Go Now January 2012 Issue by Cross Section Interactive Private Limited

GANGTOK

BREAKING NEW GROUND AMAN NATH

PRESERVING THE INDIAN ETHOS plus

Lapland is the destination for a white holiday

We hand-pick Mumbai’s finest wine restaurants

Analysing Accor’s upscale brand, Pullman

THIS ISSUE EDITORS’ PAGE

Dear Readers, We begin 2012 on a rich dose of creativity with some exciting festivals on literature, art and folk that have, without a doubt, put the country on the international scene. The Jaipur Literature Festival has gained the power and acceptance to draw thinkers and litterateurs of international repute including Nobel Prize winners. Its success can also be measured in that it has spawned clones in the sub-continent. If the JLF has set the trend in holding gatherings of importance, in Delhi we have the India Art Fair which now attracts curators and art practitioners of eminence. Indian aviation is among the cheapest in terms of cost per km of flying and we hope it continues that way. The airlines are bleeding even as the government fends off accusations of lethargy. All said and done, we do believe the government should step in and stabilise the sector by rationalising the ATF, among other initiatives, which is among the highest in the world. The sunny side of 2011 was the low-cost carrier Indigo soaring to international heights. We hope that 2012 will see more Indian LCCs touch down at new international destinations. Indians are waiting to discover new places and would like frequent connectivity to more regions – those like South America. In the Indian hospitality market, mid-market hotels are here to stay as they become a standard product, even giving an identity to small towns. Can we nurture the hope that our hotels can become an instrument of the much-needed restoration of Indian heritage and pride, or is this expectation too far-fetched? Read what home-grown hotelier and historian Aman Nath has to say. We add some amazing chill to your already chattering bones with a feature from the land of the reindeer – Lapland, by Amit Pasricha, eminent Delhi-based photographer. Take a breather at luxury airport lounges that keep pace with contemporary designs and colours. The World Traveller flies off to Belfast – a destination made memorable by the foot-tapping Boney M number; we take in the charms of the Swiss Alps with a Swissrail pass and absorb how the Turks plan a turnaround of their tourism sector in the midst of a European downturn. Our luxury travel section sails off on the luxurious Silolona Cruise in quest of remote islands; gulps the bubbly with a slow languorous swivel in the champagne region and bids adieu to 2011 in the luxurious history of the Fairmont Peace Hotel, Shanghai. So, dear readers enjoy and browse through our articles, by experts, on the top Indian and foreign destinations for 2012. We promise that these hot and happening spots will top the travel charts as time flies past and the year unravels itself.

READERS WRITE IN Tryst with the Tiger

Vienna’s Café Culture

I really found the article on the Ranthambore tigers to be really informative. It tells us this story of triumph that one feels on spotting a tiger and the feeling of jubilation that one gets in having a chance encounter with the mysterious cat. It is wonderful to read such stories about cats that are endangered. Waiting for more like these!

While a visit to coffee houses may not be high on a traveller’s to-do list, I have always been curious about these. And that is why I enjoyed reading the article on café culture in Vienna. I have never been there but read a lot about the city. The article brought interesting insights to me.

Varghese Joseph, Ahmedabad

Snow and Ice

Neha Sharma, Delhi

Restaurants & More

It really came as a surprise to me to know about this form of sculpturing. Ice sculptures at the Snow and Ice festival at Bruges was a wonderful article about a unique form of art. The intense detailing required in making and preserving the sculpture in its form really intrigued me.

I am a regular reader of your magazine. I like the changes made in the magazine. However, would suggest you should include more articles on eating out and lifestyle in different cities India and abroad. While there are hotel reviews, it would be interesting to read about the local culture of a destination.

Hemal Mehta, Ahmedabad

Gagan Sharma, Delhi

Editor: Navin S Berry Senior Editor: Rahul Kumar Assistant Editor: Purva Bhatia Business Development: Sudhir Sood Design: Ashok Saxena, Neelam Aswani Go Now is published and printed monthly by Navin Berry on behalf of Cross Section Media Pvt. Ltd. and printed at Rakesh Press A-7, Naraina, Phase II, New Delhi and published from IIIrd Floor, Rajendra Bhawan, 210, Deen Dayal Upadhyay Marg, New Delhi - 110002. Tel: 91-11-43784444. Fax: 91-11-41001627, 41001628. E-mail: info@crosssectionmedia.com This issue of gonow contains 104 pages plus 4 pages cover

drop us a line Like something we wrote? Wondering how to get somewhere? Or been to a place you want to talk about? Write to us and let us know. Don’t have the words to describe a place? Don’t worry – send us your best travel pictures and we’ll let them speak for you. If your letter or photo is published, you will get a year’s subscription to gonow absolutely FREE! Send your letters and photographs to E-mail: info@gonow.in info@crosssectionmedia.com Material not used will not be returned

January 2012 GO NOW

GO NOW JANUARY 2012

WORLD TRAVELLER 10 Travel Buzz: 12 Michelin Stars for Mandarin Oriental Restaurants 12 Destination: The best time to visit Ulster, Ireland is now 16 Photo Essay: Lapland is mysterious wild and beautiful 20 Feature: Explore Switzerland on a train

TOURISM CONNECT 26 Indian Experience: Torch bearers of the Indian ethos in the tourism experience 32 Hospitality: India’s Growth Story continues to drive mid-scale hotels 34 Aviation: Losses mount despite robust market growth 37 Neighbours: GMR forges aviation connect to Maldives 38 Heritage: Sumda Chun Monastery gets UNESCO award 40 Success Story: Turkey tourism grows despite economic crises

DESTINATION INDIA 44 Trends: Check out top 2012 destinations in India 46 Bekal: Taj Vivanta opens, further enriching the region 48 Gangtok: Breaking new ground 52 Munnar: The green getaway 56 Mumbai: Goblet & gourmet grandeur 62 Mussoorie: The 73X5 destination

LUXURY TRAVEL 64 66 68 70 72 76 80

Airlines: Business class on American Airlines Trends: What’s hot in 2012 Airlines: Turkish upgrades its business class Airports: Munich Airport VIP lounge is all luxury Cruise: Sail with luxury yacht Silolona Champagne: Say cheers to the wine region Stay: Fairmont Peace Hotel, Shanghai

HOTELSCAPES 88 90 92 95 96 98 100 102 2

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Hotel Check Out: Ferrnhill Royaal Palace, Ooty Ista Amritsar: Brings new standards to the city Trends: How hoteliers see growth in 2012 Guest Column: Dr Pratap Chauhan on spa therapies Brand Analysis: Pullman is for the tech-savy News: Capt. Nair receives lifetime achiement award Restaurants: The Great Kabab Factory’s recipe for success News: New hotels come up

On the

COVER Young monks at Enchay Gompa, Gangtok Pix: S.T. Wangdi

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POSTCARDS JAIPUR

Jaipur Literature Festival

THE KUMBH MELA FOR WRITERS

he DSC Jaipur Literature Festival that begins January 20-24, 2012, has been called the “most fabulous literary love-fest on the planet.” The festival, which keeps growing in size and themes, will this year focus on a variety of issues including the Bhakti and Sufi traditions, the Arab Spring that still has the world in its thrall, our own mover and shaker Anna Hazare, as also Gandhi and Ambedkar. The other eclectic issues that the festival will debate include vegetarianism, censorship, writing from conflict zones, theatre and many others. Over 200 speakers will participate in the festival including Deepak Chopra, Fatima Bhutto, Gulzar, Hari Kunzru, Amish Tripathi, Ben Okri, Jason Burke, Javed Akhtar, Thant 4

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Mynt-U, Tom Stoppard, David Hare and many more fiction and non-fiction writers. The editor of the New Yorker, David Remnick will be present. The fest will also have reports from the Arab Spring and will discuss the art of writing for stage and screen. Festival Co-Director William Dalrymple said that the “fascinatingly interwoven relationships of Tolstoy, Tagore and Gandhi,” will also be dissected. Asia’s leading literary event will not just have literature and personality-dissection. It will also encompass a wide range of activities including readings, live concerts, music from across the globe, fire-eaters and dancers, Rajasthani musicians as well as performances by the Bauls. Festival Co-Director Namita Gokhale said “The Jaipur Literature Festival

20-24 JANUARY 2012 JAIPUR

nourishes narratives and nurtures a vibrant literary community. Once again, this coming January, our festival will generate and give voice to the marvelous and spontaneous energy that has become its hallmark.” The DSC Jaipur Literature Festival is free for the general public. An online registration for visitors has been introduced to ensure better management at the venue. Registrations for DSC Jaipur Literature Festival 2012 are now open for delegates and the media and more details can be gleaned from http://jaipurliteraturefestival.org/ registration.

POSTCARDS AHMEDABAD

Inernational Kite Festival

WHEN GUJARAT COMES ALIVE

n modern times, though kite flying is essentially associated with seasons and religious festivities, it is also gaining popularity as a sporting event, paving the way for kite festivals on a grand scale and size in different parts of the world. Gujarat hosts one such mega event, the International Kite Festival each year which has proved to be a major public attraction, evoking universal fascination. Coinciding with Makar Sankaranti, when the sun enters the tropics heralding the beginning of warmer months after the winter season, the International Kite Festival brings throngs of people onto building terraces and open spaces to fly kites. One of Gujaratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most participatory festi-

vals, it draws expert kite-makers and flyers not only from within India but from abroad too. Kite enthusiasts from Japan, Australia, Malaysia, USA, Brazil, and Canada and from Europe, bring along with them their creatively designed large range of designer kites, decorated kites, stunt kites and numerous other kites. The home made kites which battle it out with foreign labels take around three months to make and entail an investment of anywhere between Rs 5,000 and Rs 5,00,000 depending on the material used. Made with a lot of dedication and ingenuity, each kite has the needed aerodynamic skill. Over the years the deceptively simple kite flying has been honed to the level of an art form, virtu-

10-15 JANUARY 2012 AHMEDABAD

ally becoming a religion in itself. The kite-flying day in Gujarat is an extraordinary day full of fun, frolic and gaiety. From dawn to dusk, people of all ages fly kites rejoicing in the spirit of the day. On this day no one in Gujarat is a stranger to the other. Colours change in the sky as fluttering kites appear like a rainbow. Ephemeral shops and bazaars and kite stalls in thousands spring up for marketing kites, the manja and other accessories. With milling crowds thronging these areas, they are a big bit with people. For more information visit www.gujarattourism.com January 2012 GO NOW

POSTCARDS NEW DELHI

India Art Fair

IN A NEW AVATAAR

he annual art-lovers’ affair the India Art Fair (IAF) which was earlier known as the India Art Summit, does not merely have to contend with a name change. It is also relocating itself to the NSIC Exhibition Grounds in New Delhi and brings along names famous in the international art circuit. The 4th edition takes place from 25-29 January 2012. Founded in 2008, the IAF is India’s premier art festival and a pioneering platform for modern and contemporary art in India. It has attracted more than 1,70,000 people over its first three editions, pitchforking it to one of the world’s most attended art fairs. IAF 2012 will feature 91 exhibitors from 20 countries presenting the creativity of 1,000 modern and contemporary artists across a 12,000 sqm space. This year’s event will see a significant increase in participation of blue-chip galleries 6

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and leading artists from around the world. Some of the main galleries participating for the first time include Hauser and Wirth from the UK and Switzerland; Galleria Continua from Italy and White Cube the UK. The Lisson Gallery from the UK will be exhibiting at the fair for the third time. European modern artists will include Marc Chagall, Salvador Dali, Jean Miro and Pablo Picasso. Contemporary artists of international renown include Marina Abramovic, Antony Gormley, Mona Hatoum, Damien Hirst and Anish Kapoor. Nearly 57 per cent galleries are from Asia including India, while 26 per cent are from Europe and the remaining 14 per cent from North and South America, the Middle East, Africa and Australia. A major achievement for this IAF is the involvement of strategic partners including Absolut, Financial Times, Sotheby’s, Harley Davidson, Office Panerai, the Conde Nast Group and

25-29 JANUARY 2012 NEW DELHI

over 50 specialist art publications from 15 countries. Of wide interest to many visitors will be the Speakers’ Forum Programme, that has free entry for the public. International speakers include artists, art historians, critics, curators and entrepreneurs. The organisers hope that the free of charge Speakers’ Forum sessions will encourage wider participation from the public. Also, not to miss will be the collateral events including exhibitions, parties and other public events across the city. For more information, visit www.indiaartfair.in

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POSTCARDS KOLKATA

Apeejay Kolkata Literary Festival 2012

CELEBRATING TAGORE AND FAIZ

he third edition of the Apeejay Kolkata Literary Festival from 11-15th January 2012 will have a significant representation from neighbours Pakistan and China along with new ideas from the West – France, Germany and USA. The first literary festival of 2012 will celebrate 150 years of Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore and 100 years of one of the most famous Urdu poets of the subcontinent - Faiz Ahmad Faiz.

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The fest will witness the participation of several eminent personalities such as actor Naseerudin Shah; renowned Pakistani painter, artist, writer and daughter of Faiz Ahmed Faiz, Salima Hashmi; award-winning Chinese author Bi Feiyu as well as Kiran Nagarkar, Naresh Fernandes, Mukul Kesavan, Sunil Ganguly, Deborah Baker, Urvashi Butalia and many others. The five-day festival invites everyone to celebrate the spirit of books and literature’s

11-15 JANUARY 2012 KOLKATA

links with music, art, and film with the finest creative minds in the nation. Events have been scheduled at various historic sites and also at India’s finest and most loved heritage bookstore – Oxford Bookstore, Kolkata. For more information visit www.kolkatalitfest.in

WORLDTRAVELLER

PHOTO COURTESY: SWISS TOURISM

Discover the world with our updates on destinations, airlines and experiences

• TURKISH AIRLINES UPGRADES BUSINESS CLASS • TIME TO VISIT ULSTER IN IRELAND • FOR A WHITE HOLIDAY HEAD TO LAPLAND • CHECK OUT SWITZERLAND BY TRAIN January 2012 GO NOW

TRAVEL BUZZ

Rasoi by Vineet, Mandarin Oriental, Geneva

Sense, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo

Mandarin Grill + Bar, Hong Kong

12 Michelin Stars for Mandarin Oriental at its 10 Restaurants Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group honoured in 2012 Michelin Guides - ten restaurants and a total of 12 Michelin stars.

ore good news for the Mandarin Oriental Hotels. And, diners have even more reason to frequent the group’s signature restaurants, as they crown themselves with more glory and awards. No fewer than 10 restaurants from the Mandarin Oriental hotels stable have been honoured in the 2012 Michelin Guides. In Asia, Mandarin Oriental has a total of six Michelin stars in Hong Kong alone. The Group’s flagship prop-

erty, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong is now the only hotel in the city to have three Michelin starred restaurants. Man Wah – the hotel’s premier Cantonese dining room, headed by Chef Man-Sing Lee, achieved its first Michelin star in the 2012 Michelin Guide. The restaurant delivers authentic Cantonese dishes with inspired creative touches in surroundings of Imperial splendour. Pierre, which features the bold cuisine of multi award-winning, three

About Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is the award-winning owner and operator of some of the world’s most prestigious hotels and resorts. The group now operates, or has under development, 41 hotels representing over 10,000 rooms in 26 countries, with 18 hotels in Asia, 12 in The Americas and 11 in Europe and the Middle East. In addition, the group operates, or has under development, 12 Residences connected to its properties. 10

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Amber, Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong

Michelin starred chef, Pierre Gagnaire retained its two Michelin star status, while the Mandarin Grill + Bar, a Hong Kong dining institution, where artistic Executive Chef Uwe Opocensky serves a modern interpretation of grill classics and the city’s finest seafood, also retained its one Michelin star. In addition, Amber at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, also maintained its coveted two Michelin star

status. The restaurant features the innovative and exhilarating cuisine of talented Chef Richard Ekkebus. At Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, Signature (serving contemporary French) and Sense (Cantonese) maintained their single star status: Signature for the fifth time, and Sense for the fourth time. In Europe, Dinner at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London gained its first Michelin star less than a year after opening. Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona, which opened in 2009, maintained its one star status at Moments restaurant, headed by the renowned chef Carme Ruscalleda and chef Raül Balam in the Spanish Guía Michelin.

The Michelin Guide Michelin has been in the business of evaluating and recommending restaurants and hotels for over a century. They employ full-time professional inspectors who anonymously visit restaurants and hotels, and evaluate them on a range of criteria, using an evaluation process that has been honed over time to identify consistently high-quality establishments to suit a range of budgets and across a range of styles and cuisines. At Mandarin Oriental, Geneva, Rasoi by Vineet has also maintained its coveted one star status in Michelin’s 2012 Guide for Switzerland. In Munich, Restaurant Mark’s under the direction of Executive Chef Simon Larese, also retained its one Michelin star status.

For further details please contact in India Indiva Marketing at telephone 0091 22 6638 7261 or 7362 ridheema.singh@indivamarketing.com or shahfreen.elavia@indivamarketing.com

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM IRELAND

WORLD TRAVELLER DESTINATION

THE ULSTER CONNECTION

Leaving decades of strife and a ‘troubled’ history behind, Northern Ireland has emerged as one of the most visitor-friendly regions in Europe. Whether it’s for the buzzing nightlife, art, literature and music scene in Belfast, the white surf and dramatically scenic settings of counties Antrim and Down, or some of the world’s best golf courses, there has never been a better time to visit Ulster. 12

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Royal County Golf Course. (Facing page) Carrick a Rede Rope Bridge. (Below) Belfast mural

“L

ove is important, better than hate any day,” counters Billy. We’re standing in front of Belfast’s famous ‘Peace Wall,’ one of the more prominent barriers which separates the once-hostile nationalist Falls Road and unionist Shankill Road areas of West Belfast. I’ve seen too many protestations of love deface national monuments in India and am squirming at the thought of doing the same here in Belfast. But I relent, as do thousands of tourists who rove through Belfast’s once ‘troubled’ neighbourhoods: the wall is full of messages of love and peace. Billy knows what he’s talking about: as a resident of Belfast, Northern Ireland’s capital city, he’s seen suburban working class neighborhoods like Shankill (where we’re standing) witness decades of bloodshed and violence between the Protestant Loyalists and Catholic Republicans. The peace wall which separated the two warring sides in the volatile 1970s still stands as a grim reminder of that time. It’s not the only one: West Belfast’s walls are big canvasses for murals, paintings and graffiti from ‘The Troubles’ (as the civil strife came to be known). It’s difficult to visualize the acrimony. People in Northern Ireland seem to be born with

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Belfast is a delight for food and drink aficionados. Standard ale is Guinness, served to brimming point, and the seafood is some of the best in Europe. For a taste of the local fare, walk down to the Mourne Seafood Bar in Belfast city center. The Belfast Castle has a museum as well as an excellent restaurant, perfect for a day in the sun. If you’re driving from Belfast to county Down, stop for lunch at the famous Balloo House for outstanding food and a relaxed ambience. St. George’s market, where the locals shop for groceries and food products, is a great place to connect with the residents and pick up some local produce. If you prefer a tour in a London ‘black cab’, enlist the services of Billy Scott (ph: +44 (0) 7798602401). The tour takes two hours and costs £30 for up to three people, or £10 per head for four or more people. For more information on events and places to see, visit www.discovernorthernireland.com

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THE TITANIC SHIPYARD The Titanic tour is a fascinating insight into how the big ship was built, and also into the Irish psyche which buried all memories of the Titanic like a national disgrace. Ken, who’s showing me around, says that pride gave way to shame in Belfast when the ‘unsinkable’ ship sank. “But that’s what happens when you give a ship to an English captain and a Scottish navigator,” he says with typical Irish humour.

Titanic Dockyard 14

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a civil humour and politeness which you encounter everywhere: on the streets, in pubs, in hotel lifts… people go out of their way to say hello, crack a joke, ask how you’re doing and where you’re from. Just a day into Northern Ireland you’re smiling back at strangers, feeling decidedly at home. ‘The Troubles’ finally ended with the ceasefires of the 1990s. With the return to normalcy, Northern Ireland has blossomed, and Belfast has grown into an urban cosmopolitan city. Yet in little less than an hour of driving, the paved streets make way for country roads that wind through the famous glens of counties Antrim and Down-the rolling pastoral fields look like God’s giant golf course. Here, you can play your way along the coast from one links course to the other, with a few parkland layouts, too. Most of the links are packed into a long strip along the Atlantic Ocean front. Besides the world famous Royal County Down and Royal Portrush (which require prior bookings), the best way to go about playing golf here is to have no fixed plans. Playing at Portrush in particular, flanked by the Portrush village on the coast, is postcard stuff. County Antrim’s verdant glens sweep downhill from the marshes of a volcanic pla-

teau to the sea. Considering that the Irish Sea brims over into the North Atlantic twice a day, flooding the low lying marshes, people have historically had a tough time making their way across the moors. The historical isolation of the region has contributed to the pristine and preserved landscape, small pretty villages untouched by modern life, and a strong sense of community. Wandering off the beaten track can be very rewarding (a car can be rented for as little as £20 a day). The city has a distinct architectural character which comes from the 19th century industrial boom, when shipbuilding was one of the primary industries. The Titanic, along with her sister ships the Britannic and the Olympic, was made in the city’s shipyards (see box 1). Even when it’s raining and the streets look empty, Belfast’s pubs are abuzz. The Queen’s Quarter has a vibrant nightlife, with some of the city’s funkiest bars, comedy venues, and pubs with live music and traditional Irish music sessions, within easy walking distance of each other. The annual Belfast Festival at Queens has a range of theater, dance, music, literature and visual arts, and is the largest of its kind in Ireland. Visitors can even opt for a formal introduction to the city: there are guided tours to Beacon of Hope cater to every interest-historic pub tours, open-top bus tours, boat tours along the shipyard, and walking tours. The literary walking tour is full of interesting snippets from the lives of Louis MacNeice, Seamus Heaney, C.S. Lewis and Jonathan Swift (who apparently got the inspiration for writing Gulliver’s Travels from a rock formation called the ‘Sleeping Giant’, which overlooks the city). Right now, religious and political affiliations have been obscured by concern for livelihood. Even though Northern Ireland (which is part of the United Kingdom and uses the GB Pound) has fared much better than the adjoining Republic of Ireland in the aftermath of the recession, people are working longer hours to cope, and the tour-

Fitzwilliam Hotel

factfile STAY HERE FITZWILLIAM HOTEL Located in the Belfast City center, the Fitzwilliam is classy and luxurious. Dine at ‘Menu by Kevin Thornton’, the award winning restaurant in the hotel. Tariffs: Rooms: £85 to £165; suites: £175-£195 MALMAISON HOTEL Built in a converted old seed warehouse, the Malmaison Belfast combines period features with the best of contemporary style. The décor and feel of the hotel is Gothic-if you can afford it, then stay at the premium rock ‘n’ roll suite. Tariffs: Rooms: £145; suites: £205 to £310 BUSHMILLS INN The village of Bushmills, home to the Bushmills distillery, is just a 10-minute drive from the Royal Portrush Golf Club. The fantastic Bushmills Inn has been a must-stop for visitors for more than a century. The inn offers top-of-the-line accommodation, an award-winning restaurant, and a bar ensconced in traditional luxury. Golf apart, the spectacular Antrim Coast is worth a trip on its own accord. Check out the Dunluce castle, the Carick-a-rede rope bridge, and the endless miles of pristine beaches. The numerous coves lining the coast are an angler’s delight. Tariffs: Classic mill house: £118 to £138; mill house: £148-£168; duplex suite: £198-£218; junior suite: £258-£398

ism industry is throwing up great deals for travelers. It’s not a cheap travel option, especially for an Indian visitor. Nor is it a quick getawayto get to Belfast, one has to take a connecting one-and-a-half-hour flight from Heathrow. But given the current downturn in hospitality rates, it’s about as good as it can get. Text & photographs by MERAJ SHAH

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WORLD TRAVELLER PHOTO ESSAY

Lapland

MYSTERIOUS, WILD AND BEAUTIFUL 16

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A local in traditional Lapp dress harnesses a sled to his reindeer.

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The Snowland Igloo Restaurant at Rovaniemi. And, yes there is always reindeer meat on the menu !

hen winter comes to Delhi bringing with it its smog, allergic coughs and sniffles, as also delayed flights, most of us pack our bags and head for a sunny beach. But you could choose instead to travel due North to embrace a true, primordial winter, to a place that freezes your nose but warms your soul. Far, far North where the ice freezes nine feet thick, deep inside the Arctic Circle, is Lapland, the northernmost province of Finland. A place mysterious, wild and beautiful. Barely populated, where reindeer outnumber people by a hundred, and trees outnumber them by a thousand, and the landscape looks like it hasn't changed since the last Ice Age. Not long ago, these snowbound extremities of our planet were places we only saw on National Geographic Chan18

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nel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; today itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a seven hour flight from Delhi! Finnish Lapland is the ultimate winter getaway. You can snow-mobile over frozen lakes, zig-zagging through the Taiga firs. Snowmobiles are pretty much motor-cycles on skis and a much-loved sport in these parts. They're fairly simple to drive and snowsafaris are hugely popular. Or you could head out in the general direction of the North Pole in a husky-drawn sled. Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes are big, powerful Siberian dogs, with jaws that could snap a limb like a breadstick, but they are really as affectionate as puppies. Or you could take a ride on a reindeer-drawn sled warmly wrapped in furs. You could make a pit-stop to light a fire, skewer a sausage on a stick and roast it over the embers, while coffee brews in a sooty kettle. A smoky, charred

Shopping in Rovaniemi

Santa lives and works in a village at Rovaneimi; he is assisted by a contingent of Santa's Little Helpers.

sausage with a thick squeeze of mustard, washed down with strong, sweet coffee – it’s the finest dining in all Europe. You could stay in a wilderness cottage with a wood-fire in your room and your own private sauna. There is nothing to beat the experience of running out of hot-stone sauna, rolling naked in the snow and rushing back in. That’s how they do it in these parts! All this gives you an appetite you never suspected – an appetite for traditional salmon soup mopped up with the local hard rye bread slathered in butter, a sirloin of smoked reindeer, a side of roast elk and a dessert of Lapp berries. Accompanied by an elegant ice wine. Outside your cabin window is the glowing peace of the Arctic twilight, and perchance the cosmic magic of the Northern Lights. The Lapland landscape is truly conducive to magic – at Rovaniemi just on the Arctic Circle, is the village where Santa lives and works with his contingent of hard-working elves – baking ginger-bread men, sorting through and replying to letters from children from across the world, wrapping presents and delivering them far and wide on a sled drawn by Rudolf, Donder, Blitzen and the gang. The beautiful Ice Maiden, last seen in the Hans Anderson fairy-story, now bartends in a sub-zero ice bar in Rovaniemi! Winter in Lapland is a season of shining ice-sculptures and ice-architecture. At Kak-

slauttanen, shrouded in the Arctic silence, you could sleep in a heated glass igloo and watch the snow fall as you snuggle in your soft bed. Or you could spend the night in a real snow igloo, enfolded snugly in warm goose-down. Outside, the polar bear and the lynx roam a frozen world, just as they did aeons ago when the Earth was young. text by BHARATI MOTWANI photographs by AMIT PASRICHA

factfile Getting There: Finnair operates 7 direct flights a week from Delhi to Helsinki. From Helsinki, Rovaniemi is a 1 hr. flight. The 800 km journey can be made by an overnight train. For local travel there are taxis. Climate: All interiors are heated to T-shirt temperature. For outdoors, safari operators provide caps, boots and overalls which you slip over your jeans and sweat-shirts. Best Time to Visit: Winter usually begins in Lapland in mid October and lasts about 200 days. Above the Arctic Circle the land experiences ‘polar night’ or kaamos for part of the winter. Snow lasts from November to around mid-March. Lakes freeze at the end of November. The coldest time in winter is at the end of January, when the temperature may drop to -45 or -50°C. So November–December and February-March is the best time to visit Lapland.

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WORLD TRAVELLER FEATURE Our ratchet train, climbing through the mountains. (Bottom) Horse-drawn vehicles await passengers at Zermatt Station.

Pictures in a Moving Window

TRAINING SWITZERLAND

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WORLD TRAVELLER FEATURE

t’s by far, the most effortless, efficient, free-wheeling way of seeing this beautiful land. Make your own itinerary; change it; linger longer; flee when you like. Yet you can always be sure that your new schedules will work out to the minute. Most important: you don’t have to spend a cent of your foreign exchange to travel whimsically all across Switzerland unless you want to soar up mountains in trains! So pack your bags, pick up a good guide book, get your travel documents, buy a Swissrail Pass in rupees from a travel agent and woosh!... as the ad says... to Zurich. At the current rate of exchange, an 8-day 1st class pass will cost Rs 36,300, the equivalent of 511 Euros; a 2nd class pass of 320 Euros will set you back Rs 22,750. There’s a Swissrail station at Zurich airport connected to every one of its stations webbing the whole of Switzerland. Swiss trains leave and arrive on time, to the minute. There are clocks on every platform so you know exactly when you train will leave and when it will arrive. If it’s a big station, the next train will be along fairly soon and its departure time will be indicated on a board.. The clock starts ticking on your ticket from the first time the conductor punches it. If you’re planning a fairly long and play-it-by-ear itinerary, it might be advisable to buy more than one pass so that your train days are not consumed while you’re off the railway line! But, and here’s the exception to the Swisspass rule, the very special mountain trains, that clickety-clack along steep cog-wheel tracks, are privately owned. You’ll have to buy their tickets separately but they’ll give you a 50% discount on you Swissrail ticket except the one that soars up to the Jungfraujoch. That offers a 25% discount so you’ll have to pay an additional Rs 7,763, that is 180 Swiss Francs less 25%. The experience of riding the rails to this high, ice-and-snow, station is well worth the additional expense. We went to the 3,454 meter-high peak from the beautiful lake town of Interlaken. Interlaken is our favourite Swiss destination: a beautiful, hand-holding, strolling town. Not that the other towns are not hand-holding, strolling towns, but this one is special for us. Why? We don’t know: it just feels special. We boarded a Swissrail train from Interlaken Ost station, then changed at Kleine-Scheidegg, and entered the smaller Jungfraubahn cogwheel train. It was a magical journey. The

little red train climbed out of the lowlands, through dense forests which could have been settings for a Grimms Fairy Tale. In fact, at one point, we saw a little old man sitting in the next compartment. He was dressed in green, had pointy shoes, a grey beard and a red stocking cap. He looked like a forest gnome and we rushed back to get our cameras. Sadly, when we returned he had vanished even though the train had not stopped in between. We described him to the conductor when he came to check our tickets. He nodded and said “Ja! Ja! There is the possibility that he could have gone to the toilet. Or, on the other hand, there is also the possibility that he was Rumplestiltskin. Ja?”

circular complex above. It’s a wondrous place on multiple, glass-enclosed, levels with its restaurants, souvenir shops, post office which franks letters with the assertion that it is the highest post office in Europe.. Deep inside, we walked through the heart of a glacier with eerie ice-sculptures around us. Inside, we realized that that we were walking through a frozen river that is moving slowly but deliberately. A couple who were with us opted for another fantasy. In the photo studio they then donned ski outfits and were photographed.. . The mock-skier outfits seem to be very popular with fellow Indians. Two couples stepped out on the terrace, when snow was falling lightly, and had themselves

The Golden Pass train is an excellent way to see Switzerland

The thought that we might have met the legendary man who could spin straw into gold delighted us till the train stopped and a group of young Japanese skiers trooped in tracking ice all over our compartment, smiling, apologising and bowing like charming marionettes. We had crossed the snow line. This is a remarkable train. It entered a long tunnel, stopped midway and all passengers were asked to detrain and get incredible views through windows cut into the rocky heart of the mountain. The train then changed direction. A head count was taken to ensure that no passenger had been left inside the cold mountain. Then we clicketyclacked higher and still higher, drew into the station of Jungfraujoch, caught a lift to the

framed for posterity: ‘Had a fabulous skiing holiday in Jungfrau!’ Tourism is all about dreams, even if you can’t realize all of them. The trip to Jungfraujoch is thrilling but it isn’t the steepest. That honour goes to the Pilatusbahn: the one that climbs up to the famed Dragon Mountain. From Lucern we crossed Lake Geneva by ferry, walked a short distance from the landing and boarded the train at Alpnachstadt, clinging to a steep track. We rumbled from lakeside through rising conifers, past alpine meadows dotted with picturesque chalets, crept along frowning cliffs and gradients of 48*, entered a vault of a station scooped out of solid rock, trod up a flight of steps to a sunlit complex with January 2012 GO NOW

SWISS TOURISM

unfolding views of the peaks of Switzerland, Italy, Germany and France. We strolled through the caves once, reputedly, the lair of benign dragons. They gently nurtured a lost and injured mountaineer and flew him back home. They even dropped a healing stone which is now displayed in a museum in Lucern though people generally prefer antibiotics and MDs. Possibly hurt by the growing indifference of the citizens of the town, the dragons flew away never to be seen in these parts again. But we felt as ravenous as they must have been. So we gorged on a tempting buffet presided over by a French-Portuguese-English speaking chef from Africa and urged on by our long-time friend, the charming Colette Richter often affectionately known as The Dragon Lady, Our third mountain-rail trip was in the cute Marmottes Paradis train from Montreux. It took us to Rochers de Naye where there is 22

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an alpine garden with living plants from the high-lands around the world including our Himalayas and those of Mongolia. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve also built huge pens where the large, rabbitlike marmots live and breed. They were as inquisitive about us as we were about them. Near the first of the pens, and just above the railway station, are the Swiss versions of allweather Mongolian yurts. An official sent to Mongolia to bring back some marmots, also returned with a genuine, Mongolian nomadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s felt yurt. The innovative Swiss examined it, took it apart, re-created its clones in tough, wind-and-cold resisting materials, and installed them here. Visitors who have spent the night in them claim that theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had an unmatched experience, particularly when they saw moonrise atop the Marmot Mountain, after the tourists have left on the last train down. The restaurant here is accessed through a tunnel bored through rock and

Stopping at one of the stations scooped out of the rock.

In the comfortable panorama coach of the Glacier Express.

housed in a glazed chamber scooped out of a cliff. It gives eagle-eye views of the mountains falling away to the distant plains below. It’s convivial, their fondue is excellent and it’s best washed down with draughts of Enzian schapps made from the roots of a shrub which grows in the Alpine garden. Clearly, the Swiss love their mountains. Equally obviously, they are not awed by them. This is what makes their scenic trains like the Glacier Express and the Golden Pass routes so breath-taking. When they come to a mountain, they don’t go around it: they go through it. When they reach a gorge, they don’t wind down and then up again, they go across it on bridges that look as delicate as cobwebs but are as strong as the Swss franc. They also have panoramic coaches with enormous picture windows and even skylights so that you can look down into the deep gorges falling below and also up to the white-crested mountains

towering above. You feel as if you are soaring on the wings of an eagle while still being comfortingly ensconced in you chair. Thrills and reassurance, perfectly matched. We rode the spectacular Glacier Express route to the quaintly beautiful town of Zermatt. The only motor vehicles here belong to the doctor and the sanitation department. We were received at the station by a horsedrawn buggy and spent the rest of our stay walking, dining, window-shopping for cuckoo-clocks and Baltic amber, dining, making friends with other strollers from around the world, dining. ‘Why so much dining?’ you may ask. Well, all that cold air and walking builds up an appetite. ‘Then why all that walking?’ Because after those long, cosseted, rides on trains we definitely needed to walk, didn’t we? Text & photographs by HUGH & COLLEEN GANTZER

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISMCONNECT Bringing together diverse stakeholders of the national tourism product

BUNGALOW ON THE BEACH, TRANQUEBAR

• AMAN NATH ON PRESERVING THE INDIAN ETHOS • MID SCALE HOTELS PIGGY RIDE INDIA’S GROWTH STORY • LADAKH MONASTERY GETS UNESCO HERITAGE AWARD • INDIA CAN LEARN FROM TURKEY TOURISM

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT INDIAN EXPERIENCE

Torch Bearers of the Indian Ethos in the Tourism Experience Go Now catches up with Aman Nath, who along with his friend and partner, Francis Waczierg, was the first modern to discover the traditional in tourism and hospitality. Their Neemrana ‘non-hotels’ are now 17 strong across the country. An exclusive interaction with Aman, as he shares his perspective that his is, “at best”, a whitehaired voice of wisdom, from a more heightened hindsight which historians are perhaps trained to develop about the march of time as it races on.”

GO NOW January 2012

TOURISM CONNECT INDIAN EXPERIENCE

hen we say we must promote the Indian experience, what do you think is missing

and why?

AMAN NATH CO-FOUNDER, NEEMRANA HOTELS

I think that the arrival at Mumbai airport, which Rajeev Sethi is doing, will answer that question, for that experience will be much better – and Indian – than the ‘walk-in’ at New Delhi. Efficiency is one thing, but it must be ‘concealed’ within the Indian framework, if necessary, to play its part. We are not Germany or Japan or even Singapore to asepticise our environs in such a dull way. Our hotels are all being ‘Singaporised’ and made too clinical. That could have been left to the hospitals, if we had to go that route. Once this is done – the complete ripping of the Indian aspect of our texture, colour, patina – the structure itself, becomes soul-less. Interior decorators then begin to salvage what they have so consciously destroyed in the first place. They then begin to bring in the colours of the street and its popular culture! At the other extreme, lie other dangers.

Bungalow on the Beach Tranquebar, 17th Century

“This is not Neemrana Hotels sitting in judgement over the titans. I have no such authority – aesthetic or moral. I have never thought of myself as a restorer-hotelier more than or above being an Indian! I speak as an insider who would love to see both the government and industry on a fast Indian track – not just derailed to an unknown destination by hoteliers, architects, designers whose Indian soul has fled them. How can tourism alone hide the shame of being Indian when the government does not take any blame – and oneupmanship or escalation of the standards of luxury seem the only role models of the tourist industry?”

What is the historical lesson of too much luxury and refinement? We can’t go about our lives not knowing the answer to this question! Historically, the Versailles process leads to revolution and decapitation. Do we, in the hotel industry want to take the onus of the time bomb on us? Hotels are, in our context, like factories for those seeking employment, but when this is rarified too much and the rich become so esoteric, then the walls between the Haves and Have Nots must fall on the Haves! This should not come as a surprise. What purpose do royal titles serve now towards this social integration process, but fluff ? Royals who believe in the titles of their ancestors as His Highness, Exalted King of India, Great King of Kings, Sarmad i Rajah i Hindustan, Raj Rajendra Shri Maharajdhiraj etc,etc are not on this planet at this moment in time. In history, the titles have always grown in inverse proportion to the power!

If the Government has got its development and infrastructure priorities wrong, has it got the tourism pulse right? It is a great failing of the government that they have hounded out the multipliers of wealth in India so as to not let them join in and partake of the joys of the whole development process of India. By policing them as if January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT INDIAN EXPERIENCE they were guilty of their initiatives and their enterprise – something the government themselves lack in good measure – the wealthy have become the ostracized lot whose celebrations have now descended to much baser things like the most expensive watches and cars that do not merit being driven in our deprived countryside. The government needed to encourage and inspire this. Dr Manmohan Singh could have been the second Gandhi, but not with a host of tainted men who have a completely different and opportunist purpose for being in office! I do not believe that it is ever too late to catch the fancy of India’s wealthy, by evoking their inherent philosophical wisdom and stoking it towards development. But they can’t remain the guilty doers when the government does not admit to its incompetence in not being able to raise Bharat to India! Sadly, 64 years is a long time of slumber or pure incompetence. There was a Bombay Plan drawn up by Dr John Matthai in 1944 and signed by six of India’s prominent industrialists of that time to be the world’s first socialist plan drawn up by capitalists! To take on rural infrastructure and development hands on. That would have set up a healthy competition amongst industry and given them a sense of ownership and joy in seeing India shine – or bring shame, if they didn’t measure up. But the government clung on, trying to please all, badly, as they watched the gap increase. When will our government’s feudal mindset stop ‘owning’ the country and making its doers not feel like interlopers? Orson Welles wrote, “In Italy, for thirty years under the Borgias, they had warfare, terror, murder, bloodshed but they produced Michaelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and the Renaissance. In Switzerland, they had brotherly love, five hundred years of democracy and peace, and what did they produce? The Cuckoo Clock.” By this measure, our government has truly been a catalyst of creativity, challenge and innovation generation. But sometimes I think that they should give us just a little less of this for real, and just put their hands on our backs. Even that would be better than holding the same hands as toll barriers and obstacles in every direction.

Do you think we are suffering from lack of Pride in things Indian? And how can the industry and 28

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TOURISM CONNECT INDIAN EXPERIENCE

Neemrana Fort-Palace Rajasthan, 15th Century

Government start reversing this process? Yes, it’s odd, but after over six decades of freedom and liberation, we are again letting our psyche be ensnared by all that the West has created and consumed for its unhappiness. Why should we follow any of the failed models of unproductive thinking from Russia or of any excess from USA or Europe? We have enough civilizational substance to lay on our table and invite the world to dinner. Why are we forever being emulative or derivative? This can only come from some deep rooted but unexplainable complexes – totally irrelevant in the world context and seeing India’s rising position today. You remember the great ambience of the Taj Hotels when you walked into an Indian lobby? Remember the great days of Dubbey Sawhney – JRD’s sister, and Liz Kerkar? Then even the Taj became tired of India and began to make a mish-mash. The Oberoi began with an international look, then cosmetically Indianised it when the feedback was not so good. But now they too think that the international experience in India is more important than an Indian branding. Why should anyone want all the luxury brands staring you in the face when you enter The Oberoi in New Delhi? Would they rather not have an updated version of the Sona Shops which HHEC flaunted in the 1970s, with a host of Indian crafts? All the marvels of Laila Tyabji, Jaya Jaitley and a huge lot of super creative Indian designers that The Conran Shop, Zara Home, Habibat, Yves Delorme and others care to hunt down here and showcase abroad ? Whatever happened to the great Khazana shop in the Taj Mahal lobby in New Delhi ? It’s all become a wishy-washy Kashmiri shop sort of merchandise. Why can our product brands also not be sustainable? Taj and Oberoi – and now even ITC – are great Indian brands as hotels – they can’t be lazy to not flaunt INDIA through their merchandise. Fortunately, the Park is trying to do something in this Indian design direction. Emporio is another example of a displaced pride flaunting the irrelevant for India, and seeking approval from the top society. Once that happens, the middle class also seeks the same and it becomes a self-destructive Indian cycle. This is more dangerous than it appears on the surface. It holds the nation’s aesthetic aspirations to ransom. ‘If the rich do it, it must be right!’ Then the countryside of HaryJanuary 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT INDIAN EXPERIENCE ana and Kerala think they too have arrived, when they make hilarious copies of our warped urban Indian aspirations.

Why does this mindset show up more in hotels, or is it part of the larger national pysche? Can you begin to understand the logic of why you would first hire someone to make the most un-Indian of buildings on the Delhi skyline, keeping out any obvious hint of India and then spend an equal amount of energy and funds to hire interior people and artworks to bring symbolic Indian images, revived in a rather contrived manner, to evoke that very aesthetic you were so busy obliterating in the first place? It sounds absurd to me that we should try to achieve our guest experience by the long-

Your non-hotels are more a rural countryside phenomenon. How do you keep them intrinsically Indian? Unfortunately, today the countryside also ‘visits ‘the cities, and is aspirationally deflected and deranged on false and irrelevant routes. It is all part of the eternal complex that we are half and someone from the outside will come and complete us. All our education is geared that way. If all philosophy begins in Athens and ends in London, then what happens to our much wider worldview and wisdom? The world sees it today, but we only see it when they do. How much of India is attracted to yoga as the West, which comes seeking. Its just a humbug that we practice it. Our logistics of eking out a living in India make us all acrobats and agile yogis – not any intrinsic spiritual search.

AMAN NATH CO-FOUNDER, NEEMRANA HOTELS Why should almost all our big chains need to outperform themselves into big debts – to impress who? Tourism is not just a showcase thing in ivory towers. Taken seriously, it can be the national turnaround for all the obscure corners of India. Ours is such a miraculous nation full of surprises. You just have to get people there in comfort and some speed. Inaccessibility is not a plus point, though new hidden destinations can be worked with. The Tourism Minister needs to be empowered to become the powerhouse of revenue – someone whom the Finance Minister should look at with incredible wonder and awe – after all he/she is someone who can draw revenue from every corner of the country.

er, unnatural and artificial route – still by employing a foreign hand, when or country has its own growth and design trajectory stretching back continuously and unselfconsciously at the level where India has no complexes. Why should India re-coil back to this inferiority complex some six decades after being seemingly rid of being colonized? This is a strange, new re-colonization, a part of our national mindset, which must spring from a more deeply and unconsciousness colonization of our psyche. 30

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Our Neemrana ‘non-Hotels’ are Indian, what else would anyone expect when they come so far? And it is easier to keep them Indian than to bend over backwards to please the design fads of the moment. Wait two decades, and all those who were swept off their feet to ‘impress’ the world only on its terms – totally alien to India – will find their efforts so dated! They won’t know why they did this stretch to undo their own civilisational legacy. It’s Umrao Jaan or My Fair Lady?

Is the country ready for more such enterprise? Every such non-hotel, after all, means genuine employment, empowering the poor and the rural folks? The country has long been ready since Tagore’s Shantiniketan and Mother India or Pather Panchali. The countryside is yearning to be empowered. But the danger is that aspirationally, progress in India only means matching up with the West – on its terms! Japan managed better: by maintaining a parallel track and it kept a double measuring rod too. We only slid to double standards and emulation as the sole measure of success. Not many people in the government are philosophically wise either to see the merits of the Indian model. They go abroad to learn to ape. When we shall appraise ourselves with our evolved hindsight, it will be too late to knock down all our white elephants – the derivative hotels – that we would have built by then.

At your hotels, how much of your staff is from the countryside. How do you train them? Is there some special message to them to remain ‘themselves’ and to keep retaining their local hue? Is there any special effort towards bringing local colour within the compound walls? We employ locally. Ideally, it’s not like a nonfamily posting as in the army. But then local means that the Rajasthanis broadly work at Neemrana, and the Kumaonis in Ramgarh, but our plumbers have almost always been from Orissa – just as the nurses of Kerala can’t be put under the MRTP!

How much of your Tijara experience would be the same in other states? Sadly, complacence keeps back the motivation to innovate or act in states where tourists/ guests come more naturally. They don’t realize that if they kept their hands on our backs, or just removed the hurdles, even if they can do little else, that would be the greatest help. But if the state and Central governments cannot succeed with their own inter-department efficiency with any admirable speed, where do we supplicant-citizens stand in a mock-socialist, feudal-democratic, psychophantic durbar of a government? Where are the ministers, MLAs, babus anywhere near being the servants of the people. Each can hold an independent darbar in which anyone from Mr Ratan Tata to the inconspicuous like us,

TOURISM CONNECT INDIAN EXPERIENCE really sets out from their home to re-experience the sameness of their home environment.

Do we have private enterprise willing to hark back and grow projects rooted in the soil of India? Or, do they believe that a modern glass structure of 40 floors is a more impressive testimony and statement that they have arrived?

Hotel De L’Orient, Puducherry, 18th Century can be summoned, much to the glee of others. In the atmosphere that post-independent India has created, pulling down people seems our secret joy. But the media, which is much blamed, has in recent times, also taken on the onus of protecting the unnecessarily harassed. I think that the government mentality remains much the same, but they can only get away with a certain amount now. When things get out of hand, it can be addressed in other forums – though at the cost of much loss of time, resources and energy.

Practically speaking, the government has often spoken of a single window clearance for hotel projects? Is this a fantasy or can it become a reality? Finally, do you think the government is really serious in creating tourism infrastructure? No, the government can try and will continue to try hard or just in show, but the answer does not lie with them, alas. There can be no continuity of vision or action, as the people must float around. If you had a Tourism Secretary forever we would begin well as Nehru did and

end as badly as Nehru did. In the private sector you have different checks and balances. It’s not yesmanship, but performance and the survival of the dynamic and alert. Bureaucracy is propped up and totally subsidised and made so secure that alertness cannot be expected. It’s like giving Van Gough the poshest 7-star suite and then told to produce his Sunflowers. Blinkered behind a double layer of curtains, he could only dip deeper into darkness !

Where do you fit/place your nonhotels within the larger hospitality industry context? We are a speck, or perhaps a dust grain on the Indian horizon. But, as a movement, it can blow into a positive storm – the way people contact us weekly for the Neemranification of their properties. If there was the right government attitude and encouragement, just Francis Wacziarg and I could make India that amazing land, where every two hours you could drive into a Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ Hotel, and come back bewildered with the diversity of India, not with the fake opulence of sameness of that irrelevant international experience. No traveller

We used to have! And I am sure we can do it again if India Inc can recognize that they are taking India off track in the game of escalation as the only role model of India’s hotel industry. I was told that the Vilases were born out of the snubbing of Mr PRS Oberoi by the Maharaja of Jaipur. Like Biki was provoked by the indifference of Bhawani Singh Jaipur, G.D. Birla had told Francis Wacziarg and me when we did our first book on the frescoes on the Marwari havelis, that he had been similarly discriminated and insulted in an Englishman’s office. This had become the moment of provocation to stand up, act and outdo the offender. The Oberois would have done a superlative job with Jaigarh, as Biki had envisioned. But the Maharaja just wouldn’t make up his mind and made him wait and return, so he got it into his mind to outdo him. This indeed he did, but the Maharajas who had been made redundant by history – was not a role model to be followed too far in India. The Trident is an admirable model. I am a historian by education, and must never lose sight of the long view. It strikes me that the Brahma-Vishnu-Shiva trinity are part of the company and family cycle too. Broadly, one person ‘creates’ an unproportionate amount of wealth with vision and enterprise; the second generation then has the onus of ‘preserving’ it. When the third arrives, it naturally become decadent and ‘destructive’. This is Nature’s plan. We must be conscious of this, atleast in India. Also, that there is the philosophical conquest, a spiritual space that Gandhi and his langot so effectively demonstrated in the historical theatre of the world. When someone in the tourism arena will evolve to that level and is able to deliver that as a refined Indian hospitality product, India will win hands down on its home ground. With much less effort too! Simplicity has been our forte, not excess. Otherwise, the Greeks, Romans, Egyptians would still have been around, and we would not have been the only living civilization of the world. by NAVIN BERRY

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT HOSPITALITY

MID MARKET BOOM India’s Growth Story Continues to Drive Mid Scale Hospitality Chains Across the Country Carlson Hotels was the first foreign chain to make inroads in the Indian market. Today the chain is 47 hotels strong across its various brands and aims to have at least 100 hotels by 2015.

arlson has been aggressive with its growth in India. How do you see the growth in the next 5 years? India is an important market for Carlson. We were one of the first international operators to establish a presence in the country. We are the largest international hotel operator with 47 hotels in operation across four brands: Radisson, Park Plaza, Park Inn by Radisson and Country Inns & Suites. We see the hotel inventory growing exponentially over the next 5 years. By 2015, we will more than double our current portfolio. Our aim is to continue the strong growth momentum in the future and have a strong representation of our brands across the country.

K .B . K A C H R U Executive Vice President, South Asia, Carlson Hotels Asia Pacific

India is an important market for Carlson. We were one of the first international operators to establish a presence in the country. We are the largest international hotel operator with 47 hotels across four brands: Radisson, Park Plaza, Park Inn by Radisson and Country Inns & Suites.

What is your view on the midmarket segment in the country? Do you think it is getting saturated? The hotel market is still maturing in India and the potential for mid market segment is immense. Majority of the operators have focused on the upscale segments until recently. The mid-market supply in India is currently very small and the demand and supply gap is vast. India currently has only 1 hotel room for every 1,000 inhabitants as compared to 0.2 hotel rooms for every 1,000 inhabitants in China.

What is the update on your luxury brand, Regent Hotels in India? There were some announcements but we haven’t heard anything on that front as yet. What is the potential you see for luxury hotels in India? Carlson sold the Regent brand almost 2 years ago to focus on its 4 core hotel brands – Radisson, Country Inn & Suites By Carlson, Park Inn by Radisson, Park Plaza and develop them to be segment leading brands. We believe that the potential is in the mid-market segment given 32

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the burgeoning growth of domestic tourism.

What are the group’s expansion plans in the country? We are focusing on establishing our brands across India’s key regions and cities, including secondary cities. We opened 15 hotels in 2011 and these are major business and leisure locations such as NCR, Coimbatore, Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Goa and Agra. Our focus is to have more than 100 hotels across India by 2015 representing all our brands.

development in NCR alone. Being the capital of the country and having South Asia’s largest airport, the city’s demand for quality hotels will be on the rise. It is therefore important to have strong differentiated brands with unique value proposition so that our hotels will continue to appeal and attract customers.

How is India contributing to the group’s overall revenues?

NCR seems to be the focus area for the company. But with so many hotel chains in the market, how do you see the growth of your brands?

With 47 hotels under operation and 45 hotels in the pipeline, India is a key market for Carlson. Currently, India represents about five per cent of our global portfolio of hotels, but it accounts for more than 20 per cent of the development pipeline.

We have 20 hotels in operation and under-

How are you selling your overseas

R The Lounge at Radisson Blu Hotel Delhi (NH-8)

properties to the Indian outbound? How is this market growing for you? India is an important outbound market and is growing exponentially with greater consumer spending power. We have a global sales team operating in India that caters to Indian outbound travelers. We have invested in launching Radisson’s ‘Discover Blu brand campaign’ which includes advertising on key media platforms in India to raise awareness of Radisson Blu. We have also put in place a strong web strategy that will increase our online presence and drive bookings for our hotels beyond India.

There is a great degree of brand segmentation in the market today. Hotel chains have their own range, categories that define economy, midscale, extended stay, upscale and luxury and these in turn extend into spa resorts, golf resorts and eco-friendly resorts. Isn’t the consumer getting confused? Is such segmentation justified? Consumers are becoming sophisticated and discerning in choosing which hotels to stay in. This means that hotel brands need to be even more differentiated and unique in their value proposition to appeal and attract consumers. Segmentation also enables hotel brands to market more efficiently and effectively to consumers and the brands can then

tailor their value proposition to meet the specific needs of the consumers. Having a wide range of brands in portfolio means that hotel groups can target different market segments with varying demands and needs.

What is your prediction for the coming year? With Indian economy going through a slow period, with the political scene not being too conducive to business, do you see a fall in business travel? How will this impact your hotels and the industry in general?

including establishing multiple locations in metro towns.

To what extent is the growth of Radisson and the mid market hospitality industry being led by the growth in Indian economy? Our growth is certainly linked to the overall growth in the economy. However, infrastructure development has major impact on the development of overall Tourism infrastructure.

Is there a direct co-relation between the two?

Like any other industry, the travel industry witnesses ups and downs of business cycles. The travel industry has undergone many challenges and it has proven time and again that it is resilient and it can be back on its feet in lesser time. In view of the possibility of the impact of the American and European financial situation, travel demand and hotel rates may come under pressure in the short term. However, we remain optimistic especially with the growth of domestic travel driving demand in India.

By now you have a spread that goes across emerging business cities, tourist cities like Goa – how do you see the comparative growth in numbers between Indian business and foreign business? Indian domestic business and in particular Mice is growing at a faster pace. However gateway cities are still largely dependent on foreign arrivals.

Carlson Worldwide Restaurants is present in the country through a joint venture and has its brand TGIF in India. What are your future plans in the restaurant business?

I am in total agreement – but this would largely impact mid market sector. Upscale and luxury hotels will continue to be dependent on foreign corporate and leisure tourism.

We are growing and adding new locations

There is a feeling that foreign tourism will soon become an icing on the cake. The big emerging cake is the Indian traveller. What do you feel?

by NAVIN BERRY

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT AVIATION

ndia’s loss-making aviation sector, facing its most critical phase in almost a decade, enters 2012 facing its most critical challenges since the advent of the 2004 industry reforms. The paradox of India’s airline sector is that it serves one of the world’s fastest growing economies and is posting double digit traffic growth, yet CAPA estimates Indian carriers combined will lose USD2.5 billion in the 12 months ending 31 March 2012. This is on total revenues of just under USD10 billion – a worse than FY2008/ 09, when traffic was declining and fuel prices spiked at USD150/barrel. In the domestic market, India's airlines lose USD 25-30 every time a passenger boards an aircraft. This situation has prompted unprecedented intervention by the Prime Minister, who has outlined a 12 point agenda upon which the Ministry of Civil Aviation must report every month.

Policy Paralysis and a Slowing Economy a Poor Combination

OUTLOOK 2012 Losses Mount Despite Robust Market Growth Every time a passenger boards an aircraft, the airline loses US$ 25-30, a reflection on poor industry economics and government regulations, says CAPA.

GO NOW January 2012

The outlook for the operating environment in 2012 is not encouraging. India’s economy has slowed noticeably in the last two quarters and GDP growth for this current fiscal year is likely to be closer to 7% than the 8.5-9.0% forecast at the start of the year. With increasing concerns about the direction of the global economy, India’s growth in FY2012/13 could possibly dip below 7%. This is a rate of expansion that most economies would envy, but it falls short of the government’s own targets and of the growth needed to achieve the government’s employment generation and poverty alleviation objectives. Negative global economic sentiment, led by the financial crisis in Western Europe, is only partly to be blamed. India's slowdown has largely been driven by internal factors, primarily a government at the centre that has been plagued by corruption and governance scandals. These have diverted attention from implementing the reforms needed to modernise the economy, directly frustrating investors. Capital has consequently been fleeing the country, depreciating the Indian rupee by almost 20% since Sep-2011. For the airline industry, the result is higher costs of fuel, aircraft leases and maintenance.

Air India Monopolising Government Attention. With No Solution in Sight, it is

TOURISM CONNECT AVIATION Actually Creating the Problem A lack of reform within the aviation ministry itself – without a dedicated minister since Jan-2011 – has heightened paralysis at the macro level. For almost the entire year Mr. Vayalar Ravi, Minister of Overseas Indian Affairs, had the Ministry merely tacked onto his main role. His almost exclusive obsession with Air India caused policy inertia, seriously damaging the entire industry. Perhaps the most retrograde decision has been to grant Air India first right of refusal on private carrier applications for international traffic rights. These national assets – in the form of bilateral entitlements – are thus being viewed

gets worse: to generate cash flow, Air India is pursuing a suicidal taxpayer-funded commercial policy, discounting fares that private carriers are forced to match. Here is the main cause of the losses posted by the industry, taxpayers’ money being used to destabilise private sector airlines. Passengers have enjoyed a temporary consumer surplus, benefiting from cheap airfares, but an unviable sector is not ultimately in the interests of the travelling public.

Government Needs to Focus on Industry Viability and Safety Meanwhile, the government visibly contin-

KAPIL KAUL Country Director, CAPA India

Mr Ajit Singh’s task is to create an environment that will allow airlines, and indeed the broader aviation industry to become viable. Even airports and general aviation operators are struggling. The solutions are relatively easy to identify, but the weak link is the political and bureaucratic will.

through the prism of a seriously bankrupt company. Air India has limited capability to operate new routes, meanwhile blocking private carriers from doing so. As has happened so many times before, the only winners in this scenario are the foreign airlines from whom Air India is being “protected”. Despite the pre-occupation with Air India, the airline has no turnaround plan. Its sole strategy is to spend up to USD1 billion annually in government subsidy throughout the coming decade – as much as the entire national higher education budget. Why is this necessary when there are perfectly good private sector operators ready and able to offer air services? This is simply beggars belief. It

ues to micro-manage issues such as the rights of airlines to sell exit row seats or charge for additional checked-in luggage. Seasonal increases in demand which result in higher fares trigger scrutiny by the regulator – yet there is no intervention in the case of predatory pricing. If airlines cannot charge higher fares during peak season to counter losses during the leaner months it is simply not possible to maintain a viable operation. And quite clearly the losses incurred by the industry indicate that airlines can hardly be accused of price gouging. Rather than focusing on micro issues, the Ministry of Civil Aviation’s objective should be to create an environment which recogn-

ises and supports industry viability and competitiveness. The sector must be in a position to operate safely and efficiently, delivering sustained and reasonable profits and covering its cost of capital.

A New, Dedicated Minister of Civil Aviation is a Positive, but he Faces a Challenging Task On 18-Dec-2011, Mr Ajit Singh took over Mr Ravi’s civil aviation responsibilities. A dedicated minister is a positive development, but a change of leadership at this critical time means that uncertainty will persist, especially in the absence of a clear strategic framework for the sector. Mr. Singh’s task is to create an environment that will allow airlines, and indeed the broader aviation industry, to become viable. Even airports and general aviation operators are struggling. The solutions are relatively easy to identify, but the weak link is the political and bureaucratic will.

Traffic is Expected to Continue to Grow Strongly, but Financial Recovery will be Slow Recovery, particularly for the full service carriers: Air India, Jet Airways and Kingfisher, will be slow. India's airlines have approximately USD16 billion in debt, including outstanding payments to vendors, of which USD 6-7 billion is for aircraft-related loans. Air India’s debt will increase by a further USD 4 billion if it proceeds with plans to purchase its order for 27 Boeing 787s, generating an annual interest burden of USD 1.25-1.50 billion. A combination of low fares and sustained high costs, thus make sustainability unlikely. Several expenses have been out of the control of the airlines, fuel for example has been at elevated levels for almost 12 months, general inflation in India has been at close to double digits, airport and ground handling charges have been increasing, and a shortage of skilled labour means that wage pressures are mounting. Under these challenging circumstances India’s airlines have struggled to raise capital. Aside from Air India’s equity infusion from the government and a preferential shares issue by SpiceJet, plans to raise in excess of USD1 billion from capital markets have been deferred. The situation has been made more difficult by record low market caps for the listed carriers – several carriers have immediate financing requirements greater than their current market cap. Aircraft financing has January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT AVIATION

CAPA’s India Aviation Outlook 2012 will provide the most detailed insight into the direction of the sector at this most critical juncture. Coverage includes: Forecasts for 2012/13 ●

Traffic, capacity and yields ● Profit and loss projections for each carrier ● Fleet induction plans and expected new orders ● Airport growth prospects. AIRLINES Strategic plans of all scheduled airlines ● Outlook for full service and low cost business models in India ● Bilateral policy and international route development ● Scenarios for global alliances in the Indian market ● Capital raising prospects and aircraft financing plans ● CAPA risk assessment of airline finance and operations ● Prospects for new entrants, particularly regional airlines ● Performance of and prospects for foreign carriers. ●

AIRPORTS Status of airport modernisation programs ● Greenfield airport development projects ● Projected timeline and implications of Navi Mumbai Airport tender ● Expected developments with airport charges and their impact on fares and traffic ● Regulatory settings at the Airports Economic Regulatory Authority ● Strategic direction of the Airports Authority of India ● Investment in air traffic management infrastructure ● Prospects for the ●

also dried up and carriers are increasingly turning to leasing to finance their aircraft deliveries. Heading into 2012 airlines will continue to struggle to raise equity and will need to take on additional debt, further eroding viability. Banks have become a critical pillar of the aviation sector – to date they have provided invaluable support to Air India and Kingfisher Airlines, but in 2012 they are likely to be called upon by even more carriers, increasing their aviation exposure further above the current USD6 billion. The 36

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corporatisation of air navigation services ● Financial analysis of the leading airport operators. REGULATORY ISSUES ● Likely impact of the new leadership in the Ministry ● Expected direction of the New Civil Aviation Policy ● Progress against the Prime Minister's twelve point plan ● Status of the formation of the Civil Aviation Authority ● Prospects for foreign airline ownership in Indian carriers ● How are airfares likely to be regulated. OUTLOOK FOR ANCILLARY SECTORS ● Maintenance, repair and overhaul ● Business and general aviation ● Cargo and logistics ● Ground handling operations ● Skills and training. CAPA India will be releasing a detailed report outlining a roadmap to ensure the long term economic viability of the Indian aviation sector reviewing policy and regulation, fiscal issues, airline and airport financials, evolution of business models, efficiency of infrastructure and the role of financiers and investors. CAPA India can also provide custom advisory and research services to organisations with interests in Indian aviation.

negative impact on the balance sheets of Indian public sector banks in particular could create a political issue in itself.

Poor Government Policy Means Airports also Face Financial Challenges Meanwhile, private and state-owned airport operators continue to struggle. The operators of Delhi and Mumbai Airports have invested USD5 billion in modernising these facilities but the revenue collection has been less than

expected due to the economic regulator not permitting a dual-till framework, while the Supreme Court ordered both airports to cease collection of Airport Development Fees from passengers, pending approval by the Airports Economic Regulatory Authority. The state-owned Airports Authority of India (AAI), which has 125 airports under its control, of which around 75 handle scheduled services, is also in a state of financial distress. CAPA estimates that airlines have accumulated approximately USD240 million in outstanding payments to the AAI, which meanwhile continues to face significant capital expenditure commitments to support its extensive airport modernisation programme – creating a cash crunch for them too. The AAI's complex business model which includes managing the largest portfolio of airports in the world under a single operator, investing huge capex in airports which are largely loss-making and the provision of air navigation services, will come under increasing pressure in 2012.

Solutions are Obvious, Implementation is More Problematic The government can easily take immediate steps to assist the sector. These include reducing the punitive sales taxation on aviation turbine fuel; permitting foreign airlines to acquire up to a 26% shareholding in Indian carriers (a proposal now before cabinet); approving private carrier applications for international rights; removing restrictions on ancillary revenues; and obliging more rational pricing by Air India. In the longer term, the focus needs to be on creating a well structured policy and regulatory framework and on enhancing the efficiency of the nation’s aviation infrastructure, particularly airports and airspace. The fundamental drivers of aviation growth in India remain strong and it should emerge as the third largest market in the world within five years. But this will require important decisions in 2012 by government and operators alike to position Indian aviation as a safe, efficient and viable sector. With just two years to go until the next elections, the sad prospect, however, appears that of a government which will be prepared only to allow the rot to persist. Yet an active Mr Singh has it within his grasp to engrave his name as the Minister who turned around India’s industry.

TOURISM CONNECT NEIGHBOURS

GMR Forges Aviation Connect to Maldives GMR Infrastructure to build a swanky new terminal for the island nation in collaboration with Malaysian Airlines.

Maldives President Mohamed Nasheed; GMR Group Chairman, G.M. Rao with MD, Malaysia Airports, Tan Sri Bashir Ahmad at the ground breaking ceremony.

aldives President Mohamed Nasheed conducted the ground-breaking ceremony for a new terminal at the Ibrahim Nasir International Airport (INIA), Maldives, on December 19, 2011. Indian infrastructure company GMR is building the resort terminal which is scheduled to open in 2014. “Today we are making history,” said GMR Group Chairman G.M. Rao “We are building a great infrastructure that will benefit the people of Maldives for generations to come.” More than 400 guests, including President Nasheed, ministers; guests from India and corporates had gathered for a ceremony that had a fly past by Maldivian aircraft. Two planes showered flowers from the air as the dignitaries dug their shovels into the recently reclaimed land to symbolically break ground. Tan Sri Bashir Ahmad MD, Malaysia Airports,

said: “Please allow me to convey, on behalf of the Prime Minister of Malaysia and the people of Malaysia, our warmest greetings and congratulations on this auspicious day for the construction of a new terminal for Ibrahim Nassir International Airport of the Republic of Maldives.” He added that through this strategic partnership with the GMR Group, the country will develop the Ibrahim Nassir International Airport into a global standard airport by 2014. The airport will be well connected to major airports around the world and serve as the main gateway into the Maldives. The INIA is the primary international airport of Maldives and is situated in Hulhule Atoll. It was named after Ibrahim Nasir, the second president of the country, on the nation’s 46th independence day to honour a visionary president. It is a unique airport as it also in-

cludes a sea plane port. The capacity of the new and modernized airport will go up from the current 2.6 million passengers per annum to 5.2 million passengers per annum. GMR won the bid in June 2010 to build, operate, modernise and expand the INIA for a 25-year concession period, extendable by another 10 years. GMR holds 77 per cent stake while the remaining 23 per cent is held by Malaysian Airports Holdings Berhad. The salient features of the new airport will be to minimize the queuing time and provide efficient service to the users. The airport will have a new baggage belt, new X-ray machine, new gates for the check-in area, new check-in counters, renovation of lounges inside and outside terminal and will bring up new commercial opportunities by implementing a new forecourt area and the renovation of domestic terminals. GMR is a Bangalore-based global infrastructure company with interests in airports, energy, highways and urban infrastructure. It has successfully employed the public-private partnership model to build a portfolio of high quality assets in India. The company has 16 power projects, of which three are operational and 13 are under various stages of implementation. It also has nine road projects, of which six are operational and three are under construction. In has developed and commissioned the Greenfield International Airport at Hyderabad, operates the Delhi International Airport and has built a brand new integrated terminal T3 for Delhi. GMR has upgraded and is operating the Istanbul SabihaGökçen International Airport. by RAHUL KUMAR

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT HERITAGE Treating a wall painting

Work on the Vajradhatu Mandala

SUMDA CHUN LADAKH on UNESCO Map

Buddhist temple that was listed as one of the 100 most endangered sites by the World Monument Funds (WMF) in 2006 received the Award of Excellence by the UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Award for Conservation in 2011. It was a remarkable turnaround for the 12th century Sumda Chun monastery, located in a remote village near Leh, Ladakh, that holds barely half a dozen families. For the team working on the conservation, reaching the site itself posed a challenge as the last motorable road was about 8 kms away and the climb was steep and perilous.

The Challenges It was not only the access that was a challenge, even the conservation work was. Settlement of the building foundation and possibly tectonic activity had caused several cracks to develop in the walls of the complex. Paintings in the interiors were being damaged due to water seepage from the roof. A thick layer of mud over the roof of the Dukhang had caused buckling of the walls due to the load. These walls were supported by massive 38

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buttress walls. The irony was that buttress walls had been built a few years ago to lend support to the walls of the assembly hall. Even though these efforts were done to save the monastery, this led to further complications. The solution was to first provide stability to the monastery walls by reducing the mud from the roof, improving the buttresses and then repairing the cracks.

The Process Work began in 2007 with initial documentation to assess the damage and to make conservation plans that would hold. This process took about a year to complete. The conservation process itself lasted from 2008 to 2010 during which significant elements like vernacular architecture, building materials, workmanship, not to forget religious beliefs, were kept in mind. High importance was given to using materials that were traditionally used in the region. During the art restoration processes, the originality of the paintings was maintained and the team did not resort to recreation. The conservation intervention was so subtle that it was almost invisible. Efforts

A five-year-old conservation initiative by an international team of architecture and art conservators aided by monks, local villagers and a Ladakh NGO restores a heritage structure in desert wilderness and wins a creditable award in the process

TOURISM CONNECT CITY The Sumda Chun temple

Why UNESCO chose Sumda Chun for the award. In UNESCO’s own words… “The heroic rescue of the Sumda Chun Gonpa has brought back to life one of the oldest monasteries in a remote area of Ladakh. The restoration of the historically significant but severely dilapidated structure was carried out in a systematic and sensitive manner guided by meticulous research. Conservation interventions combined world-class scientific methods with vernacular building know-how. The art conservation is particularly notable for its sophistication. The exemplary project was realized through the steadfast commitment of the local community and the monastic order, in cooperation with cultural foundations and international partners.” were concentrated on preventing further loss of decorative features by consolidating every square inch of the painted surface using the best internationally-accepted conservation materials and methods.

The Team Monasteries had come up in the region at a time when Ladakh, now a tourist hotspot, was part of an offshoot of the Silk Road that existed between China, Tibet, India and the Central Asian Republics. A few of these have survived the ravages of time and nature. It was a diverse group that set out to preserve the endangered site of Sumda Chun. Local people, monks, a Leh-based family trust – the Namgyal Institute for Research on Ladakhi Art and Culture (NIRLAC), Indian and international architects and art conservators, and other skilled workers were part of this wonderful effort. A truly international initiative, it consisted of Indian art conservators headed by Sreekumar Menon and Maninder Singh Gill; Pranab Prakash Mohanty and other professionals that included Carolina Priego Rendo from the University of Valencia, and Charlotte

Martin de Fonjaudran from the wall painting department of Courtauld Institute of Art. Financial aid from World Monuments Fund aided the effort. Talking about the initiative, Menon, Paintings Conservator at the Art Conservation Solutions, says: “The idea behind involving the locals was to ensure that no damage occurs to the building and art works once the conservation process was completed. The care with which the team handled the restoration of the building and art works was a great learning experience for them. They assured us that they would be careful not to damage paintings and sculptures inside while carrying out daily rituals.”

Continuity It is not as if the work was a one-time effort. Conservation architect Ajaydeep Singh Jamwal says: “the participation of the local community as well as interaction with the monastic community has been critical in the success of the project and it is them who will ensure the site is well looked after hereafter.” by RAHUL KUMAR

January 2012 GO NOW

TOURISM CONNECT SUCCESS STORY

TOURISM LESSONS FROM TURKEY

Growing Despite the Economic Crisis Turkey is determined to be the world’s fifth largest country for tourism in the 100th year of its becoming a Republic in 2023. To achieve this, the country is taking bold steps by diversifying its tourism products. India, with an equally rich culture and heritage, can definitely take a few lessons in promoting tourism. 40

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ven as global economic crisis shows its impact on the tourism industry world over (especially in Europe), Turkey has observed a growth. While the global tourism industry grew 3% since 2000, the industry in Turkey exhibited 11% growth in the same period. The reason why the global economic crisis has affected Turkey differently than the rest of the world, say the industry experts, is that the country offers an advantageous relation between quality and price, good customer service and a diversity of offers. Behind this is a serious and dedicated effort by the Government and all stakeholders to make Turkey a global brand in tourism. There is a brand new understanding of tourism that discards aged notions on tourism. In fact, brand Turkey is being promoted as a

country that has escaped seasonality in tourism entirely and succeeds in offering visitors with different experiences in all 12 months of the year. It offers about 20 different types of tourism experiences – such as Geothermal, Marine, Cave, Faith and Botanical tourism among many others. And it is this rapid diversification of tourism segments that has resulted in a rise in the number of tourists visiting and, consequently, a significant increase in tourism revenues. Figures tell the story: Turkey saw 1 million tourists in 1980 and earned 400 million dollars revenues; it has witness an increase in income 52-fold to gain 22 billion dollars from the 29 million visitors today despite the economic crisis. “Turkey had the potential to turn the adverse effects of the crisis to its own benefit. The country is advantageous in many

TOURISM CONNECT SUCCESS STORY

“India is an important market for us”, Minister of Culture and Tourism One of the important indicators of the support provided by the Turkish public sector to the country’s tourism strategy is the input towards the document Turkey Tourism Strategy 2023 prepared by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism. In an exclusive interview to Go Now, tourism minister Ertugrul Gunay speaks about marketing Turkey and the India connection How important is India as a market for you for tourism? What are you doing to promote tourism from the country? Turkey, till now, has worked mostly with the European markets. Currently, we are seriously planning on focusing on China and India. This year was Chinese Year of Culture in Turkey. Next year, there will be China Culture Year in Japan and the following year will be Turkey Culture Year in China. Similarly, we would like to organize cultural weeks in India showcasing various things including cinema. These are the initiatives that will help us reach out to the Indian market. India is a very important market for us. However, despite its population we are not getting numbers. We plan to carry out a study to find out what are the constraints.

ERTUGRUL GUNAY Minister of Culture & Tourism, Turkey

“Turkey has the potential to turn the adverse effects of the crisis to its own benefit. The country is advantageous in many areas compared to its rivals, the most important being the availability of services at cheaper prices here.’

Tell us what is there for the Indian tourists to see in Turkey India is very rich in culture and heritage much like Turkey. Its diversified culture and heritage can be a major draw for Indian travellers. There are a countless number of ancient civilizations dating to Roman and Ottoman empires. Our museums and ruin sites are well maintained and attract tourists from all over the world. The tourism is not only focused on only sea, sun and sand. It offers much more with health, winter and cultural tourism. Also, the country has a rich culinary culture. Turks are passionate about food; indeed, Turkish cuisine is world renowned for its diversity and flavor. So, there is a lot that Turkey has to offer.

Turkey is an expensive destination for most Indian travellers given

the other available cheaper destinations. Your comments

Are there any new destinations that you are promoting?

Turkey is cheaper as compared to other European countries. The flights and hotels might be expensive but we assure you of high quality. Many hotels that provide a high standard of service are deemed worthy of prestigious international awards. We are trying our best to raise infrastructure and service standards even higher. Our effort is to promote Turkey as a country that is both high in quality and still not very expensive. We are trying to increase the number of flights; we’re also trying to get chartered airlines to increase tourism. However, the decision isn’t entirely in our hands. These matters are subject to the Ministry of Transportation not just us.

We are aiming to promote different destinations. Turkey is no longer just about sun and sea. From rafting to hunting tourism and from cave tourism to conferences and business tourism, Turkey offers a huge variety. There are efforts geared toward convention tourism bring forth destinations like Izmir, Adana and Trabzon. We have started ‘Little Izmir’ project to attract tourists from different parts for the world. Izmir is the hometown of Turkish fair industry. We are carrying out activities like restoring the historical buildings, excavations, establishing art centers, development of fair industry and urban planning.

January 2012 GO NOW

Turkey is being promoted as a country that has escaped seasonality in tourism and succeeds in offering visitors different experiences in all 12 months of the year.

areas compared to its rivals, the most important being the availability of services at cheaper prices here,” says Ertugrul Gunay, Minister of Culture and Tourism at Travel Turkey Izmir Expo 2011. Agrees Timur Bayindir, President of TUROB (Touristic Hotels and Investors Association): “Travel costs are much lower in Turkey as compared to other top destinations in Europe. Tourists can make much better use of money here.” The expo (held by IZFAS, Association of Turkish Travel Agencies and HannoverMesse International Istanbul), where the minister speaks, itself is an effort to introduce tourists to the country’s unexplored destinations and also about the convention and fair tourism capabilities. Until recently, Turkish tourism was associated mostly with coastal towns like Antalya and Bodrum, and only a handful of other places like Mardin in Central and East Anatolia, the Nemrut monuments in Adiyaman. However, now there have been strong investments in culture and tourism and restoration work as well. “Beyond being a coastal country, we are trying to promote Turkey as a country that possesses historic wealth, a gastronomic culture, art and astonishing 42

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A Diversity in Tourism Products WINTER TOURISM A region encompassing Erzincan, Erzurum, Kars, and Ardahan will be developed as a winter tourism corridor. GOLF TOURISM Currently numbering 18 in Antalya, golf facilities will be enabled to spread to the Aegean region. ECOTOURISM Touristic development and action regions will be designated as spot centers or axes in places where pastures are abundant. CONVENTION & FAIR TOURISM Adana, Gaziantep and Trabzon will be designated as second-degree convention in addition to Istanbul, Izmir, Antalya SILK ROAD Numerous Seljuk and Ottoman relics and examples of civil architecture on the historic Silk Road route will be restored and converted to accommodation facilities. BOTANICAL TOURISM Being at the crossroads of three separate botanical regions, Turkey has more species of endemic plants than all of Europe.

architecture. We are trying to catch up with the examples of Italy, Spain and France, who are in race with us,” says the Minister. The government has undertaken infrastructure planning and region-based promotional efforts in expositions abroad. “Our focus is to raise infrastructure and service standards even higher. We are working to spread the image that Turkey is a country that is both high in quality and is still not extremely expensive,” he adds. Hotels in Turkey have seen a marked growth along with tourism. Large hotel chains are investing in various cities. While hotels were mostly centered on coastline but there are efforts being taken for overall development. Says Ahmet Barut, President of TUROFED (Turkish Hoteliers Federation), “For nearly past ten years, it has been growing despite crisis periods, and it has even more growth potential. Our aim from now on for tourism is to spread to every part of Turkey and for income to come to the forefront of people. We are aiming for tourism that is respectful to the environment, sustainable and can make it so that the generations after us can have a share too.” by PURVA BHATIA IN IZMIR, TURKEY

DESTINATIONINDIA

MARTIAL ART PERFORMANCE, MUNNAR. PIX: PURVA BHATIA

travel and discover a subcontinent

• SIKKIM PUTS THE QUAKE BEHIND • MUNNAR: A GREEN GETAWAY • MUMBAI’S FINEST WINE RESTAURANTS • GEMS OF HISTORY GLEAM IN MUSSOORIE

DESTINATION INDIA TRENDS

Camping in the Wild is Top Dream Holiday Trends Forecast by TripAdvisor reveals over 50% people will not curb their leisure travel and 44% plan to spend more on holidays in 2012 despite inflation

he year 2012 will see a surge in leisure travel, according to a survey by TripAdvisor. Despite the current economic climate, 44% people anticipate they will spend more on leisure travel next year, while 45% expect to spend the same amount as they did in 2011. “Nothing seems to dampen the traveller’s spirit in the coming year, be it increasing fuel

More Travel Bites ☛ Laptops remain the favourite gadget companion to get travel related information on the go for 2012. Surprisingly, despite being the newer and more recent entrant, iPads/ tablets follow next, with a slight edge over older and familiar Blackberry in third place. ☛ 79% travellers said they will make a conscious effort to stay less connected to their work while on vacation in 2012. ☛ 53% respondents believe that 2012 is a good year to visit the big tourist European economies like Italy, Greece and Spain as it will be cheaper to travel there, owing to the current debt crisis. ☛ However, there seem to be few takers for a trip to London with only 8% respondents claiming they will travel this summer for the London 2012 Olympics. ☛ 74% respondents said they will opt for travel insurance in 2012, out of which 58% will purchase it only for international travel.

GO NOW January 2012

charges or an incorrigible inflation. With 53% looking to travel more next year and an increase of 20% in travellers planning to undertake at least one international holiday, these are positive mood indicators for 2012, at least from the long term perspective of Indian travellers,” says Nikhil Ganju, Country Manager, TripAdvisor India. He further stated, “Though beaches & hills remain ageless favourites amongst Indians, adventure holidays and activities see more traction, revealing an experimental outlook for holidays next year.”

Vacations wouldn’t fear inflation 46% respondents spent more than a lakh of rupees on their holidays this year & only 8%

Seeking Adrenaline Rush Camping in the wild Scuba Diving Hiking White water rafting/Kayaking Mountaineering Hot air ballooning Parasailing Sky diving Snorkelling Bungee Jumping Skiing Paragliding/Hang gliding Fishing

28% 20% 18% 17% 17% 16% 15% 15% 14% 14% 11% 11% 10%

TOP 5 Domestic Destinations for 2012 ☛ Goa ☛ Kerala ☛ Srinagar ☛ Ooty ☛ Andaman/

Shimla/ Ladakh respondents said they cancelled a leisure trip in 2011 owing to the high inflationary trend. 2012 looks similarly resilient to inflation as 65% respondents indicated they will not cut back on their leisure travel in 2012 even if the inflationary upward trend continues and 89% plan to spend same or more as 2011 on their travel budget in 2012. Almost 40% claim the increase in fuel prices will not impact their road trips in 2012. 59% respondents took at least 3 domestic leisure trips this year and 64% took at least 1 international holiday. The outlook for 2012 seems even more promising for travel with 53% claiming they will travel more in the coming year and 20% more travellers planning to take an international holiday in 2012 as compared to 2011.

Holiday Choices Forecast As far as the choices for destinations are concerned, Goa and Kerala rule the list. Tied for the 3rd place for types of trips planned are pilgrimage or religious destinations; trips planned for wedding or family function; and wildlife sanctuary or safari trips. 72% travellers plan to experience some kind of adventure activity or sport on their holiday. These include camping in the wild, scuba diving, hiking, sky diving and paragliding.

DESTINATION INDIA TRAVEL BUZZ

Live Life King Size at Suryagarh, Jaisalmer

ITC Hotels offers packages to pamper your taste buds Take your taste buds on a journey at ITC Hotels. From the robust cuisine of NorthWest Frontier at Bukhara and Peshawari to the delectable fare of ethnic coastal and regional cuisines of South India at Dakshin and preparations from the grand kitchens of the Nawabs of Awadh at Dum Pukht. The hotel offers Free Night & Up-

grade package where you get the 3rd night free and receive a complimentary room upgrade on check-in. The package includes room upgrade, breakfast (2 adults & 2 children), 2 major meals per person at any restaurant, 1 glass of house wine/soft beverage per person with meal, Chef’s special amenity, Kitchens of India hamper,

For a royal and traditional hospitality, head to Suryagarh, Jaisalmer, a luxurious hotel located near the famous Sam sand dunes. Spread over 20 acres, the hotel has king sized rooms and suites with new age amenities, rambling courtyards and traditional Rajasthani artifacts. For adrenaline rush, try Dirt Biking or watch Talwar Baazi in the shifting sands of the Thar Desert. Back at the hotel; indulge in local flavours straight from the kitchens of the Maharajas at the Indian speciality restaurant or international fare served round the clock at the coffee shop. Rait, the spa will help you unwind and relax after a full day’s activity. Offer: 2N/3D stay package starts at Rs. 25,000/valid till 30 March 2012 For reservations call 02992-269270/ 011- 40513908 or e-mail at info@suryagarh.com

20% discount on Food & Beverages, Spa & Salon services, 4PM Late Checkout. Free night & upgrade: Valid through the week Rates starting at Rs. 11500 + taxes Note: Valid from Dec 16, 2011 - Jan 8, 2012. For further details please visit www.welcombreak.com

Discovery Package by Toshali Ethnic Village Resort Puri-based Toshali Ethnic Village Resort is offering the Discovery Package for 3 nights/4 days for its retreat that boasts of its own private Balighai Beach. The retreat, with its traditional architecture, tiled roofs, secluded green courtyards, private gardens and open verandas has over 1,600 coconut trees and cultivates organic vegetables and fruits. The package includes a welcome drink on arrival, a fruit basket/cookies, accommodation on twin sharing basis, buffet breakfast, lunch or dinner on buffet or fixed menu basis, pick-up and drop from Puri railway station or Bhubaneswar airport, visit to Konark SunTemple, Puri Jagannath Temple, Chaitana stone carving village, Raghurajpur artisan village, Nandankanan Zoo, Bhubaneshwar museum and Dolphin view at Chilika Lake. Child below 5 years can stay complimentary without extra-bed. The package costs Rs 22,933 on twin share basis and is valid till March 31, 2012. For more details contact Phone 91-1123312380, Email: delhi@toshali.in and www.toshalisands.com

Experience a “Royal Spa Retreat” at Ranbanka Palace- heritage hotel Jodhpur Pamper yourself at Ranbanka Palace, Jodhpur with “Royal Spa Retreat” package at Marwar Spa. Go the signature therapy of the Rajputana Era for rejuvenation of the body, mind and soul and slip in to the bygone era and experience the treatments, royals took then! The heritage hotel is also an ideal destination to host conferences and weddings offering special spa therapies for the guests as per ones choice at various stations like the reception (on arrival), gazebo, lawns, roof tops and spa area. You almost mingle with the bygone era as the well staffed trained therapists work on you with a menu of treatments available. The special spa package is available for Rs 16,999/- The offer is inclusive of: welcome drinks on arrival, air conditioned well furnished rooms, Daily live entertainments at hotel, Buffet breakfast for 2 people, Spa facility for 2 people on either day. Valid from 1st January 2012 to 31st March 2012. *All currently applicable taxes. For location specific details & cancellation policy, please log on to www.ranbankahotels.com http://www.ranbankahotels.com January 2012 GO NOW

GO NOW January 2012

DESTINATION INDIA KERALA

Vivanta by Taj opens next month to strengthen Kerala’s secret called

BEKAL factfile GETTING THERE Bekal, scenic and serene area in Kerala, is the next holiday attraction. Promoted by Kerala government as an integrated tourism cluster, it combines some high end resorts including the recently opened The Lalit. By air: Nearest airport is Mangalore (70 km). Daily and regular Jet Airways, Kingfisher and Air India flights from Mumbai to Mangalore FACILITIES AT VIVANTA BY TAJ BEKAL • 25 acres • 71 villas and rooms • Separate bath and rain showers • Al fresco dining • Poolside dining • Rejuvenating spa treatments • Beach access • Backwater view

Vivanta by Taj, Bekal was formally inaugurated last month by Subodh Kant Sahai, minister for Tourism, Government of India. Seen in the photograph above, Sahai is flanked by Dinesh Khanna (second from left), executive director, Khanna Hotels, the owning company and Anand Kumar (second from right), jt. secretary, Ministry of Tourism.

ocated about 16 km south of Kasaragod on the national highway, North Kerala, Bekal is a small town that boasts unspoilt white-sand beaches. Shaped like a giant keyhole, the historic Bekal Fort offers a scenic view of the Arabian Sea from its tall observation towers, which were occupied by huge cannons, couple of centuries ago. The fort has been a source of attraction for historians, tourists and nature lovers for centuries. It is the biggest fort of Kerala spreading over forty acres. The important features of this fort are the tank with its flight of steps, the opening of the tunnel towards the South, the magazine for keeping ammunition and the broad and wide steps leading to the Observation Tower is a rarity. From there one has ample view of all the important places in the vicinity like Kanhangad, Pallikare, Bekal, Kottikulam Uduma etc. Nestled in a quiet and languid nook of its own, Vivanta by Taj - Bekal, Kerala, seeks to recreate the quintessential Kerala experience with a refreshing, inspired touch. Located on

the meandering backwaters, this seaside resort is also embraced by the Kappil River, to serve as a sanctuary for the urban soul. Flamboyant architecture that includes beach-front rooms and villas with private pools offer a retreat amidst lush surroundings, making them ideal for romantic getaways. A choice of eclectic cuisines, unique ‘motif’ experiences and indulgent spa journeys - everything here is designed to deliver the signature Vivanta hospitality of relaxed luxury and unexpected delights.

specialpackage Special pre-opening offer: Packages starting at Rs. 21,500 for 2 nights (inclusive breakfast, meal cedits, sightseeing and taxes) Valid: Special Winter Holiday offer valid till March 31, 2012. Address: Tel: +91-467-661 6612 or call Taj Reservations Worldwide on 1800 111 825 www.vivantabytaj.com

January 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA SIKKIM

Less than three months after a devastating earthquake shook Sikkim, it’s not quite business as usual in Gangtok: even though the capital city was spared the quake’s fury, it is reeling under the extended impact which the catastrophe has wreaked on the tourism industry. Go Now travelled to the ‘Switzerland of the East’ and found optimism and resilience in a state getting back on its feet.

nly one road connects Sikkim to the rest of the country. And it’s not in very good shape. The National Highway 31 connecting Gangtok to Siliguri (in West Bengal) has been cleared of all the debris which numerous landslides triggered by the September 2011 earthquake dumped on it, but deep craters remain. What was, till six months back, a five-six hour drive, now takes closer to eight hours. If this road is blocked, say by a sudden landslide, or, as was the case till very recently, by a road blockade related to political turmoil in neighbouring Darjeeling, then there’s no way in.

No such trouble on a brilliant winter day as we make our way to Gangtok after a twohour flight from New Delhi to Bagdogra.

Gangtok The state capital makes the urban visitor feel at home – I’ve checked into Hotel Rendezvous, a plush business hotel in the city centre. The lobby is adorned with mural size prints of photographs from around the state but surprisingly there are hardly any of the mighty Khanchendzonga peak. “There’s no need for that, “says Thendup Wangdi, hotel owner, friend and photographer, opening the blinds

GANGTOK BREAKING NEW GROUND

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DESTINATION INDIA SIKKIM in my room. And there it is, resplendent in the moonlight, looming over the town. Mt. Khanchendzonga is much more than a mountain to the Sikkimese. It’s a deity which the locals believe watches over them. Literally. Later that night, we head to Café Live and Loud, a swish club on M.G. Road where well known blues band from Shillong, Soulmates is playing. Tipriti, the vocalist, and Rudy accompanying her on the guitar launch into the blues and the assembled motley groups match them note for note. “I love this place,” gushes Tipriti after the performance which includes a couple of originals in her native Khasi. “When we’re playing in a place like Delhi, we stick to English but here, everyone speaks the blues!” Unlike North Indian hill towns, Gangtok is

spick – the streets are gleaming and the fountains actually work. There’s no doubt that business has been slow: most tour operators cancelled groups post the earthquake fearing infrastructural damage in Gangtok. There are, admittedly, cracks visible on a few buildings but, by and large, there are no obvious signs of damage in the city. Curiously, the state government’s move to officially declare the state as a ‘Disaster Affected State’ has not helped in parlaying fears. The move which is required by RBI guidelines for the state government to source funding from international funding agencies is seen by many as adversely affecting tourism. “We need to learn from places like Thailand, which in spite of widespread

damage, are doing their best to get tourists back into the country,” says Wangdi. Chatting with locals reveal plans to boost tourism which include, among other projects, an ambitious multi-crore, ‘skywalk’ akin to one at the Grand Canyon in the U.S. That seems in-line with a development strategy which has included the opening of casinos, and tourist villages. In a strange way it seems at odds with what brings people to Sikkim in the first place – natural splendour. If only a bit of that money found its way into road-building, Sikkim could have perhaps amongst the finest driving holidays in the country. And that’s simply because, at least in terms of distances, Sikkim is incredibly small. If you have a week in hand then rent a car and head out!

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factfile Ridge Park LOKESH SHARMA

HOW TO GET THERE Gangtok is a six-eight hour drive from the junction town of Siliguri which is connected to the rest of the country by air and rail. There are regular flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Bagdogra (the airport on the suburbs of Siliguri) and trains to New Jalpaiguri which is a short distance from Siliguri. Don’t bother with the touts and head instead to the Siliguri S.N.T. bus stand from where you can take a bus or a prepaid cab to Gangtok WHERE TO STAY

The Retreat, a Zuri resort at Baiguney

Exploring Sikkim Lachung & Yumthang Valley Sikkim is divided into four parts – North, South, East and West. Gangtok lies in the East and the road north culminates with the villages of Lachen (big pass) and Lachung (small pass). Lachung used to be a trading post between Sikkim and Tibet before the annexation of Tibet in 1950, after which it was closed. Its economy has been boosted by tourism in recent years as it’s a stopover to Yumthang Valley and has been described as the “most picturesque village of Sikkim” by British explorer Joseph Dalton Hooker (1855).

Thangu & Gurudongmar Lake Even further north at an altitude of almost 13,000 feet is the picturesque village of Thangu. With no electricity and hardly any people – just a few houses and an army camp, Thangu is a 50

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base camp for trekking to Green Lake which is a base camp for expeditions to Khangchendzonga. From here it’s a two-hour drive on a dry arid road-less extension of the Tibetan plateau to Gurudongmar Lake, located at 17,100 feet, one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. Its highly revered and worshiped by Buddhists, a portion of the lake never freezes even in extreme winter conditions.

Pelling A small town in West Sikkim with phenomenal views of Mt. Khangchendzonga, Pelling is covered in a blanket of snow in the winter months making it a big draw for tourists. Check out the Khecheopalri Lake, Sangachoeling and Pemayangtse Monasteries. Pelling is a twohour drive from the southern town of Baiguney. At the end what makes Sikkim unique is it’s spectacular diversity: from the buzzing nightlife in Gangtok (where you can hear some

Gangtok Hotel Rendezvous is amongst the oldest hotel in Gangtok and located a stone’s throw away from the bustling M.G. Road and market area of Gangtok. The hotel has a selection of rooms and suites ranging from INR 2600 - 3200. For more information see www.rendezvoussikkim.com Baiguney Stay at ‘The Retreat’, A Zuri resort at Baiguney If you want absolute peace and tranquillity whilst maintaining proximity to civilization. Baiguney is a couple of hours drive from Pelling and has a selection of rooms and suites ranging from INR 5500 - 11999. For more information and bookings, see www.thezurihotels.com/sikkim

of the country’s best bands performing live on any given night), to the remote sub-alpine Guru Dongmar lake in the north frontier; from fashionable youngsters prowling hip pubs and bars to Yak herders in the valley of Muguthang. Sikkim is he only state to house all five temperate zones and it can be traversed from North to South, East to West in less than a week. And, surprisingly, one road is all it takes. text by MERAJ SHAH IN GANGTOK photographs by S.T. WANGDI

January 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA KERALA

Tea Estates of

MUNNAR

THE GREEN GETAWAY Perched about 1600 m above see level, Munnar, the summer resort of the British administration, sits at the confluence of three mountain streams – Muthirapuzha, Nallathanni and Kundala. There is magic in the idyllic tourist destination in God’s own country, says GoNow’s Purva Bhatia.

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unnar must be the reason why Kerala is the country’s most sought after honeymoon destination. Mist on rolling hills, endless greenery of the tea gardens and a nippy weather, after all, make for a perfect romantic setting. But wait… did I say Kerala? Yes I did. You need to keep your picture postcard imagination of the backwaters in your pocket, forget the humidity, and wrap woolens around your neck to enjoy the serenity of the hilly climes at Munnar in God’s Own Country.

Like any typical backpacker I was not set to witness the matchless beauty of these hills when I was leaving Cochin’s humid climate. Soon the world was going to change and it really did. Perhaps it was this ‘unpreparedness’ that further added to the exquisiteness of Munnar. Imagine entering from a city milieu to the kingdom of valley where the mountains are covered with the greenest of carpets and the red dust road crawls like a snake in a sprawling forest spread between the deepest of valleys to the regions highest peaks. While I don’t quite agree with the title ‘Kashmir of the South’ because it’s like comparing apples with oranges, or rather cinnamon in this case, Munnar is certainly impressive enough for Kerala to boast of.

Wake up and smell the tea! Driving through a surreal rippling mosaic of yellow-green tea bushes, you already know that tea plantations are Munnar’s claim to fame! One whiff of the potent tea leaves is enough to indicate why Munnar tea is perhaps the most touted beverages the world over. Munnar is home to some of the world's highest tea-growing estates spanning a legacy of over 125 years. And for sharing all the history, Tata Tea, some years ago, took the task of preserving and showcasing some of the exquisite and interesting aspects on the genesis and growth of tea plantations, by opening a tea museum. In the museum,

take a peep into the past with relics and artefacts from the colonial era. In the fitness of things, the museum has a miniature tea factory, which tells you about the nuances of tea cultivation and manufacture. All this rich information on tea stimulates your yearning for having a warm cuppa. And here comes the irony, especially for chai lovers like me: You only find machine made and not the 'original' tea here. I wish there were stalls brewing tea the traditional way. But one can take heart as the museum stocks a fascinating array of powdered tea in a plethora of flavours. These locally grown and produced teas January 2012 GO NOW

have been perfected over several decades and make for wonderful gifts.

A Spicy Treat Spices, of course, are as famed as the coconut trees and backwaters in Kerala. There are several spice gardens that allow you to take a close look at the spices that add flavour to your food. You can buy them and also educate yourself about spices, herbs and ways to know how to select good quality ones. I, for instance, learnt that good cardamom is that a handful of it must render some noise, which shows it is dried well and hence is of good quality. There are a number of well-run spice gardens all over. The one I went to was a little dramatic. Standing in a tree house inside the garden, for a moment, I felt like I had walked into a movie…what with the misty mountains in front of me, cool breeze…and music from the 90’s Bollywood movies being played out loud in the garden. Of course we got it, it's was after all a honeymooners paradise! While a bumpy ride after a leisurely lunch did not make me summon the courage for an elephant ride, but for those who like a view from the top, there is the elephant ride through tea gardens. For Rs 1500, the adventurous can take the help of these gentle giants to soak in the lush beauty of the tea gardens inside the spice garden. Must buys here include – aromatic oils like eucalyptus and lemon grass. 54

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Sights Worth Seeing For those who love the flora and fauna, Eravikulam National Park is your place. You can get up close to some of the world’s last Nilgiri tahr (a variety of mountain goat or ibex). Existing only in the mountain grasslands of the Western Ghats, the tahr is as endangered as the tiger. Be prepared to walk a lot; it’s definitely a place for trekkers. But the walk is definitely worth it and you’d know it only when you reach the top. And now time to share a secret: visit the place in 2018 and you’d find the hill slopes covered in a carpet of blue. This would be because of the flowering of Neelakurinji that blooms once in twelve years! (It last bloomed in 2006). For the more adventurous, there’s 8,841-ft Anaimudi Peak, the highest peak in south India. Treks to the peak are allowed with permission from the Forest and Wildlife authorities at Eravikulam. And those who get excited at the sight of water should head to Mattupetty Dam, which is located 13 kms from Munnar town. Here, you must take a leisurely boat ride and enjoy the landscape. The boat ride is sure to remind you of some of the picturesque Bollywood songs of the 90's that had the hero and heroine gently indulging in good old romance while pedaling the boat. What wasn’t all that worth seeing, according to me, was the Echo Point. However

much you shout from it, the mountains refrain from answering you back. Located 15 km from Munnar, it is on the way to Top Station. The place is commercialised with shops selling touristy things and photographers vying for your time and money.

Watch Kerala’s Performing Arts One thing that featured prominently in the Kerala ‘of my imagination’ was a Kathakali dancer performing with coconut trees in the background. While the coconut trees were replaced with the backdrop of the misty mountains in Munnar town, one should not miss the opportunity to watch Kathakali and traditional martial arts, Kalarippayattu at Punarjani Traditional Village, owned by a group of youth. At first, the charge of Rs 200 for each performance seems too much but you’d change your mind once you see the performances. If you manage to reach half an hour before performance time and you can see the Kathakali artist putting on the elaborate make-up. The hour-long performance is an act to acquaint viewers with the traditional dance form followed by enactment of a short story. The experience will certainly stay with you for a long time especially if you are watching it for the first time. The best part is that the Kathakali and Kalaripayattu artists are quite camera friendly with most willing to pose good naturedly for photographs after the performance is over.

factfile Getting there: Cochin International airport is the nearest airport. SpiceJet, Jet Airways, Kingfisher, IndiGo have daily flights. It is 110 km away from the Munnar by road. The nearest railway station is Aluva, 110 km while Ernakulam is 130 km. You can get the direct regular buses to Munnar, just outside of Railway station. You can also drive from Coimbatore, in Tamil Nadu, which is about six hours away. Location: Idukki District on the high ranges of the Western Ghats Best time to visit: The weather in Munnar is pleasant most of the year. Summers (April-June) are mild, while winters (November-February) are cool. Avoid June-August when the area experiences heavy southwestern monsoon rains though you must keep an umbrella handy all through the year. Carry warm woolens in winter season and a light sweater for the evening chill during summers. Languages spoken: Malayalam, Tamil, Hindi and English

Munnar comes alive in the mornings. Do not miss waking up early and watching the sunrise. Take a long walk in mountainous Munnar and soak in the idyllic surroundings and feel the magic. Text & photographs by PURVA BHATIA IN MUNNAR

January 2012 GO NOW

DESTINATION INDIA MUMBAI

Mumbai’s

GOBLET & GOURMET GRANDEUR KISHORE AND SMITA IYENGAR hand pick Mumbai’s finest wine-centric gourmet landmarks where the accent on fine world wines wow discerning palates.

oasting the celebrative spirit with the finest world wines and delectable cuisine are Mumbai’s chosen gourmet havens that lay out an exciting cellar of vintage and diverse labels that create culinary magic with global cuisine. Check out these unique five star wine-centric restaurants and their specialties that create synergy on your taste buds!

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BOTTICINO The Trident Bandra Kurla Mumbai Italian fine dining at its very best at this lively gourmet destination, which also boasts of a floor-to-ceiling Enoteca stocking some of the finest world wines anywhere. The rotunda layout and chic dining covers including an exclusive raised frosted glass floor table for four, creates finesse. Beginning with a finely chilled Champagne Moet Et Chandon Brut Imperiale, our epicurean expectations were heightened with ‘Pear and Pecorino Cheese Salad’. The four course journey planned by ace F&B professionals Udiksha Panshikar and Devika Chaturvedi continued, with a crisp and light Danzante Pinot Grigio Friuli Venezia Giulia Italy 2008 white wine, paired with ‘Pan Seared Chicken Roulade with Marsala wine stewed figs’. The wine was aptly picked to complement the distinct favors of the dish. But you must be adventurous here and go for the ‘Farro and Porcini Mushroom Soup’ then onto ‘Stringoli with Pork Sausage Ragout’ married with a fine Pater Sangiovese, Marchesi di Frescobaldi Italy red. Botticino delights include select world wines like a delightful Cabernet Sauvignon Escudo Roja, Baron Philippe de Rothchild from Chile or a dry red Bardolino DOC Pagus Allegrini from Veneto Italy. Match them with specials like ‘Spinach and Ricotta Flan’ and ‘Herb and Parmesan crusted Lamb Rack’. Our pick was a ‘Timbale of Avocado, Provolone and Pumpkin with Truffled Polenta Sauce’. For the grand finale, our fabulous ‘Moccha Budino with Ricotta and pistachio Cannoli’ sang along sweetly with a honeysuckled flavored Moscato D’Asti Marchesi di Barolo Piemonte dessert wine. The ‘Formaggi’ (cheese) platter was a butter soft encore. Salute, we exclaimed.

factfile Botticino, The Trident Bandra Kurla, C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra East, Mumbai-400 098. Phones: 91-22-66727777 Website: www.tridenthotels.com Timings: 12.00hrs-15.00hrs and 19.00hrs-23.45hrs Meal for two: Rs 10,000 (approx.) taxes extra

SAN QI Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai Four essential energies synergize seamlessly to offer you one of the finest wining and dining experiences in Mumbai. Our sleek flutes of GH Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Champagne-honored Bellini greeted us with pomp. The ‘Edamame poached green soy beans were an exhilarating start to our dining sojourn heralded by effusive Restaurant Manager Rahul Kadam. Crisp and chilled perfectly, our citrusy goblet of Chateau Olivier Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2001 France was a great match for ‘ Japanese tossed salad, Miso, Pine Nuts, brown sugar dressing’ and their unforgettable, signature wispy soft ‘Hokkaido Soy bean Silk Tofu, Sea Salt, Ginger, Chives’. As Rahul changed our goblets to glorify a fine Rolf Binder Haliwell Shiraz 2006, it’s inseparable dish ‘Roast Cantonese Spring Chicken’ enlivened our palates. Stealing the culinary thunder among San Qi’s grand Oriental offerings was ‘Chilli sautéed Bamboo shoots, Asparagus Spears and Black Beans’ matching flavors with a super-

factfile San Qi, Four Seasons Hotel, 114, Dr E. Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai-400 018. Phone: 91-22-24818000 Website: www.fourseasons.com/mumbai Timings: 12.00hrs-15.00hrs and 19.00hrs-23.45hrs Meal for two: Rs 8,500 (approx.) taxes extra

lative Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon from the fable Haut Medoc vineyards of France, La Demoiselles de Sociando-Mallet 2003 vintage par excellence. Living up to the aromas was ‘Garlic Sauteed Asparagus and Broccoli’ with ‘Yong Chow Fried Rice’. The mystical notes of fine wines didn’t cease to thrill us. On an enchanting note our irresistible signature ‘Green Tea Ice Cream’ was complemented by a blue blood number, ‘Oberhauser, Brucke Riesling Eiswein, H. Doenhoff 2001 from Germany that had scored Robert Parker’s 100 points on the awards scale. Light on the senses, the cuisine made merry while the eclectic wines lingered on with their magnificent notes and flavors. January 2012 GO NOW

FIFTY FIVE EAST Grand Hyatt Mumbai

factfile Imperial China, The Hilton Mumbai International Airport Hotel, Sahar Airport Road, Andheri East, Mumbai-400 099 Phone: 91-22-28380000 Website:www.1hilton.com Timings: 19.00hrs-00.00hrs (midnight) Meal for Two: Rs 8,500 (approx.) taxes extra

IMPERIAL CHINA The Hilton Mumbai International Airport The soft whirr of overhead handcrafted fans in unison added genteel touch to mood lighting and pastel glows of this sophisticated fine dining landmark. Candlelight glows lit up covers graced with carnations and white roses as our affable host Devansh Ashar, Asst. Restaurant Manager, presented a well picked Two Oceans Chardonnay 2010 from Western Cape South Africa with passion fruit and vanilla accents; in company of ‘Yum Phak 58

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Grob-Crispy vegetables dressed in coriander, shallots, chillies and fresh lemon soya sauce’. Another grand Gatsby of white wines in their cellar is the fazio Mullur Mueller Thurgau from Franconia, Bavaria, that blends magically with ‘grilled shrimps in soybean and garlic chilli paste’. Wines make an impressive impact here at Imperial China with their distinct bouquets and for us it was a superbly dry and oaky Ginestet St. Emillion Vintage 2003 from Bordeaux in France. The dish to cap it smart was ‘Vegetables in Black Beans Sauce’, ‘Five Treasure Vegetables sautéed in garlic chilli sauce’ and ‘Vegetable Hakka Noodles’. To sync with these light-n-easy dishes was a dry and oliveflavored Hans Lang Pinot Noir, full bodies and ruby toned, with a fine charcoal after palate. Signing off a svelte fine wining and dining voyage, we ventured into sweet somethings. ‘Coconut pancake and honey flavored Dar San with home made vanilla ice cream’. The wine that lit up the fantastic flavors was Muscat de Beaumes Venise Vintage 2003- Alsace, France. The fragrance of the vineyards came alive with melon and honey flavors…..

Intricate latticed screens along with mood lighting lend a mystical aura to the dining covers at this spacious, exhibition kitchengraced outlet. Bright wall strip tapestry textures glowing on one side create drama with Pan-Asian and a Continental counter, a dessert station and an easy stairway making up the design accents at Fifty Five East. The opening lines of our sojourn were spelt with a chilled wonder, Carpene Malvolti, Prosecco an Italian Sparkling wine) paired marvelously with ‘Parmesan cheese platter with balsamic reduction and vegetarian sushi’. The combo complemented the flavors to the hilt. The aptly selected Selbach Riesling Kabinett, a fine German white wine poured with aplomb by our expert sommelier Oliver Ellinger, paired majestically with a ‘Baked macaroni, walnut gnocchi, french bean stew with babycorn and carrots’ from their continental section. As the busy kitchen fires lit up the ambience with thrilling aromas, Oliver presented a vintage Sicilian marvel, a Zonin, Nero d’ Avola Italian white married with ‘Paneer but-

factfile Fifty Five East, The Grand Hyatt, Off Western Express Highway, Santacruz (East), Mumbai-400 055 Phone: 91-22-66741234 Email: fiftyfiveeast.ghmumbai@hyatt.com Timings: 12.30hrs-15.00hrs and 19.00hrs-00.00hrs (midnight) Meal for Two: Rs 7,500 (taxes extra)

ter masala, and a south Indian favorite – Kai Kari Kottu (South Indian dish with vegetables and coconut) from their Indian section. The fusion flavors mingled with cheery notes as Sicilian bouquets and dry notes paired superbly with Indian dishes. Wines are big time favorites at Fifty Five East with select varietals and labels making it to diverse cuisine preferences… grand picks like the Baron de Rothschild Lafitte Resesrve Medoc Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 and Pommard Cote de Beaune Burgundy Pinot Noir 2000 matching class with Chateau Latour 1er Grand Cru Classe 2004 and Castello di Bossi Renieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sangiovese Toscana 2004.

STELLA The Leela Kempinski Mumbai The deep crimson and mauve tones of a suave fine dining hotspot are uplifted with the moon’s many moods within stately chandeliers and matt raw silk drapes as we prepared for a gastronomic journey with Chef de Cuisine Marco Priolo. Our frosted wonder, a light golden white wine Garganega Soave Classico Villa Girardi from Veneto, Italy made a smooth start with ‘Crab meat and Sevrugga caviar, tomato coulis and marinated Zucchini with Anchovies’.

factfile Stella, The Leela Kempinski Mumbai, Near Sahar Airport, Sahar, Mumbai - 400 059 Phone: 91-22-66911234 Email: reservations.mumbai@theleela.com Timings: 19.30hrs - 23.00hrs. Meal for Two: Rs 12,500 (approx) taxes extra

As Pavrotti’s sonorous voice lingered on with passion we welcomed another fine label from Piemonte, Italy, a light golden apple-tinged Arneis, Roero, Vietti. That was magic on our taste buds with fruity magic as Chef Marco walked in with ‘Black Truffle and wild mushrooms Risotto, Raspberry and Foie Gras Terrine’. Aah! The fine tastes of life! A generous tasting of one more Italian nugget was in order as we quaffed a Grecanico Chardonnay, Alastro Bianco Palaneta from Sicily. Dry and citrusy, just splendid. Wines are prominent accelerators of fine flavors at Stella and their pairings by the glass have found serious connoisseurs of eclectic dining. Aglianico, Castel del Monte, Bocca di Luppo, Tormaresco from Puglia, Italy was our next companion with ‘Grilled whole Mediterranean Sea Bream with spicy tomato broth, grilled vegetables and Mesclun salad in Citrus dressing’. It took a fabulous Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido red wine from Tuscany to match up to the earthy, terra flavors of ‘Aubergines Parmigiana with Cheese Fondue’. These were exciting flavors that capped a true Italian dining mood. For the final bow, we relished a superb hot chocolate fondant and home made gelato with a marvelous dessert wineBen Rye Passito di Pantellaria, Donnafugata, Sicily, Italy. by KISHORE IYENGAR

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DESTINATION INDIA MUSSOORIE

ast evening, the Winter Line flared over the Doon. The Winter Line is not only unique to Mussoorie, it also captures everything else that raises this hill station above all the others, both in India and world-wide. Here you not only feel that you’ve risen above it all, but you actually see it. From any part of our Mall, the main road between the venerable old Mussoorie Library, and the highest point in Kulri called Breezy Corner, we can see the great valley of the Doon stretching away at our feet, 4,000 feet below. That is about a thousand meters as a stone drops. That’s one reason why the Brits, seeking an escape from the files and anopheles of the plains, decided to keep Mussoorie free of vacationing Government Offices. Most of the other important hills stations became the summer capitals of the Central and Provincial governments, but not Mussoorie. A wise old Caucasian babu in South block apparent wrote: “It takes far too long to sail home on leave; you’ve hardly arrived when you have to return. So where can our young bucks let their hair down? And if they can’t, they’ll crack under the strain. Let’s keep the most accessible hill station, Mussoorie, free of starchy protocol.” They did, and it worked. Free-wheeling maharajas and nawabs built their summer palaces here. Chateau Kapurthala still stands, a lasting tribute to a Francophile prince. There are many such little gems of history still glittering in Mussoorie. A walk down the wooded Camel’s Back Road, so called because of its two loops which appear on a map like the two humps of a Bactrian Camel, will take you past the Raj era Lych Gate of the Mussoorie Cemetery. On a clear day there are also superb views of the peaks of some of the eternal Snows of the High Hi-

malayas. From the austere plateau that lies beyond, came the Dalai Lama fleeing the Chinese and made his first Indian home in Mussoorie, before moving to Dharamsala, further from the Tibetan border. There is a thriving Tibetan colony built around the place where he stayed, with a beautiful temple, school, handicrafts, authentic mo-mos and other delectable Tibetan fare. There is also a thriving Tibetan street market on a

Wales, was shooting tigers in the Viceroy’s Block in Dehra Dun. The Viceroy’s block has evolved into the Rajaji Park and the Charleville Hotel is now the Lal Bahadur Shastri National Academy of Administration, the Alma Mater of all IAS Officers. There’s a great deal more of history for those who like pottering around but Mussoorie has come a long way from those distant days of the Raj. It has evolved to cater to the needs of the powerful society that now drives India: the go-ahead, bustling, Great Indian Middle Class (GIMC). They are the new movers and shakers of our age. Aspiration drives them. They work hard, they play hard and they believe they have earned the right to unwind away from it all.. They stream up in their luxury cars, negotiating the winding road from Dehra Dun to Mussoorie. They pause to take a breather at the Jheel, paying twenty-rupees for an ember-roasted bhutta then paddling around a large, circular, pond because the GIMC can’t resist water. This aquatic magnetism also accounts for the popularity of the grimy, over-crowded, Kempty Falls some distance out of Mussoorie and canny entrepreneurs propose to ‘develop’ Bhatta Falls and Mossy Falls (aka Mausi Falls!). The far-seeing Sharma brothers have also opened Mussoorie’s first Chateau Kapurthala, in the western part of Mussoorie, Aquarium just above the against the rising Garhwal Himalayas. Mall, accessed by Mussoorie’s first escalator, and road veering down from the Mall near the have done wonders with the once-bedraggreen-roofed, vegetarian, Padmini Niwas gled ‘Company Gardens’ dating back to the Hotel, once the summer palace of the Maha- East India Company. Picnics and outings are raja of Rajpipla. Then, if you’re still history very much a part of the Bollywood inspired bent, walk up to Christ Church, just above image of ‘having a good time’. But then, so the Mall. It was built in 1836, has impressive are discos and shopping malls. When we stained glass windows, and a deodar tree asked a sweet-young-thing from Delhi if she planted by Queen Elizabeth II’s grandmoth- missed them she said “We didn’t come to er. She stayed in Mussoorie’s Charleville Mussoorie to get what we have in the Hotel while her husband, the Prince of metros”. That was interesting. “So why did

Mussoorie

GO NOW January 2012

THE 73x5 DESTINATION

From Shawfield Road, looking east to Kulri and Landour. The historic and beautiful Christ Church built in 1836.

Kempti Falls: a little out of Mussoorie and a little too popular!

January 2012 GO NOW

On Shawfield Road, the thriving Tibetan Market.

Mussoorie’s newest attraction, an aquarium just below the kacheri, on the Mall.

you come?” She looked up at the tall AB jr. look-alike at her side “Umm.. because its cool. Like if you come at the right season you won’t meet any of the metro crowd. You’re on your own, can do your own thing! You understand?” We understood. Which is why we wrote the blurb 73 x 5. There are five distinct seasons : Spring, Summer, Monsoon, Autumn and Winter. Also, North, South, West, East and Honeymooners’. The regional and the climatic seasons overlap so that we really have ten different flows of tourist traffic. Most of them hop into a cycle rickshaw, just for the experience. We used to have handpulled double and single rickshaws and palanquin-like dandies but an administrator turned social activist decided that it was humiliating to have humans draw humans but it was acceptable to have humans pedal hu62

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mans: cycle rickshaws were introduced. They can’t, however, carry tourists to the shopping area of Kulri. The range of goods in our shops reflects our seasonally varying clientele. So does the cuisine of our restaurants. From the glorified dhabas and mo-mochow mien eateries of the 70s we now get reasonably sophisticated fare in Carlson, Fortune Grace, Imperial Square and, to a certain extent in Residency Manor. There’s a delightfully funkyyoung atmosphere in the Clock Tower Café. Landour lies beyond, but the road is in a disgraceful state because they’re laying new sewer lines so we don’t think it’s worth the effort to explore further for the present. For Thai-Chinese-Tibetan, our favourite is Kalsang’s opposite the State Bank of India and up a flight of steps. We’ve just discovered an Udupi Restaurant down a slope before the Mall reaches the double-storeyed GMVN building. The Udupi restaurant’s food is authentic in both taste and texture: we have sampled the original fare in Karnataka’s Udipi. Fast foodies and dedicated snackers head for Café Coffee Day, Nirulas and Dominos in the heart of the Kulri part of town where the State Bank of India and the Post Office are located. The narrowest part of the Kulri Bazaar, from Dominos up and then down to the

junction whose left fork veers off to Camel’s Back, still captures something of the atmosphere of the old Himalayan village that was Mansurie before it became Mussoorie. Northeast from here rise the heights of Landour which developed before Mussoorie did. Much of it is a cantonment and has remained fairly wooded and green though even here ‘development’ is beginning to raise it ugly head and the steep roads have been blighted. As for the Lion Rock on the Mall at the western end of the town, it does not commemorate or signify anything. When the Mall was carved out of the hillside by the Brits, a large rock was left thrusting out because there was no need to remove it. Then an imaginative sculptor saw, in his mind’s eye, the possibility of carving it into a lion. He did so, it was painted, and the Lion Rock emerged in all its intriguing fierceness. It is an icon awaiting its legend. There are certainly enough imaginative people in Mussoorie to spin such a yarn. Our town has the highest concentration of professional writers-in-residence of any town in India. It has even hosted International Writers’ Festivals in Woodstock School organized by author Steve Alter. Sunil Arora, secondgeneration owner of the Cambridge Book Depot, has a special section displaying books written by Mussoorie authors. All of them visit ‘Cambridge.’ including our old friend, and greatly-beloved children’s author. If he is in town on a Saturday, visitors could have him personally sign his books for them. The name’s Bond: Ruskin Bond. His apartment overlooks Mussoorie and the Doon and he has an almost-intuitive knowledge of the rhythm of life of Mussoorie, past and present When visitors ask us how they can get a panoramic overview of our hill station, we advise them to take a ride in the cable car from the terminus near the Jhula Ghar, halfway down the Mall, to the top of Gun Hill (no gun). From there one can see that Mussoorie stretches from the heights of Landour in the east to Waverley Hill on the west. To the north are the rising folds of the Garhwal Himalayas crowned by the peaks of the Eternal Snows. To the south lies the valley of the Doon with the Shiwalik Range as a barrier before the great Indo-Gangetic plains begin. It is over those blue Shiwaliks that the Winter Line flares, as it is doing right now. Text & photographs by HUGH & COLLEEN GANTZER

LUXURYTRAVEL Exclusive focus on luxe experiences on destinations and products in India and abroad

SILOLONA CRUISE

• AWARD WINNING MUNICH AIRPORT UNVEILS VIP LOUNGE • LUXURY YACHT SILOLONA SAILS TO REMOTE ISLANDS • VISIT THE CHAMPAGNE CAPITALS: REIMS AND EPERNAY • WHEN IN SHANGHAI, STAY IN FAIRMONT’S LUXURY

LUXURY TRAVEL AIRLINES

hat is the seating plan? What is the total number of Business Class seats available? American Airlines operates Boeing 777-200 aircraft on its New Delhi – Chicago O’Hare route, which offer a three-cabin layout including 37 lie flat business class seats in a seating configuration of 2-3-2.

How is the seat pitch, how much does it recline and how much leg space does one have? Continuing its focus on providing customers - and especially business customers - with greater comfort, flexibility and privacy, American Airlines flights feature ergonomic, fully adjustable lie-flat seats with five independent motors that offer extensive flexibility. Travellers can individually adjust any component of the seat, including the seat bottom, seat back, head rest, leg rest and leg rest extension. They can select one of the convenient preset positions to sit up, recline or lie flat

and then further fine-tune the comfort settings to suit their individual preferences. The seat features a memory setting so that passengers can easily return to a favourite seat position throughout a flight. Settings include two preset ‘lazy Z’ seat control positions for additional comfort when relaxing and enjoying the in-flight entertainment. American also offers innovative interlocking tray tables in business class which together create one of the largest dining or workspaces in the industry. There are two separate tables – one that lowers from the seat-back shell and a second that lifts from the centre console. The two tables can be used separately or together as needed. The business class seat pitch is 60-61" with a seat recline of 171°. The seat transforms into a 76" bed and offers a width of 21".

In terms of more privacy, have you incorporated compartments? American does not feature compartments in its business class, however the airline’s B777 business class seat has the unique ability to

move forward 10 inches while in the upright position. This allows passengers to become offset from their fellow travellers for added privacy, particularly when working using the interconnecting tray tables. At American, the intent is to provide the most comfortable and enjoyable travel experience for our customers. A privacy divider also exists which can be raised, or lowered, between seats as customers prefer.

What are the features of the kit bag that are given to fliers? As part of its focus on continually improving the customer experience, American Airlines recently introduced a new suite of in-flight amenities. In business class the kit includes a new premium duvet and a pillow, upgraded amenity kits and a pair of slippers. The trendier amenity kit features an Eames Office® design along with elite Dermalogica products featuring Active Moist Hand Cream, comb, pen, tissues, lip balm and a moist towlette to ensure that the time spent while travelling is as luxurious and enjoyable as possible.

Business Class on

AMERICAN AIRLINES Philip Lewin, Country Manager, India, American Airlines, speaks to Go Now about his airlines’ options for flying business class to Chicago.

GO NOW January 2012

LUXURY TRAVEL AIRLINES The full suite of products which also includes pyjamas, a lightweight day blanket and bed-topper, are available in American’s First Class cabins onboard all international flights served by Boeing 777s. American’s Business Class amenities are available onboard all international flights operated by Boeing 777s, 767-300s and international 757s. The products and services offered by the carrier reflect American’s commitment to

in-flight food service. American Airlines’ culinary team has influenced menus by creating exciting, flavourful selections. American works with its Chefs’ Conclave members, celebrity consulting chefs and catering kitchen staff to create and prepare balanced menus for its customers. These menus include a variety of options, from which customers may choose depending on their appetite. In addition to these menus, American works with quality suppliers to pro-

make American the airline of choice for high-value customers. Also, American Airlines is the first and only U.S. airline to offer pyjamas, slippers and a quilted bed topper as part of its turndown service.

duce special meals, which are designed to meet any dietary restrictions of the customers. The airline’s suppliers recognise the importance of special meals and provide the assurance that all wholly-prepared meals meet guidelines set forth for a specific special meal. In addition, special meals are made available on Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snack and Breakfast Snack flights when ordered at least 24 hours in advance of the customer’s flight. Special meals are offered in the following markets: ■ In First and Business Classes on transcontinental flights in the U.S. ■ In all classes to or from Europe and Asia ■ In all classes to or from Belo Horizonte, Recife, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador or Sao Paulo, Brazil; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Santiago,

Apart from the flexible eating hours, how does the menu appeal to the India pallet? American Airlines continues to introduce changes to the in-flight dining service in anticipation of travellers’ food and beverage preferences. Using expert knowledge from members of the American Airlines culinary team, the airline has expanded its culinary options and overall service throughout the aircraft. Since 1988, American Airlines has enlisted the expertise of well-respected celebrity chefs to help define the selection of its

Chile or Montevideo, Uruguay. American offers special meals to meet a variety of specific dietary and religious needs. American offers the following special dietary meals: diabetic, gluten intolerant, vegetarian vegan; and, Vegetarian Hindu on Delhi flights. American also offers special religious meals: Kosher, Muslim; and, Vegetarian Hindu on Delhi flights.

Which routes is it available

on for India? For India, these meals are available on the daily non-stop flight operated by American Airlines between New Delhi and Chicago O’Hare.

Do include rates and any special rates for the season? American has always believed in offering the best to its loyal customers whether it’s in terms of products and service or pricing. The carrier has recently overhauled its India – USA pricing structure which offers a great value for money all the airline’s customers, including those travelling in first and business class. Promotional New Delhi – Chicago O’Hare roundtrip Business Class fares are presently available for just INR 195643, inclusive of all taxes / charges. January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL AIRLINES/TRENDS What would you say is the USP that separates you from any other airline? Is there any particular feature that separates AA from its competitors? American Airlines continuously strives towards providing best-in-class services for their customers. All the services and products offered by American are tailor-made to ensure the swiftest and smoothest start and finish to our customers journey. The travel experience with American starts even before the flier boards the aircraft. For instance, for passengers on the New Delhi – Chicago route, this starts with the on-ground experience where our First and Business Class customers and top tier AAdvantage members can enjoy the use of superb new Kingfisher Lounge in Delhi or the Admirals Club Lounge in Chicago. American is also unique in providing a dedicated Premium Services team at Delhi to ensure a smooth journey for these most valuable customers. For corporate customers, American has a variety of different programmes available, offering differing benefits based on their annual company travel expenditure. Another feature which gives an edge to American Airlines is its conveniently scheduled nonstop flight from New Delhi to Chicago O’Hare. It is one of the first international arrivals into Chicago each morning, allowing customers to clear US customs with minimal delay. The airline’s rescheduled eastbound India flights from Chicago opens up more than 20 same-day connection opportunities for customers flying beyond Delhi, thereby creating extensive customer benefits. Finally, technology is a huge aspect of American’s focus with an aim to provide travellers with the information they need even while they are on the move. American offers a suite of mobile applications to enable customers to stay in touch with the airline before, during and between flights with ease. Meanwhile, it will also be the first North American airline to introduce a branded tablet – the Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 – to select international flights as an in-flight entertainment option and is the first North American airline to launch an in-flight video streaming product – Entertainment on Demand – in the U.S. This option allows customers to wirelessly stream content from an onboard library to their wifi enabled portable device. by RAHUL KUMAR

GO NOW January 2012

WHAT'S HOT FOR 2012? EXPERTSPEAK VIKRAM MADHOK From the experts in luxury travel, A&K’s Hot List for 2012 is the last word in inspirational holiday ideas. If it’s a cultural sojourn you’re after, a spiritual recharge, an enlightening wildlife encounter or an active adventure there is something here for first time and seasoned traveller alike. “Reading and reacting to current trends and tastes in travel”, says A&K India’s Managing Director Vikram Madhok, “our destination specialists have been busy researching new and interesting destinations where A&K delivers memorable experiences in reliable style. We present this exciting collection that we have identified as the next big thing! Happy travels.”

WHERE ON EARTH SHOULD YOU HEAD THIS YEAR? Croatia: It’s Europe’s new Riviera. Blessed with ancient monuments, a sundrenched coastline and turquoise seas it’s largely unspoilt by the hordes yet with its fair share of super yachts and glamorous A-listers. It offers a fabulous cultural heritage, superb beaches and has some of the best boating in the region.

Morocco: Colorful and exotic! It’s home to a fusion of Berber, Arabic and Moorish cultures. There are boutique riads, chic hotels and Bedouin tented camps with adventure aplenty. Suits the sedate leisure traveller interested in culture, cuisine and history as well as more active types who seek physical challenges in the form of hiking, horse riding or desert adventures.

Mexico: There’s something for everyone here from vast deserts to jungle, ancient Mayan ruins to tropical Caribbean beaches, snow-capped volcanoes to bustling modern cities. It’s beautiful and diverse, with breathtaking vistas, numerous cultures, cuisines, handicrafts, music and art forms. Mexico offers luxury destination experiences at great value.

Mexico

LUXURY TRAVEL AIRLINES/TRENDS

Croatia

Cuba: Classic cars, cigars, music, dance and colonial attractions - these are just some of the reasons to visit Cuba. See nostalgic Havana imbued with colonial style and 1950s flair, green tobacco landscapes, colonial Trinidad, mountain ranges of Sierra Escambra and pristine white beaches.

Myanmar: Beautiful, peaceful and unspoilt, this is a country which appeals to any south-east Asia aficionado. It has an ancient culture, wonderful monuments, friendly people, a strong textile and handicraft tradition and Buddhist festivals aplenty. Natural wonders are abundant too with the majestic Ayeyarwady River at the country’s heart, Inle Lake, little visited areas like Mrauk U on the west coast and the beaches of the far south. Russia: One of Europe’s most intriguing and fascinating destinations, Russia is a profusion of historic monuments and cultural attractions. See the extraordinary contrasts of Moscow where Soviet-era construction is joined by edgy futuristic architecture and the famous onion domes of St. Basil's and Red Square are not to be missed. For galleries, museums and grand designs, St Petersburg is where it’s at. And if you’re there between May and July the famous White Night’s arts festival is in full swing.

Uganda: Known as the Pearl of Africa, Uganda is an unexpected delight. Best known for its population of the endangered mountain gorilla, a spell at Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp gives you the best chances of an encounter with this extraordinary primate. There’s also chimpanzees and, in Queen Elizabeth National Park, a high density of plains game and predators. Tasmania: Quaint historic villages, seaside towns, national parks, fine food and wine and exquisite boutique accommodation make Tasmania a unique and fascinating short haul

Tasmania

getaway. It is also home to the thought provoking Museum of Old & New Art (MONA) and Australia’s newest super lodge, Saffire at Freycinet National Park.

Destinations for 2012 offering Expeditionary Cruising Amazon, Peru: The Amazon offers an unforgettable wilderness experience. It is the longest river in the world (7000km) and at the heart of a rainforest which covers over a billion acres. In Peru, the Amazon represents 60% of the entire country and is a must-see destination best experienced on a luxury cruise aboard MV Aqua or MV Aria where naturalist guides point out the extraordinary wildlife and natural phenomena of the area. The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador: Rated “Top Island” in the World’s Best Awards, the Galapagos archipelago is rightly hot. A year-round destination, its remote location 960kms off the coast of Ecuador rewards the adventurous with a dazzling array of plant and animal life. Famous as the inspiration for Darwin’s ‘The Origin of Species’, the place is a living laboratory best explored with expert guides onboard our ship Sanctuary MV Eclipse.

Antarctica: This is a destination of extremes: the weather is unpredictable, the distances long but the experience nothing short of remarkable. The landscapes are breathtaking and the wildlife in its natural habitat is delightfully unaffected by the presence of humans. Adventurous souls can see it all and in comfort on A&K’s MV Le Boreal which carries just 199 guests in a style unmatched on other expeditionary cruises.

January 2012 GO NOW

WORLD TRAVELLER AIRLINES

Turkish Airlinesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

NEW BUSINESS CLASS OFFERS HIGH-LEVEL COMFORT Turkish Airlines recently unveiled its new business class cabin on its A330-300 aircraft, for the Delhi-Istanbul service. Go Now brings you a first-hand experience of this luxury in the skyâ&#x20AC;Ś

stanbul, Turkey is on the wish list of many Indians. The number of visitors from the country is on the rise and in response to this burgeoning demand, Turkish Airlines introduced daily flights a couple of years ago. Being a direct and short flight (six and a half hours) that offers world-class service, its popularity and numerous awards in its kitty are no surprise. The airline takes its services to the next level with introduction of its new business class. I boarded Flight TK 717 that allowed me to experience the new class.

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Comfort at its best You probably cannot aim for higher level of comfort in a flight than offered by this one. Designed to allow enough space, there is room to sit comfortably with generous legroom or turn the seat into a flatbed and enjoy a good sleep. The cabin is laid out in a 2-3-2 configuration and offers fully reclinable 75 inch flat beds. A built in massager with a control unit that focuses on specific areas of your body ensure that you relax well. I like the fact that the video screen is fixed at a distance

WORLD TRAVELLER AIRLINES

CIP LOUNGE: WHERE WAITING IS A BLISS!

so you are not cramped for space while eating. Below it, there is space to keep your handbag and shoes.

When Hunger Calls Turkish Airlines has been awarded for best onboard catering. The credit goes to catering giant Do&Co. The airline boasts the world’s largest fleet of flying chefs on their new business class. Rightly deserving the award, the food is fresh and delectable. As welcome drinks, exotic champagne and fresh fruit juice are served. You can enjoy both Turkish and world cuisine. A must try are the wines from exclusive Turkish cellars.

Entertainment and More Entertainment on the flight begins from where you least expect it – safety instructions video. Instead of the mundane video featur-

ing staff, here, football icons tell you how to fasten your seatbelt and obviously not in the usual boring way! For real entertainment, there’s live, in-flight television on Trans-Atlantic flights, Turkish Airlines delivers high quality and seamless television programming. Your business can run as usual with high speed internet access and Wi-Fi available on board. You can stay connected by sending and receiving text messages and e-mails through in-flight connectivity. For entertainment, there are a plethora of movies and music options, which for a critical mind, could be improved. The Planet digital system offers close to 350 films and television series, dramas, documentaries, travel, food, and technology programs. Also

The newly renovated, CIP Lounge at the Istanbul International Airport allows you a pleasant time before your next flight. Long halts at airport before next flight are always dreadful. But if you are to wait in this lounge, you’d wish you had more time! Accessible for business class passengers, Miles&Smiles Elite, Elite Plus card holders as well as Star Alliance Gold membership card holders, there is a lot you can do while waiting for your next flight. Spread over 3,000 square meters, the lounge is capable of holding 2,000 passengers in a day. You can enjoy a wide variety of food, read in the library room, watch a movie, surf the internet or relax in one of the rooms. It also includes a billiards hall and a business center complete with all necessary technical equipment including WLAN internet. There are numerous drink stations and food bars with most delicious Turkish food provided by Do&Co. Enjoy a wide range of beverages and snacks such as sandwiches, croissants, pastries, tarts, tartlets, sweet and salted biscuits, nuts and a must try is the Turkish Pide, served fresh from the oven. The design of the lounge is very modern with a circular theme. The mirrored walls make it look spacious and stylish. There are no announcements inside the lounge to ensure uninterrupted relaxation. However, that means you have to constantly check your flight timings and other details. What’s more, if required, you can freshen up and make use of the shower facility.

available are 600 CD albums across genres such as Pop&Rock, Jazz&Blues, New Age, Rock and Turkish Folk music. What’s more, there are individual and multiple player game channels, children’s channel and an audio book channel on the flights. The news channel offers passengers world news, including economic, entertainment and weather report. Besides world-class comfort, the airline leaves a lasting impression on you with its warm service and delicious food making you wish you could spend some more hours in the sky. You can enjoy the new business class to more than 180 destinations around the world from Delhi and Mumbai. by PURVA BHATIA

January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL AIRPORT

ward Winning Enclave

Exotic European destinations have always lured wealthy and elite Indian frequent fliers and the impressive ambience of swish airports is all too familiar for frequent luxury airport lounge guests. Now they can look forward to being welcomed and pampered by decidedly the very finest and world’s most cherished gilded privileges. The new super luxury lounge

destination is the uber chic VIP Wing Luxury lounge at Europe’s finest rated airport, -Munich Franz Josef Strauss International. This award-winning airport is renowned around the world for more reasons than one can imagine. It is the only airport in the world with its own in-house brewery – the ‘Airbrau’. It boasts of a vibrant art gallery showcasing contemporary creations round the year has a giant indoor stadium-cum-are-

na hosting skating rinks in winter, the much celebrated lively Christmas market open to outside visitors, commercial brand launches and events, cheery ball games, music concerts and similar events. And for those with time on hand, it’s own bubbly beer garden.

Bavarian Design Charms Created as a highly privileged haven exquisitely for the uppercrust VIP flier who has the

Airport Luxury

THE MUNICH EXPERIENCE KISHORE AND SMITA IYENGAR live up ultimate elegance and style at the world’s finest, ultraluxurious international VIP Wing lounge at Munich Franz Josef Strauss International Airport.

Looking through the Plush Cigar Lounge 70

GO NOW January 2012

LUXURY TRAVEL AIRPORT high value resources, quality time and inclination to patronize this incomparable, uppercrust environment, the VIP Wing lounge lays out features and ‘firsts’ just reserved only for the blue blood, crèmede-la-crème guest. The host of exclusive privileges available to most discerning VIP guests, dignitaries and luminaries is second to none and is rated the finest anywhere. To make travel and relaxation flawless, German efficiency, precision and impeccable international standards reflect in every minute aspect. The VIP Wing extends gold carpet class with a chauffeured luxury limousine, an off-board pickup straight from the parked aircraft doors directly to the plush enscons of the VIP Wing lounge, to begin with.

VIP Wing Lounge

An exclusive passport control desk offers quick and instant processing, an exclusive security check, personalized baggage handling and rapid customs clearance are a whistle for the VIP Wing guests who then sail into the finest bespoke interiors for ultimate pampering with cutting-edge style and a host of unique add-ons.

Evocative Thematic Sophistication

German efficiency & precision reflect is every minute aspect of the design element.

The VIP Wing lounge is smartly and futuristically designed as a living contemporary showcase of typical Bavarian warmth and hospitality in a profusion of bright shades and furnishings that transports the verdant landscape of Germany’s richest region in specialty thematic enscons. The chopped, raw fawn-toned natural Bavarian Alpine wood blocks decking the reception area create a seamless synergy with the sparkling white overtones of the entire lounge, interspersed with pink. The viridian and bottle green matched with deep maroons, thrilling mauves and soft pastels that add cheer, positivity and contrast to the entire layout. Sweeping angled facades in plain matt white cutout cleverly into private business alcoves, minimalistic workstations and private individual studies. Interestingly designed themed lavish suites are named after fabled Bavarian castles like ‘Linderhof Castle’ with private bathroom, lounge and working area, ‘Neuschwanstein Castle’ with private dining, lounge and working enclosure and ‘Nymphenburg Castle’ with similar privileges and features. Exclusive prayer

rooms have been created for the faithful along with a private fine wining and dining hall and private conferencing lounge.

Style Statements The VIP Wing also encompasses spacious bath and shower facilities. But the icing on the Bavarian cake is an outdoor beer garden, a smart cigar lounge with Single Malts for company and fully equipped conference suites to cater to the busy corporate head or business boss. The bright and spacious dining lounge in accents of olive green, chrome and white extends self-serve refreshments and drinks. It’s an interactive haven for relaxation as one can chat with friendly behind-the-desk service specialists and pick their choice of superb Bavarian wheat beer, dry white and red wines from the fairytale Franconia region in Bavaria or fine spirits. Chaises and lounging sofas in soft furnishings with avant-garde settees create incomparable elegance of the highest level. As you gently toast with the choicest, world famous Bavarian draught wheat beer and murmur ‘Prost’ with crisp Pretzels, you needn’t ever think about checking in to your onward flight, tax refunds or ascending to your aircraft doors directly, moments before taxiing off! It’s effortlessly taken care of so you can simply glide back in the waiting luxe limo and onward onto the waiting wings. That’s precisely “Gruez Gott in Munich!” Text & photographs by KISHORE & SMITA IYENGAR

January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL CRUISE

Luxury On-board

SILOLONA

If discovering remote islands while on an indulgent private expedition has been on your bucket list, then itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time you strike it off. Far away from group cruises, luxury yacht Silolona promises breathtaking experiences for holiday makers and adventure seekers.

GO NOW January 2012

LUXURY TRAVEL CRUISE

January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL CRUISE

ilolona offers something that is difficult to find on the Indian subcontinent – sailing in untapped waters, discovering remote islands, all within spacious accommodations and a plenitude of amenities. “Silolona is not a mass market product,” says Hita Almeida, Branch Head, Heavens Portfolio “but a wonderful life changing experience, which has touched many lives.”

A Phinisi – Built By Hand Built as a traditional wooden sailboat, a Phinisi was first built by hand by the Sulawesi Konjo people in 2004. Conceptualized as a luxury passenger vessel, the Silolona was designed to be classic in line and style, and to reflect the stringent demands dictated by the Lloyd’s Register for wooden vessel construction, ensuing the highest levels of safety and performance. With a speed of 10 to 12 knots, she comes with state of the art equipThe interiors and decor are tastefully done

The private staterooms are named after Indonesian Islands

GO NOW January 2012

ment, in a cosy decor. “The concept of Silolona is a private resort on water and often hosts,” continues Almeida “one family group, or a group of friends sharing the experience. We’ve also seen couples chartering the whole ship for a dream holiday or a honeymoon.”

Traditional Built, Plush Interiors Constructed of ironwood, trimmed in teak, it gleams in red-hues of lengua; it was designed by Pati Seery – the owner of Silolona. The yacht has three decks: upper sun deck, lower front deck and lounging deck for sun bathing and visual treats. Other features include an interior lounge and a dining room along with an outdoor lounge and al-fresco dining section. Cabin interiors are distinguished with thematic touches of antique and traditional decor including themes of Java, Asmat, Bali, Borneo and Sumba. Silolona has five cabin suites plush with

The Legend of Silolona Long ago, when the earth was still young, the gallant and fearless Atuf fell in love with the most beautiful woman in all Tanimbar. In the time of the ancestors the sun was too close to the earth. Life was so harsh that Silolona died in the full flower of her youth. Atuf deeply mourned her death and conceived a daring plan to build a boat capable of sailing towards the sun. When the boat was launched, Atuf’s pure and powerful voice called forth the spirit of his beloved wife to join him on his dangerous journey. Atuf gave the name Silolona to his magnificent new boat. With renewed strength Atuf then hurled his magical spear shattering the sun and creating all the stars and constellations.

LUXURY TRAVEL CRUISE

factfile HOW TO GET THERE For cruises in East Indonesia, guests must fly to Bali and a domestic flight to reach the boat will be arranged by the company. For cruises in Langkawi, guests must fly to Langkawi International Airport. For cruises from Phuket in Thailand, guests must fly to Phuket International Airport A CRUISE ABOARD SILOLONA Silolona costs USD 15,500++ per day for a full boat charter. All cruises are custom made based on the destinations, number of days, season. For bookings and more information: indianoffice@heavensportfolio.com www.silolona.com www.heavensportfolio.com

do, Raja Ampat and Komodo National Park. The Park is great for beach hopping and watching the Komodo dragons in their habitat. “Although Manado is a bit out of the way,” says Almeida, “Silolona can design cruises to that area.”

Silolona and Banda Islands

The traditional wooden sail boat is not without modern luxuries

travellers’ requirements and can accommodate up to 10 guests. Apart from a 17 member crew at all times, entertainment options like large screen plasma TV, sound system, a collection of movies and music are also available in your suite. Diving is inclusive, but PADI certification courses are at cost. The ships specialty in food is mostly South East Asian cuisine but the Chef can also whip up dishes according to guests’ preferences. The delicacies are sent to guests for pre-approval. It is also possible to have a massage therapist or yoga teacher onboard.

Indonesian Waters, Tribal Islands Silolona cruises in Indonesia from June to September, sailing up to Malaysia (Langkawi based cruises in Thailand) during the months of November and December. Keeping away from the stormy season, she goes to Myanmar (in the Mergui Archipelago) till February, and is in operation all year. For cultural expeditions, the upcoming season which is suitable to explore the eastern islands of Indonesia also includes visiting Papua tribes and witness their woodcarving skills in the Asmat Art Auction usually held in October. Three of the major best diving spots in the world are located in Indonesia: Mana-

Silolona also sails to the Banda archipelago with a total land area of about 16 square miles, which has been instrumental in shaping the course of history greatly disproportionate to its size. The itinerary involves a visit to the Banda islands, old forts and even a wonderful candlelight dinner overlooking the islands, at the King’s pavilion. The dive and snorkel sites of the Banda Islands are among the top destinations in Indonesia for both experts and amateurs. They feature world class sites with visibility reaching 30-40 meters, November being the ideal month for the same.

Langkawi and South Islands, Thailand The Langkawi group consists of 104 islands, which offer white sandy beaches, tropical rainforests, and many protected beautiful anchorages. Depending upon sea conditions and guest preferences, the Silolona can take one to Pulao Chuku, Ko Tanga, Koh Bulan and Koh Khao Yai islands which are most uninhabited and great for snorkelling, diving, kayaking and fishing. Sea caves can be found at Tharnbok Korannee National Park, while the Phi-Phi Island is occupied by tourists for its pristine beauty. compiled by MANAVI SIDDHANTI

January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL FEATURE

CHAMPAGNE All in a Bottle of Bubbly

A sparkling wine associated with celebration, Champagne was best described by Dom Perignon, for “Come quickly, I am tasting stars”. Go Now traces the legend of this concoction by going to the the champagne capitals of the world – Reims and Epernay.

hen you plan a visit to Reims you don’t really intend staying there for more than a long weekend. But the beautiful countryside and heritage streets, home to the world’s finest champagne labels urge you to change your plans. Abundant in picturesque lakes, forests, pretty floral villages and steep hillsides, Champagne can sustain you for a week if not less. Reims, the city of kings and the gateway to Champagne is only 45 minutes by train from Paris on the TGV and an ideal location for a Grape vacation. Arriving in Reims with a minimum of fuss, a walk to familiarize oneself with the city is ideal. It’s a city with some character that’s for sure; the architecture of the city is very traditional in some parts and modern in others. Reims played a prominent

GO NOW January 2012

ceremonial role in French monarchical history as the traditional site of the crowning of the kings of France. The most talked about site is Notre-Dame de Reims, one of the three UNESCO world heritage sites. The region offers everything from cultural tours in the city

MUST VISIT CHAMPAGNE HOUSES Moet & Chandon @ 20 Avenue de Champagne à Epernay. Billecart-Salmon @ 40 Rue Carnot à Mareuil sur Ay. Laurent-Perrier @ Avenue de Champagne à Tours sur Marne. Champagne Jean Moutardier @ Chemin des Ruelles au Breuil. Champagne Aubry @ 4 et 6 Grande Rue à Jouy les Reims.

to walking and cycling among vineyards. Alternatively, for a truly unique experience, indulge 30 meters into the cellars of a Champagne maker or even better, learn the art of sabrage – the art of taking the top off your Champagne bottle in exuberant style.

Unexploring Underground Champagne Cellars Many of the Champagne houses offer visits, usually with a glass of Champagne thrown in, some charging a nominal fee. Set in old former Roman chalk mines, with elaborate bas-reliefs carved into the chalk face, most of these cellars are quite spectacular, and some so large that you cover ground on a little train. Our first champagne house was ‘Taittinger’ where we heard all about the art of

Basics of Choosing Your Champagne Heavy foods or main entrees, usually do not go well with Champagne, however there are innumerous foods that pair beautifully with it, making for yummy finger foods and an elegant looking soirée. The food you serve with champagne should be light, not spicy and not oily. According to Rajiv Singhal, Ambassador of Champagne to India “Food like oysters, lobsters and caviar beg for good champagne. It is just as easy to drink champagne, at any time of the day, for any emotion.” As far as the types of bubbly go, Blanc de noirs is a white wine that is produced completely from black grapes whereas Blanc de blances are made from Chardonnay grapes.

Rose champagne is made by leaving the clear juice of black grapes to macerate on their skins or by adding a red wine to the sparkling wine cuvee. The sweetness of your champagne is determined by the amount of sugar that is added after the second fermentation. A champagne sweetness varies based on which you can go for Brut Sauvage which contains no sugar, Brut which contains 1.5% of sugar, Dry/Sec which has 4% sugar and finally Doux which is relatively sweeter and has 10% sugar. All these varieties are available in India by Moet & Chandon, Tattinger, Laurent Perrier and GH Mumm.

Rheims

January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL ?????

Cafe Du Palais

Champagne making. Made from the Chardonnay grape it can only be classified as Champagne if made in the specified region and according to a set process called ‘methode champenoise’. It was interesting to learn that all sparkling wines must go through a process called riddling. This is the technique of turning each bottle an eighth to a quarter turn every day for two weeks and simultaneously tilting them at increasingly steeper angles. This is what allows the sediment to gather in one place and collect in the neck of the bottle for easy removal. Historically, all bottles were hand-riddled, but today, much of it is done by machines allowing up to 50,000 bottles can be riddled per day.

region to send you exploring. In ‘Moet & Chandon’, what catches your eye is the statue of the famous Dom Perignon, the Benedictine Monk (supposed to have invented Champagne) who doubled the size of the Abbey’s vineyard while it was under his stewardship. The cellar tour reeks of heritage and history of the brand; I found it very enlightening, walking in the footsteps of Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte-an admirer of the sparkling drop. Moet & Chandon founded in 1747 is known to make more champagne than anyone else in the world. After touring some parts of the 28 kilometers of caves carved in chalk, it was time for the most important thing tasting: a joyful time for anybody who appreciates his glass of champagne.

House of Moet & Chandon in Epernay

How to Choose Your Tour

If you follow the Rue de Champagne down through little towns lies Epernay, home to the famed House of Moet & Chandon the birthplace of champagne. With major champagne houses and cellars, the countryside of Epernay is littered with ever-growing vineyards amongst hills. The Epernay tourist information center offers a detailed map of the

To ensure the quality of your Grape Escape, go on a short grape tour for not more than 24 people. This has a number of benefits including access to the broadest range of Champagne Houses and restaurants and better service. With more intimate atmosphere than that you can enjoy in a larger group, it also gives you the scope of directing more questions

GO NOW January 2012

factfile Champagne-Ardenne region (the official name) is in northeastern France, 129km northeast of Paris Visa and Currency: Indians require a Schengen Visa to enter France and the currency used is the Euro (approximately 65 INR). Best Way to Reach: by Air France to Paris and then take a TGV onto Reims. Best Place to Stay: Hostellerie La Briqueterie (restaurant has a Michelin Star) 4, Route de Sézanne, 51530 VINAY, Tel: 00 33 (0)3 26 59 99 99 Fax: 00 33 (0)3 26 59 92 10, www.labriqueterie.fr

regarding the heralding legacy of Champagne. You are not obliged to buy Champagne but it is a great idea to get a bottle or two having watched the manufacturing process. Almost all houses have souvenir shops stocked with signature items to take home for memories worth a lifetime. As for me, I carried home a Dom Perignon de ‘Moet & Chandon’ and ‘Comites de Champagne’ de Tattinger! Text & photographs by RUPALI DEAN IN CHAMPAGNE

January 2012 GO NOW

LUXURY TRAVEL STAY

Fairmont Peace Hotel

SHANGHAI

In 1929 and Now, a Benchmark for Luxury in the City 80

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LUXURY TRAVEL STAY

or Indian readers, the Chinese hotel with an Indian connection is how Fairmont Peace Hotel can best be described as. Mind you, there is no exaggeration here. When the Cathay Hotel was formally opened to the world in August 1929, it was applauded as the world’s most beautiful hotel. One of the first hotels to have an air conditioning, it set a benchmark for luxury and architectural designs in Shanghai.

The India Connection It is said that Shanghai would not have been the same without the extravagance and humour of Sir Victor Sassoon, a global entrepreneur. He came from Iraq, made his money in Bombay and later moved to Shanghai to build China’s first high-rise building the Cathay Hotel. The building which had a 360 degrees view of the city, served as his office headquarters, his home and also as the hotel. Sassoon is credited with constructing buildings in Mumbai, Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai. In Shanghai, which was established as China’s port city in 1843, Sassoon had nearly 1,000 properties. “The thing about Sir Sassoon was the coming together of vision and fortune,” says Jenny Laing-Peach, the Heritage Programme Consultant of Fairmont.

hotel which also was host to comic actor Charlie Chaplin and actress Pauletter Goddard. Ironically, the hotel was on the list of a number of celebrities as a honeymoon destination. Legendary boxer Muhammed Ali too stayed at the hotel with his wife, apart from the heads of states who would visit China. Both Shanghai and Cathay Hotel prospered on the other’s fame. The port city was a powerful trade centre and, a rich one too, there was a lot of trade between India and Shanghai. It was such a city of such allure that

it attracted people of intellect from across the world and allowed exchange of people and ideas. Even India’s first Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore visited Shanghai many times. Sassoon, who was widely travelled, named his suites after different countries including India, Japan, the UK and the USA.

Eyewitness to History With history of over 80 years behind it, the hotel has seen everything – conflicts, revolution, wars and the rise and rise of Shanghai

Jasmine Lounge

A Destination Too It was soon after its opening that the hotel became a destination in itself. Nobel Prize laureate George Bernand Shaw stayed at the The roof-top is an architectural landmark

January 2012 GO NOW

The Willow Stream Spa

spacious bathrooms

Dates to Remember ☛ August 1929 – The Cathay Hotel opens, setting a benchmark in hotel luxury ☛ August 1937 – Cathay Hotel guests watch from roof-top the 2nd battle of Shanghai ☛ October 1949 – China celebrates its first National Day, making it the People’s Republic of China ☛ March 1956 – World Peace Conference convenes in Beijing as the Peace Hotel opens in Shanghai ☛ April 2007 – The Peace Hotel undergoes a three-year luxury restoration and renovation programme ☛ July 2010 – Fairmont Peace Hotel opens up to guests once again after renovation

The English Suite

and, of course, China. Part of the hotel was destroyed during the 2nd battle of Shanghai when a bomb destroyed its eastern entrance in the 1940s. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, it was converted into an office building but was renamed The Peace Hotel in 1956 by the Government. It was one of the two hotels that was permitted to receive foreign envoys and became a haven for visitors from the Soviet Block and other friendly countries. The hotel received a shot in the arm after the opening of up China in the 1970s, when, people curious to see how China had been over the decades flocked to it.

Fairmont Steps In Fairmont took over the management of the hotel, taking over its restoration and revival in 2007. It was an eclectic team of interior 82

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designers, architects, the Shanghai Institute of Architectural Design and Research, local historians and art-deco specialists who worked on a restoration for over three years. The team even launched a worldwide search for memorabilia and documentary evidence to join together the building’s journey of being used as a hotel, an office, residential quarters, penthouses and so much more. The search led to the collection of trivia as varied as pepper shakers to Polaroid photographs which are now on display at the hotel’s gallery. The General Manger of the Fairmont Peace Hotel, Kamal Namaani says: “The restoration was done in a very methodical way. We ensured that contemporary modern influences and luxury was added to the hotel even as we restored its aura of times gone past.” One of the most iconic historical influ-

ences in the hotel is the much-cherished Old Jazz Band, often referred to as the Old Man Jazz Band. The band, comprising wizened old men in their 80’s, carries on the tradition that has continued since the 1930s – it plays nostalgic Western dance tunes from the 1920s and 1930s, tinged with a few contemporary numbers. It is a delight to the see old men perform – as each one takes rest after every number but picks up his instrument on the next piece.

Number Crunching The revamped hotel has 270 rooms and suites including nine national suites and one Sassoon Presidential Suite, apart from suites that are very different in terms of design and decor. The hotel’s Willow Stream Spa has 11 treatment rooms, an array of relaxation areas as well as a private sky-lit swimming pool. With China continuing to remain a hot destination for business, the hotel has kept the needs of the modern traveller in mind. It

The in-room dining menu is extensive

has dedicated an entire floor named Fairmont Gold to business visitors creating for them an exclusive Fairmont Gold Lounge, along with a conference and convention business centre. The hotel also has a restored hall, the Peace Hall, with art-deco detailing, Lalique glass chandeliers and a high ceiling. This space caters to product launches as well as incentive events. Its original white maple dance floor has been retained after giving it an excellent sheen. On the same floor as the Peace Hall are multi-functional classicallystyled salons for more intimate discussions. The hotel has six dining and entertainment areas which provide European cuisine, Chinese dishes as well as a French CafĂŠ menu. The other places are Cin Cin which is a cigar and wine bar while for classic cocktails the preferred place is the Jazz Bar, when the old man play Jazz.

factfile Fairmont Peace Hotel 20 Nanjing Road East, Shanghai 200002, China. Tel: +86-21-6321 6888 Fax: +86-21-6329 1888 Email: peacehotel@fairmont.com www.fairmont.com/peacehotel ROOMS & SUITES Fairmont Rooms - 76; Deluxe Rooms 115; Fairmont Gold Rooms - 19; Fairmont Gold Grand rooms - 21; Fairmont Gold One-Bedroom Suites - 4; One-Bedroom Suites - 17; Signature Riverview Ssuites - 8; Nations Suites - 9; Sassoon Presidential Suite - 1 Distance from Pudong International airport - 50 kms. Distance from Hongqiao International airport - 20 kms China Currency: RMB Yuan Time Zone: GMT+8

The multi-purpose Peace Hall

Location The hotel is located at the classiest point in the city, The Bund, which too has an India connection. The word comes from the Hindi word bundh meaning embankment, which was the name given by the British who constructed this area along the Huangpu River. Most of this area is historically significant and has been declared so by the Shanghai Municipal Corporation. The hotel offers interesting views of the new business district that has sprung up on the other side of Huangpu in the last two decades with modern constructions, iconic architecture and lavish designs. The Bund is also host to night clubs as well as haute brands from across the world. Within in walking distance is the Pearl Lam fine art gallery and nearby tourist spots include the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Square,

the Shanghai Art Museum, the Yu Yuan Garden, the Jade Buddha Temple and many more sight seeing spots.

The Last Word A visit to the Fairmont Peace hotel will guarantee glimpses of India in Shanghai. It goes to the credit of the hotel management that it takes immense pride in preserving the historicity of the building and the fables associated with it. The hotel remains an icon of globalization even before globalization was formally known and understood the way it is now. This is one department in which the Chinese Government-owned hotel, built by a global entrepreneur and managed by a Canadian chain excels. by RAHUL KUMAR IN SHANGHAI

January 2012 GO NOW

HOTELSCAPES

THE WESTIN SOHNA RESORT & SPA

All about hotels & hospitality

• CHECK-OUT FERRNHILL PALACE IN OOTY • ISTA OPENS LUXURY HOTEL IN AMRITSAR • ANALYSING BRAND PULLMAN • THE GREAT KABAB FACTORY SKEWERS A SUCCESSFUL RECIPE

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WelcomHeritage Ferrnhill Royaal Palace, Ooty

THE MYSTERY PALACE If you have been an avid reader of Enid Blyton and have wondered long and deep about the fanciful houses with mystery closets, secret wood paneling, floors that would creak, keys that would clang, cottages hidden in the woods then this is your chance to live the stories you read. Pack your bags and check in at the WelcomHeritage Ferrnhills Royaal Palace, Ooty.

The back of the hotel is suitable for a lazy afternoon lunch.

xtensive lawns, a long driveway, tall pine woods and an aura of mystery is the first thing that you notice when you enter the Ferrnhills Royaal Palace, Ooty. One of the first royal properties to be converted into a hotel after the privy purses were abolished in 1970, Ferrnhills Royaal Palace was opened for business in 1975. Till today it has been maintained the way it was – showing the opulence and the grandeur of the royal family. It does not have rooms. It has suites. For decorations it does not have glossy modern-day accessories, it has artefacts that have seen history. Architects and interior designers have little do to in the decorations, choice of fittings and refurbishments in the property. Every little aspect has been 88

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done by the king as was the case with his ancestors. The thought behind this is that the king wanted people to live and experience the old world charm – tradition, character and style associated with the royalty.

History The story of the heritage hotel goes back to 1844 when the British built the first bungalow on the Fern Hill. The property kept changing hands and was also put to different uses till a 12-year old prince bought the property for Rs 10,000 in 1873. It is said that Chamarajendra Wadiyar X was the first Indian royal to buy an English holding in Ooty and it has ever since remained with the Wadiyar dynasty, or the Mysore royal family. It is with pride

that L. Kannan, the general manager of the hotel says: “Walking distance from the Ferrnhills Royaal Palace are numerous English-styled buildings with exotic plants and gardens that once belonged to the royal family of Mysore but were given away to the Karnataka government.”

Interiors and Architecture The 40-acre hotel with a 150-year old history has sprawling lawns and thick forests that overlook tea estates and green valleys. The entire palace, with British-inspired architecture, has been paneled in Burmese teak. An architectural delight is the highdomed magnificent ballroom with a richly done ornamental papier mache ceiling.

The Ballroom is rich in its decor.

factfile

The Curry & Rice multi-cuisine restaurant.

WelcomHeritage Ferrnhills Royaal Palace, Nilgiris, Ooty, Tamil Nadu, India - 643004 For booking 011-46035500. Email: holidays@welcomheritagehotels.com

Eating at Ferrnhills

The hotel has 30 suites, all of which are liberally sprinkled with wood closets, chest of drawers and ancient dressers. What catches your eye immediately is the fireplace provided in every room as also the ballroom. The suites are richly done with sitting rooms, dressings rooms, and spacious baths with jaccuzi. The long corridors of the hotel have been decorated with hundreds of photoframes, depicting events and showing portraits of the royal family. Every nook and corner displays works of art collected by the royals. The numerous seating spaces in the ball room have an eclectic mix of furniture. The glass and wood doors and windows are stylishly old.

The two F&B outlets at the hotel have striking names – Curry & Rice multi-cuisine restaurant and the Fox Hunt Bar. The restaurant gets its name from a satirical book Curry and Rice on Forty Plates published in London in 1859 on the lives of the newly arrived British in India. The book not only inspired the name for the restaurant but also the large eye-catching murals on the walls that depict the life of the local people during British times. The Fox Hunt Bar takes your breath away because of the warm wood that covers it from floor to ceiling. The name comes from the annual hunting activities that used to be marked with pomp and splendor. The bar walls are decorated with saddles, harnesses, horns and photographs – remnants of paraphernalia associated with game.

Making the Most of the Palace A most enjoyable part of being at Ferrnhills Royaal Palace is to eat out on the lawns, facing the valleys and letting the warm sun soothe your back. To add to the tranquility of a lazy sunny lunch, take a leisurely walk about the considerable woods on the property. The regally decorated ballroom is the other space where guests can enjoy a leisurely chat with tea and snacks. The hotel also adds to the balmy ambience of the place. If the guests want to have a match of cricket, the hotel will roll out the pitch. “Often, we get a bus load of tourists from Coimbatore who visit the Ferrnhills

Royaal Palace for a day – just to have a friendly cricket match and relax in the sun,” says Kannan. The hotel has a billiards table and a carom table but no swimming pool as yet, which is mostly likely to happen by next year. Though mostly for tourists and people wanting a break from city life, the Fernhills Palace also provides two board rooms which can accommodate about 100 to 120 guests. Horse riding and trekking are the other activities that the hotel arranges for its guests. Depending upon the interests of the guests, the hotel advises them to take an experiential trekking tour of the hill station which takes them to a golf course, past old buildings, gardens, tea estates and small woods. by RAHUL KUMAR IN OOTY

January 2012 GO NOW

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ISTA Amritsar

BRINGS NEW STANDARDS TO THE CITY Ista Hotel in Amritsar offers you an unmatched experience in the city. Indulge in spa, eat your heart out and enjoy a comfortable stay in the holy city. Go Now reviews the hotel…

Presidential Suite Collage – the all-day dining restaurant.

ou wouldn’t expect a world-class spa in a hotel in Amritsar, however luxurious. In all probability, you wouldn’t be bothered about the hotel as you might not be even staying overnight. Well, most of the one lakh visitors coming to the city to visit Shri Harmandar Sahab (Golden Temple) fall into that category. Though I was in the city for work, there wasn’t anything striking I was expecting. But my stay at Ista Hotel surprised me. The hotel scores over the fact that there aren’t many hotels in the same segment in the city. I notice the absence of high rise buildings as I look out of the window of my room on the top floor. The one in the vicinity is the Alpha Mall right next to this hotel which means retail therapy is only a stone throw away. The hotel provides you a free shuttle service to The Golden Temple, which is a 15 minutes drive from the property. In terms of the experience and facilities it offers, the hotel has everything for both business as well as leisure travellers. It has a huge banqueting space, excellent dining options and facilities like the spa to indulge in and relax.

Contemporary Interiors & Design The hotel interiors and design elements are young and chic. There’s enough natural light that brightens the interiors. The room size does appear small; however, you’d appreciate an efficient use of the space. There are a total of 248 rooms, with ten suites on the eleventh floor. Each room offers Wi-fi/ broadband internet access, a personal bar, an electronic safe, tea and coffee maker, a bedside panel for all electronic and temperature control. Also, there is a pillow menu with a range of varied pillows to choose from. 90

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HOTELSCAPES CHECK OUT

factfile Room Tariff: Starting from Rs 5,200 per night (as avail on website) Location: Alpha City Center Premises, G.T. Road, Amritsar, Punjab 143001, India. Phone: 91- 0183 270 8888 Distance from Airport & Railway station Airport: 14km/30min from Amritsar Airport. Railway Station: 6km, 15min istahotels.com

An Indulgent Spa Experience Ista Hotels are owned by IHHR Hospitality Pvt. Ltd, known for its luxury destination spa ‘Ananda in the Himalayas’. Given the pedigree, you know what to expect at the spa! It certainly has been one of the best spa experiences for me. We recommend specialty treatments like Aromatherapy, Swedish massage, Ista Touch and Crystal Healing offered at the spa. The treatments not just rejuvenate your body but also work on your mind. The masseurs are well-trained and possess good knowledge of the treatments. Spread in an area covering 3500 sq ft, the spa has 8 treatment rooms, 3 for Ayurveda, 1 for oriental therapies and 4 multi purpose rooms. There’s a luxurious steam and sauna facility and a reflexology footbath. Also, there’s a temperature controlled swimming pool that completes the leisure facilities at Ista.

Dining Out

Lotus Lounge

The design element are strikingly chic.

When in Punjab, you don’t have to be bothered about a good meal. The dining options in the hotel do not disappoint you. There are three restaurants: Collage – all day dining; Thai Chi – fine dining offering cuisine from Thailand and China and Lounge Bar – offering a lounge experience with a selection of beverages. Thai Chi is a bit of a surprise in a city where people don’t really love to experiment with food. It’s therefore not surprising that Amritsari cuisine served at Collage is more popular with visitors as well as local crowd than the Thai and Chinese cuisines. Next time, you are in the city we recommend staying at the hotel for the experience. You can take an early morning Volkswagen coach (provided by the hotel) to the Golden Temple and go for a heritage walk to explore the city. Only the small size of the rooms might disappoint some but overall the hotel is complete in terms of the facilities it offers. by PURVA BHATIA IN AMRITSAR January 2012 GO NOW

HOTELSCAPES TRENDS

How Hoteliers See Business Growth and New Opportunity in 2012

ith the Ministry of Tourism forecasting exponential growth in the domestic tourism sector for 2012, an estimated 700 million people will be travelling across India’s vast swathes in the coming year. What will be the overarching trends in the hospitality industry? Trade pundits predict that 2012 will continue to be a year of change characterized by strong companies leveraging the advantage of new opportunities whilst others will be hunkering down to survive or avoid change. Value for luxury: According to Sanjay Sharma, Complex General Manager, The Westin Gurgaon, New Delhi and The

experience. India's brand recall as a luxury destination has evolved from opulence and palatial splendor to a refined form of luxury that is subtle and highly personalized.” In keeping with this credo, Westin has recently launched a new venue- Bale Bengong -- for intimate dinners – at Sohna. The idea? Timeless dining experiences through ultimate luxury! Ergo guests here can enjoy a private affair with their own butler, customized music and a specially-crafted menu for the occasion. “In the coming years, there will be less and less written rules or fixed guidelines in the luxury hospitality market,” explains the GM. “Hoteliers will have to sense what the customer wants – sometimes

Trident Gurgaon

Westin Sohna Resort and Spa, a perceptible trend among the domestic tourists in India in 2012 will be an increased emphasis on value for luxury. “The new age traveler,” elucidates Sharma, “is a keen discerner of luxury and brands. And increasingly, hotels and resorts will be catering to this segment by serving up newer and more refined experiences.” A corollary trend, according to Sharma, will be ‘Glocalization’ or creating ‘destinations’ rather than hotels. “More and more travelers will visit a city not because it holds attraction for them,” elaborates Sharma, “but because there is a rejuvenation and relaxation (R&R) abode that they would like to

GO NOW January 2012

Eggspectation Rest

even before he realizes it himself – to stay ahead of competition.” Capturing all market segments: It is this pursuit of experiential travel, say experts, that will spur hotels and resorts to widen their catchment area and become multiple-point attractions. “Weekend getaway destinations will be very popular,” elaborates Oliver C. Martin, General Manager, The Claridges, Surajkund, “because they are close to the city and commute times involving lengthy waits at airports are cut out of the equation.” Martin emphasizes that it will be critical “to have a high capture rate and to attract all market segments”. The Claridges, for instance, elucidates the GM, not only offers top-of-the-line MICE fa-

HOTELSCAPES TRENDS

cilities but also a kids' club, an adult pool along with a kids’ pool, outdoor lawns, wellness/ weekend/ family/ romantic and indulge packages. It also proffers detox/ weight loss/ beauty packages, golf course and biking/ hiking facilities. “We might scale up our menu even further by offering medical/ beautification facilities as well at our spa,” he adds. The 287-roomed, award-winning hotel also offers a lounge bar, an art lounge, a gymnasium and an outdoor infinity pool. Its walkin wine library stocks a vast selection of old and new world wines from several countries. There are complimentary wine appreciation sessions every evening while kids can enjoy cookie baking classes on demand. The MICE segment, according to the official, will grow in double digits. He feels that The Claridges is truly well positioned as a business resort to tap into a unique niche in the market which makes it an adaptable destination. “We are a MICE/corporate hotel during the week and one of Delhi's premier getaway

to Cafe, Jaypee Greens & Spa, Greater Noida

destinations on weekends,” explains Martin. “Both market segments are projected for growth in the upcoming year and we will be offering innovative products and services to them.” Staycations: An aggressive and inclusive strategy, say travel experts, will be vital to stay competitive and afloat in the cutthroat hospitality market in the coming years. Benita Sharma, General Manager, WelcomHotel Sheraton New Delhi says that in keeping with the market dynamics, they will offer inventive packages under the umbrella of ITC Hotel's ‘Welcombreak’. “There is an emerging trend of ‘staycation’ in hotels worldwide,” elucidates Sharma, “where residents are becoming guests

in their own cities to escape the rigors of everyday life. We are keen to capitalize on this trend by offering guests short breaks which also include discounts on F&B.” Sheraton’s staycation packages also offer babysitting facilities and health menus and nutritious dining. The dishes in the hotel's health menu use ‘locavore’ ingredients which support reducing a carbon footprint. Through its popular Sunday brunches, says Sharma, the hotel engages with entire families. At Pan Asian, the hotel’s award-winning Oriental cuisine eatery, the brunching brigade may plump for flavors from Sichuan, explore Korean cuisine or indulge in the subtleties of Japanese fare. There is also a special “young adult” menu in rooms and at Baywatch. Inventive F&B concepts: As food and travel are intrinsically linked, inventive F&B concepts will play a stellar role. According to Executive Chef Rajkamal Chopra, WelcomHotel Sheraton New Delhi, guests will want to explore new cuisines with premium spirit pairing.” “Guests are well-traveled and are quite clued in about high-end products from across the world. They want to experience global cuisines with a superlative presentation in combination with fine alcohol pairing,” he explains. The expert ascribes this trend to the augmented purchasing power of the guests and the influx of expat chefs. “Both these have led to an exponential growth in the consumption of quality products and innovation in the F&B industry,” he reasons. For instance, Sheraton’s Pan Asian recently showcased the ‘Flavors of East Asia’ where two maestros came together to curate the best of Japanese cuisine. Visiting Master Distiller Miyamoto from Tokyo delved deep into decades of experience to pair culinary masterpieces of Chef Nakamura with Japanese malts. The Suntory whiskeys – Hibiki 17 years and Yamakazi 12 years from Japan were in fact paired for the first time in India with Japanese cuisine. Holistic family rejuvenation: According to Subroto Banerjee, Vice President, Jaypee Resorts, with work schedules getting tighter, vacationers are looking at holistic rejuvenation with their families. Here, the cachet includes complete mind-body R&R at a single destination, preferably with golf, spa, gourmet food and recreation all thrown in sans the headache of traveling too far from home, he says. Banerjee offers an interesting analogy here. He says very few successful products in contemporary times are uni-dimensional. “Multitasking is the order of the day,” he elaborates. “So your phone offers a camera, an organizer and can also access the net. Similarly, your TV, your camera, your computer – all gadgets transcend being just single service providers. The concept of malls too, means you have everything under one roof. So, modern day resorts too, are accordingly customizing their offerings.”

January 2012 GO NOW

HOTELSCAPES TRENDS

The changing dynamics of the Indian family: According to David Mathews, General Manager, The Trident, Gurgaon, though Indians have traditionally favored noncity destinations for their vacations, corporate stress and the changing dynamics of the Indian family (proliferation of nuclear families) is increasingly propelling people towards weekend getaways at an accessible destination. “It could be parents wanting to escape from kids or nuclear families looking to bond over weekend stays in today’s time-scrunched world,” elaborates Mathews. “Keeping this in mind, we offer our popular spa-andbreakfast concept for couples at our Divine Spa which addresses their mind and body during weekend stays. The hotel’s ‘Divine Spa Package’ (priced at Rs.12,900) in-

pools and surrounded by the Aravali hills. At the resort, everything from dining to spa to activity is centered around the couple. For example, Ekam, the couples’ spa is available only for a couple and no other guests can use it at that time. Meditation and yoga sessions are similarly arranged just for the individual or a couple. Anand says he is also committed to working in the gay and lesbian segment which is growing globally. “The industry will go through a massive phase of consolidation and will be forced to think of ‘out of the box’ holiday ideas in 2012,” predicts Anand. So spa, so good: The Jaypee Greens Golf & Spa Resort, Greater Noida, that offers an exclusive ‘Six Senses Spa’ from Thailand, has positioned itself as an outlet that is “remarkably accessible, yet feels a world away”. According to Manju Sharma, Director, Jaypee Hotels, Jaypee “redefines luxury destinations in India” with the 170-roomed getaway offering luxury retreats for up to 3,000 guests. The Six Senses Spa at the resort has a series of private lifestyle suites and rooms that offer a combo of wellness, rejuvenation and beauty therapies. “We have amalgamated concepts of healing practices from cultures around the world,” Spa Baoli, The Claridges Surajkund elaborates Suborto Banerjee. “It is a great place for spa connoisseurs, a segment that cludes a one-night stay at the Superior Pool view room, will witness phenomenal growth in the coming years.” breakfast at Cilantro, lunch at Saffron, a one-hour spa A dispiriting downturn: How will the travel trade rectreatment or a 30 minutes spa treatment for two guests. oncile an upward spiral in demand for luxury products ‘Couple-centric’ stays: Another strong emerging with the impending downturn and the falling rupee crisis? trend during 2012 will be ‘couples centric’ resorts that Many feel the rupee crisis will have a positive impact on help partners de-stress and unwind in a relaxing ambi- inbound travel by increasing the disposable income in ence. The one-year-old Tree of Life Resort & Spa, Jaipur, hand for the travelers. “It might make the outbound travprovides couples space and privacy for such a purpose. el for Indians expensive but travelers will continue “Our market segment is very clearly defined,” informs traveling and enjoying corporate and leisure destinations,” owner Himmat Anand. "With just 14 villas in 7 acres of predicts Oliver Martin of The Claridges. land – we are not in the numbers game. Our guests dis“India’s 8-9% economic growth will sustain itself and cover that in and around the Tree of Life there is plenty projected increments in the travel segment will be susto do about nothing!” tained. As we enter our budgeting for 2012 fiscal year we The resort offers a ‘villas only’ resort with some 2,200 are looking at healthy increment in revenues as well as ocft of your own personal space, each with it's own private cupancies,” sums up Martin. by NEETA LAL spa, outdoor shower and many with their own private

GO NOW January 2012

HOTELSCAPES GUEST COLUMN

AYURVEDIC SPA SCORES OVER MODERN SPA THERAPIES Ayurveda encourages man to live in harmony with nature and follow a healthy lifestyle. It offers several long term benefits unlike some of the modern day treatments, says Dr. Pratap Chauhan.

odern age is somewhat conceded in modern terms: A life full of multifarious stress with ‘cutting-edge-alacrity’ to excel professionally, no matter harming the most personal concern of our existence what we call euphemistically ‘Health’. In the’rat-race of standing out successful following the modern parameters of success, we turn oblivious to the most prominent dictum: “The longer we keep our physical body in optimum health, the longer we have our temple to keep our soul on this plane”. And, one more- a prominent Ayurvedic hypothesis justifies: At the expense of health, man earns wealth and later on vice-versa”. Between and betwixt of the silent violation of ‘AyurvedicLifestyle’, our health takes a back seat in general. And having grappled with a host of ailments we seek modern treatment for instant relief paradoxically called ‘Artificial Treatment’.’ For the sake of rejuvenation, a host of techniques are in place. Of an array of rejuvenating therapies, Spa-one of the techniques of rejuvenation has been lately in vogue. Notwithstanding the safest emergence of one of the oldest Ayurvedic Spa techniques, people prefer modern form of Spa which renders more harm than the prevalent instant relief because of its symptom based treatment. Modern Spa such as massage, water treatment and hot stone are prevalent means to relax the body temporarily.

Ayurveda: Cutting-edge Healing Therapy In Ayurvedic regimen, so many magnificent treatments have been developed for renewing body, deeply centering and settling the mind. When the mind is deeply centered and settled, the body will naturally heal faster and age slower. Many of the treatments involve use of therapeutic oils and decoctions that have rare and precious herbs being prepared in specific ‘Samyoga’ or combinations to have a

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profoundly healing effect. In tandem with varied Ayurvedic healing therapies ‘Shirodhara’ – one of the greatest purification and rejuvenation therapies having over 5,000 years old successive healing history breaks down into two ideas: “Shiro,” meaning head, and “dhara,” means flow and together they form a concept that aims to bring physical and emotional balance by rejuvenating the spirit and preserving health. This is achieved through a relaxing technique in which warmed oil is poured over forehead for an extended period of time. And this has been proven by clinical statistics that, this sort of therapy is widely acclaimed one with positive outcomes gathering mesmeric healing momentum. The reason behind its long-term success is the Ayurvedic constitution of its composition and application because Ayurveda says: “Don’t put anything on the skin which you don’t eat because skin also eats implicitly as our mouth gulps virtually”. Ayurveda is very closely related to Indian spirituality and takes into account all possible factors which influence human health from genetic to environmental. Ayurveda is concerned about both materialism and agility; it makes Ayurveda a Holistic Medicine and in my words it is “Wholistic” (Covering all the spheres of life) more than the Holistic!! By adopting a particular lifestyle, life becomes punctual. Punctual life Sommatheeram is the most important factor for all of us. As you can’t run a machine over a limit of hours, but you run your own machine without any hindrance and without resting for a minute even. You feel that it is your capability to work for long hours. This is your negligence towards your health and your own body. Stop ignoring smaller issues about your health! Be your own physician by following natural lifestyle- the mother of all remedies. The author is Director, JIVA Ayurveda

Ayurveda says: Don’t put anything on the skin which you don’t eat because skin also eats implicitly as our mouth gulps virtually.

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January 2012 GO NOW

Pullman Paris Montparnasse – France

Brand Pullman

DESIGNED FOR THE TECH-SAVVY Accor’s upscale brand – Pullman – will soon make a debut in India. Just before the first hotel opens its doors in Gurgaon, we analyze the brand for you. Read on to find all about brand Pullman. 96

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HOTELSCAPES BRAND ANALYSIS heck-in. Chill out.” That’s what the global campaign markets about Pullman Hotels. The hotels offer open spaces, warm staff and cutting edge technology. And it’s mostly the last feature that the group highlights as its key differentiator among other things. With an eye on tech-savvy business travellers, Pullman hotels boast superior meeting facilities, adept connectivity and sophisticated dining, “What distinguishes Pullman from other Accor brands is its focus on MICE (meetings, incentives, conferences and events) business. Therefore, Pullman properties will have pretty large conferencing facilities. Our upcoming hotel in Gurgaon will have 285 rooms with about 20,000 square feet of conference space spread over three levels,” says Scott Davies, GM Delegate – Delhi & NCR Hotel Operations, Accor.

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SCOTT DAVIES GM Delegate – Delhi & NCR Hotel Operations, Accor

“The norm in the industry is to treat IT as a backend issue. At Pullman, however, it is not so. If you’re coming for a meeting, someone from the IT team will be a part of the meeting to ensure smooth operations,” equips Davies.

Pullman Means ‘Pullman’ is associated with long voyages, open spaces and plush comfort. The name derives from the opulent Pullman railway luxury carriages that changed the face of overnight railway travel in America and UK and Europe from the 1860s. Pullman, Accor’s upscale brand, aims to offer an environment that creates a balance between convivial hospitality, tranquility and connectivity for business travellers.’ Located in the heart of top cities and usually close to major airports, Pullman hotels provide innovative service standards and excellent meeting facilities that distinguish them from other brands in the market.

Every Pullman is Different Unlike Accor’s Novotel, Pullman is a nonstandardized brand. This means Pullman Gurgaon will be different in its approach than Pullman in say Beijing. While the philosophy of the brand remains the same, every hotel has its unique identity. There is an element of localization in all hotels. For instance, the Gurgaon property uses local design elements. “We got Indian design firm, Fab Interiors, to do the décor. This ensures a good blend of the local with the overall philosophy of the brand,” says Davies. An interesting feature in the Gurgaon property that would exemplify localization would be digital moving art. The hotel is putting on display works of local artists, on

LCD screens embedded in the walls. Davies describes it as a ‘feminine’ brand. “It has a lot of soft elements, unique design features unlike a lot of US hotel brands that have,” he says. “A non-standardized brand will be something new for the Indian market. It is different and has a fresh approach,” says Davies. What to do in the hotel? While there’s usual pool, gym, café et al, Pullman aims to offer a different experience. So, you have a wellness spa, a beauty parlour, a gymnasium and an outdoor pool and additionally you have the opportunity of working out in your room. In the Gurgaon hotel, you can switch on the video of a professional yoga trainer and follow it on the mat kept in the cupboard; there are dumbbells in Executive rooms. Alternatively, you can also sit in the ‘connectivity lounge’, a quiet space where you can work in privacy.

services like relaxing and entertaining breaks, or presentations by leading experts in a variety of fields. “The norm in the industry is to treat IT as a backend issue. At Pullman, however, it is not so. If you’re coming for a meeting, someone from the IT team will be a part of the meeting to ensure smooth operations,” equips Davies. The technology offering is impressive. Walk in to a Pullman hotel and you can enjoy high speed wi-fi in banquet halls, guest rooms and meeting areas. All rooms too support wi-fi and an office corner with a docking system allowing everything from laptops and digital cameras to USB keys and smart phones to be charged. There are automated kiosks to help speed check-in or check-out. In hotels near airports, there are additional kiosks where clients can print out their boarding pass.

Getting Closer to the Guests USP: High on Technology Pullman is essentially a business hotel brand. With a strong focus on MICE (meetings, incentives, conferences and events), the brand has the concept of ‘Co-Meetings’. The hotels offer start-to-finish support from a dedicated team – led by an Event Manager and IT Solutions Manager – and includes

When you enter a Pullman hotel, you are greeted by a ‘Welcomer’ who ensures your comfort. The staff is ‘multi-skilled’ where the person who welcomes you at the door can also check you in or be a cashier the next day. “At Pullman, we believe in convivial hospitality. We want all our staff to have same level of understanding. The team is January 2012 GO NOW

HOTELSCAPES BRAND ANALYSIS/NEWS

Yet Another Lifetime Achievement Award for Leela’s Capt. Nair

Brand Positioning The Pullman brand is a result of increasing segmentation in the hotel market. Accor moved its top brand Sofitel into the luxury segment, making room for an upscale brand whose main target guests will be business travellers. It competes with brands like Grand Plaza, Sheraton, Hilton in India.

In a Nutshell Pullman hotels provide specific services and facilities to create an atmosphere that balances conviviality, calm and connectivity. These include a 24-hour IT solutions manager on site, ‘Pullman Welcomers’ who are not only responsible for welcoming, but also for immediate actioning of guest requests. Hotels offer full wireless and broadband communications, chill out zones, executive floors and lounges, health club facilities and the latest in hi-tech facilities for meetings and function organisers.

apt. C. P. Krishnan Nair, Chairman and founder of The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts has been conferred Hotelier India’s Lifetime Achievement Award for creating landmarks of world-class luxury around the country against the beaten track, and in one the shortest period of time in the history of Indian hospitality. The award was presented by Greg Wilson, Director of ITP Publishing, at a glittering ceremony, before industry stalwarts and prominent personalities including Ms. Priya Paul, President of the Park Hotels and Mr. Vikram Oberoi, Joint Managing Director of the Oberoi Group. Speaking on the occasion, Capt. Nair, who will be turning ninety years in a few months, said, “The Leela team is the pillar of my achievements. I am proud of my family. With great humility, I accept this award on their behalf. This award has been earned by the entire Leela family which consists of thousands of employees who work with total dedication and share our commitment to provide only the best to our guests.” Born in 1922 in Kerala, Nair served in the Indian Army's Maratha Light Infantry until 1951, when he married Leela, the daughter of a successful handloom owner, who remains, even today, his inspiration. He began to play a pivotal role in pioneering the export of the “Bleeding Madras” fabric to the USA and later set up Leela Scottish Lace Pvt. Ltd., modern India’s largest garment export house. It was in 1987, at age 65, when Nair set up the first Leela hotel, The Leela Mumbai, and signed a marketing alliance with Kempinski. Since

then, he has successfully built his empire of luxury hotels across key leisure and business destinations in India. Even today, his indomitable spirit and enthusiasm see him working on elaborate plans for the future. For both, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts, and for India. The Hotelier India Awards are aimed to celebrate excellence and the human effort that goes into making properties worldclass. In addition to conferring the lifetime achievement award, a ten-member jury also evaluated the merits of almost 350 nominees to decide winners across a wide range of hotel operations – from chefs to general managers and human resources to laundry managers. “Our editorial board took a unanimous decision to award Capt. Nair with the Lifetime Achievement Award because he is an inspiration for the industry. He has the heart to bring world-class standards to hospitality industry, together with discipline which makes him a role model for industry professionals,” said S. Saikumar, Deputy Managing Director, ITP Publishing India. The award comes at an exciting time for The Leela group. As India sees international names in luxury crop up on its shores, Nair's palaces are reminders of unabashed opulence turning around the markets that they exist in. In less than 25 years, the group has rapidly expanded to seven market leading hotels in key business and leisure destinations, including Mumbai, Bangalore, New Delhi, Gurgaon, Goa, Kovalam and Udaipur. The group is poised to inaugurate its eighth hotel in Chennai in early 2012.

committed to enhance guests’ stay at the hotel,” says Davies. “We are focusing on getting right people at Pullman. For the Gurgaon hotel, we are picking up people from different hotel colleges and this constitutes almost 1/3 rd of the total recruitment. We will train them and have a young, fresh and a passionate team. Energy as a team will be key differentiator in this market,” he adds.

Number Crunching The Pullman Hotels and Resorts brand was launched in Asia in January 2008. It is one of the fastest growing brands in Asia Pacific. Globally, there are 58 hotels in operation and another 90 hotels in various stages of development. In time, the brand anticipates a network of over 150 establishments around the world. “We are focusing on major cities like Gurgaon, Delhi, Bangalore, Lavassa. We don’t aim at just adding the numbers. We want to build iconic Pullman hotels in every major city,” says Davies. By 2015, the network is expected to expand to a total of up to 100 hotels, with a significant presence across the region, including China, India, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, Australia and New Zealand. by PURVA BHATIA

GO NOW January 2012

HOTELSCAPES FOOD & WINE

ou are traveling for work and have a busy schedule; you hardly have any time for breakfast. Groggyeyed you come down at the restaurant at Le Meridien, aiming to just grab a quick bite. And then you take a sip of a humble little glass served to you. The effect explains the name given to it - 'Eye Opener'. One shot and you are all set to face the day! In unconventional combinations such as Cherry Lemon Black Pepper, Mango Chili Lime, and Raspberry Pineapple Clove, these are elixirs, served complimentary during breakfast at the entrance of the restaurant, "to cleanse and wake up the guest's palette" The elixirs are just the starting point of the special Signature Breakfast served at Le Meridien hotels. Crafted by Michelin three-star

‘Recipe’ Reinvention at Le Meridien Breakfast at hotels can get boring. In a bid to change that view, Le Meridien decided to add some twist to the most important meal of the day. Thus, came about its Signature Breakfast menu, which the chain claims, is a reinterpretation of traditional breakfast favourites. We get you the taste of this innovation… Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the signature menu offers new interpretations of classic breakfast entrees such as Croque Madame, Smoked Salmon Silken Tofu Crunchy Bagel, and Espresso Steamed Eggs and Toasted Brioche, among others.

International Cuisine Three out of the six dishes served are vegetarian – Spinach and Herb Buckwheat Crepe, Spiced Oatmeal Souffle and Warm Goat Cheese Custard. The crepe is a blend of gruyere cheese, spinach and fresh herbs which makes for a wholesome and healthy option. The custard is topped with cold goat cheese foam and black olive and dill puree and grilled sourdough. Non-vegetarians have more options like – Smoked Salmon and Silken Tofu: Driving inspiration from New York City classic bagel and lox, this dish comes with silken tofu instead of cream cheese to make it healthier; Espresso Steamed Eggs are eggs steamed with high-pressure espresso steamer

to make it light and fluffy; Croque Madame Reinvented – crunchy toast filled with softly fried eggs and slices of bacon. Out of these I tasted the tofu dish and Croque Madame Reinvented. While I like the innovation done with the dish but Smoked Salmon did not seem too impressive. The latter, on the other hand, was a delicious surprise. The ‘softly-fried’ eggs and the cheese create an interesting taste.

A Dose of Caffeine While the little shots are enough to wake your senses early in the morning but break-

factfile Location: Available in all Le Meridien Hotels Prices: JG Eye Openers for Rs 350 + taxes. Signature dishes range from Rs 525-895 + taxes. Coffee: Rs 325 + taxes

fast without coffee sounds incomplete. The menu surprises you again here with a host lot of options. Le Méridien has global partnership with illycaffé that creates a unique coffee culture. I am told illycaffé, Europe’s authentic, quality, and creative premium coffee brand, led by Andrea Illy, grandson of the founder of illycaffé, supports the development of Le Méridien’s unique coffee culture. You can choose from Café Mochachino, Cappuchino, Café Latte, Espresso, Marocchino, Cappuchino Vienesse and Frappe Al Caffe. by PURVA BHATIA

January 2012 GO NOW

HOTELSCAPES RESTAURANTS

The Great Kabab Factory

A CULINARY STORY WITH A DIFFERENCE In business for over a decade, The Great Kabab Factory has a huge fan following among the kabab lovers. Go Now digs in to find out the recipe for success of this F&B brand.

ou don’t have to head to Lucknow or Hyderabad to savour the best of’kababs. There are several restau rant brands that offer delicious varieties. There’s one that literally qualifies as a factory, owning a recipe bank of over 450 kinds of lip-smacking kababs –The Great Kabab Factory. Call it an up-market factory, where you are served six varieties of kababs with a variety of Indian breads by waiters dressed in factory uniform. You can order unlimited helpings of anything on the menu, which changes every day. Look out for various food festivals like Jashn-e-Lahore, Awadhi, Seafood, Herbs ‘n’ Spices and more organized at the restaurant.

How It All Began The first Great Kabab Factory outlet was set up in 1998 at Radisson Hotel, New Delhi. It wasn’t long before it garnered a fan club. At that time, fine dining restaurants served just three or four Kababs’ ‘a la carte’ or at the Buffet. The Great Kabab Factory brought in a new approach with roaming buffet where service was delivered to your table. The concept was well received and the restaurant’s success led the group to follow the franchis-

History of Kababs Way back in the 14th century, the Mongols invaded Hindukush – the land of milk, honey and other rich treasures. In return, they left behind a trail of destruction as well as the Kabab. The Kabab was then, just meat sprinkled with salt, barbequed and gobbled. Soon it caught the fancy of Indian chefs and they perfected it to a sublime art.

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ing model. Today, the brand is present in across four countries. “This was a full service, Indian, contemporary casual dining restaurant created after several years of research and development. The quintessential Factory with its dining area and exhibition kitchen soon became one of the most popular restaurants in India,” says Ashna Kapur, Director Brand Develop-

ment, UMAK Hospitality Pvt. Ltd that franchises and markets the brand.

‘Factory-like’ Ambience Low lighting, dark colors, cooking utensils hooked on the walls, an open kitchens – the ambience of the restaurant has been designed to give it a factory feel. The colour scheme includes blue, orange and burnt brick; some

ASHNA KAPUR Director Brand Development, UMAK Hospitality Pvt. Ltd.

Our chefs have mastered this through extended travel to remote areas and have created our signature kababs after a decade of extensive research and development.

factfile TGKF in India: Delhi, Noida & Gurgon, Jalandhar, Chennai, Pune, Hyderabad, Mumbai, Bhubaneshwar, Varanasi, Indore and Bangalore Cost: Choose food package for Rs 599 ++ or Rs 899 ++

information on the dishes served and also suggest how they must be paired with breads and chutney. For your sweet tooth, there’s Kheer-malai, Kalajaam, Gajar ka halwa, paan flavoured ice-cream and Malai kulfi. walls have been given an unfinished brickwork’ style of look, which goes well with the polished wood and dim lighting. “When dining at TGKF a guest would get the feel of dining within a virtual food factory. The cutlery resembling factory tools and the metal serving dishes are all factories like. The staff wears dungarees to highlight the fact that they are all like factory workers. An open kitchen allows guests to enjoy the feel of eating within a factory premises,” equips Kapur.

Kabab: The King Dinner at TGKF consists of different varieties of mouth-watering kababs, followed by two kinds of dal, biryani and five different types of desserts. “The kababs are prepared in seven different styles, roasted on the tandoor or on a singhri, shallow-fried in a tawa or a mahi tawa, deep-fried in a kadhai, steamed in pots or even grilled on a stone. Making them the succulent and delicious,” says Kapur. The most popular is the Galauti kabab, made with 123 spices and ingredients and served with Ulte Tawe Ka Paratha. Other popular dishes are Raan-E-Murg, a chicken drumstick marinated in spices and Seekh Kabab. Vegetarians must try Tandoori Broccoli and Subz Galouti The waiters constantly provide you with

Success Mantra To ensure quality and original taste, all the chefs, before recruitment, undergo training programs by a team of experienced master chefs. “Our chefs have mastered this through extended travel to remote areas and have created our signature kababs after a decade of extensive research and development. Many have tried creating imitations but none match the unique flavor and aromas of the original TGKF signature kababs,” says Kapur. However, the success story lies in the recipe. TGKF owns a recipe bank of over 450 kababs which include many closely guarded family recipes passed down through the ages. All the outlets worldwide use TGKF proprietary spice packs that ensure the same taste everywhere.

Expansion Plans The Great Kabab Factory is present in 18 locations. It will soon open in locations including Ahmedabad, Coimbatore, Jaipur, Kolkata and Chandigarh. The group plans to expand in hotels, malls, stand alone high street locations and commercial buildings. Overseas, the brand has presence in 4 countries and it plans to target the European and South-East Asian markets for development of new stores. by PURVA BHATIA

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HOTELSCAPES NEW DEVELOPMENTS

French Luxury Hotel Sofitel Forays into India

urope’s leading hotel group Accor opens the doors to its first Sofitel Lux ury Hotel in Mumbai on 26th December 2011. The property has 302 guest rooms that include 49 superior rooms, 182 luxury rooms, 40 club Millesime rooms, eight junior suites, 22 prestige suites and one lavish imperial suite. The hotel will offer six distinctive restaurants and bars, with a vision to create a destination for connoisseurs in search of exciting dining experiences. The Pondichéry Café - all-day dining, evokes an Indo-French blend of tastes and textures providing an authentic market feel, interactive boutique dining, serving buffet and à-la-carte selections; Artisan – Épicerie, Pâtisserie, Chocolaterie; Le Bar Diamantaire – Lobby Lounge, an homage to the “Diamantaires” of India. “We are planning to strengthen our brand in the Asia Pacific region over the next five years. strengthening the brand and offering a unique luxury product to the market,” said T. Markland Blaiklock, Senior Vice President,

Sofitel Asia Pacific, Sofitel Luxury Hotels Accor will also be introducing one more Sofitel hotel in Mulund along with another brand ‘So Sofitel’ (pegged lower than Sofitel) in the same location. In all, the company is planning to have seven hotels in India by 2015 with around 2,000 rooms and the main focus will be on cities like Delhi, Bangalore and Chennai. However, Sofitel will also consider opportunities in other cities. The French Luxury hotel is currently operating from 120 locations across 40 countries, of which about 30-40% of the properties are

Hampton Hotels Opens its First Hotel in Asia Pacific

ampton Hotels, part of the Hilton Worldwide portfolio of brands, has opened its first ‘Hampton by Hilton’ hotel in Asia Pacific in Vadodara-Alkapuri. Located in the heart of the business and shopping districts of Vadodara, the hotel is a 15-minute

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drive away from Vadodara Airport (BDQ) and in proximity to large companies, the Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad University (MSU), Baroda Museum and Gallery and the magnificent Makaroura and Laxmi Vilas palaces. The hotel features the brand’s other char-

owned by the company. Over the past three years Sofitel Luxury Hotels has successfully repositioned itself globally into the luxury hospitality segment. The group has rationalized the number of Sofitel branded properties; going from 206 to 130, setting new luxury benchmarks and creating a new brand mandate for the quality of service, design, gastronomy and culture. About 20 new Sofitel Luxury Hotels have opened in the last 18 months, in locations from the UAE to China, Bahrain to Turkmenistan, Morocco to Bangkok, Columbia to Cambodia, Mauritius to Egypt.

acteristic offerings that include complimentary breakfast, free high-speed internet access and the benefits of Hilton HHonors, the only guest rewards programme that allows members to earn both points and miles for the same stay and redeem points for free nights with no blackout dates at more than 3,800 Hilton Worldwide hotels globally. It has 72 guestrooms, which include rooms with a queen bed or twin beds designed for convenience and comfort. The property is operated under a franchise agreement with Baywood Hotels India Pvt. Ltd. Hampton Hotels are mid-priced hotels, offering warm surroundings and a friendly service culture, and are supported by the ‘100% Hampton Guarantee’ that promises – ‘If you’re not satisfied, we don’t expect you to pay. That’s our commitment to you and your guarantee’. With the launch of Hampton by Hilton Vadodara-Alkapuri, Hilton Worldwide now manages eight hotels under four brands in the country. They have opened six hotels in India this year, and plan to launch four more hotels over the next seven months. compiled by PURVA BHATIA

January 2012 GO NOW

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HOTELSCAPES NEW DEVELOPMENTS

Coming Soon: Starwood’s W and St Regis Hotels

ome 2015 and US-based hospitality gi ant Starwood Hotels and Resorts would have introduced its ultra luxury brands – St Regis and W – to the Indian market. The group is aggressively expanding presence in Asia region with an eye on India and plans to enter new markets such as Sri Lanka and Bhutan. St Regis is Starwood’s top-most brand; it maintains exclusivity with only 27 properties around the globe. Its launch in India reflects the confidence, hotel chains have, in the country’s luxury market.’The first St Regis property, with 200 rooms, will be in Noida. Starwood also has plans for two more hotels in the country – one in Mumbai and another in Goa. The tariff in its first India property has not been announced yet. Brand W will also mark its debut in Mumbai, Goa and Delhi NCR by 2015. Since the opening of the first W hotel in New York City in 1998, Starwood has transformed the design-led, luxury brand from a New York-centric concept to a worldwide phenomenon with hotels in high-profile cities such as London, Mexico City, Washington, D.C. and Bangkok. W Hotels are known for their vibrant and iconic designs. Each hotel and resort is said to be uniquely inspired by its destination.

India: ‘The Place to be’ Including the hotels in the pipeline and management contracts signed, Starwood has now crossed the 50 hotel mark and is well on its way to have 100 hotels under operation, development and contracts signed by 2015. “Already our fourth largest market, India is comfortably poised to be the third, second only to China in terms of our future global growth. As domestic travel increases and In104

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dian travelers continue to demand more sophistication in terms of both quality and experience; we have significant opportunity to grow our brands across the spectrum – whether that’s debuting our ultra luxury St.

Regis brand or expanding our mid market footprint in underserved markets with Aloft and Four Points by Sheraton,” said Dilip Puri Managing Director India and Regional Vice President South Asia. With the opening of five hotels in 2011 – including Four Points by Sheraton Pune Nagar Road, Four Points by Sheraton Vishakapatnam, Sheraton Bangalore Hotel at Brigade Gateway, Aloft Coimbatore Singanallur and Le Meridien Coimbatore, Starwood currently has 33 hotels in operation. With 1 more opening planned for later this year (Aloft Chandigarh Zirakpur), Starwood’s portfolio will go to 34 hotels in operation. “Gen Y will be the biggest consumer group in history, with a new and distinct take on design, technology, service and sustainability. With brands like W, Aloft and Element created for and by Gen Yers, we believe Starwood is ahead of the curve. Inno-

Choice Hotels Steps in at Faridabad

aridabad gets a mid-level hotel with the launch of Comfort Inn Saffron Kiran by Choice Hotels India in collaboration with the Saffron Group. The hotel, with 50 rooms, is situated on the busy Mathura Road that links Faridabad and its industrial areas to Delhi. Vilas Pawar CEO, Choice Hotels India, said at the inauguration that the hotel will offer international experience with world class services. Choice Hotels International is one of the largest lodging franchisors in the world with over 6,000 hotels across the globe. It currently has 25 properties over 19 destinations in India. Though a small hotel, it boasts of as many as four F&B outlets and strong banqueting facilities. Though the first hotel for the Saffron Group, which has mainly been into real estate and construction business, this venture shows the path the group plans to take up in the hospitality sector. Sunil Sharma, Chairman, Saffron India Hotels & Resorts said: “Coming into the hospitality sector was the natural corollary for us and we value our association with Choice Hotels India.” The group plans to open up at least ten

hotels across the country, all in the same range, in destinations like Goa, Gurgaon, Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh. Highlighting the group’s plans, Sharma said: “We are looking only at 30-50 room properties where we can charge between Rs 2,000 and 3,500 per night. We want to cater to those people who want an ambience that is better than his home but affordable than a 5-star hotel.” Comfort Inn Saffron Kiran focusses on facilities needed by business people. It is located on the main road that links Faridabad to Delhi, is close to the Badarpur metro station and hopes to get another metro station right in front as Delhi’s satellite city gets better connectivity. It also has a headstart over other hospitality chains as at least four more hotels are expected to come up in the vicinity.

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