Go Now February 2012 Issue by Cross Section Interactive Private Limited

THE OBEROI GURGAON

RANKED AS THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LEADING LUXURY HOTEL 2011 plus

Shop till you drop in Thamel, Nepal

Discover the quaint charm of Kutch

Hotels patronise photography as art

THIS ISSUE EDITORS’ PAGE

Dear Readers, Winter’s gone and spring, the season of hope and happiness is already upon us. In this issue, we bring you events and developments that just add to the spirit of this season. First, The Oberoi Gurgaon has just put Indian luxury hospitality on the world map. Setting a new benchmark for luxury in the hospitality sector, the hotel has been named the world’s leading luxury hotel for 2011 in the ‘Oscars’ of the travel and tourism business, the World Travel Awards. Read an exclusive interview, in our Luxury Travel section, with Kapil Chopra, Executive Vice-President, The Oberoi Group, on what it takes to create a successful and a winning story. Further, we present to you a new destination – one of India’s most ambitious high-tech cities being unveiled on the banks of Sabarmati River in Gujarat. The project is being planned as India’s first finance and IT centre of an international standard with the state hoping to attract top-notch professionals from across the world. The move will help raise funds for overseas acquisition from other international banking and financial companies within GIFT itself. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that GIFT can indeed turn out to be a gift for those companies that relocate or even for those individuals who will plunge into a new job on the bank of the Sabarmati. A noticeable trend in the hospitality space is the growing love for art and photography. Indian hotels are increasingly discovering that photographs can blend well with their opulent interiors. Moreover, photography allows the hotels to bring in local flavour and almost convey whatever they want to their guests. Our Tourism Connect section apprises you about this trend. Our World Traveller section takes you to Frankfurt which is often referred as the German IT capital. Interestingly, Frankfurt has a strong Indian business and cultural community with nearly 200 companies and more than 6,000 citizens calling the region home. Giving you relaxing holiday options, we recommend you a visit to Thamel in Kathmandu, a shopper’s paradise; Manila for its myriad hues among other destinations. Back home, in our Destination India section, we tell you why you need not rush abroad to get some adrenaline rush. Do read about the undiscovered Himalayan gem, Bir that offers spectacular paragliding options and Solang giving you ideal ski-holiday options. All that and much more in this issue… With that, we leave you with the magazine in your hands. We hope you will love reading this issue as before and share your feedback.

READERS WRITE IN The Euro Trip

Cruising in Silolona

I often travel to Europe on business. Reading your World Traveller articles was a great pleasure! You have covered some really good European destinations. My most favourite was the photo essay on Lapland. Sounds like a great place for a truly white holiday. The pictures are really good too!

Your article on Silolona made for quite a fascinating read. That is true luxury! And a boat with a legend is definitely intriguing. I enjoy reading your magazine because of the high quality content. When I read a magazine, I always look for articles on unusual topics and destinations. You never disappoint! Kudos to the team!

Yash Sharma, Mumbai

Sehran Haque, Delhi

Good Designing

Of Fests and Fairs

Couldn’t help but notice the new Front Page layout. I simply love the new design, which is working most fabulously for your magazine! I pursue photography as a hobby and I must say that some of the pictures I see in the magazine are superb!

I always look out for the Postcards you carry. I am quite a fan of fests and fairs. Just a suggestion, it would be even better if you covered these events and people like us could get to read about them in the following issue.

Neeraj Jha, Delhi

Anchal Raj, Kolkata

Editor: Navin S Berry Assistant Editor: Purva Bhatia Business Development: Sudhir Sood Design: Ashok Saxena, Neelam Aswani Go Now is published and printed monthly by Navin Berry on behalf of Cross Section Media Pvt. Ltd. and printed at Rakesh Press A-7, Naraina, Phase II, New Delhi and published from IIIrd Floor, Rajendra Bhawan, 210, Deen Dayal Upadhyay Marg, New Delhi - 110002. Tel: 91-11-43784444. Fax: 91-11-41001627, 41001628. E-mail: info@crosssectionmedia.com This issue of gonow contains 88 pages plus 4 pages cover

drop us a line Like something we wrote? Wondering how to get somewhere? Or been to a place you want to talk about? Write to us and let us know. Don’t have the words to describe a place? Don’t worry – send us your best travel pictures and we’ll let them speak for you. If your letter or photo is published, you will get a year’s subscription to gonow absolutely FREE! Send your letters and photographs to E-mail: info@gonow.in info@crosssectionmedia.com Material not used will not be returned

February 2012 GO NOW

GO NOW FEBRUARY 2012

WORLD TRAVELLER 12

Feature: Frankfurt is a complete business destination

Feature: Malawi, the warm heart of Africa, beckons you

Destination: Explore Dubai’s traditional side

Thamel: A place to shop, eat and be merry

Manila: The world within the Filipino walls

Destination: Resorts World’s new modish complex

TOURISM CONNECT 34 Photography: Hotels support photography as an art 37

The World: Hungary appoints VFS for visa processing

The World: Switzerland beckons Indian tourists

Rural Tourism: Visit Kumarakom for responsible tourism

Hospitality: Is Noida the next big hospitality hotspot?

Developments: Gujarat’s GIFT city kicks off

DESTINATION INDIA 50 Adventure: Get an adrenaline rush in Solang 52 First Person: Discover the quaint charm of Kutch 56 Bir: Explore the unexplored gem of Himalayas 60 Madikeri: Visit the Scotland of India 64 Goa: The land of shacks, sand and sun 68 Guest Column: Watch out for Golf Tourism

On the

COVER

LUXURY TRAVEL

GO NOW February 2012

Airlines: Luxury at its best with Emirates

Dining: Fat Duck, a gastronomic delight

Airlines: Air France knows how to spoil its guests

Hospitality: The Oberoi Gurgaon sets new benchmark for luxury

Resort: Amangalla in Sri Lanka offers old-world luxury

The Oberoi Gurgaon

LOOKING AHEAD

Chennai Art Festival

TAKING ART TO THE PUBLIC

hennai will be the venue for the second edition of a weeklong art festival on modern and contem porary art. The festival that was started in 2011 for the first time will now take place between March 11 and 18 and will showcase masterpieces from across the globe. This time Art Chennai will have some massive installations as well as public connect programs and the fest will be spread out across the city, in various galleries. The first edition drew approximately 15,000 art enthusiasts to the festival and this time the organizers have promised to make it bigger and more diverse. One of the highlights of the festival is a special contemporary exhibition â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a four-part project that addresses the work of three generations of artists who 4

GO NOW February 2012

are currently active in India. Another big draw is likely to be the interactive public art project that will be hosted at the famous Marina Beach. The festival will also have the Art Residency Programme in which it will collaborate with visual artists and encourage interdisciplinary dialogue. This offers artists an open studio and allows them to reside inhouse and work on their creativity. Already,

11-18 MARCH 2012 nearly two dozen artists have been selected for the residency One of the major exhibitions called To Let the World In, by Chaitanya Sambrani, will focus on the narrative movement in India. Historians, academics and curators will reflect on the relevance of narrative art. This exhibition will be held at the Lalit Kala Academy Regional Centre in Chennai. The city will have art installations at public places; galleries will hold exclusive art previews and there will be a video art lounge, video mapping and an art conference apart from many other stimulating activities. The festival will showcase eclectic works by a diverse range of artists in a variety of mediums. For more information, visit www.artchennai.com

LOOKING AHEAD

Goa Carnival

THE COUNTLESS COLOURS OF CULTURE

here's a reason to be in Goa almost all the year round! The much awaited event of the year, Goa Carnival is the reason this month. Yes, we are talking about that time of the year when floats, carrying men and women dressed in most colourful clothes, wearing masks, singing and dancing, storm the streets of Goa. An amalgamation of vibrant colours, exotic dances, and soulful music, this festival is all about rejoicing and merry-making when King Momo, chosen by local dignitaries, declares the parade open. Of course, he is the star of the carnival as he presides over the celebrations. This year Cezar D’Mello, a Portuguese theatre artist, will be King Momo. Though it is a Goan tradition, its popularity attracts people from all over the world. For this marvellous treat, we have the Portu-

18-21 February 2012

guese to thank for they were the ones to introduce the state to this riot of colours. The word Carnival essentially comes from 'Carnavale’, which is throwing away or discarding meat. So, technically it's a fest that celebrates life in its full glory before the arrival of ‘Lent’, the period of abstinence. Goa begins to prepare for this Carnival from December itself. Apart from the bagpipers, cymbals, dancers, food, colours and parades, entertainers also perform short plays. The best way to enjoy this demonstration of the Goan culture is with Goan wine and Fenny. This fest concludes with the Red and Black dance, conducted by Clube Nacional in Panaji, a perfect end to a perfect fiesta. So, prepare yourself for the feast of your lifetime! For further information, visit www.goa.gov.in February 2012 GO NOW

LOOKING AHEAD

Bacchanal Jamaica

THE ‘FEEL GOOD’ FESTIVAL

estival Jamaica – ‘The Land of Wood and Water’ as called by its first inhabitants – tempts people from all over the world to attend the carnival that is one of its kinds. Bacchanal Jamaica, which is now a creation of at least three Jamaican bands – Oakridge Boys, Revellers, and Raiders, adds flavour to February. With 20 fun-filled, high-energy events spread over ten weeks, Bacchanal Jamaica is a “feel good fest”. This high-powered entertainment package that unites the people of Jamaica and visitors from all over the world with one another kick-starts on the 10th of February 2012 and goes on till 15th April.

GO NOW February 2012

24 years old, Bacchanal Jamaica took off in 1989 when over 300 revellers hit the streets of Kingston to partake in the very first carnival parade by the Oakridge Boys, due to whose ingenuity the carnival was born. Steadily, more bands emerged on the Jamaican scene, adding special touches to the festival. This year, the carnival has been themed "Future Shock". With plans of doing something glitzy, revolving around the space-aged theme, the carnival has changed its venue to Stadium North, which will be the entertainment headquarters. Commencing celebrations with the Mas Camp Opening

10 FEBRUARY– 15 APRIL 2012 Night, there will be some great events like the popular Bacchanal Friday night series from 24th February, Bacchanal Beach J’ouvert, Soca’cise-Fit Fete and the Bacchanal Jamaica Road Parade. The Road March is a costumed affair where revellers enjoy Soca, Calypso and reggae music while parading on the streets. Thousands of paint-covered faces, people singing and dancing through the streets is an amazing sight for tourists. Visitors can order the small, frilly costumes of Bacchanal Jamaica with fancy names, such as Princess of Persia, Atlantis, Ming Dynasty, and Moroccan Sand, over the internet. The carnival has been steadily improving with an all-inclusive band, live entertainment on the road and impeccable security. For more information, visit www.bacchanaljamaica.com

LOOKING AHEAD

The Muscat Festival

“YEAR OF THE CHILD”

he biggest and most awaited celebra tion of Muscat is happening now! The Muscat Festival, showcasing a host of varied events, commenced on 26th January. This month long celebration of Omani and international heritage and culture is focusing on youth this year and will culminate on 23rd February. “Year of the Child”, as dedicated by the Council of Ministers, is all about creating education, fun and entertainment. Ranging from culture to sports, from food to fashion, the festival includes all kinds of activities. The Oman Heritage and Culture Village, replicating a traditional fort will display Omani arts and crafts while the Muscat International Festival for Arts, Heritage, and Creativity will highlight handicrafts from the world over. The sports events include Tour of Oman and a Traditional Boat Racing event. The other events include the Oman Food Festival from 7th Feb – 17th Feb; Naseem Park Fun, with fairs, electronic games and hun-

dreds of stalls all through the festival and Asala TV Program all during the festival. Amid all these activities, how can one leave out Arabic theatre and music! There will be a series of plays and concerts. Marking the finale of the festival, the Muscat Fashion Week will take place from 21st Feb to 23rd Feb. Some events that simply cannot be missed are Traditional Boat Racing, Tour of Oman, the Muscat Fashion Week, and Oman Food Festival. Boat racing, featuring for the first in the festival, will see three dif-

26 JANUARY– 23 FEBRUARY 2012 ferent kinds of races – Old Houri Race and New Houri Race, with ten sailors and a captain, and Al Shash Race, with two sailors and no captain. Tour of Oman will see 128 world’s best cyclists participating, including Andy Schelk, Mark Cavendish, and Fabian Cancellara. Featuring for the second time, Muscat Fashion Week will give the audience a glamorous glimpse of the Arabic fashion. Not only will top South Asian and Arab designers participate, but the ramp will also witness the works of local Omani designers. The Oman Food Festival, with professional chefs and Oman Tourism College students, will include a live cooking show to delight the foodies with the best of Omani cuisine. For more information on the Muscat Festival, visit www.muscat-festival.com February 2012 GO NOW

LOOKING AHEAD

The Konark Dance & Music Festival

FOOD FOR SOUL

his February, escape to the temple town of Puri. The place encompasses all â&#x20AC;&#x201C; beauty, beach, bliss and blessings. The perfect time to visit this beautiful city is now because of the cultural delight that awaits you there. The 27th Konark Dance and Music Festival will be held from 19th to 23rd February. The festival celebrates the rich cultural heritage of India in the form of classical, folk and tribal dance and music performances by reputed artists of Indian and international fame. It is held at the Konark Natya Mandap, a cultural village started by Padmashree Guru Gangadhar Pradhan, a celebrated Odissi dance guru and Mardal player. The festival was his initiative and was held in 1986 for the first time. This colourful event provided a platform to artists from the world over. Since then, it has been re8

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ligiously organised every year. This time, the audience will enjoy performances by eminent artists like Tabla player Zakir Hussain, Mridangam player Padmashree Yella Venkateshwara Rao, Kuchipudi dancer Shobha Naidu, and Hindustani Vocalist N Rajam. Popular all over the world, this kaleidoscope of beautiful hues, enchanting dances and soulful music beckons art lovers to indulge in the many flavours of India while revelling in the beauty of Konark temples. One of the options to stay during the festival and enjoy your holiday is the Sterling Holidays Golden Sands. It is the perfect place to bask in the sun, play in the sand, indulge in music and dance and grow spiritually alongside. For more information, visit www.konarkfestival.com

19â&#x20AC;&#x201C;23 FEBRUARY 2012

WORLDTRAVELLER

PHOTO COURTESY: DUBAI TOURISM

Discover the world with our updates on destinations, airlines and experiences

• FRANKFURT AS A BUSINESS DESTINATION • DISCOVER THE OLD WORLD CHARM OF DUBAI • THAMEL: SHOPPING, EATING AND MORE • THE MANY COLOURS OF MANILA

TRAVEL BUZZ

Take a Wellness Break at Banyan Tree Spa Sanctuary, Phuket Take a break from your busy schedule and relax at Banyan Tree Spa Sanctuary, a unique wellness spa experience. The boutique pool villa resort offers three distinct packages – Spa Discovery, Spa Ultimate and Retreat for the Senses – each customised for a different level of indulgence. All packages feature in-villa breakfast and massages, a welcome foot ritual and a consultation with an Ayurvedic doctor. Other complimentary daily activities include morning yoga, Thai high tea at The Cha lounge, kayaking, sunset

beach volleyball and more. Take the Spa Discovery package which offers a 60minute massage (per person, per stay) for THB 28,800+++ (per night) onwards or the Spa Ultimate package which features unlimited 60-minute massages per person daily and a choice of Asian Blend and Balinese massages for THB 30,800+++ (per night) onwards. The Retreat For The Senses package offers a 60-minute massage (per person) daily when booking a minimum three nights’ stay, one Touch of Wellness massage lesson (per person, per stay), a healthy menu for daily lunch and dinner and an in-depth Ayurvedic consultation to top it off. Rate starts from THB 32,800+++ per night.

All rates are now valid till 31 March 2012. For reservations, please call Banyan Tree Spa Sanctuary at +66 76 324 374 or email at phuket@banyantree.com. More information can be found on the www.banyantree.com

A Valentine’s to Remember at the Dusit Thani Laguna Hotel in Phuket! It’s that time of the year when couples take love-vacations and those looking for a romantic sojourn to Thailand should look no further than the beautiful island of Phuket. Expecting a surfeit of love-birds in February, The Dusit Thani Laguna hotel in Phuket has a splendid February package on offer. Whether it’s an intimate candlelit dinner on the beach with a fabulous view of the sunset, or a poolside dinner on the rooftop under the canopy of a million stars in the night sky, couples can look forward to a specatcular backdrop for their romantic rendezvous. The package includes daily buffet breakfast for a couple, VIP treats such as a bottle of wine and chocolates, a 20% discount on a body massage session at the Angsana Spa, and a one night stay at the Laguna Pool Villa/Ocean Front Pool Villa. Packages start from Rs. 33,342 (THB 21, 000). For more information call +66 (0)7636.2999 or email at dtlp@dusit.com

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France Celebrates India – A Treat for the Indian Traveller This year, pack your suit- The Indian traveller will encases and head to the joy a number of irresistible beautiful French Republic. packages and offers like The France Tourism Devel- exciting discounts, compliopment Agency presents mentary train travel for kids, France Celebrates India – a guided tours, welcome campaign that invites the In- drinks, and fruit baskets. dian tourist to come and Avail of fantastic complimendiscover all that France has tary offers and exciting to offer! The abundant coun- discounts on almost tourism tryside, the landscapes, the products in France! For inbeautiful French people, the stance, get complimentary sun-kissed beaches, the ma- train travel for children on jestic mountains, and the French trains with the France much celebrated French art Rail Pass. To add to all this de vivre. excitement, some hotels are Most of the packages will be valid all year! Visit www.franceguide.com/in for more information

also giving guests a chance to stay an extra day for booking a certain number of nights, on the house! The offers will vary from hotel to hotel. Also, enjoy discounted rates on select sightseeing options, enjoy free guided tours of select cities offered by regional tourist offices, experience complimentary visits of wine cellars with complimentary wine tasting, get discounts on airport transfers and many more!

February 2012 GO NOW

WORLD TRAVELLER FEATURE

f you think of Germany’s historical contribution to the business world, the first names that come to mind are manufacturing power houses. These include auto companies like BMW, VW or Mercedes Benz, or ubiquitous consumer brands such as Bosch or Siemens. Which is why it’s surprising when you consider that industry actually only accounted for 29% of the country’s GDP in 2008 with the Services Industry accounting for 69%. Home to the Frankfurt stock exchange, the European Central Bank, the German Federal Bank and the Frankfurt Trade Fair, Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth largest city, its financial and logistical centre and the largest financial centre in Europe. That’s got its roots in history too: Frankfurt has been a trade jumping-off point to the western world for much of the Asian continent for hundreds of years. The city has a strong Indian business and cultural community with nearly 200 companies and more

Located conveniently just 13km from the city, Frankfurt Airport is one of Europe’s largest and busiest airports and boasts of excellent shopping lounges and business facilities. The airports’s conference centre has all the facilities the business traveller might require, whether it’s a meeting between flights, an all-day conference, or a quick check-in with the office back home before onward travel. The Airport Conference Center is located in the Frankfurt Airport Center 1 (FAC 1). The walkway from Terminal 1 to the FAC 1 can be reached via either of the two escalators in departure halls A and B. The Center offers rooms described as “Windows on the World”. Essentially these are just large format photographs on the meeting room walls but nonetheless, they make for a pleasant enviroment to work or meet clients in. Rooms are available between two and 180 people with state of the art communications systems in each room.

With a host of world-class business hotels, ultra-modern MICE facilities, a strong Indian presence, and a chequered history of commerce, Frankfurt has emerged as one of the most business-visitor friendly hubs in Europe.

FRANKFURT BUSINESS TRAVEL than 6,000 citizens calling the region home. First-time travellers to Germany will need to apply for a Schengen visa in person at their local visa office. Schengen describes the unified visa system for the European Union which allows a visitor to enter one country but travel freely throughout the region during the validity of the visa. At present, there are 22 Schengen countries, all in Europe. If you’re planning a trip to attend any of the large exhibitions in Frankfurt, or in other parts of Germany, then you’ll be well advised to apply for your visa well in advance: due to an increase in the number of applications at these times, the Visa office recommends providing up to 5 weeks notice. Check the website (www.india.diplo.de) for details as there are varying guidelines depending on your local region. Visas last for up to 90 days and are valid for tourism and business trips alike (application fee of 60, or approx INR 4100). 12

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If your stop-over in Germany is part of a series of trips around Europe, it’s good to be aware of the fact that if you fly into the smaller Frankfurt-Hahn airport, there are no formal business facilities and only a couple of options to eat and refresh yourself before the two-hour bus ride to the city. Transfer tickets to the city are available at the airport but purchasing a ticket does not guarantee a seat on the bus and it’s best to be prepared to beat the queues and board when the bus arrives. If time is an issue, you can reach the city a little quicker by taxi but that will cost around 200. Frankfurt, at the heart of the dynamic Frankfurt Rhine-Main region, Germany, and Europe itself, attracts international corporations, by dint of its central location. Located conveniently at the intersection of Germany’s Autobahn and railway, and equipped with one of Europe’s largest airports, the city is truly international and well situated for a flexible and varied work force and skill base.

Tram line outside Messe Frankfurt

Inside Messe Frankfurt during motor show

Messe Tower outside Meese Frankfurt

Frankfurt itself has a population of 700,000, and apparently, almost one in three residents of the city does not hold a German passport. This provides a stimulating and diverse range of people, speaking a multitude of languages, and providing an exciting range of restaurants and global cuisine. According to the Frankfurt Chamber of Commerce and Industry (Industrie und Handelskammer Frankfurt), 137 Indian companies are located in the city zone and 185 companies are located in the whole region, operating largely in the service and b2b sector. 96% of the Indian companies in Frankfurt belong to the services sector, of which 58% operate in the trade, hotel, restaurant and

transport sectors and 38% provide services to business services. For Indian IT and software companies, Frankfurt is the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gateway to Continental Europeâ&#x20AC;? as it was once called by the Indian General Consul in Frankfurt. Over the last few years, nearly all the key players of the Indian high-tech, outsourcing, software and IT industries have opened offices in the greater Frankfurt area. This is the result of the long-standing commitment of Frankfurt business delegations, which have been regularly travelling to India for years to promote Frankfurt as the German IT capital. There are also Indian companies from other sectors in Frankfurt Rhine-Main region: textiles and the February 2012 GO NOW

WORLD TRAVELLER FEATURE leather goods sector, in particular, have a long-standing association with the city. Prominent Indian companies with offices in Frankfurt include Air India, Cognizant Technology Solutions, CSM Software Ltd., HCL Technologies, Hexaware Technologies, ICICI Bank, Infosys Technologies Ltd., Patni Computer Systems, Polaris Software Lab Ltd., Satyam Computer Services Ltd, Sonata Software Ltd., Tata Consultancy Services Deutschland GmbH, Tata Elxsi Ltd. and WIPRO Technologies. Many business travellers travel to Frankfurt to attend one of the dozens of shows held every year at The Frankfurt Exhibition Ground (FEG) organised by Messe Frankfurt. India has emerged as the second largest exhibiting nation among 139 countries at the various Frankfurt Fairs – with more than 2,500 Indian manufacturers and scores of visitors, participating every year. The FEG is massive, with ten halls and an adjoining Congress Center, covering 578,000 square metres, which is double the size of Hitex in Hyderabad. The Frankfurter Messe (Frankfurt Trade Fair) was first mentioned in the year 1150 and Book trade fairs have been held in the city since 1478. Congress Frankfurt is the service department of Messe Frankfurt and can assist with everything from organising shows and events to translators and booking hotels. For more information mail at congress@messefrankfurt.com Most hotels hike-up room rates exponentially for the duration of the shows and rooms are in high demand especially at the conveniently located Novotel Frankfurt Main which stands opposite the Show Ground. Many of Frankfurt’s hotels are actually located around the red light district adjacent to the Train Station (Hauptbahnhof). Despite its seedy reputation the area is quite safe for visitors. Of course, if time is no object then you’ll find it significantly cheaper to stay in one of the suburban cities such as Darmstadt, just a few miles south of Frankfurt. There is plenty to see and do in the city in any leisure time that you might have. Although, the city was largely destroyed in World War II, and rebuilt as a testament to high-rise glass and steel, there are still some historical and interesting sites to visit. Unfortunately, some of these fine buildings (such as the former city hall in Römer Square) are only aesthetically pleasing, modern day recreations of their former selves after being destroyed in the 1940s. 14

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Alte Oper is a major concert hall and formal Opera House

factfile Frankfurt itself has a population of 700,000, but a regional catchment area of 5.52 million inhabitants and 365,000 companies. The number of Indian tourists visitng the city rose in 2010 to 30,500. There are 45 passenger flights and 18 freight flights from Frankfurt to India each week. SCHOOLS AND EDUCATION ISF International School Frankfurt-RheinMain: This school offers education at all levels from pre-school to school leaving certificate (A level). It was founded by the city of Frankfurt, the state of Hesse, the Frankfurt Chamber of Commerce and Industry and a number of multinational companies and offers places for 1,000 students. The Goethe University co-operates with two Indian universities: the Institute for the Study of Religion in Pune and the University of Madras. CULTURE Bollywood: This successful export is also increasing in popularity in Frankfurt. Whole film series are devoted to this genre and the German Film Museum (Deutsches Film-

Next to the skyscrapers you’ll find cosy Italian Pasta cafés, and Ebbelwei (alcoholic apple cider) pubs. At the heart of the bustling city centre known as Ziel, you can find familiar retail giants next to historical sights and buildings such as Saint Bartholomew’s cathedral. Opposite the central business district’s high-rise buildings, on the other side of the river Main sit a collection of museums showcasing works of art, film media, culture and the sciences. In total there are some 50 various museums dotted around the city. The German Film Museum (Deutsches Filmmuseum) hosts the German-Indian Film

museum) hosts the German-Indian Film Club. In the past years, the club has presented more than 350 movies. This year the club celebrates its 20th anniversary. The Indian film industry comes to Frankfurt and the Rhine-Main region for its attractive film locations. Literature: The Frankfurt International Book Fair has already had India as the host country on two occasions. Indian authors were the centre of attention in 1996 and 2006. Cultural associations: The Indian Cultural Institute (Indisches Kulturinstitut) promotes exchanges and mutual understanding between India and Germany. Since 1985, it has offered language, calligraphy and dance courses and a number of cultural events. The Bharat Verein Indian Association is an Indian culture club for the whole Frankfurt Rhine-Main region which organizes music and dancing events and celebrates the national holiday. The German Bangla Society (Deutsch Bengalische Gesellschaft) was founded in 1997 and regularly organises informational and cultural events. It also offers mothertongue teaching for Bengali children.

Club. In the past years, the club has presented more than 350 movies. From cinema to school facilities and Ayurveda to cricket; the members of the Indian community in Frankfurt have a range of opportunities to maintain and communicate their cultural traditions. The community is well represented with several long-standing organisations such as Kerala Samajam Frankfurt which was founded in 1970 and is one of the pioneering organisations in Germany. This association helps members to integrate with the “German way of life” – whilst preserving Indian cultures and traditions. by CHRIS LAWRENCE

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WORLD TRAVELLER FEATURE

MALAWI

Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Undiscovered Gem It may be small, but Malawiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s astonishing diversity of wildlife, and spectacular rugged landscapes, make it a larger-than-life destination for nature lovers.

frica is full of surprises, and Malawi in the Southern part of the continent ranks amongst the best experiences yet to be explored fully in Africa. Sharing borders with Tanzania to the North and north east, Zambia to the West and Mozambique to the East

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WORLD TRAVELLER FEATURE

factfile WHERE TO STAY Southern Lakeshore • Pumulani Lodge (Cape Maclear) www.pumulani.com • Club Makokola (Mangochi) www.clubmak.com Central Lakeshore • Tongole Wilderness Lodge www.tongole.com • Livingstonia Beach Hotel (Salima) www.sunbirdmalawi.com Northern Lakeshore • Kaya Mawa (Likoma Island) www.kayamawa.com • Chinteche Inn (Nkhataba Bay) www.wilderness-safaris.com/ malawi_lake_malawi/chintheche_inn/ introduction/

PLACES TO VISIT

and southwest, Malawi is a completely landlocked country. Tourists as well as business travellers who visit Malawi are inexorably drawn to the country by its magnificent beauty, rich cultural heritage and vibrant friendly people renowned for their warmth and hospitality. It helps that Malawi is also considered one of the safest tourist destinations in the world earning it the accolade of the ‘Warm Heart of Africa’. Malawi’s mountains and plateaus, hills, valleys and rivers offer breathtaking and spectacular scenery. The plateaus of Nyika, Viphya and Zomba to the valleys of lower Shire are popular hotspots for nature-enthusiasts. The majestic Mount Mulanje, at 3,000 metres above the sea level, is the highest point in central Africa and a popular destination for adventure tourists.

Lake Malawi: The breathtaking Lake Malawi that inspired Dr. David Livingstone to name it the ‘Lake of Stars’ has soft sandy beaches lapped by the crystal clear fresh waters and shaded by majestic palms. The lake stretches for over 580km from north to south and is 75km across at its widest point. One of the unique places to visit is the Marine Park at Cape Maclear which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and is home to over 1000 endemic recorded species of Cichlids. Snorkeling on this part of the Lake is very much like snorkelling in an aquarium due to the numerous varieties of brightly coloured and patterned Cichlids – it’s no wonder that it topped the list of the 12 most beautiful lakes in the world in a survey done by Yahoo Travel Group in June, 2011. The ideal time to visit is August to December when underwater visibility can reach up to 30 metres. Liwonde National Park: The country’s five national parks and four wildlife reserves provide excellent game viewing and bird watching opportunities. Liwonde National Park is the jewel of Malawi’s game-viewing areas: breathtakingly scenic, with the Shire River, teeming with hippos and crocodiles, winding along its western border before flowing into Lake Malombe. The park has a growing population of Black Rhinos and Elephants, as well as sable, impala, reedbuck,

WHEN TO VISIT Malawi is always beautiful. The cooler months (May to August) are comfortable for travellers from the northern hemisphere, but the lush green summer (November to April) is also a good time to visit. The months of May and June combine the best of both seasons – cooler and still green with great visibility – and are especially good for photography. Game viewing is best in the hottest times of the dry season when the animals are forced to visit water sources, but the country is more attractive in the wetter, greener months. Bird watchers enjoy their best sightings in October and November. GETTING INTO MALAWI Malawi lies within two and a half hour flight time from Africa’s three major hubs of Johannesburg in South Africa, Nairobi in Kenya and Addis Ababa in Ethiopia. There are daily flights to and from Malawi from these three hubs. Visit Malawi to experience its beauty and the warmth of its wonderful people. You will surely fall in love with Malawi – ‘Warm Heart of Africa. For more information, please visit the website: www.visitmalawi.mw or contact: Ms. Bertha Msusa First Secretary (Tourism) Malawi High Commission F-63 Poorvi Marg, Vasant Vihar New Delhi 110057 Tel: 011- 46078800 Fax: 011-46078810 Email: malawindia@airtelmail.in

oribi and cats such as leopard and serval. An exceptional variety of bird-life is visible here making it an ornithologist’s paradise: visitors to the park can view exotic birds as Pel’s fishing owls, Palmnut vultures, Ospreys and Lilians Love Bird. Inputs from BERTHA MSUSA

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WORLD TRAVELLER DESTINATION Old-style dhows in Dubai Creek

PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISHNARAJ IYENGAR

MARHABA T

he roar of a Hummer pulling up outside a plush mall, the whiff of a Parisian fragrance, the tap of high heels, and mascara-laden eyes (as if staring right out of one of Khalil Gibran’s poetic marvels) are enough to cast a spell on a visitor to Dubai. The sparkle of the white robes of the billionnaire sheikhs are a striking contrast to the dazzle of gold at a spankingly new luxury seven star hotel and the swish of the latest BMWs and Audis on the country’s longest stretch of road with mind-boggling modernism on both sides - a leitmotif to what was once a tiny fishing port. But for an ardent student of Arabic culture, there lies an enigma far beyond Dubai’s Midas touch, the fascinating world of Arab traditions and Islamic values.

Mystical Musings A speeding Land Rover takes on the dunes during a desert safari on the copper-mauve expanse of the Arabian desert. I’m dizzy after our sandy roller-coaster ride and decide to make a pit stop to lie down in the sand and soak in the sight of the sun descending as a 18

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DUBAI Beyond the glitter lies a legacy of hospitality, tradition and faith. KRISHNARAJ IYENGAR unravels the traditional heart of Dubai. golden orb over the horizon. On arriving at the final camp for a soiree of traditional Arabic dances and cuisine, I realize, to my dismay that my cellphone has slipped out of my pocket during my sandy daydream. “Too late now,” sighs Mustafa, a desert-farer. “Camels and cars may have trampled over it, or the sand might have become its grave.” I’m still ruing the loss whilepuffing on a Sheesha two evenings later at Dubai’s heritage Bedouin Village when I feel a gentle hand on my shoulder even as an enervating rose fragrance fills the air. A tall, elderly Be-

douin draped in traditional attire softly greets me with a Salaam, and produces my cellphone from the pocket of his flowing white Kandoora and places it in my lap, reciting a Du’a (supplication) of Prophet Muhammad “Astawdi’ullaha deenaka wa amaanatika wa khawaateema amalik” (I entrust to God your faith, your belongings and the outcome of your deeds). True to the Arab custom, I affectionately kiss his hand in gratitude, and even before I can evenutter a word, the mystery man, closely resembling the legendary Andalusian

Dune bashing – desert safari

Sufi mystic Ibn el Arabi, vanishes into the sunset! Naturally I’m speechless but follow my hosts’ tradition by saying “Al Hamdulillah!” (praise be to God). A small miracle in the world’s fastest growing megapolis, making a futuristic dash into the next century!

Hayy Ala-l-falaah! (come to salvation), the heart-rendering call from a minaret envelopes the space around the Bedouin Village and almost instantly, the roar of speeding traffic and the mixed chatter of international languages dissolves. The soulful ‘Azaan’ or call to prayer announces the commencement of the Salaat al Maghrib (sunset prayer) as worshippers flock together in exquisitely designed mosques and immerse themselves in prayer. Young Abdullah, after rising from prayer welcomes me to his traditional Bedouin hut adorned with quaint benches and old-style lanterns at the entrance. The cozy warmth of the interiors inviting us for a round of irresistible Baklava (Pita with chickpeas Hummus) and strong but refreshing Qahwah (Arabic coffee). Abdullah narrates

PHOTO COURTESY: DUBAI TOURISM

Hints of Heritage

enchanting tales and poems of the desert passed down through generations by his forefathers in earthy, Emirati Arabic. On hearing my verybookish vocabulary, he smiles, consciously switching over from his rustic dialect to classical Fus’ha to make me feel more at home! “If you see a lion showing its teeth, do not think the lion is smiling” laughs Abdullah reciting the famous cou-

plet by Abu Tayyib al Mutanabbi – the towering bard of the Arab world known for his bashful and audacious style. Grabbing his Rababah - a traditional Bedouin single-stringed bowed instrument with intricate designs on its goatskin belly - Abdullah sings verses of a melody he learnt as a child from his grandfather as the two would ride camelback on the dunes. “Haza huwa maqaam al hijaz” (this is Maqam Al Hijaz) he says explaining the ancient Maqam scale. “If you observe closely, the rhythm of the song emulates the swing of the camel’s gait” he elaborates as I spontaneously accompanied him on the Darabooka drum. In the distance, old Dhows gently sail by the Dubai creek adding to the city’s old-world charm, zealously preserved by young locals like Abdullah.

A Rendezvous with History A visit to the Dubai Museum is a fascinating insight into Dubai’s history. Built in the historic Al Fahidi Fort, the city’s oldest building (built in 1787), the museum houses life-like modeled recreations depicting early Arab life, Bedouin craftsmen, pearl divers and February 2012 GO NOW

Understanding, a group of mixed international tourists gather in the sprawling mosque to learn about Islam, the Qur’an, Arab culture and hospitality. The ‘Open Doors, Open Minds’ cultural initiative aims to remove cultural barriers between nationalities and increase awareness about the local culture, customs and religious faith of the UAE. As part of the initiative visitors are welcomed to the magnificent Jumeirah Mosque on Saturdays, Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays where fascinating aspects of Islam are explained in a friendly Typical Bedouin hut with fishing boat at Heritage Village

traders, jewellery and handicrafts, relics from the old port, antiques showcasing the history of trade with India and Africa, a creek-side Souq (market) and realistic videos of craftsmen at work with sound and visual effects. An old dhow stands next to two formidable cannons welcome an estimated 1800 plus guests per day at the museum! A traditional summer house, known, as Arish -

weaved from palm fronds with a wind tower, - a central courtyard with traditional boats, and the gift shop complete the museum’s historic sojourn!

Pluralism Par Excellence A sprinkle of cool water comes as a relief from the scorching Arabian sun. As I finish my Wudoo (ablutions), the tranquility and peace of the Jumeirah Mosque makes an instant impression evoking the devotee in me. At the Sheikh Muhammad Center for Cultural

Al Fahidi Fort 20

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Arabic belly dancer

and welcoming atmosphere. The initiative is a manifestation of the pluralistic thinking espoused by the liberal visionary foresight of Dubai’s ruler His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum. The sheikh has welcomed the world to Dubai and showcased it as an effervescing melting pot of cultures and races from all over. Two British ladies in Islamic attire welcome me with the greeting “As-salaamu alaikum wa rahmatullahi wa barakaatuh” (May peace be upon you, and the mercy of God and His bounties) which is known to be the most complete blessing that embodies the three most essential gifts of the Almighty. According to Sunnah (Prophetic tradition), both men and women have to be covered from navel to knee while it is mandatory for women to be fully covered including their heads. At the Jumeirah Mosque, the ladies take us on a fascinating journey into the teachings of Islam with the method of performing ablutions to the Five Pillars of Islam, namely Shahadah (bearing witness to God’s unity and Muhammad’s Prophethood), Salaah (prayer-5 times a day), Sawm (fasting

during the Holy month of Ramadan), Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) and Zakaah (offering 2.5% of yearly earnings as charity to the poor), meticulously explaining the nuances of Islamic worship, even performing Salaah as a demonstration to the guests. “The word Islam comes from the Arabic root that refers to peace. Islam literally means peace and complete submission to the Almighty”, explains Amel, the elderly of the two ladies stating that the Qur’an blatantly denounces terrorism. “Allah is the Arabic word for ‘God’ and Muhammad ibn AbdullahSalallahu alaihi wasallam (peace be upon him-is a mandatory utterance after mentioning the Prophet’s name)”, she explains. The Qur’an speaks of every nation and race receiving a Prophet from Allah with one and the same core message and also acknowledges Abraham, Moses, Jesus and other Biblical Prophets. “He is one, without any equals. He is called rabbi-l-aalameen, which means Lord of the Universe, of all mankind and of all creation. We are all children of the same parents Adam and Eve and are equal in Allah’s eyes.

GETTING THERE Airlines like Emirates and Jet Airways have daily flights to Dubai from various Indian cities. • Tourism service providers like Lama Tours (rated Dubai’s no.1), offer international tourists multi-lingual chauffeur guides, extensive city tours, traditional Dhow cruises, Desert Safaris which include ‘dune bashing’ Land Rover rides, camel rides, quad biking, belly dancing and authentic Arabic cuisine in the midst of the Arabian desert along with high-end packages like helicopter tours, luxury yacht and limo services. WHAT TO SEE • One can enjoy traditional Arabic culture at the Heritage Bedouin Village with original old-style Bedouin huts, traditional music and cuisine, indigenous folk and shopping for quaint artifacts. • Dubai Museum is a great insight into Dubai’s history with exemplary models recreating the city’s history, its indigenous people, their way of life, trade with other parts of the world, their crafts and their legendary hospitality WHERE TO EAT • Several authentic Arabic restaurants and cafes offer traditional cuisine while Indian outlets like Salaam Namaste offer some of the city’s most outstanding Indian cuisine. • A visit to The Sheikh Mohammed Center for Cultural Understanding and the Jumeirah Mosque enrich you with the knowledge of Islam and Arabic culture and hospitality through interactive sessions. WHERE TO SHOP A visit to the Ibn Batuta Mall takes you on a tour of various cultures with several thematically designed courts like the Egyptian Court, Tunisian Court, India Court. They are recreations of their respective cultures with authentic products like perfumes, jewellery and handicrafts among other high-end products on display. WHERE TO STAY Dubai boasts of one of the world’s best upper-crust luxury five and seven star hotels like the Burj Al Arab, Grand Hyatt, Armani, Ibn Batuta Gate along with reasonable and homely accommodation like the Seven Sands Hotel Apartments impeccable in their hospitality and cuisine.

He loves all unconditionally and is all-merciful”, passionately explains the younger lady highlighting Islam’s pluralistic core. In Dubai, a kaleidoscope of cultures, Hindu temples, Churches and Gurudwaras exist among other houses of worship. People of different faiths and nationalities flourish in the spirit of unity. Beneath Dubai’s glitter lies a fascinating world waiting to be unveiled before the world. February 2012 GO NOW

WORLD TRAVELLER DESTINATION The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes – Marcel Proust

his time my travel took me again to Kathmandu. No…not for the usual tour of the city which had been a part of my agenda on my last visit, but for pure indulgence – eating, shopping, experiencing the nightlife of Thamel and soaking in a little history. Thamel – a popular tourist hub located in the heart of Kathmandu became infamous as a hippie retreat in the footsteps of Jhochhen or Freak Street in the sixties and early seventies. Although you can still see strains of those times, Thamel has now evolved into a commercial tourist destination instead.

A Brief History Jhochhen or Freak Street was the epicenter of the hippie movement in Nepal in the sixties and seventies. Hashish and Marijuana were not illegal in the country then and were sold openly. The flower people instantly fell in love with the city of temples (Kathmandu) taken by its mythology and laid-back culture. The

diverse backgrounds. This also had a longterm impact on the Nepali society. Music is the foremost example: the music the hippies introduced is still the most popular genre today and you’ll hear strains of ‘Woodstock’ while walking through the lanes of Thamel. Even the younger generation can be seen strumming Beatles and Jimi Hendrix classics on their guitars. Live music from local bands is very popular in almost all the restaurants and bars throughout Kathmandu. Some say that the musicians even made a contribution to english literature in Nepal: members of the Beatles, Cat Stevens, and Bob Marley, were amongst a long list of iconic musicians who visited Kathmandu during their heydays in the sixties and seventies. The booming hotel business in Thamel today can be credited to the hippies - the locals learnt how to cater to foreign tourists and have now made a lucrative business out of it. Thamel also acts as a pre-base camp for mountaineers/trekkers.

A Home Away from Home The Courtyard Hotel – quiet and quaint, right at the centre of Thamel is a perfect place to unwind after a long day of travel.

BEWITCHING THAMEL! friendly Nepali people and their willingness to provide hospitality helped immeasurably in making this crowd feel welcome. At around that time, small businesses started setting up shop in Thamel, and in the mid-seventies a Rana palace was converted into the Kathmandu Guest House– one of the first hotels to open in the area. The hippies’ influx in Nepal dropped in the mid- seventies when the U.S. Government sent a directive to the Government of Nepal to discourage new arrivals. Visas became tighter and Marijuana and Hashish were banned by the Nepali Government. The hippies have long left the place but the remnants of the ‘flower power,’ generation remain entrenched in the culturescape of Jhochhen and Thamel to this day. The hippies were not just pot-smoking shirkers: some of them brought certain cultural and political influences from very 22

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Flaunting traditional Nepali architecture of red bricks and wooden windows, it has a big forecourt with a little bridge crossing over a man-made pond in the garden. Traditional carved stone taps with flowing water add to the ambience. A dark orange theme runs throughout the hotel which is spacious and cosy with its own restaurant, bar and a library. My room is tastefully adorned and outfitted with a four-poster bed and all the essential amenities. The best feature of the hotel is a big courtyard for hotel guests, travellers and visitors to intermingle, chit- chat, eat, drink and chill-out.

Shall We Shop? After a breakfast of mouth-watering banana pancakes, croissant and fresh orange juice at the Pumpernickel Bakery in central Thamel, I begin my second day in Thamel with a

With a colourful history, shaded by the prism of the ‘Flower generation,’ Kathmandu’s Thamel neighbourhood has evolved into a fasinating hub of music, food and counterculture.

short tour to check out the shops, book stores and roadside vendors. Thamel is a maze of small lanes with shops, restaurants, travel agencies, cyber cafes, convenience marts and grocery stores on both sides of the lanes. Most of the wares including handicrafts, trekking, mountaineering and rafting equipment, carpets and shawls are on display outside the shops. There is an elevated outdoor pavement which is a hub for all kinds of handicraftss. Bargaining skills culti-

vated at home help as I pick up some woolen warmers and gloves. Then I come across Pilgrims Book House which has a huge collection of books and handicrafts. The shop houses a cafĂŠ where you can enjoy a beer and a snack as you read. Nepali handicrafts such as paper products, pashmina shawls, stoles, carpets and other woolens; woodwork, bronze and copper statues, clothes (lot of hippy clothes too), trekking and mountaineering gear, are extremely popular with tourists. The Tibetan Thangka Treasure near the KC Restaurant has a good collection of Thangkas. Prices start from anywhere near 5,000 Nepali Rupees (for a good one) and can go up to 200,000 Nepali Rupees.

A Khukri (the medium length curved knife a Gorkha soldier carries) can also be a very interesting gift you can take back to hang on your living room wall. Buy one at the Khukuri House! For cashmere and pashminas go to Sara Arts in Thamel which has a collection of shawls, stoles and mufflers in a variety of ranges. A pure wool one can cost upwards of 8,000 Nepali Rupees. The 70% wool, 30% pashmina variety is available in different varieties like jacquard, water pashminas, printed pashminas, beaded and embroidered and are substantially cheaper - starting from 1,500 Nepali rupees. You can safely bring down prices by a few hundreds if you February 2012 GO NOW

factfile LOCATION: Thamel in Kathmandu, Nepal. GETTING THERE: 20 minutes from Tribhuvan International Airport. Flights from Delhi to Kathmandu Jet Airways, Jet Lite, Air India, Nepal Airlines and Druk Air. There are flights from Mumbai and Kolkata too. WHERE TO STAY: The Courtyard Hotel (single room tariff starts at NPR 3415 excluding service charge and VAT. (hotelcourtyard@gmail.com) MUST VISIT: The Factory (drinks and snacks for two – 3,000 NPR onwards), Rum Doodle (meal for two - 2000 NPR), Himalayan Java Expresso Bar, Pilgrims Book House, Pumpernickel Bakery and Thamel House Restaurant (set meal for two NPR 1,500) BEST TIME TO GO: Between March to May and September to November

have te patience and the skill. Nepali carpets and rugs have some of the most intricate designs in various hues and qualities. Not surprisingly, they are expensive (even a small good quality rug starts at 10,000 Nepali rupees). Though I did not buy one, they make the perfect souvenir!

Food for the Soul Thamel is a combination of modernity and old-world charm with an abundance of restaurants, cafes and pubs - it’s quite impossible to visit all of them. There are many places that serve Mexican, Italian Middle Eastern, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Indian and Nepali food and there’s more than a slight resemblance to Hauz Khas Village in Delhi with its quaint cafes. The streets are relatively safe and night-life in Thamel (at least in some places) does not stop at 10.30 (Although that’s the law!) I start off my night out at The Factory open since March 2009, The Factory is a hip bar & lounge with a factory theme (it initially gives the impression of being under renovation with the ceiling left bare with beams and floors of rough cement and marble dust). Bright red coloured cushions in the lounge area, dangling rope curtains and friendly waiters dressed in overalls add to the effect. I order a classic Margarita, mutton sekuwa (marinated and grilled mutton pieces prepared with garlic, ginger and spices) and chicken wings which the waiter recommends. Both the dishes are pretty good… though on the expensive side. But the pulsat24

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ing music, ambience, drink and food are worth the expense. The Factory remains open till 2 am on certain nights. And for those who like their tipple, ‘happy hours’ extend from 4-7pm. My next stop is the Rum Doodle restaurant – one of the oldest places in Thamel which still retains its quality and spirit. Named after the highest mountain that goes by the same name - its decor is rather unique: with Yeti feet on the wall (scribbled with signatures or comments or swear words) by famous mountaineers and other travellers. You have the ption of either sitting on the rooftop or inside. I try a bizarre (and rather potent) cocktail of rum, whisky, pineapple juice, orange juice and cream, paired with the Rum Doodle steak (which is excellent). Every Friday a live band takes the stage at Rum Doodle and Everest summiteers can eat on the house. I stay at the Rum Doodle till past midnight - it’s by far one of the favourites on my list! The final day I laze around and try and get in some more shopping. I start off wit ha repast fit for kings: a traditional Nepali brunch of momo cha (aka momos), rice, black dal, bandel tareko (fried wild boar), alu tareko ( fried potatoes) and sukuti (dried buff meat marinated with spices) and alu tama (potato and fermented bamboo shoot curry) at the Thamel House restaurant. One of the finest meals that I’ve had on my entire trip. Shops that sell silver and stone jewellery, especially earrings, necklaces, rings, bracelets with unique and traditional designs are worth a dekko. Silver is quite reasonably

WEATHER: Summer time temperatures (April-August) can go up to 30 degrees Celsius. Winter (November-February) temperatures can go down to minus two degrees Celsius. Heavy rain between June - August WHAT TO BUY: Silver jewellery (www.himalayansilvercrafts.com), pashmina shaws/stoles, Nepali handmade paper, woodwork, metal statues, wollens, mountaineering/ trekking gear, khukuris, carpets/rugs CURRENCY EXCHANGE RATE: One Indian rupee is equivalent to 1.60 Nepali Rupees.

priced in Thamel and you can get silver jewellery custom-made in a day. However for that, you must ensure that you settle the price before you order. Himalayan Silver Crafts Pvt. Ltd. with prices starting at 250 Nepali rupees has a good collection of traditional silver jewellery and other decorative items. Finally I make a beeline for some familiar food - chicken tikka masala, chicken tandoori and roti at the Third Eye restaurant. A meal for two will set you back by 1,500 Nepali rupees. You should certainly stop by for an organically grown Nepali brewed coffee at Himalayan Java Expresso Bar. Be sure to buy a packet of coffee to take back home. At the end of the day, I could be accused of being charmed by Thamel, and I’m sure there’s so much more to discover in Kathmandu. But as a window to a different world, and a different era, Thamel casts a spell which is almost impossible to escape! text and photographs by ANUJA UPADHYAY

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WORLD TRAVELLER DESTINATION

t’s easy to lose your sense of time and place sitting inside the plush gaming facility – a tame euphemism for a casino – at the Resort World Manila complex near the Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila. Easy because the 24/7 centre has no windows and no clocks, the live bands at the Bar 360 in the middle of the gaming floor play on all night and the electronic slot machines keep up their optimistic whirring and bonus announcements. Quite unlike what you’d expect in the casino of probably the most expensive hotel in town – The Maxims Tower – the patrons don’t conform to any archetype: there are the high rollers in their three-breasted suits (suitably accompanied by glamorous ladies in evening gowns); the regulars (you can tell by the way they’re betting on two-roulette tables) at the same time; the downright disheveled, pinning their hopes on that one roll of dice which could

change their fortunes, and so forth. A social microcosm of a city in the throes of change. Gambling is big business in Manila, there are at least six casinos, many more slot machine centres and you’ll find poker dens on every other street. As one would expect, it’s also intricately tied in with the tourism industry. Of course, if you like your games of chance then Manila probably holds as much charm for you as Macau (and definitely more than China), but that’s by no means a definitive summary of Manila’s attractions. The most fascinating part of Manila (even though most Filipinos would not take kindly to that observation) lies in Intramuros – the oldest and historic district of Manila which was the seat of the government in the Spanish colonial period. Centrally located, Intramuros is also known as the Walled City or Ciudad Murada because it is completely surrounded by mas-

sive stone walls that measure nearly three miles (‘Intramuros’ means “within walls” in Spanish). Inside the wall, you’ll come across stone palaces, churches, monasteries, convents, schools, and courtyard houses that were constructed between 1571 and 1898. The wall means you’re not going to accidentally lose your way but it is still a good idea to get yourself a map so that you can find your way to the major buildings such as the Manila Cathedral, Fort Santiago and the San Agustin Church. If you are too weary to walk, you can take a ride on a horse drawn carriage known as a Calesa. These old fashioned carriages date back to the 18th century and will give you a tour of the Intramuros area. A word of caution though – the period of Spanish colonisation was brutal for the Filipinos and you’d do well not to bring it up with your hosts. That wasn’t the last of the city’s tryst with tragedy though – the new city was

CHARLES KENG

WINDFALL IN

MANILA

From all-night casinos, vibrant bars and bustling American-style malls in the modern Makata district, to the old walled city and its quaint old-European charm, Manila’s history and counterculture are evolving into a fascinating blend which, at the end of the day, is uniquely Filipino. 26

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WORLD TRAVELLER DESTINATION

The American Influence

The Jeepney – a legacy of the American occupation and Filipino ingenuity

The Philippines became a Spanish colony in 1521; Spanish influences can be seen even today. After the 1898 Spanish-American war, Spain ceded the island nation to America. The struggle for independence, which had begun in the Spanish era, and continued against the American forces, was interrupted by the Second World War and the Japanese invasion of Philippines. The Philippines finally won their independence in 1946. Today however, the mark of the American occupation is most evident and a number of Filipinos attach an aspirational value to the American life. American brands are immensely popular – you’ll barely go a block without running into a Pizza Hut or a KFC. The same goes for music and pop culture: English is spoken very well by most people and on television you’ll find popular American shows such as big brother and similar reality shows. The majority of the radio stations play music similar to those you’ll find in California (with a decided bent towards ballads though!). Not surprisingly the American embassy in Manila is one of the largest in the world with over 200 visa counters!

A sweeping view of the Manila skyline from the harbour

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FALK SCHAAF

The marvellously well preserved San Augustin church

built entirely from scratch after the Second World War, after allied bombing and the Japanese occupation razed almost everything. The Makata city area is popular for its nightclubs, and shopping. Perhaps one of the only countries where Indians will find that the rupee goes quite far (one peso is approximately 1.2 rupees). Clothes and shoes in particular are much cheaper than back home. Head to the ‘Mall of Asia’, the biggest mall in the country (and one of the biggest in Asia) for a marathon shopping experience. Just walking the mall can take up most of your day. Cabs are very reasonable for getting around but for the novelty of it, take a ‘Jeepney’ – a taxi which looks like an elongated jeep usually flamboyantly painted and decorated. The ‘Jeepney’ is essentially a standard military jeep which the U.S. forces left behind in the Philippines. Filipinos, resourceful as they are, recycled these jeeps, modified them and now use them for public transport. The nightlife in Manila is quite eclectic, especially if you’re into cover bands. Filipinos have a natural ear for music and karaoke is very popular. In fact, the second-

MORE TO EXPLORE

Kite boarding on the world famous getaway of Boracay

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While there’s certainly enough to do in Manila if you’re transiting through with a few days in hand (or if you’re there on business), it’s doesn’t really qualify as a place you’d head for a vacation. That’s also because of the distance and time involved to get there: there’s only one direct flight from India and even that goes via Bangkok. Otherwise you’ll have to change flights from Bangkok or Hong Kong which translates into almost a day of travelling time. Most visitors to the Philippines are usually headed for island getaways like Cebu and Boracay. Cebu is a short flight of less than an hour from Manila and a very popular tourist destination. With pristine beaches, crystal-clear blue waters and unending stretches of white sand it’s a tropical beach getaway. The adjoining Malapascua Island has some world class scuba diving sites. The island of Boracay, just about 315 km south of Manila, off the northwest tip of Panay Island gets the maximum number of overseas visitors in the Philippines and that’s almost entirely because of its phenomenal beaches. Whether it’s scuba diving, snorkelling, wind-surfing, kiteboarding, cliff diving, or just relaxing on the beach, Boracay is a world-class island getaway. The 350 or so resorts on the island offer in excess of 2000 rooms ranging from budget options to upmarket luxury resorts.

The old-world charm of Fort Santiago in Intramuros

biggest celebrity in Manila is probably Allan Pineda who’s a part of the ‘Black-eyed Peas,’ which, in case you haven’t heard is one of the hottest acts on the pop scene right now. But when it comes to the biggest celebrity in Manila, or for that matter, all of Philippines, there is no contest: Manny Pacquiao, the current world welterweight boxing champion reigns supreme. You’ll find his image and name everywhere – on clothes to television shows. There’s more to Pacquiao’s popularity than his success in the ring: he’s smaller than most of his opponents, yet lightning quick, tenacious beyond belief, and most significantly, embodies a never-say-die attitude. That’s the attitude you’re likely to encounter everywhere in Manila – even at the casinos. Because that’s what success at the roulette tables is all about – the ability to absorb loss with a positive attitude. And the Filipinos know a thing or two about that.

factfile GETTING THERE Phillippine airlines has six flights weekly to Manila from New Delhi: Three direct and three via Bangkok.

touradmin@rwmanila.com Website: www.rwmanila.com/maximstower

WHERE TO STAY Resort World Manila More like a mini-city close to the international airport with no less than three hotels, a 24/7 casino, shopping mall, theatres and innumerable F&B outlets, RWM offers every conceivable facility that you would look for in a resort and more. The three hotels cater to all budgets.

Marriott Manila Located adjacent to the Villamor golf course, the Marriott is the mid-level option in RWM. The hotel has 342 hotel rooms with rates starting from PHP 8,550 per night. For reservations contact: Phone: (63) 02 9088079 / 9088208 Email: maria.nabua@rwmanila.com / joice.denosta@rwmanila.com Website: www.marriott.com/hotels/ travel/mnlap-manila-marriott-hotel/

Maxims Tower The luxury lodging brand of the Genting Group, Maxims Tower is the first all suite luxury hotel in the Philippines. It has a total of 172 suites. Suite holiday packages begin from PHP 15,200 per night. For reservations contact: Phone: (63) 02 908000 loc 7795 / (63) 02 9088079/ 02 9088208 Email: sharone.rellita@rwmanila.com /

Remington Hotel A budget offering to business travellers making short stay in the city, the Remington has 623 basic rooms and 89 service apartments with tariffs starting from PHP 3900 For reservations contact: Phone: (63) 02 908-8000 ext. 7770 Email: reservation@rwmanila.com Website: www.rwmanila.com/remington

by MERAJ SHAH

February 2012 GO NOW

WORLD TRAVELLER DESTINATION

an gaming, in obvious contradiction to its inherent nature, ever classify as a risk-free enterprise? In most cases, probably not. But if you can crack the deal the first time around, and then replicate the model successfully, again and again, then the risks would go down considerably. And your capacity to take, and theoretically absorb potential losses, will go up exponentially. That, in a very simplified nutshell, is the story of the Resorts World Brand. The Genting group of companies owned brand has successfully opened and runs mega gaming and entertainment resorts in Genting (Malaysia), Singapore and now in Manila (Philippines). Resorts World Manila (RWM) is the first integrated tourism destination in Philippines. Conveniently located across Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal three, RWM is home to three international lodging brands: Maxims Tower, the first all-luxury suite hotel in the country; Marriott Hotel Manila, a fivestar brand known all over the world; and Remington Hotel, which offers amenities at an affordable price. Also within the complex are The Newport Mall (that features luxury retail brands from all over the world) and the Newport theatre which is the city’s biggest with its stadium seating and state-of-the-art cinema projectors. Even bigger is the the Newport Performing Arts Theater, Manila’s most expansive venue for musicals and other events. Lastly, but most significantly is the gaming venue (casino) which spreads over 30,000 square feet. Here’s a bird’s eye view of the very expansive lifestyle, hospitality and gaming complex.

RESORTS WORLD COMES TO MANILA You have been to Genting in Malaysia. Singapore, too, acquired its share of fun, gaming and entertainment. Now, Manila has it too. With its impeccable reputation for creating multi-hotel, multiactivity mega-resorts, the Resorts World brand has created yet another extraordinary hospitality and gaming complex in Manila. 30

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Accommodation Luxury has a new name in Manila. And it’s called RWM’s Maxims Tower. This luxury hotel is the first in the country to offer allsuite accommodations, totaling 172 suites. Each suite is sumptuously furnished and equipped with state-of-the-art facilities. Guests will experience the Filipino trademark hospitality in world-class standards with the hotel’s celebrated personal butler services. Other options include the Marriott Hotel Manila. Located within RWM, this five-star lodging brand offers first-class amenities and services known all over the world. A new addition is the value hotel, Remington Hotel, which offers quality services and accommodations within everyone’s reach.

Resort World Manila facade

Entertainment at Bar

Maxim’s Presidential Suite

F&B

Music & the Arts

A surfeit of F&B outlets gives the visitor a mind-boggling array of dining establishments in RWM. Among these are Passion which serves Cantonese and Southeast Asian cuisine; Ginzadon with its delectable offerings of Japanese and Korean dishes; NoodleWorks which offers the best Asian noodles; and Mercado with its buffet of exquisite Filipino cuisine, to name just a few. Last we checked, RWM was in the process of unveiling more dining options.

A host of venues cater to entertainment at RWM. Within the gaming center, Bar 360 hosts regular live bands every night. Occasionally the bar also features performance artistes and thematic events to party the night away. Film buffs can head to The Newport Mall’s premium cinemas with a total seating capacity of 1,200. The mall is also home to the city’s newest stage, the Newport Performing Arts Theatre (NPAT). This 1,500-seat theatre has featured the grandest events, world-class productions, and more. Since NPAT first opened, it has staged the original RWM production Las Vegas-meets-Broadway spectacle Kaos, and is currently running the well-loved musical ‘RWM presents: The Sound of Music’.

Shopping All the top luxury brands can be found at RWM’s The Newport Mall. The four-level mall offers premium entertainment for the whole family in addition to it’s retail outlets. With an innovative design, indoor piazza with a glass skyline the mall has a very uber-modern look. Not surprisingly, the Newport Mall has quickly become a hotspot for fashionistas in the city.

Rolling the Dice

ities are at par with gaming capitals all over the world. RWM’s casino is the largest in the country with 1,000 slot machines and 300 table games to date. RWM also serves as the home to the newest and most exclusive lifestyle scene, Genting Club. The brand strategists at RWM have pulled out all stops to give the complex a holistic entertainment vibe. And they’ve pulled it off rather successfully: at any given point of time there are genuinely a host of options which a visitor can choose from to spend his time and money. But the biggest draw for most is the gaming centre. In that sense, not only has RW pulled an absolute marketing coup by divorcing gaming from all its negative connotations, but by incorporating all the other ancillary cultural and family-oriented activities within its facilities, it’s given a boost to the entire industry. It’s a pretty safe bet.

As would be expected, RWM’s gaming facil-

text and photographs by MERAJ SHAH IN PHILIPPINES

February 2012 GO NOW

TOURISMCONNECT Bringing together diverse stakeholders of the national tourism product

TAJ RAMBAGH JAIPUR

• HOTELS PATRONISE PHOTOGRAPHY • SWITZERLAND BECKONS INDIAN TOURISTS • THE FUTURE OF HOSPITALITY IN NOIDA • GUJARAT’S GIFT CITY KICKS OFF

A vintage car at Taj Rambagh that enthralled the guests on their ride back home from the Jaipur Literature Festival

CONNECT PHOTOGRAPHY Aloft Coimbatore has dance forms across the hotel

Hotels Support

PHOTOGRAPHY Create Sustainable Opportunities as an Artform

olding exhibitions; doing up interiors; regaling guests with naturally sepia family portraits and promoting photography as an art form – Indian hotels are increasingly playing around with photos. Various Indian arts have for a long time discovered in hotels a perfect shelter as these modern day inns host exhibitions, display creative works, promote artists and sell their art. As an art, photography too has caught the eye of the hotels as every second hotel displays proudly and prominently photo-art in its property. Interestingly, the hotels are using the relatively-new art form to spotlight traditional India. Kapil Chopra, Executive Vice President,

GO NOW February 2012

The Oberoi Group, an avid art collector and a writer on contemporary Indian art says: “We have used black and white photographs by Delhi-based photographer Tarun Chopra in our residential block. These are snapshots from the temples of Hampi; the caves of Ajanta and Delhi’s Qutub Minar. The images work well as a ‘journey through India’ theme in which the guests walk past and see snapshots of India.” The hotel selected over 100 images from Chopra’s collection in a way that each state and region of India is represented – not only the famous historical buildings but also the rarer architectural masterpieces. If it is the architecture and the heritage of India that The Oberoi, Gurgaon, wants to

show, for other hotels photography is the chosen medium to depict the lifestyle, the spirit of a city and highlight local culture. This is what Le Meridien Coimbatore has done and that too in an innovative way. Reema Diwan, Manager – Design & Technical Services, Starwood Asia Pacific Hotels and Resorts, South Asia, says: “We use photography in various ways including in the form of decals. Decals are a contemporary form of art which is installed directly on the surface, whether a wall or a glass wall. Photographs help in bringing local culture to the design of a hotel.” The hotel’s Latitude Bar has used photography in the form of decal on its glass wall. It is not merely the use of photographs to

CONNECT PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHS BY TARUN CHOPRA

enhance the aesthetics, hotels are also taking keen interest in holding exhibitions as well. Recently, The Imperial New Delhi organized a special photographic exhibition with Jessica Douglas-Home showcasing original photographs of Delhi taken in 1911 to celebrate the 100 years of Delhi being declared the capital. Vijay Wanchoo, Senior Vice President & General Manager, The Imperial New Delhi says: “We have on display some 4,700 priceless collection of pictures along with paintings and lithographs across the hotel, especially at 1911 – our multi-cuisine restaurant.” Sometimes also called the ‘museum hotel’ because of its collection of art, The Imperial displayed vintage photographs taken by Lilah Wingfield who, at the age of 23 in 1911, had travelled to Delhi to witness the events at the Royal Durbar as George V was crowned the Emperor of India. The photographs which were recently discovered,

Tarun Chopra’s photographs of Indian monuments at The Oberoi Gurgaon.

* The extravagantly modern OBEROI GURGAON’s hallways are lined with black and white photographs of Indian monuments from across the country. * THE IMPERIAL HOTEL celebrated 100 years of Delhi’s commemoration as the capital by hosting an event showcasing black and white vintage photographs taken during 1911. * Black and white prints of Indian classical dance forms adorn the public areas of the colourful ALOFT SINGANALLUR hotel that opened up last year in Coimbatore. * The JW MARRIOTT CHANDIGARH has put up photographs of seeds and grains in its open kitchen and those of traditional Indian architecture in its rooms * The corridors of the WELCOMHERITAGE FERRNHILLS ROYAAL PALACE hotel at Ooty are lined with frames of the Wadiyar family, recollecting and reliving the royal history for its guests. * LE MERIDIEN, which has become an arty brand, has listed photographers along with other illustrious people from the worlds of art, culture and cuisine as part of its LM100 cultural innovators.

February 2012 GO NOW

CONNECT PHOTOGRAPHY bring to life the opulence of the British and Indian royals as well as the mammoth size of the celebrations. It is not just the big cities, but photography is being used by hotels in the smaller rich towns as well. Aloft Singanallur hotel, Coimbatore, has embellished its corridors and public areas with large black and white prints of Indian dance forms; JW Marriott Chandigarh has chosen photographs of Mughal monuments while Marriott Jaipur has decorated the walls of its Associate cafeteria with picture collages. The other place it has used photographs are the rooms where it has taken Rajasthani architecture in the form of palaces, forts and havelis. Pankaj Birla, General Manager Marriott Jaipur says: “Photographs bring character to any area and in the case of our hotel we have used locally-inspired images to provide an ethnic touch and a sense of place to the room. As we are a contemporary hotel, such photographs help retain local touches.” He adds that photographs have a lasting recall and guests tend to remember more about a place. “Personally, as a guest I would like to see pictures amidst abstract art forms as they give a sense of belonging and add character and warmth to stoic structures,” says Birla.” Regarding the reaction of guests to photography, Deepak Manocha, General Manager of JW Marriott, Chandigarh, says: “Many a times, guests have specially com-

Vintage photographs from The Imperial New Delhi’s photo-exhibition.

plimented us on the design concept and the decor ideas with a special mention of photographs. Our hotel has black and white photographs of Indian monuments in our

WelcomHeritage Ferrnhill Royaal Palace, Ooty, displays hundreds of royal family photographs in its corridors. 36

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guest rooms.” Manocha adds that photography has developed as an art form considerably. “The current scenario is good for photography because paintings are becoming very expensive and people investing in photographs proudly display single editions bought from upcoming photographers.” Oberoi’s Chopra concurs that many photographers have stretched the medium to make it an art form. “Whether it is the use of real images or the techniques of photography, a well-taken picture is as telling and expressive as a painting. In fact, photographers like Richard Prince sell at even more expensive valuations than top contemporary painters,” says Chopra. With hotels increasingly looking at the medium with respect and twisting the art form to suit their creative agenda, purpose or the positioning of their property, the times ahead for photography are but positive and enriching from all angles. by RAHUL KUMAR

CONNECT THE WORLD

Hungary is looking at enhancing business relationship and stronger tourism ties with India. It is betting big on the recent move to fasten visa application processing to woo tourists.

ungary is keen to attract investments, encourage students to study in the country and boost travel from India. A big step in this direction is collaborating with outsourcing and technology service provider VFS Global to speed up visa application process. Embassy of Hungary expects to deliver 10, 000 visas by the end of this year in India with this association. The Embassy had issued about 4,000 visas to Indians last year, but the number could be more as Schengen Visa holders are entitled to visit Hungary. “Visa processing is a bureaucratic process, and by bringing in a specialized agency for it, Hungary wants to send a clear message that more and more Indians are welcome to the country. We look at India as a strategic partner. Its central location in Europe makes it easy for Indian businesses to spread their wings to other parts of Europe,” said Dr Janos Hovari, Deputy State Secretary, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Hungary. 70% of travel from India to Hungary is by multinational companies who have presence in the country. Hungary has been an important trading partner of India with two-way trade growing five folds between 2005 and 2008 to reach $700 million mark, though it dropped 15% in 2009 due to the global demand slowdown. Both countries are exploring options to boost the bilateral trade to $1 billion by 2012. “The Government of Hungary expects from this co-operation in New Delhi to enhance people to people contact in every possible field including business, tourism and education. This arrangement with VFS Global will certainly boost Indo-Hungarian business relations by providing for a more hassle-free environment for business-travellers of major Indian multinational investors at the first place,” added Hovari. Dr Janos Terenyi, Hungarian Ambassador to India, said that Hungary acknowledges the

Murali Raghavan, COO - South Asia and CIS, VFS and H.E. Dr. János Hóvári, Deputy State Secretary, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Hungary signing an agreement for outsourcing Hungary’s visa processing in India.

HUNGARY Seeks Larger Influx of Indian Travellers

rising importance of India on the global platform and wants to improve the engagement on the travel and tourism front. “We don’t want visas to become a hindrance in the otherwise harmonious relationship between the two countries. We want to smoothen the process by outsourcing it to a professional agency,” he informed. VFS Global will set up the Hungary Visa Application Centre in New Delhi. The centre will be operational from early March this year. The service would attract a fee of Rs 520,

payable at the visa application centre. This network may also be expanded to other cities in India in a phased manner. “Applicants and travel agents in India no longer need to send their documents to the Embassy and can now submit their applications with VFS Global. VFS Global is honored to be associated with the Government of Hungary, and is pleased to extend our relationship in India, apart from UAE and UK,” said Murali Raghavan, COO - South Asia and CIS, VFS Global. by PURVA BHATIA

February 2012 GO NOW

CONNECT THE WORLD

SWITZERLAND & INDIA

20% Growth in 2011 inspires the Swiss Government to Continue a Big Thrust

witzerland, known as the most beau-tiful place on earth, has al ways been a desirable destination for the Indian tourist. However, now it is the Indian tourist who is highly sought after by the Swiss Government. Switzerland is literally beckoning Indians with its relentless marketing. Last year, an additional marketing budget of CHF 1 million was set aside by the Swiss Government to invest in the Indian market. This resulted in a 20% rise in Indian 38

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tourists in 2011 and the Government decided to allocate a similar additional budget this year. The demand made the Swiss Government realize the potential that lies in the Indian market due to which their target for 2012 is a further growth of 20% in the overnights spent by Indians. Talking about the budget, Michael Maeder, Managing Director, Switzerland Tourism India said, “In 2011, we received the budget by June but we did so well with it that this year the Government has already given us an additional

budget. We have an enormous amount of activities planned this year”. This would result in extensive marketing by Switzerland Tourism in the form of television ad campaigns on India’s most popular channels, training programmes for travel agents, consumer reach out programmes, online marketing and print advertisements. Talking about the training programmes, Maeder added, “We feel that there needs to be a balance between the traveller’s and the agent’s knowledge. Often the Indian traveller knows more about the destination than the travel agent. Our training programme will aim at reducing this gap”. At the moment, India is a strategic growth market for Switzerland Tourism, followed by China and Brazil. UK, American and French tourists are all in the top income generators for Switzerland but now it has been estimated that India too shall soon be in the top five source markets for the country. The Euro crisis has much to do with this. With the Swiss Franc rising against the Euro, Switzerland turns out to be an expensive trip for European travellers. At such a time, India stands unaffected by this crisis and hence, is a desirable country to invest in. “It is a difficult time for Euro countries but we do not see this as a problem. In fact, this crisis is the very reason why the Government is so keen on the Indian market”, said Maeder. According to Ritu Sharma, Deputy Director, Switzerland Tourism India, Indian tourists have enough expendable money. However, they are not always confident about spending it on outbound destinations and international holidays. These are the people

CONNECT THE WORLD

that are being targeted. “We see that more and more people are looking for an impactful holiday experience. Switzerland has everything for everybody”, she added. Given its natural beauty, Switzerland has

always been a popular tourist destination but they now want the Indian tourist to see the country as a place for youngsters, seniors, adventure-seekers, foodies and families as well.

To kick start this year, 2012 is being themed as the ‘Year of Water’ by Switzerland Tourism. This year, they are promoting the country as a land of water, focusing on the role that water plays in everyone’s lives. Water has special significance for Indians. It is no secret that water has been revered as divine by Indians since time immemorial. Not a single religious ceremony is complete without the sprinkle of holy water. In tune with this, the Swiss are celebrating the famous lakes, rivers and glaciers of Switzerland. They say, there is so much you can do in water – cruise, ride, stay, play, soak, swim – and Switzerland offers all of this and more! Thanks to this special attention toward the Indian tourist, Indians will be able to enjoy better packages, Indian travel agents will be well informed and trained and Indian visitors will be able to discover and experience the culture and beauty of Switzerland. by AARUSHI GUPTA

February 2012 GO NOW

CONNECT RURAL TOURISM

Truly in Harmony with the Country Side

KUMARAKOM Responsible Tourism is a far-reaching and innovative concept of tourism. The best place to experience it in India is no where else but Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own country...

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CONNECT RURAL TOURISM

t long last we experienced Rural Tourism as it should be. It was the authentic thing giving real experiences of the fascinating India that lies beyond the glossy brochures. Naturally, as we might have expected, it happened in Kerala. Also, they call it Responsible Tourism: tourism that does not disturb the lives of rural folk but blends itself effortlessly with their mores. To start with, it accepts the very pragmatic fact that visitors should live apart from the people they visit. They should not expect rural folk to adapt themselves to the lifestyles of their visitors. We stayed in the elegant Kumarakom Lake Resort: in the heart of the Lake District of Kerala but with the natural moat of a lake to insulate it from the rural life around. The lake people of Kerala are uniquely adapted to their watery environment. We chose a row-boat with chairs to explore this lush terrain of lakes, canals and winding waterways. Everything is water-oriented: even their poultry. At one point we had to wait for literally hundreds of ducks to waddle and quack from a flooded paddy field, up a ramp, and into a slow-flowing canal. “Do you breed these ducks?”, we asked a boy carrying a flexible pole and herding his flock. He grinned, “No. We just make sure that they are driven to the right water pastures. The ducks don’t need any help after that!” Sometimes its difficult to communicate but we got the picture. Give the birds the right environment and then let nature take its course. We rowed on, down the winding backwaters. A woman from a hut on the levee washed her clothes and pots and pans in the flowing water. Another woman in red paddled effortlessly across to visit her friend on the other bank. Our oarsmen called out to a bare-bodied man with a vicious-looking knife tucked into his waist-band. He inch-wormed his way up a palm, scrambled down. Our boat nosed into the soft banks and the barebodied man poured out two glasses of a pale-gold liquid. It was sweet, cool and tangy. “That’s neera, the fresh juice of the palm”

he said in perfect English. “Full of vitamins, very healthful. In a little while when the sun warms it, it’ll begin to ferment and become toddy. That’s chock full of goodness, too, but its very heady ... veeery heady!” We learnt later that he owns acres and acres of rich polder land, has a mansion in town, but likes to get back to his roots at least once a fortnight, when he’s not abroad! We paddled on, through a broad, serene waterscape where palms bent over their reflections, cormorants dived and then sunned themselves like sepulchral messengers, and tiny water lilies starred the mirrored surface We turned down a small canal, a sort of

fodder, grain “except clothes and utensils, but we earn enough from our animals, birds and fish to buy all that.” One of the women asked “Do you think we should take in tourists?” We thought a while “Not if you don’t need to”, we advised. The master of the house nodded “It is as we thought. They have their ways, we have ours. It is good to meet, but oil and water don’t mix. No?” We drank sweet coconut water, munched on tapioca chips; realised that they had come close to achieving an environmentalist’s dream of giving back to nature what they took from it, closing the eco-cycle. We returned the way we had come, disA backwater housewife goes visiting

narrow water-lane, and clambered out into a multi-product homestead. Screw pines were bursts of serrated fronds from the banks of the water-land, a field of tapioca stretched away from a cottage where women sat hand-weaving mats from screw pine leaves and fences from palm-leaves. A pond, scooped out of the rich black earth, plopped with two species of delectable table fish. Ducks preened themselves, fowls cackled, a herd of goats chewed the cud with supercilious disdain. At the edge of the homestead, compost pits converted waste into riches. The lean-muscled master of the homestead looked a fit thirty but, we were told, was probably in his early fifties. The family gets every thing from the homestead: food,

embarked at a fairly prosperous farm-house. In a long shed, women with cloth sacks of coir fibre walked up and down while their colleagues turned clicking spinning wheels and multi-stranded, tough, coir rope emerged. We sat down with the family and shared a delectable lunch of crisp, fresh, unprocessed foods harvested from the rich polder lands and backwaters of Kumarakom. Here, in this green and watered land, it seems to always be what the Gershwin song described: an eternal Summertime, and the living is easy...” Or rather, that is how we, as delighted day visitors, experienced it. Text & photographs by HUGH & COLLEEN GANTZER

February 2012 GO NOW

CONNECT HOSPITALITY

DESTINATION NOIDA THE NEXT BIG HOTSPOT FOR HOSPITALITY? Even as some hotel majors reportedly pull out of Noida-Greater Noida Expressway project, the first five-star hotel in the area, Radisson MBD is still optimistic about the growth in the area. We speak to Sonica Malhotra, Director, MBD Group on the first mover’s advantage and the outlook for growth in Noida.

ight years ago, when Noida was an unorganized hotel market, MBD Group saw the opportunity that lay ahead and gave the area its first ever five-star hotel – Radisson Blu MBD Hotel. Today, when Noida-Greater Noida Expressway is said to be the next big hotspot for hospitality, the group is relishing the first mover’s advantage. The market dynamics have changed dramatically over these years. “The market was completely unstructured; we were the only 5-star hotel in the area. Now, there’s supply boom in all the segments from mid-market to luxury. Last year, there was an addition of about 16,000 room nights. There was a further addition of 600 room nights recently. So the overall supply in Noida has gone up to 24,000 room nights. There has been quite a change,” says Sonica Malhotra, Director, MBD Group. The area benefitted well with Formula 1, one of the biggest sporting events, being held in Greater Noida last year. The rooms were booked in advance before the mega event and the tariffs are said to have gone up by 5060 per cent. Events like this, saturating neighbouring markets and lack of availability of land in New Delhi to construct future hotels are the reasons drawing the attention of hotel majors. Analysts expect more than a dozen five-star hotels, with an estimated inventory of around 2,500 rooms to come up in the area, making it the biggest hotel hub anywhere in the country. Some of the big names who have announced investments include Marriott, Hyatt, Starwood and Oberoi. The entry of these would lead to a price war. “We don’t believe in price competition.

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SONICA MALHOTRA DIRECTOR, MBD GROUP

“The market was completely unstructured; we were the only 5-star hotel in the area. Now, there’s supply boom in all the segments from mid-market to luxury. Last year there was an addition of about 16,000 room nights. There was a further addition of 600 room nights recently. So the overall supply in Noida has gone up to 24,000 room nights. So there has been quite a change.”

Others often take the price route to lure customers. It is for this reason that others are giving rooms at Rs 6,000 per night while we are selling for Rs 9,000. It is because we believe in providing a healthy combination of price and quality,” says Malhotra. Intriguingly, the hotel says it built up the market starting at Rs 5,000 per night which went up till Rs 13,000 per night. The chains are eyeing the corporate travellers the region gets. Noida is home to many big international as well as national compa-

nies like EXL, Birlasoft, Impetus, Adobe Systems, TCS, CSC, HCL, and Xansa. “For us, the corporate segment is huge. About 60% of the demand comes from the international market. There has been some impact because of the global economic crisis since corporate travel has come down,” says Malhotra. “When we entered, the occupancy was about 88-90%. However, after international market came down and more supply came in, there has been a correction of 10% in ARRs and occupancy. Now the cccupancy

stands at 78%,” she adds. Besides the global economic crisis, there is one more roadblock that has hit hotel development in the area. Some hotel chains have reportedly pulled out from the projects owing to the recent land row. And this is perhaps where Radisson MBD stands to benefit. “Right now, Greater Noida is very weak. Only big hotels it has are Radisson Blu and Jaypee Greens. The occupancy levels are as low as 15-16%. Several investments were announced but they haven’t seen light of the day. I believe it will take another five years for Greater Noida to come up,” says Malhotra. The progress is happening slowly but

surely. According to a report by HVS, the pace of execution and project completion in Noida and Greater Noida has been slower and is expected to remain so in the short term. However, in a five to six year period, the city’s base of branded and quality rooms is expected to expand tenfold. A couple of up-market residential projects are being constructed around. A residential project in Greater Noida by Jaypee Greens on 452 acres with an 18-hole golf course at the centre provides a world-class residential option to top corporate honchos. While plans have not been formally announced there have been reports that an 80-floor sky-

scraper offering a mix of residential and commercial spaces is coming up. What’s more, a proposal for the development of Noida as an International Finance Technology City (NIFT) ‘on the lines of Tokyo, Shanghai, Paris and London’, has been prepared and sent to the state government of Uttar Pradesh by Assocham. A survey conducted by the industry body in many north Indian cities has revealed that Noida is best suited to be a NIFT city due to large tracts of developed infrastructure, good communication network and a large pool of qualified and trained workers. by PURVA BHATIA

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CONNECT DEVELOPMENT

One of the most ambitious high-tech city projects is being unveiled on the bank of Sabarmati River in Gujarat. Planned as India’s first finance and IT centre of an international standard, the state hopes to attract top-notch professionals from across the world.

ujarat has unleashed one of the biggest urban development projects in the country by undertaking the construction of a new city on the banks of the river Sabarmati. To be located between Ahmedabad and Gandhinagar, the city would be futuristic, relying upon hightech and modern systems of urban management. Touted as a city for the next generation, the city will cater to professionals from the financial, IT, ITeS as well as BPO sectors. Planned in a minimum 500 acres, the Gujarat International Finance Tec-city (GIFT) is a PPP project that the state government has established as a joint venture between the Gujarat Urban De-

velopment Company Limited (GUDCL) and the IL&FS. The idea behind launching the Rs 78,000 crore megaproject in September 2007 spurred from two facts – that Gujarat has one of the highest growth rates in the country and that the state has large manpower of investors, financial experts and entrepreneurs. With this project, Gujarat is targeting getting around 8% of the financial services potential in India.

A City for Financial and IT Professionals GIFT aspires to cater to India’s large financial services potential by offering global firms a world-class infrastructure and top-notch facil-

ities. It aims to attract the top talent in the country, as well as non-resident Gujaratis, by establishing high standards of living for its residents. The state government hopes to attract talent from Indian cities notably Mumbai, Gurgaon and Bangalore. It is estimated that this modern new city would provide 5,00,000 direct and an equal number of indirect jobs which would require 5.76 million square meter of real estate office and residential space. Being shaped up as a global hub, companies will be able to do business in

GUJARAT DELIVERS A HI-TECH GIFT CITY 44

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CONNECT DEVELOPMENT international currencies. Such a move will enable them to raise funds for overseas acquisition from other international banking and financial companies within GIFT itself. At the moment, Indian companies raise funds from foreign banks that are located abroad due to which they have to raise the necessary money at expensive rates. In other words, the city will facilitate the availability of global capital at competitive rates.

other one was the rapid transit system which was shelved as the Ahmedabad metro decided to link the city. Another project to be shelved was the underground road system which too was very expensive.

Selling GIFT The Gujarat government is on an overdrive to sell its pet project. In December last year, GIFT signed a Memorandum of Cooperation with Singapore Cooperation Enterprises (SCE), a

Top of the Line Development If everything goes as planned, the ultra-modern urban centre will see people check in over the next few months. Planned as a vertical city, GIFT will not be held back by the usual problems that plague Indian cities. Right from efficient transport and waste management to integrated land use as well as the development of green technologies, the new city on the bank of river Sabarmati will show the way for sustainable city life. The planned development includes institutional areas, knowledge parks, integrated townships and residential areas. It shall have state of the art urban amenities and infrastructure as well as efficient external connectivity. The planners have taken the best of ideas from cities like London, New York, Tokyo and Hong Kong. They are also experimenting with new ideas and technologies. GIFT is likely to set a precedent for other cities owing to its futuristic design and planning. Though the city has been planned on existing international financial models, for India, it is likely to set a new benchmark. Being built in a special economic zone (SEZ), it is a smart city with cutting-edge technologies for energy use in buildings and waste management. The city will be linked to Ahmedabad through the metro. However, despite all the positive projections, the developers had to drop some of their ambitious plans. One was the multi-level underground parking which had to give way because of the high project cost. The

GIFT had along with the Gujarat Electronics & Software Industries Association (GESIA) and Ernst & Young organised a conference in October last year at Ahmedabad to highlight the various opportunities available for IT and ITeS firms. Speaking at the event, Director GIFTCL, Ramakant Jha said: â&#x20AC;&#x153;GIFT City is envisaged to house some of the top financial and IT companies in India. The large SEZ area is best suitable for the existing Software Technology Parks units to make a shift and avail several benefits including tax breaks and infrastructure facilities.â&#x20AC;? With around 250 entrepreneurs, investors and IT and ITeS companies, the conference was a success. That is not all. GIFT is eyeing companies from different sectors. It now plans to participate at the Construction and Mining Machinery Expo being held in February at Ahmedabad so that a wider lot of companies can be told about the first-of-its-kind SEZ.

A Holistic Destination

Government of Singapore agency, at Gandhinagar to promote investment and development of GIFT by the Singapore government and private agencies. As part of the agreement, the two agencies will jointly identify and promote investment in the city. The MoC also allows GIFT to tap Singapore-based financial institutions trigger interest in the island nation to set up base in the new city. The agreement also signals the beginning of increased cooperation between Gujarat and Singapore. Singapore will hold seminars to promote GIFT as an economic and financial destination.

The futuristic city will have international markets, back office and data centres, an exhibition and convention centre, a fairly-large five-star hotel, good quality schools and everything else that an individual, or for that matter an international company, would require. With an excellent location, that is just 12 km from the Ahmedabad International Airport and 8 km from Gandhinagar, it would be connected to Ahmedabad through the metro. A large area has been earmarked for river front development as well. Besides the current 500 acres where development is on at a rapid pace currently, another 3,000 acres have been kept for future expansion and developing townships. So, with literally everything chalked out threadbare beforehand, GIFT can indeed turn out to be a gift for those companies that relocate or even for those individuals who will plunge into a new job on the bank of the Sabarmati. by RAHUL KUMAR

February 2012 GO NOW

CONNECT FEST

HERITAGE HOTEL PLAYS THE GRACIOUS HOST A Magical Beginning to the Lit Fest at the Rambagh Palace, Jaipur

aipur was the stop for the high flying, jet-setting writers, authors, filmmakers and socialites for the 2012 edition of the Jaipur Literature Festival. When these literary stars descended on the city, it lit up. People were eagerly awaiting the arrival of their esteemed guests and every hotel wanted to play host to the glitterati but it was Rambagh Palace that walked away with the honour. These celebrated authors and writers were present at the glittering pre-event party

that was hosted at Rambagh Palace. The sprawling hotel lawns were lit up in their welcome, Rajasthani delicacies were on spread and exotic cocktails flowed. The ambience at the party ensured that the guests start their five day journey in high spirits. Writers like Tarun Tejpal, William Dalrymple and Hari Kunzru along with socialites like Kabir Bedi and Suhel Seth graced the event. A crackling bonfire, amazing fireworks and stimulating folk entertainment made it an evening to remember. Adding a cherry on the cake were the baggis, which ferried the guests from the road to the main party venue. With wine flowing, there were delectable desserts interestingly shaped like books which were a sweet surprise for the guests. Another very charming surprise awaited them, as the guests were leaving the venue; they were given special royal rides in vintage cars. Satyajeet Krishnan, General Manager Rambagh Palace said, “It is indeed an honour to host the world’s most renowned authors and friends in the media and Rambagh Palace would like to extend a very warm welcome to all those present here”. compiled by APRAJITA SHISHOO

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travel and discover a subcontinent • SEE GUJARAT THROUGH THE EYES OF A TRAVELLER • VISIT MADIKERI: THE SCOTLAND OF INDIA • HEAD TO BIR FOR AN ADRENALINE RUSH • GOAN SHACKS: ALL YOU NEED FOR A RELAXING HOLIDAY

PHOTO COURTESY: SKI HIMALAYAS

DESTINATIONINDIA

DESTINATION INDIA TRAVEL BUZZ

Jumpin Heights: Try Extreme Adventure, New Zealand Style!

Jaipur Marriott This Winter: Your Royal Getaway! Jaipur has an added charm in winter, making this the best time to visit the land of Rajputs and Maharajas! This February, the Jaipur Marriott tempts all to take a little break and explore the pink city with its irresistible Winter Package, valid until 15th March 2012. Your ‘Daal, Baati, Churma’ is all taken care of as the package includes mouth watering buffet breakfast and lunch/dinner. This special offer is made even better by a half-day tour of

sightseeing in a limousine, on the house! What a way to feel like a Maharaja yourself! The hotel also offers an astounding 50% discount on meals and a complimentary room for children less than 12 years of age. You simply cannot pass up this special chance to experience and enjoy the utter luxury of the Jaipur Marriott! Minimum stay of two nights at Rs. 21,750. For reservations call +91-141-4567777 or visit www.jaipurmarriott.com

If you are craving an adrenaline rush and the vision that appears before your eyes is that of a freefall, what you really need is some extreme adventure sports! And what better time than now when Jumpin Heights has some great packages on offer! Reputed to be the first of its kind in India, this extreme adventure sports company boasts the longest flying Fox of Asia with a length of 1 km! Their Jump Platforms have been specially designed by experts from New Zealand. The Jump Masters that operate the site are professionals; they too have been flown in from New Zealand. The company is offering packages that make the entire experience absolutely worth it! With the tagline ‘Got Guts?’ they challenge their guests to try Bungy Jumping, The Flying Fox and The Swing. Guests can now enjoy Bungy + Swing for Rs. 4,000, Bungy + Flying Fox/Swing + Flying Fox for Rs. 3,500 and all three for Rs. 5,000. For more information, please visit www.jumpinheights.com

Celebrates Valentine’s Day at the Newly Launched Pavillon, Westin Sohna Resort The Royal Plaza Invites you and your Valentine to Sikkim this Season Do you want to add a little zing to the winter this year? How about heading to the Himalayas! The Royal Plaza – Sarovar Hotels and Resorts – offers you a great chance to visit Gangtok throughout February this year. This package is especially for couples looking to celebrate Valentine's Day in a big way! For, the Shivalik hills, the sun rising and setting in the mountains, the dewy greens and the dreamy mists, are all ingredients of a romantic escapade! The package includes complimentary pick and drop, buffet meals, an entire day of sightseeing and exploring the beautiful city of Gangtok, and free entry to Casino Sikkim. This 2 nights and 3 days package starts at Rs. 21, 500. For more information call 011-26383851-55 or E-mail at delhi.sales@sarovarhotels.com

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If you want to get away from Delhi, without really getting away, Westin Sohna Resort and Spa is your place! They recently launched a brand new restaurant – Pavillon, which invites all lovebirds to make this Valentine's Day a

super special date to remember forever! Most couples go out for fabulous dinners and parties to celebrate togetherness on 14th February but Westin gives you the chance to take it one step further. Not only

do they offer exotic cuisine, you and your loved one can also enjoy the privilege of a private butler and musician and personalised services along with a specially crafted ambience amid the greens of the resort, under the star-lit sky. You want to relax, get a massage, and pop open a bottle of Champagne? No problem! Westin will be your genie for the day and fulfil all your wishes, even if they are more than three! Their packages start from Rs. 8,000 per couple. For more information you can call +91-124-450 8888 or get in touch with amit.sharma@westin.com

DESTINATION INDIA TRAVEL BUZZ

Bring your loved one to Aamby Valley and have an Unforgettable Valentine’s Day A Peaceful Retreat Option from Samode Bagh Samode Bagh offers a 2 nights and 3 days package for people who want to unwind in the royal Mughal gardens. It was built 175 years ago and is modelled around the geometric style of a Mughal garden where members of Samode Royal family came to enjoy rare moments of privacy. Samode Bagh is a garden retreat steeped in luxury and is a perfect choice for a quiet getaway. The beautifully laid out Mughal gardens have been restored to their former glory. Samode is located 42 km North West of Jaipur and is reached by joining the Ajmer Expressway off the Delhi–Jaipur Highway from Chandwaji. The distance from Gurgaon is approximately 200 km and from Chandwaji it is about 22 km. Nestled at the foothills of the Sahyadri Mountains, Aamby Valley City is a perfect destination to celebrate this Valentine’s Day. So pack your bags and get ready to be pampered with special packages or customize an exclusive package for your sweetheart. Aamby Valley brings to you two packages perfect just for you and your loved one.

food and beverages that are sure to tickle your palate.

Cost: Rs. 17,500. For reservations (0124) 4057795-96 E-mail at sales@samode.com, www.samode.com

Package starts at Rs. 61,000.

Wilderness Zone’s Package

Romantic Getaway Package

Alternatively, one can go wild with the exclusive wilderness zone package that lets you enjoy candle light dinner and flowers with your Valentine amidst a beautiful setting with mashals and enchanting music as you are served with culinary delights.

Escort your lady love to this beautiful paradise in a private chopper and pamper her with an array of flowers while you unwind in a luxurious Cabana. You can bask in the lap of luxury with their renowned Swedish massage and be spoilt for choice with a range of

Package is priced at Rs. 6,000 for 5 hours of total bliss in this luxurious abode. For for more information contact: Aamby Valley City @ 022-39807444; reservations@aambyvalley.com Or www.aambyvalleycity.com

Treat your Special One to a Glorious Valentine’s Day at Alila Diwa If whispering sweet nothings to one another while enjoying a romantic candle lit dinner by the pool side with music to serenade your loved one seems like a dream, then visit Alila Diwa Goa and live your dream this Valentine’s Day! Celebrate the sheer spirit of romance with an indulgent evening at the resort, with a specially designed 5-course aphrodisiac menu to stimulate your senses. Zest up the

intimacy with your better half to the tunes of Acacio hitting the right notes and cherish your special moments with a glass of champagne, followed by a sit down dinner for two at the Edge Bar. Spa packages specially designed to heighten the romance are also available on prior appointment. So indulge yourself and make it a memorable valentine’s celebration with your loved one!

The package costs Rs 2,012 per person. For further information, please contact: nitika.a@actimediaindia.com Tel: 9867127224 reema@actimediaindia.com Tel: 9619030516 February 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA ADVENTURE

Alpine Premier League to be Held 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9th February in

SOLANG Explore your adventurous side and head to Solang where skiing and adventure have got a new definition. Snowboarding, rappelling and other adventure activities here might soon turn it into another Switzerland.

olang may soon be the picture post card adventure destination of India. For those who crave the adrenaline rush, Solang and Adventure Himalayas is the place to be. Solang Adventure Valley, started by Ski Himalayas, a division of Adventure Himalayas is the next adventure sport destination of India. Solang Adventure Valley offers the best of facilities for paragliding, snowboarding, zorbing, mountain biking, rappelling and other adventure activ50

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ities. Ski Himalayas is Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first privately owned Adventure Valley and it also boasts of being the only destination in India that has powder snow for the skiing enthusiast. Located at a comfortable distance of 10 km from Manali in Solang, this adventure valley is the initiative of Power Himalayas and the Government of Himachal Pradesh. According to figures, Solang gets a tourist footfall of 12 lakh annually and is growing by 10% year on year and the best months to

visit are February, April-July and October. Solang seems to be our answer to Mt. Titlis in Switzerland. Adventure activities like snowboarding, Gondola rides that would put any European gondola ride to shame and many other fun activities are a part of the adventure valley. Although it is an adventure destination, people of all ages can enjoy the Tube Slide where one just has to sit and slide, leaving the rest to snow and gravity. Adventure Himalaya boasts of 19 Gondolaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with a seating capacity of 8 persons each. The ropeway is the latest state of the art built by Poma of France similar to the one in Switzerland and France and it covers a distance of 1.3 km having a vertical rise of 500 metres and a top speed of 6 m/s. Solang is at the centre of Himalayas and is the only snow point accessible in the Himalayas for skiing from the months of December to April. Over 2 lakh inbound tourists have visited Solang ever since the Gondola has given access to the best ski slopes in the country. Around 30-40% of the tourists have visited Solang, spending an average Rs 50,000 plus for a 3 nights and 4 days package. For experienced paragliders, it is the destination to head to. There are 2 jump stations, one of them being at a higher altitude. Even for the inexperienced ones, there is tandem paragliding wherein one just has to muster

The Alpine Premier League is hosted by Ski Himalayas, a division of Adventure Himalayas and is recognised by Skiing Association of Himachal Pradesh. The League will be held between 5-9th February 2012 and is expected to attract over 150 international and Indian participants.

up the courage to jump, there is no need to fly. The sensation of flying will be created using high tech equipments and monitors. Ski Himalayas also offers the best teaching facilities for beginners and offers certified courses, approved by the Himachal Pradesh Government. So, if you are an adventure freak, just head towards Solang and explore your wild side. Compiled by APRAJITA SHISHOO

February 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA FIRST PERSON

MEMOIR OF A JOURNEY THROUGH

KUTCH

It’s not always the destination but sometimes it’s the journey that makes a travel experience worthwhile...

travel alone. I like it. In fact love it. It’s my way to reconnect with myself while discovering those who are not ‘me’ in the land around me. I did think twice before saying yes to travelling in a group but figured one can always escape. Not only did I not need that escape chute, I thoroughly enjoyed and cherished the time spent with these newfound likeminded soles (catch the pun?). It’s sometimes not about where you go but how you go. Meeting different people is one of the reasons we all love travelling. The people you travel with sometimes are just as inter52

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esting, and authentic. The magical moonlight on the Rann, the sunrise next day could not have been in a better company. Even with the millions (well sometimes more than 10 seems like million to me) around me, my companions shielded the noise, the chaos, allowing me to have that little moment where one wants to be the only one to behold a sight that can leave a poet wordless. And then when you have had your fill of the silence, you turn around stretch your hands to hold the full moon, take some cheesy photographs, taste the salt beneath your feet and just huddle at

times trying to hold off the nip in the air. Next day, ‘Z’ and I made our way to catch the sunrise. Our driver overslept, so we decided to walk at least a couple of miles to the Rann. The horizon, a mirage many a moments was still as a lake. The cold and distance played on my arthritic knees but ‘Z’ gently edged me on. I did not want to disappoint and kept up slowly giving us both space to enjoy the moments alone but together. Unlike the previous night, the land was enjoying its peace and so was I. As we made our way into the villages surrounding the Rann, my thoughts seemed to

DESTINATION INDIA FIRST PERSON be echoed by ‘Z’. As we walked ahead of the group, we encountered kids running towards us. We were not comfortable with little children holding their hand out for a pen or some money. Uncomfortable, we made some quick purchases for things I am sure we really did not need but wanted. ‘Z’ and I were very proud of our acquisitions. As we lay them in the room the colours of Kutch reflected in the patchwork bed covers. Soon they will adorn our urban spaces, remind us when we least expect a glimpse of the simple beautiful people who live surrounded by these vast plains. In the port city of Mandvi, we made our way into the ship building yards. ‘Z’ had been here before, writing and photographing

the area. I had a heads up on what to expect and let the enthusiasm of a sailor returning to his favourite port take over my time. As I walked in the old town admiring the doors which gave me a glimpse of the people behind, I heard stories from ‘Z’ about the sailors who came here, the land that absorbed the traveller, assimilated with the strangers making them their own. ‘Z’ has an infectious enthusiasm that rubs off on you, though a little loud at times. As we meandered through the old fishing town, he found his passion. Now every cat in that town knows ‘Z’ and am sure the cats and their owners will remember us for the longest time to come. I did have a chance to wander about on my own, leaving ‘Z’ wandering on to the boats

making conversations with Zanzibarian’s who had made Mandvi home. I heard a familiar sound of my mother tongue and there was Ramesh perched on a ledge, taking a break from hammering some cotton between the wooden planks. He said I looked like somebody from Hyderabad. That was uncanny but true and the commonality of language led the conversation further. Away from home for the last decade he said he worked on these might boats. A boy from the interiors of Andhra farmland, he was happy working on boats that sailed the trade winds to Africa. I still wonder how he knew that I was from Hyderabad, had ‘Z’ mentioned it? As we walked about in town buying some gifts for our host for the afternoon, ‘Z’

February 2012 GO NOW

CHAMPANER The Land of Mosques and Monuments

s we were traversing the length and breadth of Gujarat, our feet ached and our spirits were slightly weary. So on the last day, when we were supposed to visit Champaner, all of us had second thoughts about actually making the trip. I had first heard of Champaner through a friend who was studying in Ahmedabad and would make a quick weekend trip to Champaner when he wanted to escape the chaotic clutches of city life. I remember him telling me about the mounted heritage structures scattered across the dusty little town. I had immediately then drawn a picture of it in my head and it certainly did seem like place I would have liked to experience. Out first stopover was at the Sahar ki Masjid which is a sandstone mosque with towering minarets etched with the most intense designs. My fellow travellers and I were the only ones in the mosque. That allowed me to seek my own space and as I walked pass the sturdy columns, the mosque took me back to hundreds of years. The guideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s voice echoed in my head and his words brought forth an army of Jains, Muslims and Hindus who congregated at the mosque. The influence of all the three communities was starkly visible in the sculpted ceilings and doors. The wind was chilly and as my fingers traced the shivering marble centerpiece, the artwork narrated tales of the skill and time which must have gone into creating the momentous structure. The guide says that there 54

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exists no documented evidence of this place ever having been used as a mosque. And the geography of the structure complies are one sees the wide open space where conversations must have nurtured between columns. Our next stop was at the Jami Masjid, another stupendous testimonial of the Mahmud Begadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rule on Champaner when he made the city the capital of Gujarat. We were fortunate to have reached this Mosque just as a bunch of tourists were stepping out. As we paved our way through the stoned arch laced in lattice, the mosque came into view. It was lined by balconies and minarets and several local children who were perhaps on a school trip. Their buzzing bickering and coloured outfits contrasted with the 15th century structure which rebelled with its symmetry and the use of sandstone. The afternoon sun played hide and seek with

the latticed windows and balconies and drew pretty patterns on the floor. Pigeons cooed away in corners of the murky mosque. Two men discussed employment options sitting inside the cool carved space before the window. Children streaked pass the columns leaving their shadows behind. The large dome with intricate carvings offered protection from the heady sunrays. Time passed slowly and quickly, all at once. I was humbled by this feat of beauty which offered very limited utility in our current times but overwhelmed me with its powerful aesthetic composition. I am usually skeptical of history books and especially great rulers like Mahmud Begada. I always wonder about the lives lost, the struggle for power and the very need for a ruler to indulge in an extravagant expense of building a structure of this size and beauty when it could be used for the benefit of the proletariat. However, in that moment, I thanked Mahmud Begada for commissioning this mosque and creating a structure which has stood the test of time and empires. I was indeed grateful for this piece of history which could remind us of a time and world that was. I smiled as I thought about the employment this structure must have generated, the art which has been preserved and the hub that it acts like for the existing community. I sighed deeply as I felt my spirits rise and began walking towards the exit. by GOPINATH PARAYIL

DESTINATION INDIA FIRST PERSON and I lost the others in the group. We knew our destination but not the path. But it seemed everybody in the town knew who we were and led us through the alleyways to our destination. While trying to navigate through town randomly dropped into beautiful mansions one of which was a Jain dharamsala, which had faint reminders of architecture from down south. In the old market, I finally found someone who helped me buy this lovely vivid scarf that many of the Muslim men wore. I approached a colourful old man who insisted we stay in the background while he bargained for us. It turns out that the scarves come all the way from Karachi and one does not need imagination to know how it comes. ‘Z’ later learnt how to tie it around his head during a highway break. We seemed to have provided some much needed entertainment for the truckers. Mandvi had more in store for us. ‘Z’ was originally from Mandvi. His family had moved to Mumbai in their grandfather’s time. Having tracked the current owners of the old ancestral home, ‘Z’ was invited and so were we to an afternoon meal. ‘Z’ perhaps was controlling his emotions as we all sat in the living room fringed by the original woodwork. Imagine discovering the house where your ancestors left traces, perhaps messages etched in the wood. We shared her connections and in that we will always be connected with her to the house. A Bohri ‘dastar khanna’ awaited us. Laid in the room next to the family kitchen, we all sat on the floor trying very hard to fold those unexercised knees. Famished after travelling through predominantly vegetarian land, we devoured the fresh fish and prawns. If the catch were any fresher it would have walked off our plates. The fish marinated in local spices, pan fried just fell off the bones. There was my ever-favourite Pomfret that kept me busy for a while. I am scared of fish thorns. The prawns were cooked to perfection in rice, moist and succulent with the perfect burani to complete it. ‘Z’ was in heaven. You could see in the silence, satiated smile that a teleportation had taken place. All it took was some fish in the meal to bring that joyous laughter and shine in the eyes. A thief caught in the orchard. As ‘Z’ enjoyed, we exchanged stories. The family of five brothers all lived together; from farmers to lawyers between them they had covered all occupations. There were

children everywhere all around the same age. What joy to grow up with cousins who are your friends? As we made our way to see the house which in another 9 years will be considered a heritage house, the women of the house sat down to eat. After a spent afternoon, we said our goodbyes to our newfound friends who will always be a part of the journey. In this new age, I know we will meet again, if not anything virtually exchange the changes in our lives. Through time perhaps our paths will cross again, their children grown and my

shoes worn a bit more. The land as intriguing as it was provided a backdrop to my experience. It was my interactions with ‘Z’ that made the trip. What I will remember from this trip are these human interactions that I hope I can maintain for years to come. Travelling with ‘Z’ is a story of who travelled with me. It’s a collective of a person, their traits and my adventures with them. ‘Z’ is not just one person but also a part of all my four travel companions and what they shared with me. by GOPINATH PARAYIL

February 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA HIMACHAL PRADESH

A Top Billing for

BIR

Long known to para-gliding enthusiasts, whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve literally landed on its meadows for years now, the small Tibetan hamlet of Bir is still an unspoilt gem in the Kangra valley. Bharati Motwani comes away enchanted.

Billing is known to host several international paragliding events.

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Several tourists settle here for months seeking self-awareness

estled in the shadows of the mighty Dhauladhar mountainrange in Kangra Valley, Himachal Pradesh the small Tibetan settlement of Bir draws two very different kinds of visitors. The first are typically students or academics interested in Tibetan culture, while the other (and far more numerous), are adrenaline junkies who flock to Bir for paragliding and parasailing. The other Tibetan-centric towns of Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj in Chamba valley are not really that far geographically, but in the silent repose of Bir, those relatively chaotic towns seem more like a world away. Bir is located in a valley surrounded by hills which include Billing Hill. And it’s from a small meadow on the apex of Billing Hill that hundreds of thrill-seekers launch

themselves into the air on their para-gliders. Billing, as all adventure sports enthusiasts already know, hosts several international para-gliding events. Facing the vast expanse of the Kangra valley below, Billing allows flyers hours and hours of uninterrupted flight which have made it something of a legend in international paragliding circles. In a way that is inimically India, an ultramodern sport blends seamlessly with ancient traditions as flyers from all over the world seek the blessings of ‘Thermal Devta,’ whose temple sits halfway down the eastern spur. It’s quite a sight – bronzed suntanned faces, with oodles of sun-block lotion and a vermilion tilak to round things off! The contrasts don’t end there. Billing is essentially a village area - on the same field you’re likely to see tourists, clad in colourful body suits and re-

flective glares, readying for flight, even as local lasses nearby planting potatoes shake their heads in disdain (at what must seem to them as complete acts of madness). The flyers make a touchdown in a large, terraced field at Bir amidst roars of cheers from children gathered below. Counterintuitive as it may seem, there’s something almost Zenlike about Paragliding which pushes the limits of every individual, forcing them to confront their fears. But Bir is not just about adventurous pursuits. Long-term tourists settle here for months learning Vipassana meditation and seeking self-awareness in more peaceable ways than flinging themselves off a mountain. Bir is a pretty yet a haphazard collage of tin and stone dwellings, set amidst orchards and fields with hundreds of faded prayerFebruary 2012 GO NOW

There is postcard loveliness in the backdrop of this idyllic valley

Bir is not just about adventurous pursuits

flags flapping in the chilly breeze which originates from the snow-capped Dhauladhars. Like other Tibetan settlements in India Bir is a bit like a microcosm of Tibet – Chortens, monasteries, mani-walls, the aroma of thukpa and the sound of prayer wheels turning. Sym58

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bols of the great karmic wheel of cause and effect, of the circle of happiness and despair which bind this community. The grandest building here, a magnificent blue, red and gold palace is the residence of the Orgyen Topgyal Rinpoche which is sur-

rounded by the exuberant pink flowers of the paja tree – a recurring motif all over Kangra. Just outside Bir lie Sukhabagh and Harabagh – two villages culturally and otherwise very distinct from Bir with their slate-tiled houses and well-tended fields. A visit here is a fascinating insight into the native Kangra culture: fair-skinned Kangra women clad in bright-bordered woolen pattus (which they’ve woven themselves on a back-strap loom), cover their heads with a dhatoo – a cotton scarf in blue, pink or yellow – pulled back behind the ears and knotted. It’s almost postcard loveliness and in the backdrop of this idyllic valley, it suddenly makes complete sense why this region is home to the Kangra School of miniature painting, a genre that end-lessly explored the nuances of human love. There are several pleasant tea-shops here, where you can drink the famous black Kangra tea and chat with the Gaddi shepherds on their way down from higher slopes. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a meal as satisfying as the one to be had at these wayside tea-shops – a small steel plate of hot cholas, with flaky pastry rolls from the village bakery dunked in a cup of sweet Kangra tea.

Like other Tibetan in settlements in India, Bir is a bit like a microcosm of Tibet

Visit to Bir gives you a fascinating insight into the native Kangara culture

factfile GETTING THERE The nearest airport is at Gaggal, 120 km from Bir. I would recommend the train though: the nearest railhead is Pathankot and from there a charming narrow-gauge Kangra toy-train will take you to Bir Road station. Alternately you can catch a bus or taxi to Bir. WHERE TO STAY There is simple, basic accommodation available in the Tibetan village, or alternatively a lovely Forest Rest House in Upper Bir – a charming colonial bungalow with 5 spacious rooms. Advance bookings would need to be made with the District Forest Officer (DFO) in Paramour. For those looking for luxury, the Taragarh Palace Hotel (35 kms away), the former residence of the Raja of Kangra, is an elegant Welcomgroup property.

Taragarh Palace Hotel

Not far from Bir is the village of Andretta, famous for the glazed blue-pottery which people in Delhi drool over at the annual Diwali Mela at the Blind School. Andretta is also famous for its revival of the Kangra School of painting. There is an artist’s village here started by the legendary Norah Rich-

ards, responsible for the revival of Punjabi rural theatre. There’s a lot to see and do in Kangra valley: eschew the tourist hubs the next time you want some quiet time away from the hubbub of the city and go to Bir instead. You won’t be disappointed.

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The Land of Heroes

MADIKERI There are three theories about the origins of the Kodavas: that they are Aryans, or of Arab ancestry, or have descended from some of the soldiers of Portuguese Admiral Vasco da Gama who stayed behind and married local women.

The oddly Islamic looking tombs in Madikeri. (Above) A horizon-spanning view from Madikeri

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t looked as prim and orderly as a military establishment. In a way that’s exactly what it was. According to a coffee-planter, “If you throw a stone in Madikeri you’ll hit a general. If you throw two stones, you’ll, probably, get a brace of colonels, bristly moustaches and all!” The Coorgis, who call themselves the Koduvas, and are the most high-profile community in Madikeri, had a tradition of sending at least one male in every family to the defence services. This has, probably, been diluted now but it could account for the cantonment-like look of this cottage-dotted town in the hills of Karnataka. The roads of most of our hill-stations weren’t designed for cars. Madikeri’s narrow, winding roads were meant for walkers, horses and animal-powered vehicles. We felt this when we drove through the town to the Palace Fort.

DESTINATION INDIA MADIKERI It certainly is a fort, with thick walls and deep gates. At one corner of its grounds is a steepled church now converted into a museum with hero-stones standing erect in the yard. At the far end of its grounds, next to two enormous effigies of elephants, was a board that proclaimed:Mercara was founded by PRINCE MUDDURAJA of the HALERI dynasty in 1681 and named after him as MUDDURAJANAKERI. This later became MADEKERI by the locals. The British called it MERCARA. There was also another plaque with a delightfully vague description: ANCIENT ALLURE In the centre of the palace courtyard is a stone image of the Travancore Tortoise (Indotestudo forstenii) endemic to the Western Ghats. The species needs to be protected and conserved. Apart from pointing out the existence of this strange sculpture, nothing was said about what it signifies or why it is there. We walked across to the former Anglican Church, now an ASI museum, and were impressed by the collection displayed here. The fact that the light streamed in through the beautiful stained glass windows at the far end of the nave, added to the meditative ambience of the museum. There were also memorial plaques to planters and servicemen who had lost their

lives in World War II; Jain and Hindu sacred sculptures of the 12th century; boar masks and tribal deities of the 18th century; weapons including the curved dagger of the Kodavas. And, in a fitting tribute to Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatly revered Field Marshal Cariappa, there was a separate little room, which had probably been the vestry in the old church, dedicated to the memory of this unforgettable army chief. He was a Coorgi, a Kodava. From such shrines to the past we drove down into town and parked at the gate of a living shrine: the impressive Sri Omkaresvara Temple. Officially this is a Siva temple of the Lingayats but there are distinctly Islamic idioms in the architecture. It has a central dome with minarets at the four corners, surmounted by their own, smaller, domes. It is possible that the influence of Tipu Sultan had a lasting impact on the architects of this temple. It was built by Lingaraja II in 1820, just 21 years after Tipu Sultan died in Srirangapatna. In fact we saw the Islamic influence even in other Lingayat monuments crowning a green hill referred to as Gaddige. A plaque installed at the foot of one of the plinths read ROYAL TOMBS Built in the Indo-Sarcenic (sic!) style, these monuments with domes and minarets, hold the mortal remains of Kodava Royalty and court dignitaries. The central tomb is of DODAVEERARA-

JENDRA and his queen. To the right is the tomb of LINGARAJENDRA built by his son CHIKKAVEERARAJENDRA in AD 1820. To the left is the tomb of the royal priest RUDRAPPA, built in 1834. Nearby are buried two royal officials, BIDDANDA BOPU who died fighting Tipu Sultan, and his son BIDDANDA SOMAIEH. The two smaller tombs, at one end of these bush-encircled grounds, are surmounted by statues of white bulls. A plaque here says SACRED SENTRY The kings and nobles of Kodagu were worshippers of Shiva. Hence their tombs are watched over by his vehicle, the bull (Bos taurus) Nandi. This signifies the importance of the bull in our traditions. Though it was very overcast, it hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rained. We decided to rush down to Abbi Falls before the monsoon boxed us in. The falls lie at the end of a road winding through a dark and verdant coffee estate. A board at the entrance to the road said: ABBI FALLS The Madikeri Stream, also called MUTTARAMUTTU, falls 21.3 meters between huge boulders. ABBI means waterfall in KODAVATAE. The British called it JESSEY in memory of the daughter of the first chaplain. The falls were quite spectacular even though they were not gushing in their full monsoon fury. They foamed and cascaded

The neat capital of the warrior Koduvas

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ter wall and with a central court on which independent shrines stood. At the base of the steps leading up to the gate of the temple, a plaque read:

Devotees at the renewing source of the Cauvery

over rocks, frothing and surging before pouring into a large pool, and then flowing under a suspension bridge. Abbi Falls are well worth visiting but everyone should treat that forest path with a great deal of respect. Next morning the valley on the far side of Valley View was patched with sunlight and shifting cloud-shadow. It was very inviting and so we decided to drive down the 44 km road to the famed, and greatly revered, Talacauvery. We wound through coffee plantations to the valley of Bhagamandala and then soared up the hill to where the Cauvery is born. A welcoming arch rose ahead of us, soaring and majestic. Beyond it was a broad flight of grey granite steps There were very few people on this huge expanse of rising, stone, stairs. At the far end there was a terrace leading down to a large, clear, pond. We walked across to the other side. In front of a small, decorated, shrine there was a square pool holding the spring that was the source of the Cauvery. A saffron-robed priest sat on one side of the pool conducting a puja for some people sitting on the other side of it. The bright images of the priest and the devotees shimmered in the large pond. Our guide told us that on the 17th of October every year, thousands of pilgrims and visitors gathered here to see the Miracle of the Rebirth of the Cauvery. On that day, though 62

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factfile Location: It is situated in the Western Ghats, with Mangalore to its West and Mysore to its East as its nearest cities. Getting There: Mangalore Terminal is the closest airport with a distance of about 136 km from Madikeri. Nearest train stations are Kasrgod, Kannur, Thalassery and Hassan, all about 110 km away. However, closest major rail head is Mangalore. Languages Spoken: Kodana Takk, Byari, Kannada, English, Are Bhashe (Gowda Kannada)

at no fixed time, the spring inside the little pool would begin to bubble. This would be greeted with great rejoicing because it was a sign that the Cauvery had revitalized herself. From the shrine complex, steps led up to the peak of Brahmagiri Hill. The mist had rolled in and was drifting up slowly, languidly, as if time didn’t really matter here. It all looked very ethereal, teetering on the brittle edge of reality. Leaving Talacauvery we drove down, through dense shola forests, to the bottom of the wooded valley where the hamlet of Bhagamandala spread. It had, clearly, grown around the walled Bhagandeshwara Temple built in the multiple-roofed style of the temples of Kerala, enclosed in a perime-

TRIUMPH OF DEVOTION According to the Skandpurana, the Bhagandeshwara Temple is named after Bhaganda Muni who installed Shivlinga here. It attracted the devotion of many dynasties of Karnataka…………. Raja Doddaveerarajendra renovated the temple after it was damaged in a battle in 1790. Across the road from the temple, people immersed themselves in the confluence of the visible Cauvery and Kanaka rivers. Devotees also believe that a third river, the Sujyothi, also merges its subterranean, and therefore invisible, flow with the other two making this a very sacred Triveni Sangam. After this we returned to Madikeri and, since the weather was still holding out, visited Raja’s Seat: a popular, and well-maintained public park giving superb views over the valley. We hurried back because we wanted to talk to a Kodava about the customs and traditions of his people. The soft-spoken, smiling, K.T.Subbaiah has his own hotel and owns a coffee estate. According to Subbaiah, there are three theories about the origins of the Kodavas: that they are Aryans, or of Arab ancestry, or have descended from some of the soldiers of Portuguese Admiral Vasco da Gama who stayed behind and married local women. Their traditional dress of a turban, long coat, sash and curved dagger points strongly to a Middle Eastern connection. The Kodavas have no temples or pujaris, they conduct all their religious or social ceremonies themselves, and revere their ancestors. The Kurds of the Zagros and Taurus mountains of Turkey, Iran and Iraq are also known for their proud, fierce and independent nature and have ‘resisted subjugation by foreign powers’ according to the Encyclopaedia Britannica. They seem to be the ideal candidates for the ancestors of the Kodavas. Besides, ‘Kurd’ and ‘Kodava’ have a certain similar ring. That may not be a scholarly, anthropologist’s, view, but we are very happy with it and it does account for much of the uniqueness of Madikeri and its warrior people. Text & photographs by HUGH & COLLEEN GANTZER

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DESTINATION INDIA GOA

Pink & Orange

La Plage

SHACK CRAWL IN

GOA R

ussian mafia, drug and sex scandals, Israeli hippies and dirty politicians. Goa has come to sound more like a Tom Clancy meets Sydney Sheldon potboiler, than the idyllic Portuguese beach town it has been for 500 years. Yet, cocaine coast or not, the one thing (outside of Goa’s infamous “rave parties”), that makes Goa, Goa is that feeling of sitting on a beach doing absolutely nothing. No media blitzkrieg or alien like hippie invasions can really take away from the way a holiday in Goa is ruled first and foremost by your stomach. Then by the sun, sand and sea. And more than a few of cold ones – fresh juice or beer, whatever your preference. Couple the very basic joie de vivre and laid-backness that is quintessentially Goan with vast expanses of (usually) beautiful

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As winters recede, it is time to take the road that leads to Goa. What better accommodation to enjoy the holiday than on the famous Goan shacks!

beaches and sea and you have a winning formula for a holiday. A holiday whose raison d'etre is lots of shack-hopping. Goan shacks are summed up very simply as bamboo structures with a life span of about six months a year. Inside and out, tables are uniformly covered in chequered tablecloths, sun beds are rented (or given gratis) to tourists, and prawn curry, green tea and hours spent staring vacantly into the sea are a staple. In the 60s hippies came to Goa in search of peace and love. While they lived out their days in a lazy, hashish-induced haze, today each beach, North to South is characterised by its own demographic of tourists. Starting from Panjim the city centre and old town, an obvious fallout of the intense commercialisation Goa has seen over the last few decades is the Baga-Calangute-Candolim beach strip.

Baga beach is an ode to the newly monied Indian traveller, with some institutional Goan restaurants. Brave the crowds, the dirty beach, smells of a brackish seaside, traffic jams and if you’re a woman, lots of groping hands, to eat Brittos extremely spicy crab and prawn curries. The best seats in the house are the sea facing ones, and the pork vindaloo is almost as much a reason to come here as the prawn curry. For the weak hearted, you can choose the coconut milk based prawn curry or dry your post spicy dishes tears with a strangely out-ofplace sounding Alpine chocolate mousse. Set up in 1965 by owner-chef Cajie, Brittos is the oldest restaurant in Goa and is now run by his son Cajeten. Over the years its very basic feel has evolved into a resto-bar type shack. Another Goan gastronomic legend

February 2012 GO NOW

La Plage

whose restaurant-shack lines blur often is Souza Lobo. Try the subliminal prawn curry, fried fish, Goan sausages and crab xacuti, in its glorified dhaba interiors. From Baga upward towards Calangute the beach is regularly packed with fully clad Indian families crowded under umbrellas. The more adventurous wear one-piece suits, while most sport uniforms of orange lifejackets. Young and old mill around in shacks that line the beachfront. Near Baga creek the newer Shining Star Shack has some delicious fresh fish from Red Snapper and Kingfish to crabs, all made even better on Mondays – 66

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their weekly BBQs nights. Close by, with nothing African about it, Mark Fernandes’ Zanzibar is an open fronted Portuguese house shack, is packed day and night. Nearby Lucky Star and St Anthony’s Beach Shack are other no-frill options. With a slightly older crew of Goan regulars, Café Roma in Calangute is a shack that patrons have been going to for eons and Flying Dolphin is somewhere you can vegetate for hours. Dig into both shacks Goan dishes, and watch out for a delicious Prawn Vidaloo at Café Roma. To work a meal off and some sweat up,

Pink & Orange

head into the almost always-crowded Café Mambo for some hip-grinding hip-hop, and a surprisingly decent Strawberry Daichiri. Off the beach, right opposite Baga River one name sticks out, the shrouded in white Lila Café and it’s all-day breakfast. Wash down apple pie and croissant, with some delicious coffee. Slightly north, Candolim beach has shacks facing the beached tanker River Princess are slower paced. Both Candolim and Sinquerim (under the shade of Fort Aguada) largely see chartered, tour package groups of middleaged tourists. Just opposite a popular old

DESTINATION INDIA GOA

school restaurant Bob’s Inn, on the main Calangute-Candolim Road a little lane leads to the stumble-upon Oceanic. Run by a matronly lady Stella serves delicious pork curry and banana pancakes. It’s so hidden we couldn’t help with any directions, even if we wanted to! But that’s half the adventure in Goa. Closer towards Mallaya’s famous pad, Kingfisher Villa, an odd sounding but cute resto-shack Calamari Bathe & Binge overlooks the Arabian Sea and Fort Aguada. Served under twinkling lights, their lamb chops are worth writing home about. Towards the northern end of Candolim,

near a rather mediocre Sunny Side Up, one of the few shacks that remains open all year round, stands Bobby’s Shack. While regulars love the food and the very jovial Bobby, recent moves to charge Rs 100 for sunbeds, have quite a few up in arms. On the same beach, Fisherman’s Cove is a shack that’s packed at almost any time of the year. Occupying the other end of the spectrum, elegant beach lounge and party place for Bollywood stars, Club Fresh in the middle of Candolim, makes a noteworthy attempt at Niki Beach style posh. North of Candolim, Anjuna is where the original hippies settled in the 50s. Today, while most have moved to greener (pun intended) pastures, shacks like Curlies continue to fly the Anjuna’s hippie flag high. That, and of course the weekly flea markets. At Curlies tucked into a corner of the beach, the food has gone from atrocious to shockingly good, courtesy the addition of a chef from Sublime, an upmarket Goan restaurant. Renovations have even added Club Curlies to the existing structure, a scary all-bamboo club above the original, now mega-sized shack. Smack inside Anjuna’s Wednesday flea market’s Xavier’s Bar and Restaurant is a nice old school hippie hangout to rest your retail weary feet. Down the beach at Guru Bar, Disco Valley and Café Lilliput offers not much but succour from the crowds at Curlies. The latter also promising yummy mojito for the afternoon, and dusk to dawn parties. Also in Anjuna, Shore Bar run by a local Goan and his English partner is well known for its imaginative menu, excellent fresh seafood and comfy home-like atmosphere, which is now being re-launched as a fine-dining restaurant. A little ahead, Vagator Beach is a scamper down a dramatically stark laterite cliff side. The beach is divided into Big Vagator; the Indian tourist filled main stretch, Little Vagator; the northern Tel Aviv Beach for the Israelis and Ozran or Spaghetti Beach in the south for the Italians. All back dropped by the Chapora Fort. The former playground for some of Goa’s biggest raves Disco Valley is now more famous for Kumar’s local Goan food, and Shiva Place in Spaghetti beach for its super rooftop machan. One of the last refuges of white sands and clean beaches, the Morjim-Ashwem-Mandrem-Arambol stretch, right up to Keri beach, is the northern most touristy beach of Goa. Despite being a bastion for the hordes of invading Russians, this still remains one of

Goa’s more tranquil stretches. Starting from the nape of the Morjim River, Morjim beach once home to the endangered nesting Riddley Turtles, now however only pays homage with its Turtle Beach Shack. Along the beach Montego Bay, Bora Bora, Glav Fish, Gua. Ru, and Shiva Palace are nice for a dip, sun time and passable munchies. While Cafe Bar Susegat is one of the fancier bamboo and palm-leaf beach shacks. A walk down the black rock dotted beach, onto Ashwem and the first sign board to look out for is an inconspicuous blackboard saying PinkOrange. This vegetarian only shack, run by dreadlocked owners Jai and his girlfriend Alex has sandy toddlers running amuck, while their families lounge for hours on bamboo chattais and hammocks. Watch Ashvem’s surreal sunsets flow from pink to orange, while gorging yourself silly on Alex’s salads, juices and dessert. Just down from there Gopal, Here and Now and Change your Mind are Ashvem’s most chiller shack spots, with the sea at its best and the prawn curry at its tastiest. Try Gopal’s brownies post, while checking out cute boutique shops around it. A little further north, a discreet white staircase marks the entrance of one of Goa’s best gastronomic offerings. La Plage’s regulars (including us) have continued their love affair with the chic, billowing mulmul covered French restaurant despite an infiltration by more chi-chi crowds, who make this an essential daily stopover. Deck chairs, soft jazz or eclectic hip-hop and a finger-licking French cuisine make this one of the few places you actually need to reserve in advance. Walking down the beach, Arabian Sea is a large shack, with a beautiful view of its moniker with fancy bathrooms and delicious molten chocolate pudding. If you’re lucky, some evenings see musician guests bring out instruments for impromptu jam sessions. The walk down towards Arambol through Mandrem is one of the loveliest beach walks in Goa, where amongst Arambol’s rocky beaches, Surf Club is the mini party-place-in-a-shack. While Goan shacks throw up an astounding mix of places and vibes, with something for almost everyone, finding your favourite is a bit of needle in a haystack task. Which is why armed with this exhaustive list, we’ve tried to make your shack crawl slightly easier. However, don’t forget rule number one; half the fun is in the hunt. Text by ISHA SINGH Photographs by JUDAS KOMB February 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA GUEST COLUMN

GOLF TOURISM IN INDIA: A TALE OF SUCCESS Brought to the country by the British, the game is slowly making its place in every part of the country, says Vivek Mehta.

ourism as an industry has always been a catalyst in the process of globalisation. However, the reasons to travel have always varied among travellers. With India getting global in every possible sector, there is no reason why sports could have been left behind. Not that sports is a new concept in India, it has its presence even in the Indian mythology; however, what makes it special today is the radical transformation in its treatment. Post the successful hosting of Commonwealth Games in October 2010, India expects an increase in tourist inflow from overseas. The Commonwealth Games have opened a sea of opportunities for increased sports tourism in India. The best part about the globalisation of Indian sports industry is that, it has challenged the presence of some sports and brought them to the fore front, Golf being one of them. The global nature of the game is revolutionising India’s sports tourism. It is needless to say that for many reasons, India is gradually becoming a great destination for golfers. The rise of Golf in India is as interesting as the game itself. Brought to the country by the British, the game is slowly making its place in every part of the country. The common factor between Cricket and Golf is that, both these sports were introduced by the British, and going by the record, most of what was introduced by them in India, was adorned by the Indians, be it tea, cricket and now Golf. Not many people are aware that India was the second country in the world to play golf! Over the years, the Indian golf industry has seen a complete trend change. Where only the rich old men were seen on the greens before, today you will find people from varied age group trying to learn the nitty-gritties of the game. The economic development in our country has led to higher income levels resulting in people’s inclination to include aspirational games like golf as part of their lifestyle. Golf courses today are witnessing strokes from a toddler between the age

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“

Looking at the growth of the game and the increasing golf tourism in India, international golf makers are entering the Indian market.

”

group of 3 - 4 years to a vibrant youngster. You may even witness an elegant young woman flashing her gentle swing with the all new Callaway Solaire kit to a corporate or a celebrity golfer who is always excited to play a better game every time. Not only this, lot of expats have been seen enjoying the game in India and they are bringing a different trend altogether here. Golf has changed the lifestyle of many and a lot of local golfers are adapting the dressing styles of expats. Golfing infrastructure is also improving with the mushrooming of numerous golf courses, driving ranges and academies in different parts of the country. India’s tourism ministry is also making efforts to position India as a golfing destination. According to the ministry, promoting golf as a niche tourism product can help the country showcase its other tourism attractions as well as up the foreign tourist arrivals in off-season. A lot of golf experts of the country too foresee this as an effective move in attracting international tourists. According to them, 52 per cent of travelling golfers are likely to take two or more golfing holidays in a year and they spend on an average 33 per cent more on their holidays as compared to regular holiday makers! Looking at the growth of the game and the increasing golf tourism in India, international golf makers are entering the Indian market, which in turn is attracting even more golfers to India. India is going through a very exciting phase in golf, which led Callaway into making a direct entry into India in 2010.We are also aware that India not only has price conscious customers but also golfers who keep travelling around the world to explore new trends & technology in golf. Being the thought leader, innovation driver and one of the leading stakeholders, Callaway will continue to make investments to contribute in golf’s development in India and I am confident that golf tourism will keep growing here. The author is Country Head, Callaway Golf, India

LUXURYTRAVEL Exclusive focus on luxe experiences on destinations and products in India and abroad

PHOTO COURTESY: EMIRATES AIRLINES

• EMIRATES PAMPERS GUESTS WITH LUXURY • FAT DUCK: BRITAIN’S EXPERIMENTAL FOOD PARADISE • AIR FRANCE TALKS ABOUT THE NEW BUSINESS CLASS • DISCOVER THE OPULENCE OF AMANGALLA, SRI LANKA

A traveller enjoying the meal in his private suite in Emirates Airlines’ First Class

LUXURY TRAVELLER AIRLINES

When it comes to indulgence, Emirates knows how to do it the best... what with the opulent lounges, luxurious pickup and even the amenities. Go Now brings you the first hand experience of how it pampers its guests…

EMIRATES Luxury in the Clouds

t begins with a chauffeur-driven Mercedes for a luxurious transfer to Delhi airport for the Emirates business-class flight to Dubai and then Dublin. Clearly, Emirates pampers its First Class and Business Class passengers from the moment their journey begins. On reaching the airport, first class passengers are entitled to priority baggage handling and fast track immigration on arrival and departure from Dubai. Emirates has 28 lounges including 3 in Dubai. Relax, wine & dine, or avail the facility of the business centre with individual work stations and complimentary broadband and wireless LAN access.

Seating, Comfort & Entertainment The seat pitch in Business Class in A330-200 is 48 inches with a 2-3-2 configuration. We’d say the seats aren’t all that comfortable especially if you are in the middle row. However, the first class in Emirates A380 offers extremely comfortable seating set in a 1-2-1 configuration. The seats convert to fully flat beds. The passengers can also experience the 21.6 inches wide seat cushions, cozy fabric sleeping suits and slippers, down pillows and cotton-lined blankets for a good night’s sleep. The entertainment system is called ICE – Information, Communication and Entertainment. Considering that Emirates has won 70

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LUXURY TRAVELLER AIRLINES

awards for best in-flight entertainment, I had high expectations from the service. Unfortunately, the experience turned out to be a disappointing one. The screens in the row where I was sitting did not work. My experience at the flight connecting Dubai to Dublin wasn’t great either since I did not find the system very user friendly. A380, however, offers improved and quality entertainment system. It scores over with the communication bit. You can stay connected via phone. Emirates was the first airline to offer the AeroMobile service allowing passengers to safely use their own mobile phones to make and receive phone calls and text messages from Emirates aircraft, with charges in line with international roaming rates. Currently, Emirates has 90 aircraft installed with the AeroMobile system, operating to more than 100 destinations.

Emirates Connects Dubai and Dublin Emirates has launched a daily service from Dubai to Dublin to cater to the growing demand from key markets such as India, China, Australia, Thailand and the Philippines. The route is served by a three-class A330-200 offering first, business and economy class travel, as well as having cargo capacity. It is likely to put bigger aircraft such as Boeing 777s and A 380 on the sector very soon. Leo Varadkar, Ireland’s Minister for Transport, Tourism & Sport, said he expects the service to be a boost for Irish tourism, business and aviation. According to Tim Clark, President, Emirates, there is a very strong passenger and freight demand and flights on this sector are fully booked for the next two months already. “India figures prominently whenever Emirates starts a new route or rationalises existing ones. We expect the latest Dubai-Dublin sector to carry a large number of passengers from Indian cities to Ireland via Dubai,” he adds. Emirates operates services to more than 114 destinations in 67 countries. Its Dubai hub in the United Arab Emirates has more than 1,000 flights per week to destinations in six continents. EK0161 departs Dubai at 07.00 and arrives at Dublin Airport at 11.30, with EK0162 departing Dublin at 12.55 and landing in Dubai at 00.25 the next day.

Lounging in the Clouds If you’re travelling in A380 First or Business Class, you have the access to an in-flight lounge situated at the rear of the Business Class cabin on the upper deck. The travellers can access the wi-fi services at any time during their flight. The lounge also offers a fully stocked bar containing premium branded liquors and spirits and a selection of hot and cold canapés and snacks, there are two sofas, and a 42 inch LCD screen showing the aircraft’s position and views from its external cameras.

Meals On-board Instead of breakfast, lunch and dinner served from a trolley at fixed times, you can order from a range of appetisers, hors d’oeuvres, entrées, desserts, fresh fruits and cheeses. The quality of food served is pleasing; not to be missed is the choice of champagne and wines on offer. These differ from route to route. Dom Perignon is served to First Class passengers on routes to all destinations. To enhance the dining experience, Emirates re-

cently unveiled a new range of white Royal Doulton fine bone china. Emirates offers luxurious amenities case in its long-haul flights. You get Bvlgari products in the leather and cloth toiletries case, which includes Bvlgari eau de cologne and body lotion; full-sized toothbrush and small tube of Colgate toothpaste; pocket tissues; roll-on deodorant; plastic fold-up brush and comb. by PURVA BHATIA

February 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVELLER DINING

Sound of the Sea

Hot and cold tea

FAT DUCK The experimental food paradise Fat Duck is one of the four restaurants in Britain that has 3 Michelin stars, it is owned by Chef Heston Blumenthal and has the most experimental dishes one has ever tasted. Like a kid in a sweet shot Nitro Aperitifs

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LUXURY TRAVELLER DINING

ow does one go about reviewing one of the best restaurants in the world? You don’t! You merely narrate and illustrate how you were transported into another world for a few hours. Especially when Heston Blumenthal, nicknamed the mad scientist of food, Willy Wonka is the one responsible for taking you to wonderland. I ate at the Fat Duck 5 years ago and it was one of my favourite meals of all time back then – laughing my way through all 18 courses simply because it was strange, funny, surprising and still so damn tasty! Could it be the same again? Could it? It had only taken me an hour and a half to get through to reservations to make a booking, and what better occasion than my mum’s birthday? Located in the idyllic village of Bray, 2 hours outside of London, the Fat Duck is only one of 4 British restaurants with 3 Michelin stars, the highest accolade given to a restaurant by the food

dust. The waiter then sprayed a citrus perfume above our heads as we ate our cocktail. A few dishes later I began my forest walk by putting an oak film in my mouth, giving, as the name suggests, a slight woody/foresty flavour when the waiter pours water on the slab of moss (left top) and the entire table is enveloped in a mist that smells like a forest after the rain. You can then go ahead and eat the mushroom toast and the jelly with parfait. I love forests and hills and this was a trip down memory lane – it actually does make you visualise a forest, early morning just as the mist is clearing. Remember what I said about the mad Mr. Blumenthal? Surreal! Not only do the theatrics of this dish blow you away, but ones taste buds too are deliriously waltzing to the tune of the Mad Hatter! Next, time for a walk down to the beach...No, seriously! So, whilst listening to the sound of waves

factfile The Fat Duck, Bray, Maidenhead SL6 2AQ. Train takes 1.5 hours from London Paddington, then a half hour taxi ride to the restaurant. Cost per person, £180 without wine, 18 courses Website: www.thefatduck.co.uk

tinned cherry monstrosities clunked in many a display cabinet of a neighbourhood bakery. This is the one and only BFG you EVER want to eat! EVER! Oh, it’s served with kirsch ice cream, and the cherry stems are vanilla pods that have been knotted and dried. (Poor chef who’s got to do that all day!)and who needs a digestif when you’ve got the Whisk(e)y gums? Eaten in the order of: Glenlivet 12 yr, Oban 14 yr, Highland Park 18 yr, Laphroaig 10 yr, Jack Daniels.

Strawberry picnic

Mad Hatter Tea

guide that is regarded as being the most authoritative the world over, and it was also, in 2004 rated the best restaurant in the world, and now stands at number 5. The cuisine is experimental – molecular gastronomy to be exact, of which El Bulli, along with the Fat Duck are pioneers. So here we go, down the rabbit hole... We had a choice of vodka and lime sour, gin and tonic or campari soda for our Nitro Poached Aperitif. Each canister contained the relative aperitif in the form of a mousse, which was then piped onto a spoon and dropped in a bowl of liquid nitrogen to poach. A few seconds later, the crisp ‘meringue’ aperitif was dusted with either green tea (for vodka) or blood orange (campari)

crashing on the sand and sea gulls (there’s an i-pod hidden inside the shell) one eats cured mackerel, halibut and kingfish with sea vegetables, sitting on sand made from tapioca and fried sardines, with the waves made from sea weed stock. Another few dishes down the line it was time for the dessert journey, starting with a Hot and Iced Tea. Left side of the cup is iced tea, right side, hot. Sipped at the same time. Yes. It’s quite mad! With the strawberries came a Jelly and (earl grey) Ice Cream Cornet, even the picnic blanket was edible. A step ahead of perfection! Forget about those Black Forest Gateau’s you had as a child. Those horrible overcreamy, plastic chocolate, soggy cake,

And finally, as you make your way out of wonderland and into reality, a little something to make that transition easier. Petit fours called “Like a kid in a sweet shop” Aerated chocolate, mandarin jelly Coconut Baccy, coconut infused with an Aroma of Black Cavendish Tobacco Apple Pie Caramel, with edible wrapper The Queen of Hearts, she made some tarts... Remember the goodie bags you would get as a kid when leaving a party? *giggle* 5 hours later we emerged slightly dazed and disoriented into the world outside. A visit to the Fat Duck must happen at least once in everyone’s lifetime. Astronomic gastronomica! by PRATAP CHAHAL IN LONDON

February 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVELLER AIRLINES

ow is the seat pitch, how much does it recline and how much leg space does one have?

Air France recently introduced an upgraded business class seat on its long haul flights. Measuring 2 meters (6.5 ft) in length and 61 centimeter (2 ft) in width, the seat can be adjusted into a near-horizontal bed. The seats use the latest technology which allows the passenger maximum comfort.

In terms of more privacy, have you incorporated compartments? Air France seats are built into a fixed shell structure guaranteeing the passenger's privacy. Thanks to the integrated fixed footrest which offers the passenger a more stable sleeping position when adjusted into the near-horizontal bed position, business class seats offer increased sleeping comfort. New relaxation positions, with legs extended, are now also possible including during taxiing, take-off and landing. In short, due to its “enveloping” shell, passengers enjoy privacy

throughout the flight.

What are the features of the kit bag that are given to fliers? Air France business class passengers are provided with an all purpose amenities kit containing travel socks, a sleeping mask, personal cloakroom service, earplugs, refreshing towelettes, toiletries and Clarins moisturizer.

Apart from the flexible eating hours, how does the menu appeal to the India pallet? Garnishing the privileged travel experience with delectable gourmet delights, the Air France in-flight catering takes the passengers on a gastronomic journey by offering a range

of alcoholic and soft drinks along with special menus designed from the Oberoi Group on India-Paris-India routes. Air France has non-stop service during flights. During the flight, for passengers wishing to have a drink, to stretch their legs or to have a chat with a fellow passenger, the Business class bar offers a wide choice of alcoholic and soft drinks. The cabin crew is never very far away to make passengers real espresso coffee. On flights lasting over ten and a half hours, a self-service buffet offering both savoury and sweet snacks is also available. Air France has a modern, international outlook, paying special attention to different cultures, including passengers’ tastes and

Flying Business Class with

AIR FRANCE Pieter De Man, General Manager, Indian Sub Continent, Air France-KLM, speaks to Go Now about how the airline spoils its Indian Business Class travellers with its upgraded seats and excellent food and wines and how it adapts to the Indian culture to give its flyers a true executive class experience!

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LUXURY TRAVELLER AIRLINES preferences. While offering a truly French gastronomic experience, Air France takes care to adapt the menus served on board aircraft in line with the cultural habits and tastes of its passengers. To accompany the meal, a selection of fine wines chosen by Olivier Poussier offers the best from all the French wine-producing regions, whether it’s for well known vintages or hidden treasures! A choice of vegetarian dishes is available on an all flights to Indian destinations. Whatever the travel class, passengers will always be able to choose a vegetarian dish. Menus are designed from the Oberoi Group on India-Paris-India routes. This partnership with Oberoi guarantees a high-quality, authentic

PIETER DE MAN GENERAL MANAGER, INDIAN SUBCONTINENT, AIR FRANCE-KLM

The common ties with India have led the airline to adapt to the local requirements on its product in line with Indian passengers’ expectations. Responding to the cultural diversity of Indian customers through improved welcome and assistance together with a special emphasis on the French art of living, Air France aims to provide a product adapted to Indian culture and traditions.

in-flight catering service for Air France’s Indian passengers.

Which routes is it available on for India? Air France flies from 3 metros – Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru – to the world through a single airport: the powerful hub of ParisCharles de Gaulle. With its partner KLM, passengers can also fly daily from Delhi and Mumbai to Amsterdam.

Are there any special rates for the season? As of date, Air France is offering an approx return fare starting from INR 130,000 to Europe and INR 160,000 to USA from Delhi. Special offers for the season are available on our websites airfrance.in and klm.com. In Business Class, customers enrolled in our frequent flyer programme, Flying Blue also earns faster miles (when travelling in Business class, customers earn the equivalent of between 125% – 175% of the distance travelled, converted into miles). With this come many more other advantages as well!

What would you say is the USP that separates you from any other airline? Is there any particular feature that separates AF from its competitors? The common ties with India have led the airline to adapt to the local requirements on its

product in line with Indian passengers’ expectations. Responding to the cultural diversity of Indian customers through improved welcome and assistance together with a special emphasis on the French art of living, Air France aims to provide a product adapted to Indian culture and traditions. The Air France offer from and to India is currently based around several key concepts – tailored service, welcome and assistance, simple connecting channels, access to destinations worldwide, safety and flight punctuality. To ensure a smooth arrival at Paris CDG airport, on all flights departing to and arriving from India at terminal 2C at Paris-Charles de Gaulle, Air France Indian agents guide and inform passengers in English and Hindi. AIR FRANCE – KLM has been 07th time confirmed as “Sector Leader” for 2011 in air transport sustainability and will keep its place in both the Dow Jones DJSI World and DJSI STOXX Sustainability indexes. AIR FRANCE – A380 Auction: India was one of the beneficiaries of the Air France A380 auction amount which was donated to Plan India. Air France’s donations have been utilised to help build capacities of disabled children at the centre in Sangam Vihar resettlement colony, Delhi reaching out to 200 children. Compiled by PURVA BHATIA

February 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVELLER HOTELS

THE OBEROI GURGAON SETS NEW BENCHMARK FOR LUXURY HOSPITALITY 76

GO NOW February 2012

LUXURY TRAVELLER HOTELS

n less than a year of its launch, The Oberoi Gurgaon has already won the ‘Oscars’ of the travel and tourism business – the World Travel Awards. It has been named World’s Leading Luxury Hotel for 2011. The Oberoi Gurgaon is the first Indian luxury hotel to make it to the prestigious list based on votes cast by 210,000 industry professionals around the world. “This is indeed a very proud moment for us. To win this accolade is an affirmation of The Oberoi Group’s unwavering commitment to offering guests world class facilities and unsurpassed service standards. I accept this

award on behalf of my entire team who work passionately to give our guests warm, personalised and caring service.” said Kapil Chopra, Executive Vice President, The Oberoi, Gurgaon & Trident, Gurgaon. “Awards such as these will encourage more international corporate brands to have their board meetings at The Oberoi Gurgaon,” he added. The awards, given out at a ceremony at the Katara Arts Village in Doha last month, also recognised India as the world's leading destination (staving off the competitors -London, New York, Cape Town, Rio de Janeiro and Sydney), Dubai’s Burj al-Arab as the

leading all-suite hotel, Etihad Airways as the leading airline (for the third year in succession), and Changi as the leading international airport. Launched in 1993, World Travel Awards acknowledge and recognise excellence in the global travel and tourism industry. Now celebrating its 19th anniversary, it is regarded as the very highest achievement that a travel produce could hope to receive. Votes are cast by travel professionals including travel agencies, tour and transport companies and tourism organisations in more than 160 countries across the globe. February 2012 GO NOW

GO NOW February 2012

LUXURY TRAVELLER HOTELS

‘We have Redefined the Hospitality Landscape of the City’ : Kapil Chopra Just after winning the prestigious award, Go Now catches up with Kapil Chopra, Executive VicePresident, The Oberoi Group on what it takes to create a successful and winning formula Tell us what was this award for? The ‘World’s Leading Luxury Hotel’ award recognizes and acknowledges an iconic hotel that has set new benchmarks in luxury hospitality and offers a unique experience to guests. The world travel awards are considered the ‘Oscars’ of the travel industry. This year votes were cast by 213,000 travel professionals including travel agencies, tour operators as well as discerning consumers in more than 160 countries across the globe.

Who were the competitors? There were 22 leading luxury hotels who were nominated along with The Oberoi, Gurgaon for the awards in 2011. These include The St. Regis New York, USA; Burj Al Arab, Dubai, UAE; The Dorchester, London, UK; Raffles Makkah Palace, Saudi Arabia; Bulgari Milano, Italy; Bulgari Resort Bali, Indonesia, and Ritz Carlton Santiago, to name a few.

Comment on the success of The Oberoi, Gurgaon since opening? The Oberoi, Gurgaon opened in April, 2011 and redefined the hospitality landscape of the city and National Capital Region. With its stunning new contemporary design, spacious accommodations and best-in-class amenities and service, the hotel has won accolades and positive reviews since its opening. If we look at the business side, The Oberoi, Gurgaon has been the only hotel in recent times to have topped the RevPar charts in the country in just 6 months since its opening. In November, 2011 the hotel clocked occupancy of 73% at an average room rate of Rs 17,502 and a RevPar of Rs 12,888, the highest in the country. This has been a record of sorts. The hotel has won awards at every prestigious awards function since its opening. We were chosen as the ‘Hotel of the Year’ by Hindustan Times (October, 2011). We were February 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVELLER HOTELS also chosen by Virtuoso network as the ‘Hotel to watch out for’ in their Best of the Best Awards (August, 2011). We also won the Times Travel Awards in October, 2011 and were voted Asia’s Leading Luxury Hotel by World Travel Awards, October 2011. Our restaurants, Threesixtyone? and Amaranta, have both won the best restaurant awards by Hindustan Times.

The Trident Gurgaon has been a trend setting hotel for many years. What has the addition of The Oberoi meant to the complex? Trident, Gurgaon has been Asia’s Leading Hotel and India’s Leading Hotel in 2011. With its scenic, resort-like setting, it is a relief to the Gurgaon landscape as well as an attractive destination for business and leisure travelers. Trident has been a market leader in the

What is this ‘luxury’ quotient that you are courting? Luxury is something you experience, something intangible. The Oberoi, Gurgaon is a hotel that offers a distinct hospitality experience to guests. It is designed on 3 tenets of Height, Light and Space, which we believe, offer a luxury experience. Let me give you an example of space. In Delhi and Gurgaon, you look at any 5 star deluxe hotel and the ratio is 100 rooms over 1 acre. If you look at The Oberoi, Gurgaon it has 202 rooms over 9 acres. This is what I mean by exclusivity and the luxury of space. Some other luxury features include: ■ The most spacious, naturally-lit accommodations along with efficient and personalized service. ■ An urban oasis – a serene setting with over 3 acres covered with a forested driveway,

tasting sessions are also offered at the wine library. ■ Threesixtyone?, our all day dining restaurant features five show kitchens and offers a dramatic dining experience. Our chefs from Sichuan and Canton in China offer authentic fare from their regions while our Japanese masterchef carves platters of sushis and sashimis at the Japanese kitchen. The Teppanyaki grill adds to the element of culinary drama while the large ovens serve hot and freshly baked bread to your table. Guests can also dine on floating teakwood decks over the vast water body lit by fire torches in the evenings. All this makes threesixtyone? an experiential gourmet destination. ■ Amaranta, our contemporary Indian coastal restaurant serves cuisine from nine coastal regions of India. The restaurant also serves fresh seafood flown in daily from the port cities along India’s vast coastline. For a landlocked city of Delhi, this is a unique, luxury experience in dining.

How much is India ready for luxury?

city of Delhi/NCR in Occupancy and Revpar terms. With the success of the Trident, it was felt that there is a growing demand for a luxury experiential hotel in Gurgaon. That is how The Oberoi, Gurgaon was conceived. We now have a 16 acre hospitality destination with two iconic hotels – one with its charming resort ambience and the other a stunning and contemporary hotel with the very best of amenities for the discerning traveler. The two hotels complement each other well. Between both properties, we now have 338 rooms, 11 banquet venues and 5 restaurants. We are able to offer our guests more price points and a choice of room categories, including the most spacious rooms in the city. Within the 16 acres, we are able to enhance guest experience. It is almost like a guest paying for one hotel, but enjoying the experience of two. 80

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gardens and water bodies. Each room and bathrooms offer stunning views of either the reflection pools or the landscaped gardens. ■ Each room has a personal butler service. Our butlers are trained by the Guild of Professional English Butlers, UK. They also train butlers at Buckingham Palace. ■ The City’s first 24-hour spa ensures you always have flexibility of time. ■ Luxury transfers in BMW 7 Series fleet of cars, owned and operated by the hotel. ■ A luxury retail arcade which houses leading international brands, an international salon featuring a hair spa by Italian maestro, Rossano Ferretti and a Pedi:Mani:Cure studio by French Podiatrist, Bastien Gonzalez. ■ We offer amongst the largest wine-by-glass programmes in the city in our restaurants, patisserie and the bar. Complimentary wine ■

Statistics say that luxury market in India is constantly expanding. It is expected to grow at an average of 5 to 10 percent between now and 2013. But if we look around, it seems its growing faster than that! It is just not about the luxury goods market or the brands; it is also about recognizing luxury as something unique and distinct. Something that enhances one's experience and may not be tangible. Also, we must understand that luxury need not be expensive. Discerning guests appreciate ‘value’ more than cost. The Oberoi, Gurgaon, for instance, has all the luxury amenities but it is priced rationally where guests see it as a value proposition. If you compare it to other major cities around the world – New York, London or Paris, you are paying much less (USD $450 a night) at The Oberoi, Gurgaon, for larger rooms, better facilities and a much more unique stay experience. Today, at The Oberoi, Gurgaon, when we quote for international business, we do not compete with hotels in Delhi or Gurgaon. Our global clients have the choice of doing their board or strategy meetings across Asia in Singapore, Hong Kong or Tokyo. We compete in this market and hence this award of the ‘World’s Leading Luxury Hotel 2011’ by World Travel Awards vindicates our positioning further. by NAVIN S BERRY

February 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVELLER RESORT

Aman’s Fort & Beach Journey in

SRI LANKA Amangalla is one of the Asia’s oldest hotels

GO NOW February 2012

28 rooms, chambers, suites offer period charm

Enjoy high tea on the Great Hall’s verandah

From idyllic golden beaches to ancient cities and temples, from rolling tea plantations to wide safari plains to the colonial history of Galle Fort – Sri Lanka is all about diversity. Overflowing with colonial landmarks, in the heart of a 17th century Dutch Fort, rests Amangalla, a historic hotel.

mangalla – The Fort

Galle Fort has been written about for centuries as fabled Serendib’s main trading port of call. As a gateway to the Orient in the 19th century, up to 700 passengers disembarked each day from steamers, thronging the narrow streets and bazaars behind the Fort’s rampart walls to trade in sapphires, rubies, Sinhalese lace, and cinnamon and carved ebony. With parasols and tropical topees in hand, ladies and gentlemen would board horse-drawn carriages only to alight again at the colonial buildings known in 1863 as the Oriental Hotel. Later renamed the New Oriental Hotel and now known as Amangalla, the hotel is one of Asia’s oldest and has been restored to capture the genteel ambience of a bygone era. Located in the heart of Galle Fort, with mature shaded gardens surrounded by frangipani and towering trees, Amangalla is a base for exploring the Fort’s vibrant byways. Twenty-eight rooms, chambers, suites and a two-storey Garden House offer period charm. The hotel allows you to restore your body and soothe your mind. The hydrotherapy pools, steam rooms, saunas and plunge pools join five treatment chambers where trained therapists apply Ayurvedic and traditional therapies. A traditional Barber Shop and Beauty Salon add to the experience. Enjoy high tea on the Great Hall’s verandah or sunset cocktails overlooking the fort.

The Galle Fort region is all about history and diversity February 2012 GO NOW

The Zaal or the Great Hall is the entry point to the hotel

AMANWELLA – The Beach

specialpackage ATTRACTIVE 7 NIGHTS’ PACKAGE Amanresorts offers a stay of seven nights (minimum 3 night stay at each resort). Guests staying for a week will also enjoy daily breakfast and inter resort transfers. Amangalla: 3 nights accommodation, complimentary breakfast, complimentary inter-resort transfers, a tour of the Fort, a traditional shave for him and a sandalwood facial for her. Amanwella: 3 nights accommodation, complimentary breakfast, complimentary inter-resort transfers, a Mulgirigala rock temple tour and Amanwella ‘Beach Buff’ (body scrub) for two. Validity: 10th January 2012 onwards RATES: Amangalla Chamber/Amanwella Suite – US$ 3,850 (Rs 1,96,350 approx.) Amangalla Suite/Amanwella Ocean Suite – US$ 4,375 (Rs 2, 23,125 approx.) Rates are based on double occupancy for seven nights and exclude:

• Supplementary Cost: transfers from Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport are US$ 185++ to Amangella and US$ 235++ to Amanwella, per car each way. Air transfer options are also available for US$ 75 per person each way. • Rates are subject to statutory levy of 16.20% and 10% service tax • Rates and government tax are subject to change without notice • US$ rates are converted to local currency at time of billing. For reservation at Amangalla, 10 Church Street, Fort Galle, Sri Lanka Tel: (94) 91 223 3388 Fax: (94) 91 223 3355 Email: amangalla@amanresorts.com For reservation at Amanwella, Bodhi Mawatha, Wella Mawatha, Godellawela, Tangalle, Sri Lanka Tel: (94) 47 224 1333 Fax: (94) 47 224 1334 Email: amanwella@amanresorts.com Amanwella

A two-hour drive east of Galle brings you to Amanwella. This contemporary beachfront resort is situated in a mature coconut grove fronting a crescent-shaped beach by the town of Tangalle. Paying homage to Sri Lanka’s renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa, 30 air-conditioned suites feature individual plunge pools and private terraces with ocean, beach and coconut grove views. Open on two sides to cooling sea breezes, suites are situated along a hillside and are divided into two categories based on their location and view. Amanwella’s 47m infinity swimming pool is surrounded by an expansive, two-tiered terrace. The Pool Terrace serves alfresco lunch and light snacks. The Restaurant offers stunning views towards the beach and coconut grove and serves Asian and Mediterranean cuisine with an emphasis on fresh seafood. The Beach Club is an alternative venue for lunch and private dinners, surrounded by coconut palms. Enjoy spa treatments in the Spa Suite or in the privacy of your own suite. Excursions to historic rock temples and tours to spot wildlife in Sri Lanka’s national parks are day trip options. Compiled by PURVA BHATIA

GO NOW February 2012

LOOKING BACK

Jaipur Literary Festival 2012

A SERIOUS DIALOGUE ON A VAST CANVAS

Javed Akhtar

ver the years, the Jaipur Literature Festival has turned out to be more than about just literature. It is really a series of dialogues on culture, and on the zeitgeist of the moment. The DSC Jaipur Literature Festival 2012 may have made headlines for the imbroglio that was the Salman Rushdie affair (and the government’s craven surrender to the forces of obscurantism) – and the much-hyped appearance by Oprah Winfrey – but there was plenty else happening at Diggi Palace to keep all riveted. Conversations on the Bhakti and Sufi poet-saints of South Asia (Meera Bai, Kabir),

Oprah Winfrey

February 2012 GO NOW

LOOKING BACK

JLF saw a huge turnout this year.

on the visions of the Sikh poet-gurus, and on that great Persian bard, Rumi, were like a spiritual salve on the strained proceedings. Their voices of compassion could not have been more pertinent to our turbulent times. The organizers dedicated sessions (as they do every year) to vernacular literature. This year, the likes of K. Satchidanandan, Neerja Mattoo, Ashok Vajpeyi, and Tamil writers Charu Nivedita and Bama Faustina (among others), demonstrated that the languages in which they communicate are alive, despite existing in a milieu that places undue emphasis on English. Filmdom wasn’t far behind in Jaipur. Representing the movie industry were independent filmmakers Vishal Bhardwaj, Prakash Jha and Govind Nihalani, and lyricists Gulzar, Javed Akhtar and Prasoon Joshi – proof that films continue to play an essential role in India’s cultural discourse. Gulzar and Javed Akhtar were much sought after for their sensitive, and sensibility-filled, poetry. Not surprisingly, political issues were to the fore. The Arab Spring, still very newsworthy, had a session all to itself, as did the ‘Future of Palestine’ and the ‘Question of Jerusalem’, both seemingly intractable problems. In the latter debate, Palestinian 86

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Gulzar and Pawan Verma Prakash Jha

LOOKING BACK

Shekhar Kapoor

Bina Kak and Jaisal Singh

Prasoon Joshi

Rahul Bose

Suhel Seth

academic and activist Sari Nusseibeh lamented that history was influencing the course of events and coming in the way of peace. On a lighter note, Amy Chua, author of the no-holds-barred and controversial ‘Battle Hymn of the Tiger Mother’, was engaging in describing how she was raised (with “no boyfriends, no dates, no prom”). Chua urged parents to assume “strength rather than weakness in your children,” and “teach them that they are capable of so much more than they think”. But she was at pains to point out that ‘Tiger Mother’ is a “satirical memoir,” not

a “how to guide”. Amish Tripathi, author of the hugely popular ‘The Immortals of Meluha’ (the first in the Shiva trilogy) spoke of the difficulty in appreciating modern India’s political, religious and social landscape without understanding her myths. Tripathi and Ashwin Sanghi – creator of the religious thriller, ‘The Rozabal Line’ – also touched on the thorny challenges of fictionalizing religious figures like Shiva and Jesus. After five days of discussions – at times animated, almost always absorbing – the last word, literally, was left to Richard Dawkins,

probably the world’s best known atheist. And rather appropriate that it was Dawkins on whom fell the responsibility of defending reason, staunchly and rigorously, in the face of obstinate religiosity, during a festival where the jarring notes of intolerance tried to smother freedom of speech. Dawkins was of the opinion that only science was capable of solving humanity’s problems. “Don’t waste time,” he advised. “There is no God.” Text by SHARAD KOHLI IN JAIPUR Photographs by DRIK VERMA

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LAST PAGE

DELHI BY CYCLE

Delhi through the eyes of a Dutchman

ack Leenaars knows Delhi like the back of his hand. Even if you claim to know Delhi as well as him, it is doubtful that you would have driven around town on a cycle like he has. Amazed? Jack, a Dutchman by origin knows the serpentine lanes, the claustrophobic bazaars, the much neglected Yamuna and the villages like Kotla Mubarkpur in Old Delhi like his own. He may not have cycled as much in Amsterdam as he has in Old Delhi. Jack owns ‘Delhi by Cycle’ which conducts cycle tours in Old Delhi and other areas. Jack likes to call it the “cycling street experience”. He did not always have the venture on his mind when he first arrived in India in 2003. He was a journalist by profession and was posted as the South Asia correspondent for his paper. His dream was to travel and travelling for work was the best perk for him. His work took him far

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and wide and he met different people and experienced various cultures. It is when he needed a change and a challenge that the idea struck him and he decided to explore Delhi on cycle. He conducted his first tour on 16th January 2009 and by Jan 2010 he was on his way to setting a successful “experience” as he likes to call it. Ask him why he chose Delhi and he says it is an amazing place and there is so much to explore. He wanted to start the tours on lines of cycle tours that are conducted in most European cities and also in Shanghai. To begin with, Jack started with just three bikes and took them to New Delhi railway station, inviting people to enjoy Delhi with him. The response was positive and that is when his love affair with biking in Delhi began and as the cliché goes, there is no looking back since then for him. Currently, Delhi by Cycle has four tours –

The Shah Jahan Tour, Yamuna Tour, Raj Tour, and Nizamuddin Tour. The Shah Jahan and the Yamuna tour are in Old Delhi, the Raj tour comprises more or less the Lutyens Delhi area and the Nizamuddin tour shows people the new concrete Delhi along with the villages around Nizamuddin, like Kotla Mubarakpur. Prod him on his expansion plans and he excitedly says that there is another tour that he is planning, again in Old Delhi, which would explore the havelis in the old city. He says there are a few havelis that he plans to cover and will start the tour this year during spring time. On expanding the street experience idea to other historical cities around Delhi like Jaipur, Agra and Lucknow, he agrees that these are very lucrative and tempting options to explore but he would not like to venture out of Delhi. He feels that Delhi by Cycle is a very intimate and personal experience and expanding to other cities would make it very cold and distant. It would not have the same warm quality that it has now. On a personal note he says, he wants to spend a lot of time with his family in Delhi and constant travelling would not give him that time. Jack doesn’t reveal what ace does he have up his sleeve but he does concede that he has another idea that would explore Delhi and it would be a new way to experience Delhi. So wait and watch! Talking about Delhi he says to begin with Delhi does come across a rough and tough city but the joy of exploring the old city here is unparalleled. Other cities would not have offered him what he got here. According to him, Delhi is in sharp contrast to anything that he has ever seen in Netherlands or anywhere else in the world. Similarly, he wanted the expatriates to come out of their comfort zone. He says the tour is like an eye-opener for most of the visiting tourists. They are amazed, shocked, stunned, fascinated, and astonished all at the same time. They admit that they actually did not have the guts to come up to this part of the city but they are always very pleased that they did and explored a completely different life. Ask him for that one lasting moment or an event that has stayed with him, till today after all these years conducting the tours and he just can’t come up with one specific incident. According to him, there is just one thing that’s common in all the tours and he calls it “defreezing” of people. When they begin the tour, they are stiff, uptight, even scared to venture into the unknown but few minutes into the tour, they are smiling, talking, enjoying and simply have a fun time. They open up, it’s like they unleash themselves and see a side of themselves that they have never seen before. So, next time you have to gift an expatriate friend something interesting or you want to discover your own city, try these wonderful Delhi by Cycle tours and you will see the hidden beauty in the city. by APRAJITA SHISHOO

February 2012 GO NOW