Summer
Volume 4, Issue 2
2013
From the Ground Up A Gardening and Native Plants Quarterly
Colorado State University Extension-Pueblo County 701 Court Street · Suite C · Pueblo, CO 81003 · 719-583-6566 · coopext_pueblo@mail.colostate.edu KNOW YOUR NATIVES
INDIAN PAINTBRUSH by Warren Nolan, Native Plant Master, 2008 Many Coloradoans, especially those who pay attention to such things as wildflowers, might argue that the genus Castilleja (Indian paintbrush), not Aquilegia (Columbine), should be the state flower. Unlike the Columbine, Indian paintbrush are found in every Colorado county and they thrive in a wide range of habitats and life zones--from the plains to the mountains. They also manifest a tapestry of sizes and colors, from cream to brilliant orange. For me, the fiery orange bracts burn away the drab grays and browns of late winter. More than any other plant, the Indian paintbrush announces the onset of spring. The genus Castilleja is named for Domingo Castillejo, who was an eighteenth-century Spanish botanist. Indian paintbrush are members of the figwort or Scrophulariaceae family, whose big "know-me" characteristics are opposite leaves on square stems and flowers which are typically two-sided or bilaterally symmetrical. The true flower petals of the Castilleja are usually greenish-yellow, it is the colorful bracts and sepals that burn the eye. The USDA Plants Database (plants.usda.gov) classifies 107 species of paintbrush, while William Weber in his Colorado Photo courtesy of easterncoloradowildflowers.com Flora-Eastern Slope identifies 12 different species. Weber notes that C. sessiliflora, with its greenish white bracts, is, "Our only strictly plains paintbrush‖. But C. integra may be more common and with its "orange-crimson" bracts, it is the iconic western paintbrush. Castilleja species hybridize with each other, and consequently, individual species can be difficult to identify. While widespread in the wild, the Indian paintbrush, although fairly easy to germinate, can be difficult to grow in the garden. Some species will readily germinate at 70° F without cold stratification, but once germinated, they can be difficult to get established. Indian paintbrush are semi-parasitic--their roots will raid the roots of other plants for nourishment. Consequently, they do much better with a host plant, typically another native like Blue grama grass, sage, or Zinnia grandiflora.
INDEX Know Your Natives 1 Perennial People Garden Walks 2 Harvest & Table Mulch During Drought 3 Interesting Insects Fabulous Families 4 Advertisements Summer Lawn Care 4 Drying Herbs Harmonious Hardscapes 5-6 Fun Guys Salad Greens 6 Digging Deeper Wicked Weeds 7
8 8-9 9 10 10 11 12
GARDEN WALKS
KENDRICK LAKE GARDENS by Linda McMulkin, CSU Extension/Pueblo County, Horticulture Coordinator
The Denver metro area is home to many outstanding demonstration gardens, from the city block that makes up Denver Botanic Gardens to median plantings along major roadways to pocket parks at neighborhood entrances. One of my favorite Denver area gardens is at Kendrick Lake Park in Lakewood. The gardens at Kendrick Lake were started during the drought of 2002; conditions were harsh and water restrictions limited the irrigation gardeners normally rely on to establish new plants. The keys to success were soil preparation, good design, and excellent plant selection. To improve soil drainage, the beds are raised above the surrounding grade and amended with 1/8 to ﾂｼ inch stone aggregate (known as squeegee). The beds were mulched with three sizes of gravel before planting and any gravel that fell into the planting hole was counted as additional amendment. Landscape boulders were added for visual interest and to shelter plant roots. The gardens contain hundreds of plant species, with the focus on shrubs, cactus, bulbs, and herbaceous perennials. Colorado natives mix with plants from dry Photos Courtesy of L. McMulkin climates around the world, often in interesting and unexpected combinations. As in any well designed garden, there is always something new in bloom or fruit, so the garden is always changing. My favorite season to visit is early fall, when the ornamental grasses and late summer bloomers are at their peak. The garden has won numerous awards for design and serves as an educational resource for Colorado citizens who want to learn about water-wise gardening. It has been designated as a showcase garden by Plant Select, which means it has a unique and exceptional artistic design, a diverse plant palette, and is well maintained. Kendrick Lake Park is located at 9351 W. Jewell Avenue in Lakewood, Colorado. The park is open from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. There is ample parking, restrooms, playgrounds, a mile long trail around the lake, picnic tables, and a wonderful demonstration garden. What a great stop on your next trip to Denver!
Farmers Market Mark your calendars for the opening day of the market窶認riday, July 5 at the Midtown Shopping Center parking lot near the 4th Street bridge entrance. The market hours are from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Tuesdays and Fridays until early October. Find your favorite produce and crafts and stop by and talk with a Colorado Master Gardener at the CSU Extension booth for help with your home landscaping questions. Come and support your local farmers!
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Mulch is Critical During Drought by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007 Unfortunately, the drought continues and is not expected to end this year. Water restrictions are already in place in some areas. All water suppliers are encouraging users to irrigate at appropriate times (early morning, evening) and to irrigate infrequently but thoroughly to encourage deep root growth. There is an additional step gardeners should take now to help their landscapes survive yet another hot, dry summer – mulch. Mulching is listed as one of the seven steps of Xeriscape gardening, and with good reason. Used properly, it can provide the following benefits:
Minimize the amount of heat and light reflected onto plant surfaces and structures. The irregular surface, and sometimes darker color, of mulch provides less reflectivity than bare native soil. Regulate the temperature of soil, resulting in less evaporation in summer (and, in winter, preventing freeze damage and frost heave). Minimize soil‘s exposure to drying winds. Discourage weeds, which compete with desirable plants for available moisture. Mulch accomplishes this by blocking sunlight to many weed seeds. Keep water in the root zone, where it is most useable by plants. This encourages root growth, which stabilizes soil and enables plants to utilize water efficiently. Soften the impact of rain or above-ground irrigation so that more water is absorbed rather than running off. Because it affects the appearance and maintenance requirements of the landscape, deciding which mulch to use is somewhat a matter of personal preference. Organic mulches, such as shredded bark, wood chips and wood shavings, can provide the benefits listed above and also add nutrients to soil. Small sizes break down rapidly, which can deplete nitrogen from soil during the decay process. Large sizes are easily blown away in the strong winds of southeastern Colorado and must be replenished regularly. A temporary organic mulch of composted leaves or grass clippings is a good choice for annual beds or vegetable gardens because it can be turned under each fall. Inorganic mulches, such as crushed stone, river rock, and gravel, are a better choice for native plants and other adapted perennials and shrubs, which thrive on little water and in poor soil. Because inorganic mulch does not break down, it causes no nitrogen depletion. It is a more permanent solution because it is not disturbed by wind. For a detailed discussion of mulch, please refer to CSU Extension Fact Sheet No. 7.214 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07214.html.
Garden Tip: Caring for Trees During Drought Trees in southeastern Colorado are struggling due to our continued drought. It is important to apply water to the entire root zone and deep enough to reach the roots. Remember that on a mature tree, the root spread is 3 to 5 times the size of the canopy, so you may have to enlist the help of your neighbors to water effectively. Apply 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter (measured at knee height) each time you irrigate. If you use a deep-root watering needle or fork, insert no deeper than 8 inches, as most of a tree‘s root system can be found in the top foot of the soil. Apply water slowly so it soaks into the soil to 12 inches deep.
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FABULOUS FAMILIES
GROSSULARIACEAE—The Gooseberry or Currant Family by Dr. Neal Osborn, PhD, Professor Emeritus, CSU-Pueblo
The Grossulariaceae family contains only one genus, Ribes, which consists entirely of woody shrubs. The leaves are simple, consisting of several palmate lobes. The flowers, white, pink, or yellow, consist of a shallow cup-shaped to a tubular hypanthium (fused bases of floral structures forming cup or tube). The five free ends of the hypanthium are the upper portions of the sepals. The fruit is yellow-green (gooseberry) or red (currants). The fruit is eagerly sought after by many animals (humans included). The currants make great ornamentals, especially Ribes aureum (Golden Currant). Gooseberry shrubs have thorns, so place them away from paths. Because of the appearance of the leaves, if the plant is not in flower or in fruit, Ribes may be confused with Physocarpus (Ninebark), a member of the Rosaceae family. Physocarpus has exfoliating bark which is never present in Ribes. For additional information about Ribes aureum, see the USDA Plant Fact Sheet at http://plants.usda.gov/factsheet/pdf/fs_riauv.pdf.
USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. An Illustrated Flora of the Northern United States, Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Vol. 2: 239
Summer Lawn Care and Watering, by Jerry Stimpfl, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009 It looks like another hot summer. If you watered during the winter months, you have a head start on summer. If you failed to water during the cold months, your lawn probably needs help. In Pueblo West, we are under a ―voluntary‖ watering schedule. Properties with addresses ending in odd numbers will be allowed to water on odd days. Properties with addresses ending in even numbers should water on even days. All outdoor watering will be restricted to hours between 8 p.m. and 8 a.m. There will be no watering on the 31st of any month between March and September. The next question is the amount of water to use. The amount needed by turf depends on soil type, the grass species, and weather conditions. The Southeastern Colorado Water Conservancy District has a very good guide that will explain sprinkler watering times and how to compute the run time at http://www.secwcdxeriscape.org/pdf/LawnWateringGuide.pdf. The secret to healthy turf is like any plant. The lawn needs air, light, nutrients, and water. Since the soil is very dry it needs to be watered in a way that allows water to penetrate. Water the lawn in short periods. Do not run your sprinkler system for an extended period-the water will run off! The soil needs to adjust from dry to damp. As the water starts to absorb into soil the run time on the sprinkler can be increased so that the soil becomes moist four to six inches deep. You can check the depth by driving a screw driver in the yard in several locations. Core aeration is recommended once the soil is moist in the spring, although June is rather late for this task. Aeration pulls up small plugs of soil/grass and allows air to permeate the soil. It is time to give the lawn a good application of fertilizer. After fertilizing, give the lawn another good watering. Remember, water well and you will not need to water as often!
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HARMONIOUS HARDSCAPES
HYDROPONIC STRAWBERRIES IN THE GARDEN by Vic Boley, Colorado Master Gardener, 2012
Over the winter, I was searching for a way to satisfy the gardener in me and after reading some articles and watching YouTube videos, I became quite fascinated with the subject of hydroponics. I experimented with growing hydroponic lettuce and tomatoes in front of large windows in my walkout basement. I had some success with both and the family enjoyed some freshly picked salads from my hydroponic garden. With my recent salad success, I decided to expand my hydroponic study, and thought it was a perfect opportunity to start a new project. During my recent harvests, I noted the tomato plant had an over-production of vegetative growth compared to fruiting. I knew I had more research to do on providing the proper nutrient solution and temperatures to stimulate fruiting. Doing so, I discovered there are Hydroponic lettuce. different solutions to be used at different stages of plant growth, such as Photo courtesy of Vic Boley. to stimulate blossoming or fruiting. There are many different types of hydroponic systems to choose from, including Ebb and Flow, Deep Water Culture, Wick Systems, Nutrient Film Technique and Aeroponics. All use the same concept of growing in a soilless environment and supplying oxygen and nutrients using a specially designed nutrient solution to the roots. Searching the internet, I quickly realized that the design of a system is only limited by imagination. Examples I found range from rain gutters nailed onto existing fences or buildings, or constructing an A-frame from 2 by 4‘s. Containers can be hung from patios, balconies or fences. You can design and construct your own containers to grow your plants in, such as towers from PVC pipe or a Dutch bucket system. There are plenty of options available that can be purchased, such as stackable grow towers like the ―Agro Grow‖ system or even the Topsey Turvey. Most of these systems can also be used with conventional growing medium, such as soil or a quality potting mix, but these would require additional care to provide proper watering for the plants during periods of warmer temperatures to ensure roots don‘t dry out. Monitoring the pH and strength of the nutrient solution is important, as different growing mediums can affect the pH. An EC meter (electrical conductivity) is handy for monitoring the solution strength to make sure the proper nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) is available for the plant at certain stages. After some research, the nutrient solution I chose for the project was General Hydroponics Maxi Bloom 5-14-15. For my initial hydroponic strawberry project, I designed a double layered PVC Ebb and Flow system attached to corner posts of an existing raised bed in my garden. I purchased strawberry plants from a well-known, online source and filled my system with Perlite to be used as the growing medium. I positioned a 7-gallon tote as a reservoir for my nutrient solution and used a small solar powered Strawberries planted in holes in PVC pipe. fountain pump to circulate the solution through the system. Photo courtesy of Vic Boley. Continued on page 6
Subscribe to this quarterly horticulture newsletter by contacting Carolyn at 583-6574. Available in paper and electronic formats. 5
Hydroponics continued from page 6
But Mother Nature is not always kind. Spring time in Colorado runs the risk of low temperatures and trying to get a jump on things for this article, I started too soon and my strawberry plants succumbed to freezing temperatures. But, it being early in the season, I will remain undaunted by the setback and continue with the project as some of the plants are starting to show signs of life. I‘m considering adding a Dutch Bucket system to the project and I will include a follow up article with photos later in the year.
Salad Greens and Safety! by Lois Illick, Extension Agent, Family and Consumer, CSU Extension/Pueblo County
People hardly consider that little green leaves and stalks can be deadly, but they can! Fresh salad greens are now considered one of the most deadly foods people eat. In fact, the Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment (CDPHE) now has regulations for retailers to deal with handling cut greens. Any green that has been cut, more than from the ground, must be refrigerated or stored on ice before serving to consumers. Cutting the leaf opens the plant to bacteria which can grow on the moist surface. As you have heard from news programs, more and more greens are contaminated with E. coli bacteria or other bacteria. This is often because of animals in the field or unclean facilities after harvest. Manure compost and the source of irrigation water can also lead to contamination. However, in the home, people are the number one source of food borne illnesses. Courtesy of CSU Extension You can prevent the food illnesses by doing the following: Wash your hands thoroughly before working with greens. Thoroughly wash fruits and vegetables before eating them. Even the pre-washed ones! Presoaking lettuce for 5 minutes in a bowl of dilute vinegar-water (1/2 cup distilled white vinegar per 2 cups water), followed by a clean water rinse, has been shown to reduce bacterial contamination but may affect texture and taste. (Not in the sink! Sinks need cleaning and sanitizing more routinely than most people do. ) After washing produce, blot dry with paper towels or use a salad spinner to remove excess moisture. Store your greens safely in the refrigerator above the raw meats and poultry or any other food that can drip juices onto it! (I know – the manufacturers need to look at their designs!) Do not wash fruits and vegetables with detergent or bleach solutions. Many types of fresh produce are porous and could absorb these chemicals, changing their safety and taste. For much more information on garden-to-table safety, check out the CSU Fact Sheets: 9.369 E.Coli Prevention from Garden to Table 9.373 Salad Greens: Health Benefits and Safe Handling 9.380 Guide to Washing Fresh Produce Garden Tip: Pruning Shrubs While shearing shrubs is fast, in terms of plant health it is not the best method of pruning. Shearing stimulates weak growth on deciduous shrubs and exposes bare branches on many evergreens. Rather than shearing, take the time to hand prune your shrubs to the shape you want. For more information on pruning shrubs, see the Colorado Master Gardener GardenNotes at http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/619.pdf (flowering shrubs) and http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/618.pdf (evergreens). 6
WICKED WEEDS
BLACK MEDIC by Cheryl DeLong, Colorado Master Garden, 2008 A wicked weed in my life is quietly creeping through my front lawn. Medicago lupulina (aka black medic, hop clover, yellow trefoil) is considered an annual that reproduces by seed and it has a taproot. It resembles and is often confused with white clover and, like clover, is a legume. The stems are angled, slender and hairy. They branch and spread from the taproot. The green, compound leaves have three oval shaped leaflets up to ½ inch long. The yellow flowers are small and round and grow in clusters. The fruit, a pod, turns black when ripe. One seed is produced per pod...yikes that means thousands! I have lived on this property for about seven years and first noticed black medic three years ago and only in my front yard. The first year that I noticed this wicked weed was late summer when I was focused on too many other yard/property issues—fun things like planting flowers and installing a Xeriscape garden. The amount seemed fairly small so I ignored it. Last year I noticed it had spread considerably but again late in the summer and only in my front yard. I have four small garden areas and found it curious that it wasn‘t showing up anywhere else. This time I used a broadleaf herbicide in late July, which I thought would knock it out. I also thought mowing Courtesy of Robert H. Mohlenbrock @ USDAwould help control the spread till I had the time to focus on it. HA, it NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA NRCS. 1992. wetland flora: Field office guide to plant has surfaced again but much earlier and, this year, I am committed to Western species. West Region, Sacramento. getting rid of this wicked weed. What I‘ve learned from Plantalk Colorado, Robert L. Zimdahl‘s Weeds of Colorado, and a variety of websites is:
Black medic thrives in lawns under stress from compaction, heat and drought Lawns should be adequately fertilized Hand weeding is most effective and should be done before seeds are produced Aerating the lawn at least once a year can help with compaction of the soil Herbicide treatments are most effective before seeds mature Spot treatment is preferable to broadcast applications
I‘ve reflected on what I‘ve done right…not much. I did fertilize, I did have the lawn aerated, and I did use an appropriate herbicide, but at the wrong time of year. Heading into my fourth year the fertilizing and aerating has been done; a spot application of herbicide has been applied to the young plants, and I‘ve got more ready if needed. My greatest change has been taking the Hand Weeding Pledge. The other step I need to take is to determine the level of soil compaction using the penetrometer from the CSU Extension office. I‘ve done the research, adopted a ―can do‖ attitude, and developed a plan. Now, I‘m looking forward to a black medic free lawn! Garden Tip: CO-Horts Blog Want expert advice on gardening in Colorado? Check out CO-Horts, a new blog featuring posts from Colorado State University Extension horticulture agents and specialists. The information focuses on gardening in Colorado‘s unique climate. Recent posts covered topics ranging from rainwater harvesting to weed management to rabbits in the garden. You will find this excellent blog at http://csuhort.blogspot.com/.
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PERENNIAL PEOPLE
DERIC STOWELL, Miracle Community Garden by Elizabeth Catt, CSU Extension/Pueblo County, Horticulture Assistant
Deric Stowell has been gardening for as long as he can remember. He started gardening on his family‘s dairy farm in Idaho. Later, he switched gears dramatically and lived in San Diego, California. Deric is a self-proclaimed ―nerd‖ who is a computer specialist by day and a community garden activist by night. He is quickly learning the ins and outs of gardening in Pueblo. He is dedicated to making the Miracle Community Garden at the Milagro Christian Church a viable and sustainable community asset. This year, his dream is to see people harvesting vegetables from the garden. I met with Deric recently in the garden to discuss what has been accomplished and what the future vision for the property might encompass. To date, 13 full-size plots and 1 half sized plot have been built. There is water to each plot and the present area of the garden has been fenced in. The garden now uses just a small portion of the available property. Like many of the community gardens that have sprouted up in Pueblo, the Miracle Community has been in the conceptual ether for a while. Now that beds have been built and water installed, Deric talked about possible future uses for the rest of the property such as urban poultry plots, an orchard, and an outdoor ―performance park‖ area, as well as increasing the gardening space. Some of the techniques he would like to see incorporated into the garden are cover crops for soil improvement and growing more food for those in need. His personal favorites to grow and enjoy are Swiss chard and kohlrabi but he hasn‘t met a vegetable he doesn‘t like. Deric can be seen fishing in the river for his supper and checking out which wild plants are edible. He is taking the Native Plant Master courses this year to get more familiar with foraging in the wild. When asked what the greatest challenges to getting the garden up and running was, he quickly replied, ‗funding, and supposed that was a typical challenge for any community garden‘.
Between Harvest and Table by Carol O‘Meara, Extension Agent, Boulder County You‘ve weeded and seeded, fretted over water and insects, pampering your plants in the dream of harvesting a delectable bounty for your table. The plants responded by burgeoning with fruit and you‘re headed out to reap your rewards. What you do next makes all the difference between tasty, nutritious vegetables - plump with flavor, crowning your summer table - and the agony of short-lived food reduced to little more than a slimy mass in the corner of your refrigerator‘s crisper. But with a little planning, your vegetables will be crisp and delicious for days after harvest. Being 90 to 95-percent water, vegetables continue to ―live‖ after harvest, respirating and losing water, nutrition, and taste as they age. Different parts of the plant do this at different speeds, with tender shoots and leaves degrading the quickest, followed by fruit. The parts that last longest are those that form underground, like potatoes, carrots, or parsnips. To ensure that you get the most of flavor and nutrition, follow the three golden rules for post-harvest: keep them cool, keep them wet, and handle with Photo courtesy of O. O‘Callaghan care. In the heat of summer, keeping the harvest cool can be a challenge, so plan to reap during cool mornings. If that time doesn‘t work, have a bucket of cold water nearby to plunge vegetables in to cool them rapidly. This isn‘t recommended for dry storage items like garlic, onions, dry Continued on page 9
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Between Harvest and Table continued from page 8
beans, or potatoes, but it works well on other type of crops. Avoid placing your crops in sunlight, where heat and UV rays cause the crop to respirate at a high rate. Curing long-storage crops is a means to toughen and dry their skins for best keeping quality, plus provides the benefit of converting starches to sugars, improving flavor and texture. Potatoes, pumpkins, onions, and winter squash (except acorn, which gets stringy if cured) need 5 to7 days at a dry 70-80 degrees F before being placed in storage. Sweet potatoes should be cured for 5 to7 days at 80 to 85 degrees F. Once in the kitchen, most produce needs cool temperatures and high humidity. Beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, leeks, celeriac, winter radish (Daikon), and sunchokes should be stored at 32-40 degrees F, in 90-95-percent humidity. Potatoes, apples, and cabbage should be chilled the same, but at a lower humidity of 80 to 90-percent. Provide the extra humidity by placing a damp paper towel with your crops in the crisper of your refrigerator. Dry storage of garlic, onions, and dry beans should be held at a cool 32 to 50 degrees, while winter squash, pumpkins, and sweet potatoes like a balmy 50 to 60 degrees. In dry storage, humidity is still higher than in a typical Colorado home: these crops need 60 to 70-percent relative humidity. Leaving some crops in the garden into winter is as easy as pulling a blanket of mulch over them. Carrots, parsnips, and turnips can be left in the ground covered by a foot of straw placed over them after the ground cools. If blanketed too soon, the heat of the soil prevents the sweetening effect of cool soils on the roots, and you‘ll miss out on flavor. Be sure to pull and use all of them before spring; once growth resumes on them in spring they become inedible. INTERESTING INSECTS
GRASSHOPPERS IN THE GARDEN by Linda McMulkin Every gardener has a pest that they dread seeing. For many, that pest is grasshoppers. Most of us are familiar with the sound grasshoppers in flight, the startle factor when they jump out of the lettuce patch, and the ragged-leaf damage they cause. There are over 100 species of grasshopper in Colorado. While some grasshoppers eat economically important crops, many of us are concerned only with the species that attack plants in our vegetable gardens or landscapes. Damage to vegetables and flowers begins locally in late May and extends until a hard frost in the fall. Grasshoppers lay eggs in relatively dry, undisturbed soil in the fall. Late May and early June is hatching season, when the tiny nymphs emerge and begin to feed on tender foliage nearby. The nymphs develop over several weeks, molting five or six times before becoming a winged adult. Grasshoppers move into our lush, irrigated landscapes as their hatching sites dry up or when the food sources are depleted. Grasshopper populations fluctuate year to year depending on weather and other factors. With this spring‘s fluctuating temperatures and dry conditions, this year may be a light grasshopper year. Since controlling grasshoppers is most effective when they are young, check your area for nymphs by walking through empty lots or nearby pastures. Apply bait or spray areas where you find young grasshoppers. In addition to chemical insecticides containing carbayl, acephate, or permethrin, home gardeners have a biological option for controlling young grasshoppers. Wheat germ impregnated with a grasshopper pathogen, Nosema locustae, can be spread in areas where nymphs are feeding. The disease takes time to develop, but infected grasshoppers become lethargic, stop eating, and die in about a week. This bait is sold under the trade names NoLo Bait and Semaspore. The pathogen only infects grasshoppers, so pets, wildlife, and humans are not in danger. Another organic control option for grasshoppers is to get some pet chickens, encourage beneficial insects and spiders, or attract birds to your landscape. For more information on grasshoppers, see CSU Extension fact sheet 5.536 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05536.pdf. 9
The CSU Extension Family and Consumer Sciences program has many interesting upcoming classes. For details http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/Pueblo/fam/fami.shtml or contact CSU Extension at 719-583-6566. Class size is limited. Payment with registration required. Cash or checks only/no credit cards. Preserving the Harvest Food Preservation Classes: Water Bath—Hands-On Workshop, June 18, 6-9 pm, Fee $10 Deadline June 11 Pressure Canning, June 27, 6-8 pm, Fee $5 Deadline—June 20 Pressure Canning Hands-On Workshop, July 16, 1-5 pm, Fee $10 Deadline—July 9 Freezing & Dehydrating, July 23, 6-8 pm, Fee $5 Deadline—July 16 Pickling, August 14, 6-8 pm Fee $5 Deadline—August 7 Two-Part, Hands-On Workshop, August 24, Deadline August 16 Water Bath, 9 am—12 pm Pressure Canning, 1-4 pm Fee $10/each or $15/both
Community Open Class Competition at the Pueblo County Fair Monday, July 8, 2013 Any Pueblo County resident can compete at the County Fair in Community Open Class. No entry fee or pre-entry required. Exhibit check-in 10 a.m.—Noon, July 8, at the Southwest Motors Events Center at the Colorado State Fairgrounds. Exhibit judging—1:30—3:00 p.m., July 8, and judging is open to the public. Exhibit release—11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday, July 14 New projects, great prizes! Check our website for details: http://pueblo.colostate.edu
Dried Herbs in Two Minutes Flat! by Marcia Weaber, Colorado Master Gardener, 2005 There are many ways to dry the bounty of the herb garden. Hanging them upside down was the way our ancestors preserved their abundance of herbs. This progressed to the dehydrator that circulated warm air through the trays for a period of time to remove the moisture from the herbs. I have discovered an innovative way to dry herbs that retains the color and the oils that give the herbs their flavor. The microwave! I tried it last summer and was amazed at how fast it was to dry a large picking of herbs. The herbs I dried were sweet basil, flat leaf parsley, chives and celery leaves. They retain their color and are very fragrant when the jar is opened. The directions are very simple. Rinse and thoroughly dry the herbs on clean dish towels; damp plants will cook rather than dry. Remove all of the nice leaves from the stems. Lay the leaves between two paper towels in one layer, not touching each other, then slide the towels into the microwave. I use the back side of a small cookie sheet to make the transfer easy. Set the microwave for one minute, slide the paper towels to the back side of the cookie sheet, place another small cookie sheet bottom side down over the paper towels and flip over the paper towels and herbs and return to the microwave for one minute. This time is approximate as microwaves have different powers. When finished, you should have a crisp layer of leaves. If still leathery add more time on the second side. However, you never want to see brown or black spots on the leaves; this is a sign they are too hot and are on the verge of burning, so cut back on the last minute. I use two sets of paper towels, so I can load one set while the other one is drying. When the leaves seem sufficiently dry, slide them into a bowl and add successive batches. Let them dry overnight, uncovered, and crunch them with your hand or leave whole, store in an airtight container; half-pint glass jars are perfect. 10
Fun Guys by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009 Many types of soil fungi form relationships with plant roots growing in healthy soil. Mycorrhizal fungi benefit plants by taking up nutrients and water from the soil, in exchange for sugars formed by the plant during photosynthesis. In the past century, the symbiotic relationship between fungi and roots has been studied, but many details are still unclear. Although many mycorrhizal fungi do not produce what we think of as a typical mushroom, many of the wild culinary mushrooms people pick and enjoy as food are mycorrhizal mushrooms such as chanterelles, truffles and morels. I like to pick boletus or porcini mushrooms in the conifer forests near Pueblo. Mycorrhizal fungi form a threadlike network of strands, called hyphae or mycelia. You may have also noticed fungal hyphae on food left in your refrigerator too long, the bleu cheese on your salad, or under the decomposing leaves that you used to mulch your garden. If you have ever picked a mushroom, you may have noticed that the soil beneath the mushroom is filled with white, threadlike hyphae. You may have also noticed white hyphae around the roots of plants. There are many different types of mycorrhizal fungi, each having a different and unique relationship with their plant host. Mycorrhizal fungi associate with the vast majority of perennial plants (90% or more), including those of the desert southwest and prairies of Pueblo. Many, if not most, of these relationships are not fully understood. The two main types of mycorrhizal fungi are ectomycorrhizal fungi and endomycorrhizal fungi. The hyphae of ectomycorrhizal, or extracellular, fungi surround the plant roots, creating a sheath covering the plant roots, but generally do not penetrate the cells of the host plant roots. Endomycorrhizal, or intracellular, fungi surround and cover the roots and actually penetrate the plant‘s cells. Plants and mycorrhizal fungi are old chums that break bread and mingle together, so to speak. Plants produce sugars. Fungi gather and store water as they decompose organic matter into base nutrients. In a mycorrhizal relationship, fungus and plants share resources with each other; the plant provides carbohydrates for the fungus and the fungus provides moisture and minerals (particularly phosphorus, sulfur and iron) for the plant. You might deduce the importance of mycorrhizal fungi to plants in our region since our alkaline soils bind iron and the phosphorus availability is highly tied to alkalinity. Furthermore, droughts are common in the highly alkaline plains of Colorado. The mycorrihiza help plants survive drought, makes them more resistant to pathogens, and may assist bacteria in fixing nitrogen. Mycorrhizal fungi help many of the plants we know and love to be healthier and more productive. Mycorrhizal are highly associated with food crops such as wheat and blueberries, houseplants such as orchids, and outdoor garden plants such as trees and roses. One tree may have many different types of mycorrhizal fungi living with it. Since plants are dependent on mycorrhizal fungi, and we are dependent on plants, you might say we are also dependent on mycorrhizal fungi. So, next time you eat a mushroom or bite a blueberry, consider the vastness of a whole ecosystem that is tucked away from our view in its underground quarters defending our plants, and helping us have healthier, more abundant, lives. Editor‘s Note: For more information on edible mycorrhizal mushrooms, see Truffles & Other Edible Mycorrhizal Mushrooms, a publication by the University of Kentucky Extension, at http://www.uky.edu/Ag/NewCrops/introsheets/truffles.pdf. As always, use caution when harvesting mushrooms. Edible and poisonous types can look very similar. If you need any special accommodation(s) to participate in any Colorado State University Extension event, please contact CSU Extension-Pueblo County at 719-583-6566. Your request must be submitted at least five (5) business days in advance of the event. Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Pueblo County cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination.
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DIGGING DEEPER:
PLANTING FOR WILDLIFE by Georgi Lipich, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007
Guess I can‘t say I never win anything...it was a door prize from the 2012 Western Landscape Symposium. A big thank you to Claudia Stover at Growing Spaces Solar Greenhouses for sending me The New Gardening for Wildlife…a Guide for Nature Lovers by Bill Merilees! What a treat! A statement on the 2nd page immediately caught my eye: ―But for the backyard wildlife gardener, the diversity of plant and animal species we have to work with is both a joy and a headache! The joy comes from the variety of choice and the headache from having to make decisions.‖ Living in Pueblo West, I don‘t think I ever gave much thought about gardening for wildlife, except maybe butterflies, hummingbirds and bees. Yes, I have a number of critters in my yard...lots of quail, rabbits galore, the occasional fox, coyotes, snakes and a big fat toad who visits on summer evenings. But I never put much effort into encouraging them to dine and dwell in my yard. Gardening for Wildlife covers topics from butterflies to hummingbirds, snakes, spiders and ants, amphibians and reptiles, birds (for all 4 seasons!) and, of course, small mammals. This wonderful little book tells me how to make those decisions and turn those headaches into smiles. It explains what to plant, how to make sure they have the right foods and shelters, and it also explains the pros and cons of keeping them close at hand. It was a pleasure to learn about so many pros! A bonus chapter is one called ―Backyard First Aid – Caring For Sick or Injured Animals‖. I have a reputation in my family, not necessarily a good one, of rescuing anything that needs rescuing! It doesn‘t always work out well for me or for the little one I‘m ―helping‖. I‘ve poured over this chapter several times now...so many good tips on how to make it a successful ―rescue‖, and especially one that doesn‘t result in me running for the medicine cabinet. I‘m one of those people who will read anything…yes, even the back of a cereal box, but, THIS book really held my attention. I‘m looking forward to putting some of this new-found knowledge into practice this summer and am now envisioning my yard as a potential wildlife spa. Hope some of you take the time to read The New Gardening for Wildlife….a Guide for Nature Lovers published by Whitecap Books, Vancouver/Toronto (2000). It‘s a fun, intriguing book and what you‘ll learn will be even more enjoyable to put into practice. Now….where did I put that hypertufa toad house I made last year?
Garden Tip: Colorado Drought Update Southeastern Colorado continues to be in a drought, with conditions ranging from extreme to exceptional. The forecast suggests that 2013 conditions will be similar to 2012, with lower reserves in the reservoir. While the recent precipitation was welcome, it was not enough to recharge soil that has baked in the sun for months. As you plan for the growing season, treat your landscape budget as you would your household expenses. Focus on saving your trees and shrubs and any plants that can provide food for you or native wildlife. Postpone large scale landscape renovations until conditions improve. See updated drought info at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/drought/index.html
Map updated 5/28/13
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