Big 4 - #2 Haircutting and Hairstyling State Board Review Chapters 9, 14, & 15
1. What is the word for the study of hair, its diseases and care? Trichology
2. Explain integument. The hair, skin, and nails are known collectively as the integument, which is the largest and fastest growing organ of the human body.
3. Describe the structure of the hair. A mature strand of hair is divided into two parts: hair root and hair shaft. The hair root is the part of the hair located below the surface of the scalp. The hair shaf is the portion of the hair that projects above the skin.
4. Name and describe the 5 main structures of the hair root. 1|Page
1. Follicle
The follicle is the tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root. Hair follicles are distributed all over the body, with the exception of the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. The follicle extends downward from the epidermis (the outer layer of skin) into the dermis the inner layer of the skin), where it surrounds the dermal papilla. It is not uncommon for more than one hair to grow from a single follicle.
2. Hair Bulb
The hair bulb is the lowest area or part of a hair strand. It is the thickened, club shaped structure that forms the lower part of the hair root. The lower part of the hair bulb fits over and covers the dermal papilla.
3. Dermal Papilla
The dermal papilla is a small, cone-shaped area located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb. The dermal papilla contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth.
4. Arrector Pili
The arrector pili are tiny, involuntary muscle in the base of the hair follicle. Strong emotions or cold causes it to contract, which makes the hair stand up straight, resulting in “goose bumps�.
5. Sebaceous Glands
Sebaceous glands are the oil glands of the skin, connected to the hair follicles. The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance called sebum, which lubricates the hair and skin.
5. List and describe the 3 main layers of the hair shaft. 1. Cuticle
The cuticle is the outermost layer of hair. It consists of an overlapping layer of 2|Page
transparent, scale-like cells that look like shingles on a roof. The cuticle layer provides a barrier that protects the inner structure of hair as it lies tightly against the cortex. It is responsible for creating the shine and the smooth, silky feel of healthy hair. A healthy, compact cuticle layer is the hair’s primary defense against damage. 2. Cortex
The cortex is the middle layer of the hair. It is a fibrous protein core formed by the elongated cells containing melanin pigment. About 90 percent of the total weight of hair comes from the cortex. The elasticity of the hair and its natural color are the result of unique protein structures located within the cortex. The changes involved in oxidation Haircoloring, wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing all take place within the cortex.
3. Medulla
The medulla is the innermost layer and is composed of round cells. It is quite common for very fine hair and naturally blond hair to entirely lack a medulla. Generally, only thick, coarse hair contains a medulla. All male beard hair contains a medulla. The medulla is not involved in salon services.
6. Since healthy cuticle layers protect the hair from penetration to prevent damage, how do products get past the cuticle? Oxidation haircolors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline pH in order to penetrate the cuticle layer, because a high pH swells the cuticle causing it to lift and expose the cortex.
7. Explain keratinization. Hair is composed of protein that grows from cells originating within the hair follicle. This is where the shaft begins. As soon as these living cells form, they begin their journey upward through the hair follicle. They mature in a process called keratinization. As these newly formed cells mature, they fill up with a fibrous protein called keratin, then move upward, lose the nucleus, and die. By the time the hair shaft emerges from the scalp, the cells of the hair are completely keratinized and are no longer living.
8. What is the hair shaft that emerges from the scalp and is a non-living fiber composed of? Keratinized protein.
9. Hair is approximately __________________ percent protein. 90.
10. What are the 5 main elements of human hair? 3|Page
1.
Carbon
3. Oxygen
2. Nitrogen 4. Sulfur
5. Hydrogen
11. Explain COHNS elements. The five elements are the major elements found in skin, hair, and nails. Often referred to as the COHNS elements.
12. What are proteins made up of? Proteins are made up of long chains of amino acids that are linked together end to end like pop beads.
13. What is a peptide? The chemical bond that links amino acids is called a peptide bond or end bond.
14. What is a polypeptide chain? This occurs when peptide bonds hold together in very long chains of amino acids. These polypeptide chains are cross linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds.
15. What are side bonds? The side bonds hold the keratin fibers in place and account for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet sets, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical relaxing.
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16. What are the three types of side bonds? Describe each one. 1. Hydrogen Bond
A hydrogen bond is a weak physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat.
2. Salt Bond
A salt bond is also a weak, temporary side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions, and account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength.
3. Disulfide bond
A disulfide bond is a chemical side bond that is very different from the physical bonding of a hydrogen or salt bond. Permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers change the shape of hair by chemically changing the hair’s disulfide bonds.
17. Describe Hair Pigment. All natural hair color is the result of the pigment located within the cortex. Melanin is the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that give natural color to the hair.
18. Name the two different types of melanin. 1. Eumelanin
Provides brown and black color to hair.
2. Pheomelanin
Provides colors ranging from red and ginger to yellow/blond tones.
19. What is a wave pattern? The wave pattern of the hair refers to the shape of the hair strand, and is described as straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly.
20. Explain Hair Analysis. All successful salon services must begin with a thorough analysis of the client’s hair type and its present condition in order to determine the results that can reasonably be expected from the service.
21. Describe hair texture. Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand. Hair texture can be classified as coarse, medium, or fine. 5|Page
22. What is the difference between coarse hair and fine hair? Coarse hair texture has the largest diameter. It is stronger than fine hair, for the same reason that a thick rope is stronger than a thin rope. It usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair, and is often more resistant to that processing.
23. What is the most common hair texture? Medium.
24. What is hair density? Hair density measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch (2.5 cm) hair scalp.
25. Explain hair porosity. Hair porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration. Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture. Hair with low porosity is considered resistant. Chemical services performed on hair with a low porosity require a more alkaline solution than those on hair with high porosity. Alkaline solutions raise the cuticle and permit uniform saturation and processing on resistant hair. Hair with average porosity is considered to be normal hair. Chemical services performed on this type of hair will usually process as expected, according to the texture. Hair with high porosity is considered overly porous hair and is ofen the result of previous overprocessing. Overly porous hair is damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require less alkaline solutions with lower pH, which help prevent additional over processing and damage.
26. Explain Hair Elasticity. Hair elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in place. We t hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50% of its original length and return to that same length without breaking. Dry hair stretches about 20% of its length. Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. It may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving. Hair with low elasticity is the result of weak side bonds that usually result from previous overprocessing. Chemical services 6|Page
performed on hair with low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower pH in order to minimize further damage and prevent additional overprocessing.
27. Explain Growth Patterns. It is important when shaping and styling hair to consider the hair’s growth patterns. Hair follicles do not usually grow perpendicular to the scalp. Most hair follicles grow at an angle other than 90 degrees, and most hair grows in a direction other than straight out from the head. These growth patterns result in hair streams, whorls, and cowlicks.
28. Name and explain the 3 growth patterns. 1. Hair Stream
A hair stream is hair flowing in the same direction, resulting from follicles sloping in the same direction. Two streams flowing in opposite directions form a natural part in the hair.
2. Whorl
A whorl is hair that forms in a circular pattern, as on the crown. A whorl normally forms in the crown with all the hair from that point growing down.
3. Cowlick
A cowlick is a tuf of hair that stands straight up. Cowlicks are usually more noticeable at the front hairline, but they may be located anywhere.
29. What are the 2 main types of hair found on the body? Vellus and terminal.
30. Describe vellus and terminal hair. 1. Vellus Hair
Vellus or lanugo hair is short, fine, and downy. Vellus hair is not pigmented and almost never has a medulla. It is commonly found on infants and can be present on children until puberty. On adults, vellus 7|Page
hair is usually found in places that are normally considered hairless (forehead, eyelids, and bald scalp), as well as nearly all other areas of the body except the palms of the hands and feet. Women normally retain 55 percent more vellus hair than men. Vellus hair helps in the efficient evaporation of perspiration. 2. Terminal Hair
Terminal hair is the long hair found on the scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and females. Terminal hair is coarser than vellus hair and, with the exception of gray hair, it is pigmented. It usually has a medulla and is easily distinguished from vellus hair by its dark color and coarse texture.
31. Explain cycles of hair. Hair growth occurs in cycles. Each complete cycle has three phases that are repeated over and over again throughout life.
32. Name the three cycles of hair growth. 1. Anagen
During the anagen or growth phase, new hair is produced. New cells are actively manufactured in the hair follicle. During this phase, hair cells are produced faster than any other normal cell in the body. The average growth of healthy scalp hair is about one half inch (1.25 centimeters) per month. The rate of growth varies on different parts of the body, between sexes, and with age. Scalp hair grows faster on women than on men. Scalp hair grows rapidly between the ages of 15 and 30, but slows down sharply at the age of 50. About 90 percent of the scalp hair is growing in the anagen phase at any one time. The anagen phase generally lasts three to five years, but in some cases, it can last as long as ten years. The longer the anagen cycle is, the longer the hair is able to grow. This is why some people can only grow their hair down to their shoulders, while others can grow it down to the floor!
2. Catagen
The Catagen phase is the brief transition period between the growth and resting phases of a hair follicle. It signals the end of the growth phase. During the Catagen phase, the follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla. The hair bulb disappears and the shrunken root end forms a rounded club. Less than 1 percent of scalp hair is in the Catagen phase at any one time. The Catagen phase is very 8|Page
short and lasts from 1 to 2 weeks. 3. Telogen
The Telogen phase or resting phase is the final phase in the hair cycle and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed. The hair is either shed during the Telogen phase or remains in place until the next anagen phase, when the new hair growing in pushes it out. About 10 percent of scalp hair is in the Telogen phase at any one time. The Telogen phase lasts for approximately 3 to 6 months. As soon as the Telogen phase and begins the entire again. On average, the entire growth cycle repeats itself once every 4 to 5 years.
33. What is the average rate of hair loss per day? 35 to 40 hairs per day.
34. Define Alopecia. Abnormal hair loss is called alopecia.
35. Name the three most common types for alopecia and describe each one. 1. Androgenic Alopecia
Androgenic alopecia or androgenetic alopecia is the result of genetics, age, and hormonal changes that cause miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus hair. Androgenic alopecia can begin as early as the teens and is frequently seen by the age of 40. By age 35, almost 40 percent of both men and women show some degree of hair loss. In men, androgenic alopecia is known as male pattern baldness and usually progresses to the familiar horseshoe shaped fringe of hair. In women it shows up as generalized thinning over the entire crown area. Androgenic alopecia affects about 40 million men and 20 million women in the United States.
2. Alopecia Areata
Alopecia areata is characterized by the sudden falling oput of hair in round patches or baldness in spots, and may occur on the scalp and elsewhere on the body. It is a highly unpredictable skin disease that affects almost 5 million people in the United States alone. Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disorder that causes the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a person’s 9|Page
own immune system, with white blood cells stopping the hair growth (anagen) phase. Alopecia areata usually begins with one or more small, round, smooth bald patches on the scalp and can progress to total scalp hair loss (alopecia totalis), or complete body hair loss (alopecia universalis). 3. Postpartum Alopecia
Postpartum alopecia is temporary hair loss experienced at the conclusion of a pregnancy. For some women, pregnancy seems to interrupt the normal growth cycle of hair, with very little normal hair loss during pregnancy, but sudden and excessive shedding from 3-9 months afer delivery. Although this is usually very traumatic to the new mother, the growth cycle generally returns to normal within 1 year after the baby is delivered.
36. What 2 products have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA for sale in the United States? Of all treatments that are said to counter hair loss, there are only teo products – minoxidil and finasteride – that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA for sale in The United States.
37. Describe the following disorders of the hair: 1. Canities
2. Ringed Hair
3. Hypertrichosis
Canities is the technical term for gray hair. Canities results from the loss of the hair’s natural melanin pigment. Other than the absence of pigment, gray hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair. There are two types of canities called congenital and acquired.
Congenital canities exists at or before birth.
Acquired canities develops with age and is the result of genetics.
Ringed hair is a variety of canities, characterized by alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair throughout the length of the hair strand. Hypertrichosis or hirsuties is a condition of abnormal growth of hair. It is characterized by the growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that abnormally only grow vellus hair. A mustache or light beard on women is examples of Hypertrichosis. Treatments include electrolysis, photoepilation, laser hair 10 | P a g e
removal, shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezers, depilatories, epilators, threading, and sugaring. 4. Trichoptilosis
Trichoptilosis is the technical term for split ends. Treatments include hair conditioning to soften and lubricate dry ends. The split ends may also be removed by cutting.
5. Trichorrhexis Nodosa
Trichorrhexis Nodosa or knotted hair is characterized by brittleness and the formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaf. The hair breaks easily, and the broken fibers spread out like a brush along the hair shaft. Treatments include softening the hair with conditioners and moisturizers. Monilethrix is the technical term for beaded hair. The hair breaks easily between the beads or nodes. Treatments include hair and scalp conditioning.
6. Monilethrix
7. Fragilitas Crinium
Fragilitas crinium Is the technical term for brittle hair. The hairs may split at any part of their length. Treatments include hair and scalp conditioning.
38. Describe the following disorders of the scalp:
1. Dandruff
Pityriasis – is the medical term for dandruff, which is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of skin cells. Instead of the normal shedding of tiny individual skin cells, one at a time, dandruff results from the accumulation of large visible clumps of cells.
Malassezia – Although the cause of dandruff has been debated over 150 years, current research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called Malassezia. Malassezia is a naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin but only develops are symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control.
Pityriasis capitis simplex –The technical term for classic dandruff that is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and an itchy scalp. The scales may attach to the scalp in masses, scatter loosely in the hair, or fall to the shoulders. Regular use of antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and 11 | P a g e
topical lotions are the best treatment.
2. Fungal Infections (Tinea)
Pityriasis steatoides –A more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum that sticks to the scalp in crusts. When accompanied by redness and inflammation, the medical term is “seborrheic dermatitis”. Occasionally, seborrheic dermatitis can also be found in the eyebrows or beard. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician.
Tinea –is the medical term for ringworm. It is characterized by itching, scales, and, sometimes, painful circular lesions. Several such patches may be present at one time. Tinea is caused by a fungal organism and is not a parasite, as the oldfashioned term “ringworm” seems to suggest. All forms are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another. Infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease. Bathtubs, swimming pools, and iunsanitary personal artivcles are also sources of transmission. Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of the disease. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment.
3. Parasitic Infections
Tinea Capitis –is another type of fungal infection characterized by red papules, or spots, at the opening of the hair follicles. The patches spread and the hair becomes brittle. Hair ofen breaks off, leaving only a stump, or may be shed from the enlarged open follicle.
Tinea Favosa –is characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on the scalp called scutula, which have a distinctive odor. Scars from tinea favosa are bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny.
Scabies – is a highly contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a “mite” that burrows itself under the skin. Vesicles (blisters) and pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this parasite. Excessive itching results in scratching the infected areas and makes the condition worse. Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures are very important to 12 | P a g e
prevent the spread of this disease. A client with this condition must be referred to a physician for treatment.
Pediculosis Capititis – is the infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice. As these parasites feed on the scalp, itching occurs and the scratching that usually results can cause an infection. Head lice are transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles. You can distinguish them from dandruff flakes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass. Properly practicing state board – approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of this disease. Several nonprescription medications are available. A client with this condition should be referred to a physician or pharmacist.
4. Staphylococci Infections
Staphylococci are bacteria that infect the skin or scalp. The two most common types of staphylococci infections are as follows:
Furuncle –or boil is an acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain. It is limited to a specific area and produces a pustule perforated by a hair.
Carbuncle – is an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci. It is similar to a furuncle but is larger.
39. Explain the head form. Good haircuts begin with an understanding of the shape of the head, referred to as the head form or head shape. Hair responds differently on various areas of the head, depending on the length and the cutting technique used. Being aware of where the head form curves, turns, and changes will help you achieve the look you and your client are seeking.
40. What are reference points? Reference points on the head mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ears, jaw line, occipital bone, or apex. These points are used to establish design lines.
41. Define the following 4 standard reference points. 13 | P a g e
1. Parietal Ridge
The widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. This area is easily found by placing a comb flat on the side of the head: the parietal ridge is found where the head starts to curve away from the comb. Also referred to as the crest area.
2. Occipital Bone
The bone that protrudes at the base of the skull is the occipital bone. To find the occipital bone, simply feel the back of the skull, or place a comb flat against the nape and find where the comb leaves the head.
3. Apex
Highest point on the top of the head. This area is easily located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head. The comb will rest on that highest point.
4. Four Corners
May be located in two different ways. First, place two combs flat against the side and back, locating the back corner at the point where two combs meet. Second, make two diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, pointing directly to the front and back corners. The location of the four corners, for example, signals a change in the shape of the head from flat to round and vice versa. The two front corners represent the widest points in the bang area.
42. Name and explain the 7 different parts of the head. 1. Top
By locating the parietal ridge, you can find the hair that grows on the top of the head. The hair “lies” on the head shape. Hair that grows below the parietal, or crest, “hangs” because of gravity. You can locate the top by parting hair at the parietal ridge, and continuing all the way around the head.
2. Front
By making a parting, drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can separate the hair that naturally falls in front of the ear is considered the front.
3. Sides
The sides are easy to locate. They include all hair from the back of the ear forward, and below the parietal ridge.
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4. Crown
The crown is the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. On many people, the crown is often flat and the site of cowlicks or whorls. Because this, it is extremely important to pay special to this area when haircutting.
5. Nape
The nape is the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone. The nape can be located by taking a horizontal parting, or making a horizontal line across the back of the head at the occipital bone.
6. Back
By making a parting or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can locate the back of the head, which consists of all the haoir that falls naturally behind the ear. When you have identified the front, you have also identified the back.
7. Bang (fringe) Area
The bang (fringe) area is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the four corners. This area can be located by placing a comb on top of the head so that the middle of the comb is balanced on the apex. The spot where the comb leaves the head in front of the apex is where the bang begins. Note how the bang area, when combed into a natural falling position, falls no farther than the outer corners of the eyes.
43. What is every haircut made up of? Lines and Angles.
44. Explain the following. ďƒ˜ Line
The line is a continuous mark used as a guide.
ďƒ˜ Angle
An angle is the space between two lines or surfaces that intersect a given point.
45. What are the 2 basic lines used in haircutting? Straight and curved.
46. Name and explain the 3 types of straight lines in haircutting. 1. Horizontal Lines
Horizontal lines are parallel to the horizon or the floor. Horizontal lines direct the eye from one side to the other. Horizontal lines build weight and are used to create one-length and low-elevation haircuts and weight. 15 | P a g e
2. Vertical Lines
Vertical lines are usually described in terms of up and down and are perpendicular to the floor; they are the opposite of horizontal. Vertical lines remove weight to create graduated or layered haircuts, and are used with higher elevations.
3. Diagonal Lines
Diagonal lines are between horizontal and vertical. They have a slanting or sloping direction. Diagonal lines are used to create fullness in a haircut and to blend long layers into short layers.
47. What is beveling? Beveling and stacking are techniques using diagonal lines by cutting the ends of the hair with a slight increase or decrease in length.
48. What is the best way to maintain control while cutting? For control during haircutting, the hair is parted into uniform working areas, called sections.
49. What are subsections? Each section may be divided into smaller partings called subsections. 50. What is a part or parting? A part or parting is the line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of hair from another, creating subsections.
51. Explain elevation. Elevation is the angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting. It is sometimes referred to as “projection” or simply “lifting” the hair.
52. What does elevation create? Elevation creates graduation and layers, and is usually described in degrees. In a blunt or one-length haircut, there is no elevation (0 degrees). Elevation occurs when you lift any section of hair above 0 degrees.
53. Further explain the elevation and graduation work together. The more you elevate the hair, the more graduation you create. When the hair is elevated below 90 degrees, you are building weight. When you elevate the hair at 90 degrees or higher, you are removing weight, or layering the hair. You will usually need to use less elevation on curly hair than on straighter textures, or leave the hair a bit longer because of shrinkage when it dries.
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54. What is the cutting line? The cutting line is the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that is cut creating the end shape. It is also known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, and finger position.
55. Explain a guideline. A guideline (sometimes called a guide) is a section of hair that determines the length that the hair will be cut, located at either the perimeter (outer line) or the interior (inner or internal part) of the cut. It is usually the first section cut when creating a shape.
56. Name and describe the 2 basic guidelines. 1. Stationary Guideline
A stationary guideline does not move. All other sections are combed to the stationary guideline and cut at the same angle and length. Stationary guidelines are used in blunt (singlelength) haircuts, or if using over-direction to create a length or weight increase in a haircut.
2. Traveling Guideline
A traveling guideline, or moveable guideline, moves as the haircut progresses. Traveling guidelines are used when creating layered or graduated haircuts. It travels with you as you work through the haircut. When you use a traveling guide, you take a small slice of the previous subsection and move it to the next position, or subsection, where it becomes your new guideline.
57. Explain over-direction. Over-direction is best understood by comparing it to elevation. Whereas elevation is simply the degree that you lift a section away from the head, over-direction occurs when you comb the hair away from its natural falling position , rather than from staright out from the head, toward a guideline. Over-direction is used mostly in graduated and layered haircuts, and where you want to create a length increase in the design.
58. What is a client consultation? A great haircut always begins with a great consultation. A consultation is a conversation between you and your client where you find out what the client is looking for, offer suggestions and professional advice, and come to a joint decision about the most suitable haircut. If the client has a particular look in mind, you can discuss whether that look would be appropriate.
59. What does hair do when it dries? It shrinks. The hair will shrink Ÿ inch (0.6 centimeters) to ½ inch after its dry. If the hair is curly, it will shrink ½ to 2 inches (5 centimeters or more.
60. Name the 5 characteristics that determine the behavior of the hair. Texture Porosity
Density Elasticity 17 | P a g e
Growth Patterns
61. Define the following: 1. Hairline
The hairline is the hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck.
2. Growth Pattern
The growth pattern is the direction in which the hair grows from the scalp, also referred to as natural fall or natural falling position. Hair density is the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of scalp. It is usually described as thin, medium, or thick. Hair texture is based on the thickness or diameter of each hair strand, usually classified as coarse, medium, and fine.
3. Hair Density
4. Hair Texture
5. Wave Pattern
The wave pattern, or the amount of movement in the hair strand, varies from client to client, as well as within the same head of hair.
62. Name and describe the 10 haircutting tools that are needed for haircutting. 1. Haircutting Shears
Mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair. May also be used to “slide cut”, “point cut”, and other texturizing techniques. The words shears and scissors are often used interchangeable.
2. Texturizing Shears
Mainly used to remove bulk from the hair. Sometimes referred to as thinning shears, tapering shears, or notching shears. Many types of thinning shears are used today, with varying amounts of teeth in the blades. A general rule of thumb is that the more teeth there are the less hair is removed. Notching shears are usually designed to remove more hair, with larger teeth set farther apart.
3. Straight Razors or Feather Blades
Mainly used when a sofer effect is desired on the ends of the hair. Razors can be used to create an entire haircut, to thin hair out, or to texturize in certain areas. They come in different shapes and sizes, with or without guards.
4. Clippers
Mainly used when creating short haircuts, short tapers, fades, and flat tops. Clippers may be used without a guard to “shave” hair right to the scalp, with cutting guards at various lengths, or with the “clipper-over-comb” technique.
5. Trimmers
A smaller version of clippers, mainly used to remove excess or 18 | P a g e
unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears, and create crisp outlines. Trimmers are mostly used on men’s haircuts and very short haircuts for women. 6. Sectioning Clips
These come in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes and can be made up of plastic or metal. In general, two types are used: jaw or butterfly clips and duckbill clips. Both come in large and small sizes.
7. Wide-Toothed Comb
Mainly used to detangle hair. Rarely to be used when performing a haircut.
8. Tail Comb
Mainly used to section and subsection the hair.
9. Barber Comb
Mainly used for close tapers on the nape and sides when the scissorover-comb technique. The narrow end of the comb allows the shears to get very close to the head.
10. Styling or Cutting Comb
Also referred to as an all-purpose comb, it is used for most haircutting procedures. It can be 6 to 8 inches in length and has fine teeth at one end and wider teeth at the other.
63. What are the 2 important reasons for properly holding your tools? 1. Gives you the most control, and the best results when cutting hair. 2. Can help you avoid muscle strain in your hands, arms, neck, and back.
64. List 5 maintenance habits to use in keeping shears in excellent shape: 1. Daily cleaning and lubrication
Use a soft cloth or towel saturated with scissor oil, thoroughly wipe the inside of the blade of your shear After every client.
2. Daily tension adjustment and balancing
Adjusting blade tension is important task to make sure your shears get the best results
3. Weekly cleaning and lubricating
Loosen adjustment knob enough to push out hair in pivot of shears. After they are clean of hair then add a few drops of oil to blade
4. Disinfecting shears
You must disinfect shears between each client first wash thoroughly cleaning the shears with soap and water and then completely immersing in EPA for amount of time indicated on the label
5. Sharpening Shears
You should only sharpen your shears as needed 19 | P a g e
65. Name the 3 ways of holding your shears.
1. Open your right hand (left hand if you are left-handed), and place the ring finger in the finger grip of the still blade, and the little finger in the finger tang (brace). 2. Place the thumb in the finger grip (thumb grip) of the moving blade. 3. Practice opening and closing the shears. Concentrate on moving only your thumb. A great way to get the feel of this is to lay the still blade against the palm or forefinger of your other hand, which holds it still while you move the other blade with your thumb.
66. Describe how to hold the shears and the comb. In general, your cutting hand (dominant hand) does most of the work. The holding hand helps you maintain control while cutting. Palming the Shears: Remove your thumb from the thumb grip, leaving your ring and little fingers in the grip and finger rest. Curl your fingers in to the “palm” of the shears, which keeps them closed while you comb or part the hair. This allows you to hold the comb and the shears at the same time. While palming the shears, hold the comb between thumb, index, and middle fingers. Transferring the Comb: After you have combed a subsection into position, you will need to free up your cutting hand. Once your fingers are in place at the correct cutting position, transfer the comb by placing it between the thumb and index finger of your holding hand (the hand holding the subsection). You are now ready to cut the subsection.
67. List the things to look for when purchasing shears:
1. Know how the shear was manufactured
Remember that forged shears are of higher quality than cast shears. Even though forged shears may cost a little more, they are more structurally sound and generally last longer.
2. Ask about the steel quality
Be sure that you know the quality of the steel that the shear is made from and the Rockwell hardness. You will 20 | P a g e
want at least a 440-A steel or higher. As you go up the scale from 440-Ato 440-C the steel gets harder, which means that the edges will last longer. 3. Decide on the right blade edge
4. Decide on the best handle design for you.
A full convex edge will give you the smoothest cut and is the sharpest edge possible (figure 16-49). See table 16-2 for the differences in blade edges. Shears will have one of three types of handle grips and you will need to decide which one is best for you. Shears with an opposing grip force the thumb underneath the ring finger and can create stress and pressure on the nerves and tendons of the hand. An offset grip moves the thumb forward, so it is resting below the ring and middle finger. A full offset or crane grip is the most anatomically correct handle design because it positions the thumb grip under the index finger, which is how your hand is when relaxed. This position releases the pressure and stress put on the nerves and tendons of the hand and thumb.
5. Be sure the shears fit properly
Since you will be working with your shears almost constantly, consider purchasing a shear that comes with a finger-fitting system so that the shear can be custom fitted to the exact size of your ring and thumb diameter. A proper fit will ensure maximum performance, comfort, and control.
6. Hold the shears in your hands
Since purchasing a shear is a very personal thing, you need to feel shears in your hand before you buy them. When you are ready to purchase your shears, select a vendor that has plenty of shear samples for you to try and a representative who will allow you all the time you need to make the right choice. Make sure the shear manufacturer offers a 30-day trial period, so that if you are not satisfied with the performance of the shears, you can exchange or return them for a full refund.
7. Swivel thumb shears
Decide if you would like to use a swivel thumb shear. A popular option, the swivel shear provides great comfort and control. The swivel shear allows you to lower your shoulder and elbowand straighten the wrist while cutting, for a more relaxed working posture (figure 1653).
8. Ask about the service agreement
Regardless of the type of shears you decide to 21 | P a g e
purchase, be sure that the company you buy your shears from can service them in a timely and convenient manner. Be sure that they have a person who is certified to sharpen their shears in your area. Otherwise, you may have to send your shears away to be sharpened, leaving you without them for a period of time. 9. Ask about the warranty
Since every company offers a different warranty for their shears, make sure you know what the warranty period is and exactly what the warranty covers before you buy the shears. Should you have an issue with your shears, make sure you are satisfied with that company’s warranty policy before you decide to make a purchase.
10. Analyze the cost of the shears
A pair of shears that is made from high-quality steel, is forged instead of cast, and has the kind of warranty you will need as a new cosmetologist should cost between $250 and $350. If you are buying a cast shear, you should not pay more than $200. If the price of a cast shear is higher than $200, keep looking. Better-quality forged shears are available on the market for only slightly more. A good rule of thumb is to have two cutting shears and one thinning or blending shear available at all times. Your second shear is necessary so if anything happens to your main cutting shear, you can continue to service your clients while the damaged shear is being repaired.
11. Determine how many pairs of shears you need
68. What 4 components do you need to know to fit shears correctly?
1. Fitting the ring finger
Needs to rest between the first and second knuckle. far enough back on the ring finger that your pinky is resting is resting comfortably on the finger tang
2. Fitting the thumb
When your shear is properly fitted, the thumb hole 22 | P a g e
will rest at or slightly over the cuticle area of your thumb 3. Relaxing your grip
A relaxed grip allows you to cut without any pressure, so the blades are not being forced together
4. Correct finger position and alignment
Correct nerve and tendon alignment while cutting hair is crucial to having a healthy career
69. Explain how to handle the comb. Both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb the section before cutting. The finer teeth provide more tension, and are useful when cutting around the ears, when dealing with difficult hairlines, and when cutting curly hair. Plan on spending some more time practicing how to turn the comb in your hand while palming the shears.
70. What is tension? Tension in haircutting is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection. Tension ranges from minimum to maximum. You control tension with your fingers when you hold the subsection of hair between them. Consistent tension is important for constant, even results in a haircut. Use maximum tension on straight hair when you want precise lines. Minimum tension should be used around the ears and on hairlines with strong growth patterns.
71. List and define the 7 sanitation and disinfection guidelines. 6. Wash Hands
Wash your hands with soap and warm water before and after each client.
7. Sweep Hair
Before blow-drying your client, sweep up cut hair and dispose of it properly.
8. Drape Client
Drape the client properly for the shampoo and the haircutting procedures.
9. Sanitize Implements and Tools
Always sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut by washing thoroughly and placing in a disinfectant solution or by another method approved by your state board.
10. Replace Blade
Replace the blade in your razor before each new client. 23 | P a g e
Discard used blades in a puncture proof container. 11. Maintain Shears
Keep your shears in good working order by lubricating with a few drops of oil and wiping with a chamois (or dry cloth).
12. Sanitize
Sanitize your work station after each client.
72. What is a blunt cut? In a blunt haircut, also known as a one-length haircut, all the hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line. The weight line is the visual “line” in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together. The blunt cut is also referred to as a zero elevation cut or no-elevation cut, because it has no elevation or overdirection. It is cut with a stationary guide. The cutting line can be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded. Blunt haircuts are excellent for finer and thinner hair types, because all the hair is cut to one-length, therefore, making it appear thicker.
73. What is a graduated haircut? A graduated shape or wedge, having an effect that results from cutting the hair with tension, low-to-medium elevation, or over-direction. The most common elevation is 45 degrees. In a graduated haircut, there is a visual buildup of weight in a given area. The ends of the hair appear to be “stacked”. There are many variations and effects you can create with graduation simply by adjusting the degree of elevation, the amount of overdirection, or your cutting line.
74. What is a layered haircut? A layered haircut is a graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or over-direction. The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees and above. Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated haircuts. In a graduated haircut, the ends of the hair appear closer together. In a layered haircut, the ends appear farther apart. Layers create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight. A layered haircut can be created with a traveling guide, a stationary guide, or both.
75. What is a layered haircut? Another basic haircut is the long-layered haircut. The hair is cut at a 180 degree angle. This technique gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts. The resulting shape will have shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter.
76. What is cross-checking? Cross-checking is parting the haircut in the opposite way that you cut it to check for precision of line and shape.
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77. What is slide cutting? Slide cutting is a method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length. It is useful for removing length, blending shorter lengths to longer lengths, and texturizing. Slide cutting is a perfect way to layer very long hair and keep weight at the perimeter. Rather than opening and closing the shears, you keep them partially open as you “slide” along the edge of the section. This technique should only be performed on wet hair with very sharp shears.
78. What is the scissor-over-comb technique? Scissor-over-comb (also called shear-over-comb) is a barbering technique that has crossed over into cosmetology. In this technique, you hold the hair in place with the comb while you use the tips of the shears to remove length. Scissor-over-comb is used to create very short tapers and allows you to cut from an extremely short length to longer lengths. In most cases, you start at the hairline and work your way up to the longer lengths.
79. What is texturizing? Texturizing is a technique often used in today’s haircuts. Texturizing is the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length.
80. What tools can be used in texturizing your client’s hair? Texturizing can be done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or a razor.
81. Name and explain the 6 ways you texturize with shears. 1. Point Cutting
Point cutting is a technique performed on the ends of the hair using the tips, or points, of the shears. This can be done on wet or dry hair. It is very easy to do on dry hair because the hair stands up and away from your fingers. Hold the hair 1 to 2 inches (2 to 5 centimeters) from the ends. Turn your wrist so that the tips of the scissors are pointing into the ends. Open and close the scissors by moving your thumb as you work across the section. As you close the scissors, move them away from your fingers to avoid cutting yourself. Move them back in toward your fingers as you open them. Basically, you are cutting “points” in the hair. A more vertical angle of the shears removes less hair. The more diagonal the angle of the shears, the more hair is taken 25 | P a g e
away and the chunkier the effect. 2. Notching
Notching is another version of point cutting. Notching is more aggressive and creates a chunkier effect. Notching is done toward the ends. Hold the section 3 inches (7.5 centimeters) from the ends. Place the tips of your shears about 2 inches (5 centimeters) from the end. Close your shears as you quickly move them out toward the ends. If you are working with very thick hair, you can repeat the motion every 1/8 inch (0.3 centimeters). On medium to fine hair, place your “notches” farther apart. This technique can be done on wet or dry hair.
3. Free-hand Notching
Free-hand notching also uses the tip of the shears. Do not slide the shears; simply snip out pieces of hair at random intervals. This technique is generally used on the interior of the section, rather than at the ends. It works well on curly hair, where you do not want to add too many layers, but rather where you want to release the curl and remove some density.
4. Slithering
Slithering or effilating is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. In this technique, the hair strand is cut by a sliding movement of the shears, with the blades kept partially opened. Slithering reduces volume and creates movement.
5. Slicing
Slicing is a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. When slicing, never completely close the scissors. Use only the portion of the blades near the pivot. This prevents removing large pieces of hair. This technique can be performed within a subsection or on the surface of the hair with haircutting and texturizing shears. To slice an elevated subsection, work with either wet or dry hair. When slicing on the surface of the haircut, it is best to work on dry hair, because you can see exactly how much hair you are taking away.
6. Carving
Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair. It works best on short hair (1 ½ to 3 inches [3.75 to 7.5 centimeters} in length). This technique is done by placing the still blade in the hair, gently opening and partially closing the scissors as you move, thus “carving” out areas. The more horizontal your scissors, the more hair you remove; the more vertical, the less hair you remove.
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82. Explain how to perform the clipper-over-comb technique. The clipper-over-comb technique allows you to cut the hair very close to the scalp and create a flat-top or square shape. The way you use the comb is the same as when you are working with scissor-over-comb. The main difference is that the clippers move across the comb, which requires that you keep the comb in position as you cut. The angle at which you hold the comb determines the amount of hair that is cut.
83. Explain how to trim facial hair. Clippers and trimmers can be used to trim beards and mustaches as well. The technique is very similar to scissor-over-comb and clipper-over-comb. When removing length, use the comb to control the hair and always cut against the comb. You can also use the length guard attachments to trim a beard to the desired length. If you choose to use haircutting shears to trim facial hair, you may want to keep a less expensive pair for this purpose because facial hair is very coarse and may dull your haircutting shears.
84. What is a Client Consultation? The client consultation is always the first step in the hairstyling process. Have your client look through magazines to find styles that she likes or better yet, show her your portfolio of hairstyles. A picture is worth a thousand words. When deciding the best hairstyle, take in consideration all that you have learned in Chapter 12 regarding face shape, hair type, and lifestyle.
85. What is finger waving? Finger Waving is the process of shaping and directing the hair into an “S” pattern through the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion. Finger waving was all the rage back in the 1920’s and 1930’s, which may have you wondering why you are being asked to learn this technique today. In addition to its use in today’s fashion, finger waving teaches you the technique of moving and directing hair. It also provides valuable training in molding hair to the curved surface of the head and is an excellent introduction to hairstyling.
86. What is Finger Waving Lotion? Waving lotion is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger waving procedure. It is traditionally made from karaya gum, taken from trees found in Africa and India. Karaya gum is diluted for use on fine hair or it can be used in a more concentrated consistency on medium or coarse hair. A good waving lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake when it dries. Be sure not to use too much, as the hair will be too wet and the waving lotion will drip. Liquid styling gels are also
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commonly used in conjunction with finger waving, and in many cases, have phased out traditional karaya gum products.
87. Explain the difference between Vertical Finger Waving and Horizontal Finger Waving. In vertical finger waving, the ridges and waves run up and down the head. Horizontal finger waves are sideways and parallel around the head. The procedure is the same for both.
88. Explain Pin Curls. Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles. You can use them on all types of hair, including straight, permanent waved, or naturally curly hair. Pin curls work best when the hair is layered and is smoothly wound. This makes springy and long-lasting curls with good direction and definition.
89. Name and define the parts of the Pin Curl. 1. Base 2. Stem 3. Circle
The base is the stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl, which is the area closest to the scalp. The stem is the section of the pin curl between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle that gives the curl its direction and movement. The circle is the part of the Pin Curl that forms a complete circle. The size of the circle determines the width of the wave and its strength.
90. What does the stem in a pin curl determine? The stem determines the amount of mobility, or movement, of a section of hair. Curl mobility is classified as no-stem, half-stem, and full-stem.
91. Explain the following parts of the Pin Curl: 1. No-Stem Curl
The no-stem curl is placed directly on the base of the curl. It produces a tight, firm; long-lasting curland allows mimimum mobility.
2. Half-Stem Curl
The half-stem curl permits medium movement; the curl is placed half off the base. It gives good control to the hair.
3. Full-Stem Curl
The full-stem curl allows for the greatest mobility. The curl is placed completely off the base. The base may be a square, triangular, halfmoon, or rectangular section, depending on the area of the head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit. If it is exaggerated, the hair near the scalp will be flat and almost straight. It is used to give the hair a 28 | P a g e
strong, definite direction.
92. Explain shaping for pin curl placements. A shaping is a section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are either open-end or closedend. Always begin a pin curl at the open end, or convex side, of a shaping.
93. Explain the following Shaping types used in a pin curl: 1. Open-Center Curls 2. Closed-Center Curls
Open-center curls produce even, smooth waves, and uniform curls. Closed-center curls produce waves that get smaller in size toward the end.
94. Explain the difference between a “clockwise curl” and “counterclockwise curls”. Curls formed in the same direction as the movement in the hands of a clock are known as clockwise curls. Curls formed in the opposite direction are known as counterclockwise curls.
95. How do you begin when making pin curls? Before you begin to make pin curls, divide the wet hair into sections or panels. Then subdivide each section into the type of base required for the various curls. The most commonly shaped base you will use is the arc base (half-moon or Cshape). Others are rectangular, triangular, or square. To avoid splits in the finished hairstyle, you must use care when selecting and forming the curl base. When the sections of hair are as equals possible, you will get curls that are similar to one another. Each curl must lie flat and smooth on its base. If it is too far off the base, the curl will lie loose away from the scalp. The shape of the base, however, does not affect the finished curl.
96. Describe the following base pin curls. 1. Rectangular Base Pin Curls
Rectangular base pin curls are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, upsweep effect. To 29 | P a g e
avoid splits in the comb-out, the pin curls must overlap. 2. Triangular Base Pin Curls
3. Arc Base Pin Curls
4. Square Base Pin Curls
Triangular base pin curls are recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle. The triangular base allows a portion of the hair from each curl to overlap the next, and can be combed into a wave without splits. Arc base pin curls, also known as half-moon or C-shape base curls, are carved out of shaping. Arc base pin curls give good direction and may be used at the hairline or in the nape. Square base pin curls are suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift. They can be used on any part of the head and will comb-out with lasting results. To avoid splits in the comb-out, stagger the sectioning.
97. Explain ribboning. One important technique to learn is called ribboning, which involves forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension. You can also ribbon hair by pulling the strands while applying pressure between your thumb and index finger out toward the ends of the strands.
98. Explain carved or sculptured curls. Pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head are referred to as carved curls (or sculptured curls).
99. How is a wave created? To create a wave, use two rows of pin curls. Set one row clockwise, and the second row counterclockwise.
100. What are ridge curls? Ridge curls are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave.
101. What are skip waves? Skip waves are two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head. 30 | P a g e
102. What is one of the best things about a pin curl? One of the best things about pin curls is they can add volume to the hair.
103. Name and explain the two types of pin curls that are particularly effective in adding volume to the hair. 1. Cascade or Stand – Up Curls
2. Barrel Curls
Cascade or stand-up curls, which are used to create height in the hair design. They are fastened to the head in a standing position to allow the hair to flow upward and then downward. The size of the curl determines the height of the comb-out. Barrel curls, which have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base. They have the same effect as standup pin curls. A barrel curl is similar to a roller, but does not have the same tension as a roller when it is set.
104. Rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls. Name the advantages rollers have over pin curls. ďƒ˜ Because a roller holds the equivalent of two to four stand-up curls, the roller is a much faster way to set the hair. ďƒ˜ The hair is wrapped around the roller with tension, which gives a stronger and longerlasting set. Rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for any style.
105. Name and explain the 3 parts of a roller curl. 1. Base
The panel of hair on which the roller is placed. The base should be the same length and width as the roller. The type of base affects the volume.
2. Stem
The hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller. The stem gives the hair direction and mobility. Or Circle. The hair that is wrapped around the roller. It determines the size of the wave or curl.
3. Curl
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106. How do you use rollers to create the 3 different types of curls? 1. C-Shape Curl
One complete turn, around the roller will create a C-shape curl.
2. Wave Curl
One and a half turns will create a wave.
3. Curl
Two and a half turns will create curls.
107. The general rule of thumb is that the _______________________ the roller, the _____________ the volume. Larger/Greater. 108. Describe and name the three types of roller placement. 1. On Base
For full volume, the roller sits directly on its base.
2. Half Base
For medium volume, the roller sits halfway on its base, and halfway behind the base. Hold the strand straight up from the head and roll the hair down.
3. Off Base
For least volume, the roller sits completely off the base. Hold the strand 45 degrees down from the base and roll the hair down.
109. Explain roller direction and the versatility in styling. For versatility in styling, a downward directional wrap gives options to style in all directions – under, out, forward, or back, while still maintaining volume
110. Hot rollers are only to be used on ____________ hair. Dry.
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111. Explain the result when using hot rollers compared to curling irons. The result is a curl that is less strong than a wet set curl but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron.
112. Why are Velcro rollers not used often in the U.S.? Velcro rollers are not allowed by the state board of some states and provinces due to the difficulty in sanitizing them properly.
113. As with hot rollers, Velcro rollers are used only on _____________ hair. Dry.
114. Velcro rollers need to stay in the hair for only ____________________ minutes, depending on how much set you want in the hair. 5 to 10.
115. Explain the following. 1. Backcombing
Back-combing, also called teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing, involves combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base.
2. Backbrushing
Back-brushing, also called ruffling, is used to build a soft cushion or mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb-out.
116. What is hair wrapping? Hair wrapping is used to keep curly hair smooth and straight, while still retaining a beautiful shape.
117. Describe the blow-dry styling technique. Blow-dry styling is the technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation and has revolutionized the hairstyling world.
118. Define the following types of styling products. 1. Foam or Mousse
Foam or mousse is a light, airy whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam. It builds moderate body and volume into the hair.
2. Gel
Gel is a thickened styling preparation that comes in a tube or bottle. 33 | P a g e
Gels create the strongest control for slick and molded styles, and distinct texture definition when spread through the fingers.
3. Liquid Gels or Texturizers
Liquid gels or Texturizers are lighter and more viscous (liquid) in form. They allow for easy styling, defining, and molding.
4. Pomade or wax
Pomade or wax adds considerable weight to the hair by causing strands to join together, showing separation in the hair.
5. Silicone
Silicone adds gloss and sheen to the hair, while creating textural definition.
6. Hair Spray or Finishing Spray
Hair spray or finishing spray is applied in the form of a mist to hold a style in position. It is the most widely used hairstyling product.
119. What is thermal waving and thermal curling? Thermal waving (also called Marcel waving) and thermal curling are methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hair.
120. What are thermal irons made up of? Thermal irons are made up of quality steel that are used to curl dry hair.
121. How do you test the thermal iron? After heating the iron to the desired temperature, test it on a piece of tissue paper or a damp towel. Clamp the heated iron over this material and hold for 5 seconds. If it scorches or turns brown, the iron is too hot. Let it cool a bit before using. An overly hot iron can scorch the hair, and discolor white hair. Remember that fine, lightened, or badly damaged hair withstands less heat than normal hair.
122. How do you determine the best temperature when using a thermal iron? There is no single correct temperature used for the iron when thermal curling or waving the hair. The temperature setting for an iron depends on the texture of the hair, whether it is fine or coarse, or whether it has been lightened or tinted. Hair that has been lightened or tinted, as well as white hair should be curled and waved with a gentle heat. As a rule, coarse or gray hair can withstand more heats than fine hair.
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123. Define the following curls: Spiral Curls
The spiral curl is a method of curling the hair by winding a strand around the rod. It creates hanging curls suitable for medium to long hairstyles.
End Curls
End curls can be used to give a finished appearance to hair ends. Long, medium-length, or short hair may be styled with end curls.
VolumeBased Curls
Volume-based curls provide maximum lift or volume, since the curl is placed very high on its base.
Full-Base Curls
Full-base curls provide a strong curl with full volume.
Half-Base Curls
Half-base curls provide a strong curl with moderate lift or volume.
Off-Base Curls
Off-base curls offer a curl option with only slight lift or volume.
124. List the 14 safety measures taken when using a Thermal iron. 1. Use thermal irons only after receiving instruction in their use. 2. Keep thermal irons clean. 3. Do not overheat the iron, because this can damage the ability of the iron to hold heat uniformly. 4. Test the temperature of the iron on tissue paper or a damp towel before placing it o the hair. This will safeguard against burning the hair. 5. Handle the thermal iron carefully to avoid burning yourself or the client. 6. Place hot irons in a safe place to cool. Do not leave them where someone might accidentally come into contact with them and be burned. 7. When heating a conventional iron, do not place the handles too close to the heater. Your hand might be burned when removing the iron. 8. Make sure the iron is properly balanced in the heater, or it may fall and be damaged or injure someone. 35 | P a g e
9. Use only hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Celluloid combs must not be used in thermal curling, as they are flammable. 10. Do not use metal combs; they can become hot and burn the scalp. 11. Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curling or waving hair to prevent burning the scalp. 12. The client’s hair must be clean and completely dry to ensure a good thermal curl or wave. 13. Do not allow hair ends to protrude over the iron; this causes fishhooks (hair that is bent or is folded). 14. When ironing lightened, tinted or relaxed hair, always use a gentle heat setting.
125. What is hair pressing? Hair pressing temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated comb. A pressing generally lasts until the hair is shampooed.
126. Name and define the 3 types of hair pressing. 1. Soft Press
Soft press, which removes about 50 to 60 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair.
2. Medium Press
Medium press, which removes about 60 to 75 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair using slightly more pressure.
3. Hard Press
Hard press, which removes 100 percent of the curl, is accomplished by applying the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair. A hard press can also be done by first passing a hot thermal iron through the hair. This is called a double press.
127. Failure to correct ____________ and ______________ hair can result in hair breakage during hair pressing. ________________ hair strands cannot be conditioned. Dry/brittle/Burned.
128. There are two types of pressing combs: _________________ and _________________. Both 36 | P a g e
should be constructed of good-quality ______________________ or _______________. Regular/electric/stainless steel/brass.
129. What is an up do? An updo is a hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders, and secured with implements such as hairpins, bobby pins, and elastics. Clients usually request undoes for special occasions such as weddings, proms, and evening events.
130. Name the 3 popular updo styles listed in your textbook.
1. Chignon
2. Basic French Twist
3. Classic French Twist
131. Explain 4 basic curl patterns:
Root Curl The root curl creates volume of hair, movement, and a curl formation from roots to ends. It is the most commonly used technique and works best on short or long layered hair Spiral Curl
The spiral curl is a method of curling the hair by winding a strand around the rod. It creates a vertical corkscrew effect and works best on one length hair to create volume
Waves Waves create an S pattern and gives texture and volume to the hair. Waves are a popular classic technique that can be applied on any texture and length, usually a surface enhancer. End Curls
End Curls can be used to give a finished appearance to hair ends. Long, medium-length, or short hair may be styled with end curls. The hair ends can be turned under or over, as desired. The position and direction of the curling iron determine whether the end curls will turn under or over
131. In case of scalp burn immediately apply ____________________________. Most pharmacies carry it. In case of a scalp burn, immediately apply 1 percent gentian (JEN-chun) violet jelly. Most pharmacies carry gentian violet. It should be noted that gentian violet jelly may cause temporary staining of the skin for a few days due to its violet tint. 37 | P a g e
132. Explain the 5 key points of an up-do
Preparing Preparing your tools and materials is essential before beginning an up-do. A list of tools can be found in the chignon procedure under “implements and materials.� Performing an up-do on hair that has been washed the previous day is often recommended, as freshly washed hair can be very slippery and difficult to work with. The hair needs to have some grip or the pins and style will not hold. Many stylists also choose to use thermal irons or set the hair in hot rollers prior to doing an updo. The curl allows the hair to be more easily manipulated into rolls or loops and creates a fuller shape. Use a slow-drying aerosol hairspray; it will allow you to work with the hair before it dries. Sectioning
Sectioning the hair before you begin allows you to control long hair and a work with cleanliness. Every style has a sectioning pattern; keeping the lines simple will allow you to execute the look in a timely manner and ensure a quality end result.
Pinning Pinning will keep your up-do secure, but one thing to remember is that less is more. There are two types of pins: Hairpins are openended and can be anchored by bending one end of the pin back so when inserted it automatically locks into place. They work best on hair that has been backcombed or back-brushed, as having a base will prevent them falling out. Bobby pins have a different function as they are used to keep the hair tight to the head and can be interlocked to secure it in place.
Balance
Balance is often overlooked and can be the difference between a flattering style or one that is not. The head shape, neckline, and facial structure should be analyzed before committing to a look. It is good practice to stand back and away from your work to make sure the balance is right, use the mirror and look at every angle— front, back and profile.
Texture
Texture is what creates the foundation that allows you to build your shape, design your style, and customize it to the individual. With the styling tools and products of today, we can manipulate and create any texture.
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