less versitile 2011 vintage where quality depended a lot on the decisions of the oenologists and winemakers. How will 2012 fare? 一如過往數年，我們都於四月遠赴波爾多參加一年一度的波爾多酒花品試。經過2009，2010年兩個評價十分好的年份，2011 年的表現受天氣影響，沒有那麼出色，要看釀酒師的功力發揮如何。至於2012年又如何呢？
A Slow Starting Vintage
慢熱的一年
Bordeaux has her own attractiveness in part due to the variations in
波爾多不像新世界產區般，普遍較穩定，也選擇一些較有利葡萄生長的地區，
vintages that are mainly due to the weather. When comparing Old
因此氣候的變化較多，年復年的差異會較大，所以葡萄酒的年份差別也會比較
to New world wine regions, it is a bit of a trade-off. The Old world
大，這也是波爾多酒有趣的地方。2012 年開始時並不理想，因為春天回暖較
generally has better terroir, but the New world has more stable weather
遲緩，發芽、開花時間過遲，令整體質素有點參差，夏天來說也來得慢，直
conditions. 2012 was not that ideal from the beginning as the winter
到八月中帶來正常理想的酷熱天氣，幸好之後整體天氣保持嚴熱、乾燥，陽光
weather in spring slowed down the buds breaking and flowering, which
充裕。雖然有點遲，但大部份的葡萄都能成熟得不錯，可是收成屬於較少的年
is not good for grape growth. The summer also started slow, but
份。總括來說，跟2011 年有些許差別，當然比不上2009 及2010 年般處處有
fortunately it stayed hot, dry, and sunny. That halted the vine growth
喜，經典偉大的年份，但當中乾白的表現不俗，甜白則屬於較參差的一年，而
and the fruits started to ripen well, but the resulting yield was small.
紅葡萄酒方面，Merlot 表現相對較優異，較遲成熟的Cabernet 表現受天氣影 響，要看地區及個別酒莊的努力，整體收成也比前幾年少很多，可以說並不是
Though 2012 performed better compared to the 2011 vintage, it was
風調雨順的一年，還看各個酒莊的實力，尤其是在七、八月，對那些開花、結
definitely not a glorious vintage like 2009 and 2010. The dry whites are
果、轉色不平衡的葡萄藤是否能大膽地去收剪，對收成時葡萄的質素是很大關
doing well although it is rather difficult for the sweet ones. For reds,
鍵。價格上，不少酒莊很早便有第一批的酒花價格出爐，看上去還是很有吸引
Merlots performed better than the late ripening Cabernets because
力，大家可留意往後的發展。
of the weather, although success depended on the men behind the château. With such a lower yield, it wasn’t really a successful vintage
白葡萄酒
and the courage to do some important decisions like green harvesting
乾白葡萄酒方面， Pessac-Léognan 及 Graves 的有些莊園表現不錯，她們
during July and August would have severely improved the quality during
普遍比去年收成遲了兩個星期，收成的果實健康良好，差不多不用篩選。收
the harvest. At this moment in time, a few prices have already been
成前良好的日照及日夜溫差使酸度及香氣發展良好，擁有優秀 terroir 的莊園
released and they sound pretty attractive, so let us hope they stay that
如Château Haut-Brion、Château Smith Haut Lafitte及Château Pape-
way.
Clement等，Sauvignon Blanc的糖份比2011年高，但仍有充足的酸度，唯
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White Wines: For white dry wines, Pessac-Léognan and Graves had some outstanding châteaux; they harvested 2 weeks later than last year and the grapes are perfect and required no sorting. Before harvest the sufficient sunshine and diurnal difference preserved good acidity and aroma. Outstanding ones include Haut-Brion, Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Pape-Clement, etc. The sugar level of Sauvignon Blanc was higher than in 2011 and helped preserve acidity, but the weather affected the vine growth resulting in a lower yield. Particular care had to be taken around harvesting time, as picking the grapes too slow would lower the acidity, making the white wines dry and flat. For botrytis wine, a dry summer and autumn showers made this vintage
一可惜的是，慢熱的天氣影響發芽開花，收成量較少。要注意的是，因為氣溫
complicated. With a dry July and August, the limestone in the soil could
較正常為高，葡萄採收的時機變得很重要，太遲的話，葡萄酸度會降得很快，
preserve more moisture. But after the 22nd of September when the
低酸度葡萄釀成的乾白葡萄酒會變得很沒趣。
harvest of dry whites finished, no botrytis formed until late September in the Barsac region. Harvest in Barsac starts in early October, and
貴腐葡萄酒方面，乾旱的夏天加上秋天的雨粉，使情況較為複雜。乾旱
Sauternes starts later. The rain at the end of October forced the harvest
的七、 八月，以 石炭岩土 為主的葡萄 園能保存 較多水份 。在 9 月 22 日，
to stop and resulted in lower yield, but Barsac estates with exceptional
乾白葡萄收成完畢後，貴腐菌仍未見踪影，要到 9 月尾，在石炭岩土豐富
terroir made good wine like Château Climens and Château Coutet; for
的 Barsac 區才開始形成及散開， Barsac 也能早於 10 月第一個星期開始收
Sauternes, Château Doisy-Daëne and Château Doisy-Védrines weren’t
成， Sauternes 則較遲，而因為 10 月尾的降雨，採收較早停止，收成較
bad, and traditional big estates like Château d’Yquem and Château
少。 Barsac 那些石炭岩土為主的優秀 terroir 莊園，可以釀出不錯的貴腐甜
Rieussec revealed that they weren’t going to make wine this year. Another
酒，例如 Château Climens 及 Château Coutet ；在 Sauternes ， Château
favorite of ours, Château Fargues, may not make wine because the
Doisy-Daëne 及 Château Doisy-Védrines 是我們覺得不錯的，而傳統名莊
harvest yielded just one third of the amount it normally does.
Château d’Yquem、Château Rieussec表示今年不會釀造甜酒，而筆者喜愛 的Château Fargues也表示收成只有三分一，或不會推出2012年的酒釀。
Left Bank Reds Cabernet varied in quality and generally wasn’t bad compared to 2011.
左岸紅葡萄酒
Firstly, if the châteaux could decisively complete green pruning during
以Cabernet為主的左岸紅葡萄酒表現參差，但表現也不會比2011年差。之前
August, the harvest would be outstanding; if not, the result wouldn’t
提過，有兩方面很關鍵，由於不平衡的開花結果，如果酒莊能果斷在七、八月
be that good even if you do aggressive sorting during harvest, as
時把認為不會成熟的果實剪掉，到收成時葡萄的質素會很出色；相反如果沒有
the immature grapes aren’t often sorted out, affecting the quality. In
作出適當行動的話，等到收成時才去靠人手篩選的話，效果不會理想，因為那
different areas, the cabernet was affected by the rain during the harvest
時沒可能把那些不夠成熟的果實去掉的，所以釀酒師的決定很關鍵。另外收成
in late October. It was lucky that the summer was sunny and hot, so
的時機，由於Cabernet的收成時間一向較遲，通常去到10月後，而今年去到
less herbaceous characters like green pepper and stalk would show.
收成後期有地區性的降雨，在不同地區的雨量不同，對Cabernet的質素也有 不同的影響。幸好在夏季有充足的陽光、溫度，不會使酒出現太多如青椒或枝
Right Bank Reds
梗的草本味道。八月時在葡萄園的工作絕對是關鍵。因為釀酒師的努力，整體
The Merlot based reds were very nice, especially those from Pomerol,
表現算是中規中舉，我們覺得比2011年好一點。
which are juicy and fruit driven. Those from St. Émilion varied depending on the terroir and soil. The work in the vineyards during last August was
右岸紅葡萄酒
very important just like it was in the left bank. But since Merlot ripens
以Merlot為主幹的表現很不錯，Pomerol的酒尤其出色，果香澎湃，酒體豐厚
earlier it is less susceptible to rain in October compared to Cabernets.
多汁。而St. Émilion則以酒莊的土釀、terroir作為關鍵，跟左岸一樣，夏天在
The winemakers and enologists worked hard to make the best wine,
葡萄園的修剪工作影響整年的成敗，而由於Merlot屬於較早收成的葡萄，十月
and these Merlot should become exceptional wines after some aging.
中後的降雨影響相對較細，而嚴熱乾燥的夏天使較遲成長的果實仍能成熟得很 理想。當然釀酒師下的工夫也少不得，很期待這些優秀的Merlot過多幾年後會
Year of Merlot
變成怎樣的美酒。
Overall this was not a great year, and there wasn’t even good wine from everywhere. Still, it was better than the 2011 vintage where
Merlot之年
the quality in both depends on the terroir and the winemakers.
總括來說，這不是什麼偉大的年份，不是每一處都有好酒，但不比 2011 年
Dry whites like Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon excelled like the
差，酒莊的terroir主宰她的表現，而釀酒師在夏天的努力也沒有白費。乾白酒
Merlot based reds. Cabernets varied and might have had some
的Sauvignon Blanc及Sémillon；紅葡萄酒Merlot表現最為理想。Cabernet方
herbaceous character due to the early harvest, but it was hardly
面較參差，由於不能再延遲收成，有些葡萄未能除去草青味，幸好不算太嚴
noticeable because of progression in winemaking and extra care.
重，對最終的味道響不會太大，加上現在的釀酒技術，應該不難克服。我們會
We will talk more on the 2012 Bordeaux in the upcoming issue.
繼續詳談2012年的波爾多發展及最新消息。
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Our Quick Recommendations for Reds : 我們的紅葡萄酒推薦： Pessac-Léognan: Château Haut-Bailly, Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, Château La Louvière, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Haut-Médoc: Château Cantemerle, Château Clarke Margaux: Château Palmer, Château Cantenac Brown, Château Lascombes, Château Prieuré-Lichine St. Julien: Château Branaire Ducru, Château Leoville Barton, Château Saint Pierre, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Pauillac: Château Pichon Lalande, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lynch Bages, Château Grand Puy Ducasse St. Estephe: Château Ormes de Pez﹐ Château Phelan Segur Médoc: Château La Tour de By Pomerol: Château Le Pin, Château Petit Village, Château La Pointe, Château la Consteillante, Château Beauregard St. Émilion: Château Canon, Château Angélus, Château Troplong Mondot, Château Cheval Blanc Special Thanks: UGCB www.ugcb.net
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29 MAY 2013 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HONG KONG
Discover Bordeaux’s finest ready-to-drink vintages An exclusive selection of more than 130 premium wines
WEDNESDAY, 29 MAY 2013 GRAND TASTING (Open To Public) 5:00 - 9:00pm Admission: HK$ 750 regular/ HK$ 600 early bird TRADE TASTING (Registration Required) 2:00 - 5:00pm For ticketing and more information, visit www.GreatWinesBordeaux.com
29 MAY 2013
For general enquiries, please contact enquiry@greatwinesbordeaux.com
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL HONG KONG
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Robert Mondavi Winery Immortal Vineyard 永垂不朽的莊園
text : Eddie Chui
We were pleased to meet Ms. Genevieve Janssens from Robert Mondavi Winery during a special lunch at Unkai Japanese restaurant in Sheraton arranged by Jebsen Fine Wines. She showed us the lastest Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009 vintage alongside some back vintages. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of Californian winemaker Robert Mondavi, who died in 2008, aged 94. The winery he established a mere 50 years ago is today easily the most representative and iconic of the Napa Valley. Energetic and bold in exploring the world of winemaking, Mr. Mondavi was always keen to mentor young talent and had many like-minded advocates, including Ms Genevieve Janssens, the current director of winemaking.
Robert Mondavi and his wife, Margrit Mondavi
A native of France, Ms Janssens chose to work in a Californian winery instead, explaining, “I grew up in France and studied wine at the University of Bordeaux. But at that time, the role of a woman was more humble in the wine world, so I just went back to work for my family. When I met Mr. Mondavi, I was attracted by his philosophy in winemaking, and made up my mind to explore California.” In 1989, she joined Opus One, and in 1997, she resumed her connection with Mr. Mondavi by joining the winery as the director of winemaking. She followed Mondavi’s lead and took on the project at To Kalon, implementing new systems according to the terroir, producing better grapes and eventually, superior wines. Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009 The To Kalon vineyard is referred to as a “First Growth” vineyard in Napa Valley and it gave rise to 80% of the grapes used in the newly-released 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Genevieve plans for future Reserves to be made solely with grapes from To Kalon, thus creating a true First Growth Napa wine. The style of Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is always classic and elegant. The 2009 has brilliant fruit, with a touch of coffee and oak character. The finish is very long and balanced and, although still very young, it is highly approachable given two hours to breathe. We recently had lunch with Genevieve and enjoyed tasting back- vintages of 2000, 1999 and 1984. She explained that the method of winemaking was different for each of the vintages, but, coming from the same terroir, we could also sense their similarities. I favoured the 1999 vintage, as a very complete and mature wine that is now reaching its peak. The tasting lunch was greatly enhanced thanks to the distributor of Hong Kong, Macao and Greater China, Jebsen Fine Wines, arranging an unusual Japanese Teppanyaki menu which matched superbly with these very elegant wines. 早前捷成洋酒在喜來登酒店的雲海日本料理，安排了我們跟Robert Mondavi酒莊的Genevieve Janssens共享一頓 精彩的午餐，並為我們介紹最新的2009年Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve酒款，及其他舊年份的酒釀。
Genevieve Janssens, director of winemaking
今年剛好是加州著名酒匠Robert Mondavi一百歲的生忌。他創立的Robert Mondavi酒莊雖然只有不多於50年的歷 史，但在Napa卻有著代表性的地位。最值得欣賞的必定是他的魄力，而且對栽培後輩亦不遺餘力，現任酒莊釀酒 總監Genevieve Janssens也是他一手培養出來的。 身為法國人的Genevieve為何從盛產酒釀的家鄉，千里迢迢來到美國酒莊來釀酒，她這樣說道：「我在法國長 大，更加在波爾多大學接受釀酒訓練，但那時在法國酒界，女性地位不高，我畢業後主要在家族的酒莊工作，但 遇上Mondavi先生後，我被他對葡萄酒的理念所吸引，便希望到加州發展。」於是她先於1989加入Opus One，隨 後於1997年正式加入Robert Mondavi酒莊，成為釀酒總監。一直以來都承襲Mondavi先生的釀酒方向，在酒莊最 重要的To Kalon葡萄園不斷研發，根據土壤、氣候，打造更好的系統，種出最好的葡萄。
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009
Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009 剛推出的2009年Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve，當中有高達80%的葡萄便是來自被譽為Napa「First Growth」 的To Kalon葡萄園的。Genevieve表示將來的Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve更會使用100%的To Kalon葡萄釀造， 使其成為完整的First Growth酒釀。Robert Mondavi的Caberbet Sauvignon Reserve一向都是Napa的典範，保 持著優雅的風格、鮮明的果香、帶咖啡及橡木桶的香氣，收結悠長。雖然2009年的酒現在仍然非常年輕， 但並不遙不可及，只要醒酒2小時後即變得十分誘人。在跟Genevieve的午宴上，我們還品嚐了其他舊年份的 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve，包括2000、1999及1984，雖然釀造的方式有別，但仍能感受到那一脈相承的風 格，當中最愛的是1999年，演化得十分完美、優雅，難怪作為香港、澳門名中國大陸總代理的捷成洋酒安排了味 道較輕柔的日本鐵板燒來配此酒，盡顯她的秀麗。
Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Tel: 2926 2269 (Marco Vazquez) //ww 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui) // Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com
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Le French May
Asian Dishes 法國五月美食節 — 勃艮第的精采！ Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong // Covershot: Ato
Ever since the festival began 20 years ago, Le French May was always colourful. Together with the Consulate General of France and Alliance Francaise, the Le French May Arts Festival has been held since 1993, holding a number of music, dance, arts performances, and movie showings. However, one of the most exciting programs to look forward to is of course, the brilliant Le French GourMay festival. This is the fifth year Le French GourMay will be held in Hong Kong and the focus this time around will be on the famous wine region of Burgundy, which includes five of the most famous wine regions in the world: Chablis, the Grand Auxerrois, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, and the Mâconnais. Each of these sub-regions of Burgundy has their own distinct characteristics such as being particularly elegant, or subtle, or balanced. As in the past, throughout the whole month of May, participating fine-dining restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau will work with a number of star chefs, sommeliers, and French wineries to prepare a series of special menus for the public to taste. The sommeliers will work especially hard to accompany the delicious food with some exciting Burgundy wines. Aside from these fine-dining establishments, over 30 local French and Chinese restaurants will also participate in the festival by launching special menus of their own. A series of retail stores will also launch special Burgundian cuisine in order to further promote the food and wine of the region, and a series of educational institutes will also organize special seminars. For the second consecutive year, Le French GourMay will partner with our magazine to do an extensive panel tasting; last year we focused on Bordeaux, and year will be Burgundy. Do not miss it!
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由20年前開始，每年五月總是多姿多采。由法國領事館與法國文化協會合辦的法國五月藝術節自 1993 年以來一 直舉辦多項藝術活動，集視覺藝術、歌劇、古典及當代音樂、舞蹈、綜合藝術表演和電影等。當中最令人興奮期 待的節目之一，當然是精采絕倫的法國五月美食節。 今年已是法國五月美食節舉辦的第五屆，每一年的法國五月美食節都會重點介紹法國其中一個產酒區的酒釀，今 年的焦點便落在著名的產酒區勃艮第身上。作為舉世知名的法國葡萄酒產地，勃艮第包括了其中五個最著名的酒 區： Chablis 、 the Grand Auxerrois 、 Côte de Nuits 、 Côte de Beaune 、 Côte Chalonnaise 和 Mâconnais ， 著重地區風土 terroir 的勃艮第酒釀每一款都擁有獨特而精緻的特質，優雅微妙而平衡。一如以往，整個五月多間 香港與澳門的高級餐廳及米芝蓮餐廳都會聯同多位星級大廚、品酒師和法國酒莊，特別精心炮製一系列特色菜單 以攜手打造滋味的五月，加上專業品酒師為美味菜餚配上的一系列勃艮第美酒，令老饕們享盡美酒佳餚帶來的美 味衝擊。 五月份的香港與澳門除了頂級餐廳推出的勃艮第精緻餐單外，超過 30 間優閒餐廳及中菜食府都一起參與其中，為 法國五月美食節推出特別美食。一系列的零售商戶亦會特別推出勃艮第佳餚；而為了進一步推廣法國美食與勃艮 第美酒，一系列教育機構也將舉辦專門之研討會。已經連續第二年成為法國五月美食節合作伙伴的《釀‧生活》 今期除了為大家搜羅法國五月美食節的餐廳酒吧外，亦會在品酒會中介紹來自勃艮第的美酒佳釀，萬勿錯過！ More Information: www.frenchmay.com/gourmay
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Zachary Yu The Wine Guy Zachary loves food culture, especially any part pertaining to wines, beers, or other spirits. He is an expert at pairing, and
Marco Tsang - Chinese Executive Chef 曾超烈師傅 - 中菜廳行政總廚
A master with over 40 years of cooking experience, he is committed to using the top ingredients from all over the world in traditional Cantonese cooking, integrating them into an innovative modern cuisine.
always ensures an exciting match. Zac 熱愛飲食文化，除了對葡萄酒有深厚認 識外，對葡萄酒或其他酒類配對各式食物方 面尤其專門，且甚有心得。
曾超烈師傅擁有40多年入廚經驗，致力以 來自世界各地的頂尖食材以傳統粵菜方式烹 調，做出融合創新現代的廣東美饌。
Two-star Michelin restaurant Ming Court in the Langham Place Hotel has
作為米芝蓮二星餐廳，位於旺角朗豪酒店的中菜廳明閣向來好評如潮，而今年
already won plaudits and rave reviews from critics everywhere. For the first
度更首次參與法國五月美食節，由明閣新任行政總廚曾超烈師傅聯同一向甚有
time ever they are working with Le French GourMay, and their new Executive
配酒心得的朗豪酒店The Wine Guy Zachary Yu一起，以各款來自勃艮第的美
Chef is sure to provide a fantastic dining experience with Zachary Yu, The
酒配上悉心設計的配酒菜單，將每一款酒的香氣與味道，與每一款食材的特性
Wine Guy, to carefully partner Burgundy wines with Chinese food. This
與質感融合，以傳統廣東粵菜的烹調手法做出完美的配搭。
involves fully examining the aroma, the taste, and the unique characteristics and texture of a wine to fuse with traditional Cantonese cooking; for sure it
第一道菜金箔松露千層豆腐‧鵝肝醬乳豬件作為頭盤，曾師傅使用口感滑溜的
isn’t an easy to task to make the perfect pairing.
豆腐切片，中間夾著加入醬油、浙醋及花雕的自製的松露醬，帶有松露獨有香 氣之餘又不失中式元素。配上Pierre André，Tastevine, Macon-Village 2009
The first dish features two dishes: a gold leaf and truffle tofu, and a foie gras
這款比較清新富果味的白酒，沒有受過木桶的影響，以清新簡單的果香帶出松
and suckling pig starter to create an appetizer that masters the texture of
露的味道。而鵝肝醬乳豬件則同時包含中法兩種風格鮮明的食材，而鵝肝醬的
the ingredients, and combines it with a unique sauce of soy sauce, vinegar,
綿滑撞正乳豬皮的香脆口感，呈現出法國風味之餘亦突顯出這道菜的肉香，配
truffles, and Chinese yellow wine. Accompanied by Pierre André ‘Tastevine’
搭天衣無縫。
Macon-Village 2009, this rich and fruity white wine hasn’t had the impact of oak, so it stays fresh and can pair with the truffles. The combination of
飲過第一款較為清新開胃的酒款後，接下來的兩道菜式頭抽百花釀帶子
foie gras and suckling pig features two distinctive Sino-French ingredients,
及上湯焗龍蝦伴棋子麵則會配上一款較有辛辣木香的 Robert Comte ， La
each with their own texture. With one soft and one crispy, there is all the
Truffiére，Meursault V.V. 2009。Zachary表示這款酒的特性特別適合配搭海
flavour of the French dish, and all the aromas of the crackling; it’s a flawless
鮮，尤其是帶子。而是次菜單中最特別的一道菜可算是膶腸糯米釀雞翼，曾
combination.
師傅以適合份量的膶腸加入糯米釀入雞翼中，而膶腸作為中式味道濃郁的食
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Foie Gras with Suckling Pig and Tofu with Gold Leaf paired with Pierre André, Tastevine, Macon-Village 2009 金箔松露千層豆腐‧鵝肝醬乳豬件配Pierre André, Tastevine, Macon-Village 2009
Stuffed Baked Lobster served with Robert Comte, La Truffiére, Meursault V.V. 2009 頭抽百花釀帶子及上湯焗龍蝦伴棋子麵配Robert Comte, La Truffiére, Meursault V.V. 2009
For the next dish of shrimp with scallops and baked lobster, Zachary
材，不但能夠提升菜式整體的濃香，更令配搭此款菜式的紅酒款Hubert Moret
paired the fragrant dish with a more full-bodied white wine that has the
Gevrey-Chambertin 2008味道非常合拍，而且更突出。
spice and vanilla notes of oak. Robert Comte’s La Truffière Meursault VV 2009. The creamy citrusy notes really match this type of seafood. The second dish has preserved liver sausage with rice and chicken, is rich and aromatic; he chose a Pinot Noir—Hubert Moret GevreyChambertin 2008, which was very balanced and even enhanced the flavour of the dish.
Ming Court 明閣 Portal – Work & Play Address 地址：Level 6, Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong
九龍旺角上海街555號香港旺角朗豪酒店6樓
Tel 電話： 3552 3300 Website 網址：Hongkong.langhampalcehotels.com
Portal – Work & Play In Portal – Work & Play, Zachary will also introduce a Burgundy cheese plate with a wine pairing, including Bouton de Culotte goat’s milk cheese, Chambertin soft cheese, and Charollais goat cheese. He even has tips for those afraid of the particularly stinky cheeses; simply add some acacia honey to the cheese, which will not only reduce the smell, but also give more balance to the acidity and flavour, revealing more vanilla and green pepper aromas. 除明閣外，Portal – Work & Play亦會推出由Zachary親自配酒的勃艮第芝士拼 盤，包括Bouton de Culotte羊奶芝士、Chambertin軟芝士及Charollais羊奶芝 士。Zachary更提供了一個小貼士，怕吃羊奶芝士那股騷味的人只要沾一點拼 盤附有的淡味白花蜜糖便可以減低其騷味，而且更會令芝士本身的酸味和青味 更加平衡，呈現出芝士原本的青胡椒、香草等香氣。
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Chef Pierre Gagnaire
Pierre is located on the top floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, which features a beautiful interior and a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island. It also accompanies this beautiful view with superb food, and as the “Father of modern French cuisine”, or “Nouvelle Cuisine”, the way Pierre Gagnaire produces food is different from other chefs. Every ingredient that falls into his hand becomes art, telling simple but picturesque stories to highlight individual ingredients and cooking experiences. Updating the ingredients quarterly to ensure fresh ideas and a new menu, seasonal cuisine features strongly at the restaurant, and as a world-renowned Michelin-star chef, Pierre Gagnaire has carefully designed a menu for Le French GourMay using ingredients specifically imported from Burgundy, and of course paired with Burgundian wines. Pierre 位於香港文華東方酒店頂樓，餐廳裝潢氣派時尚並重，兼且坐擁無敵港島夜景。然而華麗的外表 下，Pierre 的餐廳的食物水準亦是一流的。由被譽為「現代法國菜之父」的法國名廚Pierre Gagnaire 創立，作 為法國新料理主義(Nouvelle Cuisine)的表表者，他對食材所使用的創新手法有別於其他法國名廚大師，每一種 食材落在Pierre手上都能夠變得充滿藝術氣息，賣相簡約精緻如畫般美麗，務求令菜式能夠突顯傳統食材和烹飪 手法之中從未有過的新體驗。 每季也會按時令食材的當造情況更新餐牌，以提供最新鮮和時令的美食予食客。作為全球知名的法國米芝蓮三星 絕大廚，Pierre Gagnaire 亦特地為法國五月美食節精心設計了一系列試菜餐單，分別有四道菜和七道菜兩款， 而當中採用的多款法國食材更是由勃艮第直接新鮮進口，讓食客能夠嘗到來自勃艮第的新鮮原味。
Pierre Address 地址：25/F Mandarin Oriental HK, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong 中環干諾道中5號香港文華東方酒店25樓
Tel 電話： 2825 4001 Website 網址： www.mandarinoriental.com
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Chef Olivier Elzer
In addition to Pierre Gagnaire, another famous three-star Michelin chef in Hong Kong is Joël Robuchon, who in 2006 opened up his eponymous restaurant in Hong Kong. For two consecutive years in the 2012 and 2013 Michelin Guide – Hong Kong and Macau, it has won a three star-reputation. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is modern and sleek, with strong interior designs featuring black wooden tableware, although the general feel is quite reminiscent of the fashion world, with red long velvet carpets. Guests can also dine alfresco while savouring the innovative but classic French food in a comfortable and relaxed manner. For Le French GourMay, Joël Robuchon has designed a special selection of food and wine to pair, with the exquisite cuisine done by Chef Olivier Elzer. Dishes include a savoury mille-feuille made of tomato coulis, crab meat, avocado, and green apple, and a slow-cooked duck breat dish with foie gras and seasonal fruit (called Le Canard en duo du foie gras et escorté de fruits de saison). There will also be free-range quail and foie gras served with mashed potatoes and truffles - La Caille au foie gras caramélisé, pomme purée truffée. LE CRABE en mille-feuille de tomate, coulis verjuté
著名的法國三大名廚除了Pierre Gagnaire外，還有世界知名的米芝蓮三星級大廚Joël Robuchon， 名下的餐廳於2006 年在香港開業，在2012 年至2013 年連續兩年榮獲《米芝蓮指南—香港澳門》的三 星級名譽。L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon的的設計裝潢富有濃重的現代氣息，黑皮木桌椅配上紅絲絨 坐墊更令整體感覺更加時尚而型格。而客人亦可於餐廳的露天茶座一邊品嘗其以創新烹調方式的經典法 國菜餚，舒適悠閒。 在法國五月美食節期間，L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon亦精心設計了一系列精選佳餚美酒配搭菜單，由 主廚Olivier Elzer為客人呈上精緻美味的法國美食。部份菜式包括以蟹肉、蕃茄、牛油果和青蘋果所製 成的LE CRABE en mille-feuille de tomate, coulis verjuté；以慢煮鴨胸及鵝肝加入時令鮮果而成的 LE CANARD en duo de foie gras et escorté de fruits de saisons；以及由自由放養的鵪𪂹及鵝肝 佐以薯茸同吃的LA CAILLE au foie gras caramélisé, pomme purée truffée。
LA CAILLE au foie gras caramélisé, pomme purée truffée
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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Address 地址：Shop 401, 4/F The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環置地廣場4 樓401 號舖 Tel 電話： 2166 9000 Website 網址： www.robuchon.hk
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Executive Chef Philippe Duc
Of the previously three famous French chefs who have opened up restaurants in Hong Kong, we’ve introduced two of course, and only Alain Ducasse’s Spoon remains. Spoon is a two-star Michelin restaurant located in the InterContinental Hong Kong, and along this prime spot lays the beautiful Victoria Harbour of Hong Kong, which is revealed by tall windowpanes along the waterfront. This décor is simple but unique, and the understated elegance is quaint and neat like a silver tablespoon. The Executive Chef Philippe Duc will design a six-course special menu for Le French GourMay, featuring such classic delicacies like French Chicken with Black Truffles and Foie Gras, Paris Brest, Burgundy Snails, Crayfish with Puligny-Montrachet Sabayon, Grilled Beef Tenderloin, Wild Strawberry and French Marc de Bourgogne Brandy Cake. The sommelier Mathieu Ginglardi will also personally select Burgundy wine to accompany the meal. 前文所提及的法國三大名廚在香港開設的餐廳我們已經介紹過兩間了，那當然不少得由米芝蓮三星級 大廚 Alain Ducasse 開設的 Spoon 。擁有米芝蓮二星的 Spoon 位於香港州際酒店，同樣處於優越的地 理位置，臨海的偌大玻璃窗對正美麗的維多利亞港景色，餐廳裝潢簡潔而獨特，線條利落的室內環 境，配上天花上排列整齊的一隻隻銀色小匙，相當特別。 為了慶祝法國五月美食節， Spoon 的行政總廚 Philippe Duc 將會設計一份六道菜特叫餐單，菜式包括
Bresse法國雞肉配黑松露菌及鵝肝、勃艮第田螺、小龍蝦配Puligny Montrechet沙巴翁、香煎牛柳、 野生草莓及法國Marc de Bourgogne白蘭地蛋糕等；品酒師Mathieu Ginglardi亦會親自挑選勃艮第佳 釀作配菜。
Spoon - By Alain Ducasse Address 地址：InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon 九龍尖沙咀梳士巴利道18 號 香港洲際酒店 Tel 電話： 2313 2256 Website 網址： www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
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Chef Guillaume Galliot
In addition to the restaurants of the three French Michelin-starred chefs in Hong Kong, the City of Dreams in Macau also has a Michelin-starred restaurant—The Tasting Room. With a magnificently grandiose interior, the detail even extends to the opulent silverware. Its an extravagant dining area and truly an imperial kitchen. Chef Guillaume Galliot is convinced that natural food is the soul of a dish, and the price of an ingredient means little to him; he only wants the best in order to find the essence of taste in his food. It is artistry he seeks, and for Le French GourMay, he will be serving the greatest wines of Burgundy, both red and white. Expect names such as Domanie de la Vougeraie, Ramonet, Bruno Clair, Robert Groffier, and even the Grand Cru wines of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, which aren’t to be missed! 除了香港的三大法國名廚法國餐廳外，澳門的新濠天地皇冠度假酒店亦有一間 米芝蓮星級食府—御膳房。富麗堂皇的裝潢、精緻高級的食具、貴氣非凡的用 餐區…這裡就是名符其實的御膳房。 主廚 Guillaume Galliot 深信食物的天然真味是菜餚的靈魂、只有融薈食 材的每一個細節的味道，才能夠烹調出味覺藝術的精髓。於法國五月美食 節期間，御膳房除了供應一系列來自勃艮第的紅白酒款外，亦會舉行品酒 會讓客人品嘗更多的勃艮第美酒。葡萄酒選擇種類包括有 Domaine de la
Vougeraie、Ramonet、Bruno Clair、Robert Groffier，甚至是Domaine de la Romanee Conti的名莊佳釀，實在不容錯過！
The Tasting Room 御膳房 Address 地址：Level 3, Crown Towers Hotel, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo Cotai, Macau 澳門路氹連貫公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒店皇冠度假酒店3樓 Tel 電話： (853)8868 6681 Website 網址： www.cityofdreamsmacau.com
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Gastronomy
Amber Address 地址： 7/F The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環皇后大道中15號香港置地文華東方酒店7樓
Tel 電話： 2132 0066
Capricet Address 地址： 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Hong Kong 香港中環金融街8 號 香港四季酒店六樓
Tel 電話： 3196 8860
Restaurant Petrus 珀翠餐廳
Address 地址： Level 56, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacific Place, Sypreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong
Located in Hong Kong, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s Amber is one of the city’s most famous French restaurants, having attained two Michelin-stars. For Le French GourMay they will have a menu featuring the triple A lamb by Greffeuille from Aveyron in a five course meal. 位於香港置地文華東方酒店的Amber 是城中著名的法國餐廳，享譽米芝蓮二星的Amber 為慶祝法國五月 美食節，將選用Aveyron 區Greffeuille 出產的AAA 級羊，配合傳統的法國烹調手幕炮製五道菜的法式春日 羊宴。
Few restaurants in Hong Kong are as classic as Caprice, which is located on the sixth floor of the Four Seasons. Having attained a 3-star Michelin rating for the third year running, the team led by Chef Vincent Thirery will be participating once again in Le French GourMay for a series of fine Burgundian cuisine. 要數城中法國餐廳的經典又怎少得位於四季酒店 6 樓的 Caprice 。由在餐飲業界舉足輕重的法籍大廚
Vincent Thierry帶領、榮獲米芝蓮三星的星級團隊將會為法國五月美食節帶來勃艮第的一系列精緻美食。
Located in the Island Shangri-La Hotel, Restaurant Petrus is gorgeous and stylish, with elegant drapery and oil paintings that adorn the walls lit with crystal lamps. It feels like a European court, and customers can enjoy French elegance while having an unrivaled view of the Victoria Harbour.
香港中區法院道太古廣場港島香格里拉大酒店56樓
位於港島香格里拉大酒店的珀翠餐廳貫徹其華麗風格，在高雅的帳幔與油畫水晶燈所裝潢而成的歐洲宮廷
Tel 電話： 2820 8590
環境之中，加上面對著無敵維港景致，是享用法國菜的典雅之選。
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Robuchon au Dôme 天巢法國餐廳
Address 地址： 43/F, Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau
For five consecutive years Robuchon au Dôme has been awarded three Michelin stars. Located on the 43rd floor of the Grand Lisboa Hotel, there will be a special tailor made meal for Le French GourMay 2013, and visitors can enjoy the beauty of Macau afterwards!
澳門葡京路新葡京酒店43樓
Tel 電話： (853)8803 7878
Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant 金紫荊粵菜廳
連續五年榮獲《米芝蓮指南—香港澳門》三星絕別的高級食府，天巢法國餐廳位於澳門新葡京酒店43樓， 居高臨下，享用世界各地美酒佳餚之餘，同時飽覽澳門美景。
Located in the heart of SOHO, Tate Dining Room & Bar is not a traditional French restaurant. Although classical French techniques are used, the ingredients and flavours are often Japanese
Address 地址： Expo Galleria, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔博覽道1號香港會議展覽中心博覽商場
inspired, bringing a fusion of these two wonderful aesthetics.
Tel 電話： 2582 7728
式食材之中，以不同文化的靈感、來自日本人對四季時令的觸覺，帶出一系列的法日fusion菜式。
位於中環蘇豪區的Tate Dining Room & Bar並非傳統法國菜館，廚師們將傳統法國烹調技術融入日本菜
Fine Dining
Agnès b. le pain grillé Address 地址： Shop 3093, Podium Level 3, ifc mall, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環國際金融中心商場3層3093店 Tel 電話：3717 2848
15/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay
Agnès b. has always insisted on the pursuit of the French lifestyle and the quality of the diet is always an important element of implementing the French life. Agnès b. le pain grille has three branches, each with a laid-back and relaxed atmosphere. Le French GourMay will feature seasonal dishes with a French twist.
香港銅鑼灣開平道1號Cubus 15樓 Tel 電話：2577 2718
Agnès b. 一直堅持對法式生活品味的追求，而高質素的飲食更是貫徹法式生活的重要元素。Agnès b. le
Shop UG-33, Festival Walk, Kowloon Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong
式，輕鬆品嘗法式風味。
pain grillé三間分店彌漫著法國悠閑的輕鬆氛圍， 法國五月美食節期間更會推出以春季食材為主的時令菜
香港九龍塘又一城UG-33店 Tel 電話：2265 7680
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Amuse Bouche restaurant + wine bar Address 地址： 22/F The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔軒尼斯道256號The Hennessy 22樓
Amuse Bouche restaurant + wine bar will offer a series of discounts and promotions during Le French GourMay related to Burgundy wine, aiming to excite all taste buds. The dishes will be served a la carte, but customers can enjoy some free appetizers to kick off the feast. Amuse Bouche restaurant + wine bar 以創新的法式料理配上各款法國五月美食節期間特別折扣的勃艮
Tel 電話： 2891 3666
第葡萄酒，Amuse Bouche意思是令人味蕾興奮的開胃菜，所有光顧Amuse Bouche的客人點菜後都可
AVA Restaurant Slash Bar
AVA Restaurant Slash Bar features a young culinary team with fresh, seasonal ingredients that
Address 地址： 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀赫德道8A隆堡麗景酒店38樓
Tel 電話： 3550 0262
以享用一份免費的餐前開胃菜，為接下來的美酒佳餚揭開序幕。
concocts up a modern international cuisine. The French GourMay features a four-course meal including mushroom pastry with frog legs. Sitting on a 270-degree view of the Victoria Harbour, AVA Restaurant Slash Bar is the perfect venue to host a party or a gathering. AVA Restaurant Slash Bar年輕烹飪團隊以新鮮的時令食材炮製個現代國際美食，法國五月美食節期 間更推出勃艮第特式「四道菜」，菜式包括法式蘑菇千層酥配燒田雞腿等。坐擁270 度維港美景，AVA
Restaurant Slash Bar亦是舉辦派對聚會的絕佳場地。
Azure Restaurant Slash Bar Address 地址： 29 & 30/F, Hotel LKF by Rhombus, 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號隆堡蘭桂坊酒店29及30樓
Tel 電話： 3518 9330
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Azure Restaurant Slash Bar was designed by renowned designer Andre Fu who planned an open seating arrangement to take advantage of the incredible view of Hong Kong. For Le French GourMay, there will be a five-course menu with an optional wine pairing. Azure Restaurant Slash Bar 位於中環蘭桂芳酒店，餐廳設計出自著名設計師Andre Fu 手筆，時尚活 力，可飽覽港島景色的露天座位寬敞開揚，法國五月美食節期間亦會推出勃艮第「五道菜」餐單，配上勃 艮第美酒佳釀，悠閑寫意。
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The Brasserie on the Eighth 懷歐敘
Address 地址： Level 8, Conrad Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong 香港金鐘道88號太古廣場港麗酒店8樓
Tel 電話： 2521 3838
Chez Patrick Restaurant Address 地址： 2/ F Garden East, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔皇后大道東222號2樓
Tel 電話： 2541 1401
La Maison Address 地址： 1/F, Flat B, Mountain View Mansion, no.2 Swatow Street, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔汕頭街2號廣泰樓1樓B室
Tel 電話： 2628 3888
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Located in the Conrad Hotel in Admiralty, The Brasserie on the Eighth is where guests can enjoy the taste of traditional French cuisine. From May 20th to the 25th, Stéphane Gaborieau from the Michelin 2-starred Restaurant le Pergolèse will visit to showcase his cuisine with Burgundy wines. 位於港島金鐘港麗酒店的懷歐敘設有一列開放式廳房，讓客人在品嘗傳統歐陸法國菜餚的同時可以欣 賞廚師們的功架。法國五月美食節期間來自 Restaurant le Pergolèse 的米芝蓮星級大廚 Stéphane
Gaborieau更將於5月20至25日到訪懷歐敘，為食客帶來普羅旺斯的美味。
Chez Patrick Restaurant is stylish and comfortable, and the Executive Chef and founder, Chef Patrick Goubier has done his best for Le French GourMay 2013 with his special Bourgogne Menu. It is perfectly designed to explore the best wine for each course. Chez Patrick Restaurant的設計時尚而舒適，主廳兼創辦人Patrick Goubier特意為法國五月美食節設 計了一系列勃艮第美食餐單，配上同樣來自勃艮第的美酒佳釀，襯托出法式完美組合。
One of the best French restaurants in Hong Kong, La Maison is intimate, yet high-class and exclusive. For the French GourMay Festival, there will be a special discount on Burgundy wines. The food is of the highest quality and freshness. La Maison走的並不是星級餐廳的排場路線，給予客人的卻是彷如置身法國小餐館的小品風味。以最優質 與新鮮的食材烹調出一流的法式美饌。
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La Parole Address 地址： 3/F, The Pemberton, 22-26 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan 香港上環文咸東街22-26號The Pemberton 3樓
La Parole was Hong Kong’s first fusion French restaurant and operates also as a social enterprise. It raises revenue to help fund varies non-profit organizations, so enjoy their wonderful creations even more. La Parole供應的是傳統法式烹調菜餚，色香味俱全。La Parole亦是香港首間融合fine dining與社會企業
Tel 電話： 2436 4099
為一體的法國餐廳，餐廳收入扣除成本開支後均會全數撥款至註冊非牟利機構—庭欣兒童中心，協助語言
La Perouse Restaurant, Bar & Lounge
Located in Central, La Perouse will source ingredients directly from Burgundy for Le French
Address 地址： Level 5, 75-77 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環雲咸街75-77號5樓
Tel 電話： 2826 9269
La Terrasse
障礙的小朋友。
GourMay like mustard and snails. The atmosphere is lively and comfortable, offering diners a complete French experience. Every dish will be paired perfectly. 位於中環區的中心地帶，La Perouse 氣氛舒適而熱鬧，為慶祝法國五月美食節更特地採用了來自勃艮第 的食材，為食客提供完全法式的餐飲體驗。
La Terrasse is located in Central, with a spacious but simple interior. Guests can enjoy open air dining for traditional French food and Burgundy wine, which is a rare treat in this busy city.
Address 地址： G/F, 19 Old Bailey Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環奧卑利街19號地下
Tel 電話： 2147 2225
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La Terrasse 位於中環蘇豪區，餐廳設計簡潔而寬敞，氣氛柔和舒適，客人更可在其寧靜的露天位置享用 傳統法式菜餚，在繁忙的城市中享受一下難得的寧靜，以及來自勃艮第的不同美酒。
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Mirror Address 地址： 6/F Tiffan Tower, 199 Wan Chai Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Although Mirror isn’t based in a famous five-star hotel, the food is certainly worth of such a home. Customers during Le French GourMay will receive 10% off on the special Burgundy 4-course meal.
香港灣仔灣仔道199號天輝中心6樓
Mirror雖然不是名牌五星酒店旗下的高級餐廳，可是它的出品卻絕對擁有大將之風。在法國五月美食節其
Tel 電話： 2573 7288
間更會推出特別菜單以及勃艮第酒牌，讓客人品嘗媲美五星級的法式美味。
Privé French Restaurant
Located in the Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16, Privé can only accomodate 24 people, but that isn’t
Address 地址： 6/F, Sofitel Macau At Ponte 16, Rua do Visconde Paço de Arcos, Macau
a problem as the charm of the chef, Yannick Ehrsam keeps the customers coming back. This provides a welcome combination of familarity and high-end dining.
澳門內港巴素打爾古街十六浦索菲特酒店6樓
Tel 電話： (853) 8861 7290
位於澳門十六浦索飛特酒店的Privé 是一間能夠容納24 人的私人高級食府，由法籍主廚Yannick Ehrsam 主理，主打創新理念的高水準法式美饌，有別於一般的傳統私房法國菜館，別樹一幟。
St. George Address 地址： Hullet House, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Located in the landmark building Hullett House in Tsim Sha Tsui, St. George has a very easygoing and elegant atmosphere. Executive Chef Philippe Orrico will present an authentic French taste with the ingredients directly imported from Burgundy.
香港九龍尖沙咀廣東道2A號
Tel 電話： 3988 0220
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位於尖沙咀的地標性建築Hullett House中，St. George的氣氛與裝潢舒適而典雅，在滿滿懷舊英式風情 的環境中，由行政總廚Philippe Orrico精選來自勃艮第的優質食材，呈獻美味極致的法國滋味。
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Sky 21 Address 地址： 21/F, AIA Tower, 251A-301, Avenida Comercial de Macau, Macau
Sky 21 is located on the 21st floor of the AIA Tower in Macau, where patrons can enjoy a great view from the 20,000 sq ft bar. During the Le French GourMay promotional period, Sky 21 will pair their menu with wines from Domaine Chanson.
澳門商業大馬路251A-301號友邦廣場21樓
Tel 電話： (853) 2822 2122
The French Window Address 地址： Shop3101,IFC mall, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環國際金融中心商場3101
Tel 電話： 2393 3812
位於澳門的Sky 21 固名思義位於21樓，佔地二萬平方呎，居高臨下，簡約而型格。法國五月美食節期間 更推出以Domaine Chanson為主的配酒餐單，佐以特式佳餚，令人不禁在澳門瑰麗的景致中。
The French Window is located in the heart of Central in the IFC, showing off a spacious and bright dining room that brings up an imagined nostalgia for Paris. It’s a place where guests can enjoy a leisurely beer and fresh seafood. There will be a four-course meal for the festival. 以懷舊巴黎為主題的The French Window位於中環中心地帶的國際金融中心商場，寬敞明亮的環境中， 客人可以優閒地享用來自法國入口的啤酒與新鮮海產，法國五月美食節其間更會推出法式Brasserie 四道 菜餐單。
The Press Room Address 地址： 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan. The Press Room is a simple but classy environment to enjoy French cuisine away from the hustle and bustle of Central. There will be specials on Burgundy wine of course, and set menus.
香港上環荷李活道108號
Tel 電話： 2525 3444
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位於上環荷里活道的The Press Room遠離繁囂，環境簡樸舒適，提供現代化的法國美食，法國五月美食 節甚間亦會推出特別餐單及酒牌，當然少不了來自勃艮第的美酒系列！
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Vida Rica 御苑餐廳
Address 地址： 2/F, Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Do Sun Yat Sen, Alameda Dutor Carlos d’Assumpção 宋玉生廣場(皇朝)新填海區孫逸仙大馬路澳門文華東方酒店2樓
Vida Rica in the Mandarin Oriental Macau is gorgeous, with classic dishes adapted through small modern twists, and a beautiful glass splay overlooking the beautiful South China Sea and South Bay Lake.
御苑餐廳位於澳門文華東方酒店，食客除了可以享用到具有現代風味的經典美食外，亦可以透過一面華麗
Tel 電話： (853) 8805 8918
的玻璃牆俯瞰南海與南灣湖的醉人風光。惠顧晚餐的客人亦可在餐台上欣賞大廚的精湛廚藝。
Whisk
At Whisk in the Mira, VIPs and customers at the Chef’s Table can enjoy firsthand the chef’s
Address 地址： 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
culinary arts and technique in which he shows continental cooking styles. During Le French GourMay, Whisk will offer special menus for customers.
香港九龍尖沙咀彌敦道118號
Tel 電話： 2315 5999
Whisk位於The Mira酒店，格調時尚典雅，貴賓廳及「主廚餐桌」更可欣賞到大廚的烹調藝術，展示歐陸 美饌的烹飪過程。法國五月美食節期間更會推出特別菜式。
Chinese Cuisine
Cuisine Cuisine 國金軒
Address 地址： 3101, Podium Level 3, ifc mall, Central, Hong Kong
Cuisine Cuisine is located in the IFC and serves an extensive collection of Burgundy wines with exquisite Cantonese food. It was awarded a Michelin star and will presenting a special menu during Le French GourMay.
香港中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101店
Tel 電話： 2393 3933
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國金軒位於中現國際金融中心，盡享維港景致的國金軒以精緻的粵菜與豐富的藏酒庫而著名，曾榮獲米芝 蓮一星的國金軒於法國五月美食節期間亦會以優惠價呈獻多款勃艮第佳釀，配以星級美饌。
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Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant 金紫荊粵菜廳
Address 地址： Expo Galleria, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港灣仔博覽道1號香港會議展覽中心博覽商場
The Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant has been highly rated by local and international critics for over 10 years. It is constantly recommended by the Michelin guide, and has a team of award winning chefs that will craft a special Burgundy pairing menu for the Le French GourMay promotion. 金紫荊粵菜廳打著「用心演繹，粵菜藝粹。」的招牌在十多年間提供著各款粵式佳餚，得獎名廚精心炮製
Tel 電話： 2582 7728
的菜式口碑載道，更獲選為《米芝蓮指南—香港及澳門》推介餐廳之一。
New Shanghai
New Shanghai takes a healthier approach to the traditional style, and reduces the amount of oil
新滬坊
Address 地址： L1, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Habour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
and sugar used. The food is thusly more lightweight and subtle. Since its opening in 2009, for three consecutive years it has participated in “The Best of the Best Culinary Awards”, and was the only Shanghai restaurant to win a gold medal. They will offer a Bourgogne pairing menu for the festival.
香港灣仔港灣道1號香港會議展覽中心1樓
Tel 電話： 2582 7332
新滬坊以「海派」上海菜而著名，它將傳統上海菜加以改良，減少油和糖的份量，比傳統菜式更健康輕
Sing Yin Cantonese Dining
Sing Yin is located in the W Hotel in Hong Kong, and the chefs there will take you on a journey during
星宴
Address 地址： 1/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Road, West Kowloon, Kowloon Station 香港九龍柯士甸道西1號港鐵九龍站香港W酒店1樓
盈。自2009年開業以來連續三年參加「美食之最大賞」，並成為唯一一間榮獲金獎的上海菜館。
Le French GourMay, with a selection of traditional dishes paired with delightful Burgundian wines. 星宴位於香港W酒店中，由中菜部總廚李秉康師傅主理，憑著味覺與創意，在法國五月美食節其間將會推 出以勃艮第美酒配上精緻中菜的美道，中西合壁，巧妙配搭。
Tel 電話： 3717 2848
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Casual Dinings
Brasserie de L’ile www.brasseriedelile.com
A La Maison Restaurant & Bar www.lamaison.hk
Bistro 1979 www.bistro1979.com
Bistro Laurent Tourondel (BLT) Steak www.diningconcepts.com.hk
Bouchon Bistro Français www.diningconcepts.com.hk
Café de Paris www.cafedecogroup.com
Chez Les Copains www.chezcopains.com
Chez Patrick Deli www.chezpatrick.hk
Classified www.classifiedfood.com
www.hkcec.com
French American Bistro www.french-creations.com
Fleur de Sel www.facebook.com/fleurdeselhk
Kitchen www.w-hongkong.com/en/kitchen
La Cabane Wine Bistro www.lacabane.hk
La Marmite www.aqua.com.hk
Congress Restaurant
PRIV
會景餐廳
AT E DINING
Le Blanc www.blanc.com.hk
Les Fils à Maman www.lesfilsamaman.hk
Ma Cuisine www.monsieurchatte.com
Maison Eric Kayser www.maison-kayser.com.hk
Metropolitain www.french-creations.com
Mistral Restaurant www.sofitelmacau.com
Pastis www.french-creations.com
Portal-Work & Play hongkong.langhamplacehotels.com
Saint German www.french-creations.com
Stan Café www.stancafe.hk
W28 Steak House www.theeast.com.hk
Woo Bar www.w-hongkong.com/en/woobar
Zummer Fine Dining & Bar www.theeast.com.hk
La Rôtisserie www.facebook.com/larotisseriehk
METROPOLITAIN • B I S T R O
D E
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P A R I S •
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Workshops 工作坊 Asia Wine Service & Education Centre (AWSEC®) 亞洲侍酒及教育中心
Address 地址： Rm1503-08, 15/F, Kai Tak Commercial Building, 317319 Des Voeux Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上環德輔道中317-319號啟德商業大廈15樓1503-08室 Tel 電話：2964 0188 Website 網址： www.awsec.com
Ecole du Vin de France Address 地址： 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環安慶臺1號安慶大廈21樓
The Asia Wine Service & Education Centre was established in 1994 and it is the only program where students can take the full range of WSET courses. It was also the first school to offer A+ Australian Wine School and Barossa Wine School courses, and they offer Bordeaux and Burgundy courses now. 亞洲侍酒及教育中心於 1994 年成立，是唯一開展全系列 WSET 課程機構，首 辦A+澳洲葡萄酒學校及巴羅薩葡萄酒學校，以及勃艮第和波爾多葡萄酒學校課 程。
The Le French GourMay wine festival will be chaired by the Director of the Ecole du vin de France. French wine expert Oliver Thiénot, will be on hand to demonstrated at masterclasses and explore the Burgundian terroir. 於法國五月美食節期間將會由 Ecole du Vin de France 董事及葡萄酒專家 Oliver Thiénot主持葡萄酒大師班，探討勃艮第的風土特色。
Tel 電話：3971 9147 Website 網址：www.ecoleduvin.asia
TSA Wine School 俊邦亞洲葡萄酒學院
Address 地址： Unit 1502, 15/F, Perfect Commercial Building, 20 Austin Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室
TSA Wine School is a renowned wine institutes in Hong Kong, duringTSA’s 3rd Anniversary and the Le French GourMay promotional period, there will be a special discount on the workshops: “Master Tasting of Bourgogne” and “TSA Rookie Training Class”. 俊邦亞洲葡萄酒學院在法國五月美食節期間，為了慶祝學院創立三週年亦推出 特別優惠，報讀「尋找布根地的奧妙」以及「酒壇皇牌培訓班」的學員可享有 特別折扣。
Website 網址： www.talentstate.biz
美酒佳餚學院
This Asian Wine Academy will be celebrating its 3rd anniversary to attract Burgundy fans. Special offers will be sale, and students will have extra discounts.
Address 地址： School of Hotel and Tourism Management, 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號香港理工大學酒店及旅遊
美酒佳餚學院由唯港薈及香港理工大學酒店及旅遊業管理學院創立，由員工及行 業專才參予優質工作坊。法國五月美食節期間美酒佳餚學院亦會推出「布根地 品酒工作坊」及「布根地主題烹飪班」，教授勃艮第品酒及食品之烹調心得。
Food and Wine Academy
管理學院
Website 網址： www.polyu.edu.hk/htm/fwa
L’Atelier du Gôut Hong Kong Address 地址： Shop A2, G/F, Yoohoo Tower, 38 Kwai Fung Crescent, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong 香港新界葵涌葵豐街38號大鴻輝中心二期地下A2號舖 Tel 電話：2615 0638 Website 網址：www.atelierdugout.com.hk
Heather & March Address 地址： Shop 216-218, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環遮打道10號太子大廈216-218號舖 Website 網址： www.heatherandmarch.com
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L’Atelier du Gôut is a 3,000 square foot multi-functioning room where one can organizing an experienced team to aid you during either class cooking, contests, or demonstrations. The LeFrenchMay will be issuing Burgundy classes. L’Atelier du Gôut Hong Kong擁有佔地3000平方尺8的多功能廚藝工作坊， 由經驗豐富的團隊主理一系列活動如烹飪班、廚藝比賽或示範等。法國五月美食 節其間亦會舉行有關勃艮第美食的烹飪班。
Heather & March is a professional household goods and key maker. During the food festival they will work with Paul Decuse of the Cuisine Training Centre to jointly organize cooking festivals. Everyone from a student to the professor, Federico Luarte, will be participating in Burgundy. Heather & March 作為專業的法國高級家居用品以及餐桌用品，法國五月 美食節期間將會聯同保羅博古斯廚藝學院合辦烹飪工作坊，由學院行政總廚
Federico Duarte親身教授以勃艮第為主題的三道星級菜式。
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Retail Shops
Amo Eno www.amoeno.com
Chateau Burgundy www.chateauburgundy.com
Chez Patrick Deli www.chexpatrickdeli.hk
Christie’s佳士德 www.christies.com
City Cellar
city’super www.citysuper.com.hk
etc wine shops 斟‧酌 www.etcwineshops.com
Flavor www.homeflavour.com.hk
Jasons Food & Living www.jasons.com.hk
Jointak Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited
La Cabana Wine Cellar www.lacabance.hk
城市酒莊
www.citycellarmacau.com
GDV Fine Wines 葡萄酒坊 www.gdv.com.hk
駿德酒業（香港）在限公司
www.jointakfinewines.com.hk
LBC Fine Wine (Oversea) Company Limited lbcfinewine.com
Market Place www.marketplacebyjasons.com
Monsieur Chatté www.monsieurchatte.com
Oliver’s www.oliversthedeli.com.hk
PARKnSHOP www.parknshop.com www.greatfoodhall.com
Ponti Wine Cellars www.pontiwinecellars.com.hk
Rare & Fine Wines美酒珍藏 www.rarenfinewines.com
Red Dot Dot點點紅 www.reddotdot.com
Sarment www.sarmentwine.com www.sarment.hk
The Wine Gallery hk.asc-winegallery.com
ThreeSixty www.threesixtyhk.com
voi_la! www.crvangnard.com.cn
Watson’s Wine www.watsonswine.com
Yesmywine Hong Kong www.yesmywine.com.hk
Voici Wine www.voici-wine.com
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Ad_Cru-ipadV2-output.pdf
1
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Hong Kong’s - best -
Wine & lifestyle magazine iPad
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Cover Story
panel Tasting
Basquing in the Limelight Eguren Ugarte
The Black Wine 葡萄也尋根
烈日下的西班牙
Now available on iPad
email: info@cru-magazine.com | website: www.cru-magazine.com facebook: www.facebook.com/cru.magazine | blog: www.cru-magazine.com/blog | weibo: www.weibo.com/crumagazine
22-23/F Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong | tel: +852 3568 9100
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The Cream of the Crop 勃艮第精華遊
English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo, Eddie Chui // Images: Alvin Luk
e
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We’ve always wondered how 12 jaded veterans of the Hong
我們經常都取笑道，如果我們將 12 位資深的品酒專家困在一間酒
Kong wine trade would look like if we locked them in a hotel
店的餐廳內，然他強迫他們試飲 63 瓶勃艮第酒長達足足 4 小時會是
restaurant and forced them to drink 63 bottles of Burgundy
怎樣的情況？他們會否皺眉不高興？或許吧，若果我們只給他們喝
over four hours. Would they frown and pout? Perhaps if we
最普通的勃艮第紅酒或者勃艮第白酒的話。但若果我們提供的只是
only gave them Bourgogne Rouge or Bourgogne Blanc, the
特級田與一級田酒款的話呢？即使是這樣，我們仍然擔心他們會
most basic wines of the region. But what if we promised
覺得沉悶，因為我們只有兩種葡萄酒：紅酒為Pinot Noir、白酒為
to serve them only wines that are designated Premier or
Chardonnay。
Grand Cru? Even then, we worried that might get bored of drinking wines of only two grape varietals: Pinot Noir for
容我馬後炮說一句，坦白說，他們都很興奮，就算在眾品酒專家當
red, and Chardonnay for white.
中最經驗豐富的一位都未曾試過一次過試勻所有該酒區的頂尖酒 款。每個月都會有新來的酒莊來到香港希望大展拳腳，而當中只有
In hindsight however, let’s be honest. They were thrilled, as even
絕少部份令人失望，相反大部份都是精采絕倫的。
the most experienced taster has not tried every incredible wine in this most regal of wine regions. Every month new producers
勃艮第的一級與特級葡萄園
try their hand in the Hong Kong market, and some of the most
今個月我們聯同法國五月美食節一起，以宣揚勃艮第美酒為目標。
exceptional wines that we rated aren’t even household names.
我們在去年七月刊的時候已經做過一次來自勃艮第Côte de Nuits
Very few of the wines disappointed, and several at least were
的Pinot Noir品酒會，而勃艮第亦可算是世界上少數能夠以所產的
stunning.
白酒媲美其出色紅酒的產酒區之一。 Chardonnay ，這款在勃艮第 大放異彩的品種在Chablis、Côte de Beaune、以及Macon等地
The 1er and Grand Cru Wines of Burgundy
都可以找到。但這裡我們只展示出勃艮第最優秀、最頂尖的一面給
This month we partnered with Le French GourMay to proudly
讀者，也就是說我們今次只會品評來自特級和一級的葡萄田酒款。
showcase the wines of Bourgogne. And though we’ve partially
那麼，究竟特級和一級田是甚麼？
covered this topic last year in July when we wrote about the Pinot Noirs of the Côte de Nuits, Burgundy is truly one of the
古老的分級制度
few regions in the world where the white wines are equally as
追溯勃艮第的歷史，西妥教團的僧侶是在此地區中擁有最多葡萄田
prestigious as their red wines. Chardonnay is revered in Chablis,
的一群。時移世易，這些僧侶和產酒商發現，原來這些田地各自都
in the Côte de Beaune, and of course in areas like Macon. But
能夠種出獨特味感的酒款，擁有各自特有的香氣和質感，於是把這
we wanted to showcase only the best of Burgundy, and that
些田地各自命名，再把它們以石頭造的圍牆隔起。就好像著名的特
meant that we would naturally have to stick with wines from
級田 Clos de Vougeot，意思為「圍牆下的Vougeot」。
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Grand Cru or 1er Cru vineyards. So what exactly are Grand or 1er Cru vineyards? Ancient Classifications Early in the history of Burgundy, the Cistercians monks of the Catholic Church owned most of the vineyards in the region and made wines of great diversity. Over time, the monks and the producers that owned the land after them noted which areas produced wines of distinct aromatic character or texture, giving them special names and cordoning the vineyards off with stone walls. For example, the famous Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot means the “enclosure of Vougeot”, as the whole vineyard is fenced off. And as land in Burgundy is hilly and uneven, to get the most sunlight vineyards were often positioned diagonally on slopes, and this is where the majority of the Grand and 1er Cru vineyards are located. Though 1er Cru wines are not always necessarily
就著勃艮第的地勢山丘地伏的關係，為了令葡萄園的日照時間更
better than standard “village” wines (a wine labelled simply
長，葡萄都會種在向陽的一面山坡，這亦是大部份特級田與一級
Chambolle Musigny for example is a “village” level wine), they
田的所在地。即使一般的一級田酒款並不需比村莊級的酒質素好
usually show more complexity, depth, and longevity. Still, a 1er
（一瓶來自Chambolle
Cru wine from a legendary winery like Domaine Leroy is almost
質通常都更複雜、更有深度和悠長。然而，一瓶來自傳奇式名莊如
undoubtedly equal in quality to most Grand Cru wine from any
Domaine Leroy的一級田酒款更在排名與人氣方面，與許多特級田
producer in Burgundy.
酒莊都能夠平起平坐。
Musigny的酒都只是村莊級別），而且酒
Scoring system
100 point system / 100分系統
points awarded
year of tasting
best potential year to taste
得分
品評年份
最佳飲用年份
96-100 90-95
88 2012
2020A
D – drink now 現在享用 A – suitable to drink now, but will improve with time可享用，但陳年會更佳 K – allow more maturing time before enjoying應再陳年一段時間才享用
Panel Tasting_Burgundy-2.indd 4
Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒，各方面達到最高水準，讓人再三回味。
Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring 出眾的酒，各方面表現出色，鮮明具吸引力 。
85-89
Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir
80-84
Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.
70-79
Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.
60-69
Dull or flat wine without character
50-59
Faulty or unacceptable wine
品質優良的酒，有個性，能顯示產區風格並表現突出。 品質優良的酒，有個性，能顯示產區風格並，但表現並不突出。 簡單，直接的酒，但未能突個性。 不對眼，沒有個性，沉悶的酒。 有問題，不能接受的酒
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Tasters
From Left: William Chan, Zachary Yu, Jordi Chan, Mabel Lai, Louise Lee, Grace Zheng, Eddie Chui, Vincent Yuen, Don Kwok, Ian Symonds, Hood Hon
Guest Tasters Grace Zheng Grace Zheng is an experienced wine educator in Mainland China who teaches the WSET Level 3. As well as freelancing for some of China’s wine magazines like Hurun Report, China Wine News, Vivi, and Vinovogue, Grace is also an active and popular blogger on WeiBo. 鄭瑋菡Grace是在中國大陸教授WSET第三級別的資深導師。她亦有在一些內地葡萄酒雜誌如《胡 潤百富》、《華夏酒報》、《酒典》和《酒尚》等撰寫文章。Grace亦是新浪微博「小旗袍的美味 人生」的博主。
Louis Lee Louis Lee has been working in Hong Kong’s wine industry for years. He is a Certified Burgundy Educator and has been teaching corporate and public classes regarding the topic to Hong Kong’s Burgundy wine lovers. Louis is also a veteran of the industry, having worked in multiple importing companies throughout his career. Louis在酒行業工作多年。他同樣是勃艮第認證導師，主要從事葡萄酒教育工作，為不同的機構、 公司提供葡萄酒訓練。近年更專注於勃艮地葡萄酒。在業界工作多年，曾在不同機構任職。
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Map of Burgundy 勃艮第地圖
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Chablis The seven Grand Crus of Chablis are unique in Burgundy mostly because they are all situated on the same large hill that overlooks the town of Chablis. But though they sit side by side, the qualities in each vineyard are startlingly different. For example, Chablis from Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ is usually considered more powerful than Chablis from Grand Cru ‘Les Blanchot’, due to the more southerly location of ‘Les Clos’. As for 1er Cru Chablis, there are 40 vineyards that have this designation. Compared to basic Chablis, 1er Cru wines usually require a bit more age to open up, and can still be taut and intensely closed at eight years of age. Unlike basic Chablis, 1er and Grand Cru Chablis are usually oaked, and may require many years to integrate the vanilla notes and soften their famously high acidity.
Chablis內的七個特級葡萄田是勃艮第地區內最著名的，因為它們都同樣座落於同一座山上，同時俯瞰著Chablis城鎮。但即使形它們彼此相鄰地排列 著，每一個葡萄田的質量都不盡相同，例如：來自Les Clos的特級田位置由於處於較南方的關係，它的Chablis通常都會比來自特級田Les Blanchot 的Chablis來得有勁。對於Chablis的一級莊則總共有40片葡萄園獲得這個稱號。對比起基本的普通Chablis，來自一級田的酒款大多需要更長的陳年 時間來慢慢熟成，即使是足足八年時間也可能未必足夠，酒釀仍然有機會顯得過於緊實。不同於基本的Chablis酒款，來自特級田與一級田的Chablis 通常都會經過木桶熟成，而且更加需要更多時間來把雲呢拿香滲入酒液中，同時軟化Chablis酒中特有的高酸度。
$845
Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots “Réserve de l’Obédience” 2oo9 93 2013
2020A
Edrington Hong Kong Ltd // 2831 7222 // www.larochewines.com
Mabel Lai
Deep lemon colour. Obvious traces of butter, lemon and ripe fruits like peaches and pears. Clear acidity with some nutty, lemon, and mineral characteristics. Crisp finish. 深檸黃。明顯的牛酒、檸檬及成熟的蜜桃及啤梨。清晰的酸度，帶著堅果、檸檬及礦物的 味道。收結清爽。
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PANEL TASTING
Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons 2oo8 92 2013
053
$278
2020A
Abbelio wines // 3170 8458 // www.billaud-simon.com
Grace Zheng The wine shows a brilliant light golden colour with a nose of mineral, flowers and a sweet touch of citrus. On the palate it is round with plenty of acidity. The fruit and minerals are balance well and have an elegant finishing. 酒體呈明亮的淡金黃色，充滿礦物、花香和甜美的柑橘氣息。口感圓潤中透出酸度。果味及礦物 感平衡極好，回味優雅。
$541
Domaine Chanson Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2oo9 91 2013
2020A
Jebsen Fine Wines // 2924 8777 // www.vins-chanson.com
Louis Lee Classic nose with compexity and elegance. Great fruit and intense purity. Pronounced minerality and a firm structure. 經典的優雅而複雜的香味。果香純正豐厚。礦物明顯，結構緊密。
Domaine Vincent Dampt Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys 2oo9 91 2013
$200
2018A
Corney & Barrow // 3694 3305 // www.vincentdampt.com
Jordi Chan Medium lemon colour with typical Chablis zest. Minerals merging well with apple blossoms, pears, and peaches. Refreshing acidity supporting the smooth texture, with vanilla, nuts, stonefruit, and apple on the palate. Good length. 中等的檸黃，帶Chablis的清香。礦物跟蘋果花、啤梨及蜜桃自然融和。清新的酸度支撐 著細滑的單寧， 伴隨著呍呢哪，堅果、檸橡及礦物的味道。收結悠長。
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054
PANEL TASTING
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vay 2o1o
$191
91 2013
2018A
Altaya Wines Ltd // 2523 1945 // www.brocard.fr
Zachary Yu Day bright yellow with a medium-plus intensity. Beautiful nose of rich lemon, honey, fresh gala apple, orange blossoms, and minerals. Dry lemon and honey on the palate with a rich minerality and a medium-long finish. 日光般的黃色酒體，帶中等的濃度。美麗的豐腴檸檬、蜜糖、鮮蘋果、橙花加上礦物香。入口以 乾檸檬及蜜糖為主，帶豐富的礦物及中等長度的收結。
Domaine Vrignaud Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume “Les Vaupulans” 2o1o 90 2014
$324
2020A
Montrose Fine Wines // 2555 8877 // www.domaine-vrignaud.com
William Chan Clean and pure with lime and flint on the nose, this Chablis has a long finish and a firm focus with stonefruits and an intense acidity. Dry on the palate and impressive. 乾淨而純正的青檸及火石香氣。這款Chablis收結悠長，帶結實的核果及高酸度。入口乾身， 很出色。
$227
Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Forets 2oo9 90 2018
2022K
open market / city’super // 2306 3832 // www.louismicheletfils.com
Jordi Chan Medium lemon colour; subtle nose showing grapefruit peel, hints of smoke, and nuts. On the palate it has limestone characters with minerals, very sharp citrus fruit like lemon and limes, and lots of white peaches. This is beautiful. Good length. 中等的檸黃。收斂的香氣帶西柚皮、煙燻味及堅果氣息。入口強烈的石炭岩個性，伴隨突出的柑 橘果如檸檬、青檸，加上豐富的白桃香。美麗而收結悠長。
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Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2oo8 90 2013
055
$416
2015D
open market / K-Element Ltd. // www.nathalieetgillesfevre.com
Zachary Yu Bright pale greenish yellow. Lemon aromas with hints of green apple and white flowers. Dry on palate with lemon peel and a medium-high acidity. Crisp, green apple finish. 明亮帶青綠的黃色。檸檬的香氣帶陣陣青蘋果及白花。入口乾身，帶檸皮及中等酸度。清爽的青 蘋果香。
$174
La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2o1o 90 2013
2016D
open market / Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 // www.chablisienne.com
William Chan Clean and ripe with yellow fruits, pears, and notes of honey, this wine is round but firm. Well balanced. 乾淨而帶成熟的黃果、啤梨，及陣陣蜜糖香。酒體圓潤而結實， 平衡有緻。
Domaine Jean-Pierre et Alexandre Ellevin Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin 2o1o 89 2013
$298
2018A
General Wine & Foods Co. Ltd // 2545 8604
Mabel Lai Has a lemon colour and a subtle aroma of green apples, flowers, and citrus fruits. Similar flavours on the palate, with a lingering mineral finish and some acidity. 檸檬黃色，帶淡淡的青蘋果、花香、柑橘果香。入口味道差不多， 帶細滑的礦物及酸度。
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056
PANEL TASTING
Maison Albert Bichot Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaillons 2oo9
$388
88 2013
2016D
voi_la!// 2523 1945 // www.brocard.fr
Louis Lee Mineral nose with citrus and lime. Well balanced with enough acidity to support the wine. Traces of pear at the finish. 礦物、柑橘及青檸的香味。平衡而充足的酸度支持著酒體。收如帶點啤梨香。
Domaine Laroche Chablis 1er Cru Fouchaumes Vielles Vignes 2oo9 87 2013
$335
2015D
Edrington Hong Kong Ltd // 2831 7222 // www.larochewines.com
Grace Zheng Brilliant light golden colour with a focused nose of citrus with touch of floral notes. On the palate it is fresh and fruity, and composed of minerals with a medium finish. 明亮的淡金黃色。香氣集中，柑橘的氣息中透發著花香。入口果味鮮明，帶礦物味，回味 中等。
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057
Montagny Montagny is the only village in the sub-region of Côte Chalonnaise where Chardonnay is the sole varietal allowed to grow here by AOC laws. It is further south than Mercurey and much warmer than Chablis or even the Côte de Beaune. As a result, the wines are accessible and ripe, with balance a large concern.
Even though Montagny has always had 49 Premier Crus, these Premier Crus take up over 50% of the growing space, so 1er Cru quality is less guaranteed here. But as more top producers from other parts of Burgundy are starting to grow grapes in the area, the standard and general perception of Montagny wine is increasing. Montagny 是Côte Chalonnaise 內唯一一條AOC 條例下種植Chardonnay 的釀酒村莊。這裡比 Mercurey的位置更南，而且比Chablis甚至Côte de Beaune都要暖和。所以這裡造的酒都擁有相 當高的成熟度，也有相當不錯的平衡。 即使Montagny區內有達49塊一級田，但這些葡萄田的生長地域已經擴展至超過50%，從而令其一 級田的水準和質素相對保證較低。另一方面，現時又卻有不少的外來酒莊或酒商開始在這裡種植葡 萄，間接也令到Montagny的酒釀聲譽回升。
Domaine Henri de Villamont Montagny 1er Cru 2oo9 90 2013
$260
2018A
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.hdv.fr
Mabel Lai A medium intense nose of pears, lemons, and flowers. Lingering mineral finish and some acidity, hints of nuts, lemons, and pears. 中等香氣，包含著啤梨、檸橡及花香。柔順的礦物收結，加上適度的酸度、堅果、檸橡及啤 梨氣息。
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058
PANEL TASTING
$187
Domaine Olivier Leflaive Montagny 1er Cru Les Bonneveaux 2o1o 90 2013
2015A
Corney & Barrow // 2537 3325 // www.olivier-leflaive.com
William Chan Clean and clear nose and appearance. Notes of pear, flint, and oak. Dry but soft and round. 潔淨而純正的香味，帶啤梨，火石及橡木香。乾身而圓潤的收結。
Jean Bouchard Montagny 1er Cru 2o1o 89 2013
$158
2016A
Edrington Hong Kong Ltd // 2831 7222
Zachary Yu Bright golden with fresh green fruits, minerals, and a touch of herbs, the wine is floral and well balanced with a good acidity and length. Touches of vanilla and spice which are round and complex. 明亮而金黃的新鮮綠果、礦物，帶點草本香味。酒體偏向花香而平衡。帶良好的酸度及長 度。陣陣的呍呢哪及香料。圓潤而複雜。
$260
Maison Louis Latour Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche 2o1o 87 2013
2014D
Links Concept // 2802 2818 // www.louislatour.com
Louis Lee Intense nose of minreals and simple citrus fruit. Very balanced with a firm acidity. Good structure with hints of nuts at the finish. 豐厚的礦物香加上簡單的柑橘果味。入口帶平衡而結實的酸度。收結帶堅果香而緊緻。
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059
Beaune
The village of Beaune is the cultural centre of the Côte de Beaune, and many of the big négociant (merchant) houses are based here like Bouchard, Louis Latour, and Louis Jadot to name but a few. Although there are no official Grand Cru vineyards, some of the best négociant wines come from vineyards here like Grèves. Bouchard Père & Fils for example, always serves their Grèves wine after all their other Grand Cru wines in tastings, showing their valuation of the property. With so many négociant wines being made here, one could expect the quality of the wine to be relatively consistent, albeit rarely spectacular. There are 42 1er Cru vineyards, with Pinot Noir dominant, although a small amount of Chardonnay is also made. Beaune的村莊所在地是Côte de Beaune的文化心臟地帶，許多酒商的大屋都座落於這片土地上，如Bouchard、Louis Latour和Louis Jadot等。雖然 這裡並沒有官方認可的特級田地，但仍然吸引到一些著名品牌進駐像Grèves那樣的葡萄田。 擁有這麼多大型酒商進駐，可以想像得到這裡所生產的酒的質素如何。這裡總共有42片一級田，以Pinot Noir為主，其次亦有少量Chardonnay。
Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune 1er Cru Beaune du Château 2oo8 88 2013
$375
2015D
Summergate Ltd // 2545 4100 // www.bouchard-pereetfils.com
Mabel Lai Has a lemon colour and a subtle aroma of green apples, flowers, and citrus fruits. Similar flavours on the palate, with a lingering mineral finish and some acidity. 檸檬黃色，帶淡淡的青蘋果、花香、柑橘果香。入口味道差不多， 帶細滑的礦物及酸度。
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060
PANEL TASTING
Pernand-Vergelesses
Pernand-Vergelesses is in the Côte de Beaune and produces both white and red wines. Eight vineyards are designated 1er Cru here, and although Pernand-Vergelesses has no Grand Cru vineyards, there are three that border the village: Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, and Charlemagne. Pernand-Vergelesses是位於Côte de Beaune、同時生產紅白酒的產酒區。擁有八塊一級葡萄田；即使這裡並沒有特級田，但仍有用以劃分村莊的 境界線：Corton、Corton-Charlemagne與及Charlemagne村。
$320
Domaine Antonin Guyon Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille 2o1o 88 2013
2015D
Fico International Ltd // 2850 4799 // www.guyon-bourgogne.com
Grace Zheng Light straw yellow in colour. Nose of nuts, pomelo and almonds. On the palate there is lots of minerality, with a very fine and structured body. Well balanced acidity and fruitiness. 淺稻草黃色，帶堅果、柚子及杏仁的香氣。入口礦物細密扎實，酸度跟果味平衡感良好。
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061
Corton Charlemagne
This hilltop Grand Cru vineyard stretches through three villages: Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Ladoix-Serrigny, and is one of the largest Grand Crus in Burgundy. A vast amount of producers make wine here, and though it is a Grand Cru vineyard, the quality will vary greatly according to the winery and location. With such a large vineyard, the weather in certain parts will be warmer, yielding richer wines, while cooler in some, yielding more acidic wines. The key is balance, and with great Corton-Charlemagne in ripe vintages, citrus and stone fruits emerge, accompanied with a complex chalkiness. But it is the length of CortonCharlemagne wines that is incredible. Not only do these wines age for a long time, but also once you take a sip the flavour seems to go on forever. 這個位於山頂的特級葡萄田橫跨三條村莊：Aloxe-Corton、Pernand-Vergelesses和Ladoix-Serrigny，亦是勃艮第 最大的特級田。大量的產酒商都在這裡釀酒，而更因為這裡是特級葡萄田，這裡的酒莊也能夠容易地釀出優秀的酒款。 有著這麼一大片葡萄田，有某些區域氣溫會比較暖，種出比較厚身的酒；而比較涼爽的地域則釀出更酸的酒。其中最重 要的一點，就是平衡。在偉大的Corton-Charlemagne，成熟熟高的年份中，柑橘和核果的味道會較重，而且帶有大量 的礦物味，但真正驚人的卻是Corton-Charlemagne酒的長度。不只是長期熟成的時間，而是輕呷一口後，酒香仍然縈 繞不散、揮之不去的那種效果。
Domaine Simon Bize et Fils Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne 2oo8 95 2014
$1040
2026K
Sarment // 2187 3297 // www.domainebize.fr
Mabel Lai Light golden colour, comes with a nose of hazelnuts, stone fruit, and citrus. Has an incredibly balanced acidity with great power and structure; a very long finish. The minerality on this wine is superb. 淺金黃色，帶有艷麗的核果、榛子、柑橘的香氣，結構強大但富有平衡的酸度，回味悠長， 礦物清爽有勁而不失優雅。
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062
PANEL TASTING
$788
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne 2009 94 2014
2024K
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // 5363 6638 // www.comte-truffiere.com
William Chan Intense aromas of ripe fruit, but the wine has more mineral and flint notes. Traces of oak that are integrating well; very clean and a tremendously long finish. 濃郁的熟果香味，酒體帶不少礦物及火石氣息。帶陣陣橡木香，融和到酒體中，悠長而純正的 收結。
Domaine Chanson Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne 2oo9 92 2014
$1116
2022A
Jebsen Fine Wines // 2925 8777 // www.vins-chanson.com
Louis Lee Elegant nose with minerals and white flowers. Very good potential for improvement. The acidity is long and supportive, and the structure is firm. Clean and nutty finish. 優雅的香氣，帶礦物及白花香。有很好的潛質，酸度悠長而結構緊緻。純正而帶堅果香。
$1230
Maison Nicolas Potel Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne 2oo8 2025K 91 2014 Enoteca // 2526 9099 // www.nicolas-potel.fr
Zachary Yu Intense nose of minreals and simple citrus fruit. Very balanced with a firm acidity. Good structure with hints of nuts at the finish. 花香帶點香料如玉框的香甜。青檸、礦物及熱帶果香，伴隨煙燻、火石收結，平衡良好。
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063
Chassagne-Montrachet
Some of the greatest white wines of the world are made in Chassagne-Montrachet, although over the past century Chassagne was actually known more for its Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. Things have changed since then, and now 70% of the grapes grown on 1er Cru land are Chardonnay. In general, the Chardonnay from here is warm and intense, with round and very supple citrusy flavours. There is a richness to Chassagne that is quite distinctive, and with 55 1er Crus in the village, much of the land yields extremely complex wines that can age for over 10-15 years. The legendary Grand Cru vineyards of Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet lie on the borders of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, while a third Grand Cru, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, is located entirely within Chassagne-Montrachet. Montrachet wines made on the ChassagneMontrachet side are called ‘Le Montrachet’. 世界上一部份最佳的白酒都是來自Chassagne-Montrachet，即使在過去的Chassagne都以其Pinot Noir聞名，甚少會提及其Chardonnay。但時代不 同，現在這裡的一級田上有達70%都種植著Chardonnay。總括來說，這裡的Chardonnay溫暖而集中，帶有圓潤而鮮明的柑橘風味。Chassagne又有 一個非常獨特之處，就是在這裡的55片一級田當中，大部份都能夠釀造極度複雜的酒體，隨時可以陳存10-15年時間。
Montrachet與Bâtard-Montrachet傳奇特級葡萄園座落於Chassagne-Montrachet及Puligny-Montrachet的邊緣上，而另一片特級田Criots-BâtardMontrachet又座落於Chassagne-Montrachet的中央。在Chassagne-Montrachet周邊出產的所有酒款都只能稱為「Le Montrachet」。
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret 2oo9 2018K 93 2014
$580
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.comte-truffiere.com
William Chan Incredibly round and aromatic with an almost salty minerality, this lush wine has notes of citrus, lime, and flint. Long lasting finish. 難以相信的圓潤香氣，伴以豐富的礦物味。豐盈的酒體帶柑橘，青檸，火石。悠長的收結。
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064
PANEL TASTING
$702
Domaine Chanson Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 2o1o 91 2013
2017A
Jebsen Fine Wines // www.vins-chanson.com
Louis Lee Complex aromas of ripe stonefruit with even tropical notes coming in layers. Flint, butterscotch, and spices. Delicious wine. 帶複雜的核果香氣，及陣陣熱帶氣息。入口以火石、牛酒蛋糕及香料為主，美味。
Domaine Fleurot-Larose Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Roquemaure 2oo9 $510 89 2013
2020A
Château Burgundy // 2375 3832 // www.fleurotlarose.com
Zachary Yu Bright yellow with toasted almonds and ripe apples on the nose. Honey, lemon peel, and nutmeg on the palate. 明亮的黃色，帶烤烘杏仁及成熟蘋果香，入口以蜜糖、檸皮及豆蔻為主。
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065
Saint-Aubin
Situated right alongside Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin is one of the best places to find bargains in Burgundy, if not the best for white wines. The Chardonnay from some of the top 1er Crus like ‘Les Murgers des Dents de Chien’ and ‘En Remilly’ are astounding in good vintages, and while they may never rival the Grand Cru wines of their illustrious neighbours, they are often less than five times the price—but definitely not five times less the quality. Though simplistic, one way to think about Saint-Aubin is that the wines on the Chassagne side show more richness, while the ones closer to Puligny are more textured, minerally, and elegant. Even though Saint-Aubin is Chardonnay country, some Pinot Noir is grown. 1er Cru ‘Sur le Sentier du Clou’ is one of the best red vineyards in SaintAubin, and produces enjoyable but not very complex wines. 座落於Chassagne-Montrachet與Puligny-Montrachet旁邊，Saint-Aubin要不是勃艮第地區其中一個生產著最物美價廉的酒款產地，就是最佳的白酒產 地。來自頂級的一級田如Les Murgers des Dents de Chien和En Remilly都生產著極佳的Chardonnay，而更因為它們從未與他們的鄰里—特級莊的名 酒有所競爭，他們通常都會標價低達五倍，只是標價哦，並不代表他們的酒質也會減低五倍。簡單來說，Saint-Aubin近Chassagne的一邊呈現的是更 豐富的味道，而近著Puligny的一邊則擁有更多質感、礦物味與優雅的特質。 就算Saint-Aubin是Chardonnay的世界，仍然有些少Pinot Noir種植在這裡。一級田Sur le Sentier du Clou便是Saint-Aubin其中一片最優秀的紅葡萄 田，出產簡單直接而美味的酒款。
Domaine Catherine & Dominique Derain Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2oo9 90 2014
$550
2018K
La Cabane Wine Cellar // 2517 0186 // www.domainederain.com
Zachary Yu Very well balanced with a sweet cinnamon and nutmeg complexity. Ripe lemons and very mineral. Jasmine tea on the finish. 良好的平衡， 帶甜美的玉桂及豆蔻的複雜感。成熟的檸檬及豐富的礦物。收結有點茉莉茶香。
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$260
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2oo9 90 2013
2016A
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.comte-truffiere.com
Louis Lee Ready and approachable with ripe fruit, pear, and hints of spice. Assisted by vanilla from the oak, this is complex and complete. 適飲而可享用的酒，帶成熟果香，梨子及陣陣香料味。顯現出橡木的呍呢哪味，複雜而完整。
Domaine Henri Prudhon Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sentier du Clou 2oo9 89 2013
$269
2016A
Globus Wine // 2926 8777 // www.henri-prudhon.fr
Mabel Lai Golden colour with pronounced ripe peaches and melons on the nose. Medium intensity of pear, peaches, and minerals with medium acidity. 金黃色的酒體，帶突出的成熟蜜桃及蜜瓜香。入口充滿啤梨、蜜桃及礦物味，帶中等酸度。
$350
Domaine Vincent Prunier Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2009 87 2013
2015D
Château Burgundy // 2375 3832
William Chan The nose is clean, and there are supple ripe pears, nuts, and spices on the palate with a nice oak touch. Short on the finish however. 香味純正潔淨，入口充滿成熟的啤梨、堅果及香料，帶點橡木氣息。收結反而有點短。
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Meursault Although Meursault has no Grand Crus, the best of its 1er Crus are often mentioned in the same breath as those of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, and like those two villages, the wines produced here are made of Chardonnay. Meursault has 19 1er Cru, and the wines from the most famous of these vineyards are able to age extensively, rewarding patience and good care. They also command very high prices. 即使Meursault沒有特級田，但其一級田卻不時與Chassagne-Montrachet和Puilgny-Montrachet齊名。而Meursault與這兩片著名的葡萄田都是一樣 以Chardonnay種植為主。
Meursault擁有19片一級田，而這些來自這片著名葡萄田的酒款都能夠陳年得很好，是值得耐心等待的酒款。它們亦是聲譽相當高的酒款之一。
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes-Dessus 2oo9 92 2016
$580
2022K
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.comte-truffiere.com
Jordi Chan Pale lemon colour. An intense nose of pineapples, peaches, citrus, and smoke. Very complex. Stonefruit and pineapple on the palate with hints of vanilla. Medium finish. 淡檸黃色，帶濃郁的菠蘿、蜜桃、柑橘及煙燻香。入口以核果及菠蘿為主，帶陣陣的呍呢哪 香。收結屬中等。
$385
Domaine Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres 2oo9 89 2016
2020K
L’Imperatrice Fine Wines // 2537 3325 // www.domainemikulski.fr
Grace Zheng Light golden colour; on the nose it has a very pure aroma, with touches of nuts and minerals. The structure is balanced with good acidity. Very young at the moment. Will need several years to be ready. 淺金黃色， 非常純淨的香氣，帶著堅果和礦物感覺。結構平衡，酸度適中。
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Puligny-Montrachet Though Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are next to each other, most critics consider Puligny-Montrachet the more prestigious and fabled. The wines here are elegant and refined; they generally show more structure and firmness, but really the beauty of Puligny-Montrachet is in the energy and minerality of the wine. There are 24 1er Cru vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, with almost half of the land designated as such, but in the greatest vineyards like ‘Les Pucelles’, ‘Les Folatières’, ‘Les Combettes’, and ‘La Truffière’, prices may even exceed Grand Cru wines. Speaking of Grand Cru wines, Puligny-Montrachet has four. Besides Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet, which as mentioned before are situated along the border with Chassagne, there is also Chevalier-Montrachet, and Bienvenues- Bâtard-Montrachet. Simply put, these white wines are some of the most grand, but also the most expensive in the world. 縱使Chassagne-Montrachet與Puligny-Montrachet與彼此相鄰，許多評論都指出Puligny-Montrachet比較優越。這裡的酒優雅而精緻，結構良好緊 實，是Puligny-Montrachet酒的經典美態。Puligny-Montrachet共有24片一級田，幾乎一半的土地如Les Pucelles、Les Folatières、Les Combettes和
La Truffière等出產的酒款都比特級田的為高。 說起特級田的酒，Puligny-Montrachet一共有四片特級田，除了前文提及、位於Chassgne旁的的Montrachet及Bâtard-Montrachet外，還有Chevalier-
Montrachet和Bienvenues- Bâtard-Montrachet。總括來說，這些地方出產的白酒可以說是全世界是優越、賣得最貴的酒款。
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 2oo9 2018A 93 2013
$585
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // 5363 6638 // www.comte-truffiere.com
Mabel Lai Deep golden colour with buttery notes from the oak. Ripe peaches, melon, and lemon on the palate with a very mineral and round finish. 深黃的酒體，充滿著由橡木而來的奶油質感。入口帶成熟的蜜桃、蜜瓜及檸橡，加上充滿礦物 的收結。
Maison Arthur Barolet & Fils PulignyMontrachet 1er Cru Sous le Puits 2o1o 91 2016
2022K
$622
Montrose Fine Wines // 2555 8877
Jordi Chan Medium lemon colour. On the nose it is subtle, showing white blossoms, white peaches, grapefruits, and lots of minerality. On the palate, a wonderfully balanced wine. Lovely acidity pairs with a good depth. Tastes of pomelo, peaches, minerals, and pineapple with a great length. 中等的檸黃。香味較收斂，帶白花、白桃、西柚及豐富的礦物香。入口非常平衡。討人的酸 度加上深度。味道帶柚子、蜜桃、礦物及菠蘿，收結悠長。
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Vintage Chart for whites 白勃艮第年份概況
2011:
A difficult and unripe year with fluctuating weather conditions. Acidity was high, but many producers were worried about the balance. Stick with the producers you trust; they often work well through troubled years. 這是一個十分另類的年份，一些優秀的酒莊造出的酒相當不錯，但是有些酒卻未能盡如人意。當中最佳的特級田產酒 大約陳年四至五年便已經適合飲用，而一級田產的酒款則由2016年至2025年都適合飲用。
2010:
The wines of 2010 won’t be as open and expressive as 2009’s, but don’t let that detract from the fact that this is also a superb year. Slightly lower yields, but there is great precision and balance in these wines. For 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, some of the best wines were made in this vintage. Laurent Ponsot作為Domaine Ponsot的偉大釀酒師，他稱2010為「100% terroir」的一年，低產量與極為反覆的天氣令 釀酒師們都非常頭痛。但成功釀成的酒款當中大部份都有著精緻、平衡而獨特的酒質。一個極之偉大的年份。
2009:
One of the best vintages for Chardonnay. A classic year where the wines will be ripe and accessible early. May not have the complete balance of 2010, but these are very enjoyable and spectacular wines that will be long-lived. 這是一個對釀酒師來說十分輕鬆的一年。這一年的酒產量豐盛而酒體結構都十分不錯，年輕時便已經適合飲用。各個產 酒區都有釀出不錯的好酒，然而亦需要多幾年時間作陳年，或者至少三個小時醒酒。這是勃艮第其中一個最佳的年份。
2008:
This low-yielding vintage was troubled with wildly varying weather conditions. But where producers have worked hard there are excellently balanced wines that show ripeness, but also a pure acidity. Initially it looked like a troubled vintage, but the wines are developing very well. 酒質平衡，能夠很好地反映出當地terroir。反觀在部份個別酒莊都做得不錯、有些也有間中失手，但一級田與特級田 都有著良好的純淨度、酸度和清新度。適合現在飲用，但亦可陳年至少十年。
Other notable years from the last decade: 過去十年中其他不錯的年份： 2002, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
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Beaune $699
Château Drapier & Fils Beaune Grand Cru Corton 2oo8 91 2013
2018A
voi_la! // 2827 8333
Don Kwok Charming and light garnet with a subtle red fruit character like dates and fresh cherries. Good long acidity and minerality that leaves a lengthy finish. 耀目的淡石榴色，帶棗及鮮櫻桃的紅果氣息。入口帶良好的酸度及礦物味，收結悠長。
Domaine Jacques Prieur Beaune 1er Cru Beaune Champs-Pimont 2oo9 90 2013
2018A
$360
Abbelio Wines // 3576 3001 // www.prieur.com
Eddie Chui The nose is a bit closed at this point, leaving a bit of toast. But on the palate there is great acidity and minerality, leaving a refreshing and subtle finish. The tannins are silky, though still too young. 現在香氣較收斂，以烤烘味為主。入口卻有豐富的礦物及酸度，清新而帶柔和的收結。單寧 如絲幼細滑，仍然年青。
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$405
071
Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversees 2oo9 89 2013
2015D
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.jean-marc-bouley.com
Ian Symonds Clean bright scarlet colour. Very round enveloping fruit with a slight bitterness. Fresh with beautiful weight. The tannins are light but supple. 清澈的鮮紅色，圓潤的果香包含著輕輕的苦澀。酒體豐腴清新。單寧輕盈不重。
Domaine Chanson Beaune 1er Cru Beaune-Bastion 2oo9 87 2013
$368
2017A
Jebsen Fine Wines // 2923 8777 // www.vins-chanson.com
Hood Hon
Lovely gentle scents of forest fruits, berries, and flowers. More powerful on the palate than the nose, with a moderate to full body and structure. Slight mineral finish. 誘人的香味帶漿果、多種水果及花香。入口力度較強，酒體豐厚而結實。收結帶礦物香。
$355
Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune 1er Cru Beaune du Château 2oo8 87 2013
2015A
Summergate Ltd // 2545 4100 // www.bouchard-pereetfils.com
Vincent Yuen Touches of black cherries, raspberry, and cinnamon. Sweet berries with a touch of savouriness. Light body and good finish. 黑莓、覆盆子香，透著玉桂的味道。入口充滿鮮甜的漿果，酒體輕盈而收結良好
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Santenay
Santenay lies on the southernmost part of the Côte de Beaune, right along the border of the Côte Chalonnaise along with Savigny-Les-Beaune, and is a source of really good quality red wines at affordable prices. If you see one made by a producer you enjoy, don’t hesitate to try them out. These are early drinking but delicious wines. Santenay座落於Côte de Beaune的最南端，正正位於Côte Chalonnaise與Savigny-Les-Beaune的邊緣，亦是一塊生產優質、價廉物美紅酒的地方。 若果你有機會看到一款由你喜愛的酒莊所釀的Santenay，不要猶疑，品嘗一下吧！這些都是年輕時已經適合飲用的酒款！
$260
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Santenay 1er Cru La Comme 2oo9 90 2013
2020A
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.comte-truffiere.com
Ian Symonds Brilliant black-cherry colour, aromas of red fruit, violet, rose petals, and spice. The palate is firm, with a crisp acidity, sour fruits, spice, and liquorice finish of considerable length. 鮮明的黑莓色，帶紅果、紫羅蘭、玫瑰花瓣及香料的香味。入口結實，清爽的酸度，酸果，香 料、甘草的悠長收結。
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Maison Louis Jadot Santenay 1er Cru Clos de Malte 2oo9
$379
89 2013
2020A
ASC Fine Wines // 3923 6749 // www.louisjadot.com
Eddie Chui Nose of candies and flowers. Red fruit on the palate with a prominent display of berries, but there is balance between the acidity and fruit. Soft tannins. Textbook Burgundy! 糖果及鮮花香。入口以紅果等的莓味為主，但良好的酸度能平衡果味。單寧柔和。勃艮第的標 準作。
Saint-Aubin Domaine Henri Prudhon St.Aubin 1er Cru Rouge Gorges 2oo8 86 2013
2018A
$259
Globus Wine // 2926 8777 // www.henri-prudhon.fr
Ian Symonds Bright ruby with pale pink rims. Aromas of red fruits, even hints of blackcurrant. The palate has crisp acidity and fresh red fruits, with spice notes and a long finish of fruits and spice. 鮮明的紅寶石色，粉紅酒邊。香氣以紅果為主，帶著點黑加倫的香味。入口帶清爽的酸度及 新鮮的紅果，透出點香辛料，收結悠長帶果香及香料。
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Aloxe-Corton
Aloxe-Corton is one of the star Pinot Noir villages in the Côte de Beaune, and is often said to be stylistically capable of producing wines that are a cross of the (generally) more powerful and concentrated Côte de Nuits, and the (generally) softer and lighter Côte de Beaune Pinots. This is especially so for the wines along the hill of Corton, where three Grand Crus lie: Corton-Charlemagne, Charlemagne, and Corton. Aloxe-Corton是Côte de Beaune內其中一條星級Pinot Noir釀酒村莊，同時亦被認定為Côte de Nuits風格（較強烈而集中的味道）與Côte de Beaune 風格（較柔軟而輕盈）的混合風格。這種風格亦可以同時套用於Corton沿山的三個特級田中，Corton-Charlemagne、Charlemagne及Corton。
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Maison Louis Jadot Aloxe-Corton Grand Cru Corton Greves 2oo8
$481
90 2013
2022A
ASC Fine Wines // 3923 6749 // www.louisjadot.com
Vincent Yuen Toasty with hints of game. Savoury and mature with sour cherries and a leather finish. Good acidity and well made. The tannins are velvety at the moment and will soften in time, but good structure. A very good example of 2008. 香味帶烤烘的動物味。入口成熟帶肉香，收結有陣陣的櫻桃及皮革味。良好的酸度，單寧如絲 但會再變得纖細，卻有良好的結構。是2008年的代表作之一。
Maison Lupé-Cholet Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Fournieres 2oo8 87 2013
2017A
$450
Sino Vantage Asia Ltd. // 2581 9101 // www.lupecholet.com
Eddie Chui Light coloured but bright ruby colour. Sharply acidic, but the fruit lacks the ripeness to balance. Cherries and a slight earthy complexity, but not sure how much age will improve flavours. 淡麗而明亮的紅寶石色。酸度有點尖銳，而果香略欠平衡。帶櫻桃及泥土氣息，但不確定能 否隨陳年變得更好
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Savigny-Les-Beaune Domaine de Bellene Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Hauts Jarrons 2o1o
$270
90 2013
2016D
L’Imperatrice Fine Wines // 2537 3325 // www.domainedebellene.com
Hood Hon A bit rustic on the nose. Earthy forest floor and a lively acidity with a sharp attack. On the mid-palate there are more minerals and fruit. A touch short on the finish. 香味帶點野性，森林的氣息伴隨著生動的酸度。入口中段較多礦物及果香。收結較短。
Maison Louis Latour Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru 2o1o 88 2013
2016A
$470
Links Concept // 2802 2818 // www.louislatour.com
Don Kwok Perfumed and gamey with lots of red currant flavour. Good intensity and sharp acidity in a mild finish with hints of minerals. 帶香水般的動物香氣，透發著陣陣紅加倫子香。濃郁的果香帶高酸度，收結中等以礦物 味為主。
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Volnay
Although people often think that the best red Burgundy comes only from the Côte de Nuits, the Côte de Beaune has standout regions for long-lived red wine. Volnay is one of them, and produces some of the most elegant and smooth wines in all of Burgundy. At their best, they are ethereal and silky, with great lively fruit. 就算許多人都會認為最優質的勃艮第紅酒都是來自Côte de Nuits的時候，其實Côte de Beaune都擁有很多優秀的紅酒酒莊和葡萄田。Volnay便是其 一，它生產著一些非常優雅而柔軟的酒質，在酒質柔滑的同時，果味亦相常活潑而豐富。
Domaine du Chassorney Volnay 1er Cru Les Roncerets 2o1o 94 2013
2017D
$750
La Cabane Wine Cellar // 2517 0186 // www.chassorney.com
Vincent Yuen Incredibly fresh with a mix of ripe berries, cinnamon, and other rich spices on the nose. An intense, long, and round palate of red berries and cherries. A really great wine that is enjoyable now. 香味優秀，混和著成熟果味、玉桂及其他香料。入口悠長有力，充滿紅莓及櫻桃的果 香。非常適合現在享用。
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Domaine Poulleau Père & Fils Volnay 1er Cru 2o11
$598
90 2014
2020K
General Wine & Foods Co. Ltd // 2545 8604 // www.poulleau.com
Don Kwok Pale ruby red. Stalky, with green peppers, and a mild red fruit flavour. Good intensity and velvety tannins. Soft and mineral finish. 淺紅寶石色。帶枝梗及青椒味，只有中度的紅果香。單寧如絲絨般而口感豐厚。收結卻柔和帶 礦物香。
Domaine Lucien Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Les Angles 2oo8 89 2013
2016A
$480
Wellspring Wines // 2305 0582 // www.louislatour.com
Hood Hon Bright ruby red, ripe berries with floral notes. Quite timid on the attack with a subtle mid palate. But long and round finish. 明亮的紅寶石色。香氣充滿成熟的莓果及花香。含糊的口感，中等酒體。收結卻長而圓潤。
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Pommard
Where Volnay is soft and “feminine”, Pommard is powerful and “masculine”; long-lived and prestigious wines of great longevity and precision. Although it has no Grand Cru, several of the 1er Cru vineyards have long held claims to being of Grand Cru quality such as ‘Pézérolles’, ‘Clos des Epéneaux’ and ‘Les Rugien’. Often unapproachable at youth, great Pommard will really only justify their price with at least six years of aging in bottle. Volnay 的酒以柔軟和女性化著稱的同時， Pommard 的酒卻充滿陽剛味道，強烈而悠長。雖然不是位於特級田的酒款，但是有些一級田如 Pézérolles、Clos des Epéneaux、Les Rugien等都被公認為擁有特級田的質素，所釀的酒都能夠在年輕時飲用，一些偉大的Pommard更只會為已經 陳年至少六年的酒款標價錢。
Maison Nicolas Potel Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2oo8 92 2015
2020K
$790
Enoteca // 2526 9099 // www.nicolas-potel.fr
Ian Symonds Fresh tart cherry with great balance. This has beautiful flavour and ripe tannins with power and finesse. A great Pommard that can age. A long finish and the elements are integrated well. Complex and well made. 新鮮的烤焗櫻桃味，入口平衡。味道吸引，單寧成熟得細緻而豐厚。很有陳年潛力的 Pommard。收結悠長，複雜，各種味道融合良好。
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Mercurey Domaine Michel Voarick Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Paradis 2o1o
$440
90 2013
2018A
Grand Cru Cellar // 2478 7178 // www.domaine-michel-voarick.com
Eddie Chui The nose is a bit closed, but the firm body comes balanced with good acidity and intense fruit. Finishing is long with mild tannins. 香味帶點野性，森林的氣息伴隨著生動的酸度。入口中段較多礦物及果香。收結較短。
Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands 2o1o 90 2013
2019A
$225
etc wine shop // 2523 1945 // www.domaine-faiveley.com
Hood Hon Pronounced floral perfumed notes with a touch of spice, oak, and ample ripe red fruits. Great complexity. Supported by a reasonable fruit intensity. The backbone is structured with a long finish. 奔放的花香，帶點香料、橡木及大量的紅果。具良好的複雜性而又有充足的果香。結構 良好，收結悠長。
$390
Domaine Jean Marechal Mercurey 1er Cru Les Naugues 2oo9 89 2013
2016D
WAW // 3489 0068 //www.jeanmarechal.fr
Hood Hon Lovely ruby colour. Fresh scents on the palate of red berries, crisp acidity, some development on a long finish of spice and herbal notes. 迷人的紅寶石色。鮮明的紅莓香氣，清爽的酸度。悠長的收結帶點香料及草本的味道。
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Chambolle-Musigny
Two of the most esteemed vineyards in all of France are in Chambolle-Musigny, with their names referred to throughout the history of the Burgundy. The Grand Cru Le Musigny and Bonnes Mares hold 24 hectares of land in this great village, which produces Pinot Noir of finesse, elegance, and concentration. Some of the greatest 1er Cru vineyards here also have a very reasonable claim for elevation to Grand Cru status: wines from ‘Les Amoureuses’ are often more expensive than those of the two Chambolle-Musigny Grand Crus. Chambolle-Musigny是法國境內其中兩個最受注目的產酒區之一，它們的名字都可以在勃艮第悠久的歷史足跡中找尋得到。其中兩座位於特級田的酒 莊Le Musigny及Bonnes Mares擁有整片村莊土地的24公頃土地，生產著集中、優雅而細緻的Pinot Noir。 這個地區內的一級田中也有著許多與特級田媲美的酒款，如Les Amoureuses就是一款價格經常都會被標高於其他兩間位於特級田的酒莊。
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$650
Domaine Henri de Villamont ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 2oo9 91 2013
2020A
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.hdv.fr
Don Kwok Dark red fruit like prunes, plums, and dates in a garnet colour. Round and plummy with a velvety structure and elegant acidity. Long and nice finish. 深紅的果如西梅、梅子及棗香，加上圓潤的口感及如絲絨的結構及優雅的酸度。收結美味 悠長。
Domaine Bertheau Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2oo9 91 2013
2017A
$420
L’Imperatrice Fine Wines // 2537 3325
Eddie Chui To me this is young but lively. Good nose and intensity and the acidity really marks the energy of the wine. A bit toasty with a smooth and long finish, will improve. 這款酒仍然年輕，但鮮明。良好的香氣，加上充足的酸度，酒體有力。帶點烤烘的香 味，收結悠長而順滑，仍有改善空間。
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Vougeot The small village of Vougeot is dominated by the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot, which is the largest Grand Cru in the Côte de Nuits. As a result, don’t look at the words “Grand Cru”, and immediately think that the wines will be excellent. Stylistically, the wines from Vougeot are more muscular than lean, although usually the best Vougeot wines are earthy and rich, with a very gamey and dark set of fruit flavours. Vougeot的小村莊大部份土地都屬於特級田Clos de Vougeot的範圍內，這亦是Côte de Nuits最大的一片特級田。所以，不能夠只看著「特級田」這個 名詞來作定論。就言論而言，來自Vougeot的酒比較厚身而陽剛，然而通常最頂級的Vougeot都是屬於帶有濃重大地氣息和濃縮的酒，同時帶有一種帶 肉味和黑果味道的感覺。
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot 2oo9 92 2015
2018A
$1250
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.comte-truffiere.com
Vincent Yuen Well perfumed and sweet with a cloudy, almost jammy appearance. Tart red fruit with nutmeg, sweet cherries, and a really enjoyable aroma. Shows finesse and a great finish. 香氣如香水般突出，帶甜美，果醬般的混沌酒體。熟紅漿果帶豆蔻、甜櫻桃的果香。細 緻而收結完美。
$1150
Domaine Chanson Grand Cru Clos du Vougeot 2oo9 91 2015
2022K
Jebsen Fine Wines // 2924 8777 // www.vins-chanson.com
Ian Symonds Dark cherry with a woody, foresty complexity. Lush and very well made with balanced sweet fruit. The oak is integrated nicely and it is fresh on the palate with enough acidity. 黑櫻桃的果香，帶木香及森林的複雜氣息。帶豐厚而平衡的甜美果香。橡木香融合於酒體中， 口感鮮美，有充足的酸度
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Vosne-Romanée
Of all the villages in Burgundy, Vosne-Romanée is probably the most associated with greatness. The famed Romanée-Conti, Henri Jayer, and Leroy have their most famous holdings here, and even the mere mention of the Grand Cru vineyards of Richebourg, Romanée Saint-Vivant, and La Tâche will make a Burgundy fan’s heart stir. And even in the 1er Cru vineyards there is unbelievable quality. Fragrant, perfumed, yet tempered with structure, balance, and power—many see these wines as the epitome of Pinot Noir. But for sure there is a price to pay. 在勃艮第的眾村之中，Vosne-Romanée應該是最能夠與「偉大」一詞扯上關係的產酒區了。舉世聞名的Romanée-Conti、Henri Jayer和Leroy都在這 裡擁有他們的物業，而一些常被提及的特級田如Richebourg、Romanée Saint-Vivant和La Tâche 都令勃艮第的追隨者為之瘋狂。 即使這裡的一級田也有著驚人的質素。香氣、結構、平衡和力量都是Pinot Noir的縮影，亦有著其價值連城之處。
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$998
085
Jean Bouchard Vosne-Romanée Grand Cru Echezeaux 2oo8 94 2013
2020A
Edrington Hong Kong Ltd // 2831 7222
Hood Hon Bright pale ruby. Moderate intensity of berries together with a layer of sweet spices and new oak. Quite harmonious and balanced on the mid palate with a lingering and refreshing palate. 明亮的淡寶紅。中等的莓香，帶陣陣的香料及新橡木香。酒體融合得不錯，帶柔順而清新 的口感。
Domaine de La Truffière par Robert Comte Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 2oo9 93 2013
2020A
$1078
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.comte-truffiere.com
Ian Symonds Bright ruby colour and intense nose of ripe red fruits and spice. On the palate it is elegant, very well balanced, with firm tannins and a spice filled finish. 明亮的寶紅色。香味濃郁，帶成熟的紅果及香料味。口感優雅，非常平衡，帶緊緻的單寧， 收結帶多點香料味。
$1380
Maison Henri de Villamont Vosne-Romanée Grand Cru Grands-Échezeaux 2oo9 91 2015
2023K
Burgundy Wine Company Ltd // www.hdv.fr
Don Kwok Light red garnet. Mild red plums and ripe cherries with a good structure and plenty of minerals. Clean flavours and a sharp acidity lead to a tart finish. Will improve with time, but needs quite a while. Still young. 淺寶紅色。中等的紅梅及成熟櫻桃香，具良好的結構及充足的礦物香，酸度強，帶點烤香。仍 然年青，需要時間去變得更好。
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Nuits Saint Georges
Rustic and savoury, the red wines of Nuits-Saint-George are full of character and structure. This village gave its name to the sub-region of the Côte de Nuits, and fantastic wines are made all across the village. Though the wines are some of the most classic and standard amongst the Côte de Nuits reds, they are reliable and can occasionally reach great heights amongst the best producers. 簡樸而富礦物味，來自Nuits-Saint-George的紅酒有著其獨特的風格與結構。這條村莊以其產酒區Côte de Nuit的名字來命名，每家每戶都會自己釀 酒。這裡的酒莊之中有許多都是釀出經典紅酒的可信名莊，有些酒莊間中更會釀造出相當優質的酒款，足以躋身最佳酒莊之列！
$330
Domaine de L’Arlot Nuit-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Le Petit Arlot 2oo9 87 2013
2015D
Sarment // 2187 3297 // www.arlot.com
Vincent Yuen Toasty and oaky on the nose with dark berries and complexity. Powerful and rich with sweet spices, it could use some more acidity. Feels very ripe and concentrated. 香味帶烤烘及橡木香，伴隨黑櫻桃的複雜味道。強而有力，加上豐富的甜香料，欠缺一點 酸度。感覺成熟而豐郁。
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Gevrey-Chambertin
The small village of Vougeot is dominated by the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot, which is the largest Grand Cru in the Côte de Nuits. As a result, don’t look at the words “Grand Cru”, and immediately think that the wines will be excellent. Stylistically, the wines from Vougeot are more muscular than lean, although usually the best Vougeot wines are earthy and rich, with a very gamey and dark set of fruit flavours. Vougeot的小村莊大部份土地都屬於特級田Clos de Vougeot的範圍內，這亦是Côte de Nuits最大的一片特級田。所以，不能夠只看著「特級田」這個 名詞來作定論。就言論而言，來自Vougeot的酒比較厚身而陽剛，然而通常最頂級的Vougeot都是屬於帶有濃重大地氣息和濃縮的酒，同時帶有一種帶 肉味和黑果味道的感覺。
Maison Roche de Bellene Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru Charmes Chambertin 2oo9 93 2015
2023K
$723
L’Imperatrice Fine Wines // 2537 3325 // www.maisonrochedebellene.com
Ian Symonds Bright ruby, red berries and violets on the nose. The palate is balanced with good acidity, fine light tannins, but there is still great elegance and strength on the finish. Notes of sweet spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. 明亮的寶紅色，香氣帶紅莓及紫羅蘭。入口平衡，帶充足的酸度，單寧輕細，優雅中帶 力量的收結。當中帶甜香料如玉桂及豆蔻香。
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Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin 2o1o
$948
92 2015
2025K
The Wine House Limited // 3571 9566 // www.tortochot.com
Eddie Chui Quite closed on the nose with subtle ripe strawberries and hints of smoke and tobacco. Big structure and a powerful wine, but needs a lot more time to achieve better complexity. Still, all the elements of a great wine are here. 香味收斂，帶點點成熟的草莓、煙燻及煙華氣息。結構強大，有力。絕對需要更多時間去發 展。但感受到是偉大的酒款。
Domaine des Vroilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champonnets 2oo9 91 2013
2018A
$491
Corney & Barrow // 2537 3325 // www.domaine-varoilles.com
Don Kwok Powerful and succulent, this wine is ripe and mouthfilling with seductive fruit. The tart acidity brings great balance though, and the finish is long and intense. 豐厚多汁， 味道成熟而充滿誘人果香。充足的酸度能平衡酒體。收結悠長結實。
$598
Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques 2008 89 2014
2020K
The Wine House Limited // 3571 9566 // www.tortochot.com
Eddie Chui Dark cherries with sweet spices mark the aroma, and the wine is tart but very powerful with a good acidity to help balance the wine. Not the most elegant Gevrey, but there is plenty of structure here for development. 黑櫻桃帶甜香料的香味。果味豐盈，澎湃但有著良好的酸度去平衡。不是最優雅的Gevrey，但 是有著不錯的發展空間。
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Vintage Chart for reds 紅勃艮第年份概況
2011:
An inconsistent vintage that resulted in some superb wines from the best producers, but also some disappointing and thin wines elsewhere. The best Grand Cru wines will be ready in around 4-5 years, while the 1er Cru wines should be approachable from 2016-2025. 這是一個十分另類的年份，一些優秀的酒莊造出的酒相當不錯，但是有些酒卻未能盡如人意。當中最佳的特級田產酒大 約陳年四至五年便已經適合飲用，而一級田產的酒款則由2016年至2025年都適合飲用。
2010:
2010: Laurent Ponsot, the great winemaker of Domaine Ponsot, called this a “100% terroir” vintage, as low yields and difficult weather forced winemakers to struggle with their grapes. But those that succeeded made refined, well balanced, and exceptional wines. Another superb year. Laurent Ponsot作為Domaine Ponsot的偉大釀酒師，他稱2010為「100% terroir」的一年，低產量與極為反 覆的天氣令釀酒師們都非常頭痛。但成功的酒款當中大部份都有著精緻、平衡而獨特的酒質。一個極之偉大的年份。
2009:
This was an easy vintage to make according to almost all the winemakers we spoke to. The wines are lush and very well structured, and can be accessible from youth. Great wines came from every region, and the best will still need several years of aging, or at least 3 hours of decanting. One of the great years in Burgundy. 這是一個對釀酒師來說十分輕鬆的一年。這一年的酒產量豐盛而酒體結構都十分不錯，年輕時便已經適合飲用。各個產 酒區都有釀出不錯的好酒，然而亦需要多幾年時間作陳年，或者至少三個小時醒酒。這是勃艮第其中一個最佳的年份。
2008:
Well balanced wines that reflect the terroir well. Hit and miss with different wines, but the 1er Cru and Grand Cru were superb with great purity, acidity, and freshness. Can drink now, but will also last a decade. 酒質平衡，能夠很好地反映出當地terroir。反觀在部份個別酒莊都做得不錯、有些也有間中失手，但一級田與特級田 都有著良好的純淨度、酸度和清新度。適合現在飲用，但亦可陳年至少十年。
Other notable years from the last decade: 過去十年中其他不錯的年份： 2002, 2005
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The World of
Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we present you with part 2 of L’Imperatrice’s journey to Burgundy, some superb new wine coming out of the Rhône, and one of the greatest producers of Barolo in the past few decades. We then take a closer look at the wonders of Grüner Veltliner and Cantonese food. 每一期《釀‧生活》的The World of Wines，我們都會為你走訪來自世 界各地的酒莊，探索每一瓶葡萄酒、每一位辛勤的釀酒師、每一個成功 品牌背後的故事。今期將為大家續上期的勃艮第之旅，由母儀美酒帶我 們走進酒莊內、又會介紹來自意大利的Barolo及奧地利佳釀，試試以奧 地利酒配上亞洲菜。
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The Pursuit of
Terroir in the Cotes PartII 對Terroir的 完 美 追 求
1953 Leroy La Romanées stored and unmoved for 60 years 1953 Leroy La Romanées 自60年前已經座落於這裡
Vosne Romanée The Golden Cup – Gros Freres & Soeurs As part of the Gros family known throughout Vosne Romanée, Gros Freres & Soeurs are well established in the area. Bernard Gros has a nice underground cellar with different light effects and a piano for his own pleasure. As for the wine itself, the Vosne Romanée, Echezeaux, Clos de Vougeot and Grands Echezeaux are famous for their rich concentration and velvet character.
Often people express concerns over Bernard’s winemaking as they find the wines over-oaked. Well, this is no longer the case as what we tried was radically different from the past; Bernard is now keeping his wines in new
The underground cellar of Gros Freres & Soeurs Gros Freres & Soeurs的地下酒窖
oak barrels for 12 months only, instead of 24 months like many of the other producers. His objective is to have new oak as in his opinion this is where
Gros Freres & Soeurs－金色的佳釀
he can get the most of its flavors, but at the same time he also wants to
源於Gros家族，Gros Freres & Soeurs 今天在Vosne Romanée有著顯著的地
reduce the amount of ageing in the new oak to avoid excessive influence.
位。Bernard Gros有一個很好的地下酒窖，裡面有不同的燈光效果和鋼琴供
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Additionally, it helps him to renew his barrels every year and sell them away before the upcoming harvest to lesser quality estates who cannot afford brand new barrels. Nicole & Nathalie Lamarche – Domaine Lamarche Located in the heart of Vosnè Romanée, Domaine Lamarche can trace their history back to 1740, and they remain one of the most storied and prestigious estates in Burgundy. Throughout their history they’ve gone through some ups and downs, but have been definitely improving since the 90’s. With Nicole and Nathalie Lamarche taking charge of the domain after the retirement of their father Francois Lamarche in 2005, the wines have been getting even more impressive. For the utmost expression of Lamarche, one needs only to look at the estate’s iconic monopole: Grand Cru La Grande Rue, which is sandwiched between La Tache and Romanée Conti and yet still sells for less than $2,000/bottle as opposed to the astronomic prices of the wines from the neighbouring DRC vineyards. Since 2005, La Grande Rue has gone under a lot of changes such as a very wide replanting of the vineyard using only the best rootstocks existing in Burgundy, to adapting the vinification methods to suit the use of oak and the use of stems. But those who still think La Grande Rue is not worth buying should look at Allen Meadow’s most recent review that gave 95 Points to the 2010 (the first time ever for more than 50 vintages tasted by Allen). There is certainly a lot more to come… It is also interesting to note that the domaine has been using La Grande Rue Grand Cru for topping up all their other barrels of lesser appellations to
Domaine Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots 2005
achieve a better standard of their general wines. Who would think that in a generic Bourgogne there is some La Grande Rue!
他自娛。至於酒本身，Vosne Romanée，Echezeaux，Clos de Vougeot和
Grands Echezeaux 都以它們的豐富濃度和天鵝絨的特質聞名。 When we went, all the wines were under malolactic fermentation, but what really stood out besides the La Grande Rue was the 1er Cru Malconsorts
很多人都對 Bernard 的釀造方法表示關注，因為他們覺得 Bernard 釀的酒過
and 1er Cru Croix Rameau (an extremely small plot inside Romanée St
度使用橡木。不過這已成過去，我們剛試過他的酒，已經與之前截然不同
Vivant).
了。 Bernard現在只會把酒放在新橡木桶中 12個月，而不像大部分生產者放
24個月。他的目標是使用新橡木桶，因為他認為酒在那裡可以得到最多的口 味，而且同時可以減少酒在新橡木桶陳年的時間，從以避免過多的橡木風格。 此外，他還可以每年更新他的木桶，並在新一年收成之前把它們賣給那些買不 起全新橡木桶的質量較差的酒莊。
Nicole & Nathalie Lamarche – Domaine Lamarche 酒莊Domaine Lamarche坐落在Vosne Romanée的心臟地帶，它的歷史可以 追索到1740年，時至今日，他們仍然是勃艮第地區裡最歷史悠久和受尊敬的 酒莊之一。它在歷史裡經歷了一些高低起伏，但可以肯定的說它自 90年代以 來已經有所改善。自從Nicole和Nathalie Lamarche的父親Francois Lamarch 在2005年退休後，他們便開始執掌酒莊，所釀的酒亦變得更令人印象深刻。 要體現最極致的Lamarche，你只需要看看這酒莊的標誌性的單一持有土地： Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts 2006
Grand Cru La Grande Rue—它夾在La Tache和Romanée Conti之間，但每 瓶售價仍然低於$2,000，遠低於鄰近的DRC酒莊所索的天文數字價格。
Clos de Vougeot and Chambolle Musigny
自2005年以來，La Grande Rue已經起了很大的變化：例如勃艮第內最好的砧 木被廣泛地重新補種，以及改變葡萄酒釀造的方法（如使用橡木，莖等）。依
Walking northward from Vosne Romanée, we enter the largest appellation
然認為La Grande Rue不值得購買的人，應該看看Allen Meadows 最新的評
in Burgundy—Clos de Vougeot (50.6 hectares). Apart from its size and
論，他給予2010年的La Grande 95分，（這是嚐到超過50個年份的Allen有史
the various styles of the wines nurtured by the vineyards, its great historic
以來的第一次）。可以肯定，這樣高的評分還會陸續有來...
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The World of
Wines Grandson of Alain Hudelot, Charles Van Canneyt in the Hudelot Noellat Cellar Hudelot Noellat Cellar內Alain Hudelot的孫兒Charles Van Canneyt
profile (founded by Abbaye de Cluny on 12th century) always draws great attention. The finest wines are made here by Anne Gros, Meo Camuzet and Rene Engel. Its neighbor in the north, Chambolle Musigny, is famously described as “the queen of all Burgundy” and “an iron fist in a velvet glove” (where Vosne Romanée and Gevrey Chambertin would be the king). This elegant style results from the higher proportion of chalk and limestone in the soil. A Combination of Charm and Exuberance – Hudelot Noellat Domaine Hudelot Noellat had already been very successful during the “reign” of Alain Hudelot, but now his grandson Charles is in charge of the domaine and showing his strength in recent vintages by producing wines as beautiful as ever. The domaine is famous for
另一有趣和值得注意的是酒莊一直使用La Grand Rue Grand Cru來區別它與
its old vines, which produces wines of refinement and power when
其他較低的產區的一般葡萄酒的不同，以達到更好的標準。誰又會想到，在勃
aged. Outstanding examples are the Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les
艮第也會找到一些La Grand Rue！所有的酒都在Malo旗下，La Grande Rue
Murgers, Chambolle & Vosne Romanée village, Romanee St Vivant
以外真正脫穎而出的是1er Cru Maloconsorts 和1er Cru Croix Rameau （一
(2100bt/year) and Richebourg (1500bt/year).
片處於Romanée St Vivant 裡非常小的土地）。
Only a few estates are as blessed as Hudelot Noellat, having both
Clos de Vougeot與Chambolle Musigny
Richebourg and Romanée St Vivant in the same estate is a rarity—only
從Vosne Romanee向北走，我們進入勃艮第裡面積最大（50.6公頃）的產區
Leroy and DRC can claim likewise.
Clos de Vougeot。除了它的大小和風格各異的葡萄酒外，其偉大的歷史背景 （由 Abbaye de Cluny 於12世紀始建）亦常常吸引到注意。這裡最好的酒
The work that has recently been put in the vineyard is massive and can be
是由 Anne Gros, Meo Camuzet 和 Rene Engel 釀造的。Clos de Vougeot
shown in the amazing line of 2011’s wines we tried. As for the 2012s, the
北面的鄰居－Chambolle Musigny 以被形容為「勃艮第的女王」和「天鵝絨
quality is outstanding here and our biggest worry will be quantities as there
手套裡的鐵腕」而著名。（如果Vosne
are approximately 20-40% less than in 2011. What will Hudelot Noellat do
GEVREY是國王的話）。這種風格源於土壤中比例較高的白堊和石灰石。
Romanee和Gevrey Chambertin的
with only 1 barrel of Malconsorts instead of their regular 3 to 4 barrels per year? It is really an estate to watch in the future for sure.
結合魅力和熱情的 Hudelot Noellat
Domaine Hudelot Noellat在Alain Hudelot「統治」時已經是非常成功的，現 A wonderful surprise, “Une rencontre” with the most respected
在他的孫兒Charles掌管酒莊，最近幾年出產的葡萄酒一如以往美麗，顯示了
Madame – Lalou Bize Leroy from Domaine Leroy
他的實力。這酒莊以老葡萄樹，精緻的風格，以及其陳年後潛在的力度而聞 名。突出的例子是 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Chambolle &
We met this legendary lady at Domaine Leroy in Auxey Duresses, and it is
Vosne Romanée village, Romanée St Vivant （年產2100枝） 和 Richebourg
perhaps the most exciting place for any wine lover in the world…
（年產1500枝）。
First, a bit of history. Lalou was the co-manager of Domaine de la Romanee
只有少數的莊院像 Hudelot Noellat 般得天獨厚，罕有地在同一莊院裡有著
Conti (DRC) from 1974 to 1992 until the point that she actively focused
Richebourg和 Romanée St Vicant，只有Leroy和DRC才能與之比擬。
on her Domaine (founded in 1988), and her Maison (established in 1868). 從我們所品嘗的一系列 2011 年葡萄酒可以知道葡萄園近年投放了大量的改
We initially thought she would be quite “icy”, but that quickly vanished away
善工作。至於 2012 的酒，質量是優秀的，最大的擔心將是產量，因為相比
and transformed into a warm and bright attitude; she started to talk about
2011年，產量減少了約20％至40％。Hudelot
Noellat要怎樣處理只有1桶
her dogs and her current life before moving onto a conversation regarding
Malconsorts，而不是常規的每年3至4萬桶的情況呢？這絕對是一個在未來會
the Asian markets then onto the wines themselves. Lalou takes pride in
被注視的莊院。
both her Domaine & Maison, especially the latter one, which has a great line of history. The wines are only released after years of resting in their tremendous cellar.
一個美妙的驚喜：來自Domaine Leroy最受尊敬的 Lalou Bize Leroy夫人和 「Une rencontre」我們在Auxey Duresses裡的Domaine Leroy─也許是最 叫世界上任何葡萄酒愛好者興奮的地方與這個傳奇女子見面。Lalou 從1974
There are 9 giant sectors with millions of bottles remaining unmoved for more
到1992年任職Domaine de la Romanée Conti（DRC）的聯席經理，直至她
than 70 years. Two staff members work day and night just to ensure the
積極專注於她於1988年成立的酒莊和成立於1868年的Maison。
storage stability. You can therefore imagine the greatness of these cellars. This massive cellar contains some of the oldest bottles of Burgundy in the
隨著她開始談論她的狗、她目前的生活，然後對話轉移到亞洲市場，再談到
19th Century. We have seen some Musigny 1978 and more than 1000
葡萄酒本身，她的「冰冷」形象很快就消失了，取而代之的是溫暖和生氣勃
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Ms. Lalou Bize Leroy, owner of Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay and Mr Julien Froger, Director of L’Imperatrice Domaine Leroy及 Domaine d’Auvenay的莊主Ms. Lalou Bize Leroy與母儀美酒的總裁Mr. Julien Froger合照
bottles of La Romanée, and 1947 Chambertin’s etc…These bottles all share
勃的態度。拉露為她的 Domaine 和 Maison 感到驕傲，尤其是後者，因為它
a few things in common though: there is a high wine fill level and the corks are
有著偉大的歷史，而且所出產的葡萄酒只會在巨大酒窖裡陳年多年後才會發
all still original—credit goes to the exceptional quality of the wine cellar and
售。分成九個部分的幾百萬瓶酒在巨大酒窖裡沈睡超過70年，兩名工作人員
the source of corks—even before the era of Lalou Bize Leroy.
日以繼夜地工作，只是為了確保儲存的穩定性。由此你就可以想像這酒窖的 偉大。這巨型酒窖裡藏有一些19世紀裡最古老的勃艮第，我們見到一些1978
Our team had the luck to taste the 2012 Romanée St Vivant and Richebourg
年的Musigny、超過1000瓶的La
from the barrels and we believe this experience will rest in our memories
這些瓶子有一個相同之處：瓶裡的葡萄酒的量很多，而且用的依然是原本的
Romanée和1947年的Chambertins等。
for a lifetime!
軟木塞，這都歸功於酒窖和軟木塞非凡的質素—即使在 Lalou 接掌以前。 他們從來不記錄地窖裡的酒。我們的團隊擁有幸直接從桶裡品嚐到 2012 年
This was then followed by a vertical tasting of 19 wines from the Maison
的 Romanée St Vivant 和Richebourg，這將是我們畢生難忘的回憶！我們又
from the 1990’s to 2011, which are shown in the photo. The quality of these
品嚐了Maison 1990年代到2011年裡的19種酒。它們的質量是毫無疑問的。
wines speaks for themselves. Domaine d’Auvenay是另一個由Leroy 夫人100％持有的項目，在這裡她把 Domaine d’Auvenay is another project 100% owned by Madame Leroy,
Auxey-Duresses山上所釀的酒分別出來，另外釀造與不一樣風格的酒－例如非
where she vinifies the wines separately from her farm up in the hills
常令人印象深刻的Bonnes Mares、Puligny Montrachet、Meursault等。由於在
above Auxey-Duresses making very impressive Bonnes Mares, Puligny
2012年只有一桶的產量，Leroy夫人一直在打算把 Chevalier Montrachet Grand
Montrachet, Meursault etc. Leroy keeps thinking about declassifying the
Cru降級到村莊級。如果這成為事實，將是收藏家們的一大喜訊！
Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru to village level in 2012 due to having only one barrel in production this year, which would be great news for the collectors if this becomes the truth!
總括而言，勃艮第起初似乎是一個包容度很低的地區，只會接受Pinot Noir和
Chardonnay的主導地位。但在它的深處，它其實為生產者、葡萄園、土壤和 天氣提供了很大的自由度和自主權，好讓這些簡單的成分把葡萄品種的特性發
To conclude, Burgundy at first seems to be a region of low tolerance—where
揮到最大的程度。最重要的是，這些勃艮第有著至少一個共同的想法...
only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate. But deep inside, there is great freedom and autonomy due to the vineyards, soil, and weather conditions
他們對「terroir」堅信不移！
that the producers can utilize to make wines of varying performances. But most importantly, to these Burgundians, there is at least one thought in common: In terroir they believe!
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Enquiry: L’Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: 2850 5544 Website: www.imperatrice.com.hk
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A Caretaker in Ardèche Ardèche的 守 護 者
English Text & Images: Ian Wong // Translation: Sophie Siow
With his shoulders slightly hunched as if most of his time is spent craned
Côte du Rhône 區 Ardèche 省 Domaine du Grangeon 的莊主和釀酒
over the roots of his beloved vines, Christopher Reynouard, owner and
師－ Christopher Reynouard 因為長時間俯身去照料他珍而重之的葡
winemaker of Domaine du Grangeon in Ardèche of the Côte du Rhône
萄樹而微微拱起的肩膀，仿佛訴說著他並不太習慣身處香港這小小的城
seemed uncomfortable in a city the size of Hong Kong. And when he
市。他說話時的聲線輕柔得像在自言自語，仿佛他寧願研究在他的葡萄
spoke—softly and almost in a murmur—it was as if he weren’t entirely
園裡繁殖的蚯蚓，使他不完全習慣讓別人聽到他的聲音。
accustomed to people hearing his voice, perhaps preferring to examine the proliferation of earthworms in his vineyards.
有趣的是這並不只是一個玩笑： Christopher 確實致力地鼓勵他莊園裡 的蚯蚓繁殖和生長，並以此作為一種天然的鬆土方式。這獨特的鬆土過
Fascinatingly this isn’t a joke—Christopher encourages earthworm growth
程不但使空氣能注入土壤，從而幫助土壤裡氮的增長，而且不會帶來犁
in his vineyards as a natural form of tillage, the process where soil is loosened
地對土壤造成的同等破壞。 Christopher 提到，以前在他父親犁地後，
to aerate the land, encouraging nitrogen growth without damaging the soil
雨水把所有營養和土壤沖進河流裡，蚯蚓們會吃掉冬季時修剪的樹枝，
as severely as ploughing does (Christopher mentioned that when his father
然後一口一口地蠶食落在土壤的落葉和木，它們的排泄物隨後為土壤再
used to plough, the rains would wash all the nutrients and soil into the
次注入氮和生氣，成為一個周而復始的循環。
river). The earthworms also eat the pruned branches in the winter, nibbling first the fallen leaves, and then the wood. With their enriching waste, the
你也許會覺得他異於尋常，也可以認定他標誌著一個願意跳出既
earthworms return nitrogen and life to the soil, completing the circle.
有思維的完美主義者。Christopher所釀造的Viognier－ 種在隆
If this sounds mildly eccentric, or at the very least, the sign of a perfectionist
河谷區廣泛培植和富有濃郁香氣的白葡萄品種，無疑是獨特和大膽
willing to think outside the box, then consider it so. What Christopher does
的。 Christopher 說：「 Viognier 的味道從來比不上它的香氣。所以在
with his Viognier, a richly aromatic white varietal planted widely across the
收穫了一次之後，我做了一些實驗，並決定讓我釀造的 Viognier 與葡萄
Rhône, is unique and bold. “Viognier never tastes as good as it smells,”
皮有更多的接觸。」他讓葡萄皮混在酒裡 8 至 12 小時，好讓酒從中額外
said Christopher, “So after one harvest I did some experiments and
得到之前所欠缺的味覺上的重量。我們試飲了2011年的Viognier，經
decided to use more skin contact with my Viognier.” He lets the grape skins
過 100 ％的乳酸發酵和 60 ％的木桶發酵，它一方面有著經典 Viognier 具
rest for 8-12 hours with the wine, giving it the extra weight on the palate
備的豐郁和和諧，另一方面帶有其他 Viognier 所欠缺的辛辣的酸性。另
that he felt it previously lacked. When we tried his 2011 Viognier, which was
外，由於 Christoper 只使用舊橡木、香草和奶油的味道相對有限，但仍
done with 100% malolactic fermentation and 60% barrel fermentation, it
能帶來一個悠長而柔順的餘韻。
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had that the customary richness and harmonious nature of classic Viognier, but it also had a sharp acidity to give it a raciness that many wines made from Viognier lack. And as he uses old oak only, the vanilla and cream flavours were restrained, but still provided a long, supple finish. Christopher learned about Viognier when he apprenticed with George Vernay of Condrieu in the northern Rhône, the only appellation where the wines must be 100% Viognier. Vernay is one of the largest producers of Viognier in the appellation—and most certainly one of the greatest—but the Viognier of Domaine du Grangeon is strikingly different in a way that one can only applaud. After a university friend from the Jura region of France introduced Vin de Paille (a sweet wine made of raisins) to him, Christopher was determined to make his own, but solely out of Viognier. We tried the 2007 vintage of ‘Viognier Grains Passerile Blancs’, as it is called, and it was riveting. Semi-oxidized in the style of the Jura, it was delicious and complex with notes of orange blossom, apricots, peaches, while the nuttiness and yeastiness kept it interesting. With over 16 hectares of land all across the Rhône, Christopher produces 15 different types of wines and produces 80,000 to 100,000 bottles per year. All his vineyards are either organic, or in conversion to organic, which is made especially difficult due to how his vineyards are dotted around the region rather than all in one place. He also practices polyculture, the
C h r i s t o p h e r 是 在 G e o r g e Ve r n a y o f C o n d r i e u 唯 一 一 位 以 1 0 0
agricultural system where different crops are all grown in the same area.
％ V iognier 釀 酒 的 酒 區 當 學 徒 的 時 候 接 觸 到 V iognier 的 。 Ver nay 是 該
“Vines are like people,” he explained. “They need competition or they will
酒區裡最大的生產商之一，同時也肯定是其中一間最出色的生產商。
get lazy. Competition makes them longer and deeper, which will give more
不 過 ， Domaine du Grangeon 依 然 能 夠 釀 製 與 Ver nay 有 著 截 然 不 同
concentration to the grapes.”
風 格 卻 叫 人 讚 嘆 的 Viorgnier 。 透 過 一 位 來 自 法 國 Jura 區 的 大 學 朋 友 介
But his passion is clearly the grape Chatus, an indigenous varietal that is
此， Christopher 下定決心要單單以 Viognier 釀製自家的甜酒。我們品嘗了
紹，Christopher認識到Vin de Paille這種以葡萄乾製成的甜酒。自
rarely grown even in Ardèche, although there are small amounts of it made
稱為－ Viognier Grains Passerile Blancs的2007年甜酒，它無疑是動人
in Italy, where it is known as Nebbiolo di Dronero. It’s been a long obsession
的。使用了Jura酒區的半氧化風格，它可口而且帶有複雜的橙花，杏脯和桃
for Christopher, and he remembers the first time he vinified Chatus was in
子香氣，果仁和酵母味為它添上趣味。
1988 while still a student. He currently has 4 hectares of Chatus, and all the vines are over 120 years old and ungrafted. As a heavily tannic wine,
憑藉坐落在 Rhone 各地超過 16 公頃的土地， Christopher 每年生產 8 至 10 萬
this grape needs ripeness and great skill, and it appears Christopher is still
瓶多達15種不同類型的葡萄酒。他的所有葡萄園都在進行有機耕作，又或正
tackling the unwieldy varietal. We tried the 2011 and the 2009 Chatus,
在轉化為有機耕作。對於 Christopher 而言，這是特別困難的，因為他的葡
which was fermented in whole bunches with stems, but the flavours are still
萄園散佈在酒區各處，而並非聚集在同一地方。除此以外，他還實行混養：
very rustic and concentrated. It might take a long time and a great amount
一種在同一區域耕種不同農作物的農業系統。 Christopher 解釋說：「葡萄
of effort to master Chatus—but at least someone is trying.
樹和人一樣，它們需要競爭，否則他們將會偷懶。競爭使它們生長得更深更 長，從而長出更集中的葡萄。」 然而， Christopher 情有獨鍾的是一種即使在阿爾代什省也很少種植的土 著品種 Chatus 。在意大利 Chatus 又稱為 Nebbiolo di Dronero ，產量不 多。 Christopher 為 Chatus 著迷已久，時至今日， Christopher 依然記得他 是在 1988 年的學生時代初次釀製 Chatus 。在他目前擁有的 4 公頃 Chatus 裡，每一棵葡萄樹都已有120多年歷史，而且從沒進行接枝。由於Chatus是 一種單寧濃重的葡萄酒，它的葡萄需要很高的成熟度，亦需要釀酒師高超的 技巧。現階段 Christopher 似乎仍在努力馴服這難以駕馭的品種。我們品嘗 了2009和2011年份的Chatus：果汁在釀造過程中與與整束葡萄和葡萄梗一 同發酵，但口味還是非常質樸和集中。我們也許需要很長的時間和努力才能 掌握到釀造Chatus的技巧，但至少有人正在孜孜不倦地嘗試。
Enquiry: Cottage Vineyards International Ltd. // 2395 1293 // www.cottagevineyards.com
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&
Austrian Whites Asian Dishes
奧地利白酒與亞洲菜
Chinese Text: Joe Lo Translation: Sophie Siow Special Thanks:
The best thing about living in Hong Kong is that amazing food from all over the world is always just around the corner. As a coastal city, Hong Kong houses characteristic cuisines from many Southeast Asian and surrounding countries. Locals frequent Japanese and Thai restaurants, while genuine Vietnamese, Korean, and Indian cuisines can be found in restaurants all over Hong Kong. Each with its own allure, raw materials and culinary methods, these cuisines present a wide variety of dishes and, therefore, a conundrum for the wine enthusiasts among us. But if only one type of wine is to be selected to suit all of these cuisines, it would surely be the Grüner Veltliner from Austria. 身在香港，最大的福氣莫過於可以隨時品嘗得到來自世界各地的精采美食。 地處沿海位置的香港包攬許多東南亞及周邊國家的特色 菜，例如日本菜和泰國菜便是港人常吃的菜式之二；另外正宗的越南菜、韓國菜、印度菜也在香港隨處都可以找到。這些菜式各自 有其獨特的吸引力，亦有其特別的烹調手法和食材，款式實在是多不勝數。那麼，鍾情杯中物的酒客們豈不是傷透腦筋？如果要舉 出一款最百搭的葡萄酒，那一定非奧地利的Grüner Veltliner莫屬。
Grüner Veltliner is a major home-grown grape variety in Austria, and
作為奧地利最主要的原生葡萄品種，Grüner Veltliner在奧地利的下游地區和
is commonly found in vineyards across Lower Austria and Northern
Burgenland北部的葡萄園中尤其普遍，它的酒體豐厚而平衡、不失細緻，有穩
Burgenland. The wine’s body is full but balanced, its flavour layered and
定的酸度與集中力來抵禦口味濃重的食物如辣椒、香料和鮮味的海產等 。
its steady acidity and concentration sufficient to withstand strong foods such as chili, spices, and fresh seafood.
對於港人常吃的日本壽司、刺身和吞拿魚他他等清新鮮味的食物，一些年輕 的Grüner Veltliner便能夠配搭得宜。適合年輕飲用的Grüner Veltliner大多口感
Some young Grüner Veltliners are very good matches for fresh Japanese
柔軟而清爽、味道不太濃，而且在不銹鋼桶中熟成，令酒液不帶橡木味而顯得
food that we frequently have, including sushi, sashimi, and toro tartare.
更加清新，其輕微的酸性亦能夠更有效地帶出生魚片的鮮味與清爽。為此類
Grüner Veltliners that are intended to be drunk young usually have a
食物選擇配酒時，必須留意的是酒齡不能太老、酒精亦不能過高，大約13%
soft and fresh flavour. As they are fermented in stainless steel tanks,
酒精度左右便合適、酸度和果香淡淡的便不會搶去食物的味道。所以一些酸度
these wines do not bear the effects of oak. Their mild acidity can also
太過強烈或留有殘餘糖份的酒款如Riesling、或者擁有木桶香及酒體太厚重的
bring out the freshness of sashimi. In fact, wines that are younger and
Chardonnay等都不宜佐以生魚片同吃。
with lower alcohol (around 13%) are most suitable for this type of food, as their moderate acidity and fruity flavour would not overwhelm the
同樣清新的越式春卷內通常都會包著清爽的蝦肉、生菜和金不換等，口感清爽
taste of the food. Therefore, wines of stronger acidity or residual sugar
而又帶著香草的獨特香氣。一些帶著清新果香的年輕Grüner Veltliner會是不錯
level such as Riesling, or those with a rich barrel aroma and a heavy
的選擇，Grüner Veltliner當中帶著的些微酸爽更是帶出香草味道的主要原因。
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body such as Chardonnay, should not be paired with sashimi. Similarly, Vietnamese spring rolls, usually prepared with fresh shrimp, lettuce, and basil, taste fresh and carry the unique aroma of fragrant herbs. A young Grüner Veltliner with a brisk fruity flavour would suit these spring rolls well, as the wine’s slight acetic taste can bring out the flavour of herbs in the spring rolls. On the other hand, deep-fried spring rolls should be paired with white wines of a fuller body, such as Grüner Veltliner with a moderate sense of body, Sauvignon Blanc, Zierfandler, Weissburgunder, or a sweet Riesling. The key is to go for sufficient acidity to offset the grease from deep-frying. Hot and spicy dishes are a signature of Southeast Asian cuisine. Seafood prepared with chili and spices is a staple of the cuisine of coastal countries in Southeast Asia, and is deeply popular among foreigners. To counter the chili and spices used while at the same time maintain a balanced savour, Grüner Veltliner with a peppery and fruity flavour is an ideal choice. The wine’s higher level of acidity and minerals not only mixes well with the taste of spices and the freshness of seafood, but is also a good match for stronger sauces made of fermented black soybeans, garlic, or pepper. Complex Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc of a full body are also suitable for mitigating the sharp edge of chili. It is impossible to detail the pairing of wine with all Asian food in this limited space. But it is possible to say that Austria’s Grüner Veltliner possesses a quality, flavour, and bouquet that match unexpectedly well
另外，經過油炸的春卷則需要配上酒體稍為豐厚些少的白酒，如中度酒體的
with a lot of dishes from various Asian countries. With a little attention to
Grüner Veltliner、Sauvignon Blanc、Zierfandler、Weissburgunder或稍甜的
the seasoning and culinary methods of the cuisines of these countries,
Riesling都會配搭得很好，留意酸度要比較高才可以解除油炸的油膩感。
a range of combinations can be derived from Grüner Veltliners with the right level of acidity, alcohol, and fruit flavour.
東南亞菜色又怎少得辛辣的菜式？使用辣椒和香料同炒的蝦、蟹、魚等都是沿 海的東南亞國家常見、而又非常受外國人歡迎的菜式。要夠力與辣椒香料抗衡 同時又要擁有和諧的口感，一些帶胡椒和成熟果實風味的Grüner Veltliner便是 最佳的選擇，其稍高的酸度和礦物味不但可以融合香料的味道、同時帶出海產 的鮮味，而且一些濃味的醬汁如豆豉、蒜頭、胡椒等都能夠配合得很好。另外 一些味道較複雜多層次的Chardonnay和酒體較豐厚的Sauvignon Blanc亦可以 緩和辣椒的刺激感。 在有限的篇幅我們實在不能盡錄所有亞洲菜式的配搭技巧。奧地利不同的
Grüner Veltliner擁有的酒質、味道和香氣竟然剛巧與亞洲各國多種菜式出奇地 配合，只要多加留意食物醬汁和烹調方法；對應不同Grüner Veltliner所帶的酸 度、酒精度和果香等便可以作出千變萬化的配搭。
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A Barolo of Memory 那 些 年 的 ⋯ ⋯ Barolo
English Text & Images: Ian Wong Translation: Eddie Chui
When constantly in the company of wine lovers, one will quickly discover that there is an eternal, inevitable question that will never cease to be asked despite where one is in the world. The question involves “The Wine”, or to be specific, the first bottle that you fell in love with, and for regular consumers, the answers are often wide and varied—some started on Haut-Brion, while others were captivated by Yellowtail. 當你經常跟酒友相聚，摸著酒杯談笑風生的時候，總是會碰到同一個話題，就算是在世界不同的角落，跟不同的人一起喝酒時，都會提 到的。而這話題總是圍繞著「那瓶葡萄酒」，概括來說，就是第一瓶讓你深深愛上的葡萄酒。對於一般人來說，答案可以是很廣泛的， 有些人會在喝過Haut-Brion後難以忘懷，有些人卻會在被第一口的Yellotail深深吸引，就是那引領大家到無涯酒海的第一瓶。
For Roberto Voerzio, producer of some of the finest Barolo in the world (and
對於舉世聞名的Barolo釀造者（這樣稱謂一點也不誇張）Roberto
we say this safely without hyberbole), the wine that changed his life forever
來說，把他的一生改變過來的並不是他父親的葡萄酒，雖然那是在位於
Voerzio
wasn’t actually from his father’s estate in the revered Piedmontese village
Piedmont備受敬重的村莊La
Morra的酒莊所釀造的葡萄酒，而是一瓶1964
of La Morra, but instead a 1964 Barolo from a “Grand Cru” vineyard in the
年的所謂Grand
area that a schoolmate’s family had made. It was a revelation, and Roberto
的。Roberto告訴我們那是一次啟示：「只有在那次喝過那瓶葡萄酒後，我才
Cru葡萄園所釀造的Barolo，那是由他的同學的家族所釀造
told us that, “It was only then that I knew what Barolo tasted like.”
知道什麼是Barolo。」
If that moment seemed like an indictment of his own father’s wines,
如果認為是這次品酒後的啟發引起了Roberto對他父親的質疑，那更可能是一
perhaps it would serve as a foreshadowing of the events to come in
個先兆，取決了往後他人生路途中所發生的不同事件，影響了他的一生。到
Roberto’s own life. By 1986 the family estate had grown from 5 to 12
1986年，他的家族酒莊由五公頃擴展至十二公頃，但Roberto跟父親及兄弟
hectares, but the relationship between Roberto and his father and brother
的關係卻因為大家的理念不同而變得緊張。Roberto所持的是完美主義，而他
had become increasingly strained due to their differing philosophies in the
首先要求的是完全無農藥、有機及可持續的葡萄種植環境，有了這樣的葡萄
vineyard. Roberto desired perfection, and to him that first meant having a
園管理方針，才可以更進取去減少產量及讓葡萄熟成得更理想。除此之外，那
chemical-free, organic, and sustainable system of vineyards that could be
瓶1964年Barolo仍使他難以忘懷，他渴望的是那些神聖的特級葡園，例如La
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aggressively pruned to lower yields and promote riper grapes. And aside from that, the dream of that 1964 Barolo still haunted him—nothing less than land in the hallowed “Grand Crus” of Barolo—vineyards like La Serra, Brunate, Serepio, and Cerequio to name just a few—would satisfy him, and so when he parted paths with the family estate, his father bequeathed him with only two hectares of land: one hectare in La Serra, and one hectare in Barbera. From the very start of his own venture, Roberto set three goals. One was to acquire the best land in Piedmont (and since 1986 he has gone a long way towards that goal with “land in 7 out of the 9 vineyards I wanted”), while the second was to completely transform the way he would grow his vines. Traditionally in Piedmont, winegrowers plant 3000-5000 vines per hectare. “I planted 8,000,” explained Roberto, “forcing my vines to reach deeper into the earth, and drawing out more concentration and flavour in
Serra、Brunate、Serepio及Cerequio等 。因此，當他離開家族酒莊，自立門
each grape.” He also prunes three times starting from winter to mid-August
戶時父親只分給他兩公頃葡萄園，一公頃在La Serra，另一公頃在Barbera。
of each year, and harvests grapes only from the top bunches of each vine, where the grapes see the most rain and sunshine. “When I was younger,
在他展開自己的事業時，Roberto定立了三個目標。第一，他要找Piedmont
the hail would kill the plants and we would have some of the best wines,”
最好的葡萄園，由 1986 年起，他便一步步達到他的目標，那是從九塊他最
said Roberto, “So I thought I would do the same.”
想要的葡萄園中取得七塊。第二是完全改變葡萄種植的方法。傳統來說，在
A firm commitment to sustainable agriculture and organic farming was his
釋道：「這可以使葡萄的根往更深的，也能令每夥葡萄更濃郁，味道更好。」
third goal, and he produces wines solely with indigenous yeasts, saying
他每年由冬天到八月中也會造三次的葡萄修剪，而且他用來釀酒的葡萄，都只
“100 years ago winemakers only worked this way.” He also uses no sulphur
選整串葡萄的上半部，因為那是接觸最多陽光，也是最好的部份。關於種植葡
during the fermentation—only 17-18g/l when the official limit for organic
萄，他也說道：「當我年青的時候，霜雪是最影響葡萄生長的，所以現在我們
wines is 100g/l—and has not used any chemical fertilizer, weed-killer, or
都會做好預防的工夫。」
Piedmont，葡萄農每公頃約種植三千至五千棵葡萄藤。而他卻種八千，他解
fungicide since his estate was formed. He bottles his wines unfiltered to get every ounce of character in his wines.
他的第三個目標，就是對有機及可持續種植的堅守。因此他只會用原生在葡萄 上的酵母來釀酒，就好像百多年前的釀酒師一樣。他在發酵時也不會加入任何
We tried six wines of his including his top flagship Barbera Pozzo
硫磺，在灌瓶時使用的劑量也只有每升17-18克，比有機葡萄酒所規定的上限
Dell’Annunziata 2008 in magnum, his Barbera D’Alba Cerreto 2010, his
每升100克低得多。從開始時就完全沒有使用化肥、除草及殺菌劑等。他的酒
Barolo “La Serra” 2008, and his Barolo Fossati Case Nere 2003. His two
也不經過濾，以展現出原本的風味。
Barbera wines may be some of the greatest and most ambitious Barbera we have seen yet, and the extraction, concentration, and balance of these
我們品嚐了六款旗艦酒釀，包括Babera Pozzo Dell’Annunziata 2008雙瓶
wines are simply perfect. His “La Serra” 2008 is undoubtedly young, but
裝、Barbera D’Alba Cerreto 2010、Barolo “La Serra” 2008及Barolo Fossati
delightful in its weight and character—surely it will open up beautifully with
Case Nere 2003。他的兩款Barbera是我們所嚐過最好而最有野心的其中一
10-20 years of age. But it was his Fossati Case Nere 2003, stored in the
款，在濃度、深度及平衡上造得非常出色，接近完美。他的La Serra 2008不
winery cellar for 10 years and just released, which was simply stunning.
論在酒體結構及風味上仍然十分年青，她將會在十至二十年變得更美味。至於
Dream-like and lusciously complex and round with an absolutely pure
最印象深刻的是在酒莊陳年了十年才出售的Fossati Case Nere 2003， 實在極
expression of ripe Nebbiolo fruit, enjoy it now or throughout the next two
優秀。她那夢幻般優秀的複雜及圓潤的酒體，展現出成熟Nebbiolo那份絕對的
decades—this is winemaking at it’s finest.
魅力，在往後的數十年仍會非常美味，是釀酒的極致表現。
And how could we discuss a contemporary legend of Barolo without hearing his opinions on barrel usage? Thankfully, Roberto has a different opinion than simply ‘barrique good’ or ‘barrique bad’: 在談論當代風格的Barolo時，甚能不去探討一下酒桶的用法呢？Roberto另有一番不同的意見，不是單單的「小桶好」還是「小桶壞」？他說道： “25 years ago in Barolo there was a war about using traditional Slovenian large barrels or French barrique. Families broke up over this debate. But I’m not really for one or the other. I’m not really a modernist or a traditionalist. I respect tradition, without it we are nothing. But ever since I began in 1986 I’ve changed around 4-5 times between barrique and Slovenian, and never really put any importance on it. I simply couldn’t find much of a difference. From ‘89-‘95 I had a mix of both. From ‘91-‘95 there was bad weather and I had nothing to put into my big barrels so I sold them. Then from ‘96-‘07 I worked only with barrique, and from 2008 onwards I bought back the big barrels. Out of my 5 Barolo, 2 are aged only in barrique, but it is only because I have 10-12 hectares altogether of these wines—not even enough to fill my big barrels!” 「二十五年前有不少關於使用傳統的斯洛文尼亞大橡木桶或法國小橡木桶的爭論。我自己並不屬於現代派或是傳統派。沒有傳統便沒有今天，因此我尊重傳統。但在1986年後我先後試過 轉用不同的橡木桶，法國的還是斯洛文尼亞的都有，但不覺得有任何的不同。由89至95，我更加混合使用不同的桶。而由91至95，氣候並不理想，因此沒有使用大桶，同時賣掉它們。 而從96至07年，我只用細橡木桶，但2008起我又用回大木桶。在我的五款Barolo之中，有兩款只用小桶陳年，但這只是因為我那十至十二公頃我葡萄園，根本不能裝滿大桶。」
Enquiry: The Wine House Ltd. Email: info@thewinehouse.com.hk
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Crémant de Bourgogne
in
Rully的 勃 艮 第 氣 泡 酒
Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong // Images: Nicholas Siu
“
As far as ranking is concerned, Côte de Nuits is really the most famous among the many wine regions in Bourgogne. Its special classified plots and brand name vineyards are also the reasons attracting the visitors. However, Côte Chalonnaise, south of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, has its own wine with a unique taste and style. 如要排名的話，Côte de Nuits的確是勃艮第眾多旅遊酒區之中最著名的，其著名的特級田與名牌酒莊也是最吸引遊人前往的 原因，但原來在Côte de Nuits與Côte de Beaune以南的Côte Chalonnaise，也有著其風味獨特、別樹一幟的葡萄酒出品。
”
Bourgogne can be described as one of the most talked-about wine tourism
勃艮第產酒區可以說是最為愛酒之一津津樂道的一個葡萄酒旅遊點。由北至南
spots by wine lovers. From Dijon in the north to Mâcon in the south, the
的Dijon到Mâcon，沿路除了風光無限，許多聞名世界的產酒區也是座落於這
scenery along the way is spectacular. Many world famous wine regions, such
條路線之中，如著名的Côte de Nuits、Côte de Beaune和Chablis等，吸引
as the renowned Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Chablis, are located
著無數酒徒前往，一睹傳奇的法國酒區景色、感受著城市中缺乏的酒鄉風情，
along this route. Numerous wine lovers are attracted there to view the
最重要的當然是一嚐勃艮第的Pinot Noir醇美酒香。
legendary French wine territory and experience the sensation of wine country so lacking in cities. Most important of all, they want to taste Bourgogne’s mellow Pinot Noir. Readers who have paid attention to the last issue of Cru would have read the voyage article about the annual Saint Vincent Tournante. That’s right. The Saint Vincent Tournante this year was just held at Chalon sur Saône in Côte Chalonnaise. The place introduced here is one of the wine villages north of Chalon sur Saône called Rully. While it has no Grand Cru vineyards, Rully brews the sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne using the traditional Champagne method known as “le méthod traditionelle” in the village’s 23 1er Cru vineyards. Rully is a small wine village; yet it holds a position in the field
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The wooden riddling racks of Maison Picamelot where the wines ferment slowly. 以傳統木架架起酒瓶，正在進行瓶內發酵的Maison Louis Picamelot酒款
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of sparkling wines. The first sparkling wine called Fleur de Champagne was made by the Petiot brothers in Rully in 1826. Although Crémant de Bourgogne has today expanded to many neighbouring wine regions such as Chablisien, Châtillonnais, Côte de Nuits, Côte Beaune, Mâconnais and Beaujolais etc.，it is still mainly centred around Rully. Take for example the Bourgogne Mousseux Rouge Brut – Méthode Traditionelle and Vin Mousseux Blanc Brut – Méthode Traditionelle produced by vineyard Maison Vitteaut-Alberti, while they are brewed in the traditional Champagne method, the types of grapes they use are more unique than those in the Champagne region. They include Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but also Pinot Gris, Gamay, Algoté, Melon and Sacy. Each type of grape exhibits its unique flavor and taste in the wine. 有留意上一期《釀‧生活》的讀者應當會讀過一遍關於勃艮第一年一度聖文森 節的旅遊文章，沒錯，今年度剛過去的聖文森節便是在Côte Chalonnaise區內 的Chalon sur Saône舉行，而這裡要介紹的地方就是位於Chalon sur Saône 以北的其中一條釀酒村莊—Rully。Rully雖然沒有名氣強勁的列級葡萄田，但 在其23塊一級田中，釀造的卻是以傳統香檳方法（le méthod traditionelle） 釀製的勃艮等氣泡酒—Crémant de Bourgogne。Rully雖然只是一條小小的釀 酒村莊，可是在氣泡酒的領域中卻擁有不少的地位，1826年首瓶面世、稱為
Fleur de Champagne的氣泡酒便是由Petiot兄弟在Rully這裡釀製的。 今 日 的 勃 艮 第 氣 泡 酒 雖 然 已 擴 展 到 鄰 近 不 少 的 酒 區 如
Chablisien、Châtillonnais、Côte de Nuits、Côte Beaune、Mâconnais和 Beaujolais等，但主要仍然以Rully為中心。以酒莊Maison Vitteaut-Alberti所
The range of Maison Louis Picamelot wines Maison Louis Picamelot的一系列酒款
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The current winemaker showing the yeast sediment in his bottles Maison Louis Picamelot現任莊主正在展示瓶底的酵母沉澱物
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生產的兩款Bourgogne Mousseux Rouge Brut – Méthode Traditionelle及Vin
Mousseux Blanc Brut – Méthode Traditionelle為例，雖然以香檳方法釀製， 可是採用的葡萄品種卻比香檳區更多，包括Pinot Noir、Chardonnay、Pinot
Gris、Gamay、Aligoté、Melon和Sacy，每一個品種在酒中都各自發揮著其 獨特的味道與口感。
1926 年由創立的 Maison Louis Picamelot 在 Rully 迄立多年，創始人 Louis Picamelot便是在19世紀30年代第一批釀造Bourgogne Mousseux（Cremant de Bourgogne 前名） 的釀酒師， 至今已經傳 至第六代—曾 孫 Philippe Chautard的手中。今日的Maison Louis Picamelot仍然以全人手採收葡萄與 釀酒，而當中沿用的傳統香檳釀造方法，在裝瓶後才進行瓶內發酵，酒瓶底 部亦造得更闊大，令酵母與酒液的接觸更多，口感更複雜。其中一款 Cuvée
Jean-Baptiste Chautard Blanc de Blancs Brut由現任莊主Philippe Chautard 於2000年推出，以父親命名的這款酒擁有分明的酒體結構、細緻與複雜的果 味如梨子、杏桃與及雲呢拿等。
The bottlenecks are prepared for disgorgement. 把瓶頸放進器皿內準備急凍
Since 1926, Maison Louis Picamelot has been established in Rully. Founder Louis Picamelot was the first batch of wine makers in the 1830’s who produced Bourgogne Mousseux（the name used before Crémant de Bourgognede). The brand is now in the hands of Philippe Chautard, 6 generations down from the original Picamelot. Today, Maison Louis Picamelot still picks the grapes and makes the wine by hand, sticking to the traditional Champgne brewing method, which allows the wine to ferment after it is bottled. The base of the bottle is enlarged so that there will be more interaction between the yeast and the liquid for a more complex taste. In 2000, Philippe Chautard released Cuvée Jean-Baptiste Chautard Blanc de Blancs Brut, which was named after his father. This wine has a distinctive wine structure with delicate
The yeasts gather in a rose sparkling wine.
yet complex fruity tastes of pear, apricot and vanilla.
一款粉紅氣泡酒瓶內沉澱的酵母
Different Sparkling Wine in Burgundy 勃艮第氣泡酒分類 During the 1975 sparkling wine classification, sparkling wines are separated into the following four categories in Burgundy: 勃艮第氣泡酒的分類跟香檳區亦略有不同，1975年所訂立的地區名稱中亦同時劃分了四個不同的類別：
Le crémant de Bourgogne blanc
Le crémant de Bourgogne blanc de noirs
Minimum 30% Pinot Noir and/or Chardonnay
Made from only Pinot Noir
最少30% Pinot Noir及/或Chardonnay
只由Pinot Noir釀造
Le crémant de Bourgogne blanc de blancs
Le crémant de Bourgogne
Made from Chardonnay and Aligoté
Made from Pinot Noir alone or with a little Gamay
只由Chardonnay及Aligoté釀造
只由Pinot Noir單獨釀製、或加入少量的Gamay
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Travel Information 旅遊資訊： Maison Louis Picamelot Address 地址： 12. Place de la Croix Blanche – BP2 – 71150 Rully – France Tel 電話： +33 (0) 3 85 87 13 60 Website 電郵： www.louispicamelot.com
Maison Vitteaut - Alberti Address 地址： 16. Rue de la Buisserolle – 71150 Rully – France Tel 電話： +33 (0) 03 85 87 23 97 Website 電郵： www.vitteaut-alberti.fr
Maison Vitteaut-Albert welcomes visitors and wine lovers Maison Vitteaut-Alberti十分歡迎愛酒的遊人到訪
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Lebanon- Half page Cru Magazine- Apr.indd 1
Enquiry: Tel: 3695 2389 Website: www.gwc.com.hk
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Cru Leader
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Fathers
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Cru Leader
波爾多的父與子
Sons of Bordeaux
English Text: Brinda Bourhis // Translation: Sophie Siow
Bordeaux like many French wine regions is anchored in history and properties have been passed down from one generation to the next. Taking over from ones father who may have been a figure-head in the wine world can sometimes be a daring task for a young son building his career in wine. Today the challenge is also trying to keep the winery in the family faced with the administrative obstacles. Brinda Bourhis, CRU magazine’s French correspondent takes a look at different father and son profiles from Bordeaux. The report focuses on the contrasts and similarities between the two generations, on their way of running a wine business (sometimes still together) and their vision on the future of family-held estates in Bordeaux. 一如許多其他的法國葡萄酒產區，波爾多有著悠久的歷史，當地很多產業都是一代一代承傳下來的。對於一個正在葡萄酒界建立自己事業的年輕兒 子而言，從作為葡萄酒業界領導人物的父親手裡接管產業，有時可以是一個勇敢的任務。除此以外，他們今天還要面臨新的挑戰：克服一個個行政 障礙，盡力保留家族的酒莊。《釀．生活》的法國通訊記者Binda Bourhis採訪了波爾多的三對父子。這報道將聚焦於兩代人之間的異同、他們運 作（甚至一起共同運作）葡萄酒業務的方式，和他們對家族酒莊的展望。
Frédéric de Luze and Geoffrey de Luze
tax that is making it too difficult to pass over a chateau from one generation
The de Luze family has a rich history in the wine production and trade of
to the next, but they believe that money is not everything so will try to keep
Bordeaux wines. Château Paveil de Luze, Cru Bourgeois Margaux has
the estate in the family: ‘it is what we owe to the previous generations’
belonged to the same family since 1862 and is now managed by Frédéric de
ended Geoffrey de Luze.
Luze. Although his father Geoffrey de Luze retired in 2003, he is still attached to the property that he practically had to revive in the 1960s following the
Frédéric de Luze與Geoffrey de Luze
frost that devastated a majority of the vines. For his son Frédéric, his passion
De Luze家族在葡萄酒生產和波爾多葡萄酒貿易有著豐富的歷史。自1862年
for wine was natural as he grew up on the family property and observed
以來，Cru Bourgeois Margaux的Château Paveil de Luze和都屬於同一家
the vine’s cycle year in year out. ‘Don’t forget in those days there were no
族，現在正由Frédéric de Luze管理。雖然他的父親Geoffrey de Luze在2003
video games and internet, kids spent their free time outside in the garden
年已經退休了，他仍然是酒莊的一部分─在60年代霜凍摧毀了大部分的藤
and in our case in the vineyards, or helping out the workers in the cellar’
蔓後，他實實在在地復興了酒莊。對於兒子Frédéric而言，他對葡萄酒的激
says Geoffrey de Luze. Consequently, Frédéric’s integration in the wine
情是很自然的，因為他就在這家族莊院裡長大，長年累月觀察著葡萄的週
estate went smoothly and his father passed it over to him without constantly
期。Geoffrey de Luze說：「不要忘了在沒有電玩遊戲和互聯網的日子裡，
overlooking his work. Both father and son share many common points: they
孩子們都是在花園度過他們的空閒時間的，而在我們的情況下，葡萄園就是
believe in their wine Paveil de Luze and are constantly in search for quality,
我們的花園。他們還會幫助在地窖裡的工人。」最終Frédéric順利地和莊院
have an excellent sales vision with the ownership of a wine merchant that
融合，而他的父親也放心把莊園交給他。這兩父子有著許多共同點：他們都
has always gone hand in hand with wine production in the de Luze family
對他們的Paveil de Luze充滿信心、並不斷尋找質量；由於與一家與de Luze
for centuries. Their differences lie in their management styles: Geoffrey being
家族的葡萄酒生產業務合作無間的酒商有著密切聯繫，他們都有著優秀的銷
someone who delegates less and wants to have total control, whereas his
售遠見。他們的區別在於其管理風格：Geoffrey比較少讓旁人插手，並希望
son Frédéric has learnt to share tasks with his teams.
能有完全的控制，而他的兒子弗雷德里克則學會了與他的團隊分擔任務。
As for their favourite vintages of Paveil de Luze, again they reply differently
對於自己最喜愛的Paveil de Luze年份，他們也有著不同的答案。「這就像被
‘It’s like asking who your favourite child is, I love them all and it’s the same
問到你的孩子中你最喜歡誰，他們每一個我都愛，對於我的酒，答案是一樣
for my wines’ explains Geoffrey. Frédéric’s reply was ‘I am always quite
的」Geoffrey解釋說。Frédéric則回答說：「我一直都對我們的葡萄酒頗為挑
critical of our wines and the anxious side of me focuses on the defaults
剔，我顧慮小心的一面令我偏向注意酒的不足。不過，我還是覺得現在去喝
of the wine. That said, I do find the 2004 is nice to drink now.” Both were
2004年的酒是很好的。」問及兩人如果可以的話，他們會想在哪裡擁有自己
asked where else they would have liked to own a winery, for Geoffrey he
的酒廠，Geoffrey的回覆是St. Julien、Côte de Nuits或Condrieu。Frédéric
mentioned St Julien, Côte de Nuits or Condrieu. Frédéric would have quite
則說他會想自己的酒莊在 Rhône Valley （ Châteauneuf, Côte Rôtie ）或
liked somewhere in the Rhône Valley (Châteauneuf, Côte Rôtie) or Tuscany,
Tuscany，但只有在Paveil才能給他家的感覺。
but it’s at Paveil that he feels really at home. 至於未來，Frédéric不會把他的孩子推進家族葡萄酒業務，並希望他們能在
As for the future, Frédéric is not one to push his children into the family wine
各方面得到不同的經驗。然而父子二人都意識到，法國高昂的繼承稅使家族
business and is keen for them to gain experience elsewhere. However, both
傳承酒莊十分困難。但他們都相信金錢不是一切，所以會盡量把酒莊留在家
father and son are aware of the obstacles in France tied to high inheritance
族產業裡。「這是我們對前幾代家族成員負的責任」Geoffrey de Luze說。
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Cru Investments
En Primeur Investment (Part 1) 酒花投資指南（一）
Text & Images: Eddie Chui // Special Thanks: Dennis Lok , 柯偉文
Wyman Ke 柯偉文
Dennis Lok
Bordeaux En Primeur is always a focus in the wine world. Wine critics and
「波爾多酒花」每年都是全球焦點，在剛過去的四月，全球的酒評家、酒商都
merchants are coming to Bordeaux in passed April to taste the new wine
飛到波爾多聚首一堂，拜訪不同的酒莊試酒，也會了解當年的出品情況。近年
of 2012. People are starting to invest in en primeur, hoping to get some
有不少酒迷開始購買酒花，除了希望以最好的價格買下心儀的酒釀外，也可以
bargain prices for their beloved bottles and as an investment. In mainland it
作為一種保值的投資，在國內，這種風氣也越來越盛行，但仍有不少人對這不
is very hot subject but not much details are mentioned. In Hong Kong, we
太了解。在香港，有不少的酒商都有提供酒花預訂服務，對像也包括國內的客
have merchants that do the en primeur business who also serve mainland
人，但有不少人對酒花的運作一知半解，針對此我們跟從事酒花生意的駱先生
customers. We are pleased to have sharing from 2 of the insiders, Mr. Dennis
（Dennis）跟柯偉文先生（Wyman）作了個專訪，了解一下酒花的運作情況。
Lok and Wyman to tell us more about how it works. 「酒花運作中，最重要的必定是波爾多酒商（Négociant），全憑他們跟酒莊的
Dennis explains, “the most important party in the primeur business is the
密切關係，才能每年從不同的酒莊取得第一手的貨源，同時也使酒莊不必擔心
‘Négociant’, they help the châteaux to distribute and sell wines. They
銷售及分配的問題，可以專心釀出好酒。」Dennis解釋道。現在跟Dennis合作
have closed relationship and could get the first hand allocations from the
的酒商在波爾多是經營超過三代的家族，透過Place de Bordeaux形式在酒商之
châteaux.” The négociant now working with is in the primeur business for
間進行買賣葡萄酒，能以最好的價格取得酒花及舊年份的酒釀。而由這些酒商
three generations. They can get access to the en primeurs and back vintages
所發出的酒花證書，也是信心的保證。
among Bordeaux négociants through a system called “Place de Bordeaux” with the best prices. The en primeur certificates issued by them are the best
至於中國的酒迷，他們對酒花的買賣沒有認識，就算花得起錢也怕受騙，所以
guarantee for your purchase.
Dennis在國內的一位拍擋，柯先生的澎湃會便是向會員提供更多有關波爾多酒 花的資訊，也會不時舉辦不同的葡萄酒鑒賞會、投資講座，也會舉辦到不同國
In China, wine lovers learn about en primeur trade but are halted by fraud
家酒莊的參觀團，及到波爾多品嚐新酒的導賞團，讓會員更加了解波爾多葡萄
they heard. Wyman, partner of Dennis, organized a club where they provide
酒及酒花投資的運作。柯先生表示：「投資波爾多葡萄酒的回報，在過去的50
wine tastings, seminars on wine investments in order to let more people
年內，表現遠勝其他的投資工具，非常值得推薦給佛山的投資者，而Dennis是
know how to buy en primeurs and how it works. They also organize wine
當中的專家，認識不少著名酒莊的莊主及跟多個波爾多酒商長期合作，十分了
tours to different regions and tasting tour to Bordeaux during the primeurs for
解整個酒花買賣的運作。」
potential investors. Wyman explains, “I would recommend to our members in Foshan that en primeur has the highest return amongst other investments
我們下次會繼續再談波爾多酒花的投資問題及投資2012年酒花的概況。
in the past 50 years. Dennis knows and works with many château owners and Bordeaux negociants, managing the details in the en primeur business.” We will go through more of the 2012 en primeurs and other details in this
Enquiry: Club Peng Pai Tel: +86 (757) 6386 1961 www.clubpengpai.com
investment in the next issue.
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Cru Review
Camus celebrates 150 anniversary with Camus Cuvée 5.150 Camus 150週年隆重推出Camus Cuvée 5.150
Passing through five generations from 1863, the world-renowned cognac
歷史悠久的法國馳名干邑品牌 Camus今年踏入了 150 週年，在 1863年至今
label Camus celebrated its 150th anniversary by organizing media lunches
經歷五代總裁執掌，Camus日前在香港隆重舉行了一場傳媒午餐會及商貿晚
and business dinner parties in Hong Kong. The fifth generation of the family,
宴，由品牌第五代總裁Cyril Camus主持，帶領賓客細味Camus 150年來的傳
Cyril Camus leds us through this memorable ocassion after 150 years of
世歷史，同時品嘗最新推出的限量Camus Cuvée 5.150。
creation with the limited Camus Cuvée 5.150. Camus擁有悠久的歷史，今次的週年紀念活動亦選擇於一個充滿法國傳統氣 The prestigious Camus brand insisted on arranging a historic location for
息的宴會場地舉行。賓客在文華東方酒店的大堂由大會安排專車前往，在一
hosting the event. Guests were escorted from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
片讚嘆之聲下，眾人到達大會的神秘宴會場地—山頂普樂道8號的法國總領事
in Central to the destination, stopping at the 8 Pollock Path on the Peak
府邸。穿越一條神秘通道後，賓客在燭光的引領下來到大宅的露天庭園，在
to the magnificent Consulat Général de France Residence of Hong Kong.
悠揚的小提琴音下品嘗Camus特別調製的雞尾酒及於品酒檯處分別品嘗五種
While 2 violinists performed a stunning repertoire, guests enjoyed Camus
生命之水。
cognac cocktails and explored 5 different eaux de vie. 在文華東方酒店總廚Uwe Opocensky特別設計的五道菜及以Camus咖啡豆冲調的
Uwe Opocensky, the Executive Chef of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong
上等咖啡後，Camus品牌大使Sarah Liong便為大家打開載著Camus Cuvée 5.150
prepared five dishes before Sarah Liong, Brand Ambassador, presented the
的黑漆木盒，將Bacarrat玻璃瓶中散發著琥珀色光芒的陳年佳釀呈現於賓客眼前，
Camus Cuvée 5.150 from a refined black wooden box. Glowing in amber,
在品嘗這尊貴無比的陳年佳釀的同時訴說著Camus 150年的歷史。
the Baccarat glass bottle shimmered and shone, and guests could finally taste the prestigious cognac, along with its 150 years of heritage.
Cru Review_Camus Cuvee.indd 1
Enquiry: Camus La Grande Marque // Tel: 2831 1500 // www.camus-intl.com
26/4/13 7:28 PM
Do You Speak Wine? 法國酒鼻子 最歷史悠久的葡萄酒香氣品鑑權威！ A wine aroma tool makes you a professional！
助你成為葡萄酒氣味品鑑家！
Listen to the Wine Educators...... “A great tool for wine students - sharpens the sense of smell with appropriate aroma descriptors, enhancing the knowledge and appreciation of wine.” Jennie Mack, AIWS & FWS
Managing Director, Certified WSET, Bordeaux Wine School & A+ Australian Wine School Educator, Official Barossa Master, French Wine Scholar AWSEC
作為一種葡萄酒的學習工具，酒鼻子(Le Nez du Vin) 可以幫助學員提升識別各種香氣的能力及對葡 萄酒香氣的理解，一系列套裝是最有效提高品酒 能力的專業訓練工具。 Ronnie Chan, AIWS Senior Programme Manager, Wine Education The Hong Kong Management Association
''Le Nez du Vin is a very useful tool to assist our teaching. Novice or even experienced drinkers often find it difficult to identify a flavor without seeing the physical item and mixed with many other flavors. Le Nez du Vin help the students to get familiar with the smell without seeing and the distraction from other smells.'' Karl Lung, AIWS
Principal Lecturer, Certified WSET Educator Hong Kong Wine Academy
“What a magic tool for learning wine aromas!!! It helps to identify and recognize different aromas you can find in wines. Handy, portable and long lasting, suitable for learning wines in any levels.” Paul Yeung, AIWS
Program and Operation Manager, Wine Educator McCaine Wine Education (McWe)
酒鼻子內包含了葡萄酒中所有好的或壞的氣味， 經常用它來練習嗅覺， 對會令你更快晉身品 酒專家行列。 Peter Kwong 鄺英志
首席星級品酒師及課程總監, 世界排名最高華人品酒師 TSA Wine School 俊邦亞洲葡萄酒學院
Le Nez Du Vin is the official teaching tool for the following education centres
酒鼻子為下列教育機構指定教材 Asia Wine Service & Education Centre Tel : 2964 0188 Email : info@awsec.com
Hong Kong Wine Academy 香港葡萄酒教育中心 Tel : 2723 0399 Email : enquiry@hkwineacademy.com
The Hong Kong Management Association 香港管理專業協會 Tel: 2774 8596 Email: wine@hkma.org.hk
McCaine Wine Education (McWe) Tel: 2915 9312 Email: info@mcwine-edu.com
GDV-Ad.indd 1
Talent State Asia 俊邦亞洲 Tel: 2604 2046 Email: foursonk@talentstate.biz
For enquiry : info@thewinehouse.com.hk
26/04/2013 6:57 PM
The
CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels. In this issue we will introduce the grandeur of the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong, the tallest hotel in the world. Then we move on to two art events: first, the Le French May shows, and secondly local gallery HAJI’s exhibitions. Finally we mark off the success of Smith-HautLafitte’s En Primeur by taking a look at their collaboration with beauty brand Caudalié.
作為國際級的時尚之都，瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The Cru Lifestyle這裡，我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、 時尚 玩物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。今期將為大家介紹香港的麗斯卡爾頓酒店— 全世界最高的酒店大廈。然後我們又會看看法國五月藝術節及夏至畫廊，以及著名 酒莊Smith-Haut-Lafitte與Caudalié在美容方面的資訊。
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Hotel Life
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The Ritz Carlton Hong Kong : On Top of the World 香港麗思卡爾頓酒店: 世界之最 Chinese text: Jonathan Li // Translation: Eddie Chui
z The Ritz Carlton Hong Kong, opened only since March 2010, has reached a cult status among hotels of Hong Kong. There will continue to be new hotels, but it is difficult for any new opening to be able to enjoy the facilities of this new landmark among Hong Kong hotels. 香港麗思卡爾頓酒店也許是目前香港最In 的酒店，儘管新酒店一定會陸續開業，我想在香港很難再有新酒店可以取代它的優勢。
High up on 102 to 118 floors of Hong Kong’s tallest building, the Ritz
酒店鶴立於商廈的 102 至 118 層，裡面的 312 間客房都有景可觀，在天氣
Carlton is “The World’s Tallest Hotel” and as such it already has a great
良好的日子，居高臨下的景色非比尋常。這就是住在「世界最高酒店」的
selling point. All rooms have impeccable view on a clear day. It also has the
特別經驗。當然，酒店也擁有世界最高的泳池和水療中心。既是「世界之
world’s highest pool and Spa.
最」，當然是重要的賣點。
The visual effect of the innovative design of the hotel is stunning. The
幾乎足以令人產生視覺震蕩的是酒店的大膽裝潢，無論燈光的妙用或色彩
superb use of lighting and the contrast of colour effects, whether it is to
的對比都令人驚嘆！你可以不同意它的效果，但沒有人會否定裡面有很多
one’s liking, will make a memorable hotel experience after a stay.
最新的設計主意。這是特別適宜新潮人士的設計，也肯定適應年輕的一
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Hotel Life
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代。這種「一住難忘」的經驗，使酒店短期間就成了香港最貴但生意最興 隆的酒店之一：酒店是2011年3月底才開業的。 客房最小的都有50平米，總統客房大到365平米。客房裝潢華麗，有很多不 惜工本的設計細節。燈光設計極佳，窗簾都用電動開關控制， Wifi是最先進 的，DVD、iPod Dock什麼都有。浴室用品是最高檔的（Asprey）。這是世 上最豪華的客房之一。儘管餐廳和走廊七彩繽紛，可是客房的用色卻高貴典 雅。我住115層，落地大玻璃窗佔去全房的寬度，窗台鋪上軟包，可以坐在 百多層樓的邊緣看風景。 頂樓 118 層是巨大的健身室和泳池。泳池令我震驚，太漂亮了。蔚藍的主 色，天花由 144 塊液晶版投射出畫面，一邊是城市的實景。晚上看不到市 景時，一邊的大屏幕投射出香港的夜景。這是一個「無邊式」的大泳池 （Infinity Pool），另有泡衝浪的小池，有些設在室外。設計之妙非文字所能 形容。 這間酒店的賣點是它的餐廳和酒吧，除了「好吃」外，日本的設計似乎追求 的是簡直令人炫目的效果。118層的Ozone是最新潮的夜總會Disco。中餐廳 天龍軒和意餐廳Tosca，都有足足兩層高度的樓底。兩間餐廳都有一流的烹
Guest rooms are at least 50 square metre while the Presidential Suite
飪為後盾。天龍軒首年開業才四個月便拿了美芝連的一星，次年得了二星，
boosts of 365. Rooms are decorated to the highest level of luxury, with
將來也許三星。天龍軒的廚師劉秉雷是我最愛的香港粵菜廚師之一。
all technological innovations electronically controlled. It has everything you need with best wifi. Bathroom amenities are full-ranged, of Aspley
住 Ritz Carlton 最好應住其行政樓：這是住酒店的最高享受！香港這酒店的
supplies. Although the hotel is very colourful in public areas and restaurants,
Club Lounge設在116層，竟然是24小時開放的。麗思卡爾頓的會所服務勝
guestrooms are elegantly appointed with touchs of sophistication. I stayed
過任何酒店，因為沒有別的酒店集團能提供這樣不休息的服務，一天從早餐
on the 115 floor and I enjoyed great view through full floor level glass
起侍餐六次，包括別人沒有的午餐小吃。
windows that spread the whole room’s length. This view will linger long in my memory, probably for life!
酒店的很多細節，都是要入住了才能發現的，例如早上的報紙也派雙份，有 一天等電梯有美女送上巧克力，最令我簡直感動的是，在會所辦 Checkout
On the 118th floor are the huge gyms and an incredible “infinite” swimming
後他們給我一張摺卡，打開一看是員工的團體照，附一封早日再見的手寫
pool, blue themed. One swims above the city whereas at night the ceiling
信……這樣大的酒店卻能這樣「無微不至」，才是令客人回頭的主因。
made up of 144 LCD’s projects a closeup view of Hong Kong by night. It must be seen to believe. One strong selling point is the hotel’s restaurants. Ozone is a most innovative night spot, while the Chinese restaurant Tin Lung Heen has achieved Michelin 2-star status barely less than 2 years after opening. Chef Lau is a real master and my favourite chef of Hong Kong and it is here that one enjoys the best Cantonese food on earth impeccably served. The Club Level service opened 24 hours even with lunch is another highlight. When I checked out I receive a small envelope and inside there is a folded card of a group photo of all Club staff, all signed and there is a note by hand of appreciation looking forward to my return. Surely I will: Ritz Carlton Hong Kong is now on top of my favourite Hong Kong addresses.
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Le French May 2013 Programmes 法國五月藝術節精采節錄 Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Heusen Yip
Le French May is a familiar name to many. In fact, the festival is like a spring in the desert for us who live in this busy city. From traditional arts to contemporary arts, including visual arts, drama, music, dance, cinema, opera and etc., Le French May, organized by the Consulate General of France in collaboration with the Alliance Francaise, aims to share the best of the elegant and unique French culture through its series of exciting programmes. The festival allows those in the metropolitan city to take a break from their hectic life to appreciate arts and history. 法國五月藝術節相信大家並不陌生，在每天忙碌的城市中裡，法國五月 藝術節可謂都市生活中的一注清泉。由傳統到當代的各個不同藝術層 面、包括視角藝術、話劇、音樂、舞蹈、電影、歌劇等，由法國駐香港 及澳門總領事館及香港法國文化協會合辦的法國五月藝術節都會精選一 系列的精彩節目，展現法國優秀而獨特的文化，讓生活在繁忙都市中的 可以停下急促的腳步，欣賞藝術、品味歷史。
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Napoleon and the Decorative Arts, Tresures of the Imperial Palaces Last year, the 20th Edition of Le French May featured the largestever Picasso exhibition- the “Picasso- Materpieces from Musee National Picasso, Paris” exhibition in Hong Kong, and it was well-
華麗裝飾—拿破侖宮廷藝術展
received by the public. This year, the spotlight of the festival again
去年的法國五月藝術節二十周年重點節目「巴黎國立畢加索藝術館
falls on an outstanding exhibition showcasing rare and historical
珍品展」相信令不少人回味至今，而今年度的焦點亦落在擁有珍貴
treasures-- the “Napoleon and the Decorative Arts, Treasures of
歷史價值的「華麗裝飾—拿破侖宮廷藝術展」上。
the Imperial Palaces” exhibition. Napoleon I is truly a legendary ruler in French history. Started as an
法國傳奇帝王拿破侖一世由籍籍無名的炮兵少校憑著出眾過人的軍
artillery officer, Napoleon Bonaparte rose to prominence through
事智慧，在無數的戰役中取得勝利，更在1804年登基成為法蘭西皇
his military success, and eventually became the First Emperor of
帝。他在歐洲大陸上徵用大批頂尖的藝術家、設計師、建築師，為
France in 1804. After becoming the Emperor of France, he hired
他的法蘭西王國打造具有古希臘羅馬和埃及文化特色的宮殿，象徵
many of the top artists, designers and architects to build for
權力、和榮譽。
himself palaces after the Ancient Romanesque and Egyptian style to signify the power and glory of his kingdom.
是次於澳門美術博物館舉辦的重點展覽「華麗裝飾—拿破侖宮廷藝
The “Napoleon and the Decorative Arts, Treasures of the Imperial
術展」中所展出的宮廷家具便是拿破侖最輝煌的時期中、皇家宮殿
Palaces” exhibition held at the Macau Museum of Art is a highlight
內象徵帝皇榮譽與皇室權力的裝飾擺設，如傢具、掛毯、擺鐘、燭
of this year’s Le May French programme. The exhibition presents
臺和吊燈等，當中不少都從未於法國境外展出過。而整個展覽的焦
over a hundred pieces of royal furniture, such as tapestry,
點更是法國參議院商特別為展覽而借出以及首次公開的拿破侖寶
clock, candelabra and chandelier during the most glorious
座；還有拿破侖出征打扙時使用過的便攜傢俱與帳蓬等，可謂美術
period of Napoleon I’s regime. Many of the pieces showcased
與裝飾藝術史上最豪華顯貴的風格氣派之一。
in the exhibition have never been displayed outside France. The highlight of the exhibition is definitely the Imperial Throne of Napoleon I which is on loan for this occasion from the French Senate and exhibited worldwide for the first time. Also to be noted are the furniture and tents that Napoleon I had used during his military campaigns. The pieces exhibited demonstrate the most sumptuous and magnificent style in the history of decorative arts.
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Napoleon and the Decorative Arts, Tresures of the Imperial Palaces Date: 18 April (Thur) to 14 July (Sun) Venue: Macao Museum of Art Ticket: MOP$5 (Audlt), MOP$2 (Student) 華麗裝飾—拿破侖宮廷藝術展 日期：4月18日（星期四）至7月14日（星期日） 地點：澳門美術博物館 票價：澳門幣$5（成人），澳門幣$2（學生）
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Splendour of the French Table, Heritage and Modernity of tableware Throughout the Centuries Date: 1 May (Wed) to 9 June (Sun) Venue: Element, Kowloon 華麗裝飾—拿破侖宮廷藝術展 日期：5月1日（星期三）至6月9日（星期日） 地點：九龍圓方
Splendour of the French Table, Heritage and Modernity of tableware Throughout the Centuries The French royal palaces in history are all magnificent and elegant. Today, many modern designs are still based on the design of the French royal palaces. Apart from the Napoleon I and his imperial furniture, Louis XIV, who built the luxurious
法國餐具的光彩—跨世紀法國文化遺產與現代餐具藝術
Palace of Versailles, and the tableware from his time are also
法國歷史上記載的皇室宮廷都是金壁輝煌、極盡奢華、優雅而充滿貴
featured in this year’s Le May French programme. Indeed, after
氣，多年後的今天，仍然有許多的當代設計以法國宮廷為藍本。除了拿
Louis XIV established the Service à la Française, the French
破侖全盛時期的皇室傢俱外，還有以興建奢華極致的凡爾塞宮而聞名的
tableware history had experienced some very important growth
路易十四，自他制定了法式餐飲後，法國的餐桌文化經歷著其最重要的
and development along with the French culinary history.
時期與發展，餐桌上除了精緻美食和香醇美酒外，其餐具亦非常講究。
Exquisite tableware was made to complement the elegant food and wine.
今年度的法國五月藝術節其中一個最精彩的視覺藝術展覽 —「法國餐具
In the “Splendour of the French Table, Heritage and Modernity
的光彩—跨世紀法國文化遺產與現代餐具藝術」中，展現了十八世紀路
of
tableware Throughout the Centuries” exhibition, various
易十四時期出自著名塞夫爾製造商的當代工藝以及豪門大宅搜集得來的
works created by the Sèvres Royal Manufacture in Louis XIV’s
古者水晶玻璃、瓷器、銀器餐具等，實在難得一見。除了精緻奢華的工
time and other historical pieces of crystal, porcelain and from
藝技術外，展覽亦闡釋了跨世紀的法國歷史餐具的美術風格，展現出法
the 18th century will be displayed. Apart from showing the
國皇室的奢華與生活藝術。
extraordinary craftsmanship, the exhibition will also illustrate the development of French tableware and decorative arts through the centuries, displaying the extravagant lifestyle of the French royalties.
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A
rt and Culture at HAJI
文化與藝術在HAJI Text: Mini 夏至 Images: michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team Hair ( Mini ): Pius Yiu, Jim Ho, Sonn Lam @ Orient4.com.hk
Art is everywhere! During the Spring Blossoms, HAJI Gallery presents art from industrial designs to Macau’s photography to up and coming local artists. 藝術無處不在。在春回的日子，由工業大廈的設計藝術到澳門逃離現實相展到香港新血攝影都在 HAJI Gallery。
EASY 依時
HAJI Gallery presents “Days of Being” by EASY-Pack featuring 13
把一幢依時工業大廈的小社區十三個創作單位放進 HAJI Gallery ， HAJI
units from the small design community representing more than 13
Gallery 舉辦〈依時〉群展，見證工廈與設計文化和藝術生活的演變。十三
different design cultures. The exhibition is presenting the creative
位在觀塘的依時工業大廈，創造了一個集中設計和藝術的小社區。 今次合
talents who work in this EASY-Pack Industrial Building. We are
作展覽以〈依時〉，「⋯⋯依着時間來演變」為題,
promoting the idea of a small design community as a platform of
間轉化作一個簡單的序.
與此同時亦為是次空
exchange. We strongly believe in a new concept or era of research based on information exchange and discussion of ideas.
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“HEXIT” 逃離現實
TCH (at the centre of the photo) is always looking for his own
TCH （圖中）從來都尋找一個屬於自己生活的地方。透過逃離現實為題
personal space to live. He is also finding a space to escape the
的相和畫展，讓藝術熱愛者可以在一個展覽中經歷由「紅」轉「藍」的精
reality. This photography and painting exhibition is about the craving
神狀態。「紅」代表他曾在生活中吸收過量錯誤資訊而不自覺追求物慾，
for freedom. The show is a documentary of his spiritual life changing
「藍」是食素後找到心靈的滿足。為紀念瑞士化學家 Albert Hofmann 著
from the state of “Red” into “Blue”. In the remembrance of Albert
名的《 Bicycle Day 》，展覽於 4 月 19 日舉行， TCH 更邀請來自日本的友
Hofmaan’s famous “Bicycle Day”, the exhibition of “HEXIT” begins
人 Hibiki (圖左) 響 (京都民族樂) 來港設立 Asalato Workshop ，希望於
on 19th April. TCH invites his Japanese Guest Hibiki (at the right
展覽中透過視覺以外而感受到聽覺以內的共識。
hand side of the photo) to echo his art in music.
Who’s the next big name? 誰是下一個攝影大師
Dicky Manana is a rising star in the local photography scene.
Dicky Manana 是一個土生仔。他喜愛攝影中強烈的顏色對比，充滿浪漫
Dicky’s most compelling quality is the ability to colour his images
幻想的世界。未畢業已是一位攝影自由工作者的 Dicky ，以他的鏡頭表達
with strong elements of romanticism, fantasy and a hint of darkness.
消失了的本土文化和價值，在他的相片中，或可透現香港的未來。攝影展
“I like to capture the disappearing local cultures, themes that relate
五月在 HAJI Gallery 舉行 (香港上環樂古道12-14號地下)。
to urban and city development…” Through his lenses, we may find the future of Hong Kong. Exhibition starts in May, 2013 at HAJI Gallery. (G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong) HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011
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Beauty Life
葡萄護膚 Wine as a Skincare Treatment
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對於法國波爾多Pessac-Léognan 地區的著名酒莊Château Smith Haut
Lafitte 相信大家也不會陌生，酒莊結合傳統釀酒以及現代釀酒技術，以馬匹 耕作，提升生物多樣性之餘亦運用堆肥及人手採收，造出反映當地葡萄園特 色的優雅酒款。但原來由Florence
Cathiard 和丈夫共同擁有的Château
Smith Haut Lafitte 不但釀造出品質卓越的葡萄酒，她的兩位女兒Mathilde Thomas 和Alice Tourbier 亦從家族葡萄園為根源，發展以葡萄為構思靈感 的事業。 紅葡萄酒一向是女士們的美顏恩物，因為葡萄中含有大量抗氧化劑，能夠產 生自由基來保護細胞和器官免受氧化，令肌膚保持美白亮澤。Florence 的長 女Mathilde Thomas 在1995 年時便創立了以家族葡萄園構思而成的法國護 膚品牌Caudalíe ，經過17年研發，更成為首個獲得葡萄籽萃取葡萄多酚抑制 自由基活動以達抗氧化成效之專利。Caudalíe 亦貫徹整個葡萄護膚的概念， 產品中加入由葡萄藤汁液隔離出高濃度的淡斑亮白份子— V i n i f e r i n e 葡萄 藤萃取物、及葡萄藤莖提取的抗衰老活性成份—白藜蘆醇（Reservatrol-
The name of Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte from the Pessac-Leognan region of Bordeaux should not be unfamiliar to many. As one of the most famous chateaux in the region, Smith Haut Lafitte produces wines that reflect the characteristics of the region by combining traditional
winemaking
methods
with
modern
winemaking
technologies. Although Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, which is jointly owned by Florence Cathiard and her husband, produces outstanding wines, the daughters of the owner, Mathilde Thomas and Alice Tourbier, did not stop at just producing wine. They developed a new career from the heritage of the family vineyard. The health benefits of drinking red wine have been well known to
oleyl ），以葡萄中天然的美顏效能發揮到極致。 除了極具天然護膚效能的 C a u d a l í e 護膚品牌， F l o r e n c e 的幼女 A l i c e
To u r b i e r 則管理位於風景優美葡萄園中央、 1 9 9 9 年開業的五星級酒店 L e s S o u r c e s d e C a u d a l í e 及首家波爾多水療中心 V i n o t h é r a p i e Spa 。Vinothérapie Spa 座落於洋溢法國南部風情的酒店中，其美容療程 的理念構思與Caudalíe 一樣，結合葡萄酒及葡萄精華及使用來自地下540 米 的天然溫泉水，提供葡萄為主題的療程，包括紅酒磨砂護理、新鮮葡萄磨砂按 摩、葡萄酒渣橡木桶浸浴及蜂蜜葡萄酒敷療等。 對葡萄護膚、又或者對女士打理的酒莊葡萄酒有興趣的話，除了波爾多
Péssac-Leognan 地區的Château Smith Haut Lafitte 外，亦可試試來 自St. Estèphe 地區的Phelan Segur 、香檳區的Pierre Moncuit 、與及有 勃艮第皇后之稱的Lalou Bize-Leroy 所打理的Leroy 葡萄酒系列。
the ladies. Grapes contain a lot of antioxidants that can produce free radicals to protect the cells and organs from oxidization and to keep the skin glowing. The elder daughter of Florence, Mathilde Thomas, got the idea from the family vineyard and created the skincare product brand, Caudalie, in 1995. After 17 years of research and development, she was granted the first patent on extracting red wine polyphenols from grapes seeds to suppress the movement of free radicals to achieve antioxidization. Caudalie also implements the whole concept of wine skincare by adding Viniferine, a highly concentrated substance from the grapevine sap which is a natural molecule against dark spots, and Reservatrololeyl, an anti-aging substance from the grapevine sap, in its products. More Information: Château Smith Haut Lafitte – www.smith-haut-lafitte.com Caudalíe Paris – www.caudlie.com Les Sources de Caudalíe 及Vinothérapie® Spa – www.sources-caudalie.com
Enter the lottery to win a trip to Les Sources de Caudalie when buying $2,888 worth of Smith Haut Lafitte wine at etc wine shops! The prize includes a two-night stay in a deluxe double room at the 5-star Les Sources de Caudalie with breakfast. Apart from touring the chateau and wine tasting, each visitor can enjoy a VIP treatment, including Caudalie Ritual Treatment, Vinexpert Facial Treatment and Caudalie Signature Massage, to make the whole wine tasting journey most relaxing and enjoyable. 現凡於etc wine shops斟‧酌購買Smith Haut Lafitte葡萄酒滿港幣2,888元更可立即參加抽獎，贏取Les Sources de Caudalíe五星級酒店尊貴雙人套房兩晚住宿連早餐。在參觀酒莊 及品嘗葡萄酒之餘，每位入住更可享有貴賓護理乙次，包括Caudalíe Ritual美容療程、Vinexpert面部美容療程及Caudalíe招牌按摩，令整個品酒之旅更添舒適與悠閒。
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Champagne JosĂŠ Dhondt Mes Vielles Vignes2007 100% Chardonnay Vinification: Traditional vinification and bottling at the property The 2007 vintage is very fresh, tasty and complex
22/F, China Hong Kong Tower, 8-12 Hennessy Road, Wan Chaim Hong Kong
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Zeitgeist [tsīt-ˌgīst, ˈzīt-], the general intellectual, moral, and cultural climate of an era. Loft [ˈlȯft], an upper room or floor. When combined, it became an intellectual and innovative wine boutique, specializing in the finest and rare California cult wines. Our philosophy is to share our passion with the most unique experiences to the people who love wine.
Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場
JW Marriott Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensay, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場 Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, KLN 旺角上海街555號 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 5 Connaught Road, Central, HK 中環干諾道中5號 Regal Hong Kong Hotel 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店 Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Tower 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道20號 The Mira 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號 W Hong Kong 1 Austin Road West, KLN 西九龍柯士甸道西1號
The Landmark Mandarin Oriental 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 The Excelsior Hong Kong 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道281號 The City View 23 Waterloo Road, KLN 九龍窩打老道23號 The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, KLN 九龍柯士甸道西環球貿易廣場 Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 5/F, Harbour City, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀海港城5樓 Hotel LKF 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, HK 中環蘭桂芳雲咸街33號 Hotel Panorama 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀赫德道8號A
Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號
Hong Kong Skycity Marriott Hotel 1 Sky City Road East, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau, HK 新界大嶼山天城東路1號
Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN 九龍尖沙咀東麼地道70號
Novotel Hong Kong Century 238 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔謝菲道238號
The Peninsula Hong Kong Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍尖沙咀梳士巴利道
Renaissance Hotel 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號
Regal Kowloon Hotel 71 Mody Road, TST, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道71號 Conrad Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, HK 金鐘皇后大道88號太古廣場 Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 1 Castle Peak Road, Gold Coast, HK 香港青山道1號 Chinese Recreation Club, Hong Kong (CRC) 123 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 大坑銅鑼灣道123號 Kowloon Cricket Club 10 Cox’s Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 覺士道10號九龍木球會 Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Kellett Island, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣奇力島 The American Club 48-49/F, Exchange Square Two, Central, HK 中環交易廣場第二座48-49樓 The China Club 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Central, HK 中環德輔道中2A中國銀行大廈13樓-14樓 The Hong Kong Golf Club 19 Island Road, Deep Water Bay, HK 深水灣香島道19號
Bars & Restaurants agnes b. Café Shop 1 & 2A, Fashion Walk, 2-4 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣京士頓街2-4號1-2A舖
The News Room is an all-day dining concept serving contemporary comfort food in a stylish, relaxed setting. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and weekend brunch, The News Room also features a bar with selfservice wine dispensers, allowing guests to try a variety of international wines to complement their dining experience. Address: 33 Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: 2562 3444 Website: www.thenewsroom.hk
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Occupying a prime position in Central’s iconic Pedder Building, burgundy etc follows the thematic model set by bordeaux etc and champagne etc and focuses mainly on premium wines from its namesake region. With nearly 400 labels in store and access to 1,300 references in stock, burgundy etc boasts Hong Kong’s largest retail selection of Burgundy wines. Such a wide selection ensures both Burgundyloving beginners and discerning drinkers can find a quality wine to their liking.The comprehensive product range includes affordable everyday wines from boutique producers, to limited-production and rare labels from top estates, such as Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Henri Jayer, Leroy and Faiveley. Address: Shop 404, 4/F, Pedder Building, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2812 2009 Website: www.etcwineshops.com
Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號舖 Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下
Chezles Copains French Restaurant G/F, 117 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, NT 西貢白沙灣 117 號地下 Cuisine Cuisine 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號The Mira 3樓 DG Café and Wine Cellar Limited 2 Creasy Road, Jardine’s Lookout, HK 銅鑼灣渣甸山祈禮士道2號地下 Domani Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場4樓平台 Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Centre, Wanchai, HK 灣仔金紫荊廣場 Elite Concepts – 1/5 nuevo G/F, 9 Star Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔星街9號地下 Elite Concepts – cinecittà 2/F, Cosmo Hotel, Mongkok, 88 Tai Kok Tsui Road, KLN 旺角大角咀道88號麗悅酒店2樓 Finds 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀金巴利道39號帝樂文娜公館1樓 FoFo by el Willy 20/F, M88, 2-8 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街2-8號M88 20樓 G Bar Shop 4009, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4009舖
Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2, LKF Tower, 37 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街37號蘭桂坊酒店2樓 H One Shop 4008, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4008舖 Habibi Room 3323, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Hoi Pong Road, Aberdeen, HK 香港仔田灣海旁道7號興偉中心3233號 Harbour City – BLT Burger 301, L3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場3樓301號舖
Indochine 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊德己立街21號4樓 Intercontinental Hong Kong – Steak House Steak House, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號, STEAK HOUSE Island Tang Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場222舖 Jimmy’s Kitchen C & C1, G/F, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀亞厘士道29號九龍大廈地下C及C1舖
Harbour City – BLT Steak 62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下62號舖
Juliette’s Wine Bar Shop B, G/F & 1/F, Kin Wah House, 176-178 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 天后銅鑼灣道176-178號1樓及地下B舖
Harbour City – HABITU Ristorante 63-63A, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下63及63A號舖
Jumbo Kingdom Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 香港仔黃竹坑深灣碼頭徑
Harbour City – The Quarterdeck Kowloon 531, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下531號舖
Kee Club 6/F, 32 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街32號6樓
Hip Holiday 7/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街63號巴力大廈7樓
L’atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道西15號置地廣場401舖
Home Bar & Lounge 23/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣軒尼詩道525號恆和鑽石大廈23樓
Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓
Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓
Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓
Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience.
Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk
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Jasons . Food & Living is a boutique supermarket where food meets style. Here, foodies will relish a unique range of foods, confectioneries, spirits and kitchenware from around the world – many of which are Jasons exclusives. A grand Food Hall is on hand to please the palate, as well as a Mannings Health and Beauty to complete any shopping list. With staff that is uncommonly passionate about food and designer décor, Jasons is truly the destination of choice for the city’s food lovers.
Tel: 2776 1090 Address: B2/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Email: info@jasons.com.hk Website: www.jasons.com.hk Facebook: www.facebook.com/jasons.foodandliving
Madison (HK) Room 1204, 12/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心12樓1204室
Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418
The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號
French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓
Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓
Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖
The French Window Shop 3101-07, 3/F, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101-07號
Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓
NanHai No.1 (eyebar) 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場30樓
Sevva 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Causeway Bay, HK 中環遮打道10號太子大廈25樓
O³ 5/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing, Island East, Quarry Bay, HK 太古城道18號太古城中心5樓 North Carolina Grill Restaurant & Bar 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower7樓 Oyster Cube Restaurant Shop C1, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 9-23 Shell Street, North Point, HK 北角蜆殼街9-23號秀明中心地下C1舖 Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restsurant Shop 313, 3/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀河內道18號K11, 3樓313舖 Pata Negra House Shop E, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 1 Second Street, Hong Kong 西環西營盤第二街1-11號東祥大廈地下 Red (pure) 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 中環港景街8號國際金融中心商場二期4樓
St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖
The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓
Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖
Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室
Sal Curioso is located on 2nd floor, 32 Wynhdam Street, entrance on Glenealy Street. The menu of Sal Curioso is inspired by a social style of dining and reflects the flavours of the great sharing food culutures of the world such as Spain, Italy and South America. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner 7 days from 12 noon - 3pm for lunch and 6 pm for dinner. Lunch is a favorite with the unlimited tapas offering for $220 per head, perfect for Sunday afternoons with a nice bottle of wine from the select list by Nellie Ming Lee, consultant sommelier of the group. Address: 2nd Floor, 32 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2537 7555 Website: www.curioso.com.hk
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Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室 Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖 Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號 Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下 Collezione Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室
Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座 Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號 Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓 Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室 Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室 La Cave Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室 Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓 Maxscene Wineshop Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 54 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong
M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室 Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖
Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室
Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室
Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號
Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下
Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪
Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室 Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪
voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下
Ground Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街3號地下
Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖
Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪
Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖
We’re all about relaxed, simple food. Italian trattorias, English pubs, and traditional French bistros are what inspire us. From cider steamed mussels to tender roast chicken, we’ve put our own spin on a few bistro favourites. Our philosophy celebrates rustic, comfort cooking, and we’ve created a diverse menu that highlights local ingredients as well as specialty imports. Unwind with a glass of red at our happy hour and try the tapas selection that changes daily. Lounge in our sun-drenched dining room with apple crumble and coffee. Or tuck into an 8oz. New Zealand Ribeye and shamelessly savor every bite. Whether you’re craving a big brunch or fancy a few nibbles, we make food that just feels good. Address : G/F, 87-89 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Tel : 2815 9000 Website : www.societi.com.hk
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Cru magazine special subscription offer Dynasty Medium Dry White Wine Muscat is a grape variety that was already known to the Romans who called it “apianae” in reference to its honey smell in the vineyard that attracted bees. Its nose is
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Remarks: · Payment method: Cheque payable to Cru Media Limited · Please mail the subscription form and cheque to us at : 22/F & 23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, HK · Delivery: by courier to business address only. · Subscription enquiry: Tel: 3568 9100 Fax: 3568 9101 E-mail: subscription@cru-magazine.com
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il Pollenza 2007
Porpora 2008
PiusIX Mastai 2008
Cosmino 2004
Gold - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Bronze - Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Silver（90 points) - Rubis Award Top 100
Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Award 2012 Silver - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Gamberro Rosso 2glasses
Bronze - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Bronze （89 points) -Rubis Award Top 100 Wines In China Evaluation
Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Duemilavini 3Grappoli Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2011 Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012
Wines In China Evaluation 2011
Duemilavini 4Grappoli
2011 Duemilavini 5Grappoli
Angera 2011
Didi 2011
Duende 2010
Brianello 2010
Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2012 Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Seal of Approval - AWC Vienna 2012
Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Silver - AWC Vienna 2012
Bronze Award Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011
Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012 Gamberro 1glassRosso Duemilavini 3Grappoli
Exclusive Distributor Asia 總代理 : Three Bond Hong Kong Co., Ltd. www.threebond.com.hk
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Kimberly Wines & Cigars Shop
2721 5211
G/F, Shop A, Carson Maison, 61 Kimberley Rd, TST
www.kimberleywineshop.com
96 Boham/ The Wine Shop
2972 7888
G/F, 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK
www.96bonham.com.hk
ABC Wines Limited
2380 6883
No.22, G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road TST
www.abcwines.com.hk
2380 6670
G01, Manhattan Mid Town, 1 Po Lun Street Mei Foo KLN
1/3/13 4:14 PM
professional
wine cellars in hong kong
• Wholly owned by a listed company • Hong Kong RFID Award 2010 Logistics Management System • The most advanced climate control systems, anti-vibration System • Chubb Security System • Comprehensive Insurance Policy • Exclusive VIP Locker for private collcetion • Secondary wine sales on behalf of menber • Flexible Storage Plan • Nearby Shatin Racing Course
For Enquiry, please call 歡迎致電
082_Collezione.indd 1
2947 8333
•上市公司全資擁有公司 •採用榮獲2010年RFID獎物流管理系統 •最專業溫度濕度系統及防震設施 •集寶保安監測系統 •全面保險保障 •為會員提供私人珍藏保險箱 •為會員提供葡萄酒寄賣服 •靈活的儲存計劃 •鄰近沙田馬場
or visit our website 或瀏覽
www.collezione.com.hk 08/10/2012 8:54 PM