Spring
Volume 3, Issue 1
2012
From the Ground Up A Gardening and Native Plants Quarterly
Colorado State University Extension-Pueblo County 701 Court Street · Suite C · Pueblo, CO 81003 · 719-583-6566 · coopext_pueblo@mail.colostate.edu WICKED WEEDS
TRIBULUS TERRESTRIS, A.K.A. PUNCTUREVINE by Marcia Weaber, Colorado Master Gardener 2005, and Native Plant Master, 2007
Puncturevine, goathead, and tack-burr are common names for Tribulus terrestris, one of the most aggravating weeds in our area. It not only injures humans and pets, it will do major damage to flooring, as well as puncture bicycle tires, with its many burrs with sharp spines. Puncturevine is a prostrate, mat-forming, broadleaf summer annual with an extensive root system. Listed as a ―C-rated‖ noxious weed in many states, puncturevine produces leaves that contain compounds called saponins, which can be toxic to livestock (especially sheep) when eaten in quantity. It is prevalent in areas with hot summers and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In our area puncturevine is found in orchards, crop fields, roadsides, railways, walkways, lawns and other disturbed areas. It is often found in areas with high soil compaction. The cotyledons (seed leaves) are green above and grayish underneath. The first and later leaves resemble those of the mature plant. The thick, oblong cotyledons are brittle, have a slightly indented tip, and are creased Photo by Eric Coombs, Oregon Department along the prominent midvein. They are 1/6 to 3/5 of an inch long. of Agriculture, Bugwood.org The plants are described as growing ―prostrate over open ground, but when shaded or competing with other plants they can grow nearly erect. Stems occasionally grow over 3 feet long, have many branches, are green to reddish brown, and spread radially from the crown. Stems and leaves are covered with hairs. Leaves are finely divided into three to seven pairs of leaflets, and opposite to one another along the stem.‖ Puncturevine germinates in the spring and summer from seeds produced the previous year as soon as the soil temperature and soil moisture are sufficient, often by mid-May in Pueblo. The plants flower within 3 weeks of germination and flowering will continue throughout the summer. The flowers are bright yellow and are produced singly where the stem and leaf stalk meet. They open only on sunny mornings, except in shady areas. As the seedpod matures, it turns gray or tan, gets very hard and breaks apart so that the individual spikes, or burrs, can stick into passing animals and tires. These burrs disperse by adhering to tires, shoes and clothing of people, and the fur, feathers, or feet of animals. Continued on page 2
INDEX Wicked Weeds 1&2 Fabulous Families 2 Tomatoes for Lovers 3 Perennial People 4 Permaculture 5 Digging Deeper 6 Harmonious Hardscapes 7 Canning Classes 8
Gardening Myths 8&9 Summer Bulbs 9 NPM Program 10 Know Youth Natives 11 Chill Units 12 Garden Walks 13 Plant Sale 14 Interesting Insects 15 & 16
Continued from page 1
Seeds are primarily dormant in the first season, but may germinate the next spring. Seeds may remain viable in the soil for up to five years. The primary method of controlling puncturevine in the home landscape and garden is to remove the seedlings and older plants by hand or hoeing, and to remove the burrs that fall off of the plant. Avoid bringing burrs into uninfested areas on shoes and wheels of mowers or carts. Aeration of compacted sites and planting competitive desirable plants can also reduce the impact of puncturevine by making the area more favorable for the growth of the desired plants and reducing resources available to the weed. Because of the viability of the burrs, diligence in removing the weed is an ongoing process. Most farm and home supply and big-box stores carry herbicides that control broad-leaved plants such as puncturevine. Pre-emergent herbicides containing oryzalin, benefin, or trifluralin are partially effective when applied prior to germination. Post-emergent herbicides containing 2,4-D, glyphosate, and dicamba are effective, but homeowners must take extreme care when applying these products. Follow label directions to avoid damage to other vegetation including trees and shrubs. When using any herbicide, be very careful to apply only to the desired weed and always be aware of the possibility of drift. FABULOUS FAMILIES
FAMILY LILIACEAE: THE LILY FAMILY
by Marge Vorndam, Colorado Master Gardener, 1997, and Native Plant Master, 2008
Lilies are monocots with linear leaves in parallel venation, with some genera (plural for genus) netted in shaded habitats. The flowers’ parts are arranged in threes – 3 petals and 3 sepal - (collectively called tepals), 6 stamens and a superior ovary with 3-parted stigma, and actinomorphic (radially symmetrical). Seeds are contained in a 3-celled capsule or berry. Seeds are dispersed by animals or wind. Members of the Liliaceae family are mostly temperate-region herbaceous perennials that regenerate from bulbs or rhizomes. Their underground systems make this family particularly suited for regeneration after forest fires or drought. Family Liliaceae includes a number of genera that include both native and introduced plants, such as fritillaria, trilliums, true lilies, tulips, and many other geographically localized species. As an example genus, Lilium represents a large number of Liliaceae species. True lilies are often hybridized and used ornamentally and for religious purposes. Above: Lilium philadelphicum near Ornamental types include Asiatic, Oriental and Trumpet lilies, which are colored Colorado Springs, photo by L. McMulkin. Below: Leucocrinum white, pink, plum, yellow, orange and red. Traditionally, in European history, montanum, photo by E. Marx, white lilies have represented innocence, purity, beauty, chastity, virtue, and the http://easterncoloradowildflowers.com/ Virgin Mary. Many lily species have been used medicinally for bowel issues, as an antibiotic, treatment for skin diseases, rheumatism and fever. Some Lilium are poisonous, so caution is warranted in their use without knowledge. Native Americans and other indigenous people have used the bulbs and rhizomes for food. On the eastern slope of Colorado, the Wood Lily, Lilium philadelphicum, is native, rare and found in moist meadows and aspen groves. Alp-lily, L. serotina, is an alpine plant. Another Liliaceae in our area is the Sand Lily, Leucocrinum montanum, a white-flowering plant of grasslands in the plains and foothills. While many plants are called ―Lily‖, they no longer are assigned to this family. The Liliaceae Family has been recently split (2003) into many separate families such as Asparagus and Alliums (onions), which are now designated based on genetic differences. There are likely further changes that will occur, as modern genetic research moves forward. 2
Garden Tip: Vines for Pueblo Wanting to garden in 3 dimensions? Looking for that perfect plant to cover your new trellis or pergola? Annual and perennial vines are available for many uses in the landscape. Fast growing annuals include scarlet runner bean, hyacinth bean, sweet peas, and nasturtium, all easy to grow from seeds. There are several perennial vines that do well in our climate, including Silver lace vine, clematis, climbing roses, trumpet vine, wisteria, Virginia creeper, and an assortment of honeysuckles. For more information on choosing and planting vines, see The Skinny on Vines, at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/gr110709.html.
Tomatoes for Lovers by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009, and Native Plant Master, 2011 This year I had pretty good luck growing tomatoes indoors. This great adventure started last spring. As you might remember, last year from about February through May we seemed to have constant wind. So, when it came time to harden my store bought tomatoes, I started putting them outside. The problem was, every time I put them out, they would get wind whipped and wind-dried. I felt sorry for the fragile dears, so I brought them inside thinking I would wait for the wind to stop blowing. Well, May turned into June and June turned into January. In the space in between May and January I learned a thing or three about growing tomatoes inside. Here are some good tips for growing tomatoes indoors and fodder for further arguments among tomato aficionados: Growing tomatoes in five-gallon buckets with a few vent holes in the sides and bottoms and lined with cheap reusable grocery sacks works very well for container gardening. Put your five-gallon buckets in boot trays to catch the excess water. The boot trays look a little better when filled with stone but it still does not make the five-gallon bucket look any better. Starting seeds in five-gallon buckets rather than in peat pots lends itself to success as there is a greater reservoir of moisture for the seed to draw on, and damping off and transplant issues are mitigated. Just put a piece of plastic loosely over the top to start your seeds. Grow the tomatoes in a south window and give them an additional four or more hours of light from fluorescent tubes. Tomatoes need about eight hours of full sun to produce fruit. When indoors, the intensity is diminished, so I like to give them about a total of 12 hours using natural south sun and fluorescent lights. I used 8-foot salvaged fluorescents and hung three 1x2 inch strips 8 foot long above the plants to support the vines and get an even distribution of light. Determinate tomatoes produce a pre-determined number of tomatoes and then stop producing. This is why some people think their tomatoes stop producing in late July or August; they actually do. Some determinate varieties are bushy and more compact. Indeterminate tomatoes produce for a very long time but tend to be more viney. I like indeterminate tomatoes inside as they keep producing at about the right rate for eating. Many people on the net seem to prefer the determinate. I have tried both with success. Tomato flowers need the wind to pollinate. The male and female reproductive parts are both contained in the same flower. So, for an indoor plant to have wild sex, you must rub the interior of the flower or flick the flower. Just be passionate about it; meaning, check them every day or so. Fuel the passion. Water and fertilize regularly. I am growing 3-4 plants to keep my tomato palate satiated. Share the love, but only with your closest friends and lovers. It is winter, after all; I did not get too many to share. There is simply nothing like a homegrown tomato, eaten on a cold winter day. They are truly a rare treat and worth the effort. For more information on growing tomatoes, both indoors and out, see Colorado Master Gardener GardenNotes # 724, Vegetable Gardening in Containers, http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/724.pdf, and #717, Growing Tomatoes, http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/ardennotes/717.pdf. 3
PERENNIAL PEOPLE
WEBER AND WITTMANN: COLORADO PLANT AUTHORITIES by Judith Rice-Jones, Colorado Master Gardener, 2003, and Native Plant Master, 2009, El Paso County
Those interested in native plants of Colorado are undoubtedly familiar with the Colorado Flora by William Weber and Ron Wittmann. These invaluable keys (botanical keys offer a sequence of identification steps with two alternatives at each step which leads one to the identity of the plant) are supported by exemplars/vouchers for each of the plants in the herbarium at the University of Colorado, Boulder. The authors focus on describing those aspects of a plant which aids in its identification. Colorado Flora exists in two geographic versions, one for the Eastern slope and one for the Western slope. Both are available currently in their third editions. A fourth will soon be published. The good news is that the fourth edition will have a larger font and there will be an electronic as well as a print edition of each. William Weber, Professor Emeritus at the University of Colorado, wrote his first Colorado botanical key for Boulder County. The version for the Front Range was published in 1953. Eventually separate volumes were published for the western and eastern slopes. In addition to the soon to be published 4th editions of both geographic volumes, the authors published a Catalog of the Colorado Flora: a Biodiversity Baseline in 1992 with an expanded version available online at http://cumuseum.colorado.edu/Research/ Botany/Databases/catalog.html. This work attempts to include every possible synonym given to flora in Colorado. The Southeastern Chapter of the Colorado Native Plant Society hosted Ron Wittmann at a meeting in Colorado Springs in December, 2011. Mr. Wittmann spoke on the history, his collaboration with Dr. Weber, and the projected fourth edition. He contrasted their careful documentation (with herbarium vouchers) of each plant listed in Colorado Flora with the ongoing publication of the Flora of North America, a decades-long project which aims to identify the entire flora of North America. Wittmann pointed to the fact that not all of the plants listed in the Flora of North America as being found in Colorado are supported by a collection in some identified site. This work also provides extensive descriptions of each plant, well beyond those characteristics which facilitate identification. Ron Wittmann, by profession a physicist, came to Colorado in the 1970s and began botanizing with Weber. In response to a query about changes he has noted in the landscape since the 1970s, he mentioned that South Park was once filled with Iris missouriensis and Primula incana, now gone due to the changes in hydrology for South Park. The wetlands of South Park, formerly extensive and containing a large array of interesting species, some of which were rare ones like Primula egaliksensis and P. incana, are now tremendously reduced due to the selling of water rights. He also noted invasive species seen in greater numbers: Salvia aethiopsis (Mediterranean sage), Carduus nutans (musk thistle), and a number of knapweeds. He noted two relatively new and highly invasive plants: Centaurea solstitialis (yellow starthistle) and Isatis tinctoria (Dyer’s woad). Sadly, he noted that botany seems to be disappearing from many college curricula and more botanists tend to be molecular biologists interested primarily in plant DNA. Herbaria are closing and many of the curators of herbaria are in their 80s or 90s. William Weber, for example, is 93. All of us need to find ways to interest young people in the flora and fauna of their local communities to insure that we have botanists in the future. Fortunately, both CSU Pueblo and Colorado College still have strong programs in our area. Editor’s note: The fourth edition of Colorado Flora will be available in 2012 from University Press of Colorado, http://www.upcolorado.com/. Exact publication date is not listed. If you need any special accommodation(s) to participate in any Colorado State University Extension event, please contact CSU Extension-Pueblo County at 719-583-6566. Your request must be submitted at least five (5) business days in advance of the event. Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Pueblo County cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination.
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What is Permaculture? by Emily Lockard, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Permaculture is a design system based on ecological principles. In short it is a method based on wisely using the resources we have and to design systems in an ecological manner. The ideas in permaculture can be applied to many aspects of our lives, from designing a small garden or in a larger agricultural setting. Permaculture thinks of systems as a whole, in the sense that everything impacts other components in a system and that design systems are created for multiple purposes. It can be applied to our use of water and rain harvesting (directing rainwater/runoff towards plants with the goal of infiltration) or rainwater catchment (when water is actually caught and stored). Permaculture can incorporate animals and plants. An example could be using poultry or livestock to enhance your soil. Want to learn more from a permaculture designer and instructor? Then come to ―Introduction to Permaculture‖ taught by Becky Elder the co-founder of Pikes Peak Permaculture and owner of Blue Planet Earthscapes, an organic/Permaculture garden and landscaping design company. She will discuss the definition and ethics of permaculture, outline permaculture principles based on nature, and allow plenty of time for questions and answers. The workshop will be held on Wednesday, April 11, 2012, 6:00-8:00 p.m. at the Pueblo County Conference Room, 1001 North Santa Fe Ave. Pueblo, CO 81003. Cost is $10/person, $15/couple. Bring/ mail check or cash to CSU Extension—Pueblo County 701 Court St., Suite C, Pueblo, CO 8100. Write checks to ―Extension Program Fund‖. Call (719) 583-6566 with questions or for more information. Registration deadline is Friday, April 6.
Subscribe to this quarterly horticulture newsletter by contacting Carolyn at 583-6574. Available in paper and electronic formats. 5
Garden Tip: Gardening Information, Specifically for Colorado Visit the CSU Extension website for gardening information written for Colorado by gardeners who live and work in the state. Fact sheets, CMG GardenNotes, and PlantTalk can be accessed at www.ext.colostate.edu. DIGGING DEEPER:
CUTTING EDGE GARDENING IN THE INTERMOUNTAIN WEST by Marcia Tatroe, reviewed by Georgianna Lipich, CMG 2007
When I thought of the ―proper‖ way to garden in our area, a picture of sparse, rocky xeriscaping came to mind; a home to lizards, snakes and other creepy crawlies. That is, until I turned the first few pages of Marcia Tatroe’s book Cutting Edge Gardening in the Intermountain West. This informative and down-right fun publication covers topics from developing a regional aesthetic to the essentials of soil/water/garden maintenance and on to rock and shade gardening. She speaks not only about her successes, but also of her failures in her attempts to develop her relatively small property into a vibrant, enjoyable landscape. Marcia Tatroe answers just about any question we in the Intermountain West might have, drawing not only on her own experiences and expertise, but also on that of other successful gardeners…..AND, she does it with a sense of humor, in terms we all can understand. Striking a cord with me was her statement, ―We got the big box of crayons, so why do we continue to surround our homes with a monochrome of green?‖ I could suddenly visualize blooms of Peachy Peach, Fire Engine Red and Sweet Pea Green in my garden. To paraphrase a thought from the author, you can teach a parrot to sing a Beatles song but he still won’t sound like John Lennon. We don’t need an ―English garden‖. Most of us have finally recognized that what we do need is to adapt our gardening and landscaping attempts to the ever-changing climate of this vast open area…that we need to utilize our amazing native plants, conserve water and preserve wildlife habitats. This book certainly helps to answer the question, ―Where do I begin?‖ Charles Mann’s magnificent garden photographs help to bring Ms. Tatroe’s words to life…..nearly every page offers a pallette of vibrant colors to accompany her instructional and inspiring thoughts. An added bonus is a descriptive chapter dedicated to plants of the Intermountain West, providing amazing and diverse options. After reading this book from beginning to end, I started going back through the pages. I realized I felt like a kid in a candy shop….this book sums up the many gorgeous alternatives to the ―sparse, rocky xeriscaping‖ of my nightmares. And I thought, ―I, too, can do this‖! Cutting Edge Gardening in the Intermountain West is not only a pleasure to read but a great reference tool for gardeners of all abilities. I am definitely looking forward to hearing more from Marcia Tatroe at the Western Landscape Symposium on March 17, 2012. Her topic will be Making Every Drop Count, a discussion on directing runoff to water our landscapes. Garden Tip: Information on pesticides Is the pesticide label too small to read? Is product information from the EPA difficult to understand? Then the National Pesticide Information Center (http://npic.orst.edu/index.html) is the place for you. The website has both technical and non-technical information sheets on the active ingredients in herbicides, insecticides and fungicides commonly used in the garden. Each publication explains how the product works, what to do if you are exposed to the pesticide, how the chemical reacts in the environment, and possible impacts to humans, pets, and wildlife. You can find the list of general information publications at http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/aifact.html. Then click on the topic links at the top of the homepage to find information on many pesticide related topics, with links to fact sheets from universities around the country. 6
HARMONIOUS HARDSCAPES
SPRING POND CARE
by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009
As the weather warms, the pond thaws and fish begin to stir. Spring is a good time to get your pond back up to snuff and make improvements. Pond health really starts with having the basics right. It is possible to have a pond that needs minimal care and can be running for all twelve months of the year. There are three key components to a healthy pond, and getting them right takes effort: Twenty-four or more inches deep to prevent a total freeze and give fish a place to survive the winter; Good filtration; Pond plants that provide shade to prevent algae growth, filter and clean water, offer shelter for fish and fry, and offer food for fish, toads, and turtles. Spring is a good time to improve filtration. Filtration helps the biological breakdown of fish and plant waste. It is the one thing that can make or a break a pond. I have never used a store-bought filter. My system is a 2-stage system where water is filtered twice. I use two, fifty-gallon drums filled with 2-inch stone, one on the intake side of the pump acts as a skimmer/pre-filter and one on the exit side of the pump acts as a biological filter and base for a water fall. These filters rarely, if ever, need cleaning and can literally go years with no maintenance. You might want to consider updating your pump and installing an external pump rather than a submersible pump. Externals cost more up front but pay for themselves through power saved. They also tend to be much more powerful so you get more bang for the electrical bucks you spend. Everyone has their thoughts on prepping a pond for spring and the prep is different for different ponds. If you have no fish, you can drain it, scrub it out, clean fiber filters, and refill it and start it up. My clean-up schedule includes: 1. Clean all the dead plant debris from the top of plants and bottom of pond. 2. Separate and divide water lilies and other plants. 3. Plant additional plants. The top and bottoms of 50-gallon drums work great for pond plants if you have resources to get the drums cut. These give lilies plenty of room to expand. I suggest avoiding the temptation of planting cattails as they can spread very fast and take over a small pond. I like lower growing bog plants, hyacinths, water lilies, iris, and water iris. They have worked well for me. Taller plants tend to get broken in the high winds of Pueblo West. If you have fish, postpone cleanup until summer in order to let the bacteria build back up in your biological filters and allow the fish to start fattening up and regain their strength from their winter dormancy. Again, spring pond care starts with the three basics. If you would like further information on building a pond filter or to talk ponds, you can contact me through the Colorado Master Gardener program. They will happily share my number with you. Garden Tip: Pond life publication available online Owners of backyard ponds are often curious about the insects that inhabit the aquatic ecosystem. A good reference is Life in a Colorado Water Garden: The Insects and Other Invertebrates Associated With Water Features, an online publication from entomologists at Colorado State University. You can find this 34-page, full color guide to insects that feed on plants, and each other, in a water feature at http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/bspm/extension%20and%20outreach/ Water%20Garden%20Insect%20Publication.pdf. 7
Preserving the Harvest– Food Preservation Classes Offered by CSU Extension– Pueblo County Family and Consumer Sciences Water Bath and Pressure Canning Hands-On Workshop Fee: $20.00 Saturday, June 9, 2012 9:00 am-4:00 pm Jams and Jellies Tuesday, June 19, 2012 6:00-8:00 pm
Fee: $5.00
Water Bath Hands-On Workshop Fee: $10.00 Thursday, July 19, 2012 9:00 am-1:00 pm Pressure Canning –Focus on Chilies Hands-On Workshop Fee: $10.00 Thursday, July 26, 2012 1:00-5:00 pm Pressure Canning Monday, July 30, 2012 6:00-8:00 pm
Fee: $5.00
Freezing and Dehydrating Fee: $5.00 Monday, August 6, 2012 6:00-8:00 pm Pickling Fee: $5.00 Tuesday, August 14, 2012 6:00-8:00 pm
Water Bath and Pressure Canning Hands-On Workshop Fee: $20.00 Saturday, August 18, 2012 9:00 am-4:00 pm ALL CLASSES: Location: CSU Extension - Pueblo County, 701 Court Street, Suite C, Pueblo, CO 81003 Fee:
Fee must be paid in advance, payable to Extension Program Fund (check or cash only) PAYMENT ONE WEEK PRIOR TO CLASS IS REQUIRED
Limit: Space is limited to 20 participants Contact: Christine or Lois at 719-583-6566 for more information.
Truth or Myth? Let’s Sort Them Out by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007 So many myths abound in gardening, it’s hard to tell them from the truth. Have you heard these? All gardening products have been tested to prove their claims. Fact: Fertilizer labels must indicate their ingredients, and pesticides are tested for safety before EPA registration. But, some products on store shelves are untested or unproved. For example, Vitamin B1 is sometimes sold as a root stimulator but, on its own, is ineffective for that purpose. To be effective, a root stimulator must contain a rooting hormone and fertilizer. Adding sulfur is a quick and easy way to reduce alkalinity in Colorado soils. Fact: Sulfur must be oxidized by soil bacteria to the sulfate form, then react with water to form sulfuric acid. In our soils, the necessary bacteria are rare, so the reaction may take years. Any sulfate formed reacts with the lime (calcium) prevalent in our soil to form gypsum (calcium sulfate). Sulfur is useful only in soils with low lime levels. The best way to treat a pruning wound is to apply a sealant right away. Fact: Sealants can dry and crack in Colorado's climate. When water gets behind the crack, disease may be promoted rather than prevented. The best way to treat a pruning wound is to leave it alone. Turf grows poorly under pine trees because the accumulation of needles increases the acidity of the soil too much. Fact: Turf grows poorly under pine trees because of shade, competition between trees and turf for water and other nutrients, and the smothering effect of the needles. Any increase in acidity caused by pine needles would take decades and would be beneficial in highly alkaline soils. Continued on page 9 8
Continued from page 8
Organic products are more beneficial and are safer for people, pets and the environment than synthetic products. Fact: Nutrients in synthetic fertilizers are just as beneficial for plants as those in organics. Organic products are chemicals that must be used with care. Some organic pesticides are broad spectrum, endangering desired vegetation. Many organics must be applied in greater quantities, increasing the chance for misapplication, contamination or run-off. Lawns serve no purpose, are a waste of water, and should be banned. Fact: Lawns are aesthetically pleasing, trap heat, control weeds, and reduce runoff and soil erosion. True, as water is scarce, lawns should be reduced in size and watered properly. The use of our native, warm season grasses should be encouraged, rather than banning lawns entirely. Using drought-tolerant plants in the landscape leads to a reduction in water usage. Fact: The correct use of drought-tolerant plants can reduce water usage in the long run. Newly planted xeric plants require adequate irrigation to become established. Once established, drought-tolerant plants can survive on less water but will use large quantities of water if made available, either through precipitation or over-zealous irrigation. In order to reap water-reduction benefits, landscapers must become accustomed to the different look of xeric plants and not expect them to perform like traditional plants. Editor’s note: For more information on turf care myths, see Turf Myths: The Truth Shall Set You Free, by CSU Extension’s Tony Koski and Alison O’Connor, at http://csuturf.colostate.edu/Powerpoints/2011% 20Turf%20Myths.pdf.
Summer Bulbs for Summer Color by Elizabeth Catt, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Now is the time to shop for bulbs that bloom in the summer. Lilies, dahlias, cannas, tuberous begonias, and gladiolus all add a dramatic splash to the summer garden. Most lilies are winter hardy and can be left in the ground all winter to become bigger and better clumps with age. They make gorgeous bouquets and some are fragrant. It is helpful to mulch them with bark or tree trimmings; mulch and feed in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Dahlias also make beautiful cut flowers and come in too many shapes and sizes to list—every color but blue and from a few inches tall as in bedding dahlias to several feet tall that need staking. There are many different flower shapes and sizes as well, from little pom-poms and buttons to big dinner plate ones. Some of the most dramatic dahlias have deep burgundy or bronze foliage that make the flowers just pop. Cannas are very easy to grow and now come in some dwarf varieties that tolerate wind better. If you have a sheltered spot, nothing is more dramatic than the tropical looking foliage of cannas and when they bloom they look like flaming torches in the garden. There are cannas with colorful striped foliage that can really brighten up the garden. For a splash of exquisite color in a shady spot buy a few tuberous begonia bulbs. They are charming in hanging baskets or in pots on a shady patio where you can see their beauty up close. Be sure to plant only to the top rim of the cupped begonia bulbs and use a good potting soil with lots of organic matter in it. Gladiolus can be very inexpensive and well worth the time to dig a spot for them. Any nice sunny area that could use a vertical lift is ideal for them. Typically, gladiolus will bloom about sixty days after planting so staggered plantings will lengthen their blooms in the garden. Summer bulbs can be used in containers for color here and there and all (except lilies) will need to be dug up and stored for the winter. For more information about summer blooming bulbs see CSU Extension Fact Sheet 7.411, Spring Planted Bulbs, Corms and Roots at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07411.pdf. 9
NATIVE PLANT MASTER PROGRAM by Ed Roland, Native Plant Master, 2009 I was always interested in knowing more about the nature around me when I hiked and backpacked, so I took along some of the typical field guides on birds and plants . . . even one on geology. Of course, these added significant weight to a pack that had to be hauled up a mountainside along with the real essentials (like food and water). With the field guides, I always felt I was just "dabbling" in the subject. I can't count the times the plant or animal I was most interested in wasn't in the book. And, because it's a "look it up" process, I never felt I was making any real progress in understanding how these organisms functioned. The Native Plant Master (NPM) Program had been around for a couple of years before I decided to give it a try. I'd met a few people who had gone through the program and was impressed with their organized approach to knowing and understanding native plants. All I can say here is, after that first Saturday morning session, I was convinced this is the way to learn about native plants. What I particularly liked about the NPM Program is that all of the teaching takes place in the field. Nothing is an abstraction because you're looking at the actual plant when it's being taught. It's right there in front of you. NPM instructors always "scope out" the area in advance of each class, so no time is lost trying to locate the right specimen. You also learn about the plant's "ecological niche." Discussing and answering questions like: Is it an important food source for certain birds or other animals? What does it need to survive and thrive -- soils, moisture, sun exposure, etc.? Does it help or hurt other organisms in the same habitat? All-in-all, I found that the three Saturday mornings in each NPM class was time well-spent. I came away with a deeper appreciation of how native plants are essential to their respective habitats: for example, how the native plants we see in our forests, foothills and plains actually determine what animals can live there. So, unlike the field guides, the NPM program is designed to accomplish more than just satisfy our curiosity. Yes, you learn the techniques to identify just about anything that's growing out there. But, it's really more about conserving native plants and the places where they live which, in turn, helps us conserve just about everything else we find in nature.
2012 Native Plant Education Native Plant Master Each course is held on three Saturday mornings, 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Lake Pueblo State Park, June 9, 16, and 23 YMCA Camp Jackson, June 30, July 7 and 14 Tuition is $50 for volunteers, $90 for non-volunteers. Fee includes class materials. Pre-registration required. Course fulfills requirement for teacher recertification with no college credit.
Additional Native Plant Education Opportunities Essential Botany for Plant Identification Workshop Saturday, April 28, 9 a.m.-2 p.m., $15/person Gardening with Native Plants Class Saturday, June 9, 1:30-3:30 p.m., Lake Pueblo State Park, Free Grass Identification Workshop Saturday, July 28, 9 a.m. to about 3 p.m. Aiken Canyon, Colorado Springs, $ TBD Additional information available at CSU Extension-Pueblo County.
Garden Tip: Double-dig soil in raised beds When gardening in raised beds, the potential exists for layers of soil to inhibit infiltration of water. This can lead to shallow roots and poor soil drainage, reducing plant growth and crop yield. When creating a new raised bed, keep in mind that roots of most vegetable crops need about 8 inches of soil to thrive. Even shallow beds can be very productive if the soil is prepared properly. Double-digging is an ideal method of soil preparation in raised beds. Move the top 6 inches of soil from one side of the bed to the other. Mix organic matter into the newly dug soil as it is returned to the excavated side. If the newly mixed soil is different from the soil below, work some of the amended soil into the un-dug soil at the bottom of the bed. Repeat the process on the other side of the bed. The goal of double-digging is to eliminate soil layers within the bed. If you are unable to work the soil at least 6-inches deep, you should increase the height of your raised beds. 10
KNOW YOUR NATIVES
SUDDEN ASPEN DECLINE IN COLORADO by Marvin Reynolds, CSU Extension-Pueblo County
Sudden Aspen Decline (SAD) in Colorado was first recognized in 2004. It is described as widespread, severe, rapid dieback and mortality of aspen trees. Aerial surveys in Colorado show an exponential increase in SAD from 30,000 acres in 2005, to 138,000 acres in 2006, and 338,000 acres in 2007 (USFS). This represented about 13 percent of the aspen trees in Colorado. Currently, about 17 percent of all aspen are impacted by SAD. Based on current knowledge of SAD, this is not the normal succession or natural replacement of one generation of aspen by another. Since roots appear to be affected, SAD is really the mortality of mature aspen without successful regeneration. Other stresses (disease, drought, browsing) contribute to SAD with climate likely involved. Evidence indicates that the extremely warm drought of 2002 was a contributing reason SAD appeared here. Low snowfall winters allowed for the possible thawing and refreezing of snow. The refreezing would damage the roots and increase the losses. South and southwest oriented slopes showed greater losses. After looking at many possible causes the analysis came back to drought and root damage. The damage is more severe at lower elevations. It has resulted in the loss of up to 70 percent of the canopy cover in some stands. The worst impacted areas are those where the early loss of aspen due to climate change was predicted. Areas where the stands were in poor soil, had marginal water, or were susceptible to other impacts were the areas that were more impacted. Even in declining stands complete loss from SAD is rare. In areas where the aspen trees had been managed through firewood cutting or other methods, the younger trees were less impacted. Neighboring declining stands that hadn’t been managed showed greater loss due to SAD. About 1/3 of the trees died in declining stands. Most of the aspen in Colorado remained relatively healthy. The good news is that observations indicate that SAD may have slowed or stopped. Most areas show some sign of aspen regeneration. Pueblo County had very little recognized aspen loss due to Sudden Aspen Decline. In the future, stands of aspen trees may be more open. The canopy cover may be less and the number of trees may be fewer. In areas where the stands are recovering, this is what is being recognized. If there is another severe drought, we may see a recurrence of SAD. Aspen is a Rocky Mountain native species that has many significant uses. It provides an ecosystem that is diverse in its plant and animal partners, some of which are only associated with aspen stands. It helps moderate mountain water flows through the year and holds soils in place. Aspen provide beauty to our landscapes, wood for the manufacture of products, and are a significant tourist attraction. Aspen trees are an integral part of the Rocky Mountain landscape. They provide an opportunity for recovery and regeneration of complementary plants and animals. Understanding what impacts our trees is important in understanding their role in our ecosystems. References: Sudden Aspen Decline in Colorado: Forest Health Protection, Rocky Mountain Region, USDA Forest Service, 2011 Feb. 1, http://www.aspensite.org/pdf/sad_faqs_2011-02-01.pdf. Summary and Abstracts from Sudden Aspen Decline (SAD) Meeting: Fort Collins, Colorado, February 12-13, 2008; Paul C. Rogers, compiler/editor, May 20, 2008, http://www.aspensite.org/research_dieback.htm; Sudden Aspen Decline,(SAD) Summit Report, February 2008. Forest Ecology and Management. Effect and Etiology of Sudden Aspen Decline in Southwestern Colorado, May 13, 2010, http://ddr.nal.usda.gov/dspace/bitstream/10113/45982/1/IND44406081.pdf 11
Garden Tip: Extending the growing season Early season temperatures can fluctuate rapidly and tender garden plants may need protection on cold nights. The goal of any cover is to trap heat from the soil, store after a sunny day, and reduce the temperature drop near the plant. The best cover is low to the ground, spreading, and does not touch the plant. Gardeners can use floating row covers, hoop houses, cold frames, Wall of Water®, or cloches. Raid your recycle bin for plastic milk jugs and soda bottles to make cloches. Clean the containers well, then use a box cutter to remove the tops; cut the milk jugs just under the handle and the soda bottles so the sides are about 6 inches tall. Place cloches over tender plants before the temperature drops, making sure that the leaves don’t touch the plastic. Remove in the morning to keep the plants from overheating. When not in use, string the cloches together and hang from the ceiling in the garage or shed.
Consider Chill Units When Choosing Fruit Trees by Tony Koski, CSU Extension Specialist, Fort Collins
There are a number of plants that have a winter chilling requirement in order to flower and produce fruit the following spring. Classic examples include apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums, blueberries, to name a few. Chilling hours/units (CU) are of greatest interest when selecting fruit trees to plant in a certain area. It’s important to match CU requirements with the local climate. Chilling units are measured as a certain number of chilling hours, or chilling units, as calculated by some models. The classic ―model‖ is that any hour of temperatures between 32 and 45 is equivalent to one chilling hour. In addition, CU calculations adjust for temperatures above 60 and below 32, often subtracting chilling hours for very cold or warm temperatures that occur during the late winter/spring. I should add here that chill hours (an hour of temperature between 32 and 45 F) and chill units (calculated using models) are not technically the same, though they might be close, depending on the model used to calculate CUs. As fruit trees move towards dormancy in the fall, an important part of the process (called acclimation) is triggered by shorter day length, dropping temperatures, and light frosts during fall and early winter. A number of physiological processes take place, allowing the cells in winter-hardy plants to survive without damage even when exposed to very low temperatures. During the spring, the process reverses itself (deacclimation). It is believed that this occurs when temperatures are between 32 and 45 F and that temperatures in this range are required for deacclimation. After a certain number of chilling units/hours is reached, the buds are released from dormancy, though growth may not occur until sustained warm temperatures are experienced. If a plant with a high CU requirement does not accumulate enough CUs, the buds may not develop leaves normally, flowering and fruit production does not proceed normally (or often not at all), and fruit quality is reduced. A plant requiring only a few CUs may begin growth too early in the spring, making it susceptible to spring frosts (for example, fruit trees developed for the southern US, but planted in the north). Editor’s note: You can find a list of recommended fruit tree varieties for Colorado at http:// www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/ColdClimateFruitTrees.pdf. Many of the varieties were developed for the upper Midwest and perform well in western Colorado. Average winter temperature and length of growing season in Grand Junction are similar to conditions in Pueblo. 12
GARDEN WALKS
COLORADO STATE FAIR DEMONSTRATION GARDEN by Kate McCracken, CMG, 2006, and Linda McMulkin, CSU Extension
The State Fair Demonstration Garden was created in 2005 to beautify the Governor’s Gate entrance to the Colorado State Fair. Four large raised beds were built and some plants installed. At that point, Chris Wiseman and the fairgrounds staff asked CSU Extension to assist in planting and maintaining the gardens, the main goal being to create a stunning view from the Acero entrance during the State Fair. The gardens are viewed by an estimated 90,000 visitors passing through the Governor’s Gate during the Colorado State Fair each year. With the cooperation of youth and staff from 4-H, Pueblo Youth Naturally, Colorado Master Gardeners, local growers, and a grant from the Colorado Home and Gardens Show, the gardens have been changed, modified and improved to the point you now see them. We have: removed the old bark mulch and replaced it with more xeric pea gravel installed a subsurface irrigation system with spigots and timers to each bed added soil amendments added new and interesting xeric plants Plants in this garden were chosen for their heat tolerance and low maintenance. Each plant is evaluated in the spring for winter hardiness and throughout the growing season for aesthetic qualities (flower & foliage characteristics), overall health, and maintenance problems (insect, disease, aggressive growth). Each year we are given plants from the Plant Select® organization (http://plantselect.org/) to display as excellent examples of plants hardy for our region. Currently, over 85 species of annuals, herbaceous perennials and woody shrubs inhabit the beds. Perhaps the biggest challenge in the garden is heat. The garden beds sit on dark concrete, are surrounded by heat reflecting walls and buildings, and in full sun. Most of the plants thrive in the heat, but a few species show signs of heat stress by mid-summer. In the winter, conditions are warmer than in the average garden, but the irrigation system is turned off and winter watering must be done by hand. Unfortunately, the garden is rarely irrigated often enough and the plants enter spring growth with a water deficit. The garden is open to the public when the Fairground gates are open. The gardens are maintained year round as a project by the CSU Extension Master Gardener program in Pueblo County.
2012 Yard and Garden Classes Vegetable Gardening, Saturday, March 24, 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Efficient Irrigation, Saturday, April 14, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Dramatic Container Gardens, Tuesday, April 17, 6-9 p.m. Essential Botany for Beginners and Beyond, Saturday, April 28, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Making Garden Trough Planters, Saturday, May 12, 9:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Composting Basics, Tuesday, September 11, 6-9 p.m. Fall Into Spring: Preparing the Garden for Winter, Tuesday, September 25, 6-9 p.m. Introduction to Organic Food Production, Saturday, October 6, 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m. For more information or to register for classes, please call 719-583-6566 or visit the CSU Extension website at http://pueblo.colostate.edu. Cost is $15 per class or $25 for couples sharing materials.
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Garden Tip: Flea beetles Flea beetles, a common pest on vegetable crops, are small, shiny, and jump when disturbed. The adults chew ―shotholes‖ in leaves. There are dozens of types of flea beetles and each has a favorite plant to feed on. Injury from flea beetles is most important on young plants; once plants are established, the injury is usually minor and easily outgrown. The best control is to promote active growth of seedlings, exclude the insect with floating row covers, and use Sevin or diatomaceous earth if necessary. For more information, see CSU Extension fact sheet 5.592: Flea Beetles, at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ pubs/insect/05592.pdf 14
INTERESTING INSECTS
WHAT’S ALL THE “BUZZ” ABOUT POLLINATION? by Marti Osborn, Associate Director/Education/Horticulture Pueblo Zoo
As Stephen Buchmann and Gary Paul Nabhan wrote in The Forgotten Pollinators, "Pumpkins, cranberries, cucumbers, figs, and over 220,000 other plants produce fruits and vegetables we enjoy thanks to the work of pollinators— bees, butterflies, moths, bats, birds, wasps, beetles, and many others." Pollination by living creatures is a fundamental ecological process. For one in every three bites of food you eat, an animal pollinator was involved in bringing it to you. Flowers pollinated in the daytime often are brightly colored in order to attract pollinators. Plants that bloom in the evening or nighttime generally have light colored, sweet scented flowers, to attract nocturnal pollinators such as sphinx moths. Very few plants are visited exclusively by one pollinator. Instead, there usually are groups of bee or bird species that respond to certain flower shapes or fragrances. For example, there are many kinds of deep, funnel-shaped flowers, which attract hummingbirds as Above: Mason bee, Scott Bauer, USDA well as long-tongued bees. The pollen in open-shaped flowers is readily Agricultural Research Service. Below: Bumblebee, Whitney Cranshaw, available to many kinds of pollinators; so pollen-collecting bees are the Colorado State University. primary visitors. It is easy to underestimate the impact we can have by Photos courtesy of Bugwood.org planning and planting a pollinator garden. Bumblebees nest in abandoned rodent holes, in old compost piles, or in birdhouses. They frequently are the first bees active in spring and the last ones active in fall, because they can regulate their body temperature by shivering and basking in the sun, enabling them to forage during cooler, and even wet weather. In addition, they can ―buzz-pollinate‖ flowers, by shaking their entire bodies. For bumblebees, an upside-down flowerpot filled with upholstering material will provide a nesting site. About 70% of North American native bees are ground nesters, needing access to sandy or loamy soils. Plans to build wooden boxes are available online. Continued on page 16 15
Continued from page 15
Other natives, such as green sweat bees, nest in the ground in vertical tunnels and visit a wide variety of flowers for pollen and nectar. Some social sweat bees nest in underground tunnels, as well. Females excavate cells and provision them with nectar and pollen to feed their developing brood. The following chart illustrates the diversity of plants that can be grown locally to attract pollinators. All of these plant species require animal pollinators—mostly bees. Common Name
Pollinators
Milkweed
Monarch butterflies
Lavender
Bumble bees, honey bees, many species of native bees
Butterflyweed/Milkweed
Bees, wasps, flies, butterflies
Russian Sage
Bumblebees, many native bees, European honeybees
Hummingbird Trumpet
Hummingbirds
Pineleaf Penstemon
Hummingbirds
Twinspur
Native small bees, European honeybees
Leadplant
Bumblebees, native bees, European honeybees
Oregon Grape Holly
Bees
Blanket flower
Bees, butterflies
Rocky Mtn. Penstemon
Native bees, including bumblebees, European honeybees, sphinx moths
Jimsonweed
Moths
Broadbeard or Pagoda Beardtongue
Native bees, including bumblebees
Goldenrods
Bumblebees, some wasps
Native plants are four times more likely than non-native plants to attract native bees, and native plant generally support three times as many species of butterflies and moths as introduced plants do. Plant diversity is very important in the design of pollinator plantings. Ten to 20 carefully chosen species grouped in fairly close proximity tend to attract a greater variety and abundance of bee species. Flowers that begin blooming in early spring should be included, since it is important for early emerging bees such as bumblebees to utilize this resource. Then, make sure there are at least three species blooming during spring, summer, and fall. The addition of these interesting plants to your garden will not only increase the local populations of pollinators, which may be at risk due to habitat degradation, but also ensure the backyard A native leafcutter bee visits the flower of the native Opuntia polyacantha, plains gardener a bountiful harvest and a safe habitat for all kinds of wildlife. prickly pear. Photo by M. Osborn.
Editor’s note: The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation (http://www.xerces.org/bees/)is a good source for information on bees. Click on Publications, then on Fact Sheets. 16