West Kernow Way Experience the best of West Cornwall on a 230km bikepacking adventure
Guy Kesteven
First published in the United Kingdom in 2021 by Cycling UK, Parklands, Railton Rd, Guildford GU2 9JX The West Kernow Way: Experience the best of West Cornwall on a 230km bikepacking adventure © 2021 Cycling UK Text © 2021 Cycling UK Photographs for full list of copyright see p.107 Route researched by Kieran Foster Route guide written by Guy Kesteven Edited by Sophie Gordon, Cherry Allan, Rob Kingston and Keir Gallagher Design by Roger Morgan www.morgan-creative.co.uk Maps produced by Kieran Foster Map data by Ordnance Survey © Crown copyright 2021 OS 100045061 Historical Bartholomew 1920s maps reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland under Creative Commons licence (CC-BY) Development of the West Kernow Way and the production of this route guide have been funded through EXPERIENCE, a €23.3 million project co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF, €16 million) through the Interreg VA France (Channel) England Programme 2014–2020. This project will harness the experiential tourism trend to extend the season (October–March), generating 20 million new off-season visitors spending €1 billion across six pilot regions in England and France by June 2023. With thanks to: National Trust and Natural England for agreeing to provide a permissive access route across the Lizard National Nature Reserve Cornwall Wildlife Trust, the Tin Coast Partnership and the Penwith Moors Partnership for feedback on the route The EXPERIENCE team at Cornwall Council British Horse Society volunteers who had already submitted Definitive Map Modification Applications for sections of the route, especially Adrian Biggs for all of his efforts All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any other information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. Printed and bound in the UK
Introduction
Welcome Cycling UK has been shouting about the joys and benefits of cycling in the countryside for 143 years. The machines might be different today, but the sense of adventure remains the same. We all know that cycling is fantastic, but it feels like 2020 was the year when everyone else discovered this. Lower traffic levels at the beginning of the Covid-19 lockdown inspired people to dust off that old bike in the shed and embrace the freedom of cycling. The coronavirus outbreak highlighted how much we value being able to get outdoors and connect with nature. For us at Cycling UK, it’s shown the importance of having a network of safe off-road routes to ride straight from your doorstep. We’re continuing to campaign for wider off-road access for cycling – both for local everyday rides, and for longer-distance adventures like the West Kernow Way. Cycling is the perfect way to really discover a place, and immerse yourself in the landscape, culture and history. As part of the EU-funded EXPERIENCE project, Cycling UK is developing new cycle hubs and promoted routes across Cornwall, Kent and Norfolk, enabling you to explore the unique character of each region in all seasons. We’re also supporting hospitality businesses along the routes to attract visitors on bikes and bounce back from the pandemic, by offering advice and equipment through the Cycle Friendly Places accreditation so you can be sure of a warm welcome. We’ve never been more aware of the simple joy and escape of discovering new places by bike. We hope you enjoy experiencing it for yourself on the West Kernow Way. Sarah Mitchell Chief Executive of Cycling UK
EXPERIENCE project As one of 14 partners on the EXPERIENCE project, Cycling UK is working to deliver sustainable new off-season tourism experiences and supporting businesses to attract cyclists with the Cycle Friendly Places accreditation. The €23.3 million project is co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF, €16 million) through the Interreg VA France (Channel) England Programme 2014–2020, and aims to boost visitor numbers in six pilot regions including Cornwall, Norfolk and Kent. cyclinguk.org/experience 3
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Contents Overview map........................................................................... 6 Introduction .............................................................................. 8 Part 1 – The Edge of the World ..................................... 22 Part 2 – Penwith Moors ..................................................... 32 Part 3 – The Loe ....................................................................... 46 Part 4 – Lizard Peninsula .................................................. 56 Part 5 – A Mining Moonscape ....................................... 74 Part 6 – Coast to Coast ....................................................... 84 Places and facilities ........................................................ 96 Suggested itineraries .................................................... 98 Image credits ...................................................................... 99 Afterword..................................................................................... 100 About the author..................................................................... 101
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West Kernow Way
Cycling UK
West Kernow Way Unlock the fascinating history and breathtaking beauty of the ancient kingdom of Kernow on this 230km adventure ride around the tip of Cornwall. The West Kernow Way starts in Penzance and links stunning coves, clifftop views, charming villages, mysterious moors, deserted back lanes and bewitching woods into an utterly unique and compelling story that stretches from the distant prehistoric to recent tales of tragic heroism. The figure-of-eight format heads out to the most south westerly point of the UK mainland at Land’s End, then loops back down to the most southerly at Lizard Point. From there, it rolls north right across the Cornish peninsula to the historic mining heartland of Redruth before heading south again to finish at the iconic island of St Michael’s Mount. While the tourist hotspots and main roads can be busy, the tracks and back roads that we’ve created this adventure from are often totally deserted, letting you immerse yourself in the mystery and 8
wildness of this rugged and proudly independent Celtic kingdom. The trail’s mix of testing gradients and varying surfaces make it perfect for gravel bikes or mountain bikes. The looping layout and plenty of suitable stopover points make it ideal for bikepacking over several days, or enjoying the three distinct sections in different stages. However, you do it, you’ll be guaranteed a warm Cornish welcome and mouthwatering local food from a land that the archaeology tells us has been greeting visitors from the furthest corners of the known world since the Stone Age. The West Kernow Way can also be combined with the routes radiating out from the Cycling UK EXPERIENCE hubs at Penzance and Helston to make the absolute most of your trip to the toe end of England.
Introduction
To help you plan your Cornish adventure, we’ve suggested two or three-night itineraries at the back of the book. You’ll find a cumulative mileage chart to each village and point of interest too, including the useful facilities available at each one.
Format of this guide We have split the route into different sections based on the geography and obvious overnight stop facilities. Each chapter provides a feel for the terrain to expect under your wheels, the history and scenery that will surround you, and background information for the many highlights of the route.
In addition to the GPX file you can download from the Cycling UK website, the narrative includes tips on how to stay on track to make navigation as easy and enjoyable as possible. We’ll also point out alternative route options, from bonus singletrack diversions, archaeological or panoramic viewpoint add-ons, and even shortcuts across sandbanks, foot ferries or historic mining trails. At the back of the printed route guide, you’ll find detailed maps showing the alternative options and to aid navigation on some of the more complicated off-road sections. However you choose to ride the route, we hope you enjoy riding it as much as we have. Download the GPX route file at cyclinguk.org/westkernowway 9
Cycling UK
Terrain The West Kernow Way uses a mixture of quiet lanes, cycle paths and bridleways that vary from smooth grass to loose rock or narrow singletrack sheep trails over moors. We’ve deliberately avoided any extreme technical sections, though, and we’d classify the route as a ‘blue’ difficulty rating using the off-road grading system (‘moderate’, suitable for people with some experience of off-road cycling, with some loose surfaces, ruts, roots, rocks and steep sections). The rugged Cornish landscape inevitably means there are lots of steep climbs and descents along the way too, and we’d recommend attaining a reasonable level of fitness (or some electric assistance) before starting if you want to enjoy it. The climbs are generally short though, so you can always push rather than pushing the pace, and most of the steepest parts are packed into the first half of the route. The granite base geology of the Cornish peninsula and predominantly rocky bed of most of the trails means most of the route isn’t massively affected by bad weather. That said, some of the moorland and heath sections of Penwith, the Lizard and south of Redruth will become sticky and slower when wet, and there are a few short sections that were very wet and boggy even in June. However, you’re generally never far from an easier-rolling road alternative, particularly in the second half of the route where there’s a whole maze of lanes to escape onto. 10
Introduction
Bike and kit The amount of diverse off-road riding and the route’s challenging nature means you’ll need a suitable bike. A gravel bike with 35mm or wider all-terrain tyres and wide ratio gears is the optimum choice in dry weather. As long as you’re prepared to be patient on the road sections, a lightweight hardtail mountain bike would be ideal for the off-road sections too, especially if the weather is likely to be against you. An e-bike can be a blessing on Cornwall’s hills, but bear in mind the weight – there are a few rough stretches where you could end up pushing or carrying the bike. There is a wealth of stopping opportunities to recharge, as long as you plan ahead so you don’t run out of battery on a 25% climb. Whatever bike you take, make sure it’s in good working order. Before turning up to Penzance, try out anything new to make sure it works. This applies to anything, whether it’s cycling shorts, tyres or a completely fresh bike.
Which kit to take obviously depends on your accommodation strategy, the season and how seasoned an adventurer you are. Be aware that while Cornwall enjoys relatively mild temperatures compared to the rest of the UK, it’s also wetter than average. The fact it sticks out into the Atlantic and the coast is never far away means that brutal weather can blow in with very little warning any time of the year. An extra warm layer and a weatherproof shell should be considered a minimum wardrobe requirement even in summer. In terms of carrying kit, some of the more rattling, rougher or narrow trails will definitely suit strap-on bikepacking bags or a backpack better than traditional bolt-on racks and panniers. Whatever luggage you choose, make sure you trial your setup on appropriate terrain beforehand as there’s nothing more frustrating than having to stop repeatedly to fix bits back on or trudge back up descents to find lost water bottles.
While there are several bike shops en route, it makes sense to brush up your basic maintenance skills and take essential spares – tubes, pump, repair kit, multitool including chain splitter and a small bottle of chain lube – if only to avoid irritating interruptions. 11
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Navigation The West Kernow Way isn’t signposted and for most of the length there are no waymarked routes to use as a guide either. Even when you get to the mining trails around Redruth, there are often several to choose between at different junctions. That makes loading the route GPX onto a GPS computer with a decent resolution screen and background mapping a big help for staying on track. You can’t always rely on electronics though, so a paper map is always a good idea. There are also annotated maps provided at the back of this guide to cover you for the more complicated bits. Even then, it’s a complicated landscape with a lot of 3D variation, so a small mistake can easily cost you a lot of effort. It’d be a shame to miss out on any of the interesting features and sights on the route, so we suggest you keep a very keen eye on your mapping rather than rushing along head down. We’ve also included navigation cues in the guidebook as well as the background info to make the most of the route’s stories, so reading the relevant sections before you ride the route each day will really help make the most of it. The route in the guide also includes some added extras and bonus suggestions that the downloaded GPX won’t.
Safety Our expert route planners have done an amazing job in creating a sense of adventure around the most wild and wonderful parts of Cornwall without undue risk. They’ve also kept exposure to busy traffic to an absolute minimum, making the most of barely used back roads and ancient byways for the vast majority of the route. We test-rode it and made a few changes before writing the guide, so you’ll find any potential hazards in each section flagged at the start of the relevant chapters. Mobile phone coverage is good along most of the journey and you’re never more than a few kilometres from a road or village, even though it may seem like you’ve time-travelled into different millennia at some points. Riding on or off road always has a level of risk though, and breaking your bike or yourself is never a good idea. Remember to always ride within your own limits and that of your equipment, and if in doubt get off and walk – whether that’s at one of the few busy road crossings or on a challenging trail section.
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Introduction The narrow lanes with their high banks and limited sightlines can sometimes be a squeeze, so go carefully around corners or down twisting descents and always keep an eye and ear out for approaching traffic. Flashing daytime lights can be a good idea on the hedgerow-shaded lanes. Riding in a group is always safer as well as more sociable, but if you’re going solo we’d suggest using a ‘beacon’ style tracker on your phone or GPS so someone else can keep a virtual eye on you. Finally but very importantly, you are responsible for the safety of any other
trail users as well as wildlife, as this route crosses several nature reserves and Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Always slow down or stop and say hello, whether that’s to walkers, horse riders or farmers in their yards. Pick up litter, reduce your riding impact as much as possible (go through puddles not around them) and follow the Countryside Code. After all, while many of the rights of way on this route are currently very rarely used, this trail is likely to cause an increase. Let’s make sure that has a positive impact rather than being seen a problem, to make it easier to develop further routes in the future.
Show respect for all other users
Practice low-impact cycling
Top tips for a great ride • Ride responsibly: Show respect for all other users, and take care of the environment. • Leave no trace: Practice low-impact cycling to protect trails and avoid wet and muddy trails. Keep to the line of existing marked paths, avoid skidding and take your litter home. • Control your bike: Stay focused, check your speed, and think about other people. • Avoid disturbing animals: Farm, pet and wild animals are startled by sudden noise, be considerate. Leave gates as you find them. • Plan ahead: Know your bike, your equipment, your ability and the area, and be prepared for the weather conditions. • Always give way: Let people know you are there. Pass wide and slow, particularly with horse riders and approach with caution on blind corners and descents. Remember – Be Nice, Say Hi! 13
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When is a footpath not a footpath? Unrecorded rights of way Across England and Wales, there are more than 49,000 miles of historic paths which have been used for centuries but aren’t officially recorded on the map. If they aren’t added by the cut-off date of 2026, they could be lost forever. There are also many bridleways and byways which were incorrectly recorded as footpaths when rights of way maps were being compiled in the 1950s. This means that although it might be marked as a footpath, there still exists a right to ride a bike or horse on them – but this right will be extinguished in 2026 if the map isn’t corrected. Very often, these lost routes can be found at parish boundaries, where the bridleway magically turns into a footpath, or the bridleway ends on a footpath or track for no obvious reason on what would otherwise be a through-route. In Cornwall, there are loads of these, leading to missing links in the network. 14
In several places, the West Kernow Way uses these historic routes to link together the best off-road options. For each of them, we have looked at the evidence for the existence of a right of way, and the physical suitability of the route, and assess that there is a strong case for the existence of an unrecorded missing link. Some of these are currently recorded as footpaths (crucially, section 56 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act confirms that recorded status is without prejudice to the existence of higher rights), and some aren’t on the rights of way map at all. In every case, there is either an existing application for a Definitive Map Modification Order, or Cycling UK has submitted one as part of our route development work. The system for processing these applications is complex and unwieldy, and councils have an average backlog of around fifteen years to go through them all. (As long as they are submitted before 2026, they will still be considered.)
Introduction
Access Opening up new sections of routes is a big part of what we do at Cycling UK, and there are several sections of this route where we’re still negotiating access based on historic rights of way or wrongful classification in the past. In other places such as the Lizard, we’ve worked with the National Trust and other land managers to find the best way for you to enjoy an area while reducing the ecological impact. That means in a few places you might find the route advising you to ride what’s marked on a map or by signposts as a footpath, or asking you to push through a section on foot rather than ride it. Again, how we behave as riders will make a big impact on future access issues, so be the best ambassador you can at all times. Given the priority that the Government and others have given to improved opportunities for accessing the outdoors, and the problems of increased motor traffic on the roads, it’s clear the current system isn’t working when it can take decades to upgrade one right of way. That’s why we have included these sections on the route on the basis of the evidenced historic rights.
Campaigning to increase off-road access for cycling is only possible because of our 70,000 members. If you want to support wider access to the outdoors and the creation of more long-distance trails, join Cycling UK today and help more people discover the joy of off-road riding. Find out more at cyclinguk.org/join
Find out more at cyclinguk.org/2026
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The world of West Kernow Kernow – the Cornish name for Cornwall – has had a far bigger significance than its size would suggest for as far back as the archaeological record extends. For several phases of its history, Kernow has also been at the cutting edge of global technology. Archaeological records say that its relatively warm climate, fertile land and rich seas on all sides made it one of the first areas to be settled by humans in the UK in the middle Stone Age (Mesolithic). There are cultural matches with other communities right up and down the Atlantic coast from Portugal to the Scottish islands, stretching from the Mesolithic period through to post-Roman times too. It was Cornwall’s crucial part in ending the Stone Age that really brought it to prominence, though. Rich deposits of the tin needed to turn decorative copper into bronze of a high enough quality for sharp tools, armour and weapons put it on the map for traders as far away as the eastern Mediterranean. It’s mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus around 500BC, and one legend even says that a young Jesus may have come here with metal trader Joseph of Arimathea. Like Ireland and Wales, it also became a key area in the growth of Christianity – hence all the saint’s names for places on the route. The Saxon times didn’t go so well, though, with Cornwall cut off from land access to Wales and many of the Celtic inhabitants fleeing to Brittany to the south. Its remoteness meant it was a pretty wild place with a reputation for piracy and highwaymen, as well as ‘wreckers’ who lured passing boats onto the rocks with false lighthouse beacons. It wasn’t until the development of the first steam engines to pump water out of the mines that Cornwall hit the big time again. Not only did its minerals – such as China Clay used in porcelain – become very important, but the knowledge of its 16
Introduction
Unlock the fascinating history and breathtaking beauty of the ancient kingdom of Kernow on this 230km adventure ride around the tip of Cornwall.
engineers and miners was sought after all over the world. That’s why you get entries from South America, Russia and even Australia in the annual Cornish pasty championships. The railways brought it in reach of holidaymakers in the Victorian period, and its beaches and coves have been super popular ever since. Being at the nearest point to America made it the ideal spot for communication experiments like the pioneering telegraph work at Porthcurno and Marconi’s radio towers at Poldhu. Even today, 22 of the world’s fastest undersea fibre optic cables come ashore in Cornwall.
The collapse of the mining and fishing industries hit Cornwall hard but the great news is that it’s definitely on the up again, with visitors appreciating its beautiful landscape, mild climate and welcoming people. More residents are proud to register in Census checks, the Cornish language is being spoken by more people and recent events like the G7 summit have also boosted Cornwall’s visibility. We’re delighted to be showing what a fantastic area it is for cycling too and, although it can take a while to get there from some parts of the country, we’re sure you’ll realise what a unique and magical place it is as soon as you start riding. 17
Cycling UK
Mên-an-Tol
Bal
Fogou
A quick Cornish lesson The Cornish language (or Kernewek) is a Celtic tongue related to Welsh and Breton. It faded out during the 18th century, but experienced a revival during the 20th century and more people are now learning it. Our brief dictionary below provides a bit of insight into the place names and labels you’ll see on the map. Als, Alt – a cliff Bal – a mine Bos – a homestead Bron – a hill Carn – a heap of rocks, Cairn Chy – a house Cos – a wood Dinas – a hill fort Du – black Enys – an island Fogou – a cave Goon – moorland Greeb – a crest Hal – a moor Kelly – a grove or copse Lan – a monastic enclosure 18
Maen or Mên – a stone Mên-an-Tol – a stone with a hole Mên scryfa – an inscribed stone Nans – a valley Pen – a headland Pol – a pool Porth – a cove Praze – a meadow or common Ruan – a river Towan – a sandhill Tol – a hole Tre – a house or dwelling place Treryn – a dwelling on a promontory Wheal – a mine or shaft Zawn – a chasm
Introduction
The Cornish pasty The signature self-contained meal of Kernow, the Cornish pasty, is actually a protected species that can only be chopped, wrapped, glazed and then baked into delicious life between Land’s End and the River Tamar. According to the Cornish pasty association regulatory body it can only be made with chopped or minced beef, potato, swede or turnip, onions and seasoning. The pastry case must be side (not top) crimped and then glazed with egg or milk to make it deep mine, field or seaworthy too. That said, you’ll get all sorts of fillings and flavours – and even nationalities – turning up at the World Pasty Championships held at the Eden Project in Bodelva every year on St Piran’s day. You’ll also find these super tasty, nutritious, semi-circular sources of national pride being sold in most places that Cornish miners and engineers emigrated to.
The cream tea The cream tea isn’t as exclusive to Cornwall as the pasty – it’s also associated with the neighbouring county of Devon – but it’s definitely our energy food of choice when we’re in the South West. While the default delivery device is now a freshly baked scone, the first
records suggest a ‘Cornish Split’ sweet bread being used instead and you’ll still find some places serving that today. Either way it’s served with clotted (not whipped) cream and strawberry jam, but make sure you layer them Cornish style (jam then cream) when you’re down Kernow way.
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Parts 1 and 2 overview
The Edge of the World PART ONE
Cycling UK
Part 1 – The Edge of the World
100m
Penzance to Land’s End Distance: 28km
50m 0m 0km
Ascent: 501m
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Highlights
0km Be aware
• Incredible coastal scenery • Beautiful coves and harbours • Mainland UK’s south-western point at Land’s End • Evocative prehistoric and maritime history • Deserted back roads • Spicy optional off-road sections
• There are some steep climbs, 150m including the first one out of 100m Mousehole which is a stinker
Navigation The route follows National Cycle Network Route 3 as far as the Merry Maidens stone circle and then there’s no signposting and you’re navigating on your own. Dodging traffic while linking together coves, harbours and high inland stone circles on a mix of road and off-road tracks is inevitably a complicated process. That means lots of twists and turns, often in quick succession, and with no waymarked trails to follow it’s up to you to stay alert and stay on track. 24
28km
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50m
• There are 0m some steep, twisty descents 0kmtoo, starting 10kmat Lamorna 23km • The seafront road from Penzance 100m to Wherrytown can be busy 50m • Villages and coves will be popular in summer and drivers may be 0m 0km 20km 40km 60km more preoccupied with finding parking spaces and ice cream than 200m watching for cyclists
150m when crossing the • Be patient 100m slow-moving but busy A30 50m above 0m Sennen Cove 0km
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Part 1: The Edge of the World
Visit Porthcurno with its pretty sandy cove, pubs and cafés, and the unique open air theatre looking out over the sea... Porthcurno
Area introduction and route summary The first part of the West Kernow Way is a condensed version of what you can expect for a lot of the ride. Once you’ve rolled out of Penzance and past Newlyn to Mousehole, which are beautiful, but a lot busier than the rest of the route, you hit the typical back lanes of Cornwall. Bordered by tall hedge walls bursting with flowers and wildlife and dipping in and out of verdant wooded valleys cut by crystal streams, these wonderful lanes will be the signature screen saver for most of your journey. They link a string of scenic and historical highlights too. From the busy working harbour of Newlyn, you wiggle through the picture perfect and wonderfully named harbour village of Mousehole (pronounced ‘mowzul’). From here, your legs get their first flame-grilling, and then your brakes get cooked on the tight, twisting, narrow descent into Lamorna, where you can divert to the beautiful cove at the end of the wooded valley. Then it’s a winch out again either off-road or on and past the Merry Maidens standing stone ring and chambered cairn. The Penwith Peninsula then throws in a few thatched cottages, ancient pubs and farms, another cove, and telegraph museum detour at Porthcurno, which you
can access via a wicked coast path with incredible views, if you’re brave. So, apart from a ruined tin mine (you’ll have to wait until part 2 for those) it pretty much ticks every box you could hope to see in Cornwall within the first fifteen kilometres. You then duck inland along more of those amazing lanes and across the main road before popping out above the surfers’ paradise of Sennen Cove. From here, it’s a short cycle path section overlooking the stunningly rugged granite cliffs of Gamper, past prehistoric standing stones and promontory forts to Land’s End itself. 25
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Mousehole
Penzance
Penzance to Mousehole You start your West Kernow Way adventure by the harbour in Penzance, which is right next to the railway and bus stations. Rolling away from the big red buoy, a short section of cycle path (this section of the route is also National Cycle Route 3) takes you to the coast road over the swing bridge that separates the inner and outer harbours. Then it’s past a selection of pirate themed pubs and takeaways behind the Art Deco splendour of the Jubilee open air swimming pool. It’s probably too early to take a bath yet, so roll along the beach front and peel off left onto the cycle path to Newlyn at the earliest opportunity. 26
The Penzance area was visited by Mesolithic hunters and settled by Neolithic people. Tax and fishing records show that Penzance and Newlyn were far less important and prosperous than Mousehole and Marazion at either side until the medieval period. Being chartered for a Royal Market in 1404 put Penzance on the map though, and it continued to grow even after being burned down by a raiding party from the Spanish Armada fleet in 1588. The arrival of the railway cemented its importance both in terms of tourism and express trains taking fresh fish and the flowers that bloom early in the kind climate back up to London. The eclectic mix of buildings, museums, subtropical gardens, and other attractions make it equally fun to explore today.
Part 1: The Edge of the World
The Penlee lifeboat disaster
Jubilee Pool Opened in 1935, this Grade II listed art deco building hosts the largest saltwater lido in the UK (and probably the only triangular-shaped one). If you don’t fancy the chilly seawater temperatures, you’re in luck as a new geothermal pool was added in 2020. Thanks to a 410m-deep geothermal well which heats the water to a toasty 30-35°C, the pool now opens all year round. You can even make an evening of it with a ‘geo and dine’ experience if you’re feeling fancy.
There’s a bit of twist and turn around old warehouse buildings and cottages of Newlyn and then it’s onto the narrower, quieter coast road, climbing gradually to reveal panoramic views over the hard-working, fish-scented harbour across Mount’s Bay to the Lizard Peninsula. If you’re on a very leisurely schedule you could even stop at the historic Red Lion Inn and take in the view over a pint or two. A left split drops you down from the road on a shared path (marked National Cycle Network route 3) before coming back up to the RNLI memorial at the old Penlee lifeboat station. From here you can stay on the broad path alongside the road before dropping into the tight and twisting streets, whitewashed cottages and perfect horseshoe harbour of Mousehole.
The old Penlee lifeboat station high above the bay near Mousehole has a monument to the bravery of the crew of eight local men who launched into a force 12, hurricane storm (170 kph winds and 18m waves) to try and rescue the crew of the freighter Union Star when the engines failed on its first ever voyage. Despite having already miraculously rescued half the crew from metres off the rocks of Boscawen Cove, the lifeboat cox Trevelyan Richards went in again to try and save the rest, but the lifeboat and crew of the Union Star were all lost to the sea.
Mousehole Named after the tiny entrance to the natural harbour behind St Clement’s Isle, the beautiful fishing and trading village of Mousehole was actually the most prosperous in west Cornwall until medieval times. Poet Dylan Thomas stayed here before and after his honeymoon, calling it the “loveliest village in England”, and the couple’s wedding rings were made of Cornish silver. Its boats fished and traded as far away as the Mediterranean and Scotland, and it was burnt down by a Spanish Armada raiding party after all but one of the local militiamen (Squire Jenkyn Keigwin, who the local pub was named after) fled after being outnumbered four to one.
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Cycling UK
Mousehole to Porthcurno The climb out of Mousehole keeps grinding upwards for much longer than is polite, but swapping the busy village for tiny, high-banked back lanes is a fantastic reward for your efforts. It’s an introduction to just how surprisingly quiet and darkly fertile the inland parts of Cornwall are, and the prehistoric menhirs and hut circles just to the north underline how Kernow has attracted people sincethe very first settlers millennia ago. Don’t get too lost in the landscape though, as the super-narrow corkscrew, gravel-centred descent into Lamorna needs your full attention, especially if you meet something coming the other way. At Lamorna you can turn left to the cobbled cove with its old pub, café and long-established artists’ community,
or follow the route up the densely-wooded stream valley, filled with flowers and birdsong, taking a left turn up the rocky byway towards The Pipers standing stones. The whole crown of this part of the coast was clearly important to the prehistoric and early medieval inhabitants of Kernow with the Merry Maidens stone circle, chambered cairns (one right by the roadside), tumuli, and early crosses sitting cheek by jowl in the small fields that still follow ancient layouts. The next few kilometres take you down and up through three rollercoaster valleys with the final drop into Penberth Valley being a particularly steep one, with a switchback start for good measure. Be wary that the thick, lush vegetation that gives these valleys an almost rainforest feel can leave roads damp even in a dry summer, so
Lamorna
Logan Rock detour Turning up past the award winning, 16th century Logan Rock Inn (named after an 80-ton rocking boulder) takes you through Treen and onto a gravel track past a campsite to the South West Coast Path. The bridleway is a bit narrow, so be prepared to stop and shuffle over if you see people coming the other way. The sweeping views from the promontory fort of Treryn Dinas and Logan Rock to the east and Porthcurno to the west are fantastic. The descent down to Porthcurno cove is not only steep and very narrow singletrack but has boulder steps that would make most experienced mountain bikers blink, which is why we’ve taken it off the official recommended route. 28
Part 1: The Edge of the World temper your speed accordingly. As you wind up the far side to Treen, past tall flowerloaded walls and banks, you’ll come to the old Logan Rock Inn, where there’s potential to take a beautiful but very technical detour.
the sea. There’s also a museum explaining how this tiny Cornish fishing village became the centre of global communication and technology quite by accident.
Stay on the road and you can roll down the out and back road into Porthcurno to visit its pretty sandy cove, pubs and cafés, and the unique open air theatre looking out over
Porthcurno Museum of Global Communications
Porthcurno’s story as a centre for global communication started in 1870 when the Falmouth, Gibraltar, and Malta Telegraph Company decided to not lay its telegraph cable all the way round The Lizard to Falmouth but brought it ashore at this quiet fishing cove. Telegraph communication meant that messages to and from India now took less than ten minutes instead of six weeks or more, which revolutionised communication throughout the British Empire and cables were soon laid across the Atlantic as well. Sensing the danger presented by radio, the company also erected a mast to monitor and intercept Marconi’s transmissions from Poldhu (read more about Marconi in Part 3), and even interrupted broadcasts with rude messages to prove they weren’t secure.
That meant cable communication stayed the crucial link for military messaging and, when WWII started, operations were moved into tunnels cut into the cliffs and the whole cove was sealed off for security. Remarkably, telegraphs were still being sent from Porthcurno until 1970. The site remained as a training college until being revived by the introduction of fibre optic cable technology and the area became a hub for global chat and internet traffic again. This whole story and much more is told at the fascinating PK Porthcurno Museum of Global Communications, housed in the original building on the side of the valley.
Minack Theatre This spectacular open air amphitheatre carved into the granite cliffs is well worth taking a peek at. The theatre’s existence is due to one extraordinary woman, Rowena Cade. She moved to Cornwall in the 1920s and built a home on top of the cliff. In 1929, a local company wanted to stage a production of The Tempest, and she offered them the use of her clifftop garden. To create a stage and seating area, she and a few friends cut rocks by hand and manhandled them into position to create the first curved terraces. Rowena continued working on the theatre for the rest of her life, carrying sand up in sacks from the beach
to make concrete and etching on complex patterns and the names of plays performed. If you manage to time it to have an evening free in Porthcurno, watching a play surrounded by stunning coastal vistas with the waves crashing down below is always a memorable experience. 29
Cycling UK
Porthcurno to Land’s End From Porthcurno you head north inland to Trethewey and then drop steeply down into the lovely, wooded valley at Bottoms, where you need to be ready for the sharp left turn at the, erm, bottom. A short road climb takes you to the bridleway signposted to Trengothal Farm and past a particularly lovely example of Cornish thatched roofing on an L-shaped medieval house. Carry on past the farm and the satellite dishes of another communications station along narrow winding back lanes to the main road at Sennen. Look out for the cycle path split to the left which takes you straight across to the cycle path on the far side. The cycle path follows the road down to Sennen Cove, but the West Kernow Way crosses the road and turns left to stay high on a back lane which leads past an assortment of both very classy and crazy clifftop homes, before re-joining the cycle path to Land’s End. This gravel track is broad with fences on either side, but the turns are quite sharp and it can be busy with pedestrians, so take it steady. That’ll
also let you appreciate the amazing views out towards the Isles of Scilly as well as the barrows, cairns, and promontory fort of Maen Castle, which are the English mainland’s most westerly archaeology. Doubling back at the far end you’ll join the two lane, one way road for the final few hundred meters to Land’s End itself. Then it’s time for a snack, a clichéd picture next to the famous signpost, and trying to tell as many people as possible that you only left John o’ Groats five days ago.
Sennen Cove Sennen Cove is famous with surfers and climbers but the relaxed atmosphere – particularly compared to the commercial tourist feel of Land’s End – broad sands, and surfers’ café make it well worth the climb in and out on your bike too. 30
Part 1: The Edge of the World
Land's End While the promontory fort of Maen Castle and other archaeology prove it’s long been an important area, the most westerly point of the English mainland at Carn Kez was actually rarely visited because of the lack of decent roads. A small house hosted the First and Last Inn and stabled horses in the Victorian period, and that grew into the present hotel. This suffered damage from both a lost Luftwaffe bomber in WWII and American troops billeted there. The current
‘theme park’ includes pay as you go attractions and several different refreshment options overlooking this incredible rocky Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty jutting out into the Atlantic. On a clear day you’ll be able to see the Isles of Scilly 45km to the south-east, which together with the Longships rocks and Seven Stones Reef are commonly regarded as the submerged remains of Lyonesse, a mythical land in Arthurian legend.
It's a bird's life With habitats ranging from high Atlantic cliffs to marshland, sleepy rolling countryside and inland lakes, it comes as no surprise that the West Kernow Way is excellent for birdwatching. A pair of lightweight binoculars or a monocular will come in handy here. The most westerly point of the mainland UK, Land’s End is a key sighting point for migratory birds, especially in the autumn and winter. Through the rest of the year, keep an eye out here on the cliffs for gull-like fulmars and mighty peregrine falcons. When you reach the Lizard Peninsula, you might be lucky enough to spot the Cornish chough, one of the UK’s rarest breeding birds which is now thriving here. A combination of hunting and habitat loss was deemed responsible for their decline, as sheep, cattle and ponies that would once graze this land had been moved further inland. Key to their return in 2001 was the reintroduction of traditional grazing to the area, expanding
Cornish Chough
the chough’s preferred cropped grass and heathland habitat. Unlike other crow species, look for the brightly coloured red beak and legs, and their acrobatic flight. At Lizard Point you can also see migratory birds year-round, from puffins in summer to great northern divers, guillemots, and razorbills in winter. As you take the cycle path around Stithians Reservoir, look out for waterfowl including beautiful teal and widgeon in larger numbers, as well as less commonly spotted tufted duck, pochard and goldeneye. 31
Penwith Moors PART TWO
Cycling UK
Part 2 – Penwith Moors
Moorland singletrack
Land’s End to St Erth 100m
50m Distance: 41km 0m
Ascent: 669m 0km 10km
20km
28km
200m 100m 0m 0km
20km
41km 20km
150m Highlights 100m
• Incredible coastal views 50m • Iconic, 0m evocative tin mines 0km 10km sites 23km • Mystical prehistoric • Wild moorland 100m • Tiny, deserted, back roads 50m gravel • Fast • Technical moorland singletrack 0m 0km
Be200m aware
20km
40km
60km
150mshort sections of A30 and B3306 • The 100m are busier than we’d like to take you 50m along, 0m but there are no alternatives for 0km this section 10km 20km 30km 39km • The descent into Cape Cornwall is steep with loose rock and tight 200m corners at the bottom 100msingletrack around Mulfra is • The 0m narrow and rutted with random rocks 44km for 0km added peril, 20km so either polish your MTB skills or get off and push • The singletrack descent into Amalveor is fun but again, loose rock adds potential for punctures or crashes • The A30 at Canon’s Town is busy but made easier to cross with a bike path and centre turning lane
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Navigation The navigation is simpler than Part 1 at first as you retrace the route to Sennen, then follow the road and bridleway along the coast to Cape Cornwall. From Nancherrow to the Levant Mine you’re following obvious mining tracks and then you join the Tinners Way trail across Woon Gumpus Common. The trails become narrow singletrack near Mulfra though, which can be tricky to follow if the vegetation is high. The tracks broaden out and then you’re back on signposted roads from Nancledra, and the bridleway to Canon’s Town is easy to follow once you’ve spotted the entrance. As always though, keep a close eye on your map or GPS as there is still reasonable potential to get lost.
Part 2: Penwith Moors
Area introduction and route summary Part 2 of the West Kernow Way takes you on a dramatic and truly transformative journey to complete the first loop of the route. Heading north from the iconic Atlantic-battered rocks of Land’s End, you retrace your wheel tracks around Sennen Cove and then it’s head down on the road for an unavoidable section before dropping down into the beautiful Cot Valley. You’ll climb out with views over Progo Cove before the scree-scattering plummet to Cape Cornwall. Then it’s inland through the edge of St Just, before heading to the coast again with jaw-dropping views over Kenidjack Castle and following the old mining trails past a whole string of engine houses clinging to the savage cliffs. You’ll turn inland again to wind the clock back millennia past barrows, hill forts and mysterious quoit structures across the remote moors with a potential bonus diversion to the soul stirring site of Mulfra and the amazing Iron Age settlement of Chysauster. A rocky descent fires you out
The climb from Cape Cornwall
onto twisting back roads that you’ll surf all the way to Nancledra. Then you can follow the tight ridgeline singletrack to Canon’s Town, or climb higher on the road to visit the amazing hill fort of Trencrom Hill with its coast to coast views. Then it’s across the A30 to St Erth and the crossover point of this figure-of-eight route. The differences in landscape and surface under your wheels are as dramatic as they sound too. Road, steep singletrack climbs and descents, broad loose rock mining tracks, fast rolling gravel gifts, and even some sections of tricky moorland singletrack are all on the menu. We’ve deliberately kept this part the route as remote and wild as possible to really bring out the unique character of the moors and coast here. However, if you don’t fancy being totally self-sufficient for this section you can easily divert into the centre of St Just, Boscaswell, St Erth or even St Ives if you need resupply stops. 35
Cycling UK
Land’s End to St Just From Land’s End, follow the bike path back past Sennen Cove, being sure to project the steely-eyed determination of a long-distance legend heading for John o’ Groats. You then join the main road for a short section before peeling off onto the B road to St Just under the ancient gaze of the hill forts, hut circles and cairns of Carn Brea, and Bartine Castle. When the road turns sharply right downhill after the grandly named Land’s End Airport – the departures board only features the Scilly Isles – carry straight on into the Cot Valley on a typically narrow Cornish back lane past St Just Youth Hostel towards the National Trust-owned Progo Cove.
One you’ve pushed onto the bridleway you climb steadily on a grassy, stony track up to a chambered cairn and incredible views: south to Sennen, west over the ship-eating Brisons rocks and north to Cape Cornwall itself, with its tall mine chimney sat on top like a spire. The descent to Priest’s Cove is wide and mostly straight but it’s also made of chunky, loose rocks and finishes with a couple of tight turns, so treat it with plenty of respect. An optional couple of hundred meters diversion to Cape Cornwall lookout station gives you an early view of Kenidjack Castle, then it’s a steep but thankfully very short road climb before a level cruise to the edge of St Just.
Lost Way section at Land's End Youth Hostel Here, a short stretch of footpath separates the road leading from the airport and the coast. Historic evidence shows that this route was almost certainly a vehicular highway, and we have submitted an access claim on that basis, but we’re currently advising you to dismount and push along here just to avoid any conflict with nearby residents. 36
Part 2: Penwith Moors
Mining in Cornwall While Cornwall only accounts for 0.02% of the land surface of the earth, you can find over 90% of the known types of minerals here, including copper, iron ore, gold, China Clay and – most importantly – tin. This soft, silver, singing metal (it can squeal if you bend an ingot or hit a seam underground) is the vital 10% that turns decorative copper into sharp tool, armour, and weapon quality bronze, and it’s only found in a few areas in Europe. The rich tin deposits in the Cornish peninsula put it on the map for traders as far away as the eastern Mediterranean and Greece. There’s clear archaeological evidence of extensive foreign trade and it’s mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus around 500 BC. One legend says that a young Jesus may have even come here with metal trader Joseph of Arimathea. Trade gave the area great importance and helps explain the high number of forts, settlements and other remains from the
prehistoric period. Its significance continued into the Iron Age, and Ding Dong mine near Zennor was working during the Roman period. The importance of tin declined as iron and steel were developed, and it wasn’t until the development of the first steam engines to pump water out of the mines that Cornwall really hit the big time again. Not only were its minerals – including China Clay used in porcelain – exported all over the world, but the knowledge of its engineers and miners was prized anywhere shafts and pits were being sunk into the ground. The boom time for Cornwall continued until the end of the 19th century until prices declined and mines rapidly closed, creating a deep local depression only partly offset by the increase in tourism enabled by railways. Recent increases in prices and the discovery of battery quality lithium mean that Cornwall’s mining industry is now potentially re-awakening once again.
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Cycling UK
Tin mines
St Just to Trewellard From St Just it’s back to the rugged Atlantic coast overlooking the iconic Kenidjack Castle, and then you follow the tracks of the tin miners north, past the ruins of the engine houses and spoil tips of Wheal Edward Zawn, Zawn a Bal and other unnamed mining sites. Now totally deserted and stripped bare by the often violent coastal weather, it’s hard to imagine that this stark landscape was once thronged with miners and horse-drawn mine carts, and seething with steam and smoke of the heaving pump engines. The shafts from these pits didn’t just dig hundreds of metres vertically into the earth but would also regularly extend several kilometres out under the 38
seabed following the precious lodes. Cornwall was recognized as the ‘Silicon Valley’ of the whole world in terms of industrial mining innovation. The more intact National Trust-owned mining complex of Levant Zawn, with its preserved beam engine, brings that into clearer focus and the area is now part of the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape UNESCO World Heritage Site.
If you don’t fancy being totally self-sufficient you can easily divert into the centre of St Just, Boscaswell, St Erth or even St Ives if you need resupply stops.
Part 2: Penwith Moors
Levant Engine House Perched on the rugged coastline, this mine building has been restored with a working 1840s steam-powered beam engine. You can book a tour in advance to see the fascinating mine workings and discover the stories of innovation and tragedy that unfolded here.
St Just
Find out more at nationaltrust.org.uk/ levant-mine-and-beam-engine
This small town was the hub for West Cornish mining but is centred around the Plain-an-Gwarry, a banked circular ‘theatre’ used for religious plays and festivals in medieval times, but probably prehistoric in origin. The 14th century church includes early medieval wall paintings and a carved Greek monogram as well as the Selus Stone pillar which has a Roman inscription on it. If your stomach is growling, you’ll be glad to know that St Just has several shops including Warren’s bakery which claims to be the “1st pasty shop in the world” and Moomaids, an artisan ice cream shop using milk from the family farm near Zennor and named after a local mermaid legend.
Trewellard to Nancledra Once you’ve exhausted this fascinating historical lode, it’s time to stoke up your own steam engine for the steady climb up through the small village of Trewellard to Woon Gumpus Common. Not only is Woon Gumpus one of our favourite names on the route (and there are some splendid contenders to choose from) but it’s an archaeologically rich and remarkably remote-feeling part of the peninsula. It also forms part of the Tinners Way trail, which follows the tracks that millennia’s worth of West Cornish tin and other materials have been transported along to the rest of the UK and Europe. That makes it impossible not to let your mind wander through the lives
and worlds of those who have gone before you, though a landscape that still seems wild and untamed despite traces of our ancestors dating from 10,000 years ago. 39
Cycling UK This part of the Tinners Way is fast going at the start too, as you fly along rough road and farm tracks south of Chûn Castle, with its nature reserve and rebuilt quoit stone monument. The perfect gravel bike surface continues, with the wide-open landscape rising and falling gently as you pass the enigmatic holed stone at Mên-an-Tol. The Nine Maidens stone circle comes shortly after, and both are well worth a short diversion on foot to the south of our route. The reputed oldest tin mine in Cornwall – the Ding Dong mine – is less than a kilometre off the route too if you don’t mind a short walk over the moor. However, you’ll need to be tight on your navigation
Lost way: The Tinners Way A modern title for an ancient ridgeway track, believed to date from prehistoric times and following the watershed of the uplands of West Penwith. The point where we join the Tinners Way passes along a well-surfaced old lane. The stone gateways and surface make it obvious that this is a well-established route, and more than wide enough for horse and cart. Further along from here the route is recorded in places as footpath, but the evidence once again points to higher status in the past. As we continue along the route, we pass several historic landmarks that would have been important for navigation, and the linear path this route takes, threading between these features towards St Ives, once again points towards the antiquity and historic status of these ancient trackways. This is further supported by discoveries of everything from Bronze Age gold hoards through to Roman coins. Finally, our route crosses some narrower moorland tracks, with a much wilder feel – but still consistent with the historic mapping that showed this route as branching off to continue across the landscape before joining up with the highway network further inland. 40
Mên-an-Tol
Tinners Way
Part 2: Penwith Moors here, even if you don’t detour, as the local ponies grazing the moor can leave a confusing web of paths to follow. A short dog-leg north around a prehistoric hut circle settlement, and your skills as well as your navigation need to be on point as the bridleway becomes a narrow tyre-width rut. Lots of small steps, peaty puddles and larger rocks hidden in the heather create a real challenge to anyone who doesn’t just surrender and start walking straight away. This is definitely the wildest-feeling section of the whole route too, with no signs of civilisation later than the Bronze Age, and weather that can often cloak in around you silently and create an eerie atmosphere.
After a short section of road and gravel track it’s back onto moorland singletrack over the Lady and Amalveor Downs, passing more tumuli on the tops of the rolling hills before a rapid and rocky descent to the road above Amalveor itself. We’ve already flagged this up in the ‘Be aware’ section opener but it’s worth pointing out that the loose rocks on this section can be a real puncture risk. We ended up with a pump in our hand and a couple of plugs in our tyre on the recce ride even running tubeless. The roll down the road to Nancledra is of the more relaxing kind and then you cross the upper reaches of the Red River on its short journey south to Marazion.
Mulfra Quoit and Chysauster diversion If you want peak remoteness and technical challenge, then the Neolithic site of Mulfra Quoit is only accessed along a testing ribbon of moorland singletrack. You’ll need good eyes to find the start of the track in summer heather, but your efforts will be rewarded with a deeply evocative experience, especially if there is mist swirling around the stone slabs of the quoit. Rolling on south rather than back-tracking here drops you into the timeless hamlet of Mulfra itself. Then it’s a short loop round into the Trevaylor valley from where you can
heft over the short but horribly steep leg-burner to the next shallow valley, and south to the remarkably well-preserved Iron Age hut circles of Chysauster. Be aware that this site has restricted access, so check the opening times in advance on the English Heritage website. From Chysauster you can either head directly north up a bridleway that quickly turns from broad and benign to devilishly difficult, or heave back over the hill and then north up the road to rejoin the core route.
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Cycling UK
Trencrom Hill To be honest, Trencrom Hill had escaped us entirely until we were on a recce ride for another route when a herd of escaped cows distracted us from our intended bridleway route, and this happy accident brought us to the foot of Trencrom Hill. While the top is only accessed by footpath, we’d definitely recommend hiding your bike in the bushes at the bottom and taking a hike to the top. Here, you’ll get magnificent views across to the coast on both sides as well as west and east over Penwith and the Lizard. This includes St Michael’s mount, where legend tells that the resident giantess Cormellian was killed by a hammer thrown by Trecobben, the giant who lived on Trencrom Hill. Whether you believe in giants or not, the very easily defended rocky slopes mean it was occupied in the Neolithic period, and the hut circles on the flat top date from the Bronze and Iron Age periods, marking it as a key seat of power in the area for thousands of years.
Nancledra to St Erth A traversing climb up narrow, hedge-lined roads brings you to the next bridleway section just as things level out slightly. This 2km stretch includes a lot of tight hedge-lined singletrack which holds moisture, and it seems to be popular with horse riders too, so it can be very wet and muddy even in summer. That’s one of the reasons we’ve added the Trencrom Hill diversion, but if you’re happy to deal with some mud, the gradient is in your favour, and you’ll soon be bursting out of the bushes and onto the gravel tracks for the descent towards Canon’s Town. It’s a mark of just how remote the rest of this route has been (even if you swerved into St Just for pasties and ice cream) that even this broad road lined with random detached houses seems very suburban and quite a shock to the system. The dog-leg crossing over the busy A30 ramps up the rude awakening, but at least there’s a bike lane and separate turning position in the centre so you can scuttle across safely. After a steady climb up across the railway line to Penzance (it’s only about 8km away at this point) you double back and then double back again, to wind up past the gorgeous Grade II listed 18th century
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Part 2: Penwith Moors mini manor house at Tredrea. The bridleway takes you up around to the equally gorgeous, and certainly larger, Grade II listed 17th century Trewinnard Manor (we smell a local manor competition back in the day) where you can now rent a holiday cottage with an outdoor pool if you’re feeling fancy. Then it’s a drop down through the woods and up the far side to complete your bypass of St Erth, though obviously you can miss the manors if you’d rather dive into town for some sustenance or even an overnight stop. It’s also an obvious place to end this section as the route crossover occurs further along the generally deserted, dirt-centred road after it dives steeply down to cross a ford and then climbs up along Countess Bridge Lane. You’re also within a few kilometres of St Ives, Marazion and even Penzance if you want a more substantial place to take an overnight break.
What’s with all the Saints? You’ll have noticed by now that, like many Celtic areas, Cornwall seems to have a thing with saints, not just in terms of churches but also place names. In fact, Wikipedia lists 57 saints with clear links to Cornwall, not least St Piran, the patron saint of tin miners and Cornwall itself. 15th century Christian, Piran upset the heathen locals in his native Ireland who tied him to a mill stone and then rolled him off a cliff into the sea. The storm that had been raging suddenly calmed and the quern stone presumably became some sort of coracle (small Celtic ‘canoe’ made of animal hide) in which Piran bobbed across the sea to Cornwall. He started his Christian missionary work immediately – apparently practising on local animals first. He also ‘re-invented’ tin smelting and created the Cornish Flag when his black hearthstone had a white metal cross rise to the surface when he set a fire on it.
Of course, you can choose whether to believe the more ‘miraculous’ elements of his story or not, but the 5–7th century Welsh, Britannic or Irish origins are typical of most of Cornwall’s saints. So is the story of them being chased out of their homelands by invading pagan tribes, and in fact many of the saints were also kings/ queens/princes/princesses or at least military leaders too. This reinforces the known history that this post Roman period was very turbulent in terms of invaders and power shifts right across northern Europe. It also underlines just how much movement of people and culture there was up and down the whole Celtic Atlantic coast from the Mesolithic all the way through to the medieval period, and how the rich lands of Cornwall have always been a popular place to escape to. 43
Parts 3 and 4 overview
The Loe PART THREE
Cycling UK
100m 50m 0m 0km
10km
20km
28km
200m 100m 0m 0km
Part 3 – The Loe
20km
41km 20km
150m
St Erth to Helston
100m 50m 0m 0km
10km
23km
100m
Distance: 23km
Ascent: 419m
50m 0m
Highlights
Be aware0km
• Deserted country lanes
• There are some notable hills – both up200m and down – but nothing 150m as steep as you’ve done so far 100m
• Woodland valley bridleways • Panoramic peninsular views • Prehistoric and mining history • Fantastic foodie harbour • Spectacular sand bar
Navigation This short section uses a mix of quiet back roads and bridleways but there’s nothing hidden behind bushes or under heather, so navigation is relatively simple. The only potential complications are the diversion around Tregonning Hill and deciding whether you want to head into Helston at the end or carry on across the Loe Bar straight onto the Lizard. 48
20km
40km
50mcrossing at Ashton can • The A394 0m be busy 0km
10km
20km
30km
• Porthleven will probably be full of meandering pedestrians, so ride 200m accordingly
60km
39km
100mcoastal pathway beyond • The lower 0m has been washed away Porthleven 0km impassable, 20km so double 44km and is totally back and go high
• The loose gravel switchbacks down to the Loe can be tricky too
Part 3: The Loe
Porthleven
Area introduction and route summary This short ‘bridging’ section shouldn’t be underestimated as it takes you over one of the higher points of Cornwall’s spine at Tregonning. That’s compounded by the up-and-over nature of the roads and bridleways to Godolphin, so expect your legs to make themselves known in places. Making the effort takes you through some enchanting places that few others will see, and it unlocks fabulous views, both inland and coastal. You’ll not be seeing much at first though, as the route takes you along classic high-banked and tree-lined Cornish lanes over to Relubbus. Following the River Hayle upstream takes you along a wooded bridleway past fishponds and mining remains, before the climb up to Godolphin begins on quiet lanes past beautifully maintained cottage gardens. The surface changes to gravel as you head up past Godolphin Hill itself and it’s on and off grit over to Tregonning Hill with its fantastic panoramic views. Here, you can take the high route past the prehistoric sites and quarries to start the gradual descent towards the coast early.
Either way, you’ll end up in Ashton, where you’ll cross the main road, and then it’s a glorious glide all the way down into Porthleven. This picturesque double harbour is a definite highlight of the route (especially if you’re hungry), and it also marks a switch from inland to coastal for the next section of your adventure. That’s obvious straight away as you climb out around the stone pier onto the heathland tops with views back across Mount’s Bay and down the Lizard Peninsula where you’ll be heading next. Dropping back down to the sea it’s time to decide whether to loop inland under the broad wood-canopied promenade to Helston for supplies (and possibly a stopover), or cross the unique sand bank of the Loe Bar to continue your journey south. In terms of surface, there’s more road than the previous section and most of the off-road tracks are nowhere near as testing either, so it’s a chance to relax and look at the views a bit more. Just be careful on the singletrack of Tregonning Hill and the coast path from Porthleven to Helston, as they’re slightly tricky in places. 49
Cycling UK
St Erth to Tregonning Hill Heading south from St Erth on deserted back roads with tall hedges and trees, you’re on a rollercoaster in and out of small stream valleys with pixie-filled woods and streams that can spill onto the road even when there’s not an actual ford crossing. Dropping down into the stone cottage hamlet of Relubbus, you need to turn right onto the bridleway immediately after you cross the tiny bridge over the River Hayle. You follow the crystal waters upstream past scattered cottages with flower filled gardens (even the recycling bins we saw were decorated), old fishponds and small woods as tyres roll easily along grass-centred gravel tracks. It gets less easy as you start climbing up through Trescowe in the shadow of small, irregular fields that clearly haven’t changed since it was horse and man tilling them, not machines. If you look through the occasional gaps in the tall hedges loaded with a botanist’s dream of seemingly limitless assortment of shrubs, flowers, and insects, you’ll see small clumps of trees hiding old mines and shafts of this mineral rich pocket. You turn right onto another gravelly climb just after a well-preserved engine house with a tall brick chimney. Reaching the summit with Godolphin Hill on your left shoulder, the views out over Penwith, Penzance, and Mount’s Bay are suddenly revealed on your right as the hedge boundaries fall away. While Godolphin Hill lies seemingly untouched under a blanket of ferns, a hoard of Bronze Age axes and a prehistoric village were both uncovered during Victorian mining operations. This proves the prominent peak has always been important for its commanding position and the metallic and mineral deposits it’s formed from. Whether you take a walk up to the top of the hill or just stay on the track below, it’s a great spot to stop for a while,take in 50
Lost way: Tregonning Hill As you’ll spot from the sign at the beginning, the route over Tregonning is actually marked as a footpath rather than a bridleway. However, the track features on a variety of historic maps as an old road, and has been used for many years by local riders (of bike and horse varieties) prior to an application in 2006 to record it as a bridleway based on long use. Full details of this right of way claim, along with a formal recommendation to upgrade its status, can be seen on the council’s website under reference WCA541, but if anyone grumbles at you, you can politely point out the historical precedent.
all the riding you’ve racked up so far, and congratulate yourself for completing the first major block of climbing before a blissfully long gravity-gifted roll to the coast. Dropping down to a dog-leg road junction, you curve round to a crossroads where the bridleway takes you straight on between a tidy stone cottage and its garage, into a tunnel of tree lined double track before turning up to the road. You’ll see a tempting bridleway towards Mount Whistle dead ahead, but we follow the road left until a bench on a raised green. Here, you can carry on rolling down the road through Balwest or take the off-road route along the ridge of Tregonning Hill.
Part 3: The Loe
Godolphin House The West Kernow Way passes the other side of Godolphin Hill to the gorgeous National Trust property with its unique pillared front, and it’s only a short road loop detour to include it in your adventure. As well as the house, there are walks through the landscaped grounds (partially constructed by French Napoleonic prisoners) and a traditional tearoom at ‘The Piggery’.
It gets less easy as you start climbing up through Trescowe in the shadow of small, irregular fields that clearly haven’t changed since it was horse and man tilling them. Like Godolphin, the double-humped ridge of Tregonning Hill has understandably been important for literally Ages. Bronze Age Kernow cultures used it as a site for several barrows and Castle Pencaire, the double bank and ditch hill fort that looks over you as you climb up to the top of the ridge dates from the Iron Age. There are two Iron Age/Romano British settlement ‘rounds’ on the lower western slope and a hoard of Roman coins was found buried in one of the barrows too. From the top, not only can you look all the way down The Lizard, but also north towards Falmouth and the hills at the back of Redruth. You’ll be looking out over the
remains of quarries where China Clay was first extracted, allowing the English pottery industry to make their own porcelain and compete with eastern imports for the premium ceramic market. There are rumours of John Wesley himself preaching on the hill too (which presumably accounts for the Wesleyan chapel and church in Balwest at the foot of the hill). Not only is the hill fascinating from a historical point of view, it’s also a nice bit of singletrack riding after a relatively long stint of road and mild gravel. However, with access negotiations currently ongoing, please be even more careful and considerate of other path users than usual. 51
Cycling UK
Porthleven The most southerly port in the UK, Porthleven’s harbour has been a vital refuge for ships right back into the distant past. Its own boats were crucial for the export of tin and, later, China Clay, and its fishing fleet ranged far and wide too, with the products of its busy boatyard being sought after as far away as South Africa. The large number of local shipwrecks made it one of the first RNLI lifeboat stations. While commercial use is now much reduced, the harbour is still very popular with recreational boats as well as sea rowers and canoeists. The shelf created by blasting works for the outer harbour pier has a reputation as the best reef break in Cornwall too. It’s very popular with general visitors, and has an excellent range of places to eat and stay if you want to refuel or rest on the coast rather than round the corner at Helston.
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Part 3: The Loe
Tregonning Hill to Porthleven You’ll need to be careful crossing the A387 at Ashton too, as while there’s a 30mph speed limit, this main link from Helston to Penzance is always busy. If you want to avoid the 100m or so of dog-leg, use the pedestrian island in the middle and walk along the pavement on the far side. Heading down through the hamlet of Rinsey Croft with its dry-stone garden walls and pretty cottages, the road will swing you round south east for an almost dead-straight, gradually downhill run towards the coastal cliffs into Porthleven. While it’s a lovely section of the route on a bike, this part of the coast was notorious for shipwrecks of sailing ships forced against the rocky shore by prevailing westerly winds. In fact, waves smashing against the granite sea wall by Porthleven Institute at the base of the pier are still regularly used as a backdrop for news reports of possible stormy weather.
As you roll into the village, make sure you split to the right for the best views of the self-same Institute, the outer harbour and the long stone pier that shelters it. Rolling round to the inner harbour the white walled cottages have an almost Greek feel, but the menus at the stalls and restaurants make the most of local produce, whether that’s super fresh seafood or traditional pasties. 53
Cycling UK
Leaving Porthleven
Porthleven to Helston To exit the town, it’s a rumble round the far side of the harbour on chunky cobbles to the outer pier, past the surfers, and then a climb up through the cottages of the south side of the town. At the edge of Porthleven, make sure you keep climbing and hooking round to the left rather than dropping down through the car park to follow the old coast path – that’s now closed, having vanished into the sea following a recent landslip. As long as the weather is behaving, going high does give you fantastic views out over Mount’s Bay from the broad gravel bike path. Concentrate on the switchback corners rather than the vistas as you drop down at the far end though, as the loose gravel can be slippery, and it’s an understandably popular walk round from Helston. When you reach the small lodge at the bottom of the slope, you’ve got a decision to make. The full route option is to follow the broad, gravel ‘promenade’ as it winds through rich broadleaf woodland on the east edge of The Loe. You can then loop through the pretty parkland of Penrose House and north into the charming town of Helston for supermarket supplies and maybe a stopover. 54
Helston Helston is the most southerly town in the UK and has managed to survive as the commercial and community focal point of the Lizard, despite being cut off from the sea for at least several centuries. No one knows when the Loe Bar sand bank sealed off the sea end of the River Cober, but we do know the area had a rich prehistoric settlement and spiritual landscape as well as a Romano-British phase before appearing in Saxon records as Hellys. It rose to real importance when it was appointed as a stannary town (where tin quality was assessed for taxes) by King John, and it remained a centre for local mining and trade until the late 19th century. It’s still famous for its idyllic inland Loe lagoon and the traditional Cornish Flora Day festival and dance, which is still held in May every year.
The shorter option is to follow the South West Coast Path and take the slipway straight onto the beach and – unless you’ve got super-wide tyres – push across the remarkable sandy feature of the Loe Bar to short-circuit the Helston segment.
Part 3: The Loe
The Loe Bar Nobody is sure when the shingle beach of the Loe Bar fully closed off the River Cober running down from Helston, but the last mention of ships trading from the town is in the 13th century. Or you could believe the legend that the bar was formed when a local giant called Tregeagle accidentally dropped an appropriately giant-sized bag of sand while carrying it from Gunwalloe to Porthleven as part of a punishment. However it happened, it’s certainly well sealed now, and the freshwater lake (The Loe) it created is the largest in Cornwall and a beautifully tranquil home to up to 80 different species of birds. According to Arthurian legend, it’s also where Sir Bedivere threw ‘Excalibur’ – King Arthur’s legendary sword of invincibility – returning it to the ‘Lady of the Lake’ before the mortally wounded king died. The sea side of the Bar also has a rather more gruesome legend regarding a killer wave that takes a life every seven years. That’s not just myth either, as large Atlantic waves surging across the bay onto the steeply shelving shore create savage currents that make entering the sea here extremely dangerous and regularly lethal, despite the numerous warning signs and lifebelts. Keep your feet dry though and this remarkable part of the coast is a fantastic place to sit and contemplate the adventure so far, and an obvious break point into the next section of the route.
The Loe sand bar that separates it from the sea is well worth quick detour along too, but don’t be tempted into the water as it’s particularly treacherous at this point. 55
Lizard Peninsula PART FOUR
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Highlights • Spectacular coastal cliff views • Beautiful coves and beaches • Stunning harbour villages • Most southerly point of the UK mainland • Lighthouses • Prehistoric mystery • Precious nature reserves • World War II defences • Intergalactic space station (yes really) • Optional ferry crossing • Seal sanctuary • Historic airfields
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Navigation 0km 10km 20km 30km 39km Cornwall is never the easiest place to plot a course through but this section at least starts relatively simply. Just keep the water 200m on your right, whether it’s the Loe coming 100m out of Helston, or the sea between the Loe 0m Bar and Mullion. You need to tiptoe across 0km 44km the nature reserves and20km negotiated access of the Lizard, and there’s a carry and push across a beach at Kennack, but otherwise it’s a join-the-dots exercise up to Coverack. The sheer number of different lanes and junctions from here to Gweek (or across the ferry shortcut at Helford) means you’ll need to stay sharp on your GPS screen or your map if you’re going to get to Constantine on time.
Be aware • Don’t go swimming at the Loe Bar • Steep descents and climbs around Ruan Minor, Coverack, Helford, Mawgan, Gweek and Constantine 58
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• Duck as you go across Gunwalloe golf course • The main road through and out of Lizard can be busy
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Area introduction and route summary The Lizard gets some love as the southernmost peninsula in the UK, but it doesn’t receive nearly as much attention from cyclists as its western sibling Land’s End. That’s a real shame for the local economy, but potentially brilliant for riders, as it’s generally blissfully empty away from Lizard Point itself. Even the Loe and its unique Bar beach are quieter than you’d expect and the breathtaking rock-flanked bridges of Church Cove and Poldhu are the kind of places whose beauty you want to preserve. Mullion is a lively village with useful facilities but the snaking route past Predannack down towards Lizard Point feels like particularly precious access through beautiful nature reserves above stunning cliff vistas. The Lizard has real welcoming charm as you soak up the most southerly point of the route, and the British mainland, and then you weave through a dramatically evocative atmosphere of distant pasts, across beaches backed by wartime defences and tiny traditional time-slip fishing coves to the gorgeous harbour village and bay of Coverack. It’s the signature high-banked back lanes that bring you back north to the sleepy seal sanctuary creek of Gweek, or you can short-cut via the gorgeous thatched-cottage village of Helford to hop on a tiny ferry across the river. Then it’s punchy hills and pixie-wood valleys to Constantine from either direction to finish this wonderfully charismatic part of the West Kernow Way adventure and get ready for the run north to Portreath. While this section has a higher ratio of road than previous parts of the route, steep gradients, beach pushes and too many places too beautiful to rush through mean you’re unlikely to see a rise in your average speed. The rewards for relaxing and really making the most of the unique
part of the world between Helston and Constantine are worth the time invested many times over, and if you want to reduce the distance aquatically there’s always the foot-ferry option at Helford.
Church of the Storms
Helston to Mullion We leave Helston the same way we came in – through Coronation Park – but this time, instead of going all the way round the boating lake, exit through the side gate and take the road spur through the housing estate across the B road. You’ll be off-road straight away, and transferring from gravel track to wooded singletrack definitely needs caution as on a moist morning there are enough roots to trip tyres up if you’re not careful. Dog walkers and other riders have created several different strands of path through the woods, too, so if in doubt keep to the right alongside the narrow River Cober rather than popping out onto the fields above. Once you’re next to the Loe itself the navigation is easy so you’ll have attention spare to take in this beautifully tranquil lagoon, visited by up to 80 species of bird during annual migrations. The Loe sand bar that separates it from the sea is well worth a quick detour along too, but don’t be tempted into the water as it’s particularly treacherous at this point. Once you’ve emptied your shoes of sand you take a rough farm track up and away from the beach but are soon paid back 59
Cycling UK with wide, smooth and generally totally empty roads with huge sea views to the right and the ‘famous’, multi-award-winning Halzephron Inn at Chyanvounder on your left, before dropping down to Church Cove. This ruggedly beautiful spot just past Gunwalloe is named after the tiny ‘Church of the Storms’ hiding behind the rocky promontory that separates the two beaches, with its weather-beaten graveyard also reminding you what a dangerous place the sea can be. Barrow graves from an entirely different era watch over you from the headland to the south as you scrabble up the rocky double-
track across the golf course, so be sure to check for players teeing off just in case. The clubhouse at the top is potentially useful stop if you’re running earlier or later than the opening times of most cafés. Then it’s left on the road for the steep drop into the surfing hotspot of National Trust-owned Poldhu Cove, where another café looks out over the small but perfectly formed arc of golden sand. Once you’re done watching the surfers there’s a short but stiff climb over the headland to Mullion, where Marconi made history and confirmed Cornwall as a centre for global communication innovation.
Marconi at Poldhu Archaeology confirms that Poldhu Point has been visited from at least the Bronze Age but it was young Italian Guglielmo Marconi who made Poldhu internationally famous in 1901. Using a makeshift array of transmitter masts he sent radio signals from here using his ‘spark transmitter’ masts and they were picked up by a similar array in Newfoundland on the eastern Atlantic coast of the US. While the undersea cable telegraph station at Porthcurno had already shortened messaging times to hours and minutes, this new form of transatlantic communication was essentially instant and utterly transformative. Marconi went on to demonstrate his shortwave radio technology at the site in the 1920s, and while the local global/intergallactic communications tech hub is now at Goonhilly Earth Station there’s still a small museum on the site at Poldhu to commemorate its place in history.
Predannack Airfield Hastily built as a satellite airfield for RAF Culdrose when France fell to the Germans, the fighter squadrons at Predannack moved from defending the ports and shipping of the south west coast to offensive operations across the channel and out over the Atlantic. Its southerly position and an extended runway also made it a natural base for larger Coastal Command bombers, and a valuable refuelling point for aircraft heading towards Africa as well as an emergency landing strip. It’s still regularly used for training by helicopters from Culdrose and there’s been a model flying club operating from there since 1950, so don’t be surprised if something flies over your head as you pedal past. 60
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
The climb towards Mullion
Mullion harbour
Mullion The village of Mullion is one of the oldest on the Lizard peninsula with a rich prehistoric archaeological record of burial and sacred sites, followed by early Christian Celtic crosses before the current Norman based church was built. The charming cottages of the village housed workers in both tin mines and China Clay quarry workers inland and fishermen who worked out of Mullion Cove just to the south. Soft alc was also mined from the steep sided ravine of Soap Rock to
the south, which gets its name from the soft mineral historically used for cleaning and as an additive for clay, paint and other products. Mullion Cove’s tiny stone harbour and historic lifeboat station are finitely worth a short detour to as well. It’s also a very important nature area with multiple Sites of Special Scientific Interest along the cliffs to the south and a bird reserve on Mullion Island just offshore.
Mullion to Predannack Airfield The West Kernow Way crosses the Mullion Cove road and then drops steeply down to a beautiful stream valley with an old stone bridge and crystal-clear ford. Then it’s a short climb up through narrowing hedges onto a singletrack bridleway that takes you to the MOD Keep Out signs and chainlink fences of Predannack Airfield. From here you’ll backtrack a little around the perimeter to a rough road with views out over prehistoric barrows and the site of an old Celtic cross to the sea at Mullion Cove and across to Penzance. Take care heading along the narrow lane towards Predannack, as cattle are often moved between the two farms along this
lane, so you might have to sit tight and be patient if you find yourself caught in a cattle-jam. Watch out for cows grazing on the next bit of heathland too. From Predannack the narrow bridleway takes a quick down and up through a ford followed by a couple of hundred metres of what can be a particularly percussive path between two tall hedges if it’s dry, or an incredibly churned-up muddy stretch when it’s wet. Hopefully your bolts, bags and teeth won’t be too loosened by the horse-trod hammered surface, or your wheels claimed by the bog, and you’ll be relieved to know it soon smoothens out as it kinks left towards the edge of the airfield again. 61
Cycling UK
You find incredible coastline and varied inland pleasures – from countless prehistoric sites to breathtakingly beautiful nature reserves and stunning villages. Predannack Airfield to Lizard Things get complicated in terms of potential and advised routes as you take a switchback in the path and come back to the National Trust managed Lizard Nature Reserve. The map shows a bridleway following the top edge of the cliffs above George’s Cove, which continues as broad, rock studded grassland all the way round to Kynance Cove where you’ll find a small beach and café. This sounds utterly unmissable, and when we recce’d the route the panoramic coastal views underlined by sea roaring against the high cliffs proved truly spectacular. However, the route crosses fragile habitats and prehistoric archaeological features, and while it might be marked as a bridleway the loose, steep, rocky descent into the ravine of Soap Rock Cove (often called Soapy Cove) is technical and treacherous even on foot with a lightly 62
loaded bike; the climb out the far side is similarly unforgiving. Following the coast south, the final part of the descent into Kynance Cove takes the form of steep and deep concrete steps that are a definite no-ride zone and very awkward even when carrying. (Fear not, though: it is still possible to visit Kynance and take in one of Cornwall’s most iconic views with a short detour from our recommended route below.) As a result, our recommended route instead peels south onto a permissive access route, negotiated with Natural England and the National Trust in order to minimise impact on this sensitive location, and continues past Kynance Farm, known locally as Jollytown. The route crosses further fields and then the heath, leaving the main track to descend a rocky path to the
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
izard National Nature L Reserve
Kynance Cove
Heathland is a rare habitat in lowland Britain today, and the Lizard National Nature Reserve supports a particularly diverse mix of rare species and valuable wildlife habitats. The thin dry soils support an incredible diversity of clovers and other plants, down to a miniature scale. This includes the Erica vagans or Cornish Heath, a rare shrub only found on the Lizard peninsula.
Lizard village Before you start looking at the shape of the peninsula or hoping for tales of giant sea monsters, we’ll have to disappoint and explain that Lis Ard just means High Place in old Cornish. Its position overlooking the southernmost part of Britain makes it something of a tourist spot, but somehow it maintains a ton of charm that some might find lacking from Land’s End. Make sure you head down to the double-towered lighthouse, the oldest in mainland Britain, complete with a row of high-chimneyed cottages that give it a castellated look. While the first recorded light was placed here to protect shipping in 1619, it has been a crucial lookout point since long before that and it was where the Spanish Armada invasion fleet was first sighted in 1588.
The (optional) steps out of Kynance Cove 63
Cycling UK Heading west on the single-carriageway, speed-humped road towards Lizard keep an eye out for Chapel Lane, a bridleway short cut into the heart of the village. Here at the southernmost point of mainland UK you can expect the free-range village green car park to be a mess of confused motorists, so be cautious as you filter through the cars, past the ancient Cornish cross and take the lane south past various tearoom options in the village centre. Stay alert on the two-way section of the narrow lane and then follow the one-way routing to the double-towered Lizard lighthouse and heritage centre car park.
Lizard lighthouse
stream at Kynance Gate. On the highpoint above is a Bronze Age settlement of stone hut circles, thought to be a summer base for animal herders. These heaths are still grazed in summer today by hardy native breeds of cattle such as Red Devons and Welsh Blacks owned by local farmers. After crossing the stream, we emerge from the heath onto a metalled road near the National Trust car park and toilets. This keeps the whole section of the route rideable, and a short diversion to Kynance Cove is well worth considering. It’s a hugely popular visitor destination, with a dramatic mix of cliffs, islands and caves all linked by a sandy beach, best seen at low tide. The dark towering cliffs are made of serpentine, an unusual rock, formed deep in the earth’s mantle, which rarely reaches the surface. If you want to see for yourself, head towards the coast along the tarmac road, though this section of path can be busy with visitors so the National Trust has asked that riders dismount through here and leave their bikes at the racks. 64
If you want the perfect opportunity to soak up some rugged coastal views while refuelling with a particularly fine cream tea, then we’d strongly suggest you roll down the 100 metres of remaining road right to the tip of the peninsula and pop into ‘Britain’s most Southerly Café’ (their caps not ours), where seabirds hover over the old lifeboat station ramp and the rolling sea arcs out around the evocatively named rugged rocks of Vellan Drang.
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Lizard to Coverack Once you’ve had your fill of horizon, head back inland through Lizard and scuttle along the 2km section of unavoidable main road northwards across the Lizard Downs. You’ll soon be darting down a gravel bridleway past prehistoric barrow burials, and as you head south seawards the surprising wildness and isolation of this part of Cornwall will wrap around you again. The ancient past is barely
interrupted by the descent into Cadgwith, where ancient mariners sit mending nets and lobster pots next to small fishing boats pulled up onto the cobbled beach. Be prepared for a haul yourself as you winch up the winding back road to Ruan Minor, turning right past the stubby-towered church through barely bar-width lanes to Poltesco and Kuggar.
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Cycling UK
Cadgwith While fishing boats have been pulled onto the shingle beach of Cadgwith Cove since the dawn of time, the thatched cottages of this tiny hamlet only started appearing in the 16th century. Before then fishing was just used to supplement farming in the same way it had been for 5,000 years, with ‘Huers’ – people standing on the cliffs to either side of the cove – directing boats to the shoals of fish. Catches today are nowhere near the 1904 four day record of 1,800,000 pilchards (yes, nearly two million) but a variety of fish and shellfish are still landed for export and to supply the local pub, café and seafood snack hut. The Huer’s hut still stands watching over the cove and the numerous shipwreck sites of the surrounding rocks.
Coverack This natural harbour with its steep street rolling down to a lifeboat station-based fish and chip shop and fishermen’s pub is a wonderfully evocative kernel of total Cornishness. That makes it a prime spot for stopping overnight – we stayed at the youth hostel looking out over the bay, but there are several hotels and other accommodation options – or at least exploring the area from the long bay to the north or the prehistoric promontory fort of Chynhalls Point to the south. 66
From Kuggar it’s a one-way roll down to the café next to the holiday park and a hop onto the double scoop of sandy beach at Kennack. While there’s still some beach left at high tide, seekers of solitude should make the short push and scramble to the furthest beach which typically has about 1% of the number of people on the first one. Its shallow slope makes it popular for launching dive boats that visit the multiple wrecks off the coast here, but also made it a prime site for invasion. The concrete wall at the back of the beach was cast to stop German tanks rolling inland in World War II. Luckily it’s since been breached enough by the sea to sneak a bike through, but the ancient grassed-over cobbled track that you follow up the side of the valley is more likely to be taken at a steady march rather than blitzed. While largely untouched by modern features, the ancient lanes you roll along now are surrounded by hut circles and tumuli from millennia ago. Riding across this landscape, its wind-bent trees draped in skeins of mist with the dawning sun strobing through, was one of the most memorable snapshots of the whole route-checking trip too. The recce trip is also why we extended the route into Coverack, which is undoubtedly worth the diversion and the steep climb out of the far side.
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
Lost way section at Trevenwith The climb up the back of Kennack Sands towards the farmstead at Trevenwith follows an ancient lane and field path, marked on OS maps as both footpath and access land. Historic mapping here suggests that the route once had a higher status, and the stone cobbles under the grassy surface support this conclusion. Cycling UK has submitted a map modification application for this route, but in order to avoid any disputes, we’re recommending for now that you push up this path (it’s steep and grassy
enough that you’ll probably be pushing anyway), and remount once you reach the byway beyond the gates.
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Coverack to Gweek Heading north inland immerses you right back into the furthest past with archaeological remains dating back to 6500 BC at Poldowrian Garden and multiple burial mounds and standing stones showing how significant this area has been throughout the human history of the UK. The richness of the land and the pockets of dense woodland in stream split valleys become the signature south Cornish screen saver and leg strainer as you weave your way north. Keep your eyes peeled for the far more modern skyline created by Goonhilly Earth Station to the south west, and this part of the route also comes with an optional ferry accessed short cut north across the river estuary at Helford. If you want to stay on dry land or you’re out of season for the ferry, then roll on north west through Newtown and St Martin. You’ll pass multiple prehistoric settlements around Caer Vallack with its holy spring and the Halliggye Fogou and medieval Trellowarren chapel sit on the ridge the other side of the valley to the south. It’s not just the local history that goes through many twists and turns though. Not only is the road down into Mawgan Creek and then up the far side to its village namesake a brake and leg testing snake, but other
Goonhilly Earth Station A heathland nature reserve covered in prehistoric burial mounts and standing stones might not seem the most obvious site for a multiple satellite dish installation fresh out of a sci-fi colony movie, but Goonhilly has clearly been a place for mankind to communicate with the beyond for thousands of years. The Earth Station benefits from the solid granite geology and clear pollution-free southern skies in the same way as our forefathers did too and while most of the research done here relates to distant galaxies and Artificial Intelligence it also has clear links with Cornwall’s recent world-shrinking Marconi and Telegraph history.
Gweek
Mawgans in Brittany and Wales confirm the archaeological and cultural links that have tied these Western Celtic areas together for thousands of years. A classically Celtic aesthetic means the thatched medieval longhouse where you turn in the middle of the village has pale pink walls under its low reed brows. From here it’s down into another thickly wooded, steep sided stream valley, splashing through the glittering ford and then up and over past another prehistoric settlement enclosure before dropping down towards Gweek. 68
Part 4: Lizard Peninsula
The Helford ferry option This option shortcuts the loop inland via Gweek by using a small foot passenger and cyclist ferry from the gorgeous thatched cottage hamlet of Helford across the Helford River estuary to the Ferryboat Inn at Passage Cove on the far side. You’ve then got a serious set of up-and-over hills between beautiful creeks where sailing boats and motor cruisers wait for their leisure captains and abandoned boats slowly dissolve back into the water. The steep roads are daisy chained together with picture perfect cottage gardens and the old slipways, mineral mine sites and oyster beds of Port Navas until you’re back on track at Constantine. The ferry only runs from April to October though and even then its weather dependent, so check to make sure you’re not going to be left high and dry on the day before diverting north from Tregowris. Find out more on 01326 250770 69
Cycling UK This pretty village sits in the fork of two creeks at the top of the Helford estuary and became the adopted eastern facing sea harbour for Helston when the Loe Bar cut it off from direct coastal access. The south side of the first creek still has several working quays for pleasure and trade use and a combination of both bright and obviously still much loved and sadly
rotting boat wrecks sit together on the tidal mud flats either side. The postcard-ready white rendered buildings of the village centre include a pub, shop and post office where you can refuel and relax for a while and the National Seal Sanctuary sits alongside the Helford River if you want to go and say hello.
Gweek Seal Sanctuary The National Seal Sanctuary has been saving young pups and injured seals for over sixty years, bringing them back to full health before releasing them to enjoy the Cornish coast. The centre also looks after more exotic seals and sea lions from zoos as well as penguins and less seaworthy sheep, goats and ponies. As well as a café, gift shop, feeding time displays and a play area it’s also the site of an experimental beaver colony in the ‘Secret Creek’ and all money raised from admission goes towards saving more seals and other local ecological work.
Helford river
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Part 4: Lizard Peninsula Permissive bridleway
Gweek to Constantine Be warned that spending too long being charmed by everyone’s favourite sea dogs might put an extra ache in your legs as the back road north out of Gweek turns right off the tarmac onto a short gravel farm track and then a rougher, steeper climb than you’ve had to cope with for a while. Crossing the Gweek road just south of another earthwork site on Naphene Downs you’ll level for a bit, before a dog-leg junction drops you into Nancenoy where the far side is a positive wall in terms of gradient. The only good news in terms of effort is that the permissive bridleway turn off follows the farm track just before the stone stepped clamber into the raised field where the official bridleway sign points. You’ve still got a bit of climbing to do before you reach the edge of Constantine and the end of this section of the route.
Constantine Although named after a Celtic Saint (who might also have been a local king) an underground Fogou at Pixies Hall just to the north suggest a much older origin for this village. Norman elements to the church and the low stone medieval houses of Fore Street still give it a timeless feel though. While it’s definitely quieter than during its mineral-rich past (tin, iron, copper, gold and granite were all mined or quarried locally) it’s still got a pub, shop and hairdressers to refresh you physically and cosmetically. There are various places to stay locally too, with more options in Gweek and Helston as well if you fancy tying off your lap of the Lizard with an overnight in the area. 71
Parts 5 and 6 overview
A Mining Moonscape PART FIVE
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Navigation If you’ve managed all right this far, you’ll be fine with the twisting and turning mix of roads and bridleways. If not, it will require some concentration, especially round Stithians. There’s another lost way section at Trethellan Water to be aware of because it has been incorrectly signed as a footpath. While the mining trails from Lanner onwards simplify things, there are still plenty of different junctions on and off roads to line up in the right order. The clearly marked cycle path into Portreath is a nice relaxing way to finish, though.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
Area introduction and route summary We’re heading back across the spine of West Kernow again on Part 5, and the start has a similar vibe to Part 3 with rural back lanes, byways and rolling hills. While you start riding through a wood past a prehistoric fogou (man-made underground cave system), the tracks and roads north are a little more open than previous parts, so there’s the chance to take in the beautiful rolling scenery as you climb past Halvosso. It’s great to see Cornwall’s industrial past being repurposed for recreation with old quarries and reservoirs becoming watersports and activity centres, but you’ll still pass a couple of working sites that show the wealth of Cornwall still hidden under its rich, rolling farmland. Things change dramatically just south of Lanner. The hard-packed bases of old mining railways give you a traffic-free, easy terrain tailwind under and over bridges, past old engine houses and chimneys gradually being absorbed by ivy. Some of the trails turn into surprisingly twisty singletrack descents, so be ready on your brakes and bell as they’re popular with dog walkers too.
The mining epicentre of Goon Gumpas is like an inland version of the north west coast mining sites of Part 2, but with an even more evident effect on the stripped-raw environment. It’s a fascinating area to ride through, however, and the industrial reality of Cornwall’s recent past is vividly prominent. The healing soon starts at Scorrier where trees wrap round the old mine wounds like bandages. Then it’s a rare busy section of contemporary working Cornwall that you dodge through over the A30. The busyness vanishes as fast as it appears and you’re soon cruising through open country on winding gravel mining trails and back roads past village cricket pitches to Cambrose. There, you’d never know dark Cold War secrets were brewing for decades on a seemingly deserted airfield just to the north. Then it’s a particularly pretty and easy final furlong through tunnels of trees on another mining trail. This sneaks you swiftly and smugly into Portreath village without touching the busy road you can see running parallel through the trees below.
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Cornish Pixies One thing we’ve not talked about yet are Cornwall’s most famous residents, particularly since Harry Potter: Cornish Pixies or Piskies. Despite similar size, wings and magical powers, don’t make the mistake of thinking they’re fairies – according to folklore, the two tiny peoples often fight. These famously territorial sprites have maintained their magical grip on south west England, typically housing themselves in ancient Celtic sites. Like their human co-habitants, they’re normally very friendly and love to celebrate with dances and parties, but they also love to play practical tricks on travellers. They certainly had fun with us on our recce ride, so be sure to be respectful if you want their blessings and help around your lap of Cornwall. If you do find yourself being led astray by the piskies, you can escape their spell by turning your coat inside out. 78
Constantine to Lanner The route leaves from the centre of Constantine on a quiet, dead-end back lane so keep your eyes peeled for the sneak onto the bridleway on your left between two cottage garden walls. The bridleway leading north out of Constantine on Well Lane has occasionally been blocked by a locked gate, so you might have to detour onto the track to the left in order to rejoin the bridleway past the house. This leads you straight into a thick ‘Cornish rainforest’ that climbs up above a stream said to be frequented by local Piskies. No surprise then that they’ve got their own Hall in the field just to your left.
Fogou These underground stone passages with large capstones are very similar to chambered cairns, although they typically date to the Iron Age 2,000 years later, and sometimes sit at the centre of settlements such as the beautiful igloo-style chamber at Carn Euny on the Penwith Peninsula. There are only 15 fogous in Cornwall, but similar structures are found in northern Europe and the Shetland Islands.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
Pixies Hall Fogou One of the most easterly of the known fogous in Cornwall, Pixies Hall, is hidden under bushes in the middle of a field and surrounded by trace remains of the original settlement. The surviving structure is 8m long, but there is evidence of buried side passages which possibly led to other entrances. Nineteenth-century antiquarian excavators found Iron Age pottery inside the chamber, tying in with dating evidence from other fogous.
Once you’re past the hump of the Pixies Hall fogou, you follow the forest trail past old quarry scars before a drop to the old mill at Trewardreva. If you’re hungry (or just need supplies for later), we’d thoroughly recommend a stop at the wonderful ‘Slice of Cornwall’ here too. The size of the portions mean you might not thank us as you tackle the stiff climb up straight afterwards, but at least the trees will keep the weather or heat off as you settle into your rhythm. You’ll need to keep that tempo going as you split left onto a gravel track over the top of the open hillside where you’ll swap weather shelter for wonderful views of the rolling hills you’ve conquered and the few more to come. Don’t get too carried away on the gravel farm track descent as it turns sharply around three sides of the scattered farm buildings of Job’s Water, but at least the climb up to the road is sort of surfaced for an easier roll.
Passing a handful of large villa cottages, you’ll dive into lush green singletrack then pop out onto the gently sloping pastures of the wonderfully named Polkanuggo farm. You go right through the farmyard here, which a very vocal spaniel wasn’t so keen about on our recce ride. The farmer himself is very friendly, though, so please be respectful and cheery and keep the gates shut as you pass through so he stays that way. Grassy farm track becomes typical deeply-hedged Cornish twisty back lanes to Stithians, then it’s west onto mixed-surface bridleways past the reservoirs with their uniquely Cornish aerator bubbles to keep them fresh. The far side of the reservoir is a sailing and watersports centre with a pub and camping for anyone fancying an aquatic detour, but otherwise you’ll double back briefly on the road before heading up a gravel bridleway bordered by a dry stone wall into a section of utterly untouched ancient Cornwall. Be prepared for the centre section to be a ride up a babbling stream bed even in summer, so if you want to keep your feet dry, short-cut this part on the road. More rolling road takes you to the next section of off-road at Trethellan Water, a well-surfaced track that climbs up onto a hilltop with panoramic views over the Carnon Valley.
Although the landscape of tiny Celtic fields is largely untouched, you’ll pass two quarries that are now used for watersports and action adventure, while the ‘crops’ across the valley include sheets of shimmering solar panels. Bites are still being taken out of the mineral-rich spine of Cornwall at the top of the hill, though. After a quick dog-leg across the busy main road, it’s back to the idyllically quiet, rural Cornwall you’ll have to come to love by now. 79
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Lost way section at Trethellan Water Just north of Stithians Reservoir, there’s a confusing path which is shown as a bridleway on the OS map but signed as a footpath on the ground. Historic maps from throughout the 1900s and earlier
Rocks cleared from fields thousands of years ago form the base of the thick, low hedge banks here but, when you turn right onto the next farm track, you’re suddenly rolling down into a managed landscape of an entirely different scale. Switchbacking left, you’ll be onto the first section of mining trail that climbs through thickets and shale mounds that surround a warren of old excavation shafts. You’ll then loop all the way round south of Lanner on the bed of the old railway that carried the earth’s treasures north.
The rugged Cornish landscape inevitably means there are lots of steep climbs and descents along the way... 80
show this track as a public road, and an application has been submitted to upgrade it to a restricted byway on that basis. More details are on Cornwall Council’s website under reference WCA684.
Lanner short circuit As you divert briefly onto the road just north east of Lanner, the crashed flying saucer (it’s actually a covered reservoir but that’s much less exciting) and radio masts mark the point where you have the option to short circuit the whole lap of Portreath and Redruth with just a couple of kilometres of gravel railway track and back road.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape
Portreath
Lanner to Portreath Cross the main road carefully and climb through the housing estate to join the mining trail heading east around Carn Marth past ruined engine houses jutting out of the trees. From here, it’s just a diversion of a few hundred metres north to the fascinating site of Gwennap Pit, which is nothing like what you might expect from the name. After the engine house, you drop downhill on the road onto the multiple sections of mining trail that vary from broad railway to fenced snicket to woodside singletrack until you suddenly roll out into the moonscape of Goon Gumpas. This scoured landscape was the site of multiple mines whose chimneys and buildings can be seen on the skyline, while toxic mineral deposits still stain the settling lagoons of this ecological open wound.
Gwennap Pit While it’s formed in the bowl left by collapsed mine workings, and the 12 concentric rings stepping down like a circular amphitheatre look ancient, Gwennap Pit is a religious site with a far more recent history. Revolutionary Methodist John Wesley preached at the site 18 times between 1762 and 1789 and called it “the most magnificent spectacle this side of heaven”. It’s still in use for worship today and the visitor centre has a museum of Methodism as well as a café. 81
Cycling UK day from the mine workings, with an average depth of over 400m. Here 3,000 men and boys toiled, often in temperatures well over 40º C, to extract nearly half a million tons of copper ore over 40 years.
The mines of Goon Gumpas At one time this area had more steam engines than the whole of continental Europe and America combined. In the 1840s these helped pump out 66 million litres of water a
Diving into the deep railway cutting east to Twelveheads, you’ll double back on a slightly lower traverse across the toxic landscape of Goon Gumpas. It’s then an amazing contrasting transformation into thick woodland followed by idyllic open pastures as you follow the cycle path north to Scorrier. The landscape ‘waterboarding’ continues as you’re dunked back into woodland, past the pub at Scorrier, then briefly onto a main road to cross the really big A30 main road on a bridge. From there, you turn off down a gravel track past a remarkable miniature
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The heyday of Cornish mining didn’t last long, as the technology and expertise developed here spread worldwide (together with the miners themselves), and the site was later used as a tip and settling lagoons for other local mines. These have left high levels of arsenic, copper and zinc that make it toxic to live on and the many shafts in the area are potentially very dangerous too, so make sure you stay on the bike path. While it’s a sombre, unsettling sight, they do create some incredible staining colours in summer when the lagoons dry out.
Nancekuke Airfield Apart from its splendid name, the large WWII RAF base on the plateau just north of Portreath seems unremarkable. It was a fighter base for a while, before hosting squadrons of Atlantic patrol aircraft. Afterwards, it was mostly used as an occasional staging post for aircraft flying from America to Africa and the Mediterranean. However, there’s a darker element buried in the site and surrounding mine workings. Renamed the ‘Chemical Defense Establishment,’ by the 1950s it was producing tons of Sarin and VX nerve gas as well as other chemical weapons. Despite a cloak of secrecy, the site was exposed for what it was in 1965 owing to the related deaths and health issues of site workers and locals – including those up the coast at Porthtowan where large number of mystery seal deaths were also reported. The lab site was demolished and buried in 1980 with much of the equipment apparently sunk into mine shafts, but investigations into the site’s operation and related compensation claims are still ongoing.
Part 5: A Mining Moonscape mine model in a bungalow’s back garden, and then onto more wooded mine track, all in the space of less than a kilometre. Thankfully, there’s now an extended section of old mining trail that snakes gently north east before joining a highhedged singletrack road that’ll eventually take you right back to the deserted lanes of Penwith at the start of your adventure. There’s even a cricket pitch tucked into an island of three lanes at Laity Moor. From here, it’s a mixture of back lanes and gently swooping gravel bike lanes marked as mining paths funnelling you into the neck of a steep-sided, oakwooded SSSI valley to the pretty and historically very important coastal village of Portreath where this section ends.
Portreath With a name that means sandy cove in Cornish and a large prehistoric settlement overlooking the village above Nance Wood, Portreath undoubtedly has a long history. Tin mining and pilchard fishing were the main trades in the medieval period. By the early 19th century, ships carrying copper ore from the mines inland to Swansea for smelting and returning with Welsh coal for the pump engines had made it Cornwall’s busiest port. A tramway that connected the harbour to the mainline uphill can still be seen, but a cholera outbreak that tragically killed half the population and the collapse of the tin trade meant the port soon lost importance. It’s on the map again now, though, thanks to its incredible sunsets across a beach that’s popular with surfers and birdwatchers, as well as those like us enjoying the network of repurposed mining trails on bike or foot.
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Coast to Coast PART SIX
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39km
Part 6 – Coast to Coast
Portreath to Marazion Distance: 44km
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Ascent: 699m
Highlights
Be aware
• Start and finish on different coasts • Wildlife rescue centre • Mining trails • Panoramic views • Mining archaeology • Mining museum • Shire horse museum • Nature reserves • Unspoilt villages • Coastal towns • Battleship shipwrecks • St Michael's Mount
• The cycle path through the college at Camborne will be busy with students during term time
Navigation You’ll be following a lot of the mining trail signposts again on this part of the route, particularly the Great Flat Lode Trail. Be aware, though, that the signs change to ‘Public Bridleway’ or ‘Public Byway’ from Treskillard. Even on the mining trails there are a lot of junctions and bridging sections of roads to keep your eye on. This is made harder by the route snaking around in every direction as it meanders towards the St Erth crossover, so you won’t be able to second guess where it goes next purely by orientation. After a lurch northwards at Wheal Alfred, you start heading in a more predictable south westerly direction, but a mix of meandering back road and farm track bridleway mean you’ll still need to pay very close attention to your navigation. 86
• The mining trails are unsurprisingly popular with all sorts of users including young families and horses, so while the surface and flatness potentially make them fast and easy-rolling, please ride responsibly and respectfully. The old mining trail infrastructure will take you under or over all the major roads, though • The broad, multi-lane main road junction at Camborne can be busy, but there are cycle lanes and crossing lights to help you get across safely • The track up to Penberthy from Trannack Farm is another ‘lost way’ route which changes status from bridleway to footpath at the stream at the bottom. They didn’t seem to mind us riding when we forgot, but hop off if you’re asked • The short section of coast road and the car park at Marazion can be busy with traffic and pedestrians wandering in all directions, so take it easy into the finish The final furlong is fairly simple, contouring round Marazion Hill until you can see St Michael’s Mount where the West Kernow Way officially finishes. There’s also a nice low-traffic route if you need to get back into Penzance.
Part 6: Coast to Coast
Carn Brea Castle
Area introduction and route summary The final section of the route is possibly the most varied of all, with some wonderful juxtapositions of old and new. Climbing north steeply from the coast, you’ll swap fishing boats and coves for a holiday and wildlife park. Dipping in and out of suburban Cornwall, you’ll roll past houses of all ages and straight through a modern college, but the stark remains of the area’s mining past are everywhere. From skyline chimneys to the tunnels and bridges you’ll ride through and over, the industrial history of this area is almost inescapable. We say almost, as the optional climb to the top of Carn Brea will not only unlock an incredible 360º view, but also take you to an oasis of upland wildness. It’s a place where Neolithic people settled around the ancient rocks, 6th century saints visited wells, elaborate ‘castle’ hunting lodges sit on medieval chapel remains, and a dramatic monument was built for a Baron.
Then you’re back into the thick of mining action as engine houses and other buildings fight to avoid drowning under ivy and copses. While the gritty surface will be familiar, the signs for mining trails swap for bridleway and byway signs as you head into the more rural landscape around St Erth where you cross over the outward leg of the journey. Then it’s pure agricultural Penwith with tiny twisting lanes and farm tracks heaving over short but leg-testing hills, through a landscape of prehistoric monuments and derelict mines returning to nature. Then it’s the final swing around Marazion hill (or you can go over the top if you want to finish through the town itself) before the final roll to St Michael’s Mount. Part 6 is a mix of on and off-road riding but there are no technical challenges, apart from the shortcut up to the summit of Carn Brea. While this section is relatively short, it includes some steep hills, particularly at the start, so pace yourself accordingly. 87
Cycling UK
Portreath to Carn Brea Make sure you have a good limber up in Portreath as you’re climbing steeply straight away. You roll under the bottom end of the old incline used for hauling wagons up to the main railway from the harbour. You then switchback round past a splendidly indulgent castle-style house, and then it’s a steep crawl up through the lush woodland alongside the incline on a gravel track. Popping out at the top you take a quick tour of the Feadon Wildlife and Holiday Park complete with fancy fountains and baby goats to be fussed. If you fancy something a bit more bucolic, you can divert west to loop through Tehidy Country Park and then rejoin the route at Tolvaddon. Back lanes and suburban streets take you to the hedged bridleway over the A30 and then through the campus of the local college. There’s a dodge across the busy, broad main road at Pool and then onto mining tracks travelling back in time to when the many engine houses and shafts were the noisy heart of Cornwall’s mining heyday. The trails are still a great way to glide through the area on gentle gradients making the most of tunnels
Tehidy Country Park
Once the country park of the Basset family who built the monument and castle at Carn Brea, Tehidy Country Park is now a council-owned oasis of paths and lakes with a bridleway through the centre that makes a lovely bonus detour from the West Kernow Way.
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and bridges to stay away from traffic, and when you briefly pop out onto National Cycle Network Route 3/The Great Flat Lode Trail with Carn Brea on your right shoulder, you’ll suddenly feel out in the wilds again. There’s the option to take a singletrack climb up to the summit to enjoy an incredible panoramic view right along the coast past St Ives, if your legs haven’t had enough of what’s mostly been a climb so far.
Tunnel near Portreath
Part 6: Coast to Coast
Great Flat Lode Trail This 12km shared use trail takes you on a loop around Carn Brea from King Edward’s Mine, roughly following the route of a shallow tin seam found in the area in 1860 just as local copper deposits had been mined out.
Carn Brea With its imposing position high above the surrounding countryside, it’s no surprise that the hilltop of Carn Brea has been occupied several times, but it’s a more sporadic settlement than you might expect. Neolithic settlers cleared trees and built two enclosures on the summit around 3700-3400 BC and used local rocks to make stone axes for trading. Over 700 flint arrowheads and the fact all the buildings were burnt down suggests a bad end to the occupation. The site was reoccupied and refortified in the Iron Age 500 BC. It continued to be used for the next 1,000 years with a hoard of gold coins from France and Kent suggesting it was a high-status site.
A chapel was built in medieval times, but Carn Brea ‘Castle’ is actually an 18th century hunting lodge just made to look like a castle. The same family also built the large pillar monument on the hill which can be seen from miles around. Carn Brea has always had a magical/spiritual side too. A cup and saucer-shaped rock on the hill is called ‘the sacrificing stone’ and St Euny’s Well has likely always been a sacred site. Bonfires are still held on the summit as part of a signalling tradition along the length of the county. One of the few surviving blue Ford Anglia ‘flying cars’ from Harry Potter was found here after being stolen from a nearby film studio too.
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Carn Brea to Hayle Dropping down from Carn Brea to Carnkie, you pick up the Great Flat Lode Trail again. You’ll be zooming along mostly flat or slightly descending tracks through one of the best-preserved sections of mining landscapes on the route, where large storage and working buildings, bathhouses and several tall chimneyed engine houses are all fighting to stay free of strangling undergrowth. It’s this direct contrast and
interplay between moor and heathland and such obvious industrial features that makes this part of the trip so fascinating, and a reflection of the two opposing sides of Cornwall that create its unique character. After visiting the King Edward Mine Museum on our recce trip, we’ve diverted the route right through it, as it’s a fascinating resource with a great little café in the Croust Hut.
The rise and fall of Cornish mining The mining museum at King Edward Mine near Troon is a great place to fully understand the intense industrial past and technological importance of this area, and get a glimpse of the equipment and conditions of 19th century mining. As brutal as it sounds, most Cornish people chose to work in the mines as the pay and conditions were better and more consistent than working on farms. ‘Bal Maidens’ – the girls and women who processed the ore on the surface – were paid much more than they would have been if they’d worked as servants. They could also stay in their own homes with their families,
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and they were relatively well treated by the mine owners especially if their husbands were injured or died down the shafts. Unfortunately, such dependence on mining meant that as local lodes became uneconomical and the mining rush in ‘new’ countries exploded, moving to other areas – often North or South America, Africa, New Zealand and Australia – was the only option for many Cornish families. Interestingly, the best way to track the emigration is by seeing where pasties are considered a local food speciality (Michigan, Montana and parts of Wisconsin and California in the US). Australia is even included in the Protected Geographical Indication status that otherwise forbids use of the name ‘Cornish pasty’ outside the county.
Part 6: Coast to Coast
From the mining museum, it’s a dramatic shift from industrial Cornwall to agricultural – the next museum is even dedicated to shire horses – as you climb up and over Copper Hill and the mining trails become bridleways and byways. Ancient woods and streams replace engine houses and you’ll soon be spinning past the Neolithic to Iron Age site of The Giant’s Quoit. Recently excavated by archaeologists and the local community, the collapsed stones were also re-erected to return it to its 5,000-year-old appearance on the summer solstice of 2012.
Heading north past the old mine of Barripper on idyllic, high-banked back roads that you might have missed recently, you’ll climb up and around another ancient settlement at ‘The Hood’ before contouring round the rich, rounded hills and jigsawpiece Celtic field shapes of the Polmenor Downs, criss-crossing the main railway line on old bridges as you go. You briefly rejoin NCN Route 3 to pass the rare triple-aisled church and manor house at Gwinear before turning south through the farm on Drannack Lane. Old mine shafts in hilltop heathland, densely wooded stream valleys, narrow lanes and gravel tracks couldn’t feel more Cornish as you work your way south of Hayle (or divert into it for snacks/ stopover/stroll on the beach purposes).
The final section of the route is possibly the most varied of all, with some wonderful juxtapositions of old and new. Giant's Quoit
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Hayle Hayle’s position at the head of the Hayle River on the south of St Ives Bay made it an important sea port as far back as the Neolithic period, with direct trading links to Ireland, Wales and even eastern Mediterranean Phoenician merchants as local tin became a vital ingredient in the development of the early Bronze Age. An Iron Age settlement and then a Roman fort overlooked the area, and it became a centre for Christian missionaries arriving in Cornwall with several of the more famous local saints all coming ashore at the Hayle estuary.
The area then largely vanishes from history for about 1,200 years until tin smelters start being built nearby and Welsh coal starts being imported to power the mine engines. That meant huge growth and prosperity for the area for the next two centuries and Hayle also became a centre for dynamite manufacture. Unfortunately, it was the local economy that imploded in the 20th century, but its local beaches, sand dunes and World Heritage listed harbour make it a rightfully popular holiday destination. There’s a large supermarket too for any supplies you need for your final push across Penwith to the south coast.
Lost way section between Trannack and Penberthy Cross A short stretch of path recorded as a footpath connects the dead-end road from Penberthy Cross (site of an interesting former Wesleyan chapel) to the path network East of the river Hayle, (which forms the boundary between the parishes of St Erth and St Hilary). Early 19th century maps from both parishes show strong evidence that this was a through route in the past, with Bartholemew’s mapping from the first half of the 20th century even identifying the route as a good surface for cycling. However, this 92
link was somehow omitted when parishes recorded their rights of way in the 1950’s. Cycling UK has submitted a claim for the route to be recorded as restricted byway.
Part 6: Coast to Coast
Mount's Bay cycle path
Hayle to Marazion As you head south, it’s time to start really savouring the last part of your West Kernow Way experience. We’re pretty sure Cornwall will have worked its enchantment on you by now but, after a few days’ riding, it’s easy to become used to its idyllically quiet gravel tracks and back lanes. The rolling landscape where old industry and ancient mystery overlap is unique and we guarantee you’ll be wanting to return as soon as you leave, so make the most of the remaining kilometres. While there are still some climbs and descents to give well-worked legs and brakes a squeeze, the landscape will seem to relax with you. It’s less dramatic than the wild moors of north Penwith or the rugged coastlines of the Lizard, and prehistory and mining remains are hinted at rather than made monumental. That leaves you plenty of headspace to reflect on what a wonderful adventure you’ve had through a remarkably diverse landscape as you roll across your last gravel at Truthwall and then briefly join the leafy back lanes of NCN Route 3 through Gwallon. After mere minutes on the last bit of narrow lane past old whitewashed
farmhouses and bright gardens, Mount’s Bay and Penlee Point come into view ahead. Shortly afterwards, the iconic part-time island of St Michael’s Mount suddenly reveals itself just a kilometre away to the south across the sea. Don’t get too distracted as you cross the coast road, though, as it can be busy and the pavement on the far side is shared between cyclists and pedestrians. The car park can be a bit of a scrum too, but as you push along the promenade towards Marazion and the causeway to the Mount, it’s hard to imagine a more memorable and appropriately Cornish finish for an adventure so rich in history and natural beauty. 93
Cycling UK
St Michael’s Mount St Michael’s Mount is a tiny but fascinating place. It’s now a tidal island that you can cross onto via a natural granite causeway at low tide. Its old Cornish name of Karrek Loos yn Koos, meaning ‘grey rock in the woodland’, strongly suggests it was still mainland when mankind arrived. The remains of a fossilised forest can be seen at really low tides. While the stacked buildings on the Mount mean there are no traces of early settlement, there are traces of Iron Age ‘cliff castle’ fortification. The Mount is the prime candidate for being considered as ‘Ictis’, the tin trading island mentioned in histories written in the Mediterranean area during the 1st century BC. It became a monastery and a defended site about 1,000 years later and continued this dual spiritual and strategic role for most of the next 1,000 years, regularly being the site of sieges until the end of the English Civil War.
It’s hard to imagine a more memorable and appropriately Cornish finish for an adventure so rich in history and natural beauty. 94
The village at its base really started prospering in the 18th century as a fishing and trading port. The arrival of the railway in Penzance made it a popular tourist attraction and the castle was made more fairytale in the 19th century, with an underground railway from harbour to top being added in 1900. Pillbox defences were built in WWII but most of the Mount was surrendered to the National Trust in the 1950s. Its history makes it a remarkable place to spend some time too, so we’d definitely recommend a visit as part of your Cornish adventure.
Part 6: Coast to coast
Mount's Bay
Marazion The pretty town of Marazion overlooking St Michael’s Mount has been a settlement since at least the Bronze Age when local mining and smelting was taking place. According to tax records, it was a far more important port than Penzance well into the medieval period. The harbour and toll road running through town meant it remained a key part of Cornwall’s import/export and fishing trades for a long time. Prussia Cove to the south was also infamous for piracy and shipwrecks, claiming its last significant victim when the massive battleship Warspite ran aground in a storm on her way to being scrapped in Scotland in 1947. Now it has a much more relaxed, visitor-based vibe, making it a great place to relax for a bit after your West Kernow Way adventure. There’s plenty of local accommodation too.
Gwelen – Conjuring up the Forest While the West Kernow Way officially finishes at St Michael’s Mount, you might need a way to get back to Penzance. Fortunately, the Mount’s Bay Coast Path offers an easy, scenic route between the two. Through the EXPERIENCE project, the route has recently been resurfaced (due to be completed in autumn 2021) and includes new artwork from award-winning artist Emma Smith. Gwelen reimagines the ancient submerged forest within Mount’s Bay, an enchanting phenomenon that is occasionally uncovered at very low tides. Made up of ‘seeing sticks’
along the path, the artwork creates the impression of clusters of trees from which to rest and collectively imagine. You are invited to reflect on the hidden geologies, entanglement of landscape and human experience, climate emergency and power of collective thought, to conjure up the forest. Gwelen has been commissioned by the EXPERIENCE project at Cornwall Council and is co-funded by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) through the Interreg France (Channel) England Programme under the Natural and Cultural Heritage funding category. 95
Cycling UK
Places and facilities For places that are a slight detour from the West Kernow Way route, the distance and ascent shown relate to the closest point on the route. Distance from Distance Ascent start (km) between (km) (m) Penzance
0
0
0
Newlyn
3
3
21
Mousehole
6
3
32
Lamorna
10
4
123
Treen
16
7
146
Porthcurno
19
3
44
Sennen
26
7
126
Land's End
28
2
28
Land's End Youth Hostel (Cot Valley)
37
9
105
St Just
41
4
155
Botallack / The Count House
44
3
27
Zennor (3km off route)
57
13
220
St Ives / Carbis Bay (5km off route)
60
3
43
Lelant (3km off route)
65
5
38
Hayle (3km off route)
67
2
0
St Erth
69
2
23
Praa Sands (3km off route)
78
9
178
Porthleven
89
11
158
92
3
68
Mullion
100
8
201
Lizard
111
11
132
Lizard Point
112
1
0
Cadgwith
118
6
65
Coverack
129
11
190
Gweek
147
18
380
Helston (6km off route)
148
1
0
Constantine
153
5
197
Falmouth (8km off route)
156
3
130
Lanner
172
15
258
Redruth
173
1
25
Portreath
192
19
186 94
Helston (5km off route)
Illogan
195
3
Camborne
198
3
31
Hayle (4km off route)
220
21
344
Marazion
236
16
231
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B&B/ Hotel
Hostels/ self-catering
Campsite
Pub/ Café restaurant
Shop
Bike shop
Train station
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Cycling UK
Suggested itineraries Here are our suggested overnight stopping points to help you plan your trip. For places which are a slight detour from the main route, distances relate to the closest point on the route. The total distance is 236km with 3999m of ascent. Three nights – 60km per day
Distance from start (km)
Cumulative ascent (m)
St Ives (5km off route)
63
1070
Coverack
130
2123
Portreath
191
3299
Two nights – 80km per day (Option one)
Distance from start (km)
Cumulative ascent (m)
St Erth (or Hayle 3km off route)
70
1131
147
2503
Two nights – 80km per day (Option two)
Distance from start (km)
Cumulative ascent (m)
Helston (5km off route)
92
1535
173
3113
Gweek (or Helston 6km off route)
*
*
Redruth
The shape of the route means it’s possible to stop in Helston before or after riding around the Lizard Peninsula, which is why the distances are different. *
Through the EXPERIENCE project, Cycling UK has developed Cycle Hubs in the Mount’s Bay area (Marazion and Penzance) and Helston. We are supporting hospitality businesses in these hub locations and along the West Kernow Way route to become accredited Cycle Friendly Places, so you know you will be greeted with a warm welcome and everything you need. cyclinguk.org/cyclefriendlyplaces 98
Image credits Front cover image by Jordan Gibbons/ Pannier.
Part 4 All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except:
Contents page All images by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except bottom right image by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier.
p.59 by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK; p.60 Poldhu Point by Alamy; p.61 Mullion harbour by Visit Cornwall; p.61 by Robert Pittman (CC BY-ND 2.0); p.63 Lizard National Nature Reserve by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.64 Lizard lighthouse by Tom Bastin (CC BY 2.0) and bottom image by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.66 Cadgwith by Katherine Moore and Coverack by John Such/Visit Cornwall; p.68 Gweek by Judy Dean (CC BY 2.0) and Goonhilly Earth Station by Adam Gibbard/Visit Cornwall; p.70 seal sanctuary by Stuart Richards (CC BY-ND 2.0) and Helford river by Visit Cornwall; p.71 top image by Stefan Amato/Pannier and Constantine church by Tim Green (CC BY 2.0).
Introduction All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier or Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except: p.14 by Sam Jones/Cycling UK; p.18 fogou by Andrew Bone (CC BY 2.0); p.19 cream tea by Guy Kesteven. Part 1 All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except: p.22 by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.23 top image by Visit Cornwall; p.26 top image by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK; p.27, Jubilee Pool by Visit Cornwall; p.29, top image courtesy of Porthcurno Museum of Global Communications and bottom image by Visit Cornwall; p.30 top image by Robert Spanring/ Cycling UK; p.31 Cornish chough by Mike Prince (CC BY 2.0). Part 2 All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier or Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except: p.34 by Katherine Moore; p.36 Land’s End Youth Hostel by Philip Halling (CC BY-SA 2.0); p.39, St Just by Ed Webster (CC BY 2.0) and Levant Engine House by Katherine Moore; p.40 Tinners Way by Katherine Moore; p.42 Trencrom Hill by John Stratford (CC BY 2.0). Part 3 All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except: p.48 by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK; p.50 Tregonning Hill by Laurie Cate (CC BY 2.0); p.51 Godolphin House by Tim Green (CC BY 2.0).
Part 5 All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier except: p.78 fogou by Andrew Bone (CC BY 2.0); p.79 by Stefan Amato/Pannier; p.80 by Katherine Moore; p.81 Portreath by Tom Bastin (CC BY 2.0) and Gwennap Pit by Tim Green (CC BY 2.0); p.82 historic tin mine postcard by Unknown; p.83 top image by Katherine Moore and bottom image by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK. Part 6 All images by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier or Robert Spanring/Cycling UK except: p.88, top image by Guy Kesteven and Tehidy Country Park by Darren Shilson (CC BY 2.0); p.89 top image by Guy Kesteven and main image by Tim Green (CC BY 2.0); p.91 top image by Guy Kesteven and Giant’s Quoit by Jim Champion (CC BY-SA 2.0); p.92 Hayle by Ben Sutherland (CC BY 2.0). Back pages p.97 top image by Robert Spanring/Cycling UK and other images by Jordan Gibbons/ Pannier; p.98 by Jordan Gibbons/Pannier. 99
Cycling UK
Afterword Imagine being able to cycle the length and breadth of the country on connected off-road trails, through fascinating places and amazing landscapes. As the UK’s cycling charity, Cycling UK is working to make this a reality by campaigning for wider off-road access for cycling and developing new longdistance trails to link existing routes. We started with the North Downs Way riders’ route, and followed that up with the Great North Trail and King Alfred’s Way. The West Kernow Way is the next step on that journey. cyclinguk.org/offroadcampaigns
Exploring our forests, moors and valleys by bike is inspiring and spirit-lifting. It’s the best way to discover new places, and a great boost for rural tourism. We believe everyone should have the opportunity to ride from their door on connected traffic-free trails. If you share our vision, do something incredible and join Cycling UK today. Because together, we can make a better world by bike.
Become a member of Cycling UK Join over 70,000 members and receive:
We are the UK’s cycling charity Cycling is amazing, which is why we want everyone to enjoy the thrill of the ride by making our streets safer, opening up new traffic-free routes and inspiring more people to get on their bikes. We have more than 140 years’ experience of supporting cyclists and campaigning for their rights. We believe everyone has the right to ride a bike, have access to safe routes and to be given the skills to cycle with confidence. But we need can’t bring about change alone. Our community of passionate members and supporters give us a louder voice to lobby government and inspire millions more people to cycle.
• Free third-party liability insurance and legal assistance • Discount on cycle insurance (includes mountain bikes and e-bikes) with Yellow Jersey • Retailer discounts and benefits. • Cycle magazine every two months for inspiring routes, advice, news and reviews • Your membership directly supports the work we do to make a better world by bike cyclinguk.org/join If membership isn’t for you, please consider a donation to help Cycling UK to continue our work in opening up more rural access for cycling and campaigning for improving conditions for cyclists all over the UK. cyclinguk.org/donate
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About the author Guy Kesteven has been exploring historic England by bike ever since his mum used to stick him in his child seat along with the groceries for trips into York. A qualified and time-served archaeologist, he’s stayed amongst mud on a daily basis as a professional bike tester for leading global websites and magazines. He also has his own YouTube channel GuyKesTV where you can find a rough guide to the West Kernow Way filmed during the creation of this guidebook.
"Rocky coastal bridleways yielding cove after cove, towering relics of Cornwall’s rich mining history and ancient, lost rights of way; the West Kernow Way marvellously pieces together West Cornwall’s history and culture with sublime off-road tracks and tranquil country lanes." Katherine Moore, Unpaved podcast
"Cycling the West Kernow Way is a deep dive into the majestic landscape and the rich cultural history of this exquisite part of Britain. The riding, on lanes lined with fern banks and on byways across breathtaking moors, is challenging and rewarding in equal measure." Rob Penn, journalist and author of It’s All About the Bike
"The West Kernow Way is a perfect cocktail of steep hills, quiet coastal villages, beautiful gravel trails and colourful Cornish countryside. This route certainly ticks all the boxes when it comes to experiencing the best of West Cornwall!" Vedangi Kulkarni, youngest woman to cycle around the world
Facebook and Twitter Find us on: T: 01483 238301 cyclinguk.org Cycling UK, Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX Cycling UK is a trading name of Cyclists’ Touring Club (CTC) a company limited by guarantee, registered in England no: 25185. Registered as a charity in England and Wales charity no: 1147607 and in Scotland charity no: sco42541. Registered office: Parklands, Railton Road, Guildford, Surrey GU2 9JX.