Big 4 - #4 Hair Color Services State Board Review Chapter 21
1. What are the few common reasons why clients color their hair? Cover up or blend gray (unpigmented) hair Enhance an existing color Create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure, such as sun or chlorine Accentuate a particular haircut
2. What determines the right haircolor to use? The structure of the client’s hair and the desired results determine which haircolor to use.
3. Why study Haircolor? Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding of haircoloring because:
Haircolor services provide stylists and clients with an opportunity for creative expression and artistry. Clients increasingly ask for and require excellent haircoloring services to cover gray, to enhance their haircuts, and to camouflage face-shape imperfections. Haircolor products employ strong chemical ingredients to accomplish services, so being aware of what these chemicals are and how they work will enable you to safely provide color services for your clients 1|Page
4. Describe hair texture and how it relates to haircolor. Hair texture is the diameter of an individual hair strand. Large-, medium-, and small-diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium, and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently according to texture. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium-textured hair has an average reaction to hair. Coarsetextured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process.
5. Define the following terms. 1. Low Porosity
The cuticle is tight. The hair is resistant, which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer processing time.
2. Average Porosity
The cuticle is slightly raised. The hair is normal and processes in an average amount of time.
3. High Porosity
The cuticle is lifted. The hair is overly porous and takes color quickly; color also tends to fade quickly.
Describe the test for porosity. To review the test for porosity, take a strand of several hairs from four different areas of the head: the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape. Hold strand securely with one hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp. If the hair feels smooth and the cuticle is compact, dense, and hard, it has a low porosity. If the hair feels very rough, dry, or breaks, it has high porosity. 6. Name and describe the 2 types of melanin in the cortex. 1. Eumelanin
Eumelanin is the melanin that lends black and brown colors to hair.
2. Pheomelanin
Pheomelanin is the melanin that gives blond and red colors to hair.
3. Mixed melanin
is a combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin.
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7. What is a contributing pigment? Contributing pigment (undertone) lies under the natural haircolor and must be taken into consideration when you select a haircolor. Generally, when you lighten natural hair color, you expose contributing pigment. Haircoloring modifies this pigment to create new pigment.
8. What is the Level System? Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. Level is the saturation, density, or concentration of color. The level of color answers the following question: How much color? Colorists use the level system to determine the lightness of darkness of colors. Haircolor levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 the lightest. Although names for the color levels may vary among manufacturers, the important thing is being able to identify the degrees of lightness to darkness in each level.
9. What is the best way to identify the level of hair on previously colored hair? When formulating haircolor, it is as important to be able to identify the level and tone of previously colored hair as it is identifying the natural level. Follow steps one and two above. However, instead of using the natural level finder, use the color swatches provided by the manufacturer.
10. What is gray hair? Gray hair is hair that has lost its pigment and is normally associated with aging. Even though the loss of pigment increases as a person ages, few people ever become completely gray-haired. Most retain a certain percentage of pigmented hair. The gray can be solid or blended throughout the head as in salt-and-pepper hair. Gray hair requires special attention in formulating haircolor. This will be discussed later in the chapter.
11. What is color theory? Color is described as a property of objects that depends on the light they reflect and is perceived (by the human eye) as red, yellow, blue, or other shades. Thus, colors (the light reflected by objects that is perceivable) by definition are in the visible spectrum of light (see Chapter 13, Basics of Electricity). Before you attempt to apply haircoloring products, it is important to have a general understanding of color theory. A base color is the predominant tone of a color. Once you have a better understanding of color theory, you will see how each haircolor manufacturer associates base colors with color lines.
12. Explain the tone or hue of color. The tone or hue of color is the balance of color. The tone or hue answers the question of which color to use based on the client’s desired results. These tones can be described as warm, cool, or neutral. 3|Page
13. Describe warm tones. Warm tones can look lighter than their actual level. These tones are golden, orange, red, and yellow.
14. Describe cool tones. Cool tones can look deeper than their actual level. These tones are blue, green, and violet. Some describe cool tones as smoky or ash to the client.
15. Describe Natural tones. Natural tones are warm tones, and are described as sandy or tan.
16. In color theory, what is a base color? A base color is the predominant tone of a color. For example, haircolor with a violet base will deliver cool results and will help minimize unwanted yellow tones. A blue-base haircolor will provide the coolest results and minimize orange tones in the hair. A red-orange base will create will create the kind of bright, warm results clients are looking for when they wish to be redheads. Gold bases create beautiful golden haircolor, from brunettes to light blonds.
17. What is the law of color? The law of color is a system for understanding color.
18. Describe primary colors. Primary colors are pure colors that cannot be achieved from mixing colors. Primary colors are blue, red, and yellow. All colors are created from these three primaries. Colors with a predominance of blue are cool colors, whereas colors with a predominance of red and/or yellow are warm colors.
19. What happens when all three primary colors are present in equal proportions? When all three primary colors are present in equal proportions, the resulting color is black, white, or gray depending on the level of the color. It is helpful to think of hair colors in terms of their relative proportions of primary colors. Natural brown, for example, has the primary colors in the following proportions: blue-B, red-RR, and yellow-YYY.
20. Explain tertiary colors. A tertiary color is an immediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. The tertiary colors include blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, and yellowgreen. Natural looking haircolor is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors. 4|Page
21. Explain complementary colors. Complementary colors are a primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel. Complementary colors include blue and orange, red and green, yellow and violet.
22. What do complimentary colors do to each other? Complimentary colors neutralize each other. When formulating haircolor, you will find that it is often your goal to emphasize or distract from skin tones or eye color. You may also want to neutralize or refine unwanted tones in the hair. Understanding complementary colors will help you choose the correct tone to accomplish that goal.
23. Name and describe the two categories that haircoloring products fall into. 
Nonoxidative
The classifications of nonoxidative haircolor are temporary and semi permanent (traditional).

Oxidative
The classifications of oxidative haircolor are demipermanent and permanent (lift and deposit).
24. All oxidative and nonoxidative haircolor products, except ___________________, require a patch test. Temporary.
25. What is hair lightening? Often referred to as bleaching or decolorizing, which is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair. This process is essential to both permanent haircolor and hair lightners.
26. What do all permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain? All permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, and oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient. 5|Page
27. What are the 3 roles of the alkalizing ingredient (ammonia or an ammonia substitute)? 1. Raise the cuticle of the hair so that the haircolor can penetrate into the cortex. 2. Increase the penetration of dye within the hair. 3. Trigger the lightening action of peroxide.
28. When does lightening occur? Lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks up (decolorizes) the melanin.
29. What is a temporary haircolor? For those who wish to neutralize yellow hair or unwanted tones, temporary haircolor is a good choice. The pigments in temporary color are large and do not penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing. Temporary haircolors are nonoxidation colors that make only a physical change, not a chemical change, in the hair shaft, and no patch test is required.
30. Name and describe the 5 varieties and products that are available for temporary haircolor. 1. Color rinses applied weekly shampooed hair to add color; the hair is styled dry 2. Colored mousses and gels used for slight color and dramatic effects 3. Hair mascara used for dramatic effects 4. Spray-on haircolor that is easy to apply; used for special effects 5. Color-enhanced shampoos used to brighten, impart slight color, and eliminate unwanted tones
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31. What is semipermanent haircolor? Traditional semipermanent haircolor is formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hair’s porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing, thus fading with each shampoo. Traditional semipermanent haircolor only lasts 4 to 6 weeks, depending on how frequently the hair is shampooed. Semipermanent haircolor is a nonoxidation haircolor. It is not mixed with peroxide, and only deposits color. It does not lighten the hair, so it does not require maintenance of new growth. Although it is considered far gentler than permanent haircolor, it contains some of the same dyes and requires a patch test 24 to 48 hours before application. Traditional semipermanent colors are used right out of the bottle.
32. What is demipermanent haircolor? Demipermanent haircolor (also called deposit-only haircolor by some manufacturers) is formulated to deposit, but not lift (lighten) color and are often called non-lift deposit-only colors. These products are able to deposit without lifting because they are usually less alkaline than permanent colors and are mixed with a low-volume developer. Decolorization requires a high pH and a high concentration of peroxide.
33. Name the 4 ideal objectives for no-lift deposit haircolors.
Introducing a client to a color service, as these products create a change in tone without lightening the natural haircolor
Blending or covering gray
Refreshing faded permanent color on the mid-shaft and ends
Color corrections and restoring natural color
34. Describe what permanent haircolors are. Permanent haircolors can lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than no-lift-deposit7|Page
only colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer. Permanent haircolor is used to match, lighten, and cover grey hair.
35. Explain uncolored dye precursors/aniline derivatives. Permanent haircolors contain uncolored dye precursors, which are very small and can easily penetrate into the hair shaft. These dye precursors also referred to as aniline derivatives, combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, and permanent dye molecules.
36. Permanent haircolors are regarded as the best products for _________________ ____________ ____________. Covering grey hair
37. What are natural haircolors? Natural or vegetable haircolors such as henna are natural colors obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.
38. What is metallic haircolor? Metallic haircolors, also called gradual colors, contain metal salts and change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull, metallic experience.
39. Describe what a developer is. A developer is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural haircolor.
40. What is the pH level in developer? Developers, also called oxidizing agents or catalysts, have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5.
41. What is the most commonly used developer? Although, there are a number of developers on the market, hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used in haircolor.
42. What is volume? Volume measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. The lower the volume, the less lift is achieved; the higher the volume, the greater the lifting action. 8|Page
43. Explain hydrogen peroxide volume and uses. Use 10 volume when less lightening is desired. 20 volume is used with permanent haircolor, as well as for complete gray coverage. For additional lift, 30 volume is used, and to provide maximum lift in one-step color service, 40 volume is commonly used.
44. Describe lighteners. Lighteners lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.
45. What is oxidation? As soon as hydrogen peroxide is mixed into the lightener formula, it begins to release oxygen.
46. What is the Decolorizing Process? The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens.
47. Describe the Decolorization Process. First, the hair is decolorized to the appropriate level. Then the new color is applied to deposit the desired color.
48. What are toners? Toners are traditional semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after the decolorizing process.
49. Explain the guidelines followed for achieving a “white blond” look. Hair cannot be safely lifted past the pale yellow stage with lightener. The extreme diffusion of color necessary to give hair a white appearance causes excessive damage to the hair. The result is that wet hair feels “mushy” and will stretch without returning to its regular length. When dry, the hair is harsh and brittle. Such hair often suffers breakage and will not accept toner properly. However, this does not mean that only those born with blond hair can be white-blonds. The baby-blond look can be achieved by lightening to pale yellow and neutralizing the unwanted undertone (contributing pigment) with a toner.
50. What is the most critical part of the color service? A haircolor consultation.
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51. Explain how to begin the color consultation. Begin the consultation in an area with proper lighting so that you can accurately determine the client’s current hair color. If possible, the walls should be white or neutral.
52. Explain the release statement in color services. A release statement is used by schools and many salons when providing chemical services. Its purpose is to explain to clients that there is a risk involved in any chemical service, and if their hair is questionable condition, the hair may not withstand the requested chemical treatment.
53. Is the release statement a legally binding contract? No. A release statement is not a legally binding contract, and will not clear the cosmetologist of responsibility for what may happen to a client’s hair.
54. Name the 2 methods of mixing permanent colors. Permanent color is applied by either the applicator bottle or bowl-brush method (always follow the manufacturer’s directions).
55. What is a patch test? A patch test, also called a predisposition test, to be given 24 to 48 hours prior to each application of an aniline haircolor.
56. What is a preliminary strand test? This preliminary strand test will tell you how the hair will react to the formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
57. Explain single-process permanent color. Single- process hair coloring lightens and deposits color in a single application.
58. What is a virgin application? A virgin application refers to the first time the hair is colored.
59. Name the three (3) steps for applying color to new growth and faded ends. 1. Apply color for the new growth only, being careful not to overlap on previously colored hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and a line of demarcation, which is a 10 | P a g e
visible line separating colored hair from new growth. 2. Process color according to your analysis and strand test results. 3. To refresh faded ends, formulate a no-lift deposit only haircolor for the ends to match the new growth, or rinse the color through to the ends. Then shampoo and condition. Remember that the same color formula used with different volumes of peroxide will produce different results.
60. What is a double-process application? To achieve pale or cool colors, it is sometimes more efficient to use a double-process application. By first decolorizing the hair with a lightener and then using a separate product to deposit the desired tone, you will have more control over the coloring process.
61. What is prelightening? Prelightening lifts or lightens the natural pigments, before the application of a toner.
62. The application procedure for demipermanent color is similar to that of a __________________ _______________________ color. Traditional semipermanent.
63. What are considered on-the-scalp lighteners? Oil and cream lighteners are considered on-thescalp lighteners, which can be used differently on the scalp.
64. What are considered off-the-scalp lighteners? Powder lighteners are considered to be off-thescalp lighteners, which cannot be used directly on the scalp.
65. Explain why cream and oil lighteners are the most popular type of lighteners. Cream and oil lighteners are the most popular type of lighteners because they are easy to apply. Oil lighteners are the mildest type, appropriate when only one or two levels of lift are desired. Because they are so mild, they are also used professionally to lighten dark facial and body hair.
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Which lighteners are strong enough for high-lift blonding? Cream lighteners are strong enough for high-lift blonding, but gentle enough to be used on the scalp. 66. Name the three (3) features and benefits for using Cream Lighteners. 1. Conditioning agents give some protection to the hair and scalp. 2. Thickeners give more control during application. 3. Because cream lighteners do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouch services. Cream lighteners may be mixed with activators (sometimes called boosters, protinators, or accelerators) in the form of dry crystals.
67. What are powdered-off-the-scalp lighteners? Powdered-off-the-scalp lighteners are strong, fast-acting lighteners in powdered form.
68. Should powder lighteners be used for retouch services? No. Most powder lighteners expand or spread out as processing continues and should not be used for retouch services.
69. Processing time for lightening is affected by five (5) factors. List them. 1. The darker the natural hair color, the more melanin it has. The more melanin it has, the longer it takes to lighten the color. 2. The amount of time needed to lighten the natural hair color is also influenced by the porosity. Porous hair of the same color level will lighten faster than hair that is nonporous, because the lightening agent can enter the cortex more rapidly. 3. Tone influences the length of time necessary to lighten the natural hair color. The greater the percentage of red reflected in the natural color, the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate shades of pale blond. Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the level and the tone of the hair. 4. The strength of the product affects the speed and amount of lightening. Stronger lighteners produce pale shades in the fastest time. 5. Heat leads to faster lightening. But the stages of lightening must be carefully observed to avoid excessive lift that could diffuse so much natural pigment that the toner may not produce the desired color. When this occurs, the toner may “grab�, giving the hair 12 | P a g e
an unwanted ashy, cool tone.
70. When should you perform the preliminary strand test? Perform a preliminary strand test prior to lightening to determine the processing time, the condition of the hair after lightening, and the end results.
71. Explain what new growth is. New growth will become obvious as the hair grows. The new growth is the part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has previously been colored. On a retouch, always lighten the new growth first.
72. What lightener is generally used for a lightener retouch? A cream lightener is generally used for a lightener retouch because it is less irritating to the scalp and its consistency helps prevent overlapping of previously lightened hair. Overlapping can cause severe breakage and lines of demarcation.
73. When are toners used? Toners are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors.
74. What are no-lift deposit-only haircolors often used for? No-lift deposit-only haircolors are often used as toners.
75. When should you proceed with a toner application? Administer a patch test for allergies or other sensitivities 24 to 48 hours before each toner application. Proceed with the application only if the patch test results are negative and the hair is I good condition.
76. What should you use for your protection during a toner application? For your protection, you should wear gloves throughout the application.
77. What is special-effects haircoloring? Special-effects haircoloring refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring. 13 | P a g e
78. What is highlighting? Highlighting involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.
79. Explain reverse highlighting or lowlighting. Reverse highlighting or lowlighting is the technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color. Contrasting dark areas recede, appear smaller, and make detail less visible
80. List the three (3) most frequently used methods for achieving highlights. 1. Cap technique 2. Foil technique 3. Baliage or free-form technique 81. Explain the cap technique. The cap technique involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, then combing them to remove tangles.
82. Explain the foil technique. The foil technique involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or color, and sealing them in foil or plastic wrap.
83. Explain the following techniques: Slicing
Slicing involves taking a narrow, 1/8 inch (0.3 centimeter) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over foil, and applying lightener or color.
Weaving
In weaving, selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and the lightener or color is applied only to these strands.
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82. Explain the Baliage or free-form technique. The Baliage or free form technique involves the painting of a lightener (usually powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean styled hair.
83. What is a highlighting shampoo? Highlighting shampoo colors are prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo. They are used when a slight change in hair shade is desired, or when a client’s hair processes very rapidly. This process highlight’s the hair’s natural color in a single application.
84. What helps with yellow discoloration? Lightener and haircolor removers help remove yellow discoloration. Undesired yellow can often be overpowered by the artificial pigments deposited by violet-based colors of an equal or darker level than the yellow.
85. When formulating for gray hair, what do formulations from Level 7 and darker provide? Formulations from Level 7 and darker will provide better coverage, and can be used as a pastel and blond tones if desired.
What are the tips for achieving gray coverage? Gray hair is caused by the reduction of pigment in the cortical layer. Gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges. For instance, gray hair can turn yellow if the lightener used is not processed long enough. A great many salon coloring services, however, will successfully cover or enhance gray hair if performed correctly. Gray hair accepts the level of the color applied. However, level 8 or lighter colors may not give complete coverage because of the low concentration of dye found in these lighter colors. Formulations from level 7 and darker will provide better coverage, and can be used to create pastel and blond tones if desired. For those clients who are 80 to 100 percent gray, a haircolor within the blond range is generally more flattering than a darker shade. This lighter level of artificial color may be selected to give a warm or cool finished color, depending on the client’s skin tone, eye color, and personal preference. One factor to consider when coloring low percentages of gray or salt-and-pepper hair to a darker level is that color on color will always make a darker color. The addition of dark artificial pigment to the natural pigment results in a color that the eye perceives as darker. For this reason, when attempting to cover the unpigmented hair on a salt-and-pepper head, formulate one to two levels lighter than the natural level to ensure a natural result. For the purposes of a strand test, a manufacturer’s product color chart can be used in conjunction with tables 21-4 and 21-5 to select a color within the proper level. 86. Semipermanent/Demipermanent Color Formulation for Gray Hair
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Percentage Semipermanent/Demipermanent Color of Gray Hair Formulation for Gray Hair 90–100%
Desired level
70–90%
Equal parts desired and one level lighter
50–70%
One level lighter than desired level
30–50%
Equal parts one and two levels lighter
10–30%
Two levels lighter than desired level
Table 21-5 Permanent Color Formulation for Gray Hair Percentage of Gray Hair
Permanent Color Formulation for Gray Hair
90–100%
Desired level
70–90%
Two parts desired level and one part lighter level
50–70%
Equal parts desired and lighter level
30–50%
Two parts lighter level and one part desired level
10–30%
One level lighter
Focus On
Building Your Client Base
To build your haircolor clientele: Be as knowledgeable about haircolor as you can be. Maintain your skills through continuous
education. Be honest when recommending color options to your client. That means including information on maintenance, costs, and other issues. Keep up to date with celebrity hair trends because your clients will be asking for them. Maintain a positive and excited attitude about your work, and convey your confidence and enthusiasm to your client.
Tips for Achieving Gray Coverage Formulate at a level 7 medium-blond and deeper for best gray coverage. Use 20-volume developer. Process color for the full processing time, based on manufacturer’s instructions. Add neutral tones to the formula. If 25 percent gray is present, use 25 percent neutral or natural tones in formula. 16 | P a g e
 
If 50 percent gray is present, use 50 percent neutral or natural tones in formula. If 75 percent gray is present, use 75 percent neutral or natural tones in formula. High-lift blond colors are not designed for gray coverage. To create a very light result, formulate at a level 7 for the base color and add some highlights over the color to create a balanced blond on blond result.
87. What is more desirable for clients who are 80- to 100- percent gray? For those clients, a haircolor within the blond range is generally more flattering than a darker shade.
88. How do you prevent the addition of dark artificial pigment to the natural pigment when it results in a darker color that the eye perceives as darker? When attempting to cover the unpigmented hair in a salt and pepper head, formulate two levels lighter than the natural level to ensure a natural result.
89. Name the four (4) tips for working on gray hair listed in your book. 1. Use 20 volume developer. 2. Process color for a full 45 minutes. 3. Add ½ to 1 ounce of a natural/ warm tone to formula for resistant gray hair. 4. High lift blond is not designed for gray coverage. To create a very light result, formulate at a Level 7 and add some highlights.
89. When is presoftening necessary? Occasionally gray hair is so resistant that even when formulation, application, and time are correct, you will find that the coverage is not satisfactory. In such cases, Presoftening becomes necessary.
90. What is presoftening? Presoftening raises the cuticle layer of gray or resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. 17 | P a g e
91. What takes a toll on the condition of the hair? Blow-drying, wind, harsh shampoos, and chemical services all take their toll on the condition of the hair.
92. Hair is considered to be damaged when at least one or more of seven (7) characteristics. Name all seven (7). 1. Rough texture 2. Overporous condition 3. Brittle and dry to the touch 4. Susceptible to breakage 5. No elasticity 6. Becomes spongy and matted when wet 7. Color fades too quickly or grabs too dark
93. When should damaged hair receive reconditioning treatments? Damaged hair should receive reconditioning treatments prior to, and after the application of, these chemical services.
94. Name the five (5) tips for dealing with damaged hair. 1. Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein, oils, and moisture-0rich ingredients. 2. Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH with an acidic finishing rinse. This will restore the ability of the cuticle to protect the hair. 18 | P a g e
3. Postpone any further chemical service until the hair is reconditioned. 4. Schedule the client for between-service conditioning. 5. Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for the next service.
95. What are fillers? Fillers help equalize porosity. Color fillers equalize porosity and deposit color in one application.
96. What are conditioner fillers? Conditioner fillers are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair, and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly, from strand to strand and scalp to ends. {
97. Explain color fillers. Color fillers equalize porosity and deposit color in one application. Color fillers are used on overly porous, prelightened hair to equalize porosity and provide a uniform contributing pigment that complements the desired finished color. 98. Name the six (6) advantages of color filler. 1. Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaft. 2. Help hair to hold color. 3. Prevent streaking and dull appearance. 4. Prevent off color results. 5. Produce more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint. 6. Produce uniform color when coloring prelightened hair back to its natural color.
99. What must be present to produce a haircolor that looks natural? All three (3) primary colors must be present to produce a haircolor that looks natural.
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100. Where are complimentary colors found on the color wheel? Complimentary colors are directly opposite each other on the color wheel.
101. What is common problem in color treated red hair? Red haircolor is exciting and fun, but fading is a common problem with color-treated hair.
102. Name five (5) tips for color treating red heads. 1. To create warm coppery reds, use a red orange base color. 2. To create hot fiery reds, use red-violet or true red colors. 3. After the hair has been colored with a permanent color, always use a no-lift deposit-only color to refresh the shaft and ends. 4. If gray hair is present, always add ½ to 1 ounce of natural color to the desired red. 5. To brighten haircolor, refresh reds with a soap cap of equal parts shampoo and the remaining color formula before rinsing. 103. Name four (4) tips for color treating brunettes. 1. To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, always use a cool blue base. 2. To avoid unwanted brassy tones, do not lighten more than two levels above the natural color. 3. Add 1ounce of a natural color to cover gray in brunette hair. 4. Natural highlights in brunette hair should be deep or caramel colored. Blond highlights have too much contrast with brunette hair. Blond highlights do not look natural and require frequent service. 104. Name six (6) tips for color treating blonds. 1. Blond haircolor is popular, profitable, and fun. From single-process blond to highlighting, the possibilities are endless. 2. When lightening brown hair to blond. Remember that there may be underlying unwanted 20 | P a g e
warm tones. 3. When covering gray hair with a blond color, use a Level 7 or darker for the best coverage. 4. Double-process blonding is the best way to obtain pale blond results. 5. If high lift blonds that only lift 5 levels are used on Levels 4 and below, the result may be a color that is too warm or brassy. 6. If highlights become too blond or all one color, lowlights or deeper strands can be foiled into the hair to create a more natural color, or you can glaze the hair with a light blond color containing a red-orange base to add the missing warmth to the hair. 105. How does a green cast happen? If the hair has a buildup of minerals from well water or chlorine, you may want to purify the hair with a product designed to remove the mineral build up.
106. What do you do when the overall color is too dark? Determine how much of the color needs to be removed. Use a haircolor remover in cases where the hair is too dark because of build up or formulation. Apply haircolor remover to the areas that need to be lightened. Process for 10 minutes and check development. These removers are designed to remove artificial pigment in the hair. Once you have achieved the desired color, rinse and shampoo.
107.
List the haircoloring safety precautions.
Perform a patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to each application of aniline-derivative haircolor. Apply haircolor only if the patch test is negative.
Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present.
Do not apply haircolor if a metallic or compound haircolor is present.
Do not brush the hair prior to applying color.
Always read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.
Use sanitized applicator bottles, brushes, combs and towels.
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Protect your client’s clothing with proper draping.
Perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or discoloration.
Use an applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing the haircolor.
Do not mix the haircolor until you are ready to use it; discard leftover haircolor.
Wear gloves to protect your hands.
Do not permit the color to come in contact with the client’s eyes.
Do not overlap during haircolor retouch.
Use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip color.
Always wash hands before and after serving a client.
108. How to restore blond to natural color: Sometimes hair is so damaged and overly porous that there may be insufficient structure left within the cortex for the artificial pigment to attach to. Hair that looks gun-metal gray is a real danger sign. Hair that is this porous is very fragile and may be close to the breaking point. Restoring a client’s blond hair back to its natural darker color can be tricky. Even if the client says that she wants to go back to her natural color, she may not like it. She is used to seeing light hair and going too dark could be disastrous. A few tips on how to restore the client’s natural color are listed below: 1. If you have a starting regrowth level that is level 6 dark blond and deeper, soften the new growth with a level 6 violet base permanent color with 20 volume. Apply to the scalp area, process for 20 minutes, and rinse. Towel dry. If the starting regrowth level is level 7 medium blond and lighter, soften the regrowth with a level 8 light blond-violet base permanent color with 20 volume. Apply to the scalp area, process for 20 minutes, and rinse. Towel dry. 2. Next, apply a demipermanent glaze with 1 ounce of a level 8 light neutral blond and 1 ounce (30 milliliters) of a level 9 very light blond red-orange. Apply to all the lightened hair. Do not apply to the scalp area. Process for 20 minutes. Rinse and towel dry. This will turn the hair a very light reddish-gold. Do Not Panic! 22 | P a g e
3. Finally, mix the final deposit-only glaze. If you formulated with level 6 dark blondviolet at the base, use ounces (44 milliliters) level 6 dark neutral blond with ounce (15 milliliters) level 4 light brown gold base. If you formulated with level 8 light violet blond at the base, use ounces (44 milliliters) level 8 light neutral blond with ounce (15 milliliters) level 6 dark golden blond. Apply the chosen formula starting on the pieces that were overlightened from the beginning. Work the color through all over. Process up to 20 minutes, checking it every five minutes. Reevaluate the haircolor at the client’s next visit, and determine what is needed to make the color deeper. Apply a separate color to the scalp area and on the remainder of the hair strand for the best results.
109.
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Know the safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process. Perform a patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to each application of aniline-derivative haircolor. Apply haircolor only if the patch test is negative. Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present on the scalp. Do not apply haircolor if a metallic or compound haircolor is present. Do not brush the hair prior to applying color. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Use cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels. Protect your client’s clothing with proper draping. Perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or discoloration. Use an applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing the haircolor. Do not mix haircolor until you are ready to use it; discard leftover haircolor. Wear gloves to protect your hands. Do not permit the color to come in contact with the client’s eyes. Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch. Use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip color. Always wash hands before and after serving a client.
Focus OnRetailing Your color client needs to use high-quality salon products at home to help prevent their haircolor from fading. Using the right products increases the longevity of the haircolor, preserves the natural integrity (health) of the hair, and makes your client more likely to return to you for more services. Recommending the right professional products increases your client’s satisfaction and your income.
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