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Hanoi
VIETNAM
Hat Yai
Ho Chi Minh City
THAILAND
VIETNAM
Laughing Buddha
HANOI: CONNLA STOKES, HAT YAI: ALEXANDRA WONG, HO CHI MINH CITY: HENNO KOTZÉ, HONG KONG: EDWARD ANTHONY PETERS
SHOP TALK A number of streets around Dong Xuan Market in the Old Quarter morph into a night bazaar after 6pm on weekends. You can find a wide variety of goods here along with food stalls. CHEAP EATS The alluring aroma of bun cha (marinated charcoal-grilled pork patties and slivers of lean bacon served with rice noodles) wafting through the streets at lunchtime is said to raise sick men from their beds. The family-run joints at 20 Ta Hien and 36 Le Van Huu are worth hunting down. TOP TABLES Pots ’n’ Pans serves up Vietnamese dishes prepared using innovative techniques and a savvy awareness of the finer points of culinary presentation. 57 Bui Thi Xuan, tel: +84 (0)4 3944 0204 LATE & LIVELY CAMA ATK is a hip cocktail bar-cum-music venue with a basement. Expect old-fashioned concoctions and the coolest tunes in town. Open Wed to Sat, 7pm-midnight. 73 Mai Hac De, www.cama-atk.com OVERNIGHT The centrally located Maison d’Hanoi Hanova Hotel is the pick of boutique inns downtown. 35-37 Hang Trong, tel: +84 (0)4 3938 0999, www.hanovahotel.com
CHINA
Market seller
Colourfully dressed dancers
INSIDER TIP If the heat, noise and traffic have overwhelmed you by the end of the day, slip away to the chilledout garden setting of Chez Thuy – a French-owned bar and grill – for a game of pétanque and an apéritif or two. 41 Ngo 76, An Duong, tel: +84 (0)9 1508 5305
Hong Kong
Cable car
INSIDER TIP Aside from the town's ubiquitous auto rickshaws or tuk-tuks (so-called because of the engine’s chugging sound), motorbike taxis are a popular form of public transport. SHOP TALK Waterways have always been the main transport link for people in Thailand, so Klong Hae Floating Market is not only a great place to buy souvenirs and try local delicacies, it's a microcosm of local life. www. klonghaecity.org CHEAP EATS Songkhla Old Town sells Thai desserts. Try khanom bork, a rice-flour cake steamed in bamboo and covered in coconut and sugar. Lek, Thanon Nang Ngam, tel: +66 (0)8 9659 8723
TOP TABLES Fuji Restaurant holds its own against stiff competition from newly opened Japanese outlets in Hat Yai thanks to its oceanfresh sushi, fast service and operating theatre-grade hygiene. Lee Gardens Plaza, Thanon Sanehanusorn LATE & LIVELY Kiss Wandang is exactly what the weekend ordered: good food and great live music. It also hosts concerts. 26, Soi 9, Thanon Rajuthit, tel: +66 (0)7 425 9824, www.kisschannelpub.com/en OVERNIGHT Being that the majority of mid-range hotels opt for generic themes, JB Hotel stands out on the strength of its local design and traditional architecture. 99 Thanon Jootee Anusorn, tel: +66 (0)7 423 4301, www. jbhotelhatyai.com
INSIDER TIP While Saigonese are predominantly Buddhist, there is an ethnic minority that follows Hinduism. The Sri Thendayyutthapani Temple serves as a place of worship for the city’s Tamil and Champa people. 66 Ton That Thiep, District 1 SHOP TALK Quirky and quaint, the new Magonn boutique is an offshoot of its older Hanoian sister, offering '60s-style cuts and accessories. 41 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3522 0649
CHEAP EATS Adored for its pho (beef noodle soup) by locals and visitors alike, Pho Quynh draws full houses at all hours of the day. 323 Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, tel: +84 (0)9 0305 9066 TOP TABLES Be treated like Bedouin royalty at Warda, arguably Saigon’s prime North African/ Middle Eastern inspired eatery. Order a scrumptious lamb dish in the Arabesque-designed dining room. 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3823 3822 LATE & LIVELY Look past the awkward moniker and just enjoy the fusion of Japanese and South American styles at Blanchy’s Tash. 95 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, tel: +84 (0)9 0902 8293 OVERNIGHT The Rex Hotel is steeped in history. Relax on the rooftop terrace overlooking Le Loi Ave. 141 Nguyen Hue, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3829 2185, www. rexhotelvietnam.com
INSIDER TIP To put it simply, you may never get lost again. Thanks to the i-Métro website, travelling from A to B is easy – with step-by-step directions guiding you to your destination. Gotta love the “I don’t like to walk” feature. http:// imetro.nanika.net/metro SHOP TALK Looking for unusual snacks and tasty treats from around the world at bargain-basement prices? Your quest is over at any of PrizeMart’s 18 branches. Sharpen your elbows before entering. tel: +852 2406 8879, www.prizemart.hk CHEAP EATS Few parts of Hong Kong lack a Café de Coral, whose Chinese name translates as “Big Happy Family”. It’s fast food, for sure, but it's by no means lacking in flavour. And at around HK$30 (S$5/A$4) a plate, it’s a great deal. www.cafedecoral.com TOP TABLES It’s Michelin starred, without the high prices. Loaf On has been quietly going about its business serving regular Cantonese fare for years. 49 Market St, Sai Kung, tel: +852 2792 9966 LATE & LIVELY There’s a superb speakeasy feel to Feather Boa: no sign outside, décor that’s reminiscent of a funky Parisian drawing room of yesteryear and out-of-thisworld martinis. 38 Staunton St, Soho, tel: +852 2857 2586 OVERNIGHT If you like your hotels small and funky, The Mercer has just 55 rooms. 29 Jervois St, Sheung Wan, tel: +852 2922 9988, www. themercer.com.hk
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