The Great North Trail by Cycling UK

The Great North Trail An 800-mile off-road adventure route from the Peak District to Cape Wrath or John oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Groats

Cycling UK

Introduction

Contents Introduction...................................... 5 Peak District & South Pennines – Part 1 .............................................. 11 Route Overview: Middleton Top to Hebden Bridge.......... 13 White Peak: Section 1: Middleton Top to Wye Dale Valley......... 17 Dark Peak: Section 2: Wye Dale Valley to Hadfield................. 21 South Pennines: Section 3: Hadfield to Hebden Bridge.................. 27 Yorkshire Dales – Part 2.................... 33 Route Overview: Hebden Bridge to Appleby-in-Westmorland...................... 35 Ribblesdale: Section 1: Hebden Bridge to Settle...................... 39 Settle Loop: Section 2: Settle to Hawes................................. 45 Mallerstang Valley: Section 3: Hawes to Appleby-in-Westmorland........ 51 North Pennines & Northumberland – Part 3............................................... 57 Route Overview: Appleby-in-Westmorland to Kielder Forest................................ 59 North Pennines: Section 1: Appleby-in-Westmorland to Haltwhistle. 63 Northumberland: Section 2: Haltwhistle to Kielder......................... 71 Scottish Borders – Part 4.................. 77 Route Overview: Kielder Water to Edinburgh.................. 79 Wauchope Forest: Section 1: Kielder to Hawick............................... 83 Tweed Valley: Section 2: Hawick to Peebles.............................. 87 Pentlands: Section 3: Peebles to Edinburgh.......................... 91

Central Belt – Part 5......................... 99 Route Overview: Edinburgh to Glasgow......................... 100 Central Belt: Section 1: Edinburgh to Falkirk............................ 102 Central Belt: Section 2: Falkirk to Glasgow.............................. 106 Grampian Mountains – Part 6............. 111 Route Overview: Glasgow to Fort Augustus................... 113 Campsie Fells: Section 1: Glasgow to Callander.......................... 117 The Trossachs: Section 2: Callander to Corrour........................... 121 Loch Laggan & Corrieyairack Pass: Section 3: Corrour to Fort Augustus..................... 125 Northern Highlands – Part 7............... 133 Route Overview: Fort Augustus to Oykel Bridge.............. 135 Northern Highlands: Section 1: Fort Augustus to Garve Station............ 139 Northern Highlands: Section 2: Garve Station to Oykel Bridge.............. 143 Sutherland & Caithness – Part 8........ 147 Route Overview: Oykel Bridge to Cape Wrath or John o’ Groats............................... 148 Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 1: Oykel Bridge to Altnacaillich................ 153 Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 2: Altnacaillich to Cape Wrath................. 157 Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 3: Altnacaillich to Forsinard Station......... 160 Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 4: Forsinard Station to John o’ Groats...... 162 The Great North Trail – Credits........... 168 3

Cape Wrath

John o' Groats

Oykel Bridge

Fort Augustus

Glasgow Kielder

Appleby-in-Westmorland

Hebden Bridge

Middleton Top

0 0

100 Miles 200 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Introduction

The Great North Trail

Explore the huge variety packed into northern Britain: from rolling hills and dales to remote windswept moorland, crumbling castles to hidden waterfalls, swooping singletrack to old Roman roads and everything in between. The 800-mile Great North Trail links the Pennine Bridleway with the northern tips of mainland Scotland, through some of Britain’s most stunning upland areas and four National Parks. Plans to extend the Pennine Bridleway into Scotland were proposed in 1999, but 20 years later, we’re still waiting. Cycling UK decided to take on the challenge and develop an alternative route which you can ride right now.

varies in different areas – there are many rugged upland trails across exposed moorland, suitable for more experienced mountain bikers,but also shorter sections of canal path and disused railway perfect for family days out. You can choose your own level of challenge. So whether it’s for an epic long-distance challenge, a weekend away, or a fantastic day out, get out there and have an adventure.

Cycling UK’s vision is of a network of connected off-road recreational cycling routes across the length and breadth of Great Britain, through amazing places and wild landscapes. The Great North Trail as a whole is designed to be an adventure mountain biking route, and is mainly on unsurfaced trails. However, the nature of the terrain 5

Cycling UK

Format of the guide The route is divided into eight sections, which you could ride in full over a long weekend or choose a shorter segment as a day ride. Part 1 – Peak District & South Pennines: Middleton Top to Hebden Bridge (129km, 2-3 days) Part 2 – Yorkshire Dales: Hebden Bridge to Appleby-in-Westmorland (171km, 2-3 days) Part 3 – North Pennines & Kielder Forest: Appleby-in-Westmorland to Kielder (123km, 2-3 days) Part 4 – Scottish Borders: Kielder to Edinburgh (154km, 2-3 days)

Part 5 – Central Belt: Edinburgh to Glasgow (83km, 1-2 days) Part 6 – Grampian Mountains: Glasgow to Fort Augustus (260km, 3-5 days) Part 7 – Northern Highlands: Fort Augustus to Oykel Bridge (151km, 2-3 days) Part 8 – Sutherland & Caithness: Oykel Bridge to Cape Wrath or John o’ Groats (133km, 2-3 days)

The final section gives you the option to choose where you want to finish: Cape Wrath, the quiet, remote and most north-westerly point of the UK, or John o’ Groats at the north-eastern tip. Each chapter includes information about places of interest along the route, recommended refreshment stops and cycle-friendly accommodation, as well as nearby train stations and bike shops. For some sections, you can choose to follow the main route or test yourself on an alternative ‘challenge loop’ for some big climbs, great views and fantastic descents. 6

Introduction

Difficulty ratings Difficulty ratings are included for each part of the route, using the standard mountain biking grading system – there is an explanation at the back of this guide. In addition to the standard Green, Blue, Red and Black, we have added a Purple

Grade

Green: Easy

grade which refers to Red technical difficulty plus remoteness, where experience of the outdoors is required. These ratings are intended as a guide only, to help you decide which sections are best for you.

Blue: Moderate

Red: Difficult

Black: Severe

Suitable Beginner cyclists and for families, riding bikes with child seats or trailers, touring bikes, bikes for those with disabilities.

Cyclists with some Experienced mountain experience of on or bikers riding off-road cycling and mountain bikes. reasonably fit families, riding mountain bikes, hybrids or robust touring bikes.

Expert mountain bikers.

Trail types

As ‘green’, also bridleways, byways, un-surfaced unclassified roads (UCRs) and lightly trafficked lanes.

Any usable trail, including some bridleways, byways and UCRs.

Technical trails, with unforgiving terrain, severe climbs and descents or considerable distances.

Shallow or moderate climbs, possibly including short sections of steeper climbs.

A wide range of steeper, tougher climbs and descents of a challenging nature.

Any rideable or usable gradient, including steep, loose, and rocky descents.

Surface /width

Blacktop or compacted Mostly stoned surfaces limestone or gravel. with 2-metre width. Essentially smooth with a minimum content of loose surfaces. Normal width 2-3 metres.

Widths from 0.4 metres and any usable surface. Likely to include singletrack and other technical sections.

As Red but with an expectation of greater and wider challenges and continuous difficulty. Can include any rideable or useable trail.

Trail hazards

These trails carry a very low risk but may include short, more difficult sections.

Unavoidable berms, boardwalks, large stones, moderate steps and drop-offs. Cambers, water crossings and ‘North Shore’ may be present.

Unavoidable obstacles with large steps and drop-offs. There will be prolonged steep, loose and rocky surfaces. Some man-made structures will be included. Can include exposed open hill sections.

Railtrails, towpaths, reservoir trails, estate or forestry tracks, traffic quiet roads.

Gradient Shallow climbs  and descents.

Some loose surfaces, ruts, potholes and/or tree roots.

Cycling UK

Navigation

Safety

There are overview maps in this guide which give an overall idea of where the route goes, but paper maps or GPS will be needed for accurate navigation as the majority of the route is not signed. To view the route online and find downloadable GPX files, head to the route pages at www.cyclinguk.org/great-north-trail

While some parts of the route are accessible for all levels of ability, other sections take you through hilly terrain where you may be quite far from civilisation. Of course, the wilderness factor is all part of the appeal, but it’s important to be prepared for the conditions as the weather can change quickly in the hills.

From Middleton Top to Kirkby Stephen (most of Parts 1 and 2), the Great North Trail mostly follows the Pennine Bridleway National Trail, so while back-up navigation is always advisable, it is fairly straightforward to follow. Part 5 from Edinburgh to Glasgow is a National Cycle Network route along the canal, so navigation is also simple.

Essentially: ride within your ability, be prepared, have fun.

The route passes through some remote upland areas, so don’t rely on having a phone signal! 8

So whether it’s for an epic long-distance challenge, a weekend away, or a fantastic day out, get out there and have an adventure.

Introduction

Which bike? Given the varied nature of the route, some sections are more suited to different kinds of bikes. This is fine if you’re riding a short section, but if you’re planning a longer trip it’s a game of compromise. The ‘right’ bike will depend on the rider, and your abilities and priorities – efficiency, comfort, or to ride and enjoy the more technical sections at speed. Some experienced riders who would want efficiency and to tough it out on the more challenging sections could use a gravel

bike, although we would suggest tyres with around 40mm width as a minimum. A hybrid bike, with 50mm-wide tyres with reasonable tread would also suffice for much of the route, but our recommended choice of bike overall would be a hardtail mountain bike or short travel (100mm) full-suspension, for comfort, enjoyment and security on the rougher terrain and descents. For advice on carrying gear for a multi-day off-road trip, go to www.cyclinguk.org/ cycle/bikepacking

Top tips for a great ride • Ride Responsibly Show respect for all other users, and take care of the environment. • Leave No Trace Practice low-impact cycling to protect trails and avoid wet and muddy trails. Keep to the line of existing trails, avoid skidding and take your litter home. • Control Your Bike Stay focused, check your speed, and think about other people. • Avoid Disturbing Animals Farm, pet and wild animals are startled by sudden noise, be considerate. • Always Plan Ahead Know your bike, your equipment, your ability and the area, and be prepared for the weather conditions. • Always Give Way Let people know you are there. Pass wide and slow, particularly with horse-riders and approach with caution on blind corners and descents. Remember – Be Nice, Say Hi!

Peak District & South Pennines PART ONE

Hebden Bridge Todmorden

Hadfield Glossop

THE DARK PEAK

Hayfield Castleton

Buxton

6 Miles

10 Kilometres

THE WHITE PEAK

Wirksworth

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Peak District & South Pennines: Route Overview

Middleton Top to Hebden Bridge Distance: 125km Ascent: 2,953m Including Jacob’s Ladder challenge loop:

Peak District The Peak District was Britain’s first National Park, founded in 1951. The area, encircled by old manufacturing towns and cities, offered an important and beautiful escape for a vast number of people, and it is still one of the most visited National Parks in the UK today. Covering 1,437km2, its geology divides the area in the White Peak to the south and the Dark Peak (also known as the High Peak) to the north.

Distance: 135km Ascent: 3,429m

Area introduction and route summary This section of the Great North Trail uses the Pennine Bridleway National Trail. This National Trail was created as a roughly parallel route to the popular Pennine Way walking trail, which could be enjoyed by horse riders and mountain bikers. The National Trail is very well signposted, making most navigation simple. There are, however, some sections that will require greater attention, and a need to reference your map, GPS or phone. The Pennine Bridleway currently stretches some 328km northwards from the White Peak of Derbyshire to the Howgill Fells in Cumbria. The route traverses a wide variety of landscapes as it passes through the Peak District and Yorkshire Dales National Parks; from rolling green farmland to open, bleak moorland, through steep-sided wooded valleys, past mills, reservoirs, canals and dismantled railways. Many sections of the trail use the original packhorse or drovers’ routes across the moors, some even dating back to medieval times, while other sections are newly negotiated to link it all together. 13

Cycling UK

Peak trails and Mary Towneley Loop The route to start, from Middleton Top, is a good, firm all weather trail, providing easy navigation and speedy progress as it follows an old railway line, heading northwards through Derbyshire and the Peak District. Once across the White Peak the trail wriggles its way across the more bleak and barren Dark Peak on rockier, millstone grit trails. There is also the possibility here to take a tougher more technical route, with an optional loop down to the village of Castleton, up Mam Tor and climb (or most probably walk!) the renowned Jacobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ladder. Will you be able to clear it, like only a very few cyclists can? This extra loop then plummets down to Hayfield, to rejoin the main route. Leaving the Dark Peak behind you, the trail then passes a series of reservoirs and skirts the towns of Oldham and Rochdale before joining the Mary Towneley Loop in the South Pennines. This 75km circular route was the first part of the Pennine Bridleway to be officially opened in 2002, and you can head either way around it. The Great North Trail route uses the east side, as it offers fewer gates, some beautiful scenery, as well as the towns of Todmorden and Hebden Bridge to visit. Be aware that east or west, both routes have steeper hills, rough trails, numerous gates and tougher navigation that will make progress slower than the first section.

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Navigation This first section of the Great North Trail uses the Pennine Bridleway National Trail, which is well signed throughout, so it doesn’t require much work on your behalf to stay on track. Obviously signs may get broken or obscured over time, so a map as a back-up and security is required, but generally you shouldn’t have any great issues following the route from signage on the ground.

Difficulty rating The High Peak Trail, from the start at Middleton Top to the A515 road crossing north of Parsley Hay All well surfaced, and a mostly flat and traffic-free cycle path. A515 crossing to the River Wye The trails become rougher, with steeper gradients and road sections, and a road crossing. Rating: Blue (except for the steep descent SK 115 723 down to the River Wye itself and the steep climb SK 115 728 out the far side, both rated Red). River Wye to Peak Forest Mostly grade Blue, although there are some rocks in places and a rocky section of track between Wheston and Peak Forest SK 122 776, which would be grade red.

Best for Family day rides and long distance rides in the White Peak. Tough and technical day rides in the Dark Peak. Wild, remote rides across the moors and steep technical, rocky rides in the valleys around Calderdale.

Jacob’s Ladder challenge loop via Castleton The optional loop via Castleton has some steep, rocky technical trails, and would have a grading of Red, with a short section in Cave Dale, just before Castleton which could be graded as Black, SK 149 824, especially if conditions aren’t ideal. Peak Forest to near Rowarth (near Glossop) Steep inclines and declines across rough and remote terrain. Glossop to Tintwistle Tintwistle to Calderdale valley Steep gradients, rough terrain and remote location.

Castleton

Peak Forest

Millers Dale Wye Dale

Parsley Hay

Litton Mill

Arbor Low Stone Circle

HIGH PEAK TRAIL

Middleton Top

Engine House

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Wirksworth

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

White Peak: Section 1

Middleton Top to Wye Dale Valley Distance: 30km

White Peak The ride starts from Middleton Top, joining the High Peak railway line, now converted into a shared cycle and pedestrian trail. This was one of the first railways in the world; built between 1825-1830, and opened in 1831, mainly designed to carry mineral goods between Cromford Canal and the Peak Forest Canal. After its closure the Peak District National Park bought most of the route in 1971 and converted it into the High Peak Trail, a wide and well surfaced path. With the good surface, easy navigation and lack of gradient as it slices between the hills, it offers a pleasant and scenic start to the ride, where you will be able to cover a good distance easily.

Middleton Top Engine House The original railway was designed to be used like a canal; on the flat sections the wagons were pulled by horses. Large steam powered beam engines in engine houses then pulled the wagons up the steep inclines using cables. At Middleton Top theÂ engine house with its massive beam engine is open for visitors to wonder at (phone 01629 823204 for details of open days). The railway was adapted over the years but finally closed completely in 1967. The section south of Buxton was then converted into the High Peak Trail. www.derbyshire.gov.uk 01629 533298

Cycling UK The visitor centre at Middleton Top is small with a basic café, but the facilities and friendly staff make it a lovely location to kick-off the adventure. The White Peak is mostly limestone, which produces deep gorges, craggy rocks and beautiful rolling green hills punctuated with dry stone walls. The firm surface of the trail and minimal gradient allows a fast and steady tempo, and with a lack of any navigational duties you’ll soon cover the 30km to the end of the High Peak Trail, which terminates by the A515 near Earl Sterndale. Thankfully, the Pennine Bridleway continues to be well signposted, and guides you down the first rough singletrack descent of the day, down into the valley of Wye Dale. Just a handful of cottages enjoy this scenic setting, along with the wooden hut of Blackwell Mill Cycle Hire.

There is a distinct change in the landscape beyond Earl Sterndale from the rolling farmland to the south. The somewhat bleak moorland to the north has steeper hills and rockier trails, as well as millstone grit which covers the limestone here, giving the Dark Peak its name and making the riding more difficult for cyclists. The rockier trails can remain more rideable than some of the muddier counterparts of the White Peak in the winter, but some areas still become saturated, creating the infamous ‘Peak paste’ which will quickly wear your bike parts down. The Wye Dale valley where the Peak changes from White to Dark also has some dark tales and controversy linked to it from its industrial past.

The Peak District is essentially an upland area; a dome-shaped anticline that has been eroded and weathered so that its core of carboniferous limestone has been exposed.

Arbor Low Stone Circle A Neolithic stone circle and earth mound dating back to 2500 BC. The reason for building this prehistoric monument remains a mystery. There is a £1 donation to visit. Long Rake, Monyash, Derbyshire DE45 1JS www.english-heritage.org.uk 18

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Nowadays the Wye Dale valley provides a beautiful and tranquil spot, and has a new cycle path, the Monsal Trail, which runs east to west beside the River Wye. If you have the time for a detour, or wanted a family friendly day ride with some river fun it’s well worth a spin. At Millers Dale there is the very nice Anglers Rest pub (with accommodation) and beyond that is Ravenstor YHA. In addition you can continue on the Monsal Trail, past Litton Mill, and

through Litton and Cressbrook tunnels (both lit during daytime hours) to the Water-Cum-Jolly Dale. This is home to the imposing Cressbrook Mill, where the ‘apprentices’ were treated much better than Litton Mill, and offers you the opportunity to swim wild in the River Wye. Further down the trail it passes over a wonderful viaduct, to Monsal Head, with a choice of accommodation and Hobb’s Café.

Other than the bleating from spring lambs, occasional rumblings from the quarries and cheery greetings from fellow trail users, the silent countryside is my constant companion… Litton Mill As a factory notorious for the harsh conditions endured by child workers as young as eight years old. Built in 1782 and finding it difficult to recruit locals, it turned to the ‘Guardians of the Poor’ who allowed orphans in their care to become indentured apprentices. Working 15 hours a day, Monday to Friday, and 16 hours on Saturdays, many of them were maimed or killed by the primitive machinery. 19

Hadfield Glossop

Kinder Scout

JACOB'S LADDER

Hayfield

Mam Tor

Hope Castleton

Peak Forest

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Wye Dale

Millers Dale Litton Mill

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Dark Peak: Section 2

Wye Dale Valley to Hadfield Distance via Roych Clough (main route): 39km Distance via Jacob’s Ladder challenge loop: 50km

The Dark Peak Back on the Great North Trail route, the tougher terrain of the Dark Peak is possibly more suited to experienced riders, although with the route starting up a steep and grassy hillside, most riders will be walking by the top. On the plus side, height is quickly gained, and the stunning views down the valley offer a valid respite, with a possibility of spotting climbers on the outcrops of rock to the east. Your reward will come at Wormhill, with a lovely stretch of singletrack trail snaking between dry stone walls, particularly beautiful in summer as you are wedged between the lush green fields, with their bright and colourful wild flowers lining the trail. The constantly changing trail keeps things interesting and the Pennine Bridleway signposting remains very good so keeping on the right track is simple. The fast, wide rocky decent before Peak Forest requires attention however, and as you enter the village you need to make a choice as the route splits.

Route Split – Roych Clough or Jacob’s Ladder challenge loop The main, more direct route continues to the west. On a weekend the No Car Café at Rushop Hall will be open and makes a nice place to stop for refreshments. There is

The Dark Peak has a great network of ancient roads and moorland trails that criss-cross it, providing lots of excellent, technical riding, which makes it well worth exploring further, especially for the more experienced rider. There are some great family-friendly tracks around the picturesque reservoirs too.

Jacob’s Ladder The Jacob’s Ladder loop then climbs the Mam Tor broken road and goes on to ‘the climb’ of Jacob’s Ladder for a steep, rough and unrelenting challenge, which only a very few riders can claim to have conquered. 21

Cycling UK The Beast and Cutthroat among others (see UK Breaks with Bikes: published by Rough Ride Guide for more details).

also an option to stop for dinner, bed and breakfast in the main house here. The route then continues along the Roych Clough which is a good but rough track and is simple to navigate. It offers good views, nice riding and leads straight to Hayfield, which makes another good stopover destination with a range of facilities.

The highest point in the Peak District – Kinder Scout at 636 metres – was the focus of a mass trespass in the 1932 held to bring attention to walkers being denied access to areas of the open countryside. It led to arrests and imprisonment, but nowadays this act of civil disobedience is often described as one of the most successful in British history, and may have led to the National Parks Legislation in 1949. Ironically this large flat expansive area atop Kinder Scout is a sterile, treacherous bog of a place, with overlaying millstone grit, so is not actually very appealing to have access to. However, Kinder Downfall is quite spectacular: the waterfall may be a mere trickle in the summer, but in winter it becomes a torrent of water with a 30-metre drop. Unfortunately, the Pennine Bridleway doesn’t go up over Kinder Scout and Kinder Downfall like the Pennine Way walking route.

Limestone Way Trail The alternative and more challenging route to Hayfield heads off in a north-easterly direction after Peak Forest, joining part of the Limestone Way trail, which descends to the lovely village of Castleton. Beware though: although the descent down to Castleton may offer beautiful and distracting views, the rocky trail is very challenging and should be ridden with great care. The village offers a great place to stop for the night, or just for some refreshments and supplies, with a wide range of good places to stay and eat. There are also some interesting off-the-bike activities, such as a visit to the spectacular Blue John Cavern or other impressive caves near Castleton. Or you could just ride some more, as there are lots of other great MTB trails in the area, especially around Ladybower Reservoir on trails such as Screaming Mile, 22

Sett Stones A sett, or block, is a rectangular quarried stone that was used to pave roads and walkways, particularly on steeper streets, as they provided better grip for the horses’ hooves.

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines As cycling along the edge of Kinder Scout and past Kinder Downfall is not allowed, the Pennine Bridleway drops down into the town of Hayfield, where the two options of the route rejoin. Hayfield makes a good stopover location, with a range of pubs, cafés, shops and accommodation, before you continue west along the Sett Valley Trail. Just 4km long, this shared use trail for pedestrians, horse riders and cyclists, links Hayfield to New Mills along the valley bottom on a converted railway line. You’re only on this lovely tree-lined trail for a short spin, leaving it behind at Birch Vale to head up the hillside of Lantern Pike. The steep sett track (see below for definition) is a daunting sight, and there will no doubt be an audience, so either dig deep or get ready to make your excuses. A clearing by some houses provides a welcome opportunity to recover your breath for a while as you soak in the stunning view behind you. The hill continues for a little while longer as you climb around the right-hand shoulder of Lantern Pike.

After picking up a cycle path around the outskirts of Glossop, it’s advisable to stock up on supplies at the shops in Hadfield, or treat yourself in the Old Bull’s Head pub in Tintwistle. Despite being so close to civilisation, there aren’t many options along the route for a little while. As you leave the Peak District behind you the route starts to twist and turn a lot more and there are multiple possible tracks. However, the Pennine Bridleway continues to be well signposted, so if you stay alert the navigation continues to be relatively simple, enabling steady progress. It also means you can continue to enjoy the views and take in the constantly changing surroundings, as you make your way northwards, winding between reservoirs and heading for West Yorkshire.

Mam Tor Mam Tor sits on the edge of the White and Dark Peak, offering amazing views of different and wonderful terrains. The name means ‘mother hill’, so named because frequent landslips have resulted in a multitude of ‘mini-hills’ beneath it. The A625 road on the eastern side has fallen away so many times that eventually in 1979 the battle to keep it maintained was abandoned and it is now left with several large drops. These can be hidden from view at times when riding uphill, so if riding the alternative loop, proceed with caution in this section. 23

Cycling UK As the trail heads north, it also gains height, skirting along the steep western sides of the moors, with wild, rugged and barren countryside to the right, and bustling Greater Manchester below to the left. You’re never far from civilisation on these good tracks, but it still feels nicely removed from the activity below. In this predominantly rural county you’ll find steep hillsides, challenging moorland, numerous reservoirs and an extensive rights of way network. Sadly, many of these many public rights of way are footpaths so are not open to cyclists, but some permissive bridle paths have been opened more

Blue John Cavern The Blue John Cavern is a world-famous destination, home to eight of the fourteen known varieties of the Blue John stone. This beautiful and ornamental fluorspar mineral has been mined here for centuries, and short guided tours are available, leading you through the huge and wonderful caverns. Castleton, Derbyshire S33 8WA www.bluejohn-cavern.co.uk 01433 620638 24

recently, improving access. There are also some fine examples of packhorse trails over the moorland, providing rideable trails despite the peaty soil which tends to become badly waterlogged in the winter months.

High above the village of Castleton you can see the ruins of Peveril Castle, one of England’s earliest Norman fortresses. Mentioned in the Domesday survey, the castle was built by Henry II in 1176.

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Nearby rides The Trans Pennine Trail is a 344km route which links the North and Irish seas, passing through the Pennines, following alongside rivers and canals through some of the most historic towns and cities in the North of England. There are also spurs off the main east-west route, going south to Chesterfield, north to Leeds and another to York.

Packhorse Trains Between the cotton towns of Lancashire and the woollen centres of Yorkshire lay difficult moorland crossings, so before the arrival of canals and trains, goods were carried on the backs of horses and ponies in large groups. These â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;packhorse trainsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, often consisting of around 30-40 horses, were led single file by a few men. The packhorse trains died out in the 1900s but many of the paths, especially higher up in the hills still survive. So do the iconic packhorse bridges; a simple, narrow construction, with low parapets so as not to impede the bags hanging from the horses. In the 1700s when land started to become enclosed, walls were built either side of these paved causeways in the hills above Todmorden. 25

Hardcastle Crags

Hebden Bridge Todmorden

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

South Pennines: Section 3

Hadfield to Hebden Bridge Distance: 56km

Mary Towneley Loop After wriggling your way around the many reservoirs which lie within these otherwise barren hills, it may be wise to pop into the Ram’s Head Inn at the A672 road crossing, before you venture into the far stretching moorland ahead of you. Alternatively, after passing under the tall flyover of the M62 motorway, you can skirt the edge of Rochdale, and Hollingworth Lake Country Park, where the Pavillion café offers a good range of food, drink and ice-cream. If you haven’t decided yet, it will also provide the time to consider which direction you want to take at the next route split coming up, when the route meets the Mary Towneley Loop. This 75km circular route forms part of the Pennine Bridleway and was opened in 2002. It was named in the memory of Lady Mary Towneley, who drew attention to the lack of long-distance bridleway routes for horse riders. The Great North Trail takes the east side of the loop, but you can ride either way around it. When the loop is ridden as a whole, it is often ridden in an anti-clockwise direction. The eastern section is shorter, and probably more importantly, has fewer gates too, (although it would probably be more accurate to describe it as the lesser of two evils in terms of gates).

Expect and plan for your average speed to drop through this section of the ride, as gradient, gates,

navigation and enjoying the views will have an impact on your progress. If you follow the east side of the loop, the route follows the edge of the Calder Valley above the town of Todmorden, offering stunning views along the steep-sided, lush green valley. There are some nice examples of the fabulous old packhorse trails along here too, worn smooth from all the years of use, which are a joy to ride. After passing through Mankinholes the route skirts beneath Stoodley Pike Monument, built to commemorate the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Although the original one fell down in 1854, the present one was built in 1856 and remains to this day. This landmark signals the start of the descent to the valley bottom, where the lovely traffic-free National 27

Cycling UK Cycle Network (NCN) route 66 links the two market towns of Todmorden and Hebden Bridge along the Rochdale Canal. Hebden Bridge offers a great stopover destination, with a selection of amenities and a very good bicycle shop. With good transport and rail links here as well, the river Calder marks the end of the first leg of the Great North Trail journey, but it also makes a nice place to spend some

optional additional time. Riding the NCN 66 cycle route which heads both east and west and is suitable for families after a little section along the road in either direction. These traffic-free trails are about the only flat, family trails in Calderdale, but there is a lot of superb, steep technical riding all along the valley.

Hardcastle Crags Kids will love exploring this magical wooded valley full of streams and waterfalls. Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire HX7 7AP www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hardcastle-crags 01422 846236

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Wild swim Gaddings Dam, an old reservoir is a popular local wild swimming spot, with a nearby pub. Grid ref: SD 948 225

Other riding Due to the very steep sided valleys and challenging moorland at the top, the riding is most suitable to experienced mountain bikers who want to test their skills on the steep, technical rocky trails, and their fitness and resolve across the moors. With plenty of this type of riding available in the valleys, it is one reason the popular Singletrack (MTB) magazine set up their offices in Todmorden. Other than the NCN trail, Centre Vale Park has a 1.6km, traffic-free circular loop for younger riders to develop their cycling skills on a mini road network, situated on the west side of the park.

A 9km (each way) family ride starts in the heart of Brighouse, following the Calder & Hebble Navigation to the outskirts of Sowerby Bridge, with just a few very short inclines at the lock gates and a short road section at Elland Bridge that can be walked if required. The route passes lots of wildlife, a nature reserve at Cromwell Bottom and several different locks. At Salterhebble Basin the canal, road, railway and river all pass over and under one other. At around 9km each way, there are options to divert off up the Hebble Trail to Halifax or continue into Sowerby Bridge town centre along the towpath, both of which have a train service back to Brighouse.

There is another flat family cycle ride with only very small climbs at the canal locks, from Hebden Bridge, along the NCN 66 (Calder Valley Cycleway), then returning along the Rochdale Canal tow path. www.cyclecalderdale.co.uk/files/docs/Upper_Valley_loop.pdf 29

Cycling UK

White Peak Directory Campsites Ballidon Moor Farm Brassington, Matlock DE4 4HP www.ballidonmoorfarm.co.uk 01629 540671 Middlehills Farm Grangemill, Matlock DE4 4HY www.campingandcaravanningmatlock.com 01629 650368

B&Bs Old House Farm Cottages Newhaven, Hartington SK17 0DY www.oldhousefarm.com 01629 636268 Arbor Low B&B Monyash, DE45 1JS www.arborlow.co.uk 01629 636337

Newhaven Holiday Park Buxton SK17 0DT www.newhavenholidaypark.co.uk 01298 84300

Fernydale Farm B&B Earl Sterndale, Buxton SK17 0BS www.fernydalefarmbandb.co.uk 01298 83236

Lathkill Dale Campsite Monyash, Bakewell DE45 1JH www.lathkilldalecampsite.co.uk 07971 038702

Refreshments

Knotlow Farm Flagg, near Buxton, SK179QP www.knotlowfarm.co.uk 01298 85313 Pomeroy Caravan and Camping Park Pomeroy, near Buxton SK17 9QG www.pomeroycaravanpark.co.uk 01298 83259 Beech Croft Farm Blackwell in the Peak, Taddington, near Buxton SK17 9TQ www.beechcroftfarm.co.uk 01298 85330

Hostels & Self Catering Mount Cook Adventure Centre Middleton-By-Wirksworth DE4 4LS www.mountcook.uk 01629 823 702 YHA Hartington Hall Hartington SK17 0AT www.yha.org.uk 0345 371 9740 YHA Sheen Bunkhouse Sheen SK17 0ES www.yha.org.uk 01298 84501 YHA Youlgreave Youlgreave, near Bakewell DE45 1UR www.yha.org.uk 0345 371 9151 The Royal Oak Bunkhouse Hurdlow, near Buxton SK17 9QJ www.peakpub.co.uk 01298 83288 YHA Ravenstor Miller’s Dale, Buxton SK17 8SS www.yha.org.uk 0345 371 9655

Middleton Top Visitor Centre Café Middleton DE4 4LS www.derbyshire.gov.uk 01629 533294 Jug and Glass Inn Lea, Matlock DE4 5GJ www.jugandglass.co.uk 01629 534232 Parsley Hay Cycle Hire and Café Parsley Hay, Buxton SK17 0DG www.peakdistrict.gov.uk 01298 84888 The Royal Oak Hurdlow, Buxton SK17 9QJ www.peakpub.co.uk 01298 83288 Anglers Rest Millers Dale, Buxton SK17 8SN www.anglersrestmillersdale.co.uk 01298 871323

Bike Shops Middleton Top Cycle Hire Middleton by Wirksworth DE4 4LS www.derbyshire.gov.uk 01629 533298 Parsley Hay Cycle Hire Monyash SK17 ODG www.peakdistrict.gov.uk 01298 84493 Blackwell Mill Cycle Hire Blackwell, near Buxton SK17 9TE www.peakblackwellcyclehire.com 01298 70838 Peak Ascent Cycles Buxton SK17 6EU www.peakascentcycles.co.uk 01298 299011

Railway Stations Cromford or Buxton

Part 1: Peak District & South Pennines

Dark Peak Directory Campsites Fieldhead Campsite Edale S33 7ZA www.fieldhead-campsite.co.uk 01433 670386 Hayfield Campsite Hayfield SK22 2LE www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk 01663 745394 Crowden Camping and Caravanning Club Site Crowden, Glossop SK13 1HZ www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk 01457 866057

Hostels & Self Catering YHA Castleton Losehill Hall Castleton S33 8WB www.yha.org.uk 0345 371 9628 Woodlands Self-Catered Barn Glossop SK13 5DP www.woodlandshighpeak.co.uk 01457 866 568

B&Bs Rushop Hall B&B Rushup SK23 0QT www.rushophall.com 01298 813323 Thorndene B&B Hope S33 6RU www.thorndenepeakdistrict.co.uk 01433 623743 The Kinder Lodge Hayfield SK22 2JG www.kinder-lodge.co.uk 01663 743613 The George Hotel Hayfield SK22 2JE www.georgehotelhayfield.co.uk 01663 743691 The Waltzing Weasel B&B Near Hayfield SK22 1BT 01663 743402 White House Farm B&B Padfield, Glossop SK13 1ET www.whitehousefarmpadfield.co.uk 01457 854695

The Waggon Inn Oldham OL3 6HR www.thewaggoninn.co.uk 01457 879106

Refreshments The No Car Café Rushop Hall, Chapel-en-le-Frith SK23 0QT www.thenocarcafe.com 01298 816218 The Sportsman Inn Hayfield SK22 2LE www.thesportsmaninn.co.uk 01663 741565 Lymefield Garden Centre Tea Room Lymefield, Hyde SK14 6AG www.lymefield.com 01457 764686 Bull’s Head Tintwistle, Glossop SK13 1JY 01457 853365

Bike Shops 18 Bikes Hope S33 6RD www.18bikes.co.uk 01433 621111 High Peak Cycles Glossop SK13 8DD www.highpeakcycles.co.uk 01457 861535 Alphin Cycles Mossley, Ashton-under-Lyne OL5 9RR www.alphincycles.co.uk 07783 607031

Railway Stations Dove Holes Chapel-en-le-Frith Hope Glossop Hadfield Mossley Greenfield

Cycling UK

South Pennines Directory Campsites

Refreshments

Piethorne Valley Camping Newhey, Rochdale OL16 3TA www.piethorne-valley-camping.co.uk 01706 840978

The Diggle Hotel Diggle, Oldham OL3 5JZ www.digglehotel.co.uk 01457 872741

Hollingworth Lake Camping and Caravan Park Rakewood, Littleborough OL15 0AS www.hollingworthlakecaravanpark.com 01706 378661

Hostels & Self Catering YHA Mankinholes Todmorden OL14 6HR www.yha.org.uk 0345 371 9751 Hebden Bridge Hostel Hebden Bridge HX7 8DG www.hebdenbridgehostel.co.uk 01422 843183

B&Bs The Gate Inn Oldham OL3 5PQ www.thegateinn.co.uk 01457 879100 Sunfield Guest House Diggle OL3 5LA www.sunfieldaccom.co.uk 01457 874030 Cherry Clough Farm B&B Saddleworth, Oldham OL3 5UE 01457 874369 The Moorcock Inn Littleborough OL15 0LD www.themoorcockinn.co.uk 01706 378156 Knowl Lodge Cragg Vale, near Hebden Bridge HX7 5TB 020 3564 5165 Magic Number B&B Hebden Bridge HX7 6HE www.magicnumberbedandbreakfast.com 07866 656779 Fox and Goose Inn Hebden Bridge HX7 6AZ www.foxandgoose.org 01422 648052

Hollingworth Lake Visitor Centre Littleborough OL15 0AZ 01706 373421 The Wine Press Littleborough OL15 0AZ www.sanrocco.co.uk 01706 378168 The Summit Inn Littleborough OL15 9QX 01706 379500 Waterfall Tea Room Littleborough OL15 9LZ 01706 378877 The Border Rose Inn Walsden, Todmorden OL14 7UA 01706 812142 Shepherds Rest Inn Todmorden OL14 6JJ www.shepherdsrestinn.co.uk 01706 813437 Top Brink Inn Brink Top, Todmorden OL14 6JB www.topbrink.com 01706 812696 Stubbing Wharf Hebden Bridge HX7 6LU www.stubbing.co.uk 01422 844107

Bike Shops The Ride Stuff Rochdale OL15 9BB www.the-ride-stuff.co.uk 01706 376277 Cycle Factory Todmorden OL14 5QY www.cyclefactory.co.uk 01706 815844 Blazing Saddles Hebden Bridge HX7 8UQ www.blazingsaddles.co.uk 01422 844435

Railway Stations Smithy Bridge Littleborough Walsden Hebden Bridge

Yorkshire Dales PART TWO

Appleby-in-Westmorland

Kirkby Stephen

Hawes

Horton in Ribblesdale

Clapham Settle

Malham

Barnoldswick

0 0

10 Miles

Hebden Bridge

20 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire Dales: Route Overview

Hebden Bridge to Appleby-inWestmorland Distance: 171km Ascent: 4,011m

Area introduction and route summary Starting at the bottom of the steep sided Calder Valley is a tough way to start this ride, but you are soon high up on the hills enjoying the stunning views. After turning this way and that, through various gates, steep inclines and fast declines, you eventually leave the lush green valley behind and break out onto bleak and barren moorland. The raw beauty provides a certain unavoidable sense of adventure. The two sides of the Mary Towneley trail soon re-meet and you continue northwards on the Pennine Bridleway, across the hills to the quaint village of Wycoller in Lancashire. It becomes flatter as you cross the Ribble Valley (although the numerous gates and grassy terrain still restrict fast progress) but before long you are in the stunning limestone landscape of the Yorkshire Dales.

This is England’s largest county and third largest National Park in the UK, covering 2,179km2 and often referred to as “God’s Own Country”. The majority of the Dales are in Yorkshire, apart from the north-west where they dip into Cumbria, and they offer a vast, open and remote space to explore. Made up of 35

Cycling UK

limestone, sandstone, and millstone grit, the lifting, folding and glacial movements over millions of years have produced incredible scenic cliffs, crags, scars and limestone pavements. The fells are further dissected by deep valleys or dales, with lush farmland and woodlands that provide some beautiful sheltered and serene, sunken valleys in the stark and barren moorland. The trail continues northwards through the sparsely populated landscape, passing between walled lanes, crossing lush green fields, passing old quarries and with panoramic views of the limestone pavements. After descending to the edge of Hawes, and passing close to the waterfall of Cotter Force, the route joins the Mallerstang Valley, along the river Eden. 36

The Pennine Bridleway actually crosses the valley and heads up the steep, lumpy hillside of Wild Boar Fell, but a much more pleasant alternative follows the riverside, passing Kirkby Stephen, before wiggling and winding its way along quiet back roads and fields until arriving at Appleby-inWestmorland, and the end of this second leg of the Great North Trail.

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Best for Wild moorland crossings. Fantastic scenery with geological wonders, such as limestone pavements, waterfalls and caves. Historical interest and visiting feats of engineering.

Navigation The start of this section follows the well sign-posted Pennine Bridleway (PB) trail, so navigation is straight forward. Around the Barnoldswick area the signage becomes sparser and harder to spot, especially on field crossings, so look out for the faint tracks and gates on the far side. Things start to become clearer, less wiggly and better signed once again around Settle. If you opt to drop to Hawes, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll leave the PB for a while, so navigation is down to you, but it is fairly straight forward. After following the valley up to Kirkby Stephen, you need to pay good attention to the route as it zigzags on and off road and through fields until arriving at Appleby-in-Westmorland to finish.

Difficulty rating Calderdale to Mallerstang Valley Red grade all the way from the start in Calderdale to where it leaves the PB in the Mallerstang Valley (due to the remote setting and steep, rough terrain). Mallerstang Valley to Appleby-in-Westmorland After here, to the end at Appleby, it is grade Blue as the trails are not as rough, lower down and not as steep.

Craven Lime Works Jubilee Cave

Malham Cove

Settle Scaleber Force (Waterfall)

Victoria Cave

Malham

Goredale Scar Janet's Foss (Waterfall)

Long Preston

Barnoldswick

Wycoller Country Park The Atom Panopticon

Hardcastle Crags

0 0

5 Miles 10 Kilometres

Hebden Bridge

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Ribblesdale: Section 1

Hebden Bridge to Settle Distance: 67km

Calder Valley Heading out of the steep northern side of the Calder Valley, a good, wide track allows the first section of the route to be tackled with relative ease. Afterwards the route becomes a narrower dirt track and then a narrow sett path, with annoying all-tooregular ridges built into the trail. These ridges attempt to steal any momentum and rhythm you may have, but some stunning views soon open up behind you, so you have another reason to stop and revel in the significant height gain you will have already achieved. The solid sett trail is a blessing though, even if you are relegated to pedestrian mode. Further bumpy packhorse trails lead you out of the lush green valley and eventually onto the barren brown moorlands, with far reaching views and a desolate beauty of their own. Stay alert on trails close to hand though, as the Great North Trail leaves the Mary Towneley trail here to continue northbound, along the Pennine Bridleway.

Brontë Way Trail The route continues to tackle some steep inclines and declines, and joins with the Brontë Way trail. This trail runs for 69km, passing a number of places of inspiration to the Brontë sisters and their enthusiasts, such as Wycoller Country Park. This must be one of the prettiest country parks in Lancashire, on which a newly surfaced path drops you quickly – if the coast is clear – down to the lovely peaceful village of Wycoller.

Wycoller Country Park One of the prettiest country parks in Lancashire. The Brontë sisters mentioned nearby landmarks in their novels. www.lancashire.gov.uk/leisureand-culture/country-parks-and-naturereserves/wycoller-country-park

Cycling UK From the Anglo Saxon ‘Wic-Alr’ (meaning dairy farm among the alder trees) this village went into decline with the invention of the power loom. The inhabitants, sheep farmers and weavers, moved away, but it is slowly being brought back to life. Wycoller Beck has seven bridges over it, from simple single slabs to the lovely late 18th/early 19th century Clapper Bridge,

Take care! If you decide to ignore the bridge and pedal through the ford at Wycoller, take care as it is extremely slippery and you may well find yourself taking an early dip!

where the grooves worn into it by the weavers’ clogs were chiselled out by a farmer whose daughter fell and was fatally injured on the bridge. In the 1890s there were plans to create a reservoir by damming Wycoller Beck, but it survived and in 1973 Lancashire County Council bought the land. The village and surrounding countryside were designated a country park soon after.

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales Allow yourself some time to experience this unique place, or even stay at the B&B and enjoy a day off the bike, as there are some picturesque walks to local beauty spots, such as Bank House and Wycoller Beck to enjoy. At the very least, visit the Wycoller Café and Craft Centre, whose lovely proprietors serve up good meals at reasonable prices. You’ll require the energy and will appreciate the rest for the next section of the route coming up if nothing else. The route – both the Pennine Bridleway and the Great North Trail – continues along footpaths recently upgraded to bridleways, but some parts are grassy and hard going.

Route signage is not so clear along this section, and your eyes are also drawn to navigating between the copious sheep droppings as you cross grassy fields, making the route finding even trickier as you chop and change direction for a while.

Malham Tarn Nationally important, this glacial lake is one of only eight alkaline lakes in Europe and, at 377m above sea level, the highest marl (lime-rich mud or mudstone) lake in the UK. www.yorkshiredales.org.uk/ visit-the-dales/discover-the-dales/ water-features/malham-tarn

The same gate salesman from Calderdale must have worked this patch too, with gates, sometimes two, installed at every field, which means your average speed will drop whilst navigating this section. After finding your way around High Scale farm on a faint grassy track to the left of the farmyard, the Pennine Bridleway finally reaches Long Preston in North Yorkshire, where the trails start to improve in firmness and ease of navigation. You are also now met with views of the mighty uplift of the Craven Fault. This limestone dislocation stretches from Upper Wharfdale to Kirby Lonsdale, providing spectacular cliff scenery, with craggy peaks, limestone 41

Cycling UK scars and stunning views. As you may have guessed, this also means big climbs are inevitable along the way and there is very little flat land. But with big climbs come big descents. Each valley or ‘dale’ has its own character, but most share the same features of rolling hills that are largely used for sheep farming with stone barns and dwellings built from the local rock. The lower land is often lush green fields and hay meadows, divided up by drystone walls, with spectacular waterfalls, woodland and remains of former mine workings. The expansive heather moorland tops however, remain open and wild.

Long Preston village Long Preston village provides a good refreshment stop, or even a stopover destination (although it isn’t far to the nice town of Settle, which offers a greater

choice of facilities). You have to climb out of Long Preston first, but tarmac, good tracks and simple navigation make this relatively easy. You will then need to decide if you want to ride the optional ‘Settle Loop’ route. This was the first section of the Pennine Bridleway to be opened in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and provides an additional 16km to the ride. However, it also provides some stunning limestone scenery and views of the nationally important Malham Tarn. This glacial lake is one of only eight alkaline lakes in Europe, and at 377m above sea level, is the highest marl (lime-rich mud or mudstone) lake in the UK. Whatever you choose, visiting the lovely town of Settle and enjoying the great facilities, whether it’s to sample one of the many coffee shops, cafés, pubs or restaurants, or stay the night, makes for a recommended stop.

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire Dales National Park The Yorkshire Dales National Park covers most of the Yorkshire Dales, with the majority in North Yorkshire. There’s also a sizeable area in Cumbria and a small part in Lancashire. The park was designated in 1954, and was extended in 2016, and provides a huge network of over 900km of bridleways, byways and green lanes.

Many trails have a history as well as providing good riding, being a mixture of Roman roads, monastic highways, mining tracks and drovers’ roads. There’s something to suit everyone, from hard stone trails to moorland singletrack. The trails are generally easy to navigate, not too technical, but with leg-testing climbs and fun fuelled descents. 43

Cotter Force Waterfall

Hawes

Arten Gill Viaduct

Ribblehead Viaduct Ribblehead Railway Museum

Hull Pot

Gaping Gill Ingleborough Cave

Clapham

Catrigg Force Waterfall

Austwick

Jubilee Cave

Craven Lime Works Victoria Cave

3 Miles Settle

5 Kilometres

SETTLE LOOP

Malham Tar

Goreda Malham Scar Cove

Malham Janet

Scaleber Force Waterfall

Foss

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrels

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Settle Loop: Section 2

Settle to Hawes Distance: 50km Distance via Settle Loop: 66km

The Settle Loop The Settle Loop climbs out into the Yorkshire Dales National Park and traverses limestone upland. The route soon leaves the back country lanes onto a rocky track, climbing stiffly up into the limestone outcrops. The climbing requires some effort, but the track improves and smooths out, with a mix of gravel, grass and rocky tracks. Not much of a technical challenge, and with easy navigation, you can enjoy the stunning views. Jubilee Cave is along the route as you re-approach Settle, as is Victoria Cave, just off the route along a footpath. Victoria Cave has the largest cave entrance in Yorkshire, at 9m tall and 12m wide, while Jubilee Cave has two smaller entrances. Extend it: Just beyond the most eastern point of the loop is Malham Cove, formed by a waterfall carrying meltwater from glaciers at the end of the last Ice Age around 12,000 years ago. This superb example of a limestone pavement is thought by some to have inspired JRR Tolkien’s fort of Helm’s Deep in Lord of the Rings, and was also used as a film set for Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. This curved crag of carboniferous limestone, with massive slabs of rock and deep horizontal fissures (the result of acidic rain on the soft limestone) is a well-known beauty spot. Back on the main route, rather than heading straight up the valley beside the River Ribble, the Great North Trail route heads

Limestone Pavement A limestone pavement is a flat expanse of exposed limestone formed by a combination of chemical weathering and erosion, where many of these landforms have developed distinctive surface patterning resembling paving blocks. 45

Cycling UK west, deep into a land of limestone pavements, stunning scenery, numerous caves and waterfalls. Shortly after leaving Settle, Catrigg Force is a waterfall and pool surrounded by towering rocks within a woodland, providing an enchanting place for a wild swim (grid ref: SD 832/671). With a good campsite and The Knights Table café and tearoom nearby, it also makes a nice place to have a rest before the route continues to wriggle its way westwards. The route now starts to pass by the many quarries and limestone scars – don’t expect to travel through this section particularly quickly. Regular gradient and

directional changes will delay you as well as the interesting surroundings and engaging trails. A fun descent drops you down off the hillside of the south Craven Fault and delivers you to the hamlet of Feizor, where the tea rooms may well further slow your progress. Continue along a nice walled singletrack trail, to the town of Austwick, with a wide range of facilities, including accommodation, or even to Clapham – a jewel of a place – just off the route, which you’ll pass through dark tunnels to arrive at. A stopover here would also allow you to visit the wonderful Ingleborough Cave and Gaping Gill.

The land of caves, waterfalls and gills These hills are the land of caves, waterfalls and gills, with so many options it’s hard to know where to look. One of the most famous is Gaping Gill and Ingleborough Cave, where Fell Beck pours over a lip of rock, falling 98m, making it the highest unbroken waterfall in England. The water falls into a deep pothole and through one of the largest known underground chambers in Britain resurging by Ingleborough Cave. It is only accessible by footpath though, so you’ll have to head there on foot from Clapham, past Ingleborough Cave and up on to the slopes of Ingleborough to Gaping Gill. With so many gills and waterfalls there are numerous opportunities for wild swimming. Try Ling Gill bridge which with its small weirs creates some pleasant paddling pools to cool down in. (grid ref: SD 803/789) 46

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales Heading north once more, a rocky and grassy climb leads you along Long Scar. Pop your head over the drystone wall to your right, to take in the huge view of Crummack Dale, surrounded by the limestone scars. It’s also worth wandering slightly off the route a little further up to the left, to see the limestone pavement up close and personal before you leave this incredible geology behind. The route drops to cross the River Ribble once more, and after climbing back up the far side of the dale, there’s another wild swimming opportunity (for the experienced only) in the subterranean river at Birkwith Cave (grid ref: SD 804/770).

To the west of Cam Fell around Gearstones, down by the B6255 road, there are a number of caves and gorges, offering the chance to explore and bathe. Thorns Gill Bridge at Gayle Beck, Katnot Cave, or Holme Hill Cave are all great, and the Ribblehead Viaduct is also just down the road, where there is also The Station Inn barn and campsite.

Craven Lime Works At Craven Lime Works, south of Stainforth, SD 824/993, you can explore a massive 128m oval lime kiln with 22 chambers which were filled, fired and emptied in turn to burn limestone. Built in 1873 and invented by Friedrich Hoffmann, it is one of the largest ‘Hoffmann kilns’.

Cycling UK

The route continues to climb and descend some big long hills, starting with a climb up Cam Fell, providing more stunning and panoramic views of the barren countryside.

The countryside starts to become bigger and bleaker and at the top of Cam Fell you have the option to bear west via Dent Fell where the route splits. The grassy descent this way, across Gayle Moor, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t look too promising to start, but it soon becomes a better track, and provides a great, long descent off the hill. This is met with another climb however when you arrive at Dent Fell. With the option to go down to see the

Ribblehead Viaduct A few kilometres off the route, but also the most impressive structure on the Settle-Carlisle Railway, and worth a visit if you have the time, energy and interest. Hundreds of railway builders lost their lives building this line, and in particular while building the Ribblehead (then Batty Moss) Viaduct. So much so that the railway paid for an expansion of the local graveyard. Twenty-four of these huge stone arches still stand proud, some 32m high. 48

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales viaduct, you’ll either want to be staying at the Sportsman’s Inn at the bottom of Cow Dub, or be in much need of their refreshments. On a nice day the rocky, babbling stream beside the road is also very enticing, but the climb back up the hillside is a tough one, so if you don’t need to drop down, you can see the viaduct pretty well from the top here anyway. The trail stays high to skirt around the edge

of Great Knoutberry Hill (also commonly known as Widdale Fell), which continues to provide wonderful views (as far as the Lake District on a clear day) without any extra climbing. At the bottom of the dale, Garsdale Railway Station and the Moorcock Inn awaits you, offering somewhere to stay and eat, and even an escape route home if required.

Arten Gill Viaduct Built between 1871 and 1875 from blocks of locally quarried Dent Marble, this viaduct is a magnificent example of 19th Century engineering. Its 11 arches carry the Settle-Carlisle railway line 36m above the ground.

Appleby-in-Westmorland

Brough castle

Kirkby Stephen

Wharton Hall

Lammerstang Castle

Pendragon Castle

Hell Gill Beck

Cotter Force Waterfall

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Hawes

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Mallerstang Valley: Section 3

Hawes to Appleby-inWestmorland Distance: 47km

Hawes The long, fast and more direct descent towards the town of Hawes makes for quicker progress, as well as offering a good range of facilities in town if required, as well as taking you via the wonderful Cotter Force waterfall. The waterfall, just off the route, offers tiered rock slabs with water flowing down to deep pools, perfect for plunging into (grid ref: SD 848/920). After this it’s a tough climb back up onto the moors, but ‘The Pennine Journey’ track levels out and becomes a nice undulating track along the side of the hill and all is forgiven. Along here are some sinkholes (or ‘shake holes’ as they are known in Yorkshire) that are left when boulder clay is washed into fissures in the underlying limestone, and are particularly common to this area. At Hell Gill there is a deep, almost enclosed cavern with impressive rocks, with a dark waterfall and deep plunge pool. It is tricky to climb, so experienced people only will be interested in this unusual dip (grid ref: SD 787/969). You also need to take care when riding along here too, as slippery stone slabs, water bars and the sudden narrowing of trails over hidden brows can easily catch you out, especially while you’re enjoying the views and daydreaming about converting the old derelict buildings along here.

Ash Gill Force, just off the route, is a stunning waterfall, which is in full glory in autumn or winter, hurling millions of tonnes of peat-brown water over its crest, while in the summer you can walk behind the sheet of water more easily. 51

Cycling UK

The trail now drops down into the valley bottom, where the Pennine Bridleway heads south briefly, before scaling Little Fell and dropping to finish at the A683 road. However, the Great North Trail stays in the Mallerstang Valley, past the remains of the Pendragon Castle, where secret pools in the river downstream make for a lovely celebratory splash. The Pennine Journey bridleway may stay down in the valley, but it’s a hard, grassy ride through the fields, with no clear trail and millions of sheep droppings to avoid, or splatter your bike and body with if you fail to do so. Instead the route goes up the side of the hill, the ruins of Lammerside Castle, a peel tower and small castle built in the 14th century. There are cellars beneath to explore, and Wharton Hall, an impressive 14th century tower house, built from local limestone. Arriving in Kirkby Stephen, you cross Stenkrith Bridge.

If you have the time (and good weather) it’s worth exploring upstream to find the sculpted pools and eddy holes in the limestone bedrock with small but deep canyon and waterfalls. 52

Otherwise it’s mostly easy spinning along country back roads and byways, with no significant gradients or navigational issues other than some field crossings along the way as the route runs parallel to the River Eden. You could duck off to visit Brough Castle, in Church Brough, just south of Brough on the A66, around 3km off the route. This impressive castle on the site of an old Roman fort was frequently the target of Scots raids, and dates from about 1200. It’s free entry and has a very good ice-cream parlour. Otherwise it’s an easy and welcome finish to the epic crossing, which delivers you to the pretty town of Appleby-in-Westmorland, with good facilities, including a train station, making it not only a good stopover destination, but a lovely end to this section of the Great North Trail.

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

Eden Valley Today the Eden Valley is green, fertile and peaceful, but in medieval times it was vulnerable to Scottish raids and the reason for a number of peel (or ‘pele’) towers being built around here and along the English and Scottish borders. Keep a look out for these fortified keeps, which were built with defence a prime consideration of their design, although confirmation of status and prestige also played its role. The River Eden’s source is in the Mallerstang Valley, and is entirely in Cumbria, making it one of the few large rivers in England that flows northwards. For much of its course, the river is accompanied by the famous Settle to Carlisle Railway.

A spectacularly scenic route, this line survived threats of closure in the 1960s and was saved again from extinction by the efforts of local enthusiasts and local authorities in the 1980s. The railway is a perfect means for accessing the Eden Valley, with stations at Appleby and Kirkby Stephen. The River Eden, as well as being home to some of the finest salmon and trout fishing in the North of England, is home to the Eden Benchmarks, ten intriguing sculptures, which also act as seats, such as ‘Water Cut’ by Mary Bourne in Mallerstang on our route. www.edenbenchmarks.org.uk

Cycling UK

Yorkshire Dales Directory Campsites

Hostels & Self Catering

Hebden Bridge Campsite Colden, Hebden Bridge HX7 7HT www.hebdenbridge-camping.co.uk 01422 844628

Hebden Bridge Hostel Hebden Bridge HX7 8DG www.hebdenbridgehostel.co.uk 01422 843183

Bridge Holme Caravan Site Greenberfield Ln, Barnoldswick BB18 5LJ www.bridgeholmecaravansite.co.uk 07813 779801

Pack Horse Stables Self-Catering Cottage Hebden Bridge HX7 7HX www.packhorsestables.co.uk 07530 222426

The Dalesbridge Campsite and Cabins The Dalesbridge Campsite and Cabins, Austwick, Lancaster LA2 8AZ www.dalesbridge.co.uk 01524 251021

YHA Malham Pennine Way, Malham, Skipton BD23 4DB www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-malham?utm_ source=google&utm_medium=maps&utm_ campaign=google-places 0345 371 9529

Silloth House Campsite Silloth House, Austwick, Lancaster LA2 8DH www.silloth-house.co.uk 07854 368832 Philpin Farm Campsite Philpin Ln, Carnforth www.pitchup.com/campsites/England/ North_East/North_Yorkshire/Ingleton/philpin-farm 01524 241846

Hill Top Farm Bunkbarn Back Ln, Malham, Skipton BD23 4DJ www.hilltopmalham.co.uk 3 Peaks Bunkroom Horton in Ribblesdale, Settle BD24 0HB www.3peaksbunkroom.co.uk 01729 860380

Bainbridge Ings Caravan & Campsite Hawes DL8 3NU www.bainbridge-ings-countrypark.co.uk 01969 667354

YHA Hawes Lancaster Terrace, Turfy Hill, Hawes DL8 3LQ www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-malham and www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-hawes 0345 371 9120

The Old Hall Cottage Campsite Hardraw, Hawes DL8 3LZ www.oldhallcottagecampsite.co.uk 01969 667691

The Byre Kirkby Stephen CA17 4HQ www.smardalebyre.co.uk 01768 371198

Bowber Head Camping Site Ravenstonedale, Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria CA17 4NL 01539 623254

Kirkby Stephen Hostel Market St, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4QQ www.kirkbystephenhostel.co.uk 01768 371793

Low Greenside Farm Camping and Glamping Greenside Ln, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4LU www.lowgreensidefarmcampsite.co.uk 01539 623217 Pennine View Park Station Road, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4SZ www.pennineviewpark.co.uk 01768 371717 Alanholme Campsite Long Marton, Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6BN www.alanholme.co.uk 01768 361628

Part 2: Yorkshire Dales

B&Bs Magic Number B&B Hebden Bridge HX7 6HE www.magicnumberbedandbreakfast.com 07866 656779 Fox and Goose Inn Hebden Bridge HX7 6AZ www.foxandgoose.org 01422 648052 Pack Horse Inn Widdop, Hebden Bridge HX7 7AT www.thepackhorseinn.pub 01422 842803 The Guest House Worsthorne Worsthorne, Burnley BB10 3NH www.theguesthouseworsthorne.com 07779 270398 Oaklands B&B Colne BB8 8SY www.oaklandsbbandholidaycottage.com 01282 865893 Grange Fell Bed and Breakfast Skipton Road, Earby, Barnoldswick, Lancashire, BB18 6JL www.grangefell.com/contact.html#.XU05iG9KiUk 01282 844991 Foxhill Barn B&B Howgill Ln, Gisburn, Clitheroe BB7 4JL www.foxhillbarn.co.uk 01200 415906 The Barn B&B 8 Main Street, Long Preston, North Yorkshire, BD23 4ND www.thebarnlongpreston.co.uk 01729 840426 Maypole Inn Main St, Long Preston, Skipton BD23 4PH www.maypoleinnlongpreston.co.uk 01729 841066

The Station Inn Ribblehead, Low Sleights Road, Carnforth LA6 3AS www.thestationinnribblehead.com 015242 41274 Sportsmans Inn Rochdale Road, Greetland, Halifax HX4 8PL www.sportsmansinngreetland.co.uk 01422 373725 Crosby House Bed And Breakfast Burtersett Road, Hawes DL8 3NP www.crosbyhousehawes.co.uk 01969 667322 The Moorcock Inn Garsdale Head, Sedbergh LA10 5PU www.moorcockinn.com 01969 667488 Fat Lamb Country Inn Crossbank, Ravenstonedale, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4LL www.fatlamb.co.uk 015396 23242 Hutton Lodge Bed and Breakfast Dumfries DG1 4RP www.huttonlodge.co.uk 01387 770216 The Hollies Roman Road, Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6JH www.theholliesappleby.co.uk 017683 52553

Refreshments Stubbing Wharf Hebden Bridge HX7 6LU www.stubbing.co.uk 01422 844107 The Diggle Hotel Station Houses, Diggle, Oldham OL3 5JZ 01457 872741

Scar Close Farmhouse Feizor, Austwick, Settle LA2 8DF www.settlebedandbreakfast.com 01729 823496

New Delight Inn Blackshaw Head, Hebden Bridge HX7 7HT www.newdelightinn.co.uk 01422 844628

The Dalesbridge Lodge B&B The Dalesbridge Lodge B&B, Austwick, Lancaster LA2 8AZ www.dalesbridge.co.uk 015242 51021

Pack Horse Inn Widdop, Hebden Bridge HX7 7AT www.thepackhorseinn.pub 01422 842803

Cycling UK

Refreshments (cont)

Bike Shops

Wycoller Craft Centre Wycoller Road, Wycoller, Colne BB8 8SY www.wycollercraftcentre.co.uk 01282 868395

Cycle Factory Todmorden OL14 5QY www.cyclefactory.co.uk 01706 815844

Emmott Arms 28 Keighley Road, Colne BB8 7HU www.emmottarms.co.uk 01282 864889

Blazing Saddles Hebden Bridge HX7 8UQ www.blazingsaddles.co.uk 01422 844435

Reading Room Café Bar and Clapham Bunkhouse The Old Manor House, Church Ave, Clapham LA2 8EQ www.claphambunk.com 01524 251144

Burnley Cycle Centre Burnley BB10 1XB www.burnleycyclecentre.co.uk 01282 433981

Clapham Village Store Clapham LA2 8DP www.claphamvillagestore.co.uk 01524 251524 Blindbeck Holiday Cottage and Tearoom Blindbeck Holiday Cottage, Settle BD24 0HT www.blindbeck.co.uk 01729 860396 Pen-Y-Ghent Café Penyghent View, Horton in Ribblesdale, Settle, BD24 0HE Stone Close Tea Room and B&B Main St, Dent, Sedbergh LA10 5QL www.stoneclose.com 015396 25231 Stage 1 Cycles Café Station Yard Burtesette Road, Hawes DL8 3NT www.stage1cycles.co.uk 01969 666873 Herriots Guest House Main St, Hawes DL8 3QW www.herriotsinhawes.co.uk 01969 667536 The Moorcock Inn Garsdale Head, Sedbergh LA10 5PU www.moorcockinn.com 01969 667488 The Pink Geranium Café 40 Market St, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4QW 017683 71586

On Yer Bike Cycles Burnley BB11 1AT www.onyerbike.com 01282 438855 3 Peaks Cycles | Bike Shop & Café 24 Market Pl, Settle BD24 9EJ www.3peakscycles.com 01729 824232 Escape Bike Shop Kirksteads, Westhouse, Ingleton, Lancaster LA6 3NJ www.escapebikeshop.com 015242 41226 Stage 1 Cycles Station Yard Burtesette Road, Hawes DL8 3NT www.stage1cycles.co.uk 01969 666873 Coast to Coast Cycles Upper Visitors Centre, Kirkby Stephen CA17 4QN www.coasttocoastcycles.co.uk 017683 71776

Railway Stations Hebden Bridge Colne Long Preston Settle Horton-in-Ribblesdale Ribblehead Dent Garsdale Kirkby Stephen

North Pennines & Northumberland PART THREE

Kielder

Kielder Castle

Kielder Observatory

Housesteads Roman Fort Vindolanda

Thirlwall Castle

Haltwhistle

The Sill

NORTH PENNINES AONB

Epiacum Roman Fort South Tynedale Railway

Alston Nenthead Mines

Ashgill Force (Waterfall)

Killhope Lead Mining Museum

High Cup Nick

0 0

5 Miles 10 Kilometres

Appleby Castle

Appleby-in-Westmorland

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyre

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

North Pennines & Northumberland: Route Overview

Appleby-inWestmorland to Kielder Forest Distance: 123km Ascent: 2,350m

Area introduction and route summary The third stage of this Great North Trail takes you on an ambitious crossing of the North Pennines, the northernmost section of the Pennine range of hills which runs north to south in Cumbria. In 1988 it became a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and is now the second largest in England. Its 2,000km2 of heather moors and peatland are home to many attractive dales, upland rivers, meadows and woodland, not to mention a vast array of wildlife.

A whopping 80% of Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s black grouse population live on the North Pennine moorland, so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised to virtually bump into these sedentary species across the moors. Starting at the market village of Appleby-inWestmorland, the route crosses Great Dun Fell, the second-highest mountain in the Pennines at 848m. The route currently takes the good access road up the hillside, before a rough and tough descent on the other side of Great Dun Fell. Work by Cycling UK behind the scenes will hopefully open up 59

Cycling UK

other options here also, including taking in the epic High Cup Nick. The general area is particularly well known for the plants that originally colonised the high Pennines after the ice age, but is also popular for rare rock formations such as outcropping sugar limestone and the Great Whin Sill. The reserve encompasses an almost complete range of upland habitats from lower lying hay meadows, rough grazing and juniper wood to limestone grassland, blanket bogs and summit heaths of the high fells. Nowhere else in Britain is there such a diversity of rare habitats in one location.

4.8km south of a particularly spectacular section of Hadrian’s Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Evidence of this area’s industrial past remains, as well as the troubled life and conflict faced with living so close to the Scottish border. The Northumberland countryside provides great expanses of wild, remote hillsides and forests, which the Great North Trail heads straight into the depths of. Good forest tracks make navigation easy and average speeds potentially high, but it still takes a significant amount of time to make progress through this vast, epic and breath-taking wilderness.

South Tyne Trail

Eventually, like an oasis, Kielder Forest Park bursts into view and we descend to Britain’s (officially) best tourism experience, Kielder Water & Forest Park. This remote location offers plenty of adventure across its 650km2 span, boasting the biggest man-made lake in Northern Europe and the largest planted forest in England with 150 million trees. With so many activities, including many cycling trails for all abilities, as well as numerous off-the-bike activities, it makes the ideal end for this leg of the Great North Trail, before crossing into Scotland. With bothies and wild camping sites available and so much forest to explore, it makes a great location to spend some time in the wild, but if that’s not your thing, there are chalets, way-marked cycle trails, watersports and other activities to enjoy.

Once on the far side of Great Dun Fell, the route finds the source of the river South Tyne, which marks the start of the South Tyne Trail, and follows this 36.5km trail all the way to Haltwhistle. This stretch of the route is easy to ride and easy to navigate, as it joins a permissive cycle path along the valley bottom, beside the South Tynedale Railway, which now runs as a heritage railway. This easy passage is also adorned with passing over an impressive viaduct, before arriving in the centre of Britain, at Haltwhistle. This small town is one of two settlements that claim to be in the exact centre of Britain (the other is Dunsop Bridge in Lancashire). It’s also a popular destination due to its location just 60

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

A borders history lesson Edward I, also known as the ‘Hammer of the Scots’ stood out from all the English monarchs, regarding the troubled history of the English-Scottish border. He fought a long and bitter campaign, determined to impose English rule on Scotland. The Scots resisted and with massive armies, left abbeys plundered and burned whilst people and cattle were slaughtered. Defensive structures known as Pele (or Peel) towers were built, around 90 in all, which are quite unique to the north of England. These small stone buildings had walls 1-3 metres thick, would be square

Navigation Navigation across the North Pennines is relatively simple, with few tracks to choose from, although the actual track does grow faint at times on the descent from Great Dun Fell. It’s easy work once again, when you are following the valley and South Tyne Cycle trail all the way to Haltwistle. Beyond Haltwistle the navigation is relatively easy, as you soon join the well signed NCN 68 cycle route to Coldcotes, before heading north-west on forest tracks until Kielder Water and following the water’s edge cycle route to the finish.

or oblong in shape, usually three storeys high and mostly built on the outskirts of the Lake District. Designed to withstand short sieges, they had a tunnel-vaulted ground floor with no windows and were used as a storage area that could accommodate animals. The first floor contained a hall and kitchen, and the top floor a space for living and sleeping, with a usually flat battlemented roof. Today many of these towers have now been modified or extended, made into churches (bell towers), fallen down or seen their stone plundered for other buildings.

Best for Wild and remote moorland crossings, with flora, fauna and wildlife interests. A pleasant ride for the family, along the old South Tynedale Railway. A ride with historical interest, exploring off route around Hadrian’s Wall. Wild camping and an activity holiday around Kielder Water cycling as well as other activities.

Difficulty rating Appleby-in-Westmorland to Dufton A gentle road.

Haltwistle to Hadrian’s Wall. On-road and hilly.

Dufton to River Tees Steeper gradient and rougher trail until it crosses the River Tees (NY 760/338).

Hadrian’s Wall to Coldcotes Easy non-technical riding, with little or no traffic and shallow gradients, but a relatively remote setting.

River Tees to Alston Alston to Haltwistle Mostly flat, well-surfaced cycle path, rated green, apart from a short section of road at Lambley, rated blue.

Coldcotes to Kielder Blue technical difficulty through the forest, but rated purple for remoteness.

Housesteads Roman Fort Thirlwall Castle Vindolanda

Haltwhistle

The Sill: National Landscape Discovery Centre

Lambley Viaduct

NORTH PENNINES AONB

Epiacum Roman Fort South Tynedale Railway

Alston Nenthead Mines

Ashgill Force (Waterfall)

Killhope Lead Mining Museum

High Cup Nick

0 0

5 Miles

Appleby Castle

10 Kilometres

Appleby-in-Westmorland

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

North Pennines: Section 1

Appleby-inWestmorland to Haltwhistle Distance: 62km

Appleby-in-Westmorland The start of the third leg of the Great North Trail begins from the market village of Appleby-in-Westmorland, where we advise you to stock up on supplies, as the route now crosses the imposing and remote Great Dun Fell. This is the second-highest mountain in the Pennines, at 848m, only beaten into second place by Cross Fell at 893m just 3km to the north. There arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t any refreshments en-route for a while, but a picnic lunch on top of the hill is hard to beat, so fill your pockets before you leave town, and take some time out to admire the huge scenery and remote setting at the top

Lambley Viaduct Steam trains used to ferry lead, coal and limestone north to Haltwhistle over this viaduct. Although it fell into disrepair when the line closed in the 1970s, it has since been restored and you can enjoy amazing views from the top. www.bridgesonthetyne.co.uk/ lambrw.html

This area has been called Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last wilderness and it is not hard to see why. 63

Cycling UK of the hill. Leaving the Eden Valley behind, you head towards the looming and ominous mass of Dufton Fell, but when you reach the base of the hill, you skirt left along the foot of it. The official route heads up the hill from the hamlet of Knock along a well surfaced, tarmac access road. There is also a big, long steep ascent of around 550m in 6km, to the height of 760m, over the hip of Great Dun Fell. These statistics don’t really tell the whole story though, as this open and remote hilltop has an average temperature in May, which is same as that of London in January! The descent back down the other side may be gravity assisted but it is still hard work along the grassy track, weaving between the tussocks and heather, with rocks, ruts and water crossings. The trail fades away at times and doesn’t always follow the line of the bridleway on the map, so keep looking ahead and follow the most obvious and trodden trail, rather than fighting through the heather and grouse.

High Cup Nick Don’t miss this dramatic, U-shaped chasm, overlooking a glaciated valley www.visitcumbria.com/evnp/ high-cup-nick/ 64

The track does improve, and passes small waterfalls and pools in Trout Beck, which are ideal cooling off spots along the way. Further along you’ll encounter the ‘Daft as a brush’ art instillation – part of a series of sculptures known as the Eden Benchmarks – and then drop down into the Tyne Dale shortly after.

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

High Cup Nick Cycling UK is working to negotiate access in the future for an alternative crossing of Dufton Fell via spectacular High Cup Nick, which overlooks the best glaciated valley in Northern England. Unfortunately, it is not currently viable as after Cow Green reservoir the trail is designated as a footpath so not open to cyclists. However, High Cup Nick itself can be ridden as an additional loop on bridleways between Dufton and Murton. The climb up is rough and tough, but it’s the amazing views of this stunning geological formation which will steal your breath. The short valley is a classic U-shape, with a deep chasm on the Pennine fellside which forms part of the Whin Sill geological complex.

Tyne Head At Tyne Head, the source of the River South Tyne stands a stone sculpture in the form of an obelisk, erected in 2001.

Look through the slot in the stone, and you’ll see the generally accepted source of the South Tyne. The route joins the start of the South Tyne Trail (36.5km), which follows the river from source to Haltwhistle, and is open to cyclists. The track soon turns into tarmac, and with a mostly downhill run into the valley bottom, you are soon approaching the village of Alston, where there is a plethora of pubs, cafés and shops to restock your supplies. A permissive (cycle) trail now exists where the railway line once was, providing a rough, but good, hard trail between the river and the existing narrow gauge railway line along the valley bottom.

Cycling UK

Dufton Fell – geology, history, fauna and flora It’s in this area that you can see dramatic crags of dolerite, an igneous rock formed below the Earth’s surface, which when exposed weathers into spherical lumps. Cow Green Reservoir is one of the darkest places in the North Pennines, making it one of the best places, on a clear night, to star gaze. Around the south-eastern side of Meldon Hill (767m) is a legacy of the last ice age, 20,000 years ago when ice 1km thick streamed across the landscape, scouring and scraping the fells and dales. The short, bright green turf here is this colour because limestone grassland is so rich in wild plants. The Golden Plover is a wading bird with a mournful piping call that is worth looking out for between May to September. Arctic and alpine plants soon grew back after the ice age, and are still here today. Mountain everlasting, spring gentian, alpine bistort and false sedge to name a few are some of the plants you might see. 66

Red Grouse are the only bird tough enough to live out on the moors all-year round. Get ready to jump as their ‘go-back, go-back’ call startles you, when they burst out of their hiding place at the last moment. Tropical seas and deltas covered the area over 300 million years ago, leaving the skeletons of countless sea creatures which eventually hardened to limestone, whilst sandstone and shale formed from the delta sand and mud. Repeating layers of these rocks influence the landscape which we see today. Swaledale sheep are hardy ‘Fell flocks’ which stay on the hill most of the year and aren’t fenced in, as they’ve learned to stay put, a process known as ‘hefting’. The black and white plumage of the Lapwing, aka the ‘peewit’ which describes its distinctive call, can be spotted in spring and summer. The peat on these hills can be nearly 4m deep in places.

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland The commercial railway between Alston and Haltwhistle was closed by British Rail in May 1976, but the narrow gauge line is well preserved. The South Tynedale Railway continues to run trains from Alston, north to Slaggyford, and is England’s highest narrow gauge railway at 610 mm. Progress along this section is quick and easy, albeit with some gates to negotiate and train passengers to wave at along the way, but you soon find yourself in Slaggyford. The trail has to leave the railway line here briefly, but it’s worth popping into Slaggyford Station first, as it’s been very well preserved and offers a great little café with a range of homemade foods and seating in an old converted buffet car.

Lambley Viaduct The route continues up the valley, along the old railway line, to just short of the Lambley Viaduct, the most impressive landmark on the South Tyne Trail. The viaduct opened in 1862, when the North Pennines was extensively worked for lead, coal and limestone, and steam trains were used to move these materials from Alston Moor mining field, north to Haltwhistle. It later became the main form of transport for locals, until its closure in 1976 when the line and viaduct fell into disrepair. However in 1995 a restoration project was started and the 32m high arches are now safe to pass over and enjoy the views from. This is also where the walking and cycling paths

split briefly, as the old station is now a private residence. Walkers are directed off the old line, down and then back up some steps to cross the viaduct. Cyclists, to avoid the steps, must join a road and pass through Lambley and then ride over 1km to get back onto the viaduct. Although you’ll have to return along the 1+km stretch of trail, the view from the viaduct is wonderful and the water winding 32 metres below you with pebbled beaches looks an extremely tempting place for a refreshing paddle. The South Tyne Trail continues its journey northwards, along a well surfaced track, between lines of trees, making for a very pleasant, quick and easy ride all the way to the outskirts of Haltwhistle. The cycle path guides you left here, for a loop to avoid the A69 road crossing, which if on horseback would definitely be a must. On a bike and if it’s quiet, you could negotiate the crossing to keep straight ahead into the centre of Britain. It is also just under 5km south of a spectacular section of escarpment in Hadrian’s Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Haltwhistle has a good range of facilities, making the town a popular destination for visitors, especially with walkers and cyclists. The route climbs from Haltwhistle on a quiet lane, turning into a bridleway, before a short stretch along the busy military road (fast traffic but wide and with good sightlines). You then turn northwards to cross Hadrian’s Wall.

Cycling UK

Hadrian’s Wall Built to guard the north-west frontier of the Roman Empire, and stretches 117.5km (80 Roman miles) across the country from coast to coast: Wallsend in the east to Bowness on the Solway Firth. Built under the orders of Emperor Hadrian in AD122, it took over six years to complete, and boasted 80 milecastles, 17 larger forts and a defensive earthwork, the Vallum, to the south. It’s worth taking a day out to explore the sites of this fascinating slice of history, as only a few kilometres east off the Great North

Trail is the old Roman military base, Housesteads Roman Fort. It’s well worth a detour with a commanding 360 degree vantage point, barrack blocks, hospital, oldest toilets you’ll probably ever see, and an interactive Roman Army museum. In the museum you can see belongings of the Roman soldiers stationed there and relax in the mini-cinema where you can experience a journey through time to discover what life was like for the men, women and children on the edge of Roman Britain.

It is a common misconception that Hadrian’s Wall marks the boundary between England and Scotland. In fact, Hadrian’s Wall lies entirely within England and has never formed the Anglo-Scottish border. 6868

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

Hadrianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cycleway A 280km ride, coast-to-coast between Ravenglass and Tyneside, with 53km in Northumberland visiting the iconic central sections of Hadrianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wall and Roman history at every opportunity. The route can also be started at the first bit of coastline in the west, at Bowness-on-Solway, for a shorter 156km long ride. www.hadrian-guide.co.uk

Kielder Kielder Castle

NORTHUMBERLAND NATIONAL PARK

Kielder Observatory

Tower Knowe Visitor Centre

Housesteads Roman Fort

Thirlwall Castle

Vindolanda

Haltwhistle

The Sill: National Landscape Discovery Centre

Lambley Viaduct

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

Northumberland: Section 2

Haltwhistle to Kielder Distance: 58km

Kielder The Great North Trail continues northwards from Hadrian’s Wall at the lovely lake of Cawfields Quarry, where you leave civilisation behind and head out onto the quiet rolling roads which cut between the lush green hills and head out into no-man’s land. The rolling grass hills are soon replaced with huge, expansive swathes of pine forests of the Northumberland National Park, which swiftly swallows you up. Following the good, wide forest tracks adds an element of security to your journey as well as making progress relatively quick, and navigation easy. A bothy deep in the forest, on the route, would make for a magical night if you come prepared, or a saviour if you’ve not and are lost in the dark. Either way, the ‘Green’ is there if you want it. The trail continues delving even deeper into the trees, providing a feeling of real remote wilderness you wouldn’t usually find or expect in England. Eventually you reach an oasis, in the form of Kielder Water which bursts into view between a break in the trees. It almost feels like a mirage as the trail drops downhill towards the vibrant blue shimmering water, offering such a different sight to the green trees and dry dusty forest tracks you’ve been seeing for so long.

WARNING: Kielder Forest is a working forest so please be aware of harvesting operations and vehicles/timber wagons. 71

Cycling UK

Kielder Water and Forest, a winner of VisitEngland’s best tourism experience, is home to the UK’s largest artificial lake (by capacity of water) and England’s largest man-made forest. Work on the reservoir began in 1975, which is also home to England’s largest hydroelectric plant, producing around 20,000 MWh of electricity per year. This saves around 8,500 tonnes of carbon dioxide a year, compared to fossil fuel-based methods.

The route drops you quickly to the water’s edge where you pick up a good winding and undulating path all around the northern side of the water, although you might be delayed for a little while, as the route passes a café almost immediately. With the elation of completing the crossing through the forest and arriving in Kielder with a good signed track and no doubt some coffee and cake now inside of you, a renewed (hydroelectric!?) energy may well course through you. This will soon dispatch the northern part of the Kielder Water’s (43.5km) shoreline, taking in the stunning scenic viewpoints and wildlife spotting along the lakeside until the route eventually delivers you to Butteryhaugh, where Kielder Castle lies. Built in 1775 as a hunting 72

lodge for the Duke of Northumberland, it is now a visitor centre, with a café offering locally sourced homemade food for breakfast, lunch and snacks. It also has a free Forest Exhibition and red squirrel room you can visit, not to mention a bike shop just over the road, for any spares and repairs you may require. They also hire out electric MTBs, which is very useful and tempting for anyone who would like to sample some of the other cycling trails available here but needs a little more motivation (and energy). Alternatively, lie back, relax and enjoy the tranquillity of the place. You can wild camp, and get back to nature by learning to forage or alternatively enjoy a roof over your head, cooked meals and have a dabble in some water sports.

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

Things to do at Kielder If you fancy some time off the bike, there are five walking trails, water sports, an observatory tower and picnic and BBQ areas. Or if you would like to ride even more, there are a whopping seven cycling trails to enjoy, for a wide range of abilities. Bloody Bush: 32km (20m) Red grade trail Borderline: 11km (7m) Green grade trail Cross Border: 48km (30m) Forest road trail Deadwater: 10.5km (6.5m) Red grade trail Deadwater Up & Over: 17.5km (10.5m) Black grade trail Lakeside: 42km (26m) Blue grade trail Lonesome Pine: 18km (11m) Red grade trail Osprey: 19km (12m) Blue grade trail

Top Tip: There are a few unmanned â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wildâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; campsites around the forest, which are free to use.

Whatever you choose, Kielder makes a great destination to finish this section of the Great North Trail. 73

Cycling UK

North Pennines Directory Campsites Haggs Bank Bunkhouse and Campsite Alston CA9 3LH www.haggsbank.com 01434 382486

Demesne Farm Campsite and Bunkhouse Demesne Farm, Bellingham, Hexham NE48 2BS www.demesnefarmcampsite.co.uk 01434 220258

Alanholme Campsite Long Marton, Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6BN www.alanholme.co.uk 01768 361628

Herding Hill Farm Camping & Glamping Shield Hill, Haltwhistle NE49 9NW www.herdinghillfarm.co.uk 01434 320175

Garrigill Village Hall Campsite Garrigill, Alston CA9 3DS www.garrigillvh.org.uk

Haltwhistle Camping and Caravanning Club Site Park Village, Burnfoot, Haltwhistle NE49 0JP www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk 01434 320106

Alston Youth Hostel Youth Hostel, The Firs, Alston CA9 3RW www.alstonyouthhostel.co.uk 01434 38150

Herding Hill Farm Shield Hill, Haltwhistle NE49 9NW www.herdinghillfarm.co.uk 01434 320175

B&Bs

Stonehaugh Campsite The Old Farmhouse, Stonehaugh, Hexham NE48 3BU www.stonehaughcampsite.com 01434 230798

Hostels, Self Catering & Bothies Haggs Bank Bunkhouse and Campsite Alston CA9 3LH www.haggsbank.com 01434 382486 YHA Dufton, Appleby, Dufton, Cumbria, CA16 6DB www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-dufton 0345 371 9734 Cross Fell (Gregâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hut) Bothy (no facilities) LR91: NY 691 355 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-england-borders/cross-fell-gregs-hut/ Clear Sky Lodge Park Ravenshill Forest, Kielder, Hexham NE48 1EL www.clearskylodgekielder.co.uk 01434 250251

Royal Oak Inn Bongate, Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6UN www.royaloakappleby.co.uk 01768 351463 Eastview B&B Garrigill, near Alston CA9 3DU www.garrigillbedandbreakfast.co.uk 01434 381561 Lowbyer Manor Country House Alston CA9 3JX www.lowbyer.com 01434 381230 The Grey Bull B&B Main St, Haltwhistle NE49 0DL www.greybullhotel.co.uk 01434 321991 Burnhead Bed & Breakfast Haltwhistle NE49 9PJ www.burnheadbedandbreakfast.co.uk 01434 320841

Part 3: North Pennines & Northumberland

Kielder Forest Directory Refreshments

Campsites

The Stag Inn Dufton, Appleby-in-Westmorland, Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6DB www.thestagdufton.co.uk 01768 351608

Stonehaugh Campsite The Old Farmhouse, Stonehaugh, Hexham NE48 3BU www.stonehaughcampsite.com 01434 230798

Blueberry’s Café Alston CA9 3QN 01434 381928

Bellingham Camping and Caravanning Club Site www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk

South Tynedale Railway Station Alston CA9 3JB www.south-tynedale-railway.org.uk 01434 338212 Slaggyford Station Café Slaggyford, Brampton CA8 7NH www.south-tynedale-railway.org.uk 01434 338214 Kirkstyle Inn Slaggyford, Brampton CA8 7PB www.kirkstyleinn.co.uk 01434 381559

Bike Shops HelmWind Cycles Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6HX www.helmwind.co.uk 01768 361979 North Pennines Cycles Alston CA9 3PJ www.northpenninecycles.co.uk 01434 381324 Rock to Roll Cycles Mobile Services Brampton CA8 7LB 07507 883078

Railway Stations Appleby Haltwhistle Penrith Langwathby Lazonby & Kirkoswald Brampton

Demesne Farm Campsite and Bunkhouse Demesne Farm, Bellingham, Hexham NE48 2BS www.demesnefarmcampsite.co.uk 01434 220258 Kielder Campsite Kielder, Hexham NE48 1EJ www.kieldercampsite.co.uk 01434 239257 Scotch Knowe Backpacking Camp (no facilities) Grid Ref: NY562884 www.campingmole.co.uk/content/articles/ wild%20camping/backpacking%20sites%20 (kielder)%202014.pdf Geordy’s Knowe Backpacking Camp (no facilities) Grid ref: NY 628 878 www.campingmole.co.uk/content/articles/ wild%20camping/backpacking%20sites%20 (kielder)%202014.pdf Needs Hill Backpackers Camp (no facilities) Grid ref: NY 657 904 www.campingmole.co.uk/content/articles/ wild%20camping/backpacking%20sites%20 (kielder)%202014.pdf Plashetts Backpackers Camp (no facilities) Grid ref: NY 665 906 www.campingmole.co.uk/content/articles/ wild%20camping/backpacking%20sites%20 (kielder)%202014.pdf Belling Backpackers Camp (no facilities) Grid ref: NY 691 899 www.campingmole.co.uk/content/articles/ wild%20camping/backpacking%20sites%20 (kielder)%202014.pdf

Cycling UK

Hostels, Self Catering & Bothies YHA The Sill at Hadrianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wall Military Road Once Brewed, Bardon Mill, Hexham NE47 7AN www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-the-sill-at-hadrians-wall 0345 260 2702

Eals Lodge Bed and Breakfast Near Kielder, Tarset NE48 1LF www.ealslodgebandb.co.uk 01434 240269

Gibbs Hill Farm Hostel, Bardon Mill, Hexham, NE47 7AP www.gibbshillfarm.co.uk 01434 344030

Refreshments

Green Bothy (no facilities) NY 740 786 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/ northern-england-borders/green/

The Twice Brewed Inn Bardon Mill, Hexham NE47 7AN www.twicebrewedinn.co.uk 01434 344534

Wainhope Bothy (no facilities) NY 671 925 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-england-borders/wainhope/

Milecastle Inn B6318, Haltwhistle NE49 9NN www.milecastle-inn.com 01434 321372

Roughside Bothy (no facilities) NY 745 833 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-england-borders/roughside/

Falstone Old School Tea Rooms Hexham NE48 1AA www.falstonetearooms.co.uk 01434 240459

Haughtongreen Bothy (no facilities) NY 788 713 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-england-borders/haughtongreen/

The Pheasant Inn Stannersburn, Hexham NE48 1DD www.thepheasantinn.com 01434 240382

B&Bs The Old School House B&B Haltwhistle NE49 9EE www.oldschoolhousehaltwhistle.com 07792 270262 Broomshaw Hill Farm Haltwhistle NE49 9NP www.broomshaw.co.uk 01434 321775 Twice Brewed Inn Bardon Mill, Hexham NE47 7AN www.twicebrewedinn.co.uk 01434 344534 The Pheasant Inn Shilling Pot, Stannersburn, Hexham NE48 1DD www.thepheasantinn.com 01434 240382

Wallace Arms Rowfoot, Haltwhistle NE49 0JF 01434 298921

Anglers Arms Kielder, Hexham NE48 1ER anglersarms.business.site 01434 250072

Scottish Borders PART FOUR

Bridge 8 Hub

Castlelaw Hill Fort

Edinburgh Castle Slateford Aqueduct

National Museum of Scotland Arthur's Seat

Glentress Trail Centre

Peebles

Innerleithen

Robert Smail's Printing Works 7stanes Mountain Bike Trails Traquair House and Brewery Newark Castle

Selkirk

Scottish Borders Art Glass Borders Textile Towerhouse Stobs World War I Camp

Hermitage Castle

Kielder Observatory

Kielder Kielder Castle

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Scottish Borders: Route overview

Kielder Water to Edinburgh Distance: 154km Ascent: 3,767m

Area introduction and route summary The fourth stage of the Great North Trail route kicks off close to the Scottish border, in Kielder Forest, where there is a wide range of good off-road cycle routes to explore first if you desire. The Great North Trail route uses the easier forest tracks to leave Kielder Water, but there is the option to use parts of both the Lonesome Pine and Bloody Bush, red grade, MTB trails instead if you wish. They offer a more challenging route, with both technical riding and extra climbing, but it is well worth it if you like that sort of riding as the views from the top are superb too. Exiting the forest, you also exit England, enter Scotland and start a remote and epic journey through this vast, sparsely populated countryside. If you suffer from monophobia (fear of being alone), you’d better be riding with someone, as you will go for many kilometres often without seeing anyone. The route soon joins

an old disused railway line, which provides a simple route for cyclists to follow all the way into the town of Hawick (pronounced ‘Hoyk’), where you can stock up on essentials, like Irn-Bru(!), before continuing the journey through the rolling hills, through pasture lands and forests along old drove roads. Indeed, some sections which are popular with horse riders, can sometimes have enough hoof undulations that you might believe they’re still being used for droving!

The Scottish Borders, one of 32 council areas of Scotland, borders the City of Edinburgh, Dumfries and Galloway, East Lothian, Midlothian, South Lanarkshire, West Lothian and the English counties of Cumbria and Northumberland. It is also a term used to designate the areas of southern Scotland and northern England that bind the Anglo-Scottish border. 79

Cycling UK After climbing up to around 500m in height, onto Minch Moor, you’ll probably start seeing more cyclists in the next 8km than you’ve seen in the last 50. It’s here the Great North Trail joins the superb Innerleithen Red XC MTB trail. This fabulous and challenging descent drops you to Innerleithen town, which is popular and caters well for cyclists, although you may want to go just a bit further, to the MTB mecca of Glentress. This trail centre is worth spending some extra time at, as it offers excellent facilities including a wide range of great MTB trails. A visit is best planned mid-week when it’s much quieter.

After continuing on your way, crossing farm and forest land, the imposing rounded tops of the Pentland Hills rise up on the horizon, like a herd of giant whales. The route meanders through these beautiful hills, past reservoirs, and numerous people making the most of this lovely wild and rural spot, before the stunning views across the city of Edinburgh appear between the hill tops. Good traffic free cycle paths beside the waterways then lead you to the centre of this beautiful and interesting capital city, to finish this fourth leg of the Great North Trail journey.

Navigation Navigating along forest tracks can be a little confusing, as new ones often appear (or old ones disappear) and all look the same, but it’s relatively straightforward to start out on. Joining an old disused railway track helps to ease navigation, although there are a couple of small diversions to stay alert for. From Hawick, the Borders Abbeys Way trail is well signposted, although the field crossings can be hard work, so if you want to avoid styles and narrow footbridges you will need to navigate along some back road. After Peebles, the Cross Borders Drove Road is signed, so makes for easier navigation, and despite not following a marked trail through the Pentland Hills, it is pretty 80

straightforward to follow. On the outskirts of Edinburgh you quickly join the waterside, which guides you effortlessly either into Edinburgh, or towards Glasgow, on the next section of your Great North Trail journey.

Best for Big ‘out there’ rides, on little used trails where you are likely to have the place to yourself. A few days break, riding a variety of MTB trails, including superb technical XC routes and top class Downhill and Freeride tracks. Family rides in and around the Scottish capital city of Edinburgh.

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Difficulty rating Kielder to Hawick Is grade blue (or purple for reasonably remote setting).

Innerleithen to Peebles Is green, with a rainbow of colours for the various Glentress trails just off the route.

Hawick to Innerleithen Rated red as the trails become harder work and hilly.

Peebles to Edinburgh Rated red to the outskirts of Edinburgh, then green (or blue due to proximity to the water) into the centre along the canal.

Scottish Borders Art Glass

Borders Textile Towerhouse

Stobs World War I Camp

Hermitage Castle

Kielder Kielder Observatory

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Kielder Castle

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Wauchope Forest: Section 1

Kielder to Hawick Distance: 46km

Wauchope Forest This fourth section of the Great North Trail route starts from Kielder Castle, a former hunting lodge for the Duke of Northumberland, built in 1775, in the village of Butteryhaugh, at the northern tip of Kielder Water. A visitor centre, which now resides here, also offers a good café, providing locally sourced homemade food, including breakfast, which will set you up nicely for your adventure over the border to Scotland. There is also a bicycle shop here, should you have forgotten anything or need some last-minute tinkering done to your bicycle; advisable to do now as there is nothing for a while before you head off into the remote countryside.

WARNING: Kielder Forest is a working forest so please be aware of harvesting operations and vehicles/timber wagons. The route heads south to begin with, beside the lake, along the Cross Border Trail which stays along the valley bottom, forking right to stay with the Akenshaw Burn, along forest tracks, in the direction of Bloody Bush – the point at which crosses over the border into Scotland. If you have the desire and energy, the Lonesome Pine (red grade) MTB trail shares the same route at the start as the Cross Border Trail, and you can stay on this for some fun, technical trails instead. The Lonesome Pine trail leads you to the top of the felled Currick hilltop, at 454 metres,

for far reaching, panoramic views of the surrounding area. The wooden ‘Northshore style’ boardwalk trail keeps you above the rough and boggy terrain and makes for a very different style of track to ride. At the top the route splits. To re-join the main Great North Trail route you bear left, joining the Bloody Bush MTB trail. Continuing on this trail provides some further Northshore before fun, technical trails descend along the ‘Borderline’ and ‘The Final Countdown’ to deliver you back down to the Great North Trail trail at Bloody Bush, with a bloody big smile. 83

Cycling UK

Liddel Valley railway trails From Bloody Bush, after an open moorland crossing, you descend into the Liddel Valley which makes for a nice easy introduction to your Scottish journey. Whereas remote, empty countryside is uncommon in England, it is fairly standard in Scotland. After joining the old Border Counties Railway, just past the small hamlet of Steele Road, this disused railway track used to connect Hexham in Northumberland, with Riccarton Junction in Roxburghshire. It was intended to become the main line between Edinburgh and Newcastle upon Tyne, but disappointing commercial success and a sparse population resulted in the line being closed to passengers in 1956 and then completely in 1963. It’s hard to believe that anyone would think this remote track would have had much use, but it certainly makes a nice flat trail to cycle on now. Past Riccarton Junction,

at the B6399 road, the Waverley Route Heritage Association is located. They preserve and protect the Borders’ railways lines, and on some weekends run a passenger service on a section of re-laid track along the old Waverley Route. This means exiting a section of the trail, where you join a grassy but firm track that guides you up the hillside on a rough, little used track, before dropping back down to the old railway line once again, to continue to (the site of) Stobs Castle. With the remainder of the old railway line not rideable you join the road along the valley, leading to the town of Hawick, and passing Stobs World War I camp on the way. This is the best preserved WWI camp in Britain, making it an internationally important site. It was once a training camp in 1914, but became a camp for ‘aliens’ and then a prisoner of war camp that developed into the HQ camp for all Scottish POW camps.

The Waverley Route was the North British Railway’s line between Edinburgh and Carlisle, through the Scottish Borders. Opened in two stages, between 1849 and 1862, the railway linked the border towns of Galashiels, Melrose, St. Boswells and Hawick. It also saw one of the first attempts in the country to save a line from closure, holding a legendary status with many supporters and enthusiasts. It saw steam locomotives used right up until November 1967, but despite the strong opposition, it was axed in January 1969. Stobs World War 1 Camp An extremely well-preserved WW1 camp, used at first for training but eventually for accommodating prisoners of war. www.stobscamp.org/prisoners-of-war/

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Hawick The town of Hawick is known for its textiles and is home to a number of shops selling knitwear, cashmere and tweed. The Borders Textile Towerhouse is a place where visitors can discover the story of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knitwear and tweed industries and is well worth a visit. With a range of other

facilities and accommodation suitable for travellers, the town also makes a good location to stopover, or replenish your supplies for the Great North Trail. If you need bike repairs or parts Hawick Cycles bicycle shop is in the town centre.

Borders Textile Towerhouse Discover the story of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knitwear and tweed industries. www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/ borders-textile-towerhouse-p252911

Glentress Trail Centre

Peebles

Innerleithen

Robert Smail's Printing Works 7stanes Mountain Bike Trails Traquair House and Brewery

Newark Castle

Selkirk

Scottish Borders Art Glass

Borders Textile Towerhouse

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Stobs World War I Camp

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Tweed Valley: Section 2

Hawick to Peebles Distance: 50km

Tweed Valley Join the Borders Abbeys Way long-distance trail out of Hawick, for part of its 109km circular route, which follows between the ruined abbeys of Kelso, Jedburgh, Melrose and Dryburgh. Sadly they all lie off of the route, but there is an 88km circular cycle route which links them all, mostly following quiet roads (for more information see www.cyclescottishborders.com). The route now takes you across grassy fields, through quiet woodland and country roads as it winds its way through the peaceful countryside, following the yellow arrows of the Hawick paths. Be aware though, there are some grassy tracks and styles which make the going hard, as well as a narrow footbridge to cross the Ettrick Water. For those with heavily laden bikes, a sensible alternative would be to remain on the road after Woll, until the B7039 meets the route. Once across the water the Cross Borders Drove Road provides a good track to Yarrowford, where it turns into a hard grassy climb, before it improves and becomes a singletrack climb to Minch Moor, offering great views and a good challenge. It’s mostly downhill from this location too, and it’s a superb descent, with a variety of trails, from a fast blast, to switchback turns with berms through the woods further down. It’ll certainly test your skills (and fastenings if bikepacking), as you rattle your way down the hillside, down to the town of Innerleithen.

At Minch Moor you could stay ahead on the main track, and drop down steeply to Traquair, but the Innerleithen XC (red grade) crosses your path just here, and going right, at marker post no.25, enables you to join this excellent, technical way-marked trail.

Cycling UK

Glentress Trail Centre If you can, find time to visit this centreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s excellent facilities and variety of MTB trails. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much quieter mid-week www.glentressforest.com

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Innerleithen and Glentress Trail Centre MTB trails at Glentress: 3.5km Green, 8-16km Blue, 18km Red, 29km Black and a Freeride park (graded Orange). Innerleithen is a very popular town for cyclists to base themselves at, so there are plenty of facilities to choose from, and a good bike shop as well. However, also just a little further along the route, along the River Tweed, courtesy of a converted railway line, is Glentress, an MTB’ing mecca, which draws people from all over the country. As you would expect, the facilities there are superb, with camping, pods, lodges, hotel, guest houses, a bike shop, showers, café, and of course world class MTB trails of whatever grade you desire, including a multi-graded free-ride area. It is definitely a place to stop and linger on your journey. When you’ve had your fill, the route continues down the old railway to Peebles, where you can stock up on supplies, before heading out of town, and up Hamilton Hill, following along the Cross Borders Drove Road. It’s a stiff climb, but with a good surface, rising through bright yellow gorse, whose distinctive coconut aroma fills the air – although the scent is apparently experienced very strongly by some individuals, but weakly by others... After some challenging riding you are rewarded with some singletrack and big empty valleys which you will probably have all to yourself, apart from the sheep of course. 89

Edinburgh Castle

Bridge 8 Hub Slateford Aqueduct

National Museum of Scotland Arthur's Seat

Castlelaw Hill Fort

Glentress Trail Centre

3 Miles

Peebles

Robert Smail's Printing Works

5 Kilometres

Innerleithen Traquair House and Brewery

7stanes Mountain Bike Trails

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelse

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Pentlands: Section 3

Peebles to Edinburgh Distance: 52km

Pentland Hills After crossing the A701, the Cross Borders Drove Road continues up through the fields, but it’s easier to follow the road, with its better surface and no gates, which will get you to West Linton that little bit quicker, so you can enjoy some refreshments all the sooner. The lovely ‘Olde Toll Tea House’ is very nice, but the Pyet Deli is just up the road too, and it produces some amazing food, so you might just have to visit both, before continuing on your way. After leaving West Linton, you also leave the Cross Borders Drove Road, via The Loan and old Roman road, to Carlops. It’s a stiff climb up into the Pentland Hills from here, but as the big rolling hills present themselves, you arrive upon the oasis of the North Esk Reservoir. The dam here was completed in 1850 (along with the water-keeper’s cottage), acting as a huge storage tank for the mills that operated on the River North Esk at Penicuik in the 19th century. It maintained a constant flow throughout the year, thus allowing manufacturing to continue year round. Now it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and haven for a range of wildlife, including birds such as the common sandpiper, tufted duck and cormorant. The route heads to the northern side of the Pentland Hills, before diving back into the depths of it, following gravelly surfaced tracks, which flow downhill to join the tarmac past Loganlea Reservoir, a popular fly fishing spot. After passing

Glencorse Reservoir the route takes a left turn, up the steep hillside of Castlelaw Hill, between the bright yellow gorse bushes. This is a military training area however, so do not enter the firing range! Keep to the path, look out for the red flags and be aware of sudden noises, troops and vehicles.

Castlelaw Hill Fort is an Iron Age fortified settlement with a ‘souterrain’ (earth house), thought to have been used during the 2nd century AD. 91

Cycling UK

The Pentland Hills are formed from rocks that were formed 430 million years ago under the ocean, made from mud, silt and sand which was washed into the ocean. When the continents came together the rocks that had formed under the ocean were folded and uplifted to create this land.

Edinburgh Shortly into the climb up Castlelaw Hill, you pass a car park, where there will most probably be a number of people setting off from, so once you’ve lifted your bike over the gate to ride the next section of the hill, you will most likely have an audience. The track is well surfaced, straight and wide though, which makes the effort easier, but it also means you are in view of everyone too, so no slacking off just yet. However, you will soon be rolling along the soft, rounded hill tops of the Pentlands, with fantastic views of these bleak and barren hills, until from between the peaks an incredibly contrasting view of the urban sprawl of Edinburgh pops into sight, framed by the yellow gorse, blue sea and vast sky. Stop and take it all in, as the descent is fast and loose as it weaves down the hillside, before skirting along the foot of the hill, on a nice track, for one last look at the scale of the city, as you then descend down into it. 92

A cycle track guides you alongside the Water of Leith, along a lovely tree lined trail, beside parks and through a lit tunnel, until you reach the Union Canal, in the area of Kingsknowe. You have the option here, to either go left to continue along the Great North Trail route to Glasgow, avoiding the centre of Edinburgh or to turn right and follow the Union Canal into the centre of the city. It’s a lovely route into the capital city, which both the NCN75 cycle route and John Muir Way use. It’s a simple traffic free route that has you spinning along tree lined, well surfaced tracks, through tunnels, and past parks. It also crosses the wonderful 500ft long, eight-arched Slateford Aqueduct, built in 1822, which carries the Union Canal over the Water of Leith. It is advisable to walk across this aqueduct, with the potentially slippery and uneven surface, and it is usually pretty busy.

Part 4: Scottish Borders Edinburgh is a great place to visit, with a plethora of activities, whether active or relaxing, educational or entertaining. Alternatively, make the most of the wonderful cafés and watch the world roll by, or treat yourself to some retail therapy and walk amongst the beautiful neoclassical architecture, and Georgian town houses. Also well worth exploring is the old medieval town and castle which stands high over the city and dominates the skyline.

The John Muir Way stretches 215km (134m) across the heart of Scotland, between Helensburgh in the west to Dunbar on the east coast, and is open to cyclists. See www.johnmuirway.org

National Museum of Scotland You could spend hours and hours in this museum taking in Scotland’s history, wonders from around the world, nature, art, design, fashion, science and technology all under one roof. www.nms.ac.uk/nationalmuseum-of-scotland/

Arthur’s Seat For amazing views across the city and beyond, climb Arthur’s Seat in the middle of Holyrood Park. It’s an extinct volcano underneath. www.historicenvironment.scot/ visit-a-place/places/holyrood-park/ 93

Cycling UK

Other things to do in Edinburgh Visit Edinburgh Castle Go early to beat the (worst of the) crowds and be around for 1pm when they fire One o’clock Gun. This takes place on most days (except Sundays and holidays). This practice started in 1861 as a muzzle-loading cannon was fired each day to serve as a vital timekeeping device for ships in the harbour. Inside the castle you’ll see Scottish artefacts, including weapons, clothing, and the ‘Scottish Crown Jewels’. Travel the Royal Mile (by foot or bicycle) This is a busy stretch of road with cafés, restaurants, museums and shops which runs from the Castle to Holyrood Palace. Palace of Holyrood House Aka Holyrood Palace, the official residence of the British monarch since the 16th century, and is open year round. Walk around Holyrood Park and climb Arthur’s Seat in the middle of the park, an extinct volcano which at over 251m high offers amazing views across the city and beyond. Edinburgh’s Old Town just off the north of the Royal Mile, dates to medieval times, is an interesting place to have a look (and shop) around. National Museum of Scotland explore the diversity of the natural world, world cultures, science and technology, art, design and fashion and Scottish history, all under one roof. Scotch Whisky Experience Take a tour to learn about the origin, history and making of whisky, then the best bit, the tasting experience to learn about the different whisky regions in Scotland. Cycle in Holyrood Park and along The Innocent Railway, all the way to the coast (see opposite) 94

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Other cycling in and around Edinburgh As well as the Water of Leith you entered Edinburgh on, and the Union Canal which the Great North Trail leaves Edinburgh for Glasgow on, there are some other great rides to do from the city, such as riding across the Forth Bridge and riding through Holyrood Park, past Arthur’s Seat to the coast.

The Forth Bridge bike ride An exhilarating experience as you cross hundreds of feet above the Firth of Forth in traffic-free safety and enjoying a magnificent view of the Forth Rail Bridge. Head out of the city along the NCN1 route, following well-signposted cycle lanes, railway paths and quiet residential streets which will lead you over the bridge to North Queensferry. You can get refreshments here and then either return by bike, or train, which runs every 30mins.

of the Queen’s Drive and most of the roads are closed to motor vehicles in the park on Sundays. Join this path by the Palace of Holyroodhouse and ride from around the park, anti-clockwise, turning right at the roundabout on the far/south side of the park, and right at the next roundabout, and right onto East Parkside (near the Royal Commonwealth Pool). Take the first right and immediately right onto a driveway, down to the Innocent Railway tunnel – slight downhill and dark! Now follow this, signed as the NCN1 and John Muir Way, all the way to the coast.

Holyrood Park and the Innocent Railway Holyrood Park doesn’t have any official off-road cycle path, but does have a shared-use path that runs alongside part

Scottish food and drink to try In Scotland, the full breakfast contains the usual suspects; eggs, bacon, tomato, sausage and baked beans, plus some Scottish delicacies, such as Scottish black pudding, Lorne (square) sausage, Haggis, and tattie scones. Or Arbroath Smokies – kippers, which you’ll be tasting for the rest of the day! Irn-Bru is a carbonated soft drink, often described as ‘Scotland’s other national drink’ which tastes like bubblegum and outsells Coca-Cola. Haggis is the national dish of Scotland and a must try for all visitors. Historically eaten by the poor, it was traditionally made from sheep heart, liver and lungs,

mixed with onion, spices, fat, oatmeal, stock, and spices and then stuffed in a sheep’s stomach. Nowadays it has been modernised to meet today’s palate and demands, and is typically served with ‘neeps and tatties’ which are mashed turnips and potatoes, and maybe a side of whisky sauce. The veggie haggis is gaining in popularity – even (or perhaps especially) among meat eaters. Others include Scottish Salmon, Black pudding (Stornoway is famous for this), Cullen skink (a thick smoked haddock, potato and onion soup), Stovies (potato dish), Deep Fried Mars Bars and of course Whisky. 95

Cycling UK

Scottish Borders Directory Campsites

B&Bs

Kielder Village Campsite Kielder, Hexham NE48 1EJ www.kieldercampsite.co.uk 01434 239257 (Must arrive by 7pm)

Woodknowe B&B Innerleithen EH44 6QY www.woodknowe.co.uk 01896 831272

Tweedside Caravan Park (and camping) Innerleithen EH44 6JS www.tweedsidecaravanparkinnerleithen.co.uk 01896 831271 Glentress Forest Lodges Peebles EH45 8NA www.glentressforestlodges.co.uk 01721 721007 Crossburn Caravans and Campsite Peebles EH45 8ED www.crossburn-caravans.com 01721 720501

Hostels, Self Catering & Bothies Clear Sky Lodge Park Ravenshill Forest Park, Kielder, Hexham NE48 1EL www.clearskylodgekielder.co.uk 01434 250251

Glede Knowe Guest House Innerleithen EH44 6RB www.gledeknowe.co.uk 01896 831511 Craiguart B&B Peebles EH45 8LZ www.craiguart.co.uk 01721 720219 Peebles Hydro Peebles EH45 8LX www.peebleshydro.co.uk 01764 651846 Lindores Guest House Peebles EH45 8JE www.lindoresgh.co.uk 01721 729040 Kingsley Guest House Edinburgh EH16 5PS www.kingsleyguesthouse.co.uk 0131 237 3083

Cleikum Mill Lodge Innerleithen EH44 6QT www.cleikum-mill-lodge.co.uk 07790 592747

Glede Knowe Guest House 16 St Ronan’s Terrace, Innerleithen EH44 6RB www.gledeknowe.co.uk 01896 831511

Leysburnfoot (Will’s Bothy) (No Facilities) Grid ref: NY 536 976 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/ southern-scotland/leysburnfoot-wills-bothy/

Winkston Farmhouse Edinburgh Road, Peebles EH45 8PH www.winkstonholidays.co.uk 01721 721264

Haystack Hostel 5/3 West Register Street, New Town, Edinburgh, EH22AA, United Kingdom www.haystackhostels.co.uk 0131 557 0036

The Edinburgh Townhouse 38 North Castle Street, Edinburgh EH2 3BN 0131 225 1975

Part 4: Scottish Borders

Refreshments

Bike Shops

Anglers Arms Kielder, Hexham NE48 1ER www.anglersarms.business.site 01434 250072

The Bike Place Kielder, Hexham NE48 1ER www.thebikeplace.co.uk 01434 250457

Kielder Castle Café Hexham NE48 1ER www.dukespantry.co.uk 01434 250100 Bridge Inn 72 Port Brae, Peebles EH45 8AW www.thebridgeinnpeebles.co.uk 01721 720589 West End Café Hawick TD9 0AB 01450 373851 Café Sitooterie Innerleithen EH44 6HH www.caddonview.co.uk 01896 830208 Nashys Coffee House Cardrona EH45 9HX 07871 169580 Bridge Inn Peebles EH45 8AW www.thebridgeinnpeebles.co.uk 01721 720589 Olde Toll Tea House West Linton EH46 7EE 07967 187815 West End Café Hawick TD9 0AB 01450 373851 The Pyet Deli West Linton EH46 7EA 01968 660350 Paddle Café NCR754, Edinburgh 07957 446887 Café Sitooterie 14 Pirn Road, Innerleithen EH44 6HH www.caddonview.co.uk 01896 830208

Hawick Cycles Hawick TD9 9HW 01450 372631 Alpine Bikes Glentress Glentress Forest, Eshiels EH45 8NB www.tiso.com/shops/glentress 01721 724522 The Bicycle Works Edinburgh EH9 1JJ www.thebicycleworks.com 0131 228 8820 Soul Cycles Edinburgh EH3 9HW www.soulcycles.co.uk 0131 228 5913 Freewheelin Cycles Edinburgh EH11 1QR www.freewheelin.biz 0131 337 2351 Flatootcycles 71, High St, Selkirk TD7 4BZ 07469 887457

Railway Stations Tweedbank Galashiels Stow Edinburgh Waverly

Glentress Peel Café Glentress Peel, Peebles EH45 8NB 01721 724571 Ramblers Coffee Shop 1-2 Old Town EH45 8 Peebles www.facebook.com/RamblersCoffeeShop 01721 722217 97

Central Belt PART FIVE

The Kelpies Falkirk Wheel

Kilsyth Callendar Estate Cycle Trails

Kirkintilloch

Lithlingow Palace

Lithlingow

Avon Aqueduct

Cumbernauld Bishopbriggs

Slateford Aqueduct Lins Mill Edinburgh Castle

Bridge 8 Hub

National Museum of Scotland Arthur's Seat

ngrove Art Gallery and Museum

rside Museum of Transport Clydeside Distillery gow Science Centre

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5 Miles 10 Kilometres

rces: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen, Rijkswaterstaat, GSA, Geoland, FEMA, Intermap and the GIS user community, Sources: Esri, HERE, Garmin, FAO, NOAA, USGS, © OpenStreetMap contributors, and the GIS User Community

Central Belt: Route Overview

Edinburgh to Glasgow Distance: 83km Ascent: Mostly flat

Area information and route summary The fifth leg of the Great North Trail crosses the central belt of Scotland, from the capital city of Edinburgh in the east, to Scotland’s largest city Glasgow in the west. The central belt has the highest population density in Scotland, with around 3.5 million people living in an area of approximately 10,000km². This includes Greater Glasgow, Ayrshire, Falkirk, Edinburgh, Lothian and Fife. 100

Part 5: Central Belt This section, however, rarely makes you feel like you’re riding through highly populated areas, with lovely traffic-free cycle paths guiding you through the city outskirts to the city centres. Obviously, the city centres themselves are bustling hives of activity, with lots to do and see at either end, but the journey between is scenic and tranquil with impressive aqueduct crossings along the way. The riding is nearly all along well-surfaced cycle paths with very little gradient and it’s super easy to navigate, making for a quick and easy ride which could easily be covered in a day. However, you can take it at a more leisurely pace, breaking halfway in Falkirk. This will allow you more time to view and enjoy the serene setting, as well as exploring other activities in Falkirk, from visiting the Kelpies, riding the Callendar Cycle Trails or taking a boat ride on the Falkirk Wheel.

Bridge 8 Hub Navigation Super simple, following the cycle path alongside the Union Canal to Falkirk, and then the cycle path beside the Forth & Clyde Canal into Glasgow.

A hub of outdoor activity and urban adventure not far from Edinburgh, the Bridge 8 Hub is the place to try kayaking, canoeing, stand up paddle boarding, akwakating, mountain biking and archery. Refreshments are available from the Paddle café. www.bridge8hub.com

Difficulty rating

Best for A long-distance family friendly ride that can be done in one big hit, or a number of sections. Visiting both Scotland’s capital city and largest city, with some easy, pleasant cycling in between.

Edinburgh to Glasgow’ Mostly green in difficulty, but blue overall due to the proximity to the canal (the path sometimes goes immediately next to it with no barrier or verge). There are also several low bridges with narrow paths beneath them, and some narrow sections of trail and cobbles and aqueduct crossings. Note: There are some optional blue and red grade cycle trails just off the route if desired.

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Falkirk Wheel

The Kelpies Lithlingow Palace

Callendar Estate Cycle Trails

Edinburgh Castle National Museum of Scotland

Lithlingow Avon Aqueduct

Lins Mill

Arthur's Seat

Slateford Aqueduct Bridge 8 Hub

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5 Miles 10 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen, Rijkswaterstaat, GSA, Geoland, FEMA, Intermap and the GIS user community, Sources: Esri, HERE, Garmin, FAO, NOAA, USGS, © OpenStreetMap contributors, and the GIS User Community

Central Belt: Section 1

Edinburgh to Falkirk Distance: 48km

Union Canal Leaving the buzz and bustle of Edinburgh, you join the National Cycle Network (NCN) route 75 alongside the Union Canal, an easy, simple and pleasant exit from the city centre. Unless, that is, you’re sharing the path with the many commuters, in which case you’ll feel like a salmon swimming upstream, weaving in and out of the inbound workers. The impressive 152m long, eight-arched Slateford Aqueduct carries the canal over the Water of Leith, keeping you alongside 102

Part 5: Central Belt the Union Canal on the NCN754. Shortly before exiting Edinburgh behind you completely, you pass the brilliant Bridge 8 Hub Paddle Café which offers great value refreshments. If you have the time and inclination for something a little different, try out the on and off water activities here; or not even all that different – you can have a go on a pedal raft! The Akwakat is a bike-boat-raft, an MTB without wheels mounted onto two inflated pontoons. The pedals power a propeller and you can even steer with the bars.

One of two lowland canals in Scotland, the Union Canal opened in 1822 after four years of construction. It was known as the Edinburgh and Glasgow Union Canal as it linked Edinburgh with the Forth & Clyde Canal at Falkirk.

After an aqueduct transports you over the busy A720, suddenly you are into a different world of peace and tranquillity as you continue to spin along a well-surfaced, flat cycle path beside the water and sheltered by trees. With easy navigation and easy riding, progress is quick, allowing you to take your time, look around and appreciate the views and wildlife. If you’re lucky, you may spot an otter or even a water vole, although American mink (released from fur farms) are threatening the voles’ numbers. Some sections are narrow or with foliage encroaching, but otherwise the trail is generally open, bright, wide and well-surfaced. It’s advisable to have a bell fitted for this section, as there are many walkers, and you’ll save yourself a lot of time and polite coughing if you use one.

Falkirk Wheel The Falkirk Wheel, the world’s only rotating boat lift, was opened in 2002 to connect the Forth and Clyde Canal with the Union Canal. It replaced several old locks and, in about five minutes and only using the energy needed to boil eight kettles, it lifts boats 35m. It’s incredible. www.scottishcanals.co.uk/ falkirk-wheel/

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Cycling UK There are three major aqueducts along the Union Canal: Slateford, Lin’s Mill (Almond) and Avon. The first, Slateford, is within Edinburgh and 152m long, has eight arches and carries the canal over the Water of Leith. The second is Lin’s Mill, which may be the smallest, but is arguably the most spectacular. West of Ratho, it carries the canal 23m over the River Almond and has five arches. The steep-sided valley makes it very dramatic, best viewed from down by the river if you are keen enough to climb down the steps on the right before you cross over. The trail runs for quite some time along changeable towpath tracks to Avon Aqueduct,

shortly beyond Linlithgow. This is the second longest aqueduct in the UK at 247m in length and carries the canal 26m over the River Avon by Muiravonside Country Park. The route continues past Polmont and through a tunnel at Glen Village, unless you want to ride the Callendar Trails (in which case see the note below).

Falkirk Continuing along the Union Canal and the second long dark tunnel, you emerge at the top of The Falkirk Wheel. This rotating boat lift connects the Forth & Clyde Canal with the Union Canal, reopening the link that eleven locks used to serve until they were dismantled in 1933.

Note To get to the (Kilbean) Callendar Trails, turn off the Union Canal just before Glen Village (and before a bridge and then a tunnel) near Falkirk by following an alternative section of the John Muir Way (white arrow on purple background) to the right, up a slope to a road. Turn left, over the bridge then right on the Woodland Community Path (or keep ahead to the café and ice cream parlour). After the housing estate go left to join the Kilbean cycle track, which can be linked to the other Callendar trails. See further riding for more info. The Milk Barn at Glen Farm, off the route (before entering a tunnel) south of Falkirk and Glen Village, has an excellent artisan ice cream parlour and café, and is family-friendly with lots for children to do. Grid ref: NS 885/778

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Other things to do in Falkirk Take a boat cruise and a trip on the Falkirk Wheel www.scottishcanals.co.uk /falkirk-wheel Cycle to see the Kelpies – head east, following a cycle path along the Forth & Clyde Canal to The Helix, 350 hectares of green space and home to the (full-size) Kelpies. These are the world’s largest equine sculptures at 30 metres tall and weighing over 300 tonnes each. The Helix also has a café, lagoon, woodland and wetland areas and an adventure play zone. Alternatively, there are some small Kelpie sculptures in a Falkirk Wheel car park.

Part 5: Central Belt

Further riding Callendar Estate MTB Trails (near Falkirk). Canada Trail A green-graded route of 4.1km, with no steep hills, just gentle ups and downs around the site of the Battle of Falkirk Muir (1746). Look out for the optional boardwalk at Howierig which provides a challenge for those who want it.

This in turn can be linked with Craigieburn, delivering you to the Greenrig Cycles and Canada Wood CafĂŠ, which serves a nice breakfast, lunch, coffee and cakes. To re-join the Great North Trail from here, follow the John Muir Way back to the Union Canal and go left back alongside this.

Craigieburn Trail A blue grade trail of 3.4km in length with a few gentle hills and winding trails through Craigieburn Wood. Auchengean Trail A red grade route of 7.5km with some fast-flowing descents, berms, rocks and roots, but not hugely technical like red routes at Forestry Commission trail centres. There is also an optional orange route with obligatory gap jumps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for expert riders only! Kilbean Trail A 2.3km blue route with a 1km red part to it. Access is via the John Muir Way link path, with a steady climb followed by an exciting descent. This can be extended by following the (dead straight) farm track past the Westerglen transmitter for 1.8km to join the Auchengean Trail. Note: From the Great North Trail route you can join the Kilbean Trail, which can then be linked to the Auchengean cycle trail. 105

The Kelpies

Falkirk Wheel

Lithlingow Palace

Kilsyth Callendar Estate Cycle Trails

Avon Aqueduct

Kirkintilloch

Lithlingow

Cumbernauld

Bishopbriggs

Kelingrove Art Gallery and Museum Riverside Museum of Transport The Clydeside Distillery Glasgow Science Centre

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5 Miles 10 Kilometres

Central Belt: Section 2

Falkirk to Glasgow Distance: 35km

Forth & Clyde Canal From Falkirk, we continue the journey along the cycle path beside the Forth & Clyde Canal, parallel to the Antonine Wall, known to the Romans as Vallum Antonini. This wall was built on the orders of Emperor Antoninus Pius, and work started in AD 142, twenty years after Hadrian’s Wall. Constructed as a frontier for the empire and a barrier to raiding Caledonian tribes, this fortified turf and timber wall with stone foundations stretched from the Firth of 106

Part 5: Central Belt Forth to the Firth of Clyde with seventeen Roman forts along it. There are a few remains and sights along the way, but otherwise you may not notice it very often. The wide and well-surfaced path leads you quickly along the flat terrain beside the still water’s edge, which mirrors the giant sky. At Kirkintilloch there is a route option you could take if you don’t want to go into Glasgow and would rather continue on the Great North Trail. This cuts a corner by heading north on the NCN755 and John Muir Way Trail, past Milton of Campsie. Otherwise, the route continues along the NCN754 route, staying beside the Forth & Clyde canal, for a nice traffic-free cycle into the area of Kelvindale in Glasgow.

Glasgow At the end of a series of locks at the Kelvin (aqueduct) Crossing, the route leaves the NCN754 to head left, signed to Kibble Palace, city centre, down a zig-zag ramp to the River Kelvin. Here the Great North Trail heads right (north) under the bridge, following the river (on your right hand side), or you can turn left to follow the river, and Kelvin Walkway and NCN756 south, to the city centre. This is a lovely traffic-free cycle route right into the heart of the city, following the riverside through parks and tree-lined trails, with good surfaces and easy navigation. It’s a joy to ride and a fantastic way to finish the fifth leg of the Great North Trail, delivering you into a vibrant and exciting city with lots to do, see and experience. Glasgow is a port city on the River Clyde in Scotland’s western Lowlands. It’s famed for its Victorian and art nouveau architecture and shipbuilding history, but today it is a national cultural hub, home to institutions including the Scottish Opera, Scottish Ballet and National Theatre of Scotland, BBC Scotland, museums and a thriving music scene. The area around the Lower Harbour and Prince’s Dock has been

redeveloped and transformed, and is now home to a number of impressive and attractive modern buildings, which house a range of activities and events. The SEC (Scottish Event Campus) Armadillo building, for example, hosts various events and the multi-purpose indoor arena of the SSE Hydro building beside it also is a great venue. 107

Cycling UK

Things to do in Glasgow The Riverside Museum Exhibiting a wide collection of motor vehicles, a three-masted Victorian Tall Ship and a collection of bicycles from over the years. www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/ riverside-museum-p995001 Glasgow Science Centre The huge shimmering silver space-age building houses a planetarium, IMAX cinema, galleries with hands-on activities and cafés. A revolving tower also provides visitors with views of the city from 127m up. www.glasgowsciencecentre.org Clydeside Distillery In 2017, the Pumphouse that once controlled entry to Queen’s Dock became one of the first new distilleries in generations to operate in Glasgow. Enjoy a tour and whisky tasting, served with freshly-made artisan chocolate handcrafted by Sugar Wings of Glasgow. www.theclydeside.com Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum Opened in 1901 and Glasgow’s most popular tourist attraction, the striking Spanish Baroque-style architecture of red sandstone houses some great artwork and a museum with a WWII Spitfire, stuffed animals and much more. www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/ kelvingrove-art-gallery-and-museum-p246571 Drygate Brewery An ‘experiential’ micro-brewery, beer hall and restaurant. This joint venture between a micro-brewery and big brand aims to bring you the best of both (beer) worlds, delivered in a beer hall with big screens for sports, music and comedy events, and well over 24 beers on tap. www.drygate.com

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Part 5: Central Belt

Central Belt Directory Campsites

Refreshments

Beecraigs Caravan and Camping Site Linlithgow EH49 6PL www.westlothian.gov.uk 01506 284516

Scarlett’s Café Camelon, Falkirk FK1 4PG 01324 229225

The Wheel Caravan Park Rough Castle Farm, Falkirk FK1 4RX www.thewheelcaravanpark.co.uk 07872 574164 Spoke’n’Boot Greenbank Farmhouse, Falkirk FK1 5PU www.spoke-n-boot.co.uk 01324 671452

Hostels & Bothies Haystack Hostels 5/3 W Register St, Edinburgh EH2 2AA www.haystackhostels.co.uk 0131 557 0036 Glasgow Youth Hostel 7-8 Park Terrace, Glasgow G3 6BY www.hostellingscotland.org.uk/hostels/glasgow/ 0141 332 3004

Sitooterie 9 Stenhouse Cross, Edinburgh EH11 3JU 0131 281 4928 Paddle Café, NCR754, Edinburgh 07957 446887 Dotty’s Sandwich & Coffee Shop, 118 E Main St, Broxburn EH52 5EQ 01506 856471 So Strawberry Caffe 3 The Cross, Linlithgow EH49 7EY 01506 843333 The Milk Barn Glen Farm, Falkirk FK1 3AA www.themilkbarn.co.uk 01324 630703 Casci’s Café Callendar Riggs, Falkirk FK1 1UZ www.cascis.business.site

Kingsley Guest House Edinburgh EH16 5PS www.kingsleyguesthouse.co.uk 0131 237 3083

Peters Bakery Ltd. 71 Merkland Drive, Kirkintilloch, Glasgow G66 3SJ www.facebook.com/ PetersBakeryKirkintilloch/ 0141 775 1661

The Townhouse Edinburgh EH3 9NU www.edinburghbedandbreakfast.com 0131 229 1985

The Kelpies Visitor Centre The Helix FK2 7ZT www.thehelix.co.uk 01324 590600

Drum Farm B&B Denny FK6 5JL www.bedbreakfastdrumfarm.co.uk 01324 825518

Ghiloni’s 77 Townhead, Kirkintilloch, Glasgow G66 1NN www.ghiloniscafe.epageuk.com 0141 775 1158

Alamo Guest House Glasgow G3 7SE www.alamoguesthouse.com 0141 339 2395

Piecebox 2 Polwarth Cres, Edinburgh EH11 1HW www.piecebox.co.uk 0131 629 6284

B&Bs

The Stables Kirkintilloch, Glasgow G66 1RH www.vintageinn.co.uk/restaurants/ scotland-northern-ireland/thestableskirkintilloch 0141 777 6088

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Cycling UK

Bike Shops

Railway Stations

The Bicycle Works Edinburgh EH9 1JJ www.thebicycleworks.com 0131 228 8820

Edinburgh Waverley

Soul Cycles Edinburgh EH3 9HW www.soulcycles.co.uk 0131 228 5913

Wester Hailes

Freewheelin Cycles Edinburgh EH11 1QR www.freewheelin.biz 0131 337 2351

Lithlingow

Elevation Cycles 103 High St, Linlithgow EH49 7EQ www.elevationcycles.co.uk 01506 845390 Greenrig Cycles Lochgreen Road, Falkirk FK1 3AZ www.greenrigcycles.bike 01324 639619

Slateford Kingsknowe Edinburgh Park Uphall Manuel Polmont Falkirk High Falkirk Grahamston Camelon Cumbernauld Croy Lenzie Bishopbriggs

Billy Bilsland Cycles, Saltmarket, Glasgow 176 Saltmarket, Glasgow G1 5LA www.billybilslandcycles.co.uk 0141 552 0841

Possilpark & Parkhouse

Common Wheel, Maryhill Workshop 77 Chapel Street, Glasgow G20 9BD www.commonwheel.org.uk 0141 946 0777

Maryhill

Velo Works 116 Shakespeare Street, Glasgow G20 8LF www.veloworkshop.co.uk 07540 234561

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Gilshochill Summerston Kelvindale Glasgow Central

Grampian Mountains PART SIX

Loch Ness

Fort Augustus

Laggan Wolftrax Trail Centre

Dalwhinnie Distillery

Corrour

Rannoch

Moirlanich Longhouse

Killin Falls of Dochart

Falls of Leny

Bracklinn Falls

Callander Inchahome Priory

Drymen Glengoyne Distillery

0 0

10 Miles 20 Kilometres

Milngavie

Kelingrove Art Gallery and Museum Riverside Museum of Transport Glasgow Science Centre

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Grampian Mountains: Route overview

Glasgow to Fort Augustus Distance: 260km Ascent: 4,584m

Area introduction and route summary In Glasgow, the Great North Trail joins the recently developed ‘An Turas Mor’ route (Scottish Gaelic for ‘the long journey’), created by Obscura Mondo Cycle Club. www.anturasmor.co.uk This 570km bike ride from Glasgow to Cape Wrath climbs around 17,000 metres, joining together various backcountry tracks, national cycle routes, forest and estate tracks, drove-ways and quiet roads. It navigates across some very remote and wild landscapes, including mountain passes. This makes riding it physically very tough, demanding a high level of fitness and some riding experience. As it mainly uses gravel tracks, however, it is all very rideable (although the Corrieyairack Pass will probably defeat many people). Consequently, it only requires an intermediate level of skill, enabling fit riders to cover huge distances and pass through Scotland’s wild and remote landscape away from motor vehicles. The ride from Glasgow is an easy and pleasant experience, following pretty, riverside cycle paths, before a stretch on the popular (busy) West Highland Way walking route. Leaving this trail at Drymen soon has you away from the crowds on trails that wind through large forests, immediately making your trip feel more

remote and exciting. The picturesque loch-side tracks, stunning views and just enough facilities, such as cafés and accommodation along the way, give it the perfect amount of adventure. Simple navigation and good trails through most of this section make progress pretty quick, unless you are overcome by the temptation to cool off in the numerous beautiful lochs, with their beautiful little beaches all along the way. Several mountain passes mean that the weather will play a part in the enjoyment (and adventure) levels, and may delay your progress by days if it is unsafe to continue due to poor conditions. The wind at the top of these passes will be much stronger, there may well be snow, and these remote areas are not somewhere you’d want to be caught out. Even just riding in the valley bottoms, where the wind gets channelled down to, can inflict morally destroying headwinds and hamper your progress. This section finishes at Fort Augustus – the southern end of Loch Ness – right in the heart of Scotland. 113

Cycling UK

Scotland is an off-road cyclists haven. Not only has the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 given riders the same rights of access rights as walkers, but also the 18th century military roads and hydro-electric schemes have created hundreds of kilometres of good tracks across the hills and mountains, enabling cyclists to travel all over the Scottish Highlands, largely avoiding roads.

Access code While the Land Reform Act gives mountain bikers the same rights of access to the outdoors as walkers, it also makes users responsible for knowing and abiding by the ‘Access Code’. See ‘Do the Ride Thing’ www.dmbins.com/riders/do-the-ride-thing

Wild camping Wild camping is allowed in most places within Scotland, but due to the popularity of the Trossachs and Loch Lomond National Park, there are now ‘camping management zones’ in force, restricting the act of wild camping in certain areas.

Phone coverage Mobile phone coverage is intermittent in the Highlands, so an EPIRB (emergency position-indicating radio beacon) is recommended, especially if riding solo.

Bothies Bothies are traditional, roofed shelters in the mountains, many gifted to the charity ‘The Mountain Bothy Association’ (MBA), who maintain and protect them. Most bothies are open and free to use, but don’t expect any facilities, follow the rules and be aware that they are becoming more popular and could be full when you arrive.

Deer stalking The (red deer) season runs from the start of July to mid-February, so you should check the ‘Deer management Scotland’ website for information on dates and whereabouts of shoots. Red squirrel The introduction of the grey squirrel from North America (as well as the squirrel pox virus) caused our native red squirrel numbers to plummet and virtually disappear in the south of the UK. The total UK population is thought to be around 160,000, of which more than three-quarters are found in Scotland. With their beautiful distinctive russet fur and tufted ears, they are a heart-warming sight to behold. 114

Navigation The route is pretty easy to navigate because there are few options, so once you have found the correct track off roads or when exiting towns, it is usually a case of following the main track for a number of kilometres until you reach something else. You may also see a few ‘Au Turas Mor’ stickers up along the route, which will also confirm you are on the right track.

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Best for Remote and wild rides through the Scottish hillsides.

Point-to-point rides using trains to move around.

Wild weekends away.

Difficulty rating Glasgow to Maryhill Maryhill to Drymen (short 0.5km Red section at B821/Arlehaven).

Lochan Lairig Cheile to Kenknock (past Killin) Kenknock to the top of the pass

Drymen to Falls of Leny

Down from the pass to Bridge of Balgie

Falls of Leny to Strathyre

Bridge of Balgie to Bridge of Gaur

Strathyre to Balquhidder

Bridge of Gaur to Rannoch Station

Balquhidder (excluding the short climb up the hill at the start which is Blue) to Lochan Lairig Cheile

Rannoch Station to Fort Augustus

Other riding The Cape Wrath Trail 400km ride from Fort William to the very north-west tip of Scotland, described as Scotland’s wildest long distance trail.

family-friendly green to red and black XC runs, plus a bike park with big berms and tabletop jumps, it’s a highly recommended stop for mountain bikers.

The Badger Trail A 322km route from Inverness to Glasgow following rights of way, estate and forestry gravel roads while avoiding roads as much as possible, making it suitable for a gravel or mountain bike.

For some natural riding, there’s a lovely out-and-back ride to Coire Ardair by Creag Meagaidh on the north side of Loch Laggan. To enjoy this: follow a good track out the back of the car park, then a track beside the road, keep ahead with the red otter sign posts, cross the drive to the right side of the white farmhouse, uphill; keep right at the fork, on singletrack, signed Coire Ardair 5km; ride the great singletrack up the hillside, on the north side and following the Coire Adrair, into the open, taking the snaking path through the bracken and heather, with cliffs gradually coming into view; go for a bracing dip in the loch; return the way you came with a wonderful, fun but non-technical descent, which can be ridden fast or slow depending on what you want from it.

The Great Glen Way A 125km route between Fort William to Inverness (Fort Augustus is along it). Another adventure in the wild, but with limited risk and taking a day, would be to catch a train to Corrour Station, ride around Loch Ossian and stay a night at the remote YHA there. Laggan Wolftrax MTB Trails Over 32km of purpose-built trails with superb views of the Monadhliath Hills lying on the edge of the Cairngorms National Park. With routes from

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Falls of Leny

Bracklinn Falls

Callander

Inchahome Priory

Drymen

Glengoyne Distillery

Milngavie

3 Miles

5 Kilometres

Kelingrove Art Gallery and Museum Riverside Museum of Transport Glasgow Science Centre

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyre

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Campsie Fells: Section 1

Glasgow to Callander Distance: 64km

Glasgow and Campsie Fells The ride starts off by leaving the centre of Scotland’s largest city, Glasgow. You might imagine this to be a busy, scary traffic-dodging affair, but in reality it’s a very calm, picturesque and lovely route. Following the River Kelvin along the Kelvin Walkway, a deep, forested river gorge shelters you from the sights, sounds and traffic of the city and guides you through lovely leafy parks. This long distance trail is well-surfaced and easy to navigate, sending you safely and serenely out of the urban sprawl, and leaving the NCN754 at the Kelvin Crossing (Maryhill), where the Edinburgh to Glasgow route (see Part 5 of the Great North Trail) comes in. Beyond here, the trail becomes a nice dirt singletrack between the trees and alongside the river before crossing over grassy fields. A section of road then joins a good, straight singletrack trail alongside Allander Water to the town of Milngavie. Milngavie is the start of the West Highland Way (WHW), a popular long-distance footpath that runs 154km from Milngavie to Fort William in the Scottish Highlands. Due to the trail’s popularity with walkers as well as cyclists, together with the fact that some of it is un-rideable especially with loaded bikes, you follow it for just 16km to the village of Drymen.

The track is good and well-signposted, so progress is quick and enjoyable, as long as you have a bell fitted to alert the many walkers of your presence. There are also a few facilities such as cafés along the way too, providing some useful refreshment stops as you spin along through the woodland. After crossing the B821 road, a fun, rocky descent helps you to get some distance between you and the walkers and, with views down the valley of the mountains ahead, you will feel that this ride and adventure has properly started. 117

Cycling UK At Drymen, we leave the WHW to join the Rob Roy Way (RRW), a long-distance footpath that runs for 151km from Drymen to Pitlochry in Perth and Kinross. Created in 2002, this path takes its name from Rob Roy MacGregor, a Scottish folk hero and outlaw of the early 18th century who frequently travelled in the surrounding countryside. The route is briefly shared with the NCN7 until we turn off left, staying with the RRW and passing through the vast Loch Ard Forest. The quiet, remote forest tracks there lead you through the trees with relative ease and it is all well-signed. You will no doubt spot some large brick ventilation shafts with metal-grid domed tops which, in case you were wondering, are there for the aqueduct running underground. Loch Katrine The nearby loch was built to provide Glasgow’s growing population with clean drinking water. This involved constructing a huge dam to raise the level of the loch, a 42km-long aqueduct and a storage reservoir at Mugdock, plus 42km of mains aqueduct and 74km of distribution pipes to deliver the water to households throughout the city. All this was completed in under four years, opened in 1859 by Queen Victoria, and wiped out cholera within the city, a disease that had previously caused thousands of deaths. Aberfoyle Bike Park A new development for MTB’ing in the area, providing 700m of technical trails with berms, jumps, drops and rocks. Mortsafes Just before crossing the River Forth, at Kirkton, lies a graveyard where there are two ‘mortsafes’. These are a type of cast iron coffin made either as a solid casket (which these ones are) or as a framework to protect the body within from being dug up for medical research. 118

Glengoyne Distillery Glengoyne Distillery is a whisky distillery continuously in operation since its founding in 1833 at Dumgoyne, north of Glasgow. www.glengoyne.com

Part 6: Grampian Mountains Crossing the River Forth delivers you to the village of Aberfoyle and the very good Liz MacGregor’s Coffee Shop, ideal for a break before tackling the big climb up into the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park. The route re-joins the NCN7 cycle path, leaving the RRW as you zig-zag up the hillside, possibly accompanied with shrieks above your head from people climbing through the treetops on the ‘Go Ape’ ropes. The descent down the other side is fun, passing picturesque lochs. Note that cars are allowed through this forest on a scenic forest drive, so take care. A lovely, undulating, car-free trail, though, leads you around the edge of Loch Venachar (reservoir), with the tempting water lapping at the shore. You eventually re-join the RRW at the far end and then follow the NCN7 cycle path up the valley along the former Callander and Oban railway line (opened in stages between 1866 and 1880), much of it closed in 1965. The Falls of Leny, which you’ll now pass, are a series of waterfalls marking the boundary of the Highland Boundary Fault and therefore your crossing into the Highlands of Scotland.

Falls of Leny A series of stunning waterfalls that mark the Highland Boundary Fault. Near the village of Kilmahog (north west of Callander) in the Trossachs National Park, this spectacle is easy to find via a combined cycle-walkway. www.visitscotland.com/info/ towns-villages/falls-of-leny-p662861

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Corrour

Rannoch

Moirlanich Longhouse

Killin

5 Miles

Falls of Dochart

Falls of Leny Bracklinn Falls

Callander 0

10 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

The Trossachs: Section 2

Callander to Corrour Distance: 110km

The Trossachs Joining beside Loch Lubnaig, you pass through a holiday chalet park with a nice café, and then along beautiful stretches of the loch with yet more locations to stop off for a refreshing dip.

valley, which then offers wonderful views off to your right hand side. It is easy riding and navigating along a good track, passing between some high-sided rock passages and delivering you to Lochan Lairig Cheile.

In time, the village of Strathyre arrives and with it the offerings of refreshments and accommodation. There are, however, more places further up the valley, such as the very nice Kinghouse/Mhor 84 Motel near the former Balquhidder Station.

You cross the road here and descend to the village of Killin, home to the stunning Falls of Dochart. From the 18th century bridge, you can view the island of Inchbuie, the ancient burial place of the MacNab clan. It will probably be busy here, but it’s worth stopping and enjoying some refreshments at the Falls of Dochart Inn opposite, or head into the village to Shutters Café.

The trail continues along the NCN7, still following the old railway line. A short steep climb takes you part way up the side of the

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Glen Lochay Over the Bridge of Lochay, the route heads left up Glen Lochay, along a quiet, deadend road for a seemingly never-ending but shallow climb, possibly made harder with a headwind being channelled down the valley. This only adds to the time and trepidation you wallow in as you eye up the Munros to your right, which you will be heading over the top of next.

This valley used to be covered in woodland and known as the Royal Forest of Mamlorn, famed as one of Scotland’s most prolific and spectacular deer forests and Robert the Bruce’s hiding place after a battle defeat in 1306. Wildlife in Lochay Look out for golden eagles, sea eagles, sparrowhawks and much more. 122

The road keeps on down the valley until a lower pass presents itself and you turn right to climb the long, steep hillside. The old deteriorating track, though, makes for a good ascent and, as you zig-zag upwards, you can see all the way back down the valley from where you came. A pipeline follows parallel, as you and it make your way towards the Lubreoc hydro-electric power station. Going over the pass offers stunning views across the remote valleys and mountains in this wonderfully uplifting area.

Glen Lyon You join a better surfaced road now at the top of Glen Lyon, the longest enclosed glen in Scotland at some 54km. Thankfully, it’s downhill from here. A good surface beside an attractive river takes you to the Bridge of Balgie, where a great café at the post office awaits. You’ll want to stop and refuel before the next big remote climb on Kirk Road, an old drove track and route to church from Rannoch. It’s a tough climb, followed by a moorland top crossing, where you will feel very alone, but a long fast

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Loch Ossian

Falls of Dochart You can watch these white and misty falls from the 18th century bridge at Killin. Once they’ve crashed onto the rocks, the waters flow round the Islands of Inchbuie – believed to be the ancient burial place of the Clan Macnab. www.visitscotland.com/info/townsvillages/falls-of-dochart-p662781

However, a lovely track descends towards and then around the southern edge of Loch Ossian. At the end of this beautiful and remote water, sits a wonderful YHA hut all alone at the water’s edge. This timber clad hostel, built in 1895 and formerly a waiting room for the steam yacht that carried hunters to the Corrour Lodge, was converted into a hostel in 1931. Thanks to locally sourced hydro energy and its solar power supply, this self-catering, eco-hostel offers hot showers and electric panel heating. There are composting toilets as well, and a reed bed, grey water drainage system. It is only accessible by rail (Corrour Station is around a mile to the west), bicycle or foot, which also makes this remote hostel and setting even more special.

descent and wonderful views keep you company as you cruise along the southern side of the beautiful Loch Rannoch. Heading towards the towering Garbh Mheall peak makes you think you’re in for more climbing, but the trail veers to the right, across a flat plane and along a track which looks as if it hasn’t seen any action for a long time. The rough surface holds deep puddles in the ruts and eventually delivers you to the Bridge of Gaur, where you cross over the eerily dark and menacing water. The tarmac road guides you deeper into the valley towards the lone Rannoch Station. Although the Great North Trail route bears off the road to head north into the wilderness once more, it’s worth making a short detour to the station’s excellent tearoom. It also has some very nice accommodation, albeit pretty expensive. A cheaper alternative isn’t far, though, but it involves another climb across more remote countryside. Large white boulders lie scattered over the land, which stretches across a long, flat and wet-looking plain framed by towering mountains on the horizon and providing awe-inspiring views.

Corrour is the highest mainline railway station in the UK and the YHA hostel is very remote, only accessible by train, bike or a twenty mile walk! Once you reach the station though, there is a roaring fire, comfy couches, relaxed atmosphere and good homemade food to enjoy, plus beer and wine.

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Loch Ness

Fort Augustus

Laggan Wolftrax Trail Centre

Dalwhinnie Distillery

Corrour

Rannoch 0 0

5 Miles 10 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Loch Laggan & Corrieyairack Pass: Section 3

Corrour to Fort Augustus Distance: 98km

Loch Laggan Continuing with the route, there is a good track which hugs the northern shores of Loch Ossian for a nice, easy, steady ride out that shortly joins the access road to the Corrour Shooting Lodge. This better, smoother track manages to find a way between all the towering peaks that surround you, following beside the River Ossian. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll make quick progress and enjoy lovely views before dropping down into a forest which delivers you to the southern end of Loch Laggan. The trail along the southern edge of this loch offers easy riding and simple navigation too, allowing you to just relax, spin along and enjoy the wonderful views out across the water. There are several beautiful little (loch) beaches along the way too, which make wonderful locations for a private dip. Before the end of the loch, the route joins the tarmac access track to Ardverikie, which is lined by numerous rhododendron trees bursting with bright pink, white and purple flowers when in season. Ardverikie is an impressive private estate with Victorian roots as a traditional highland sporting estate. It now hires itself out for weddings and filming, and offers holiday cottages. At the end of the access road, you pass over the bridge, past the gatehouse and join a short section of a busy road, before turning off onto an unobvious track leading

steeply up the hillside. It quickly pops out of the trees to views of Glen Shirra behind, which you head down, scattering deer on your way, to a tarmac road along the valley bottom. This leads you past Garva Bridge to General Wadeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s military road, built in 1731 by over 500 men to link Fort Augustus and Dalwhinnie, and scaling the notorious Corrieyairack Pass. 125

Cycling UK

Corrieyairack Pass Military roads of Scotland were built in the 1700s to allow Government forces to deploy rapidly to key locations in the Highlands to deal with Jacobite uprisings (Jacobites were supporter of James VII of Scotland/James II of England). Under the command of General Wade, more than 400km of roads were built to link forts in the Great Glen between Fort William and Inverness, and with the road network in the south of Scotland at Dunkeld and Crieff. Wade’s successor, Major Caulfeild, added a further 1,300km to this network and, apart from some limited road-building in the middle ages, these were about the first roads built since Roman times. Heading out into the remote hills and marked with a ‘Road Closed’ sign, a rough, rocky track with tyre-pinching water bars takes you to the Corrieyairack Pass, the highest pass on this route. There are horribly deep, loose stones on this 775m

Loch Ness Is a monster still swimming around in the deep dark waters? Did St Columba really stop it from eating a disciple of his in AD 565? Is it what London surgeon R.K.Wilson photographed in 1934? Decide for yourself. www.lochness.com 126

zig-zag climb and the wind will batter you as you grind your way up. Dig deep, as this stretch will definitely challenge even the best of climbers! Views stretch on ahead as far as the eye can see to another mountain range on the horizon, highlighting how much more there is still to ride through Scotland. The pylons that are following (and guiding) you over this pass are a comforting reminder that civilisation is never too far away and, as you summit the peak, you have the joy of knowing that there is a descent of nearly 20km all the way to Fort Augustus. This village, at the southern tip of Loch Ness on the Caledonian Canal, is a popular tourist destination, and offers some well-earned refreshments at the end of this epic section of the Great North Trail. Fort Augustus village takes its name from a fort built after the defeat of the 1715 Jacobite uprising. It was one of three forts

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Laggan Wolftrax Trail Centre built along the Great Glen (the others being Fort William to the south and Fort George to the north) and named after King George II’s son William Augustus. He was also known as the Duke of Cumberland, or ‘The Butcher’ because of his brutality towards the Highlanders. The Caledonian Canal Fort Augustus sits on the 97km Caledonian Canal, designed by the famous engineer Thomas Telford and opened in 1822. This system of numerous locks linked Inverness to Fort William providing a shortcut for merchant ships between the east and west coasts of Scotland.

This is a highly recommended stop for mountain bikers on the edge of the Cairngorms National Park. It offers 32km of purpose-built trails from family-friendly to challenging, a range of facilities, plus views of the superb Monadhliath Mountains. www.lagganforest.com/mountain-biking

The Pine Marten The pine marten is a cat-sized member of the weasel family, with a long body, dark brown fur and a cream-coloured patch on the throat. Being rare and nocturnal, they are usually hard to spot, but their droppings (scats) are more easily seen, often red or blue due to their diet of bilberries, rowan berries and blackberries.

Loch Ness Monster The first recorded sighting of our famous Nessie was in 565 AD when it appeared from the depths, snatched a Pict and menaced a disciple of St Columba. The saint, it is said, forced it back into the waters. Over the years, rumours spread far and wide of other such strange events at Loch Ness. After the A82 was constructed in 1933, independent sightings were numerous and, in 1934, London surgeon R.K.Wilson took a photograph that appeared to show a head and neck rising above the water. 127

Cycling UK

Glasgow to Killin (Loch Lomond & The Trossachs) Directory Campsites

B&Bs

West Highland Way Campsite & Hotel Accommodation Milngavie, Glasgow G63 9AW 07488 261730

Alamo Guest House Glasgow G3 7SE www.alamoguesthouse.com 0141 339 2395

Drymen Camping Gartness Road, Drymen, Glasgow G63 0DN www.drymencamping.co.uk

Mulberry Lodge Gateside, By Drymen, Loch Lomond G63 0DW www.mulberrylodge.co.uk 01360 660215

Cobleland Campsite Station Road, Gartmore FK8 3RR www.campingintheforest.co.uk 01877 382392 Keltie Bridge Caravan Park Stirling Road, Callander FK17 8LQ www.keltiebridge.co.uk 01877 330606 Immervoulin Caravan & Camping Park Callander FK18 8NQ www.immervoulinpark.co.uk 01877 384285 Maragowan Caravan and Motorhome Club Site Aberfeldy Road, Killin FK21 8TN www.caravanclub.co.uk 01567 820245

Hostels & Bothies Glasgow Youth Hostel Glasgow G3 6BY www.hostellingscotland.org.uk 0141 332 3004 Poker Tree Self Catering Baillie Nicol Jarvie Court, Lochard Road, Aberfoyle FK8 3SZ www.aberfoyle-selfcatering.co.uk 07780 593305 Callander Hostel 6 Bridge St, Callander FK17 8AH www.callanderhostel.co.uk 01877 331465 An Tuiric Self Catering Holiday Cottage Callander FK17 8HT 07788 316688 Leny Estate Leny House, Callander FK17 8HA www.lenyestate.com 01877 331078

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The Hawthorns Drymen Bed and Breakfast The Square, 1 Gartness Road, Drymen, Glasgow G63 0BH www.hawthorns-drymen.com 01360 661222 The Drymen Inn 5 Stirling Road, Drymen, Glasgow G63 0BW www.thedrymeninn.com 01360 660123 Ashbank Bed & Breakfast 1 Balmaha Road, Drymen, Glasgow G63 0BX www.ashbank-drymen.co.uk 01360 660049 Corrie Glen B and B Manse Road, Aberfoyle FK8 3XF www.corrieglen.co.uk 01877 382427 The Ridings Holiday Cottages and B&B Brig oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Turk, Callander FK17 8HT www.trossachsridings.com 01877 376246 Invertrossachs Country House Invertrossachs, Callander FK17 8HG www.invertrossachs.co.uk 01877 331447 The Munro Inn Main Street, Strathyre, Callander FK18 8NA www.munroinn.co.uk 01877 384377 Tigh Na Crich Bed and Breakfast Main Street, Lochearnhead FK19 8PR www.tighnacrich.co.uk 01567 830235 The Falls Of Dochart Inn Gray St, Killin FK21 8SL www.fallsofdochartinn.co.uk 01567 820270 Breadalbane House B&B Breadalbane House, Main St, Killin FK21 8UT www.breadalbanehouse.com 01567 820134

Part 6: Grampian Mountains

Refreshments The Honeybee Bakery 48 Station Road, Milngavie, Glasgow G62 8AB www.thehoneybeebakery.co.uk 0141 956 4044

Trossachs Woollen Mill Kilmahog, Callander FK17 8HD www.trossachswoollenmill.com 01877 330178

Gavin’s Mill Gavin’s Mill Road, Milngavie, Glasgow G62 6NB www.gavinsmill.org 0141 955 0437

Broch Café A84, Strathyre FK18 8NA www.brochcafe.co.uk 01877 384612

Charlies Coffee Bar Craigallian Road, Mugdock, Glasgow G62 8EL 0141 956 6775

Mhor 84 Motel 84 Kingshouse, Balquhidder, Lochearnhead FK19 8NY www.mhor84.net 01877 384646

The Beech Tree Dumgoyne, Glasgow G63 9LA www.thebeechtreeinn.co.uk 01360 550297 Oakwood Garden Centre Glasgow G63 9PT 01360 550248 Duncan Family Farms, Cake & Coffee Bar Gartness Road, Balfron Station, Glasgow G63 0NH 07749 931144 Skoosh 50 Main St, Drymen, Glasgow G63 0BG 01360 661212 Liz Macgregors Coffee Shop Trossachs Gate, Main Street, Aberfoyle, Stirling FK8 3UG 01877 389376 Aberfoyle Bike Hire & Café Main Sreet, Aberfoyle, Stirling FK8 3UQ www.aberfoylebikehire.co.uk 01877 382023 The Forth Inn Main Sreet, Aberfoyle, Stirling FK8 3UQ www.forthinn.com 01877 382372 The Lade Inn Callander FK17 8HD www.theladeinn.com 01877 330152

The Golden Larches Restaurant and B&B Balquhidder Station, Uam Vaar, Lochearnhead FK19 8NX www.thegoldenlarches.com 01567 830262 Capercaillie Restaurant, Bar and Accommodation Main St, Killin FK21 8UT 01567 820355 Shutters Killin FK21 8UN 01567 820314 The Falls Of Dochart Inn Gray St, Killin FK21 8SL www.fallsofdochartinn.co.uk 01567 820270

Bike Shops Billy Bilsland Cycles 176 Saltmarket, Glasgow G1 5LA www.billybilslandcycles.co.uk 0141 552 0841 Common Wheel Maryhill Workshop, 77 Chapel St, Glasgow G20 9BD www.commonwheel.org.uk 0141 946 0777 Velo Works 116 Shakespeare Street, Glasgow G20 8LF www.veloworkshop.co.uk 07540 234561

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Cycling UK

Glasgow to Killin (Loch Lomond & The Trossachs) Directory

Killin to Fort Augustus (Grampians) Directory

Bike Shops (cont)

Kilvrecht Campsite Kinloch Rannoch, Pitlochry PH17 2QJ www.scotland.forestry.gov.uk 01350 727284

Milngavie Cycle Works The Bike Shed, 39 Ferguson Ave, Milngavie, Glasgow G62 7TF www.milngaviecycleworks.cc 07472 225022 Mugdock Country Cycles The Courtyard, Mugdock Country Park, Craigallian Road, Milngavie, Glasgow G62 8EL www.mugdockcountrycycles.com 0141 956 6483 Aberfoyle Bike Hire & CafĂŠ Main Sreet, Aberfoyle, Stirling FK8 3UQ www.aberfoylebikehire.co.uk 01877 382023

Campsites

Hostels & Bothies Staoineag Bothy (no facilities) LR41: NN 296 678 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/central-highlands/staoineag/ Luib Chonnal Bothy (no facilities) LR34: NN 394 936 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/central-highlands/luib-chonnal/

Katrine Wheelz, Callander FK17 8HZ www.katrinewheelz.co.uk 01877 376366

Blackburn of Corrieyairack Bothy (no facilities) LR34: NH 382 029 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/central-highlands/blackburn-of-corrieyairack/

Wheels Cycling Centre Invertrossachs Road, Callander FK17 8HW www.wheelscyclingcentre.com 01877 331100

Loch Ossian Youth Hostel Corrour, Fort William PH30 4AA www.yostellingscotland.org.uk 01397 732207

Killin Outdoor Centre Main St, Killin FK21 8UJ www.killinoutdoor.co.uk 01567 820652

Moragâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge Hostel Bunoich Brae, Fort Augustus PH32 4DG www.moragslodge.com 01320 366289

Railway Stations Glasgow Central Glasgow Queen Street Maryhill Kelvindale Summerston Hillfoot Milngavie Balloch Crianlarich

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Part 6: Grampian Mountains

B&Bs

Bike Shops

Bridge of Gaur Guesthouse Camusericht Farmhouse, Bridge of Gaur PH17 2QD www.middleofnowhere.co.uk 01882 633356

Killin Outdoor Centre Main Sreet, Killin FK21 8UJ www.killinoutdoor.co.uk 01567 820652

Moor of Rannoch Restaurant & Rooms Rannoch Station, Highland Perthshire PH17 2QA www.moorofrannoch.co.uk 01882 633238 Corrour Signal Box Corrour Estate, Fort William PH30 4AA www.corrour.co.uk 07825 887013 Abbey Cottage Bed & Breakfast Fort Augustus PH32 4BD www.abbeycottagelochness.co.uk 01320 310524

Ness eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;bikes at Girvans Hardware Girvans Hardware, Fort William Road, Fort Augustus PH32 4BH www.girvanshardware.co.uk 01320 366864

Railway Stations Rannoch Corrour Tulloch Dalwhinnie

Refreshments Glenlyon Post Office Aberfeldy PH15 2PP Rannoch Station Tea Room Pitlochry PH17 2QA www.rannochstationtearoom.co.uk 01882 633247 Moor of Rannoch Restaurant & Rooms Rannoch Station, Highland Perthshire PH17 2QA www.moorofrannoch.co.uk 01882 633238 Corrour Station House Corrour Estate, Fort William PH30 4AA www.corrour-station-house-restaurant.co.uk 01397 732236 The Boathouse Lochside Restaurant Fort Augustus, Inverness-shire. PH32 4BD www.lochnessboathouse.co.uk 01320 366682

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Northern Highlands PART SEVEN

Oykel Bridge

Carbisdale Castle and Mountain Bike Trails

Strathpeffer

Garve Contin Mountain Bike Trails

Glen Ord Distillery Visitor Centre

Cannich

Plodda Falls

10 Miles

Loch Ness

Fort Augustus

20 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 7: Northern Highlands

Northern Highlands: Route Overview

Fort Augustus to Oykel Bridge Distance: 151km Ascent: 2,929m

Area introduction and route summary This section of the Great North Trail is the most wild and remote of the whole ride, with long stretches of old military roads and hydro-scheme tracks penetrating the epic, mountainous terrain of the Scottish Highlands. This is a true wilderness. Facilities are limited and there are few escape-routes along the way, so you will need to be well-prepared and fit for the journey. It will, however, prove the most amazing and rewarding experience: not only will you see the remote and stunning landscape that is the Scottish Highlands, but also immerse yourself in it. Fort Augustus sits on the Great Glen Fault. Between Inverness and Fort William, this separates the rocky north-west highlands from the Grampian Mountains of the central highlands to the south-east with a series of lochs connected by rivers.

The mountains and moorland to the north of here are home to many superb, quiet glens, remote lochs and abundant red deer. However, a sad story lies behind why this land is so sparsely populated. Crofters, who pay rent for their croft (a property with land for small-scale food production, particular to the Scottish Highlands and Islands) were forced off the land from the end of the 18th century by landowners who wanted to make way for sheep. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Clearancesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, as they came to be known, forced over 150,000 people out of their homes and ultimately resulted in thousands of Scottish people emigrating.

Contin Mountain Bike Trails Host to the annual amateur, very wintry Strathpuffer 24 MTB race in January, these trails are a great place to ride if you have penchant for roots, rock slabs and lots of singletrack. www.mtbtrails.info/ Trail_Venue.aspx?VenueNumber=24 135

Cycling UK The route passes through some remnants of the Caledonian Forest which once covered most of Scotland. Over the last millennium, more than 90% of Britain’s original forest has been lost, but restorative work is being done, and many estates are being supported by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development to plant native woodland. Before the finish at Oykel Bridge, the route passes through part of the 23,000-acre Alladale Estate. Owned by Paul Lister, this estate has done great work regenerating the land by planting hundreds of thousands of trees and restoring dried-out peat bogs. There are even hopes of reintroducing wolves to the area. Yellowstone National Park did this in 1995, a move that worked well for its eco-system (watch ‘How Wolves Change Rivers’ on You Tube). It is thought that the same could be true for the Scottish Highlands, although it involves high fences and closing off access to some areas, so the idea has been met with some resistance. A lovely downhill on a forest track finishes this section of the ride at Oykel Bridge. There may not be a lot there, but at least you can relax in the hotel whilst contemplating the tantalisingly close final leg of the Great North Trail route.

Plodda Falls A 1km detour from the route will deliver you to the sight of the Plodda Falls plunging a full 46m past banks of trees. www.forestryandland.gov.scot/visit/ plodda-falls

Beware! Beware of the deer-stalking season which runs between the start of July to mid-February. During these times, check www.deer-management.co.uk and look for information on dates and the whereabouts of shoots. 136

Part 7: Northern Highlands

Navigation Navigation is relatively simple through the long glens, with few route choices on offer. It is, however, often imperative that you make the right choice, as the remote location and lack of mobile reception could potentially be very dangerous.

Best for

Difficulty rating Fort Augustus to Contin Some optional Red grade MTB trails at Contin Contin to Inchbae Inchbae to Oykel bridge

Rides exploring the most remote and wild tracks of the Scottish Highlands.

Highland cattle

Scottish wildcats

A Scottish breed, instantly recognisable with their long horns and flowing golden coats. They are hardy creatures, having been bred to withstand the Scottish Highland winter conditions, and produce milk with a very high butterfat content.

Have hunted in Scotland since the Ice Age, but are in serious decline. They look like a large version of the domestic tabby cat, with a long, blunt-ended tail ringed by dark bands. They’re wild, elusive and it’s extremely rare to spot them.

The Peatlands Undergoing much-needed restoration work because drainage systems, once implemented to improve grazing conditions, actually hinder the living eco-system and carbon store of the peat. With peat bogs soaking up more carbon than all the world’s forests combined, it is imperative that they are maintained to help tackle climate change. 137

Garve Strathpeffer

Contin Mountain Bike Trails

Glen Ord Distillery Visitor Centre

Cannich

Plodda Falls

Loch Ness

Fort Augustus

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Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen,

Part 7: Northern Highlands

Northern Highlands: Section 1

Fort Augustus to Garve Station Distance: 91km

Inchnacardoch Forest Heading north out of Fort Augustus and into the vast Inchnacardoch Forest, the route follows an old military road built by Major Caulfeild in 1755 to link the garrison at Fort Augustus to the barracks in Bernera. It is a narrow, muddy singletrack trail to begin with, wiggling its way up through the forest before it joins a wide forest track and follows it beneath the pylons. It soon turns off this track onto another small singletrack trail and fords a (small) river which, if in spate, could be difficult to cross. The singletrack then continues on the far side for a fun, rough descent, before once more becoming a forest track to Torgyle Bridge at the bottom of Glen Moriston Valley. If you’re ready for refreshments, you can stop off at Redburn Café a little way off the route. It’s right on the road and usually open seven days a week, closing at 5pm.

Salmon Salmon mostly spend their early life in rivers and then swim out to the sea for their adult life. When mature, they return to the rivers to spawn, usually in November to December (but in some areas, particularly larger rivers, this can happen from October to late February). About 90 to 95% of all Atlantic salmon die after spawning has taken place.

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Cycling UK Heading back up the other side of the valley beneath the pylons once again, a tough climb elevates you to a commanding height where a sobering view awaits, stretching as far as you can see with high mountain peaks on the horizon. It’s hard to comprehend the route ahead of you that still needs to be traversed, but a quick glance behind will also show you the impressive distance you’ve already come. This, and the largely downhill trail now due to you, should provide sufficient encouragement to get you going once again but, as you cross this desolate, exposed hilltop, make sure you bear left away from the pylons at a fork, dropping down to Strathglass Valley.

A short 1km detour here delivers you to the amazing 46 metre high Plodda Falls, well worth the effort. You then continue along the singletrack road beside the River Glass, to the village of Struy. The route now follows one of the hydro-electric tracks up and out of the north of the valley. This undulates across the exposed hilltops where a reassuring pipeline above the ground will guide you visibly to the Glen Orrin Dam. But beware: the dam was put here for a reason – this area has some of the highest levels of rainfall in Scotland. Luckily, there is a bothy you can visit along the way before you reach the dam, should you get caught in a wee shower. Beyond the dam, a road leads you down the valley alongside the River Orrin to the village of Marybank. From here, you have to join the busy A835 road for around 3km. This can be quite busy, so take care. You’ll then be delivered to Contin, a nice little village (although it sadly lacks a café) where you can refuel with snacks at the 140

petrol station. If you require any additional facilities or bike repairs, head for Strathpeffer, which has a range of facilities and the Square Wheels bike shop. The Contin Forest MTB trails here host the annual amateur Strathpuffer 24 race in January, an MTB event reputed to be the world’s only 24-hour race in winter conditions. With around 17-hours of the race taking place in darkness, plus harsh Scottish winter conditions, it is a true test of any rider’s mettle. The 16km way-marked red grade trail here is also a great ride too, with roots, rock slabs and lots of singletrack, so worth a play if you can.

Part 7: Northern Highlands

Back on route and further up the trail along Black Water are the wonderful Rogie Falls, famous for viewing salmon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fabulous to watch as they leap up the crashing waters.

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Oykel Bridge

Carbisdale Castle and Mountain Bike Trails

Garve

Strathpeffer

Contin Mountain Bike Trails

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Glen Ord Distillery Visitor Centre

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelse

Part 7: Northern Highlands

Northern Highlands: Section 2

Garve Station to Oykel Bridge Distance: 133km

Strathgarve Forest Continuing along the way, and through a farmyard, you are once again following more military roads, and will go over a high-arched stone bridge to the east of Little Garve. This bridge was built under the supervision of Major Caulfeild in 1762 to carry the Contin to Poolewe military road across the river. Take care crossing the busy A835 road, and quickly leave it to join a track through the forest, parallel to the road. Watch out for forestry vehicles along here, though, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a working forest and they are likely to be coming downhill towards you. As they are big, heavy things, you will need to stop to let them past. Keep a look out

for the right hand turning to cross over the Inchbae Bridge and ride up the road passing the Inchbae Lodge Inn, where you can either stop over or use the coffee shop. Continuing up the road, you head back off-road just before Black Bridge onto a private tarmac track to Loch Vaich. The tarmac soon gives way to a good off-road track, just up on the eastern side of the loch, providing lovely views over the water and down this quiet and remote valley. In fact, the company youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re most likely to keep are the chilled-out and docile Highland cattle who tend to lie across this old drove road and let you weave your way in between them.

Carbisdale Mountain Bike Trails Two challenging, scenic trails with rock obstacles, descents and, for the less confident, easier alternatives. www.visitscotland.com/info/ towns-villages/kyle-of-sutherland-mtbtrail-balblair-p402151 143

Cycling UK

There are a couple of wonderfully located buildings at Lubachlaggan, which would, and did, once provide an amazing bothy, but are now in a sad state of disrepair. Further up this track is the divide between the east and west highlands before you descend to Deanich Lodge, one of the most remote buildings in Scotland and available for hire.

Gleann Mòr and Amat Forest You join the access track to this lodge, travelling down the lovely Gleann Mòr on a good path, descending to the magnificent pinewoods of Amat Forest in Alladale. The estate here has been the subject of great controversy around its plans to reintroduce wolves and enclose the whole area with a giant fence. Its regeneration of the woodland has been superb, though. The Caledonian Forest, which once covered most of Scotland, has declined over thousands of years (Caledonia, in fact, is the Roman name for Scotland, meaning ‘wooded heights’). The ancient forest, though, lives on in some wonderful remnants with Scots pine, birch, rowan, aspen and oak providing a habitat for rare species such as crossbill, capercaillie, crested tit and the red squirrel. Heading north-west up the valley of Strath Cuileannach in the Croick Estate, reminders of ‘The Clearances’ can be seen in abandoned crofts and even etchings on the 144

church’s eastern windows by crofters who sheltered here after being evicted in 1845. The trail becomes rougher past an old farmhouse at Lubachoinnich, offering some wonderful views of the Sutherland mountains before a fast downhill descent along a good forest track. This will deliver you to Oykel Bridge and its very remote and welcome hotel, where you can celebrate completing this remote section of the Great North Trail.

Note You are obviously pretty much in the middle of nowhere at Oykel Bridge, so if you’re not continuing to the end of the country (just yet), and don’t have someone picking you up, you’ll need some way of getting home. One option is Culrain Railway Station, around 16km east of Oykel Bridge.

Part 7: Northern Highlands

Northern Highlands Directory Campsites Cannich Caravan Park Beauly IV4 7LT www.highlandcamping.co.uk Riverside Chalets and Caravan Park Contin, Strathpeffer IV14 9ES www.lochness-chalets.co.uk 01463 513599

Hostels/Self Catering Moragâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge Bunoich Brae, Fort Augustus PH32 4DG www.moragslodge.com 01320 366289 Glen Affric Youth Hostel Allt Beithe, Glen Affric, Cannich, Beauly IV4 7ND www.hostellingscotland.org.uk 0345 293 7373 Schoolhouse, Duag Bridge Bothy (no facilities) LR20: NH 340 975 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-highlands/schoolhouse-duag-bridge/

B&Bs Abbey Cottage Bed & Breakfast Fort Augustus PH32 4BD www.abbeycottagelochness.co.uk 01320 310524 Graineag Bed And Breakfast Inverness IV63 7YJ 01320 340295 Binnilidh Mhor B&B Dalchreichart, Glenmoriston near Loch Ness, Dalchreichart IV63 7YJ www.binmhor.co.uk 01320 340269 The Tomich Hotel Cannich, Beauly IV4 7LY www.tomichhotel.co.uk 01456 415399 Kerrow House B&B in the Scottish Highlands Nr. Glen Affric Cannich, Beauly, Inverness IV4 7NA www.kerrow-house.co.uk 01456 415243

Westward B&B Cannich Bridge, Beauly IV4 7LT www.westwardbb.co.uk 01456 415708 Cnoc Hotel Beauly IV4 7JU www.thecnochotel.co.uk 01463 761264 Balloan House Hotel Ord Road, Marybank, Muir of Ord IV6 7UW www.balloanhouse.co.uk 01997 433696 Birchgrove B&B IV6 7UL Marybank by, Upper Arcan Road, Muir of Ord IV6 7UW www.bandbbirchgrove-muiroford.co.uk 01997 433245 Tiree House B&B Wester moy, Urray, Muir of Ord IV6 7UX 01997 433410 Achilty Guest House Contin, Strathpeffer IV14 9EG 01997 421839 The Old Manse B&B Garve IV23 2PX www.garve-oldmanse.co.uk 01997 414201 Silverbridge Lodge Bed and Breakfast Off A835 Silverbridge, Garve IV23 2PU 01997 414714 Inchbae Lodge Inn Garve IV23 2PH www.inchbaelodgeinn.co.uk 01997 455070 Aultguish Inn Main Road, Garve IV23 2PQ www.aultguish.co.uk 01997 455254 The Oykel Bridge Hotel A837, Lairg IV27 4HE www.oykelbridgehotel.com 01549 441218 Achness Hotel Rosehall, Lairg IV27 4BD www.achnesshotel.co.uk 01549 441239 145

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Refreshments The Boathouse Lochside Restaurant Fort Augustus, Inverness-shire. PH32 4BD www.lochnessboathouse.co.uk 01320 366682 Redburn Café & Gifts Dundreggan Inverness-shire, The Bungalows, Glenmoriston, Inverness IV63 7YJ 01320 340376 The Coach House Café Tomich, Beauly IV4 7LF www.tomich-holidays.co.uk 01456 415459 Bog Cotton Café Cannich Caravan and Camping Park, Beauly IV4 7LN The Slaters Arms Cannich IV4 7LN www.slatersarms.com 01456 415215 The Struy Inn A831, Beauly IV4 7JU www.thestruy.co.uk Museum Café Strathpeffer IV14 9DH 07557 505264 Tarvie Services Inchdrean, Tarvie IV14 9EJ 01997 423342 Out of the Blue Catering Stirling Dr, Garve IV23 2PP www.outofthebluecatering.com 07830 001707 Inchbae Lodge Inn Garve IV23 2PH www.inchbaelodgeinn.co.uk The Oykel Bridge Hotel A837, Lairg IV27 4HE www.oykelbridgehotel.com

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Achness Hotel Rosehall, Lairg IV27 4BD www.achnesshotel.co.uk 01549 441239

Bike Shops Ness e’bikes at Girvans Hardware Girvans Hardware, Fort William Road, Fort Augustus PH32 4BH www.girvanshardware.co.uk 01320 366864 Square Wheels The Square, Strathpeffer IV14 9DW www.squarewheels.biz 01997 421000

Railway Stations Beauly Muir of Ord Conon Bridge Dingwall Garve Lochluichart Culrain 8Invershin Lairg

Sutherland & Caithness PART EIGHT

John o' Groats

Cape Wrath Durness

Cape Wrath Lighthouse

Duncansby Head

Thurso

Balnakiel Craft Village Smoo Cave

Lyth Arts Centre

Lotte Glob Sculpture Croft

Wick Forsinard Flows Visitor Centre

LOCH CHOIRE CHALLENGE LOOP

Lairg Oykel Bridge

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10 Miles 20 Kilometres

urces: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen, Rijkswaterstaat, GSA, Geoland, FEMA, Intermap and the GIS user community, Sources: Esri, HERE, Garmin, FAO, NOAA, USGS, © OpenStreetMap contributors, and the GIS User Community

Sutherland & Caithness: Route Overview

Oykel Bridge to Cape Wrath or John o’ Groats To Cape Wrath: Distance: 133km Ascent: 2,372m To John o ‘Groats: Distance: 218km Ascent: 2,621m To John o’ Groats via Loch Choire challenge loop: Distance: 228km Ascent: 2,783m 148

Area information and route summary In this final section of the Great North Trail, the route is still very remote and wild, although with some easier and flatter sections, and good trails. This makes the pace faster. It continues to be a rewarding

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

and exciting experience as you explore the long and remote glens, passing hidden hydropower stations and admiring far-flung lodges, not to mention the many shimmering lochs just waiting for you to break their mirror-like surface and plunge in for a refreshing and invigorating dip. Along with this raw beauty and freedom come very few and far between facilities, though, so you need to be well-prepared, book and plan ahead, and be mindful of the weather conditions. With so little shelter from both the rain and the wind, the flat and exposed terrain of the far north-east can become very hostile, and if you have a headwind, it will significantly slow your progress.

This journey lets you choose the ending to your story, though. Will you go for the popular John oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Groats, the most north-easterly point of mainland Scotland, or Cape Wrath, the quiet, remote and most north-westerly point? 149

Cycling UK

Cape Wrath is a spectacular end point and offers more off-road riding in comparison to the John o’ Groats route, which relies more on remote singletrack roads. 150

Getting to Cape Wrath may be out of your hands in the end, however. Rough seas might stop the small ferry from taking you over or the MoD, who own the land, may be running exercises and close off the peninsula to the general public. If you make it to the lighthouse, though, views of the wild sea, a café and a wonderful remote bothy on the beach await, and you will also be eligible to join the Cape Wrath Fellowship. The journey to John o’ Groats may be further, but with mostly quiet singletrack roads, good tracks across this now much flatter land and with the end in sight, it will fly by. Those who don’t like to do things the easy way can add a tougher loop into the finish going via Loch Choire. It’s a hardfought battle into the wilds, but it provides

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

Navigation As with the previous section, navigation is relatively simple, passing along quiet glens, with only a few limited route choices to make. However, it is often imperative that you make the right choice, as the remote location and lack of mobile reception could potentially be very dangerous.

Difficulty rating Technically, the riding is not very challenging, but it is increasingly more remote, with long stretches between civilisations. First section to route split: Oykel Bridge to Duchally Lodge Duchally Lodge to Loch a’ Ghriama Loch a’ Ghriama to West Merkland Cape Wrath option: West Merkland to Cape Wrath (Red crossing the Strathmore River at Cashel Dhu) John o’ Groats option: West Merkland to Gobernuisgach Lodge

Duncansby Head As you’d expect from the most northeasterly part of the British mainland (it’s more north-easterly than John o’ Groats itself), this place is wild, natural and its views are unmissable, especially of The Stacks of Duncansby, a group of tall, jagged rock pillars rising from the sea. www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/ johnogroats/duncansbyhead/index.html

Best for Exploring quiet, remote glens and lochs and the rugged north coastline.

Gobernuisgach Lodge to Forsinard trails Loch Choire option (from the Crask Inn to Badanloch Lodge) Forsinard trails to Loch More (road) Loch More to John o’ Groats

one last adventure into the hills, with the reward of a superb descent and a little less tarmac. John o’ Groats may be the famous destination, but we recommend making the short detour to Duncansby Head for your own more personal, wild and natural finish line on top of the cliffs by the lighthouse and overlooking the majestic North Sea, before settling down with your (well-earned!) fish and chips. 151

Lairg 0 0

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Oykel Bridge

10 Kilometres

Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrels

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 1

Oykel Bridge to Altnacaillich Distance: 65km

Strath Oykel From Oykel Bridge, you spin along the A837 road. Although this sounds like a nasty major road, it is actually a pleasant singletrack which follows alongside the Strath Oykel, all the way to Rosehall. The route is short on facilities, so it’s worth popping into the Invercassley stores, maybe phoning ahead to check they’re open (01549 441338). Rosehall is well-known for the wonderful Achness Waterfall and its salmon. At the right time of year, you can see these powerful fish leap between the pools as they make their way up the falls.

There are also the remains of a broch, a prehistoric stone roundhouse. Brochs date from around 2,000 to 1,900 years ago and are found mainly in north and west Scotland. The double-skinned drystone walls support each other, enabling a tall building in a relatively lightweight form. It is thought their inhabitants were of a high social status, although much is still unknown about them. There is not much left of the (Pictish) broch here, but the Dun Dornaigil Broch on the route to Cape Wrath, and just off the John o’ Groats route is virtually complete.

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Glen Cassley The road continues up the long Glen Cassley, past Glencassley Castle – which isn’t a castle but a large house – to Duchally Lodge, where the tarmac gives way to a rougher track, leading to a hydropower station. A stiff zig-zag climb up the tarmac road here leads you up and over the hillside of Moavally, and continues down the smoothly surfaced road, around the northern tip of Loch Shin where, once you get through the difficult gate, you re-join a public road.

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The route heads left on the A838, although if needed, you can head right for 3km to the Overscaig House hotel for refreshments, and then return to this point. Beware: there are no other refreshments available to buy until Altnaharra Hotel (or Durness, if you’re heading to Cape Wrath). After following the road north along the loch, you head off into the wild once more at West Merkland on a gravel track, past the ‘No through road’ sign. This is an

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

amazing stretch of trail. After climbing up into the hills, a good undulating track leads you alongside the Bealach nam Meirleach loch, down below mountain peaks either side, guiding you along the valley. As the track swings left, the awe-inspiring rocky face of Suil a’ Bhadain Duinn comes into view on the north-eastern side of Beinn Direach, and as you skirt around the bottom, it’s worth stopping and admiring the size and beauty of it.

The route continues past Gobernuisgach Lodge where there are some wonderful, life-size scrap metal sculptures of wolves in the grounds, leading you to the split in the trail: north (left on the road) will take you to Cape Wrath, continuing on the An Turas Mor route, while going right on the road will continue your journey on to John o’ Groats.

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Cape Wrath Cape Wrath Lighthouse

Balnakiel Craft Village

Smoo Cave

Durness

Lotte Glob Sculpture Croft

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Sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelse

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 2

Altnacaillich to Cape Wrath Distance: 65km

Cape Wrath finish From the splitting point (see left), head left, down the quiet and minor road, shortly passing the Dun Dornaigil Broch, one of the best preserved brochs in northern Scotland, and continue towards Loch Hope. Shortly before reaching the loch, though, the route heads off-road, down to the Strathmore River, at Cashel Dhu, where you have to ford the river. This wide crossing is not really rideable at the best of times, and likely not to be passable in or after wet conditions, in which case you will have to use the road around Loch Hope. Over the water, the good, wide track heads uphill, providing wonderful views, although

there are a few deer gates along the way. As you crest the top of the hill, beautiful views across the north coast appear overlooking Loch Eriboll, and the big descent down to the coast which awaits you. This fast and furious drop delivers you to the north coastal road, a singletrack which undulates along the stunning north coastline, with its numerous quiet beaches, where the turquoise sea laps at the bright white sand. There is quite a way to go on this road until you reach Durness, but you shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t resist taking a moment off the bike to enjoy one of these deserted coves all to yourself.

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Smoo Cave: Don’t miss this spectacular limestone cavern while at Durness.

Just beyond Durness at Keoldale, you need to take the tiny ferry over to the Cape Wrath peninsula, to continue and complete your journey. If the ferry is running, that is: it’s dependent on the time of year and weather. When operating, though, this family-run little ferry will take you and your bicycle across for (at time of writing) £10. It’s then a 17.7km cycle along a quiet singletrack, first built in 1826 and last updated in the 1950s. This will take you to Scotland’s most remote mainland lighthouse standing tall above majestic cliffs at the end of the trail. Your arrival might be delayed, though, not just by the weather, but also if the MoD firing range is in operation. You can find out the times at the ferry pier in Keoldale, but a far better way is to check and plan ahead of your travel. The hassle will be worth it as this wonderful remote place is an ideal destination to draw your journey to a close, with stunning views of the wild, remote and rugged coastline, and there is even a café here, open 24/7. Cape Wrath ferry runs from Keoldale Pier, May-Sept. See www.capewrathferry.wordpress.com. Cape Wrath peninsula and the MoD: consult the MoD website www.visitcapewrath.com for firing times. 158

Cape Wrath Peninsula Coming off the ferry onto the concrete jetty, you’ve an initial steep climb on a battered track. This will reward you with sweeping views across the white sands back to Keoldale and north into Balnakeil Bay. Say farewell to the sea for the moment, as a swift decent takes you away from civilisation and into the beginning of the peninsula’s wilderness. The rugged road rumbles over a wooden bridge and climbs again to the west, which will be the direction you’ll head until you reach the lighthouse. Just before the three-mile marker (see if you can spot them all!), you’ll encounter signs warning you not to touch any “military debris”, which is sensible advice to follow. Cape Wrath is a Special Protection Area, Special Area of Conservation and a Site of Special Scientific interest – so all-in-all, a pretty special place. Take your time to soak in this untouched landscape with its vast open skies and undulating road. At about 11km, you’ll notice a turning taking you due north to Kearvaig Bay and Kearvaig bothy. Unless planning on an early end to the day, continue down the hill and stay true to the road.

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

Enter the Cape Wrath Fellowship

The Kearvaig bothy sits off the bleak moorland on the beautiful shores of Kearvaig Bay. Surrounded by the sea and dark rocks, and sandstone pinnacles of the 40m high Stack Clo Kearvaig, you may see puffins nesting in the cliffs over the summer months, and it is not unknown for visitors to spot Arctic skuas, white-tailed eagles and sea eagles in the area. The bothy itself offers absolutely stunning, but very remote and basic accommodation – if you’re planning on a fire, best bring your own combustibles. Round the 163m of Dùnan Mòr, it’s not just the vast seascape that opens up: you will finally glimpse your destination and its surrounding compound. Unless the weather is awful, you’ll want to take advantage of some of the many stopping places along the way to soak in the view and your achievement.

Cape Wrath Lighthouse Beautifully remote, and a rewarding sight after your epic journey, this lighthouse looks out to a wild and rugged coastline. It was built by Robert Stevenson in 1828 and stands at the most north-westerly point on the British mainland. www.nlb.org.uk/lighthouses /cape-wrath/

The final thing to do is ride the last section up to the lighthouse and take a photo of yourself and your bike to enter the Cape Wrath Fellowship, before parking up and entering the Ozone Café for a well-deserved cuppa. If you don’t fancy the ride back to the boat, camping or heading to Kearvaig, this 24/7 café has a comfortable bunk room for six – a true shelter from the storm. The Cape Wrath Fellowship was established in 1949 by cycling journalist Rex “Ragged Staff” Coley, who wanted to encourage more adventurous cycling. Originally, entry required obtaining a signature from the lighthouse keeper, but as the lighthouse is now unmanned, a simple photo of you and your bike is all that’s needed. Send the photo to Cycling UK and we’ll enter you into the Fellowship www.cyclinguk.org/capewrath Returning from Cape Wrath/Durness is most easily achieved by using the community bus service which can carry bicycles. This will take you to Inverness, where these is a train station. You will need to book ahead at www.thedurnessbus.com. 159

Forsinard Flows Visitor Centre

LOCH CHOIRE CHALLENGE LOOP

Lairg 0 Oykel Bridge

5 Miles

10 Kilometres

Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 3

Altnacaillich to Forsinard Station Distance: 80km

John o’ Groats finish To ride to John o’ Groats, head right after Gobernuisgach Lodge, and follow a nice little singletrack road which rolls across the flat, exposed and barren moorland, crossing this eerily quiet and remote land. The road winds its way to a small collection of houses where the Altnaharra Hotel and Ghillies Bar is a welcome sight, offering food and drink to non-residents, and the chance to contemplate your next move as you now have two options for your onward journey. 160

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness

Option one The simplest move is to follow the B873 road along the northern shores of Loch Naver, for a beautiful and picturesque ride along this undulating singletrack road. When the loch ends, the road continues along the River Naver, up the valley to Syre, where a small corrugated church stands. Joining the B871 road here leads you on more remote roads to Badanloch Lodge, where the routes re-meet. There are many of these small prefabricated corrugated iron churches in the remote highlands. They are quick, easy and cheap to erect, and more churches were needed when the Church of Scotland experienced a series of secession and schisms (formal divisions in the church).

Option two Alternative (harder) route via Loch Choire: this heads south along the road to The Crask Inn, where it would be wise to get some refreshments before venturing off out into the wild moors on the rough grassy track that lies just beyond the pub. The rutted grassy track, although flat, is hard-going even in the best of conditions. The lumps and bumps batter any pedalling rhythm out of your legs, while the boggy sections sap away any speed or momentum you may achieve, and some are filled with all sorts of old rubbish just to allow you to cross without sinking into the abyss. Narrow footbridges are often no more than old planks, some of which are broken, and then the grassy trail disappears. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll probably be forced to walking before the ascending begins, but once you start to rise higher the ground improves. You then reach the Bealach Easach pass overlooking the loch below and, more importantly, the nice long rocky singletrack trail to its left hand side. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fun and technical descent, which sadly doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go on for long enough, but it joins a good track around the shores of Loch Choire which whizzes you along to Loch Choire House, although some attractive little beaches along the loch which will try to tempt you in. At Choire House, the trail improves further, providing a hard dirt and stone track, with easy navigation along the long, flat terrain. 161

John o' Groats Duncansby Head

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Lyth Arts Centre

Forsinard Flows Visitor Centre

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Oykel Bridge to Finish: Section 4

Forsinard Station to John o’ Groats Distance: 83km

Forsinard Flows Visitor Centre and Lookout Tower RSPB cares for more than 21,000 hectares of the surrounding area here, while the Flows Lookout Tower (built 2015) gives you a stunning view of the peatland landscape. Refreshments are available at the reserve visitor centre, and there’s also a privately run tearoom. www.rspb.org.uk/forsinard 162

Forsinard Flows Leaving the hills behind you, the terrain now becomes very different, with a vast swathe of open, barren land lying ahead as far as you can see. The beige grasses sway in the wind, which blows across this epic landscape where nothing else is to be seen except for some hills far off in the distance. It looks to stretch on forever, so it is reassuring to see a sign showing that Crask Inn is 23km back the way you came, and Badanloch 10km onwards. It’s another 10km of this

Part 8: Sutherland & Caithness good track, though, so it is easy-going unless there is a headwind blowing, to the B871 road at Badanloch Lodge. You re-join the other option of the route here and continue down the valley on this singletrack road to the small village of Kinbrace, where there is a railway station. There, you join the A897. This ‘main’ A897 road is another quiet singletrack road, which heads north to Forsinard where you’ll find the Station Cottage Tearoom and the Flows Lookout Tower. (See more information opposite). Forsinard Flows Nature Reserve: The wild and desolate-looking landscape you’re riding through forms part of the unique landscape of the Flow Country. This blanket peat bog is an internationally important habitat, and at the visitor centre at Forsinard Station you can find out what is being done to protect it. Open 9-5 daily between April and October. www.rspb.org.uk/forsinard

Another 5km of this ‘main’ road and you are back off the road, on a good track heading into the wilderness once more. Some of the forest has been felled, so rather than a sheltered ride that the OS map might suggest, it is exposed, open and flat terrain which allows for far-reaching views across this remote and barren land. This wild and lonely track is well-surfaced and easy-riding (unless the wind is in your face), and little blue directional arrows keep popping up to ensure you are heading the right way to Altnabreac Station. The track continues past the station, skirting around a whole number of lochs until it eventually meets a minor road, crossing more open, flat ground. It’s no surprise to see a wind farm making the most of this exposure, with its huge blades all spinning gently on the horizon.

John o’ Groats The route is now on the road to John o’ Groats and you simply follow the B870 as it winds its way to the far north-eastern end of the country. The surroundings become lush and green once again, with sheep filling the fields, and houses and farms becoming more common. After crossing the B876 road there really is a ‘home straight’ of around 15km following a road which straight-lines it to the north coast. All that’s left to do is ride some quiet back roads that deliver you to your destination, John o’ Groats village. However, before you ride to the obligatory signpost and compulsory photo, and settling down with some fish & chips, there is one last bit definitely worth riding: John o’ Groats may be the most north-easterly inhabited place and the better known but, being a busy commercial tourist attraction, it may not be quite the right ending for such an epic and wild adventure. 163

Cycling UK So, pedal on, down a lovely little rolling road that leads you out to Duncansby Head, the most north-easterly part of the British mainland and a beautiful, wild and natural location, on top of the cliff tops by a lighthouse. This magical place is a far more fitting finish to your journey: you can sit down on the cliff tops and gaze out to sea, while reflecting on the amazing ride that has brought you here. By the way, the best views at Duncansby Head are not out to the north as you might imagine, but to the south. Head over the higher ground behind the lighthouse,

following a well-trodden path, which will lead you to the Geo of Sclaites, a deep inlet into the cliffs. A little further on is a stunning view to Thirle Door, a rocky arch, and the Stacks of Duncansby, a group of high, jagged rock pillars rising from the sea, while kittiwakes and fulmars flit through the sky. Recommended refreshments and accommodation in John o’ Groats: Stacks Bistro, a family-run coffee house; and Natural Retreats, which offers contemporary, open-plan, self-catering apartments with sea views and wood-burning stoves.

John o ‘Groats This busy tourist village is further back from Duncansby Head, but its signpost is where many people stop for a photo to mark their journey’s end. It’s a good base for exploring the area’s wildlife and stunning coastal scenery. www.visitjohnogroats.com 164

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Cape Wrath route Directory Campsites Sango Sands Oasis Durness IV27 4PZ www.sangosands.com Laid Caravan Club Campsite Loch Eriboll, 94 Laid, Loch Eriboll, Lairg IV27 4UN

Hostels & Bothies Strabeg Bothy (no facilities) LR9: NC 391 518 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/ northern-highlands/strabeg/ Kearvaig Bothy (no facilities) LR9: NC 292 727 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/ northern-highlands/kearvaig/ Durness Smoo Youth Hostel A838, Durness, Lairg IV27 4QA www.hostellingscotland.org.uk/ hostels/durness-smoo/ 01971 511264 Lazy Crofter Bunkhouse Durness IV27 4PN www.visitdurness.com/bunkhouse

Glengolly Bed & Breakfast Durness, Lairg IV27 4PN www.glengolly.com 01971 511255 Fashven B&B Durness, Lairg IV27 4PN 01971 511216

Refreshments Tearoom Lairg IV27 4UN 01971 511235 White Heather Café, Bed & Breakfast A838, Lairg IV27 4QA 01971 511251 MEET AND EAT Café and restaurant 17c Balnakeil Craft Village, Balnakeil, Lairg IV27 4PT 01971 511473 Cocoa Mountain Balnakeil Balnakeil Craft Village, Balnakeil, Durness IV27 4PT www.cocoamountain.co.uk 01971 511233 Ozone Café (Cape Wrath Lighthouse) Cape Wrath, Durness, Lairg IV27 4QQ 01971 511314

Hotels/B&Bs White Heather Café, Bed & Breakfast A838, Lairg IV27 4QA 01971 511251 Glenaladale Bed And Breakfast 99A Laid, Loch Eriboll, Lairg IV27 4UN 01971 511329 Smoo Cave Hotel Lairg IV27 4QB www.smoocavehotel.co.uk 01971 511227

Bike Shops Durness Bike Hub (rentals) A838, Durness, Lairg IV27 4PS No trains: Durness Bus takes bikes www.thedurnessbus.com

Railway Stations No trains: Durness Bus takes bikes www.thedurnessbus.com

Smoo Lodge B&B A838, Durness, Lairg IV27 4QA www.smoolodge.co.uk 01971 511423 Hillside B&B Hillside, Durness, Lairg IV27 4QA 01971 511737

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John o’ Groats route Directory Campsites

Hotels/B&Bs

Murkle Caravan Park Ivy Cottage, Murkle, Thurso KW14 8SP www.murklecaravanpark.co.uk 07522 313559

The Oykel Bridge Hotel A837, Lairg IV27 4HE www.oykelbridgehotel.com 01549 441218

Wick Caravan & Camping Site Riverside Drive, Wick KW1 5SP www.wickcaravansite.co.uk 01955 605420

Invercassley Cottage B&B Rosehall, Lairg IV27 4BD www.invercassleycottage.co.uk 01549 475080

Hillside Camping Pods Ceol Na Mara Hillside, Auckengill, Wick KW1 4XP 07519 981436 Windhaven Café, Camping and B&B Windhaven, Brough, Thurso KW14 8YE www.windhaven.co.uk 07894 294803 Stroma View Wick KW1 4YL www.stromaview.co.uk 01955 611313 John o’ Groats Caravan and Camping Site County Road, John o’ Groats KW1 4YR www.johnogroatscampsite.co.uk 01955 611329

Hostels & Bothies Kyle of Tongue Hostel and Holiday Park Tongue, Lairg IV27 4XH www.hostellingscotland.org.uk/hostels/tongue/ 01847 611789

The Overscaig House Hotel Loch Shin, Sutherland IV27 4NY www.overscaig.com 01549 431203 The Crask Inn Lairg IV27 4AB www.thecraskinn.com 01549 411241 The Altnaharra Hotel Altnaharra, Lairg IV27 4UF www.altnaharra.com 01549 411222 Altnaharra B&B 1 Macleod Crescent, Altnaharra, Lairg IV27 4UG www.altnaharra.net 01549 411258 The Garvault Country House Hotel B871, Kinbrace KW11 6U www.garvaulthouse.uk 07596 202171 Ulbster Arms Hotel Ltd Bridge Street, Halkirk KW12 6XY www.ulbsterarmshotel.co.uk 01847 831641

Achnanclach Bothy (no facilities) LR10: NC 631 511 www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-highlands/achnanclach/

The Brown Trout Hotel Station Road, Wick KW1 5YN www.thebrowntrouthotel.co.uk 01955 621354

Bower Wigwams Wick KW1 4TP www.wigwamholidays.com 01955 641230

Castletown Hotel Main Street, Castletown, Thurso KW14 8TP www.castletownhotel.co.uk 01847 821656

Sandra’s Backpackers Princess Street, Caithness KW14 7BQ www.sandras-backpackers.co.uk 01847 894575

Bank Guest House 28 Bridge Street, Wick KW1 4NG www.bed-and-breakfast-wick.co.uk 01955 604001 Queens Hotel 16 Francis Street, Wick KW1 5PZ www.queenshotelwick.co.uk 01955 602992

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Alba Sunrise Guest house Keiss Mains, Nybster, Wick KW1 4XP www.albasunrisebandb.co.uk 01955 631340

The Garvault Country House Hotel B871, Kinbrace KW11 6U www.garvaulthouse.uk 07596 202171

Bencorragh House Upper Gills, Canisbay, By, John o’ Groats, Wick KW1 4YD www.bencorraghhouse.com 01955 611449

Forsinard Flows Visitor Centre Café Forsinard KW13 6YT www.rspb.org.uk/reserves-and-events/ reserves-a-z/forsinard-flows/ 01641 571225

RetreatOnThe500 Bed and Breakfast Brambridge, Kirkstyle, Canisbay, Wick KW1 4YB www.retreatonthe500.co.uk 01955 611751

The Brown Trout Hotel Station Road, Wick KW1 5YN www.thebrowntrouthotel.co.uk 01955 621354

John o’ Groats Guest House A99, John o’ Groats, Wick KW1 4YR www.johnogroatsguesthouse.com 01955 611251

The Crazy Hog Halkirk KW12 6WU 07733 085252

The Anchorage East End, John o’ Groats, KW1 4YS www.theanchoragejohnogroats.co.uk 01955 611384 Natural Retreats John o’ Groats, Wick KW1 4YR www.togethertravel.co.uk/destinations/ scotland/john-ogroats 01625 416430

Refreshments The Oykel Bridge Hotel A837, Lairg IV27 4HE www.oykelbridgehotel.com 01549 441218 The Crask Inn Lairg IV27 4AB www.thecraskinn.com 01549 411241 Tongue Stores and Post Office Main Road, Lairg IV27 4XQ 01847 611201 Thurso Community Café Thurso Harbour, Harbour Ct, Thurso KW14 8DE 01847 892500 Wickers World 21 Harbour Quay, Wick KW1 5EP 01955 602433 Bridge Street Café 29 Bridge Street, Wick KW1 4AJ 01955 604644

Castle Arms Hotel Mey, Thurso KW14 8XH www.castlearmshotel.co.uk 01847 851244 Castletown Hotel Main Street, Castletown, Thurso KW14 8TP www.castletownhotel.co.uk 01847 821656 Stacks Coffee House and Bistro 3, Craft Centre, John o’ Groats, Wick KW1 4YR www.facebook.com/stacksbistro/ 01955 611582

Bike Shops The Bike Shop 35 High Street, Thurso KW14 8AZ www.facebook.com/thebikeshopthurso/ 01847 895385 The Spot Cycle Shop Francis Street, Wick KW1 5PZ 01955 602698

Train Stations Kinbrace Forsinard Altnabreac Scotscalder Georgemas Junction Wick ThursoWhite 167

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The Great North Trail – Credits Route researched by Kieran Foster, Cycling UK Written by Max Darkins www.roughrideguide.co.uk Edited by Cherry Allan, Duncan Dollimore, Sam Jones and Sophie Gordon Additional places directories researched by Sophie Gordon and Keir Gallagher Designed by Roger Morgan www.morgan-creative.co.uk Maps created by Sophie Gordon Mapping data sources: Esri, Airbus DS, USGS, NGA, NASA, CGIAR, N Robinson, NCEAS, NLS, OS, NMA, Geodatastyrelsen, Rijkswaterstaat, GSA, Geoland, FEMA, Intermap, HERE, Garmin, FAO, NOAA, USGS, Google Earth, OpenStreetMap contributors and the GIS user community. With thanks to: Obscura Mondo Cycle Club for developing the An Turas Mor route and suggesting we include it in the Great North Trail. www.anturasmor.co.uk Ted Liddle for route advice and assistance Numerous staff at government departments, AONBs, National Parks and Rights of Way departments along the route for their advice and support Max Darkins for test-riding the route Everyone who volunteered their time to appear in the images in this guide

Image credits Cover image and inside page Image by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK Introduction All images by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK Part 1 All images by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK except: P.14, Peak District trails courtesy of Peak District National Park Authority; p.15, inset image by Smabs Sputzer via Flickr Creative Commons (CC BY 2.0); p.17, Middleton Top Engine House by Andrew (CC BY 2.0) and family cycling courtesy of Peak District National Park Authority; p.18, Arbor Low stone circle by Nigel Dibb (CC BY SA 2.0); p.19, Monsal Head viaduct and Litton Mill by Eamon Curry (CC BY 2.0); p.21, top image by Smabs Sputzer (CC BY 2.0) and Jacob’s Ladder by Colin Down / Flattyres MTB; p.23 by Paul Stevenson (CC BY 2.0); p.24, Blue John Cavern by PC Media One (CC BY SA 2.0); p.28, Hardcastle Crags by Phil Long (CC BY SA 2.0); p.29, Gaddings Dam by Michael Graham (CC BY SA 2.0). Part 2 All images by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK except: P.39, family cycling courtesy of Peak District National Park Authority; p.41, Malham Tarn by Andy Rothwell (CC BY SA 2.0); p.43 by Rob Stephens (CC BY 2.0); p.45 Malham Tarn by Andy Rothwell (CC BY SA 2.0) and limestone pavement by Andy Kay / Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority; p.46 by Mountaintreks / Shutterstock; p.47, Craven Lime Works by George Robertson; p.48 by Matt Cant / Visit Britain; p.49, Arten Gill Viaduct by Lee Beel / Visit Britain; p.51 by Andy Kay / Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority; p.52, Pendragon Castle by Andy Kay / Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority; p.53 by Peter Lawther (CC BY 2.0).

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Part 3 All images by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK except: P.60 by Mark Slater; P.64, mountain bikers by Mark Slater; p.68 by Joe Cornish / Visit Britain; p.69, Hadrian’s Cycleway by Ian Cameron (CC BY 2.0); p.72 by Patrick Baldwin (CC BY SA 2.0); p.73, Kielder Castle by Woody Ham (CC BY SA 2.0), Kielder Observatory by Tom Parnell (CC BY SA 2.0), Kielder Water by Glen Bowman (CC BY SA 2.0), bottom image by Robert Spanring / Cycling UK. Part 4 All images by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK except: P.79 by Nadir Khan / Visit Britain; p.84, background image by Steve Talas (CC BY 2.0) and Stobs military camp by Richard Webb (CC BY SA 2.0); p.85, Borders Textile Towerhouse by Craft Scotland (CC BY 2.0); p.88, inset by Nadir Khan / Visit Britain; p.93, National Museum of Scotland courtesy of This is Edinburgh and Arthur’s Seat by Magnus Hagdorn (CC BY SA 2.0); p.94, all images courtesy of This is Edinburgh; p.95 by Tom Parnell (CC BY SA 2.0). Part 5 All images by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK except: P.101 courtesy of Bridge 8 Hub; p.103, Union Canal by G Laird (CC BY SA 2.0) and Falkirk Wheel by Glen Bowman (CC BY SA 2.0); p.104, ice cream by Marit & Toomas Hinnosaar (CC BY 2.0) and Kelpies by Cliff Williams / Visit Britain; p.105, Avon Aqueduct by Magnus Hagdorn (CC BY SA 2.0) and Callendar trails courtesy of Callendar Estate; p.108, Riverside Museum by Craig Easton / Visit Britain, distillery by Tom Brejc / Visit Britain, Kelingrove Art Gallery and Museum courtesy of Glasgow Tourism. Part 6 All images by Max Darkins except: P.113 by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK; p.114 by Rod Edwards / Visit Britain; p.117 by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK; p.118, West Highland Way marker by Rod Edwards / Visit Britain, and Glengoyne Distillery courtesy of Glengoyne Distillery; p.119, Falls of Leny by Keith Loaf (CC BY ND 2.0); p.122 by Andrew Burton / Visit Britain; p.123, Falls of Dochart by Garioch (CC BY ND 2.0), Loch Ossian Youth Hostel courtesy of Hostelling Scotland, Corrour Station by Timothy Baldwin (CC BY SA 2.0); p.126, both images by Andrew Pickett / Visit Britain; p.127, top left image by Andrew Pickett / Visit Britain, family cycling by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK, Caledonian Canal by Greg Men (CC BY 2.0), pine marten by Mike Prince (CC BY 2.0). Part 7 All images by Max Darkins except: P.135, Contin mountain bike trails by Nadir Khan / Visit Britain; p.136, Plodda Falls by Dark Side of Pink / Shutterstock; p.137 by Nick Bramhall (CC BY SA 2.0); p.139, salmon by Mick Hall (CC BY 2.0); p.140, top image by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK, bottom image by Robbie Shade (CC BY 2.0); p.141 by PhotoVision / Shutterstock; p.143, top image by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK, café by Nadir Khan / Visit Britain; p.144, main image by Nick Bramhall (CC BY SA 2.0), inset by Neil Williamson (CC BY SA 2.0). Part 8 All images by Robert Spanring / Cycling UK except: P.148 by Joolze Dymond / Cycling UK; p.149, main image by Simaron (CC BY SA 2.0), Durness beach by D Wilkinson (CC BY 2.0); p.151, Duncansby Head by Iain Lees (CC BY SA 2.0); p.153, top image by Sylvia Duckworth (CC BY SA 2.0), main image by Laura Del (CC BY SA 2.0); p.154 by George Maciver / Shutterstock; p.157, top image by Andrew (CC BY 2.0), main image by Ruben Holthuijsen (CC BY 2.0); p.158 by D Wilkinson (CC BY 2.0); p.159, top image by Andy Parkes (CC BY SA 2.0), Cape Wrath lighthouse by Andrew (CC BY 2.0); p.160 by Ivor MacKenzie (CC BY SA 2.0); p.161, bottom image by Dave Napier (CC BY SA 2.0); p.162 by Stephan Ridgway (CC BY 2.0); p.163 by Matthew Perrin; p.164, top image by S Rae (CC BY SA 2.0), bottom image by Theo K (CC BY SA 2.0), John o’ Groats sign by Rob Faulkner (CC BY SA 2.0).

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