“Everything Else” Part 1 Skin Structure, Nail Structure, Properties of the Hair & Scalp Shampooing, Braids and Braid Extensions, Weaving State Board Review Chapters 7, 9, 11, 15, 18 & 19 Chapter 7: Skin Structure and Growth 1.
What is a dermatologist? A dermatologist is a physician engaged in the science of treating the skin, its structures, functions, and diseases.
2.
What is an esthetician? An esthetician is a specialist in the cleansing, preservation of health, and beautification of the skin and the body.
3.
Describe healthy skin. Healthy skin is slightly moist, soft, and flexible with a texture (feel and appearance) that ideally is smooth and fine-grained. The surface of healthy skin is slightly acidic, and its immune responses react quickly to organisms that touch or try to enter it. Appendages of the skin include hair, nails, and sweat and oil glands.
4.
Our _______________ have the thinnest skin; the soles of our _____________ have
the thickest skin. Eyelids/feet 5. Define the following terms:
Epidermis:
The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. This layer, also called the cuticle, is the thinnest layer of skin and forms a protective covering for the body.
Basal cell layer (aka The basal cell layer, also referred to as the stratum germinativum, is the deepest layer of the epidermis. Stratum Germinativum):
Melanocytes:
Melanocytes are special cells that produce a dark skin pigment, 1
called melanin that protects the sensitive cells in the dermis below from the destructive effects of excessive ultraviolet rays of the sun or those from the ultraviolet lamp.
Stratum Spinosum: The spiny layer, also referred to as the stratum granulosum, is just above the basal cell layer. Stratum Granulosum:
The stratum granulosum or granular layer consists of cells that look like distinct granules.
Stratum Lucidum:
The stratum lucidum is the clear, transparent layer just under the skin surface.
Stratum Corneum:
The stratum corneum, or horny layer, is the outer layer of the epidermis.
Keratin:
The corneum is the layer we see when we look at the skin, and the layer treated by the practitioner. Its scale-like cells are continually being shed and replaced by cells coming to the surface from underneath. A fiber protein that is also the principal component of hair and nails.
Dermis:
The dermis is the underlying or inner layer of the skin.
Papillary Layer:
The papillary layer is the outer layer of the dermis, directly beneath the epidermis. Here you will find the dermal papillae, which are small, cone-shaped elevations at the bottom of hair follicles.
Tactile Corpuscles:
Some papillae contain looped capillaries and others contain small structures called tactile corpuscles, with nerve endings that are sensitive to touch and pressure. This layer also contains melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells.
Epidermal Junction: The top of the papillary layer where it joins the epidermis is the epidermal junction.
Reticular Layer:
The reticular layer is the deeper layer of the dermis that supplies the skin with oxygen and nutrients. 2
Subcutaneous Tissue:
Subcutaneous tissue is a fatty layer found below the dermis that some specialists regard as a continuation of the dermis.
Adipose or Subcutis: Subcutaneous Tissue, the fatty tissue, is also called adipose or subcutis tissue, and varies in thickness according to the age, gender, and general health of the individual.
6.
How is the skin nourished? Blood supplies nutrients and oxygen to the skin.
7.
Describe the following nerves of the skin. A. 1.
8.
Motor Nerve Fibers Motor nerve fibers are distributed to the arrector pili muscles attached to the hair follicles.
B. 2. Sensory Nerve Fibers
Sensory nerve fibers react to heat, cold, touch, pressure, and pain. These sensory receptors send messages to the brain.
C. 3. Secretory Nerve Fibers
Sensory nerve fibers are distributed to the sweat and oil glands of the skin.
What does the color of skin depend on? The color of the skin – whether fair, medium, or dark – depends primarily on melanin.
9.
What is collagen? Collagen is a fibrous protein that gives the skin form and strength. This fiber makes up a large portion of the dermis and helps give structural support to the skin by holding together all the structures found in this layer.
10.
What is elastin? Collagen fibers are interwoven with elastin, a protein base similar to collagen that forms elastic tissue. This fiber gives the skin its flexibility and elasticity.
11.
Name the two (2) different types of glands of the skin. The sudoriferous glands or sweat glands, and the sebaceous glands or oil glands.
12.
Explain the function of the sudoriferous glands. The sudoriferous or sweat glands, which excrete sweat from the skin, consist of a coiled base, or secretory oil, and a tube-like duct that ends at the skin surface to form the sweat pore.
13.
What happens when sebum hardens and the duct becomes clogged? A pore impaction, or comedone is formed, which may lead to an acne papule or pustule.
14.
Name the six functions of the skin. 3
1.
Protection
2.
Sensation
3.
Heat regulation
4.
Excretion
5.
Secretion
6.
Absorption
15.
_________________ composes 50-70% of body weight. Water
Chapter 9: Nail Structure & Growth 16. What is the technical term for natural nail? Onyx 17. Describe onyx: the hard protective plate composed mainly of keratin. Keratin in the natural nail is harder then keratin in the skin and hair. The natural nail is located at the end of the finger or toe. It is an appendage of the skin and is part of the integumentary system, which is made up of the skin and its various organs. Nail plates protect the tips of the fingers and toes, and their appearance can reflect the general health of the body. 18. What does a normal, healthy nail look like? Firm, but flexible. The surface is shiny, smooth, and unspotted with no wavy ridges, pits, or splits. A healthy nail also is whitish and translucent in appearance, with the pinkish color of the nail bed below showing through. In some races, the nail bed may have more yellow tones. 19. Explain Specialized Ligaments: ligament (LIG-uh-munt) is a tough band of fibrous tissue that connects bones or holds an organ in place. Specialized ligaments attach the nail bed and matrix bed to the underlying bone. These ligaments are located at the base of the matrix and around the edges of the nail bed. 20. What is the average rate of nail plate growth? In the normal adult is about to (2.5 mm to 3 mm) per month, but many factors affect this growth rate. Age, for example, affects nail growth. Compared with the nails of an average adult, children’s nails grow more rapidly, while elderly adults’ nails grow at a slower rate. Seasons also affect nail growth rate; nails grow faster in the summer than they do in the winter. Pregnancy dramatically affects nail growth because of hormonal changes in the body. Nail growth rates increase dramatically during the last trimester of pregnancy. The nail growth rate decreases quickly after delivery of the baby and returns to normal, as do hormone levels in the body. It is a myth that nail growth rate is increased by 21.
Describe the nail bed. The nail bed is the portion of living skin on which the nail plate sits. Because it is richly supplied with blood vessels, the area under the nail plate has a pinkish appearance in the area that extends from the lunula to the area just before the free edge of the nail. 4
22.
What helps guide the nail plate along the nail bed as it grows. Bed epithelium.
23.
Where is the natural nail formed? The matrix.
24.
25.
The lighter color of the _______________ shows the true color of the matrix. Lunula. Describe the nail plate. The nail plate is the most visible and functional part of the nail module.
26.
What is the free edge of the nail? The free edge is the part of the nail plate that extends over the tip of the finger or toe.
27. 28.
Describe the cuticle. The cuticle is the dead colorless tissue attached to the nail plate. What is the eponychium? The eponychium is the living skin at the base of the nail plate covering the matrix area.
29.
Describe the nail folds and the nail grooves. The nail folds are folds of normal skin that surround the nail plate. These folds form the nail grooves, which are the slits or furrows on the sides of the nail which it moves as it grows.
30. What is Nail Malformations? Nail is abnormal in shape or form it is called nail malformation. This can be a temporary or permanent condition caused by disease, injury, or infection that has affected the matrix. In this case, it can change the shape or thickness of the nail plate and can appear altered or deformed. In fact, these conditions are generally the only reason a person will shed a nail. Healthy nails are not shed automatically or periodically in the way that healthy hair is shed. Ordinarily, replacement of a natural fingernail takes about four to six months. Toenails take about nine months to a year to be fully replaced. Chapter 11: Properties of the Hair & Scalp 31.
What is Trichology? The scientific study of hair, and its diseases and care, is called Trichology.
32.
What is the integument? The hair, skin, and nails are known as the integument, which is the largest and fastest growing organ of the human body.
33.
34.
Describe the hair root and the hair shaft. A mature strand of human hair is divided into two parts: hair root and hair shaft. The hair root is the part of the hair located below the surface of the scalp. The hair shaft is the portion of the hair that projects above the skin. Name and describe the five (5) structures of the hair root. 5
1.
The follicle is the tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalps that contains the hair root. Hair follicles are distributed all over the body, with the exception of the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet.
2.
The hair bulb is the lowest area or part of the hair strand. It is the thickened, clubshaped structure that forms the lower part of the hair root.
3.
The dermal papilla is a small, cone-shaped area located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb. The dermal papilla contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth.
4.
The arrector pili are a tiny, involuntary muscle in the base of the hair follicle. Strong emotions or cold causes it to contract, which makes the hair stand up straight, resulting in “goose bumps�.
35.
Name and describe the three (3) main layers of the hair shaft.
1.
The cuticle is the outermost layer of hair. It consists of an overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells that look like shingles on a roof. The cuticle layer provides a barrier that protects the inner structure of hair as it lies tightly against the cortex. It is responsible for creating the shine and the smooth, silky feel of healthy hair.
2.
The cortex is the middle layer of the hair. It is a fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment. About 90 percent of the total weight of hair comes from the cortex. The elasticity of the hair and its natural color are the result of the unique protein structures located within the cortex.
3.
The medulla is the innermost layer is composed of round cells. It is quite common for very fine and naturally blond hair to entirely lack a medulla.
36.
A __________________, compact cuticle is the hair’s primary defense against damage. Healthy
37.
Where do the changes involving oxidation haircoloring, wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and the chemical hair relaxing all take place? The changes involved in oxidation haircoloring, wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and the chemical hair relaxing all take place in the cuticle.
38.
Hair is composed of ________________ that grows from cells originating within the hair follicle. Protein.
39.
What is the process known as keratinization? As soon as the living cells form, they begin their journey upward through the hair follicle. 6
40.
Is hair living? No. By the time the hair emerges from the scalp, the cells of the hair are completely keratinized and are no longer living.
41.
42.
What are the five (5) main elements that make up human hair? Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur, and are often referred to as the COHNS elements. What are polypeptide chains? The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. These polypeptide chains are cross linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different side bonds.
43. 1.
What are the three (3) different types of side bonds and describe them? Hydrogen bond is a weak physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat.
2.
Salt bond is also a weak, temporary side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions and account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength.
3.
Disulfide bond is a chemical side bond that is very different from the physical bonding of the hydrogen or salt bond.
44.
What are essential to services such as wet sets, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing? Polypeptide chains.
45.
How do permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers change the shape of the hair? Permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers change the shape of hair by chemically changing the hair’s disulfide bonds.
46.
What is melanin? All natural hair color is the result of the pigment located within the cortex, called melanin.
47.
Name and describe the two (2) different types of melanin.
1.
Eumelanin provides brown and black color to hair.
2.
Pheomelanin provides colors ranging from red and ginger to yellow/blond tones.
48.
What is a wave pattern? The wave pattern of the hair refers to the shape of the hair strand, and is described as straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly.
7
49.
What do all successful salon services begin with? All successful salon services must begin with a thorough analysis of the client’s hair type and its present condition in order to determine the results that can be reasonably be expected from the service.
50. Describe hair texture. Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand. Hair texture can be classified as coarse, medium, or fine.
51.
Describe the following terms: Coarse hair texture has the largest diameter. It usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair, and is often more resistant to processing.
Coarse
Medium Medium hair texture is most common, and is the standard to which other hair is compared.
Fine
52.
Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from chemical services than coarse or medium hair.
Describe hair density. Hair density measures the number of hair strands on 1 square inch (2.5 cm) of scalp.
53.
What is hair porosity? Hair porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to penetration. Porous hair has a raised cuticle that easily absorbs moisture.
54.
Describe hair with low porosity. Hair with low porosity is considered resistant. Chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require more alkaline solution than those on hair with high porosity.
55.
Describe hair with average porosity. Hair with average porosity is considered to be normal hair.
56.
Describe hair with high porosity. Hair with high porosity is considered overly porous hair and is often the result of previous overprocessing. Overly porous hair is damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle. Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH, which help prevent additional overprocessing and damage.
57.
Describe hair elasticity. Hair elasticity is the ability to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s elasticity will stretch up to 50% of its original length and return to that same length without breaking. Dry hair stretches about 20% of its length. 8
58.
What happens if hair has a low elasticity? Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. It may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving.
59.
It is important when shaping and styling hair to consider the hair’s ________________ _______________. Growth patterns.
60.
Describe the following growth patterns: A hair stream is hair flowing in the same direction.
Hair Stream
Whorl
A whorl is hair that forms in a circular pattern, as on the crown.
Cowlick
A cowlick is a tuft of hair that stands straight up.
61.
What are the two (2) main types of hair found on the body? The two main types of hair found on the human body are vellus and terminal hair.
62.
Describe vellus or lanugo hair. Vellus or lanugo hair is short, fine, and downy. Bellus hair is not pigmented and almost never has a medulla.
63.
Describe terminal hair. Terminal hair is the long hair found on the scalp, legs, arms, and bodies of males and females.
64.
What are the three (3) growth cycles of hair? Hair growth occurs in cycles. Each complete cycle has three phases that are repeated over and over again throughout life. The three phases are anagen, catagen, and telogen.
65. 1.
Define the three (3) growth cycles of hair. During the anagen or growth phase, new hair is produced.
2.
The catagen phase is the brief transition period between the growth and resting phases of a hair follicle.
3.
The telogen or resting phase is the final phase in the hair cycle and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed.
9
66.
What is the average growth of healthy scalp hair? The average growth of healthy scalp hair is about one half inch (1.25 centimeters) per month.
67.
What percent of scalp hair is growing in the anagen phase? About 90 percent of scalp hair is growing in the anagen phase at any one time.
68.
How long does the anagen phase generally last? The anagen phase generally lasts from three to five years.
69.
How long is hair able to grow? The longer the anagen cycle is, the longer the hair is able to grow.
70.
What happens during the catagen phase? During the catagen phase, the follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla. The hair bulb disappears and the shrunken root end forms a rounded club.
71.
How long does the catagen phase last? The catagen phase is very short and lasts from 1 to 2 weeks.
72.
What percentage of scalp hair is in the telogen phase at any one time? 10%
73.
How long does the telogen phase usually last? The telogen phase lasts for approximately 3 to 6 months.
74.
How often does the entire growth cycle repeat? On average, the entire growth cycle repeats itself once every 4 to 5 years.
75.
What is the average rate of hair loss? The average rate of hair loss is closer to 35 to 40 hairs per day.
76.
What is alopecia? Abnormal hair loss is called alopecia.
77.
Describe androgenic alopecia in men. In men, androgenic alopecia is known as male pattern baldness and usually progresses to the familiar horseshoe-shaped fringe of hair.
78.
What is alopecia areata? Alopecia areata is characterized by the sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots, and may occur on the scalp and elsewhere on the body.
79.
What type of disorder and what causes alopecia areata? Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disorder that causes the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a 10
person’s own immune system, with white blood cells stopping the hair growth (anagen) phase.
80.
What is postpartum alopecia and when does it occur? Postpartum alopecia is temporary hair loss experienced at the conclusion of a pregnancy. For some reason, pregnancy seems to disrupt the normal growth cycle of hair, with very little normal hair loss during pregnancy, but sudden and excessive shedding from 3 to 9 months after delivery.
81.
What are the two (2) products that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and approved by the FDA? Of all treatments that are said to counter hair loss, there are only two products- minoxidil and finasteride-that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA for sale in the United States.
What is canities and what causes it? Canities is the technical term for gray hair. Canities
82.
results from the loss of the hair’s natural melanin pigment.
Name and describe the two (2) types of canities.
83. 1.
Congenital canities exists at or before birth.
2.
Acquired canities develops with age and is the result of genetics. 84.
Describe the following six (6) disorders of the hair.
1.
Ringed Hair:
Ringed hair has a variety of canities, characterized by alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair throughout the length of the hair strand.
2.
Hypertrichosis:
Hypertrichosis or hirsuties is a condition of abnormal growth of hair. It is characterized by the growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that normally grow only vellus hair.
3.
Trichoptilosis:
Trichoptilosis is the technical term for split ends. Trichorrhexis Nodosa or knotted hair is characterized by brittleness and the formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft.
4.
Trichorrhexis Nodosa:
5.
Monilethrix:
6.
Fragilitas crinium: Fragilitas crinium is the technical term for brittle hair. 85.
Monilethrix is the technical term for beaded hair.
What is Pityriasis? Pityriasis is the medical term for dandruff, which is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of the skin cells. 11
What causes dandruff? Dandruff is the result of a fungus called Malassezia.
86. 87.
What is Pityriasis capitis simplex? Pityriasis capitis simplex is the technical term for classic dandruff that is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and an itchy scalp.
88.
What is Pityriasis steatoides? Pityriasis steatoides is a more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp in crusts.
89.
What is tinea? Tinea is the medical term for ringworm.
90.
Is ringworm a parasite? No. Tinea is caused by a fungal organism.
91.
Is ringworm contagious? All forms of tinea are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another.
How do you handle a client that has ringworm? A client with this condition should be
92.
referred to a physician for medical treatment.
What is tinea capitis? Tinea capitis is another type of fungal infection characterized by
93.
red papules, or spots, at the opening of the hair follicles. The patches spread and the hair becomes brittle. Hair often breaks off, leaving only a stump, or may be shed from the enlarged open follicle. 94.
What is tinea favosa? Tinea favosa is characterized by dry, sulfur yellow, cup like crusts on the scalp called scutula, which have a distinctive odor. Scars from tinea favosa are bald patches that may be pink or white or shiny.
95.
What is scabies? Scabies is a highly contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a “mite� that burrows under the skin.
96.
What is pediculosis capitis? Pediculosis capitis is the infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice.
97. 98.
99.
What are staphylococci? Staphylococci are bacteria that infect the skin or scalp. What is a furuncle? A furuncle or boil is an acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain. What is a carbuncle? A carbuncle is an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci. 12
100. What is a bacterial infection? Bacterial infections of the scalp are caused by two strains of bacteria known as staphylococci and streptococci. Most common types of staphylococci infections are furuncles, carbuncles, and folliculitis.
Chapter 15: Shampooing, Rinsing, & Conditioning
101.. What are the challenges associated with more alkaline in shampoo? The more alkaline the shampoo, the stronger and harsher the shampoo. A high pH shampoo can leave the hair dry, brittle, and porous, and cause fading in color-treated hair. A slightly acidic shampoo more closely matches the ideal pH of hair. 102.. Describe the difference between a surfactant and a detergent. They aren’t any. These two terms, surfactant and detergent, mean the same thing: cleansing or “surface active agent”. 103. Describe the surfactant molecule. A surfactant molecule has two ends: a hydrophilic or water attracting “head”, and a lipophilic or oil attracting “tail”. During the shampooing process, the hydrophilic head attracts water, and the lipophilic tail attracts oil. 104. What is “correct” hair brushing? Correct hair brushing stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair spray buildup from the hair; and gives hair added shine. 105. Why is it important to be skilled at selecting the proper shampoo? Using the right homecare products can make all the difference in how your clients’ hair looks, feels, and behaves. It is your job to recommend and educate clients about which products they should be using, as well as how and why. Otherwise, they will make their own uninformed decisions, perhaps buying inferior products at the drugstore or supermarket. The wrong product choice can make a good haircut look bad, can negatively affect the client’s opinion of your work, and can affect the outcome of a chemical service. Remember: You want your clients to look their best so that they become good advertising for you. 106. Explain the PH scale. Understanding pH levels will help you select the proper shampoo for your client. The amount of hydrogen in a solution, which determines whether it is alkaline or acidic, is measured on a pH scale that has a range from 0 to 14. The pH of a neutral solution, one which is neither acidic nor alkaline, is 7. A shampoo that is acidic will have a pH ranging from 0 to 6.9; a shampoo that is alkaline will have a pH 7.1 or higher. The more alkaline the shampoo, the stronger and harsher it is. A high-pH shampoo can leave the hair dry, brittle, and porous. A high-pH shampoo can cause fading in color-treated hair. A slightly acidic shampoo more closely matches the ideal pH of hair. 107. Describe the chemistry of shampoo: To determine which shampoo will leave your client’s hair in the best condition for the intended service, you need to understand the chemical and botanical 13
ingredients regularly found in shampoos. Many shampoos have ingredients in common. It is often the small differences in formulation that make one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition. Water is the main ingredient in most shampoos. Generally it is not just plain water, but purified or deionized water (DEE-eye-on-ized WAH-ter), water that has had impurities, such as calcium and magnesium and other metal ions that would make a product unstable, removed. Water is usually the first ingredient listed, which indicates that the shampoo contains more water than anything else. From there on, ingredients are listed in descending order, according to the percentage of each ingredient in the shampoo. Surfactants The second ingredient that most shampoos have in common is the primary surfactant (or base detergent). Surfactants are cleansing or surface active agents. A surfactant molecule has two ends: a hydrophilic or water-attracting head and a lipophilic or oil-attracting tail. During the shampooing process, the hydrophilic head attracts water and the lipophilic tail attracts oil. This creates a push/pull process that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair. Even shampoos that are marketed as surfactant-free have gentle cleansing agents added to the base. List the 14 different types of shampoo Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment The purpose of a general scalp treatment is to maintain the scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition. A hair or scalp treatment should be recommended only after a hair and scalp examination. Educate the client about any potential scalp and/or hair concerns and involve her in understanding the overall hair benefits of a professional scalp treatment. Encourage the service, however if the client does not wish an immediate treatment, recommend scheduling the treatment for an alternate time. If the client agrees to the treatment, follow all manufacturers’ directions prior to proceeding with the service. ďƒ˜ Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment A dry hair and scalp treatment should be used when there is a deficiency of natural oil on the scalp and hair. Dry scalp can derive from many sources. The elements such as sun, water, and wind can add dryness to the scalp and hair. Chemicals, harsh soaps, and topical products can also contribute to dryness. To address this concern, select scalp preparations containing moisturizing and emollient ingredients. Avoid the use of high-detergent based cleansers, preparations containing a mineral- or oil base, greasy preparations, or lotions with high alcohol content. During a dry hair and scalp treatment, a scalp steamer, which resembles a hooded dryer, can be used to help resolve the moisture balance in the hair. Through the use of steam, water and treatment are delivered into the cuticle layer of the hair and scalp. Chapter 18: Braiding & Braid Extensions 14
108. What is a coil of hair? Regarding the wave pattern, a coil is a very tight curl. It is spiral in formation and, when length or stretched, resembles a series of loops. Textured hair has a tight coil pattern. 109.
In addition to texture, consider the following when braiding a client’s hair:
Density. Look for areas where the hair is thin.
Condition. Check for damage and breakage from previous braids or chemical services.
Length. Make sure that hair is physically long enough to execute the braiding style.
Check the condition of the scalp to ensure that it is healthy and properly cared for. 110.
1.
Name and describe the six (6) materials for hair extensions.
Human hair. Human hair is the gold standard for hair extensions.
2.
Kanekalon. A manufactured synthetic fiber of excellent quality, Kanekalon has a texture similar to extremely coily or coiled hair types. It does not reflect light, which means it has less shine, but it comes in a variety of colors and is versatile and easy to match with natural hair colors.
3.
Nylon or rayon synthetic. This product is less expensive than Kanekalon and is available in varying qualities. It reflects light and leaves the hair very shiny. A drawback of nylon and rayon is that both of these fibers have been known to cut or break the hair.
4.
Yarn. Traditional yarn used to make sweaters and hats is now being used to adorn hair.
5.
Lin. This beautiful wool fiber imported from Africa has a matte finish and comes only in black or brown.
6.
Yak. This strong fiber comes from the domestic ox found in the mountains of Tibet and Central Asia.
111.
Describe the following braids: Visible Braid:
Invisible Braid or Inverted Braid
A visible braid is a three-strand braid that employs the underhand technique in which strands of hair5 are woven under the center strand. An invisible braid or inverted braid, also a three-strand braid, is produced by overlapping the strands of hair on top of each other.
15
112. Describe the partings or subsections of single braids. The partings or subsections for single braids can be square, triangular, or rectangular. The parting determines where the braid is placed, and how it moves. 113. What are cornrows? The fundamentals of braiding start with the classic cornrow technique. Cornrows, also called canerows, are narrow rows of visible braids that lie close to the scalp. 114. How long can cornrows last? The flat contoured styles can last several weeks applied without extensions, and up to 2 months when applied with extensions. 115. Explain the “feed-in” method for cornrows with extensions. Extensions can be applied to cornrows or individual braids with the feed-in method. In this method, the braid is built up strand by strand. Excess amounts of extension material can place too much weight on the fragile areas of the hairline and will tighten and pull the hair to leave an unrealistic finished look.
What is the ultimate in natural hair care? The ultimate in natural hair care is the textured richness offered by hair locking. Locks, also called dreadlocks, are natural textured hair that is intertwined and meshed together to form a single or separate network of hair.
116.
117. What are the three basic methods of locking? The comb technique, the palm roll, and braids or extensions.
Weaving 118. Hair extensions are hair additions that are secured to the base of the client’s natural hair in order to add length, volume, texture, or color. Extensions can be human hair, synthetic hair, or a blend of the two. They are either wefts of hair or strands (small bundles of hair); the latter are attached one-by-one and are usually pre-bonded or keratin-tipped. Unless they are clip-in extensions, they are applied with semipermanent attachment methods.
119. General guidelines to keep in mind with hair extensions Start by deciding whether you are adding length, thickness, or both. Know which final style you are striving to achieve, and map it out. Sketch or visualize a placement pattern. As a general rule of thumb, stay 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) away from the hairline at the front, sides, and nape, and 1 inch away from the part. With very thin hair, you must be careful that the base does not show through. Curly hair tends to expand and can give the illusion of being thicker than it really is. When working with curly hair, you will need to
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determine whether you are matching the curl or whether you wish to add another curl pattern to the hair. Straight, thin hair and curly, thin hair may have similar density, but curly hair will appear thicker. This means you may not need to put as many extensions in curly hair as in straight hair. As you now know, there are many different ways to attach hair additions. When it comes to extensions, methods include braid-andsew, simple bonding (also known as fusion bonding), linking, and tube shrinking. The most important professional approaches to hair addition and extension services should be practiced—always in the following order: 1. Safety for the client’s own hair. 2. Comfort—there should be no pulling or pinching; avoid excess tension on the natural hair. 3. Security—Make certain the additions will not fall off. If they are attached with a semi permanent method such as braid-and-sew, bonding, or fusion bonding, be certain that they will last several weeks before they are removed or require readjustment to accommodate the natural hair’s growth. 4. Style and fashion. 120. How do you achieve a natural look with hair extensions? In order to achieve a natural look, it is crucial that you blend the client’s hair with the hairpiece. You must match both the color and the wave pattern. If the client has naturally wavy hair, it is wise to find a hairpiece with a wave pattern that matches the client’s. To match the color, use the color ring. Most hairpieces come in many colors, so it is relatively easy to match to the client’s hair. You cannot color a synthetic hairpiece, so any custom coloring to achieve a match must be performed on the client’s hair. 121. What is the braid-and-sew method, Hair extensions are secured to the client’s own hair by sewing braids or a weft onto an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow, which is sometimes called the track. The wefts can also be attached by creating a track, using fiber filler. The filler and hair from the scalp are braided together, using an underhand braiding technique. The filler helps grip the client’s own hair and creates a longer-lasting braid, to which you attach the weft. The angle of the track determines how the hair will fall. You may position braids or tracks horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or along curved lines that follow the contours of the head. The braid-and-sew method can also be used to attach hairpieces. Partings are determined according to the style you have chosen. The size of the sections is determined by the amount of hair that will be added to the head. Plan the tracks or braids so that the ends will be hidden. It is best to position them 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) behind the hairline to ensure proper coverage. 17
122. What do you use when sewing on the extension? use only a blunt, custom-designed needle, either straight or curved. These blunt ends will help avoid damage to the hair and will protect you and the client as well. Extensions can be sewn to the track using a variety of stitches. 123. Describe the different types of stitches 1. Lock stitch -- A sewing technique used with a curved needle and thread to sew on a weft of hair to a braided cornrow track. This stitch can also be used over the entire length of the track in evenly spaced stitches 2. Overcast stitch -- This simple, quick stitch can be used to secure the entire length of the weft to the track. Pass the needle under both the track and the weft, and then bring it back over to make a new stitch. Moving along the track, repeat the stitch until you reach the end of the track. Complete with a lock stitch for security. 3. Double-lock stitch. This stitch is much like the lock stitch, but the thread is wound around the needle twice to create the double lock. It is used in the same ways as the lock stitch.
Advantages
Advantages of the braid-and-sew method include the fact that, if done correctly, it is a very safe technique
The braid-and-sew attachment method requires no special equipment, and, with practice, you can do it fairly quickly.
Disadvantages Drawbacks include, if there is too much tension on the braid, the client’s real hair can be damaged. Also, the braid-and-sew attachment method is not appropriate for clients who have extremely damaged hair, clients who have baby-fine hair (because breakage can occur), or clients who don’t keep their scalps clean.
124. Describe bonding method: attaching hair extensions, hair wefts or single strands are attached with an adhesive or bonding agent.
125. How long should the natural hair be before bonding? At least 4 inches 126. How long does bonding last? 2 to 4 weeks depending on factors such as the frequency of shampooing, the oiliness or dryness of the scalp, and the quality of the products used. This means that the client will need to be on a maintenance program that requires salon visits as often as every two weeks.
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127. How are bonds removed? By dissolving the adhesive bond with oil, or bond remover. The same technique can be used with loose hair or wefts that are cut into very small sections. This is called strand bonding. 128. Advantages Two advantages of bonding are that it can be offered at a very
affordable price and the service does not take much longer than the average haircut appointment. Also, the client can shampoo with the wefts in, as long as it is done gently. Disadvantages One drawback of bonding is that some clients may have an
allergic reaction to the ingredients in the bonding adhesive. Always perform a patch test prior to the application of bonded extensions, especially when using a latex-based adhesive. Also, bonding is not appropriate for clients who have severely damaged hair or those who do not have enough natural hair to hide the wefts. The wefts cannot be exposed to oils or they will slide off. In general, bonding should not be used to attach wefts that are longer than 12 inches (30 centimeters) to avoid excessive heaviness and the possibility of pulling on the client’s natural hair and scalp. Fusion-bonding
Method of attaching extensions,
Individual extension hair is bonded to the client’s own hair with a bonding material that is activated by the heat from a special tool.
This method, while expensive and extremely time-consuming, harmonizes with the client’s natural hair with no uncomfortable or unattractive attachment sites.
The bonds are light and comfortable to wear, the hair moves like real hair, and the hair is easy to maintain.
The attachment lasts up to four months, almost twice as long as other methods.
Removal is quick and painless. The fusion method requires certification training because it is manufacturer specific. Some fusion-bonding procedures involve wrapping a keratin-based strip around both the client’s hair and the extension or applying the bond to the extension first with a special gunapplicator. Today, many of the extensions or addition strands are pre-tipped or keratin19
tipped. In fusion bonding, natural strands along a parting are selected and then isolated with a hair shield
Advantages One advantage of fusion bonding is that the client’s hair will dry more
quickly than when bonding full wefts because there is less bulk. By using extensions in slightly different colors, you can create the illusion of depth and dimension or a highlighted effect. This method also allows for styling versatility.
Disadvantages Drawbacks include the fact that the technique is time-consuming. The pre-tipped extensions are expensive. Some suppliers will take
back the extension hair and re-tip it, which saves costs and reduces waste; others will not. Applying the adhesive or bonding material yourself avoids this issue, but can be messier and even more timeconsuming.
In linking,
a hook is used to pick up a small amount of hair off a parting. A link is slid on close to the scalp with a special tool.
Then an extension or special addition strand is inserted into the link.
Once the extension and the natural hair are captured in the link,
the link is pinched flat with pliers.
Once removed properly with a removal tool (pliers),
the extensions can be reused.
To use a linking method of attachment, the natural hair should be at least 5 inches long.
Advantages Linking offers styling versatility The integrity of the natural hair can be maintained if the procedure is
done properly. 20
Disadvantages Drawbacks are that this method is expensive and time-consuming. Also, the metal links can oxidize (rust).
Tube Shrinking
In tube shrinking, the client’s hair and the addition strand are inserted into a tube, Which is then heated to shrink it, this method requires special tools and training. As with all semi permanent attachment methods for hair extensions, various problems can arise. Usually, these problems are caused by the stylist or the client and not the material. Stylists must follow a logical placement pattern carefully, pay attention to natural growth patterns, and provide complete home-care instructions. Clients must follow home-care instructions carefully to keep the hair neat and clean. They must also return to the salon regularly for maintenance.
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