9 minute read
Casablanca and Rick’s
Let’s start with a history lesson. What country first recognized the USA? Hint: it was in 1777. Second question: What is the longest unbroken friendship treaty the USA has? Hint: it was signed in 1786. Answer to both is Morocco.
When you think of Morocco what do you envision? Camels, the mysterious Tangier, Berber pirates, an exotic land, or maybe Rick’s Café in Casablanca. It is all of that and more — well, except for the pirates.
Advertisement
As SoulMates slipped her lines in Aqua Dulce and headed south, we looked at each other, and Chuck said, “We got good wind, and if we turn now, we can be in Israel in four to five days.” We both looked longingly to the east but continued south, sad to leave the Mediterranean after seven great sailing seasons. But new ports of call awaited, so with full sails, SoulMates headed south for an overnight to Melilla, Morocco. First you need to know that Melilla is one of a few Spanish enclaves on the Moroccan coast. Why? Well, that we won’t go into. But it is very Spanish, and when we arrived on Sunday everything was closed. Leaving the marina, the first thing the crew saw was the landing platform for UFOs. The next day was spent exploring the city and encountered something we often found in various city squares — a fishing boat with boat names and dates on its base. Fishing is one of the most dangerous occupations around; we have seen tiny fishing boats heading out when we wouldn’t, and seen them on the water and admired their courage. As we walked around, we said a silent prayer for all fishermen. We wanted to go inland and visited several tourist offices only to be turned away. Finally one introduced us to a guide via telephone, and we made arrangements to meet a guide in Al Hoceima. Sailing up and around, we arrived in Al Hoceima just as the fishing fleet was headed out. Chuck proceeded to play dodge-a-boat in the narrow passage into the harbor. In contrast to what the cruising guide promised, we found a brand-new marina with great dockage and efficient officials who very quickly checked us in. Then it was time to explore the city — and guess what I found? My favorite: a fresh market! Soon SoulMates was stocked
with fresh fruits and veggies. At a streetside café, we met with a guide that would take us 100 miles south through the Atlas Mountains to Fes, the crossroads of the ancient Trans-Saharan trade route and Morocco’s second-largest city. With arrangements made, it was time to head back to check on SoulMates. Twenty nautical miles from Al Hoceima it sounded like something hit the bottom of SoulMates, and she slowed down. In calmer conditions I would have jumped into the water to look, but the seas were not conducive to that. So, with the engine on low RPMs, we limped in. Once tied up, I jumped in and saw the prop wrapped up. I went to the marina office and asked about a diver, and within minutes one arrived. After a bit of work, he stacked a large amount of plastic that had wrapped around the prop. While in Moroccan waters, we had seen a lot of plastic that seemed to be coming from Europe. SoulMates is trying hard to go with as little plastic as possible. As for water bottles – nope, hayir, la, oxi, het. You should be too. No water bottles on board. Fes is an incredible city with the largest medina in the world. Inside the walls of this distinctly historical section of the city live one million people. Now, we have seen and navigated through medinas before, but this one was huge. A guide took us through it, and it would have been impossible to get out without the guide. Ever see a street sign in Berber? How about the world’s oldest tanning factory that is still in use or the world’s first university that is now a mosque and craftsman beyond reproach? All in Fes. Combine that with a drive through the Atlas Mountains with a guide who explained everything, it brought old Morocco to life. Moving onto M’diq, we found another new harbor and a yacht club where the King of Morocco keeps his boat. M’diq is a local tourist town where inland folks come for a weekend on the beach, but we came to explore the nearby town of Tétouan with a medina that is a UNESCO world heritage site. While I was wandering through the medina, I for once got turned around. Luckily, a guide was leading a group through, and I simply asked where we could eat. The guide told us to stay with him and lead his group on, eventually pointing to a little place with great food. Once outside the medina, we ran across the guide again,
who for a small fee took us on a tour of the city from the center and one of the king’s palaces to a Muslim, Christian, and Jewish kasbah. What is a kasbah? A neighborhood. This one just happened to have a 500-yearold Torah and incredible wall paintings on houses in the Muslim section. Moving on, SoulMates made her final port of call in Tangier. Sailing down the coast, we first went into a port and were chased out by the coast guard; wrong Tangier port. A few miles further on was the city of Tangier and a brand-new port. Heading in, I swung SoulMates around a breakwater only to be waved out. I had entered the brand-new fishing port. Ok, third time’s the charm — and yes, I found the one-year-old Tanja Marina Bay marina, simply a beautiful marina and a great place to winter over. Atop the hill overlooking the marina is the old city; to the left is the modern city. I, of course, loved the old market, while Patty loved Carrefour. Leaving SoulMates in the care of the marina, we jumped a high-speed train to Rabat, the capital of Morocco. The first stop had to be the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. It is simply spectacular. In the mausoleum are the tombs of Mohammed V, his son Abdallah, and the late King Hassan II. After, we took a walk around town and to the harbor, where we saw some sailboats. Reading the water, I
said, “This looks very tricky but doable with high tide and good sun.”
We caught a train south to the fabled city of Casablanca. Before, we had been to Monaco looking for James Bond; now, it was time to find Bogie and Bergman. Ok, so it was not Bogie and Bacall of Key Largo. But hey, this was Casablanca and it was time to find Rick’s Café. However, first was the Hassan II Mosque, site of the second tallest minaret in the world, and perhaps the most beautiful mosque we have seen.
A walk across town brought us to Rick’s Café, built to the exact specifications of a couple of the movie. People were leaving as we arrived, and as it was late in the afternoon, we thought a quick drink in such a famous place was in order, but it was closed. The doorman told us we could make a reservation for dinner — in fact, they are required. Since we had made a dinner reservation, I actually dressed up in a nice shirt and long pants — and even socks. As we sat beside the piano, I kept looking around for Sam (Dooley Wilson) to walk over and sit down, followed by Bogie himself, and of course, Bergman walking through the door. Of course, just like Monaco, no one showed up. Oh well. The meal, service, and atmosphere, made up for our missing Bogie, and were beyond description. Now, I’ve eaten delicious meals from famous restaurants all over the USA, but when Bob Bitchin offers me a meal at any restaurant in the world, I’ll be choosing Rick’s Café Casablanca. Our last stop was Marrakesh, the fabled city in the desert. If you want to
spend time in the desert with the Berbers, this is the place. But most come to Marrakesh to visit the Jemaa el-Fnaa square and the largest souk in Morocco, which is next to it. The square really comes to life in the late afternoon and at night, with food stalls, snake charmers, magicians, monkey trainers, and entertainers of various sorts. Surrounding the square are various eating and drinking establishments. We did sample their wares so we could assure you the food and adult beverages are great. But don’t be surprised if when taking a picture someone asks you for money. It is a bit of a tourist trap. From the square we walked to the Saadian Tombs, the royal necropolis for the Saadian sultans and their families, then back to the square via a diff erent route. The King’s Palace was across the street, and I decided to take a picture while he was in residence. Though I quickly decided that was ill-advised when uniformed guards and a man in a suit with a bulge in the wrong place waved a no-no fi nger at me. Ok, no pictures. Back in Tangier, we followed one of our favorite traditions — we take all the money we have and buy dinner the night before we check out and sail off . It was a wonderful dinner. As beautiful, wonderful, and inviting Morocco was, it was time to set sail for points west. As SoulMates rounded the breakwater, I looked back and told Patty, “We will miss all this.” Patty says she saw a tear in my eye.
BoOks By Bob Bitchin Fire Sale!
A few months ago, the Lats & Atts offices and home burnt to the ground in Cailifornia’s Bear Fire. Every copy of all 9 Bob Bitchin books in inventory were turned to ashes. We have decided to reprint one at a time, and from now on we will ONLY be selling hard-cover prints signed by the author. Biker To Sailor was the first to be reprinted, then Brotherhood Of Outlaws. Now Starboard Attitudes is coming off the press. You can order any of these books, signed by the author. The remaining 6 books will be printed and made available in coming months. Watch for release dates! If you’d like to be notifi ed by email just send Bob and email and ask to be put on the notifi cation list: Bob@latsatts.com
Get 'Em While They’re HOT!
Bob practices what he preaches and writes about—not dreaming the life, but living the dream—and inspires by his example.”
Tania Aebi, Author, World Class Sailor
From body guard, to hardcore biker and on to Salty Dog, Bitchin has managed to traverse the past half century doin’ it his way.
Bob Clark, Founder “Run to The Sun”
“Colorful tales of the salty seagoing adventures of Bob Bitchin - a swashbuckling sailing rogue! A great read! “
