“Everything Else” Part 2 Skin Diseases and Disorders, Hair Removal, Facials, Facial Make-up State Board Review Chapters 8, 22, 23, & 24 Chapter 8: Skin Diseases and Disorders 1. What has the greatest impact on how skin ages? The sun and its ultraviolet (UV) rays have the greatest impact on how skin ages. 2. What percent of aging is caused by the rays of the sun? 80 to 85%. 3. What happens to our skin as we age? As we age, the collagen and elastin fibers of the skin naturally weaken. 4. What are UVA rays? UVA rays, also called the “aging rays”, are deep penetrating rays that can even go through a glass window. These rays weaken the collagen and elastin fibers, causing wrinkling and the sagging of the tissues. 5. What are UVB rays? UVB rays, also referred to as the “burning rays”, cause sunburns and tanning of the skin affecting the melanocytes, the cells of the epidermis that are responsible for producing melanin, the skin pigment. 6. What is telangiectasias? Dilated capillaries caused by tobacco use, sun exposure, or other environmental factors. 7. What is a lesion? A lesion is a mark on the skin. Certain lesions indicate an injury or damage that changes the structure of tissues and organs. 8. What are the three (3) types of lesions? Primary, secondary, and tertiary. 9. What types of lesions are cosmetologists concerned with? The cosmetologist is concerned with primary and secondary lesions only. 1|Page
10. Name the terms for the following definitions: Bulla
A large blister containing a watery fluid. Similar to a vesicle but this is larger.
Cyst
A closed, abnormally developed sac that contains fluid, pus, semi fluid, or morbid matter, above or below the skin.
Macule
A spot or discoloration on the skin, such as a freckle. Macules are neither raised nor sunken.
Papule
A pimple; small circumscribed elevation on the skin that contains no fluid but may develop pus.
Pustule
An inflamed pimple containing pus.
Tubercle
An abnormal rounded, solid lump above, within, or under the skin; larger than a papule.
Tumor
A swelling; an abnormal cell mass resulting from excess multiplication of cells, varying in size, shape, and color. Nodules are also referred to as tumors, but are smaller.
Vesicle
A small blister or sac containing clear liquid, lying within or just beneath the epidermis. Poison ivy and poison oak, for example, produce vesicles.
Wheal
An, itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a few hours, caused by a blow, the bite of an insect, uticaria (skin allergy), or the sting of a nettle. Examples include hives and mosquito bites.
9. When do secondary lesions develop? Secondary skin lesions develop in the later stages of disease. 10. Name the terms for the following definitions:
Crust
Dead cells that form over a wound or blemish while it is healing; an accumulation of sebum and pus, sometimes mixed with epidermal material. An example is the scab on a sore.
Excoriation
A skin sore or abrasion produced by scratching or scraping.
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Fissure
A crack in the skin that penetrates the dermis. Examples are chapped hands or lips.
Keloid
A thick scar resulting from excessive growth of fibrous tissue.
Scale
Any thin dry or oily plate of epidermal flakes. An example is abnormal or excessive dandruff.
Scar or cicatrix
Light-colored, slightly raised mark on the skin formed after an injury or lesion of the skin has healed.
Ulcer
An open lesion on the skin or mucous membrane of the body, accompanied by pus and loss of skin depth.
11. What is a comedo? A comedo is a hair follicle filled with keratin and sebum. Comedones appear most frequently on the face, especially in the T-zone. 12. What causes blackheads? When the sebum of the comedo is exposed to the environment, it oxidizes and turns black. 13. What happens to a comedo when the follicle is closed and not exposed to the environment? When the follicle is closed and not exposed to the environment, the sebum remains a white or cream color (whiteheads or closed comedones). 14. How should comedones be removed? Comedones should be removed under aseptic conditions using proper extraction procedures. Should the condition become severe, medical attention is necessary. 15. What are milia? Milia are benign, keratin filled, cysts that appear just under the epidermis and have no visible opening. They resemble small sesame seeds, and are almost always perfectly round. 16. Describe acne. Acne is a skin disorder characterized by chronic inflammation of the sebaceous glands from retained secretions, and bacteria known as Propionibacterium acnes. 17. Where does acne mostly occur? It occurs most frequently occurs on the face, the back, and chest.
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18. What is acne also known as? Acne vulgaris. 19. How is the seriousness of acne rated? The seriousness of acne is rated by grades, from 1 to 4. Grade 1 is common pimples with comedones, typically considered minor acne. 20. What professions most often treat acne? Cosmetologists and estheticians often treat clients with comedones. 21. What is Grade 4 acne? Grade 4 is cystic acne with large nodules and pustular cysts. The higher grades of acne should be referred to a dermatologist for medical treatment. 22. What is seborrheic dermatitis? A skin condition caused by inflammation of the sebaceous glands. It is often characterized by inflammation, dry or oily scaling and crusting, and/or itchiness. The red, flaky skin often appears in the eyebrows, in the scalp and hairline, the middle of the forehead, and along the sides of the nose. 23. What is asteatosis? Asteatosis is a condition of dry, scaly skin due to a deficiency or absence of sebum, caused by old age and exposure to cold. 24. Describe rosacea. Rosacea, formerly called acne rosacea, is a chronic condition appearing primarily on the cheeks and nose, characterized by flushing (redness), telangiectasias (dilation of the surface blood vessels), and the formation of papules (small, solid bumps) and pustules (raised lesions containing pus). The cause of rosacea is unknown, but certain factors are known to aggravate the condition in some individuals. These include spicy foods, caffeine, alcohol, exposure to extremes of heat and cold or sunlight, and stress. 25. What is a steatoma? A steatoma is a sebaceous cyst or fatty tumor. It is filled with sebum and ranges from a pea to an orange. It usually appears on the scalp, neck, and back. A steatoma is sometimes called a wen. 26. Describe the following disorders of the sudoriferous (sweat glands):
ďƒ˜ Anihidrosis:
Deficiency in perspiration, often a result of fever or certain skin diseases.
ďƒ˜ Bromhidrosis:
Foul smelling perspiration, usually noticeable in the armpits or on the feet.
ďƒ˜ Hyperhidrosis:
Excessive sweating caused by heat or general body weakness. Medical treatment is required.
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Milaria rubra:
Prickly heat; acute inflammatory disorder of the sweat glands, characterized by the eruption of small red vesicles and accompanied by burning, itching skin. It is caused by exposure to excessive heat.
27. Name the term for the following definitions:
Dermatitis
Inflammatory condition of the skin. The lesions come in various forms, including vesicles or papules.
Herpes Simplex
Fever blister or cold sore; recurring viral infection.
Psoriasis
A skin disease characterized by red patches, covered with silver-white scales usually found on the scalp, elbows, knees, chest, and lower back.
Eczema
An inflammatory, painful itching disease of the skin, acute or chronic in nature, presenting many forms of dry or moist lesions.
28. What affects pigmentation of the skin? Pigment can be affected by internal factors such as heredity or hormonal fluctuations, or by outside factors such as prolonged exposure to the sun.
29. Match the following terms of Pigmentation of the skin to their matching definitions:
Albinism
Skin disorder characterized by light abnormal patches; caused by a burn or congenital disease that destroys pigment producing cells.
Vitiligo
Condition characterized by increased pigmentation on the skin in spots that are not elevated. 5|Page
Chloasma
Congenital leukoderma or absence of melanin pigment of the body, including the skin, hair, and eyes.
Tan
Technical term for freckles.
Lentignes
Milky white spots (leukoderma) of the skin. Vitiligo is hereditary, and may be related to thyroid conditions.
Stain
Change in pigmentation of skin caused by exposure to the sun or ultraviolet rays.
Leukoderma
Abnormal brown or wine-colored skin discoloration with a circular and irregular shape. Its permanent color is due to the presence of darker pigment.
Nevus
Small or large malformation of the skin due to abnormal pigmentation or dilated capillaries.
29 Match these terms to their definitions.
Keratoma
Technical term for wart; hypertrophy of the papillae and epidermis.
Mole
Small brown or flesh-colored outgrowth of the skin. Skin tags occur most frequently on the neck of an older person.
Skin Tag
A small, brownish spot or blemish on the skin, ranging in color from pale tan to brown or bluish black.
Verruca
An acquired, superficial, thickened patch of epidermis commonly known as callus, caused by pressure or friction on the hands and feet.
31. Name the three (3) distinct forms of skin cancer. 6|Page
1. Basal Cell Carcinoma
The most common type and least severe.
2. Squamous Cell Carcinoma
Is more serious than basal cell carcinoma.
3. Malignant Carcinoma
Often characterized by black or dark brown patches on the skin that may appear uneven in texture, jagged, or raised.
32. Where do malignant melanomas often appear? Malignant melanomas often appear on
individuals who do not receive regular sun exposure, and are most commonly located on areas o the body that are not regularly exposed. 33. What is the most common skin disease for nail practitioners? Dermatitis venenata, also known
as contact dermatitis is the most common skin disease for nail practitioners.
34. Explain irritant contact dermatitis. Irritating substances will temporarily damage the epidermis.
When the skin is damaged by irritating substances, the immune system sprigs into action.
35. Explain the effects of exposure to the sun on the skin. The sun and its ultraviolet (UV) light
have the greatest impact of all extrinsic factors on how skin ages. Approximately 80 to 85 percent of the symptoms of aging skin are caused by the accumulation of damaging rays from the sun. As we age, the collagen and elastin fibers of the skin naturally weaken, and this weakening happens at a much faster rate when the skin is frequently exposed to UV light without proper protection. When we call UV light a “UV ray� that is just a shorter way of saying that it is a form of radiation, and as such it can be damaging!
36.
What are UVA rays known as: aging waves, these rays weaken the collagen and elastin fibers, causing wrinkling and sagging of the tissues?
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37. What are UVB rays known as: burning rays, cause sunburns, tanning of the skin, and the
majority of skin cancers, these are shorter rays that stop penetration at the base of the epidermis.
38. Allergic contact dermatitis (AL-urg-jic KAHN-takt der-mah-TIT-tis), abbreviated ACD,
occurs when a person (cosmetologist or client) develops an allergy to an ingredient or a chemical, usually caused by repeated skin contact with the chemical. Sensitization (sen-sih-TIZ-aye-shun) is an allergic reaction created by repeated exposure to a chemical or a substance. Monomer liquids, haircolor, and chemical texture solutions are all common causes of allergic reactions with repeated exposures.
39. Irritant contact dermatitis (IRH-ih-tent KAHN-takt der-mah-TIH-tus), abbreviated ICD,
occurs when irritating substances temporarily damage the epidermis. Unlike allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis is not usually chronic if precautions are taken.
Chapter 22: Hair Removal 40. What is Hirsuties or Hypertrichosis? Hirsuties or Hypertrichosis are terms that refer to the
growth of an unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair, such as the faces of women and the backs of men.
41. Describe electrolysis. Electrolysis is the removal of hair by means of an electric current that
destroys the growth cells of the hair. 42. What is photoepilation? Photoepilation uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the
hair follicles. 43. What is laser hair removal? Laser hair removal is a laser beam that is pulsed on the skin. 44. What is a depilatory? A depilatory is a substance, usually a caustic alkali preparation, used for
the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at the skin surface level.
45. What is an epilator? An epilator removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle.
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46. What is the commonly used epilator? Wax is a commonly used epilator, applied in either hot or
cold form as recommended by the manufacturer. Both products are made primarily of resins and beeswax. 47. What is the time between waxings? The time between waxings is generally 4 to 6 weeks. 48. What hair removal method is still commonly used in many Eastern cultures today? Threading is
a temporary hair removal method that is still practiced in many Eastern cultures today. 49. What is another epilator treatment that is becoming more popular? Sugaring, another epilator
treatment, is also becoming more popular and produces the same results as hot or cold wax. 50. What is another form of hair removal that uses electric current? Electrolysis 51. What are the 6 safety precautions for waxing
To prevent burns, always test the temperature of the heated wax before applying to the client’s skin. Use a professional wax heater for warming wax. Never heat wax in a microwave or on a stove top. Wax can become overheated and burn the client’s skin. Use caution so that the wax does not come in contact with the eyes. Never double-dip wax. When removing wax from the wax pot, always use a new spatula. To prevent burns, always test the temperature of the heated wax before applying to the client’s skin. Use a professional wax heater for warming wax. Never heat wax in a microwave or on a stove top. Wax can become overheated and burn the client’s skin. Use caution so that the wax does not come in contact with the eyes. Never double-dip wax. When removing wax from the wax pot, always use a new spatula. Do not apply wax over warts, moles, abrasions, or irritated or inflamed skin. Do not remove hair protruding from a mole because the wax could cause trauma to the mole. The skin under the arms is sometimes very sensitive. If so, use hard wax. Redness and swelling sometimes occur after waxing sensitive skin. Apply an aloe gel and cool compresses to calm and soothe the skin. Do not apply wax over warts, moles, abrasions, or irritated or inflamed skin. Do not remove hair protruding from a mole because the wax could cause trauma to the mole. The skin under the arms is sometimes very sensitive. If so, use hard wax. Redness and swelling sometimes occur after waxing sensitive skin. Apply an aloe gel and cool compresses to calm and soothe the skin.
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Chapter 23: Facials 52. Describe a contraindication. Contraindication is a condition the client has, or a treatment the
client is undergoing, that might cause a negative side effect during a facial treatment. For example, if a client is allergic to fragrance, using a fragranced product would be contraindicated. 53. What type of skin is considered to be alipidic? The term alipidic means “lack of lipids�, that is,
the skin is not producing enough sebum. 54. What type of skin is alipidic also referred to as? Dry skin. 55. Why does alipidic skin become dehydrated? Alipidic skin becomes dehydrated because it does
not produce enough sebum to prevent the evaporation of cell moisture.
56. What are open comedones? Pores may become clogged from dead cells building up in the hair
follicle, or there may be open comedones (blackheads) present. Open comedones are a mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell buildup stuck in the follicles.
57. What is the difference between open comedones and closed comedones? The difference
between closed and open comedones is the size of the follicle opening or ostium. 58. What does the presence of pimples in oily areas indicate? Acne. 59. Why acne is considered a skin type? Acne is considered a skin type because the tendency to
develop acne is heredity.
60. What is acne? Acne is a disorder in which the follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of
the follicle with redness and inflammation.
61. Are acne bacteria anaerobic? Yes. 62. What is anaerobic and how does it affect acne? Acne bacteria are anaerobic which means they
cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. When follicles are blocked with solidified sebum and dead-cell buildup, oxygen cannot readily get to the bottom of the follicle where acne bacteria live. 63. What indicates dehydrated skin? Dehydration is indicated by flaky areas or skin that wrinkles
easily on the surface.
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64. What causes hyperpigmentation? Most types of hyperpigmentation, or dark blotches of color,
are caused by sun exposure or hormone imbalances. 65. Describe sensitive skin. Sensitive skin has a thin, red-pink look. Skin will turn red easily, and is
easily inflamed by some skin care products. 66. What is rosacea? Rosacea is a chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated by constant or
frequent facial blushing. Dilated capillaries, also known as telangiectasias or couperose are often present. 67. How should a client with rosacea be treated? Rosacea is considered a medical disorder, and
should be diagnosed by a dermatologist. You should treat a client who has rosacea with very gentle products and treatments, avoiding any treatment that releases heat or stimulates the skin.
68. Describe the symptoms of aging skin. Aging skin has loss of elasticity, and the skin tends to sag
in areas around the eyes and jawline. Wrinkles may be apparent in areas of normal facial expression.
69. Describe the symptoms of sun-damaged skin. Sun-damaged skin is skin that has been
chronically exposed to sun frequently over the client’s the client’s lifetime. Sun-damaged skin will have many areas of hyperpigmentation, lots of wrinkled areas including areas not in the normal facial expression, and sagging skin from damage to the elastic fibers. 70. Describe the following seven (7) skin care products.
1. Cleansing Milks:
Cleansing milks are non-foaming lotions. They are designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin types and to remove make up.
2. Foaming Cleansers:
Foaming cleansers are wash-off types of products.
3. Toners:
Toners, also sometimes known as fresheners, or astringents, are designed to lower the pH of the skin after cleansing, and to help remove excess cleaning milk.
4. Exfoliants:
Exfoliants are products that help bring about exfoliation or removal of excess dead cells from the skin surface.
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5. Mechanical Exfoliants:
Mechanical exfoliants work by physically “bumping off� dead cell buildup. Examples are granular scrubs, roll-off masks (gommages), and the use of microdermabrasion scrub products that have small crystals to remove dead buildup on the surface.
6. Chemical Exfoliants:
Chemical exfoliants contain chemicals that either loosed or dissolve dead skin buildup.
7. Enzyme Peels:
Enzyme peels are another type of chemical exfoliants. Enzyme peels work by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells.
63. Explain moisturizers. Moisturizers are products that help increase the moisture content of the skin surface. 64. How do moisturizers help the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles? They are basically mixtures of humectants also known as hydrators or water-building agents and emollients, which are oily or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin. 65. What are massage creams? Massage creams are lubricants to make skin slippery during the massage. 66. Describe masks. Masks are products that are applied to the skin for a short time, but have more immediate effects. Clay-based masks are often used for oily and combination skin. They are generally oil-absorbing cleansing masks, and have an exfoliating effect and an astringent effect, making large pores temporarily appear smaller. They may have an additional beneficial ingredient for soothing, or antibacterial ingredients like sulfur, which is helpful for acne-prone skin. 67. Why use gauze when applying a mask? Gauze is a thin, open-meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton. Masks that have a tendency to run can be applied over a layer of gauze. The gauze holds the mask on the face, while allowing the ingredients to seep through to benefit the skin. Cheesecloth is sometimes used as well. In some cases, it is necessary to apply a second layer of gauze over the mask to keep the ingredients from sliding off. Gauze is also used to keep paraffin and gypsum/plaster masks from sticking to the skin and the tiny hairs on the skin. 68. Describe the 4 main types of masks:
ďƒ˜
Clay-based masks
oil-absorbing cleansing masks that have an exfoliating effect and an astringent effect on oily and combination skin, 12 | P a g e
making large pores temporarily appear smaller. They may have additional beneficial ingredients for soothing, or they may include antibacterial ingredients like sulfur, which are helpful for acne-prone skin.
Cream masks
are masks often containing oils and emollients as well as humectants, and they have a strong moisturizing effect. They do not dry on the skin like clay masks do, and they are often used to moisturize dry skin.
Paraffin wax masks
are specially-prepared facial masks containing paraffin and other beneficial ingredients. They are melted at a little more than body temperature before application. The paraffin quickly cools to a lukewarm temperature and hardens to a candle-like consistency. Paraffin masks are applied over a treatment cream to allow the cream’s ingredients to penetrate more deeply into the surface layers of the skin. Eye pads and gauze are used in a paraffin mask application because facial hair could stick to the wax if it is not covered, making the mask difficult and painful to remove.
Modelage masks
MAHD-ul-ahj MAS`KZ) contain special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient. As with paraffin masks, modelage masks are used with a treatment cream. Modelage masks are mixed with cold water immediately before application and applied about ¼-inch (0.6 centimeters) thick. After application, the modelage mask hardens. The chemical reaction that occurs when the plaster and the crystals mix with water produces a gradual increase in temperature that reaches approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit. As the mask is left on the skin, the temperature gradually cools, until it has cooled down completely. The setting time for modelage masks is approximately 20 minutes. Modelage masks sometimes vary in mixing technique or timing. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the product you are using.
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69. What is effleurage? Effleurage is a light, continuous stroking movement applied with the fingers (digital) or the palms (palmar) in a slow, rhythmic manner. No pressure is used. The palms work the large surfaces, while the cushions of the fingertips work the small surfaces, such as those around the eyes. Effleurage is frequently used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder, neck, chest, arms, and hands for its soothing and relaxing effects. Every massage should begin and end with effleurage. 70. What type of basic massage is petrissage? Petrissage is a kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light firm pressure. 71. What does petrissage offer? Petrissage offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves, and skin glands, and improves circulation. 72. Where are petrissage kneading movements usually limited to? These kneading movements are usually limited to the back, shoulders, and arms. 73. Explain the form of petrissage called fulling. Fulling is a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and spread out, used mainly for massaging the arms. With the fingers of both hands grasping the arm, apply a kneading movement across the flesh, with light pressure on the underside of the client’s forearm and between the shoulder and elbow.
74. Describe friction. Friction is a deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on the skin with your fingers or palm while moving it over an underlying structure. Friction has been known to have a significant benefit on the circulation and glandular activity of the skin. Circular friction movements are typically used on the scalp, arms, and hands. Light circular friction is used on the face and the neck. 75. What are the three (3) variations of friction? Chucking, rolling, and wringing. 76. Name the term for the following definitions.
Chucking
Grasping the flesh firmly in one hand and moving the hand up and down along the bone while the other hand keeps the arm or leg in a steady position.
Rolling
Pressing and twisting the tissues with a fast back-and-forth movement.
Wringing
Vigorous movement in which the hands, placed a little distance apart on both sides of the client’s arm or leg and working 14 | P a g e
downward, apply a twisting motion against the bones in the opposite direction.
75. What is tapotement or percussion? Tapotement or percussion consists of short, quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements. This form of massage is the most stimulating and should be applied with care and discretion. Tapotement movements tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow to the area being massaged. 76. Describe hacking. Hacking is a chopping movement performed with the edges of the hands. Both of the wrists and hands move alternately in fast, light, firm, and flexible motions against the skin. 77. What part(s) of the body are hacking and slapping movements used? Hacking and slapping movements are used only to massage the back, shoulders, and arms. 78. Describe vibration. Vibration is a rapid shaking of the body part while the balls of the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application. The movement is accomplished by rapid muscular contractions in your arms. It is a highly relaxing movement, and should be applied at the end of the massage
79. Explain what microcurrent is. Microcurrent is a type of galvanic treatment that is a computerized device that has many applications in skin care. Microcurrent is best known for helping to tone the skin, producing a “lifting” effect for aging skin with lack of elasticity. 80. Who discovered high frequency current’s application in skin care? High frequency current was discovered by Nikolas Tesla. 81. How is high frequency current used? It is used to stimulate blood flow and help products penetrate the skin. 82. What type of light is traditionally used in light therapy? Several types of light are used in light therapy. Traditionally, infrared lamps have been used to heat the skin and increase blood flow. 83. What are the two (2) different categories of facial treatments? Preservative and corrective. 84. Name the term for the following definitions.
Preservative
Maintains the health of the facial skin by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin 15 | P a g e
glands and metabolism through massage.
ďƒ˜ Corrective
Correct certain facial skin conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and minor conditions of acne.
Chapter 24: Facial Makeup 85. Define the following terms:
1. Foundation:
Foundation is a tinted cosmetic, also known as base makeup, and is used to cover or even out the coloring of the skin.
2. Concealers:
Concealers are thicker and heavier types of foundations that contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage.
3. Face Powder:
Face powder is a cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted or scented, that is used to add a matte or non-shiny finish to the face.
4. Cheek Color:
Cheek color, also known as blush or rouge, is used primarily to add a natural looking glow to the cheeks, but can also be used to add a little extra color to the face.
5. Lip Color:
Lip color, more commonly called lipstick or gloss, is a paste-like cosmetic, usually in a metal or plastic tube.
6. Eye Shadows:
Eye shadows are cosmetics applied on the eyelids to accentuate or contour them. They are available in almost every color of the rainbow, from warm to cool, neutral to bright, and light to dark.
7. Eyeliner:
Eyeliner is a cosmetic used to outline and emphasize the eyes. It is available in a variety of colors, in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), or felt tip pen form.
8. Mascara:
Mascara is a cosmetic preparation used to darken, define, and thicken the 16 | P a g e
eyelashes.
86. What is the best way to take good care of your brushes and cleaning them gently? A commercial sanitizer can be used for quick cleaning, although spray-on instant sanitizers contain a high level alcohol and will dry brushes over time. A gentle shampoo or solvent should be used to truly clean the brushes. These products will not hurt brushes and may actually help them last longer. 87. Why is it important to learn about warm and cool colors? Learning the difference between warm and cool colors is essential to your success as a makeup artist. This is the basis of all color selection, and understanding the difference will enable you to properly enhance your client’s coloring. How do you determine the skin color? When determining the skin color, you should first decide if the skin is light, medium, or dark in level. Then determine whether the tone of the skin is warm or cool.
88. Define the following terms:
Warm Color:
Warm colors are the range from yellow and gold through the oranges, re-oranges, most reds, and even some yellow-greens.
Cool Color:
Cool colors suggest coolness and are dominated by blues, greens, violets and blue-reds.
89. What is the significance of reds and greens? You will notice that reds can be both warm and cool. If the red is orange-based, it is warm. If it is blue-based, it is cool. Green is similar; if a green contains more gold, it is warm; if it contains more blue, it is cool. 90. What does it mean when people refer to a color as having a lot of blue in it? You may hear people refer to a color as having a lot of blue in it. For example: “This lipstick has a blue base” or “That blush is very blue.” This does not mean that the color is truly blue. Rather, it means that when the pigments were mixed to create that cosmetic, bluer color was added. What you are seeing might look primarily violet or magenta. 91. What is contrary to popular beliefs in eye color vs. shadow color? Contrary to public belief, matching eye color with shadow color is not the best way to enhance this area as it only creates a flat region of color. By contrasting eye color with complementary colors, you emphasize the color most effectively.
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92. What is the most ideally shaped face? The ideal oval face is approximately three-fourths as wide as it is long. The distance between the eyes is the width of one eye. 93. How is corrected make up used on the following face shapes?
Round Face
Corrective makeup can be applied to slenderize and lengthen the face.
Square-shaped Face
Corrective makeup can be applied to offset the squareness and soften the hard lines around the face.
Triangular (Pear-Shaped) Face
Corrective makeup can be applied to create width at the forehead, slenderize the jawline, and add length to the face.
Inverted Triangle (Heart-Shaped) Face
Corrective makeup can be applied to minimize the width of the forehead and increase the width of the jawline.
DiamondShaped Face
Corrective makeup can be applied to reduce the width across the cheekbone line.
Oblong Face
Corrective makeup can be applied to create the illusion of width across the cheekbone line, making the face appear shorter.
95. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a low forehead? For a low forehead, the application of a lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between the brows and hairline. 96. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a protruding forehead? For a protruding forehead, applying a darker foundation over the prominent area gives an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face and minimizes the bulging forehead. 97. A suitable ________________ also goes a long way toward drawing attention away from the forehead. Hairstyle.
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98. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a large or protruding nose? For a large or protruding nose, apply a darker foundation on the nose and a lighter foundation on the cheeks at the side of the nose. This will create fullness in the cheeks and will make the nose appear smaller. Avoid placing cheek color close to the nose. 99. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a short and flat nose? For a short and flat nose, apply a lighter foundation down the center of the nose, ending at the tip. This will make the nose appear longer and larger. 100. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client if the nostrils are wide? If the nostrils are wide, apply a darker foundation to both sides of the nostrils. 101. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a broad nose? For a broad nose, use a darker foundation on the sides of the nose and nostrils. Avoid carrying this dark tone into the laugh lines because it will accentuate them. 102. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a protruding chin and receding nose? For a protruding chin and receding nose, shadow the chin with a darker foundation and highlight the nose with a lighter foundation. 103. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a receding chin? For a receding chin, highlight the chin by using a lighter foundation than the one used on the face. 104. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a sagging double chin? For a sagging double chin, use a darker foundation on the sagging portion, and use a natural skin tone foundation on the face. 105. How should the stylist incorporate the jawline and neck area when applying makeup? The neck and jawline are just as important as the eyes, cheeks, and lips. When applying makeup, blend the foundation onto the neck so that the client’s color is consistent from face to neck. Always use a translucent powder to avoid transfer onto the client’s clothing. 106. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a broad jawline? To correct a broad jawline, apply a darker shade of foundation over the heavy area of the jaw, starting at the temples. This will minimize the lower part of the jaw, starting at the temples. This will minimize the lower part of the face and create an illusion of width in the upper part of the face. 107. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a narrow jawline? To a correct a narrow jawline, highlight by using a lighter foundation shade. 108. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a round, square, or triangular face? For a round, square, or triangular face, apply a darker shade of foundation over the prominent part of the jawline. By creating a shadow over this area, the prominent part of the jaw will appear softer and more oval. 19 | P a g e
109. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a small face and a short, thick neck? For a small face and a short, thick neck, use a darker foundation on the neck than the one used on the face. This will make the neck appear thinner. 110. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with a long, thin neck? For a long, thin neck, apply a lighter shade of foundation on the neck than the one used on the face. This will create the fullness and counteract the long, thin appearance of the neck. 111. How important are the eyes in balancing facial features? The eyes are very important in balancing facial features. The proper application of eye colors and shadow can create the illusion of the eyes being larger or smaller, and will enhance the overall attractiveness of the face.
112. Match these facial challenges to their solution for corrective makeup.
Round Eyes
Extend the shadow slightly above, beyond, and below the eyes.
Close-set Eyes
Lightly apply shadow up from the outer edge of the eyes.
Protruding or Bulging Eyes
Apply concealer over the dark area, blending and smoothing it into the surrounding area. Set lightly with translucent powder.
Heavy-lidded Eyes
Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket.
Small Eyes
Can be lengthened by extending the shadow beyond the outer corner of the eyes.
Wide-set Eyes
Use bright, light, reflective colors. Use the lightest color in the crease and light-to-medium color sparingly on the lid and brow bone.
Deep-set Eyes
Can be minimized by blending the shadow carefully over the prominent part of the upper lid, carrying it lightly toward the eyebrow. Use a medium shadow color.
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Dark Circles Under
Apply the shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid, toward the nose, and blend carefully.
Eyes
113. Explain how the eyebrows play an important part of facial makeup application. Reshaping and defining eyebrows can be an art unto itself. Well-groomed eyebrows are part of a complete and effective makeup application. The eyebrow is the frame for the eye. 114. How is the ideal eyebrow drawn? The ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn in three lines. The first line is vertical, from the inner corner of the eye upward. This is where the eyebrow should begin. The second line is drawn at an angle from the outer corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye. This is where the eyebrow should end. The third line is vertical, from the outer circle of the iris of the eye upward. 115. How should a stylist shape the eyebrows for a client with a low forehead? A low arch gives more height to a very low forehead. 116. How should a stylist shape the eyebrows for a client with wide-set eyes? The eyes can be made to appear closer together by extending the eyebrow lines to the inside corners of the eyes. However, care must be taken to avoid giving the client a frowning look. 117. How should a stylist shape the eyebrows for a client with close-set eyes? To make the eyes appear farther apart, widen the distance between the eyebrows and slightly extend them outward. 118. How should a stylist shape the eyebrows for a client with a round face? Arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower. Start on a line directly above the inside corner of the eye and extend to the end of the cheekbone. 119. How should a stylist shape the eyebrows for a client with a long face? Making the eyebrows almost straight can create the illusion of a shorter face. Do not extend the eyebrow lines farther than the outside corners of the eyes. 120. How should a stylist shape the eyebrows for a client with a square face? The face will appear more oval if there is a high arch on the ends of the eyebrows. Begin the lines directly above the corners of the eyes and extend them outward. 121. How are lips proportioned when applying cosmetics? Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves of peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils.
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122. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with ruddy skin? For ruddy skin (skin that is red, wind-burned, or affected by rosacea), apply a yellow or green foundation to affected areas, blending carefully. 123. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with sallow skin? For sallow skin (skin that has a yellowish hue), apply a pink-based foundation on the affected areas and blend carefully into the jaw and neck. 124. How should a stylist apply corrective makeup for a client with wrinkles? Age lines and wrinkles due to dry skin can be minimized with foundation. 125. Explain how to apply band lashes. Band lashes (sometimes referred to as strip lashes) are available in a variety of sizes, textures, and colors. They can be made from human hair, certain animal hair such as mink, or synthetic fibers. Synthetic fiber eyelashes are made with permanent curl and do not react to changes in weather conditions. Artificial eyelashes are available in natural colors ranging from light to dark brown and black to light auburn, as well as bright, trendy colors. Black and dark brown are the most popular choices.
126. Explain how to remove band eyelashes. You may use commercial preparations, such as pads saturated with special lotions, to remove band lashes. The lash base may also be softened by applying a face cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser. Hold the cloth over the eyes for a few seconds to soften the adhesive. Starting from the outer corner, remove the lashes carefully to avoid pulling out the client’s own lashes. Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and adhesive remaining on the eyelid. 127. What are individual lashes? Individual eyelashes are synthetic and attach directly to a client’s own lashes at their base. This procedure is sometimes referred to as eye tabbing. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for attaching individual lashes.
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