Dances, Spirit Houses & Rites: Enduring Cultures of the Pacific Isles

Dancers, Solomon Islands.

By Tom Ritchie

TOM RITCHIE is a professional naturalist and expedition leader who has worked with Lindblad Expeditions since the pioneering days of LarsEric Lindblad. Growing up near the Everglades allowed him to spend his youth exploring the swamps, marshes, forests, and reef systems of South Florida, a perfect training ground. Benefit from Tom’s expertise in these islands on two upcoming expeditions: Under the Southern Cross: New Zealand to Melanesia (page 92) and Rites & Relics: From the Solomon Islands to Fiji (page 93). Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic is returning to the islands of the South Pacific. We think we are familiar with the cultural aspects of the people who live here from what we have seen on television and in films—primarily centred in just two island groups in Polynesia: the Hawaiian Islands and the Society Islands, both of which have had long associations with westerners— missionaries, whalers, traders, colonisers, and international tourists.

However, there are many other islands throughout the South Seas with which most of us are not familiar—particularly in the regions known as Melanesia and Micronesia, as well as the more remote Polynesian islands.

These islands have a mild climate throughout the year. Much of their food comes from trees that require little, if any, maintenance, and can be enjoyed throughout the year. Fish from the local waters, domesticated pigs and chickens, and a few crops, such as taro, yams, sweet potatoes, and manioc, make up additional staples. The forests supply building materials for traditional thatched house construction. Therefore, conditions afford people plenty of time for artistic and social pursuits—gathering around a bonfire on the shore, eating and drinking, telling stories, laughing, and of course, it usually includes singing and dancing.

Traditional firewalkers, Beqa.

Rom dance, Vanuatu.

Some of the cultural features we expect to see include the secretive Rom dance that is unique to Ambryn Island, Vanuatu, which is performed by men wearing incredible masks and elaborate fullbody outfits that represent spirits. In the Solomon Islands, we’ll learn about the snake and turtle clans on Owaraha and visit their revered spirit house. On the Fijian island of Beqa (pronounced em-beng’ a), we will observe the traditional firewalkers who pad barefoot on searing boulders in a sacred fire pit. In Wallis and Futuna, an island group in Polynesia, we will be welcomed with a fierce warrior dance performance and shown a historic “cannibal oven” that dates to the period before 19th-century Christian missionaries converted the inhabitants. On the Micronesian island of Guam, we will learn of the interesting Chamorro culture, which is a blending of Micronesian, American, European, Asian, and Spanish heritages. Tanna Island has an active volcano known as Mount Yasur, which continuously belches smoke and ejects molten Mount Yasur rocks high into the sky. This makes for an amazing site for rowdy and energetic dances with wild chanting and masses of people jumping in unison with grass skirts and pounding sticks. These are just a few of the amazing cultural properties we expect to experience. And because we will be on an expedition, there will be many fascinating facets we don’t expect!

PACIFIC ISLES

Volcanic peaks rise dramatically from turquoise lagoons and steep cliffs drop straight to deserted beaches. An astonishing array of marine life inhabits clear, warm water: 20 species of whales and dolphins, 5 metre manta rays, green sea turtles, and vast schools of tropical fish dart around multicoloured galaxies of healthy corals. Dine on a private motu; float in a hidden cave; spot an ultramarine lorikeet on a rainforest hike or a fairy tern while kayaking in a secluded cove. Find your perfect paradise in the iconic landscapes of jagged green peaks, pristine beaches, and the bluest of blue waters, continuing the legacy of explorers, writers, and artists like James Cook, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Paul Gauguin. Idyllic surroundings are a given but what many find surprising is how much these islands are steeped in history and culture. Through meeting welcoming locals and seeing dance performances, thousand-year-old petroglyphs, an eight-foot moss-covered tiki, sacred sites called marae, and Easter Island’s iconic moai, we learn about this region’s proud history and cultures.