Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth by Chloe Taylor

A creative marketing strategy for H&M Conscious to encourage the fast fashion consumer to make a difference

Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth By Chloe Taylor

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Introduction Aims & Objectves Methodology Key Insights Consumer On Trend The Big Idea The Big Creative Idea Visual Inspiration Zoe Austin Photo Shoot Guilt Free Product Campaign Launch Campaign Promotion Campaign Timeline Idea Evaluation Conclusion References List Of Illustrations Bibliography Appendices

Contents 4

Introduction Although sustainability has been a contentious issue for a number of years now, the 2013 Bangladesh Rana Plaza disaster exposed the severity of how tainted the world of fashion that we immerse ourselves in really is. Killing 1,133 (Hammadi, 2014) and injuring 2,500 (BBC.co.uk, 2013), this devastating incident made myself and many other fast fashion consumers sit up and take notice. Ethical fashion campaigns have existed for many years, but now more than ever, sustainability and ethics within fashion and lifestyle, are climbing the ladder of importance.

People are also becoming increasingly aware of the ethical impact of their everyday lives. They are encouraged to think about – and take responsibility for – the ethical status of the things they do, buy and support. (Barkworth, 2014) Brands and celebrities are not shy of this and use their high profile status to make a difference. Pharrell Williams is the latest celebrity to join longtime activist Vivienne Westwood, who recently took a shower in public for PETA (Guardian.com, 2014), in taking action to battle the environmental and social issues our planet currently faces. Owner of sustainable brand Bionic Yarn, Pharrell is due to launch a 100% recycled denim line with G-Star RAW, made completely from recycled plastic litter hauled from the ocean. (See Appendix 6)

In the words of Pharrell, “We vacation by the oceans. We bathe in the oceans. We eat from the oceans. But very few of us think of the ocean beyond what we want from it. The oceans need us now. (Mygoodness.com, 2014) Pharrell’s reflection in the above quote is undeniably true and may make his following think differently about the way that they consume. His thought process offers a view with more depth, I can assume that when you’re eating fish or you’re swimming in the ocean on holiday, the consequences don’t cross your mind, they certainly don’t for me, and this is perhaps where the problem lies – we indeed don’t think beyond our own needs.

Fig 1: H&M Conscious Foundation, 2014

Alongside these two philanthropic celebrities, are brands LUSH Cosmetics, Nudie Jeans and Patagonia but the brand that surprised me most in its efforts for a more sustainable fashion industry, is one of the key fast fashion players, H&M. In H&M launched non-profit organisation, H&M Conscious Foundation. The foundation’s mission is to ‘reach beyond H&M’s value chain and contribute to positive long-term change for people and communities.’ (HM.com, 2014) The foundation’s three main focus areas are education, clean water and strengthening women, which were chosen by H&M customers and staff through an online voting system in October

2013. (HM.com, 2014) April 2014 marked the fourth H&M Conscious collection; an array of trend-led designs created using recycled and ethical materials for consumers to purchase in stores worldwide. 2013 seen the launch of the brand’s garment collecting initiative where consumers can take a bag of any branded clothing in any condition to their local H&M store in exchange for a £5 off voucher. While H&M has been criticized for its sustainability efforts; it has been said that the garment collecting initiative encourages its customers to consume more, it’s more than any other fast fashion brand is doing at the moment, and that’s enough for me – for now. It must be commended that for every kilogram of clothing collected, H&M donates €0,02 to a local charity, that is a daily donation of €93.558 (£155.83) worldwide and £7.03 to UK charity, British Red Cross (HM.charitystar.com, 2014) These are only some of the efforts that H&M Conscious makes and it must be said that the fast fashion giant is leading by example in a cause that all brands should be committing to in a modern day society. My decision to explore H&M Conscious and how beneficial it really is came from working in the Nottingham city centre branch every weekend for the past year. I have come across many customers who had no idea that H&M Conscious existed, and who have curiously probed me about the garment collecting initiative. While H&M can be highly commended for its efforts as a business, are consumers really aware of what the brand is doing to be more environmentally and socially responsible? More importantly, do they care? Because ultimately, it is the fast fashion consumer who could really make a change for the fashion industry if they put their mind to it.

Consumers, retailers, designers and brands have a responsibility to the workers who make our fashion, but we’ve closed our eyes to a back-story of exploitation and dangerous conditions. Every single one of our wardrobes is tainted. (Siegle, 2011) In Lucy Siegle’s book, To Die For, the above quote summarises her exploration of how the fashion industry is failing garment workers and our planet, and opens up our eyes to what is really happening. Highlighting key problems with sustainability in an industry we so cherish, she discusses ways in which to better our planet through fashion.

Fig 2: Pharrell Williams at RAW For The Oceans Launch Event, 2014 6

This report explores the ways that H&M Conscious can creatively enhance its consumer awareness as well as how it can encourage its customers to take part in the business’ endeavors to make change. With a globally renowned brand like H&M attempting to achieve a more sustainable industry, hopefully the consumption fanatic fast fashion consumer will adjust their habits.

Methodology Secondary Research

Aims & Objectives

After establishing the idea for this report, I thought it best to first do some background research into sustainable fashion as well as marketing communications and theory. Firstly, I set up Google Alerts to inform me daily of timely news, events and happenings in relation to sustainable fashion. I also regularly searched the Internet myself for key articles on the topic as well as using Flipboard – a useful app in narrowing the Internet by subject area, I then collated them into Instapaper.com to help me break down and organize my findings. To add to my secondary research, I read an array of books and journals to inform my research further. Marketing Fashion by Harriet Posner, To Die For by Lucy Siegle and Overdressed by Elizabeth L. Cline were instrumental to my research and the writing of this project, opening my mind to new ideas, theories and strategies.

Primary Research Following on from my secondary research, I used a range of primary research methods to gain an in-depth understanding of the H&M Consumer and their knowledge of sustainable fashion. I carried out two surveys, a set of more extensive interviews with sixteen regular H&M customers and an anonymous ballot, which I set up in Antenna Media Centre, a business centre in Nottingham. Furthermore, I set up a Twitter account to engage with people online and find out their thoughts and views on sustainable fashion. The first of my surveys was an initial survey with two questions, I first asked if participants had heard of H&M Conscious and secondly, whether they had ever donated to it. I used the snowballing sampling method (Davies, 2007) to try and reach as many people as possible. Although this method can be flawed in terms of the range of people that are reachable, I asked certain people that I knew of different ages and genders to share the survey in the hope that it would not only reach a larger audience, but a wider one, too. I shared my survey via email, Linkedin, Facebook and Twitter, using the hashtag function to make my survey findable. Overall, this survey had sixty-two respondents, giving me a good

insight into H&M Conscious’ awareness as well as the contribution level. Do You Donate?’ the second survey I used was originally carried out for another sustainable project I completed last year. I re-shared it through the same mediums as my initial survey in order to get more up to date responses. Although the questions in ‘Do You Donate?’ were not directly tailored to my H&M Conscious project, they still added value to the content of this report as it demonstrated to me how charitable people were in the way of donating clothing and also their knowledge of fast fashion – two important insights that informed my target audience. In total, 51 people completed the ‘Do You Donate?’ survey, enabling me to gauge people’s values and perceptions of charity and fast fashion. In interviewing sixteen regular H&M customers, I was able to find out not only their knowledge - if any at all - on H&M Conscious, but also their consumption habits and the touch points in which H&M was currently reaching them, providing insights that informed the creative outcomes featured in this report. Creating an anonymous ballot at Antenna Media Centre enabled me to reach a set of people outside of the student body, I left a box and some answer cards in Antenna’s reception and posed the question ‘What do you think of when you think of sustainable fashion?’ It was interesting to find out people’s lack of knowledge and awareness of the phrase ‘sustainable fashion’ compared to when asked about ‘fast fashion’. I felt this method of research allowed me to test how people responded to certain language as well as reaching a wider audience. My last piece of primary research, creating a Twitter account specifically for my project, allowed me to connect with people who already had sustainable fashion on their radar. Creating a separate Twitter account from my own, allowed me to remove myself from the equation in the hope that people could speak more honestly and in no way contrived. The quantity of responses that I received was quite low but the quality of the tweets that I did get was high, which was of more importance in the needs of my research.

Aim

Raise awareness of the H&M Conscious Foundation and encourage H&M consumers to consider the impact of their consumption habits and shop more responsibly through contributing to H&M Conscious.

Objectives

Create a clever but accessible campaign that will allow consumers to be fully engaged with H&M Conscious. Use education as a basis to help people understand the importance of sustainability in the fashion industry. Develop an initiative that will enable consumers to shop more responsibly without completely transforming their lifestyles.

Key Insights Through my primary research stated in the methodology, my research concluded two key problems.

* People aren’t contributing to H&M Conscious despite having heard of it.

Fig 4: Infographic for ‘H&M Conscious Initial Survey’ results, 2014

Approximately 40% of 62 people surveyed had heard of H&M Conscious but had never contributed.

* Approximately 60% of people surveyed had never heard of the foundation, alongside almost half of the H&M consumers interviewed. It is worrying that seven out of the sixteen people I interviewed that are regular H&M customers had never heard of the H&M Conscious Foundation, demonstrating that H&M are not doing enough to motivate consumer awareness, as well as illustrating that H&M consumers are not actively looking to alter their fast fashion shopping habits. 22 out of 62 participants of my ‘H&M Conscious Initial Survey’ (see fig. 4) stated that they had heard of the initiative but had never contributed to it. It is great that the brand is contributing to a vital cause but if its consumers are not following suit, is H&M doing enough to make it work? When interviewing the 16 H&M consumers, I asked them if they hadn’t contributed to H&M Conscious, what were their reasons for this? Apart from the obvious answer that 7 of them had never heard of it (see fig. 5), the responses I received were that they didn’t know enough about the initiative or the styles in the H&M Conscious Collection did not appeal to them. It is clear that H&M needs to do more to educate its customer base on the Conscious Foundation and why it is important.

Fig 5: Infographic for H&M consumer interview results, 2014

Almost half of H&M Conscumers interviewed had never heard of H&M Conscious.

Fig 3: H&M Conscious Collection, 2013

The are not brand loyal and shop at 4 to 6 stores on average

Consumer “A group of fashionable and trendy consumers who see shopping as a social activity providing pleasure in their daily life” (Yuval, 2011)

They browse the internet, read fashion magazines, use social media and even sometimes have blogs Fig 6: Consumer profile, 2014

H&M Core Consumer

A combination of primary, observational and secondary research allowed me to pinpoint H&M’s core consumer. This has enabled me to learn more about the type of person my creative outcomes need to appeal to. As H&M is a brand with a mass audience, turning over 150 billion SEK in 2013, approximately £1.4 billion, it would be difficult to target a niche topic to such a vast amount of consumers. With H&M’s core consumer in mind, I have created my target consumer, conclusive of primary and secondary research as well as key insights.

Target Consumer

In her book Marketing Fashion, Harriet Posner discusses a new consumer archetype, Generation G. G for generosity, people reacting against greed. Growing online culture allows them to share, give, engage, create and collaborate. Think clothes swapping, skill sharing, freecycling or random acts of kindness. (Posner, 2011)

Female, aged 15 and 25 – “The company recognises that the most profitable & popular segmant within this market lies in females aged between 15 and 25” (Mszabarkiewicz, 2012)

the idea of doing something for a greater cause, implying they would be more likely to adapt to sustainable fashion with ease. My ‘Do You Donate?’ survey demonstrated that 19 out of 35 females who completed it were aged 20 – 30, fitting in with H&M’s core consumer age, and they donated clothes to charity, implying that being charitable, they are more likely to want to contribute to a sustainable fashion cause. What’s more, Posner states, ‘the trick is to keep an eye out for innovators and early adopters; they are likely to be ahead of the curve.’ (2011) In the context of Roger’s Diffusion of Innovation Curve, I plan to target the early majority. As H&M is a high street chain, I believe that innovators and early adopters will be already far ahead of what H&M are doing. However, I would still like to target those who fall into the early majority, in the hope that targeting them will create a behaviour trend within H&M, encouraging the late majority and laggards to follow.

Focusing on this niche of consumers within H&M’s core consumer would be more beneficial than targeting a mass audience as they are open to 12

Fig 7: Lush Cosmetics charity pot, 2012

On Trend Fig 8: Nudie Jeans rug, 2014

Stylus depicts 2014 as ‘Ethical Fashion’s Year’. (Stylus.com, 2014) Described as the ‘deadliest catastrophe in the history of the garment industry’ (Siegle, 2013), the Rana Plaza disaster marked a tipping point in which consumers have demanded more transparency in the supply chain of the high street, putting pressure on brands to clean up their act and do business ethically. Trendwatching.com predicts ‘GUILT-FREE STATUS will be the ultimate indulgence in 2014. Time to create products and services that deliver a guilt-free status fix.’ (2013), and breaks the trend into three key areas, ‘Known By All’, ‘Visibly Guilt-Free’ and ‘Storied’. ‘Known By All’ foresees that iconic guilt-free products, such as the Tesla S car, will act as an instantly recognisable signal of sustainability. Sustainable fashion enthusiast, Will.I.Am drives a Tesla S due to its eco-friendly status, furthering his efforts beyond his brand Ekocycle, a clothing line made from recycled yarn, into his personal life. (Joanna Lumley Meets Will.I.Am, 2014) ‘Visibly Guilt-Free’ discusses Trendwatching.com’s prediction that chic or fashionable products that are visibly sustainable or ethical will be huge in 2014. Nudie Jeans’ denim rug (see fig. 8) made from recycled jeans (see appendix 4) is leading this part of the trend along with Liberty United’s firearm jewelry, which is made from decommissioned guns and bullets. ‘Storied’ expresses that if a product is not visibly guilt-free, it should have a back-story that consumers can share with others. ASOS Buyer, Claire Hamer states ‘When it comes to selling ethical fashion, there is huge value in telling the story behind the product.’ (Minney, 2011) Following this Guilt-Free trend is natural and ethical brand, LUSH Cosmetics. LUSH created the ‘Charity Pot’ product (see fig. 7) in order to support grassroots organisations, 100% of the proceeds for this product go to charity. (See appendix 4) Additionally, my primary research through Twitter and Instagram shows there is a hunger for sustainable fashion. When conversing with followers on my sustainable fashion account, they responded with things like

‘sustainability is the future of fashion’ and ‘it’s a great idea and I would not mind paying extra for it… I would love to see some big high street companies combine style with sustainability’, (see appendix 14) validating that there is a demand for eco fashion. Sustainable fashion also caused a stir at February’s London Fashion Week. CNBC.com reported that in 2005, less than 5% of the shows at LFW were sustainable fashion brands, but at February’s 2013 LFW, a third of the shows were eco-focused. (Kharpal, 2013) This is a triumph for the sustainable fashion sector. The growth in eco-focused fashion at LFW illustrates that designers are giving sustainability and ethical fashion the time that it has been crying out for, for many years. This increase between 2005 and 2013 demonstrates a growing hunger for eco fashion and is an optimistic inkling as to where the future is heading. However, Guardian.com quoted Yvan Rodic expressing that ‘it’s good for a designer to have something eco-friendly in their collection’, (Borromeo, 2013) whilst this quote seems positive on the surface, it implies that having something ethical in a designer’s collection is good for their reputation and not about a true interest in the cause. Furthermore, it is no secret that taking on a colossal business like fast fashion will be a huge hurdle in eco fashion’s journey. Nevertheless, the 2012 Ethical Consumer Market Report stated that the sustainable fashion market was worth £150 million in 2011, a mere fraction of the British fashion industry’s total £21 billion value, but a soaring increase on the tiny £5 million that it was worth in 2000. (Kharpal, 2013) The incredible growth in economic value supports the notion that the consideration and importance of sustainable fashion is on the rise.

Fig 9: Eco Trend Moodboard, 2014 16

Big Creative Idea To achieve bringing fashion back down to earth, I created a SWOT on H&M as a business to decide what opportunities there are for H&M Conscious to grab. I have taken into consideration the information from my SWOT Analysis of H&M in order to develop appropriate and timely outcomes for both the brand and consumer. To form the ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’ campaign, I will incorporate H&M’s existing garment collecting initiative to give it a larger platform and therefore more recognition and wider awareness. The campaign will also consist of a guilt-free product, following the trend discussed earlier in this report, a launch event and appropriate advertising for the consumer, i.e. online and the in-store H&M magazine. All of these components will work in tandem to create a campaign that will make the attraction and attention that H&M Conscious needs to reach its goals successfully.

Strengths

Weaknesses

H&M is owned outright by the Persson family; there are no shareholders or investors

It is difficult to change a brand’s reputation and people still see H&M as a ‘fast fashion’ brand with negative connotations

With 3,100 stores in 53 markets, the brand is globally renowned

H&M have a bad reputation for fit inconsistency due to using 800 different suppliers

“Sustainability is an integral part of H&M’s operations” – As the brand has the ‘fast fashion’ tag attached to it’s name, they are changing this perception through working towards sustainability and working with charities, they were the first brand to open up their suppliers list to the public – H&M Conscious Worked a lot with celebrities, past celebrity collaborations have sold out in hours and are in very high demand, good endorsement and promotion for the brand

Big Idea The big idea is to ‘bring fashion back down to earth’, a campaign to create awareness of and contribution to H&M Conscious. I first thought of this phrase after reading H&M’s current taglines, ‘don’t let fashion go to waste’ and ‘long live fashion’. I started thinking of everyday sayings and idioms for inspiration and came up with five different phrases: A little goes a long way Don’t let fashion go down the drain Putting the conscious in consumer Putting the act in impact Bring fashion back down to earth I feel that ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’ has more depth than just a tagline; it is about reconnecting fashion with our planet and making consumers face reality and persuading them to be more realistic, i.e. encouraging them to think about the impact that their consumption has on our earth, natural resources and people.

Products are seen as cheap in terms of quality People are aware of the H&M conscious foundation but are not contributing to it Online shopping has a bad reputation for lack of variety and very long delivery times

H&M have great prices for their target consumer base Global market leader Strong presence in multiple markets – wide audience reach

Opportunities

Threats

Could use the H&M website more effectively to reach target consumers more conveniently for them

Promoting H&M Conscious too much would stifle their core collection sales, the brand is still a commercial business – have the get the right balance

Improve online service Celebrity collaboration is an opportunity for H&M Conscious to raise awareness and encourage people to contribute to H&M Conscious Foundation There is opportunity to change the connotations of being a ‘fast fashion’ brand through H&M Conscious Foundation, losing the negativity attached to the phrase, and making a conscious effort to solve issues within fashion

People have negative connotations of the phrase ‘sustainable fashion’ and just don’t care enough to make shopping more responsibly a priority, investing in promotion for H&M Conscious is risky as it may not be as effective as I would like it to be Working towards being fully sustainable may affect lead times and therefore affect H&M’s ability to meet consumer demand for ever-changing trends and products in a short period of time Competitors: Zara, Forever 21, Primark

Could introduce a product specifically to make money for H&M Conscious. Fig 10: H&M SWOT Analysis, 2014 18

Brand Values - Believe in people - One team - Straightforward & Open-minded - Cost consciousness - Quality is key - Sustainability is integral

Brand in Action - Celebrity Endorsement/Collaboration - Variety of ranges for a wide range of consumers - H&M Conscious Foundation efforts - Variety of colour and patterns in a certain style - H&M Loves Music campaign - Quick design turnaround with regular input of new products & designs to meet trends - Branding is fun & laid back - approachable to the consumer - Regular offers in partnership with magazines, i.e. Glamour/Grazia - Conversational language & online presence

Brand Personality - Trend-focused - Fun - Stylish - Popular - Creative - Easy-going - Approachable - Responsible - Upbeat - Diverse/Variable

Brand Essence - â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fashion & quality at the best priceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (HM.com, 2014)

Fig 11: Brand Onion Model, 2014. 20

Brand Onion

bring fashion back down to earth Fig 12: Initial Moodboard, 2014 22

Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth

Initial Mood Board

Fig 13: Visual Inspiration Moodboard, 2014 24

Visual Inspiration

Typography

Fig 14: Typography Moodboard, 2014 26

Design Inspiration

Fig 15: Design Inspiration Moodboard, 2014 28

Zoe Austin

I have also taken inspiration from photography-collage artist, Zoe Austin. I think the use of collage over image brings the photograph to life and adds an extra level of depth, creating further engagement for the viewer. The use of floral collage fits in well with the current eco trend as well as the SS14 botanical and tropical flower trend seen in fashion, connecting fashion and earth, the overall aim of my big idea.

Fig 16: Visual Reference Moodboard, 2014 30

Fig 18: Alex Box Make Up Artist, 2014

Fig 19: ‘Chemistry’ by Craig Tracy, 2012 Fig 20: ‘Beautiful Monster’ by Paco Peregrin, 2011’

Photo Shoot

Taking inspiration from my campaign promotion mood board, I collaborated with a make up and prosthetics artist to create a look that represents our planet (pictured on left page). I wanted to produce something highly visual and intriguing in order to catch the consumer’s eye. The make up in these images connects us as humans with the earth, therefore visualising my big idea; ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’. The close up shots show the texture within the make up, creating another level to the photographs and bringing them to life. To create this look, I took references from make up artists Alex Box, Paco Peregrin and Craig Tracy. Make up artist: Roz Hodson

Fig 17: Initial images for magazine advetisement, 2014 32

Guilt-free Product H&M has become well known for collaborating with high profile designers and celebrities such as Karl Lagerfeld, Isabel Marrant and Stella McCartney, bringing high fashion products at affordable prices to its consumer base. From my own experience of working for H&M, these one off collections are highly sought after and sell out in days, sometimes hours, proving highly influential. Supplementing the theory that celebrity endorsement is hugely powerful in persuading consumers is that of the book, Mastering Fashion Marketing: The increasing social importance and visibility of celebrities has resulted in their dress style and fashion sense being keenly watched and analysed by an increasing interested public. Celebrities, or celebrity look-alikes, are now replacing anonymous models in fashion adverts. (Jackson & Shaw, 2009) Therefore, to tie in with H&M’s current marketing strategies, I am proposing another celebrity collaboration, albeit slightly different to the previous ones. I have chosen to create a smaller collaboration, specifically for the H&M Conscious Foundation with Vivienne Westwood. Famous for her activism for climate change and unexpected quotes like ‘we just consume far too much. I’m talking about all this disposable crap. What I’m saying is buy less, choose well.’ (Ounodesign.com, 2012) Westwood seemed like the ideal designer to collaborate with in order to raise awareness and educate the consumer on H&M conscious and sustainable fashion due to her continuous hard work for climate change, human rights and animal testing.

Fig 21: Lush Cosmetics Little Green Bag, 2014

Reading upon LUSH Cosmetic’s efforts to be sustainable (see appendix 1), I found its philosophy on packaging made great sense: LUSH is one of the few retailers that don’t use plastic carrier bags—we use 100% recycled paper bags for customers that need them. But of course, paper bags aren’t the answer either—what’s really needed is for customers to get into the habit of carrying reusable canvas bags wherever they go. (LUSHusa.com, 2014)

This idea could be criticised for a couple of reasons. Firstly, similarly to H&M’s garment collecting initiative, this campaign may be said to be encouraging people to shop more and secondly, it decreases advertising for the brand. The carrier bag is a highly visual symbol of a brand. This simple item is often overlooked as a marketing tool but just think about it – every time a customer leaves a store carrying their purchases in a distinctive and recognisable carrier bag, they become a walking advertisement for the brand. (Posner, 2011) However, the canvas bag will still be H&M branded, creating curiosity around the collaboration and the campaign, encouraging more shoppers to take interest and find out what the brand is doing. What’s more is that while H&M might be criticised for creating a points system for consumers to spend in-store, they have still bought into something charitable and committed to a pledge to stop using plastic bags. A small action that is easy for the consumer that could still have a big impact on reducing damage to our planet. In an ideal sustainable world, consumers would not consume but in a modern day society where fast fashion has taken over, consumption has become unavoidable and it is incredibly difficult to change consumer habits. So the canvas bag is a reaction to a somewhat unsolvable problem; if consumers are not going to stop consuming, it is better to encourage them to do it more responsibly than to do nothing at all – at least the topic of sustainable fashion is now on their radar and by buying a canvas bag, they are contributing to the H&M Conscious Initiative and gaining something they love and can enjoy.

Most consumers use plastic bags for around an hour, but it takes one thousand years for them to decompose into the environment (LUSHusa. com, 2014), that is approximately twelve times the average lifespan of a person living in the UK (Official Office for National Statistics, 2010) and 876,581,000 (876.5 million) times more than the single hour most consumers use them for, which is completely nonsensical. The result of the collaboration between Vivienne Westwood and H&M Conscious will be a canvas bag to encourage shoppers to substitute the use of plastic or paper bags. The bag will be on-trend and with Vivienne Westwood-esque design to hopefully create something people love as well as an answer to the problem for consumers who love Vivienne Westwood but cannot afford to shop in her stores. The added bonus to this product is that 100% of the proceeds, excluding VAT will go to the H&M Conscious Foundation and each time consumers use the bag whilst shopping in store, they will receive points to spend in store on a loyalty card system, much like Tesco Clubcard or Nectar Card, hopefully encourage shoppers to use their canvas bags rather than using plastic bags unnecessarily. As the bag is limited edition and designed by Vivienne Westwood, the bag will be at a higher price point than usual small-ticket items in H&M, due to the bag being for charity and being made ethically with sustainable materials. Fig 22: Vivienne Westwood for Save the Arctic, 2013 34

Typography Development

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood Fig 23: Font development for Vivienne Westwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collaboration logo, 2014

Fig 24: Canvas Bag Design Development, 2014

Design Development

Design Development Fig 25: Canvas Bag Design Development, 2014 38

Fig 26: Canvas Bag Design Development, 2014

Final Bag Design

Fig 28: Front of Loyalty Card Design, 2014

Fig 29: Back of Loyalty Card Design, 2014

Fig 27: Canvas Bag Final Design, 2014

Loyalty Card Design

To launch the campaign concept ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’ and the canvas bag collaboration with Vivienne Westwood, I am proposing an engaging and informative forum that consumers can get involved in. In conducting interviews to gain primary insight, one reoccurring answer was that people did not know enough about H&M Conscious and did not know how to contribute, but when asked how important sustainable fashion was to them on a scale of 1 to 10, the majority of answers were above 5, implying they do care about the cause but need to know more to make the decision to contribute. One key quote that stuck with me was one I received from a young fashion blogger: I don’t think I have enough knowledge to have an opinion, maybe that’s something the fashion industry need to look into! Education about sustainability, not just pushing sustainable campaigns. (Redmond, 2014) It is also noteworthy that when asked what the term ‘fast fashion’ meant in my ‘Do You Donate’ survey, 21 out of 51 participants could correctly define it, whereas when I left a question box in Antenna Media Centre asking what the term ‘sustainable fashion’ meant, only 5 out of 23 people answered accurately, implying people are not aware of certain terms and phrases used to describe the global issue. Therefore, the aim of this forum will be to help consumers understand the vision of H&M Conscious and to educate them on the sustainability problems the fashion industry and our planet faces in order to plant a seed of clarification and hopefully persuade people want to make change. In light of the upcoming botanical floral trend for SS14, the event will take the theme of a botanical garden in an outdoor location over summer. The outdoor location maintains the celebration of our planet and actively demonstrates more conscious actions in the way that less electricity and resources will be used. At the event, there will be a sustainable fashion forum with a focus on H&M Conscious, held by a panel of ethical fashion experts. On the panel will be Vivienne Westwood, Lucy Siegle, a high profile sustainable fashion commentator and author of sustainable fashion book To Die For, H&M CEO Karl Persson and the brains behind this year’s H&M Conscious collection, Elizabeth Von Guttman and Alexia Niedzielski. The discussion will allow consumers to ask questions and enable them to be educated on a critical global issue in order to gain awareness of how they can contribute and why it is so important. To promote the canvas bag and loyalty card, Vivienne Westwood will talk about her inspiration behind the design and her views on sustainable fashion, optimistically, someone as high profile as Vivienne Westwood will encourage many people to attend the event and perhaps influence H&M consumers to alter their shopping habits.

Campaign Launch

Even though the reason for creating this event is serious, it will still be lighthearted and fun, otherwise consumers would not enjoy it and this would be detrimental to the end goal. The canvas bags and loyalty cards will be available to purchase at the event; whilst consumers are in a mindset where they are actively thinking about sustainable fashion, they may be more willing to make the commitment of not using shopping bags; ‘Consumers are more likely to be aware of stimuli that relate to their current needs’. (Rabolt, 2009) The H&M Conscious collection will also feature at the event in order for consumers to see how attractive the products are, and how sustainable fashion can still be on-trend and stylish. H&M’s garment-collecting boxes will be placed around the venue in which consumers can bring their unwanted clothing to in exchange for a £5 voucher. If consumers do not want to recycle their clothing with the garment collecting boxes, there will be customisation stations for consumers to mend, update or embellish their clothes to give it a fresh look. Refreshments will also be on offer to consumers who attend as well as live music to create a festival type buzz. After a recent visit to H&M’s flagship store on Regent Street, I feel the event would be best located in an outdoor London location as this is where the most promotion for H&M Conscious takes place. The event will take place in Hyde Park as it is central and well known by the majority of people in the UK, meaning it will be easy to find. To attend the event, consumers will have to make a minimum donation of £5 but higher donations are welcome and these proceeds will go to H&M Conscious’ three main focus areas and their charities.

What does ‘sustainable fashion’ mean to you?

78.3% did not know what the term ‘sustainable fashion’ meant

Fig 30: Infographic showing the percentage of participants who understood the term ‘sustainable fashion’, 2014

What does ‘fast fashion’ mean to you?

58.8% did not know what the term ‘fast fashion’ meant

Fig 31: Infographic showing the percentage of participants who understood the term ‘fast fashion’, 2014

Design Inspiration

Fig 32: Design Inspiration Moodboard, 2014 44

In interviewing H&M consumers, I discovered that they found out about H&M Conscious online and/or in the brand’s magazine, in order to execute the campaign successfully, I need to promote it through these routes to the consumer. For that reason, the campaign will first be announced on all of H&M’s social media channels, as well as its own website and all relevant parties’ websites/blogs, i.e. Vivienne Westwood and Lucy Siegle in order to create as buzz and trigger word of mouth promotion. It will then be advertised in H&M’s in-store magazine to give a more visual and in depth insight. Instead of distributing a regular flyer to give out in-store, I have taken inspiration from Mexican restaurant, Wahaca; (see appendix 7). H&M branded seed packets will be distributed to stores in the UK with a summary of all of the relevant information about ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’. Using seed packets demonstrates a more innovative and creative take on a regular flyer and gives the consumer something they can personally benefit from without bombarding them with information they perhaps are not interested in. The seed packets also take on the theme of sustainability and give consumers something to utilise, i.e. growing their own vegetables or plants, which will potentially make them think more in depth about the topic at hand. Optimistically, consumers who use the seed packets will start to share images and information about what they are growing on social platforms like Instagram and Twitter to spread the word about the campaign even further.

Online Promotion

Campaign Promotion

The campaign will be announced on the H&M Life section of its website, the brand’s online magazine, with appropriate visuals to attract attention and create excitement around it and will then be fed through H&M’s UK Facebook page and Twitter page, with further announcements on the event panel participants’ websites and social media platforms. The hashtag ‘#hmconscious’ will be used to create a two-way conversation between brand and consumer to promote the campaign and get people talking about it.

Magazine Advertising There will be an initial four-page spread on ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’ in H&M’s in-store magazine where the consumer can be informed of what the campaign is about. The event panelists will be interviewed to create interesting quotes and content, alongside exciting and creative visuals of the canvas bag, loyalty card and a mood board for the event. The magazine will inform consumers of how they can get involved in the campaign, i.e. when and where the event is, as well as how they can contribute to H&M Conscious. On the face of it, magazine advertising would seem inappropriate due to the age range of my target consumer and their typically heavy use of the Internet and social media but according to Marianne C. Bickle (2011) ‘Despite the extensive use of the Internet, print media continues to be popular with consumers’, the results of my H&M consumer interviews support this notion.

Fig 33: Wahaca chilli seed packets, 2010

Fig 34: H&M In-store magazine, 2012

Fig 35: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014

Design Development

Fig 36: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014

Fig 37: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014

Design Development

Fig 38: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014

Fig 39: Magazine Editorial Final Design, 2014

Final Magazine Ad

Fig 40: H&M In Store Magazine Articles, 2014

Magazine Editorial

Consumer is reached through another touch point, providing them with more information about the campaign and how they can get involved. The visual nature of the magazine editorial attracts attention. The seed packets create intrigue and give the consumer something in return.

The campaign is brought to the attention of the consumer, and they can begin to engage with it. H&M can see the consumer’s initial reaction. H&M’s website and social media channels gain momentum and media attention. H&M announces ‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’ campaign launch on its website and social media channels to coinicide with environmental movement ‘Earth Day’ (22nd April 2015)

May 2015

Campaign Timeline

Promotional seed packets are handed out in store to promote the campaign.

The consumer is connected directly with the brand, creating a feeling of exclusivity and encouraging them to want to take part in the campaign.

More in depth promotion of the campaign through the H&M in-store magazine, including interviews with the forum panel and visualisation of the campaign, i.e. photo shoots and canvas bag preview.

‘Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth’ forum takes place in Hyde Park on August Bank Holiday. Attendees can buy a canvas bag and loyalty card before they launch in store, donate clothes, learn about H&M conscious and understand the importance of sustainable fashion.

June 2015

April 2015 H&M announces collaboration project with Vivienne Westwood for the campaign through its website and social media, introduces loyalty card and limited edition canvas bag. H&M’s audience reach widens as followers of Vivienne Westwood are also drawn in. Word of mouth takes place, heightening the attention around the campaign.

September 2015

July 2015 August 2015 Tickets for the campaign launch are released, H&M and panelists promote the event. The consumer is encouraged to take the pledge to use canvas bags. A minimum ticket price of £5 is required for the event but attendees can donate more. The consumer can share their ticket purchase via their social media profiles to spread the word of the campaign even further, whilst demonstrating that they’re doing something charitable, creating a feelgood factor.

The bag and loyalty card scheme launches in UK stores in early September. The mass consumer audience can now take the pledge to stop using plastic bags and will be more aware of the garment collection process after the event.

Fig 41: Campaign Timeline, 2014. 54

Prerequisites of Adoption Compatibility

“The innovation should be compatible with consumer’s lifestyles” (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) The canvas bag is easy to fit into consumer lifestyle as it is an everyday product The canvas bag replaces the use of plastic bags – something that consumers do make use of when shopping, only the quality of the product is changing, therefore it is still compatible with the consumer’s lifestyle. The loyalty card is an incentive for consumer’s to get involved – from observation, many consumers regularly bring in vouchers or coupons to get discounts or offers on products, the loyalty card works the same way, demonstrating its compatability. The event is also demonstrative of compatibility as my consumer interviews showed that many of the participants’ hobbies included socialising and going out.

Trialability

“Since an unknown is accompanied by high-perceived risk, people are more likely to adopt an innovation if they can experiment with it prior to making a commitment.” (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) The event gives the consumer a chance to see what the campaign is about before investing in it, as the canvas bag and H&M Conscious collection will be at the event, they can try on products before they buy them and also seek further information before committing.

Observability

“Innovations that are easily observable and communicated are more likely to spread, this quality makes it more likely that other potential adopters will become aware of its existence.” (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) The campaign is being promoted online and in H&M’s magazines, two key places that my target consumer is keeping in touch with the brand, therefore it is easily observable. The campaign will also be promoted in store, a clear touch point in which to connect with my consumer base.

Relative Advantage

“Most importantly, the product should offer relative advantage over other alternatives. The consumer must believe that its use will provide a benefit other products cannot offer.” (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) The loyalty card scheme provides an advantage for the consumer, as they receive points to spend in store, so they are essentially getting something free. The bag being designed by Vivienne Westwood is an advantage in itself as it provides limited edition design and enables consumers to be able to connect with the Vivienne Westwood brand at a lower price point. The event allows consumers to meet with industry professionals and designers and enables them to buy the canvas bag and loyalty card before the majority.

Complexity

“A product that is easier to understand and use will be chosen over a competitor. This strategy requires less effort from the consumer, and it also lowers perceived risk.” (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) The campaign is easy to follow and provides enjoyment for the consumer, lowering the level of complexity.

Idea Evaluation

I have marked my creative outcomes according to Rogers’ Prerequisites Of Adoption (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009) in order to evaluate the suitability for the consumer and guage the success of my campaign.

The bag and loyalty card is an easy scheme for the consumer to adopt, it has very little effort making it easy for them, also lowering risk as it is not a huge commitment. Fig 42: Prerequisites of Adoption analysis model, 2014

Conclusion

The aim of these creative outcomes are to implement long-term change, not to create a huge amount of media attention for a short amount of time that will soon be forgotten about. The idea is to educate consumers and encourage them to contribute to the H&M Conscious Initiative in ways that are easy for them, without changing their whole lifestyle. It could be argued that if a lot of people make a small change, the results will be more successful than if only a few people make big changes. My implementations are to put H&M Conscious and sustainable fashion on the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s radar in order to make real change, these outcomes need to be sustainable in order to create a big enough impact to make fashion more sustainable. The success of the campaign will be measured in how many how many people attend the event, how much money is raised for the H&M Conscious Foundation, how many people buy into the canvas bag and loyalty card scheme and how often they use it. If the campaign was to be extended further, the campaign could be launched globally with more limited edition designer collaborations for the canvas bag, or other guilt-free products, in order to make an even bigger impact. I feel that through extensive primary research and secondary research, I have generated appropriate outcomes and concepts that are new to the fashion industry in the UK for the consumer to engage with, encouraging them to contribute to H&M Conscious. I have implemented a strategy to make the H&M Conscious Foundation more successful in terms of involving the consumer. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bring Fashion Back Down To Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; influences my target audience to adapt their behaviour to be more conscious and shop more responsibly without completely transforming their lifestyle. I accept that these implementations are not going to solve the issue of sustainable fashion instantly, but they are small steps that both H&M and its consumers can take to Bring Fashion Back Down To Earth.

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List of Illustrations

Fig 1: H&M Conscious Foundation, 2014. Available at: http://makeadifference.hm.com Fig 2: Pharrell Williams at RAW For The Oceans Launch Event, 2014. Available at: http://nitrolicious.com/2014/02/10/pharrell-williams-x-g-star-raw-oceanscollaboration/ Fig 3: H&M Conscious Collection, 2013. Available at: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/research-institute/h&m-conscious-sustainable-fashion Fig 4: Infographic for ‘H&M Conscious Initial Survey’ results, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 5: Infographic for H&M consumer interview results, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 6: Consumer profile, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 7: Lush Cosmetics charity pot, 2012. Available at: http://thriftyninja.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/lush14.jpg Fig 8: Nudie Jeans rug, 2014. Available at: http://www.nudiejeans.com/recycled-rugs/ Fig 9: Eco Trend Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 10: H&M SWOT Analysis, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 11: Brand Onion Model, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 12: Initial Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 13: Visual Inspiration Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 14: Typography Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 15: Design Inspiration Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 16: Visual Reference Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 17: Initial images for magazine advetisement, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 18: Alex Box Make Up Artist, 2014. Available at: http://thealexbox.com Fig 19: ‘Chemistry’ by Craig Tracy, 2012. Available at: http://www.craigtracy.com/gallery/chemistry.html Fig 20: ‘Beautiful Monster’ by Paco Peregrin, 2011. Available at: http://www.thefashionbirdcage.com/2013/05/beautiful-monster-photography-by-paco.html Fig 21: Lush Cosmetics Little Green Bag, 2014. Available at: http://www.lushusa.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-Lush-Site/enU_ S/Home-ErrorNotFound Fig 22: Vivienne Westwood for Save the Arctic, 2013. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/environment/gallery/2014/feb/08/vivienne-westwood-save-the-arctic-campaign-in-pictures#/?picture=429182251&index=5 Fig 23: Font development for Vivienne Westwood’s collaboration logo, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 24: Canvas Bag Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 25: Canvas Bag Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 26: Canvas Bag Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 27: Canvas Bag Final Design, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 28: Front of Loyalty Card Design, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 29: Back of Loyalty Card Design, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 30: Infographic showing the percentage of participants who understood the term ‘sustainable fashion’, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 31: Infographic showing the percentage of participants who understood the term ‘fast fashion’, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 32: Design Inspiration Moodboard, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 33: Wahaca chilli seed packets, 2010. Available at: http://www.thesustainablemba.com/category/consumers Fig 34: H&M In-store magazine, 2012. Available at: http://sidewalkhustle.com/abbey-lee-kershaw-josephine-skriver-for-hm-magazine-spring-2012-by-terryrichardson/ Fig 35: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 36: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 37: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 38: Magazine Editorial Design Development, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 39: Magazine Editorial Final Design, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 40: H&M In Store Magazine Articles, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 41: Campaign Timeline, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image) Fig 42: Prerequisites of Adoption analysis model, 2014. By Chloe Taylor. (Own Image)

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Appendices

68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

1. Lush Cosmetics 2. People Tree 3. Patagonia 4. Nudie Jeans 5. MyGoodness 6. Pharrell Williams 7. Wahaca 8. Vivienne Westwood 9. Visual Inspiration 10. Critical Path 11. H&M Initial Survey

12. Do You Donate? Survey

79 11.1 H&M Initial Survey Results

81 12.1 Do You Donate? Survey Results

13. H&M Consumer Interviews 83 84 85 86 87 88 90 91

13. Veronika Marshall 13.1 Romy Litchfield 13.2 Katie Chubb 13.3 Rebecca Raimes 13.4 Emma Laing 13.5 Georgia Ross 13.6 Sarah Armstrong 13.7 Steph Bradshaw

92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99

13.8 Sarah Adams 13.9 Allie-May Redmond 14. Natasha Minter 14.1 Roz Hodson 14.2 Natalie Garland 14.3 Paige Davidson 14.4 Emma Sutherland 14.5 Hayley Hind

99 15. Social Media Research 100 16. H&M Current Marketing 101 17. Antenna Media Research

Appendix 1 LUSH Cosmetics LUSH Cosmetics is a brand with high ethical and moral values, and could be described as an activist business. It executes many campaigns to combat global issues surrounding the environment, animal testing and human rights. The brand uses completely natural ingredients for its products and sustainable packaging that is 100% recyclable. LUSH ensure that none of its products are harmful to the environment and are not tested on animals. The brand offers a free store magazine, to help raise awareness for the causes it fights for – consumers can read up on LUSH’s efforts as well as educating themselves on global concerns. In addition, the brand taxes itself on flights and gives the money to environmental groups, making up for using air miles where it is unavoidable. Causing a huge media storm, LUSH recently revealed the trauma that animals go through in animal testing by carrying out testing procedures on a human in one of their store windows, revealing the severity of pain and distress that animal testing still causes to the public and hoping to “plant a seed of debate” (Guardian, 2012) Although the desensitisation theory states that in a world of mass media, we are no longer shocked by explicit adverts, I believe this campaign caused the frenzy that it set out to do because it was real life, not just a picture on a billboard and it brought to life the traumatic experiences that consumers read or hear about.

Appendix 2 People Tree “For every beautiful garment, People Tree makes, there’s an equally beautiful change happening somewhere in the world.” (People Tree, 2014) People Tree is an all-ethical and all-sustainable fashion apparel brand and a pioneer in the fashion industry. Its mission is “To Support, To Protect, To supply, To Provide and To Set An Example” (People Tree, 2014) To achieve this mission, People Tree has united with fair trade artisans and farmers in developing countries for over 20 years, in order to achieve sustainable and ethical fashion. With the worrying statistic that only 1% of cotton produced in the world is fair trade and organic (People Tree, 2014), People Tree’s efforts can only be commended and applauded, although I feel it is a difficult brand for the mainstream consumer and the young consumer to buy into due to its price point and lack of trend-led design. However it is apparent that People Tree are aware of its issue in targeting a younger audience through its collaboration with Emma Watson in 2010 and 2011. I don’t think I have enough knowledge to have an opinion, maybe that’s something the fashion industry need to look into! Education about sustainability, not just pushing sustainable campaigns. (Redmond, 2014) Collaborating with Emma Watson was a positive move for People Tree in the way of reaching the younger consumer. Emma Watson is about the age of the typical fast fashion consumer, a style icon and influential to an age group that grew up loving Harry Potter. Furthering People Tree’s efforts are its registered membership of World Fair Trade Organisation (the first ever fashion brand to receive such a certification) and its online magazine Eco Edit; creating another consumer touch point to connect with and educate consumers. A key campaign that People Tree recently executed in light of the Rana Plaza disaster was Rag Rage. The campaign was a petition demanding fashion brands to sign the Fire & Safety agreement in Bangladesh. The petition received 80,000 signatures and by 16th May 2013 – only three weeks after the disaster took place – many leading high street brands had signed the agreement, a monumental step forward for the fashion industry and People Tree’s mission. (Peopletree.co.uk, 2014)

Appendix 3 Patagonia

Appendix 4 Nudie Jeans

Outdoor apparel and accessories brand Patagonia’s reason for being is to “build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.” (Patagonia, 2014) It does this through providing products through what it deem ‘silent sports’; sports where no motors or crowds are required, reducing the impact on the environment. Patagonia donates at least 1% of its sales to environmental grassroots organisations across the world, as well as administering many campaigns to combat globally environmental issues. The brand only uses recycled polyester and organic cotton in its products to reduce its damage to nature and our planet. Patagonia’s take on raising awareness is to inspire the consumer through its regular field reports, produced since 1990. The reports “share a passion for life” (Patagonia, 2014) and aim to engage readers through whit, knowledge and anecdotes.

Luxury denim brand, Nudie Jeans has created an insightful, engaging and inspiring story through its ethical products and brand tagline ‘the naked truth about denim’. On the brand’s website, there are nine sections in which consumers can get involved and be educated, including a blog of what Nudie Jeans is up to, a page on recycling your jeans and a production guide. The website provides so much content and information so that they are full transparent, proving all of their practices are ethical and have the environment in mind.

One innovative feature on Patagonia’s website is The Footprint Chronicles; an interactive map that tracks the business’ habits and provides a transparent supply chain for consumers to see. In using transparency in its supply chain, Patagonia intends to reduce its social and environmental impacts. The Footprint Chronicles is an appealing way of interacting with consumers, presenting them with something to get involved in, as well as educating them and hopefully, influencing other businesses to do the same. The Common Threads Partnership is another interactive campaign. Created by Patagonia, it encourages consumers to ‘reduce, repair, reuse and recycle’ with the aim to ‘reimagine a sustainable world’. The partnership is between Patagonia and its consumers, in that they work with each other to achieve the campaign’s goals. I.e. the brand helps to repair consumers’ broken Patagonia products as long as the consumer is willing to fix it and it also takes back any worn out products to recycle them. Consumers can take the pledge via the company website, as this was written, 60,000 people had taken the pledge. Patagonia’s efforts are admirable in the way that it does not do ‘the hard sell’ if you like. Its campaigns and projects are calm and gentle, reflecting the tone of being in touch with nature and respecting the planet. The brand successfully engages and interacts with consumers in order to get its message across. My only question is however, is the hard work that Patagonia does so well aggressive enough to change our world on a larger scale? What the brand does currently is a respectful contribution but it is still important to acknowledge that more has to be done, by everyone.

Nudie Jeans has a four step after-purchase routine for the consumer to follow called the ‘Nudie Jeans Eco Cycle’, the four steps are break-in, repair, reuse and recycle. (Nudiejeans.com, 2014) The break-in section describes how consumers can wear in their dry jeans, the information on when and how to wash your Nudie Jeans in this part suggests that the brand purposely sells jeans dry to avoid as much environmental impact as it can. What’s more is that Nudie Jeans offers repair services and home repair kits to encourage the consumer to wear their jeans as much as they possibly can before buying a new pair. On repairing the product, Nudie Jeans then encourages the consumer to reuse them, not only does the brand want the consumer to reuse their jeans themselves, but Nudie also reuses them itself, for example, the Nudie Jeans rug was created from old Nudie Jeans and sold on their website. The brand is also involved in much collaboration with what they refer to as ‘Denim Maniacs’, young designers, to give denim a second life – the creation of new denim fashion out of old samples and products. Much like Patagonia, Nudie Jeans stylishly keeps its supply chain transparent through an interactive map on its website. The map breaks down the supply and manufacture chain of each type of garment that Nudie Jeans sells, and gives percentages of what is made in each country it buys from, allowing consumers to see how ethical they truly are. Nudie Jeans states that it does not foresee a trade-off between profit and people, and is a responsible brand, working towards a living wage for garment workers, organic materials and sustainable production. (Nudiejeans.com, 2014) Style is supreme in the world of fashion. Ethical companies must recognise this and focus on innovation to make sustainability on trend. (Angel, 2013) From my experience on the website, I think that Nudie Jeans brings a modern, on-trend and innovative take on sustainable fashion, using playful language and creative graphics, it does not feel tired, guilt-tripping or boring. It makes you want to do something more, and buy into the brand, not only because of its stylish array of products, but because of its efforts to do something better.

Appendix 5

MyGoodness Launched in 2013, Mygoodness.com is a ‘unique destination where inspired shopping meets feel-good giving’. (Mygoodness.com, 2014) The website focuses on fashion and lifestyle products that when consumers purchase, they are giving something back to greater causes and charities. MyGoodness’s ethos is summarised in its ‘Buy To Give Movement’, which the site describes as ‘incorporating philanthropy into our every day lives’. (Mygoodness.com, 2014) It stocks many brands that are philanthropic, ethical and sustainable. Each time consumers buy a product on the website, the brand of the purchased product makes a donation to its chosen cause or charity, as well as MyGoodness who also make a 10% donation to one of the causes or charities on its own list. This business model is effective because it provides modern and welldesigned goods through a stylish and contemporary website, meaning the consumer can find products that they really love and the charitable factor is an added bonus – they do not have to go out of their way to do something charitable, it has a sense of automaticity and ease. Thus, the consumer and the brand are achieving the goals they set out to reach; MyGoodness raises money for a good cause and the consumer gets a great product. MyGoodness’ tagline is ‘Shop For Good. Make A Difference’, and not only does it sell philanthropic goods, but it also auctions various once in a life time experiences such as tickets to a catwalk show in Paris or trips abroad. When someone wins an experience, the brand makes an 80% donation to a charity or cause on its list. With 40 brands, the shop can appeal to a wide range of consumers, and the great thing about MyGoodness is, the consumer does not have to have an interest in philanthropy or ethicality, their efforts only need to go as far as buying a product that they want. Further to selling charitable goods, MyGoodness makes an effort to educate and inform consumers through its blog where those that are interested in philanthropy can heighten their knowledge on happenings in the industry and ways they can get involved. With a high price point band, MyGoodness targets a very different audience to H&M, but I think the business model could be translated to a mass market on a smaller scale – LUSH is able to do something similar with its Charity Pot, so this could be something for H&M to consider.

Appendix 6 Pharrell Williams Alongside other philanthropic celebrities like Vivienne Westwood, Will.I.Am and Emma Watson is Pharrell Williams. One of Pharrell’s many creative ventures is Bionic Yarn. Bionic Yarn is the manufacturer of high-end eco-yarn. Its missions are ‘to make the world a better place with a better product’ and ‘to achieve sustainability without sacrificing quality’. (BionicYarn.com, 2014) The brand provides a video on its website educating consumers on how the eco-yarn is created; plastic bottles are chopped into tiny flakes and then melted down to make yarn. The brand’s motivational tagline is ‘Let’s reap more from what we sew’ and with a CEO like Pharrell Williams, it is likely that many consumers will be influenced by the brand due to his popularity and celebrity status. Bionic Yarn is closely involved with an initiative called The Vortex Project, which looks at cleaning up the oceans and ridding it of litter and waste to avoid damage to sea life as well as to combat the health risks for those of us who eat seafood. The project looks to recycle and reuse plastic from the oceans and turn it into smart consumer products, i.e. Bionic Yarn. Through the work of Pharrell Williams, G-Star RAW has recently teamed up with Bionic Yarn to create a 100% recycled denim line made from litter taken out of the oceans. Pharrell’s work towards creating a more sustainable world shows great initiative from responsible businesses. There is a lack of consumer involvement but hopefully in the launch of G-Star RAW’s ‘RAW For The Oceans’ collections, consumers will be able to buy a fully sustainable product and hopefully be more aware of the current state of our oceans. I believe the use of celebrity status can be extremely powerful in changing consumer behaviour. Regardless of celebrity culture’s criticisms, it can be used to influence a mass consumer audience who closely follow the ins and outs of the fame-hungry world we live in today. .

My only criticism to MyGoodness is its lack of brand awareness, I only found out about this brand through a tiny snippet in Stylist magazine. As a brand doing something so commendable, I feel they should be marketed better in order to reach more consumers and create even larger positive outcomes for the charities, brands and causes it supports. With only just over 2,000 followers on Twitter, I feel the brand could do more to reach out, but only being in business for a year means there is still plenty of time yet.

Appendix 7 Wahaca Mexican restaurant, Wahaca gives out packets of chilli seeds to each customer at the end of their meal with the bill. This is a promotional idea to encourage customers to grow their own Wahaca chillies, therefore being more sustainable whilst interacting with the brand beyond its restaurants. To create a more engaging experience for the customer, the restaurant has online video tutorials on how to nurture your chilli plants once you have planted the Wahaca seeds. The benefit of giving away such a promotional item is that it connects the customer to the brand on another level; Wahaca is catching the attention of the consumer outside of its restaurants and prolonging the relationship with its customers. Whilst creating a more interesting experience, the restaurant is also educating the consumer on growing something of their own and influencing them to be more sustainable.

Appendix 8 Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood has become a renowned political activist, particularly in the subject areas of climate change and the environment. Despite being a highly successful fashion designer, Westwood is known for being passionately outspoken and fighting for causes she believes in to change peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perceptions of fashion and thus, their consumption behaviour. In 2013, Stylist.co.uk quoted Westwood: People should not consume without thought, buying up stuff all the time. Buy less and make it last; if you love something, wear it all the time. (Stylist.co.uk, 2013) Over time, Vivienne Westwood has used her celebrity status and collaborating with that of others to raise awareness and make a change. She regularly creates products that give back to charities and organisations trying to make a difference (see timeline below) One recent example of this is the Climate Revolution scarf (pictured left, REFERENCE) that is the result of a collaboration with natural cosmetics brand, LUSH in order to raise awareness and generate money for grassroots organisations. A collaboration between H&M and Vivienne Westwood would be incredibly successful for both the brand and the H&M Conscious Initiative as it would fit in the with the high profile designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Isabel Marant, that H&M has collaborated with in the past. Furthermore, Vivienne Westwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature style is highly sought after and would give H&Mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sustainable designs an on-trend feel, appealing to more people that may not have considered H&M Conscious in the past. Sustainable fashion has the chance to put sustainability on trend if eco designers focus on style. (Angel, 2013) Not only this, but Vivienne Westwood is also a highly powerful and influential figure within both fashion and environmental activism, meaning H&M consumers would take notice and therefore hopefully take steps to shopping more responsibly by buying into the H&M Conscious range and/or contributing to the garment collecting process. Vivienne Westwood is an example of how a successful fashion business can still be attractive and on-trend to the consumer whilst being responsible, ethical and considerate of our planet.

Appendix 9 Visual Inspiration

Appendix 10 Critical Path

week 36 week 37 week 38 week 39 week 40 week 41 week 42 week 43

week 35

design & make creative outcomes

week 34

FINA LWRITE UP

week 33

draft

week 32

write report (research continues

week 31

essay plan

week 30

primary & Secondary research

week 29

hand in

Appendix 11 H&M Initial Survey

Appendix 11.1 H&M Initial Survey Results 1. Have you ever heard of the H&M Conscious campaign?

40%

60%

2. Have you ever used the H&M Conscious recycling boxes in store?

47% 78

47% 79

Appendix 12 Do You Donate? Survey

Appendix 12.1 Do You Donate? Survey Results 1. What is your gender?

2. Do you donate your unused clothing? (Gender breakdown)

3. Breakdown of females who donate their unused clothing by age.

19 & UNDER

20 - 30

31 - 40

41 - 50

51 - 60

61 - 70

70+

1 81

4. Breakdown of males who donate their unused clothing by age.

19 & UNDER

20 - 30

31 - 40

41 - 50

51 - 60

61 - 70

70+

Appendix 13 H&M Consumer Interview - Veronika Marshall

5. Are you aware of the term fast fashion?

51%

49%

YES

Veronika Marshall, 20, Fashion Design Student, Norwich, 27th February 2014 1. Yes 2. Vogue.com 3. Not yet! 4. Haven’t had the time and didn’t know too much about it at all

6. Percentages of people who answered correctly and incorrectly when asked what the term fast fashion meant.

5. It’s definitely around the 8/9 out of 10 margin. It’s extremely important; we need to think about our future. However, in order for that to happen, it needs to be hyped up more, creating excitement is the key. Especially for the designers, as they are the innovative creators of our future fashion. Their approval is essential if we want greater sustainability to reach the high street. 6. Around 2 to 3 times a month 7. ASOS, Topshop, H&M, Rokit, Syd & Mallory 8. Around £250 - £300 a month

41%

59%

9. Fashion design, photography, yoga, hiking 10. I read a lot of fashion/culture/art magazines! Website articles/blogs! A lot of my friends are doing fashion design/journalism so fashion news/brands is always part of our conversation over coffee!

correctly incorrectly 82

Appendix 13.1 H&M Consumer Interview - Romy Litchfield

Appendix 13.2 H&M Consumer Interview - Katie Chubb

Katie Chubb, FCP Student, 20, Nottingham 1. Yes 2. I shop in H&M and I saw it on a clothing donation bin Romy Litchfield, FCP Student, 21, Nottingham, 27th February 2014 1. Yes I’ve heard of it but don’t know much about it 2. I’ve heard about it in the H&M magazine and in-store. I was in New York last Easter and they had amazing VM in one of their 5th Avenue stores for the conscious collection which sticks in my mind. 3. No 4. I don’t really know how, I’ve seen the boxes in-store but have never actually seen anyone donating to them so that’s kind of put me off a bit 5. 4 6. Very often, I was in there today 7. Zara, H&M, River Island, Topshop, Primark

3. I have not 4. I feel I would get more for my clothes on eBay 5. 4 (Not very important 6. Every 2 – 3 months 7. Primark, Topshop, Zara, Fred Perry, NW3 by Hobbs 8. Up to £60 9. Photography, gigs, blogging, travel, cooking 10. Brands’ social media sites, magazines such as Love, Pop, Vogue, Wonderland, Dazed & Confused

8. Probably about £100, maybe a bit less, I sell all of my old clothes on eBay on a monthly basis to try and justify my expenditure 9. Ballet, watching geography documentaries, running and shopping 10. Mainly Twitter and Instagram, I’m a bit of an addict, I love seeing upcoming collections and new products on Instagram. I also sign up to lots of store newsletters as they often send me discount codes and vouchers.

Appendix 13.3 H&M Consumer Interview - Rebecca Raimes

Appendix 13.4 H&M Consumer Interview - Emma Laing

Emma Laing, Film and Media Student, 21, Sunderland, 27th February 2014 1. No Rebecca Raimes, Textile & Surface Design Student, 22, Cleveland, 27th February 2014 1. No

2. N/A

3. N/A

3. No

4. N/A

4. Because I haven’t heard of it

5. 7

5. 10, very

6. Twice a month

6. 3 times a month

7. Urban Outfitters, Topshop, H&M, ASOS, Primark

7. H&M, New Look, River Island, Forever 21 and Primark

8. £75 - £125

8. £20 - £40

9. Film, TV, vintage fashion

9. Shopping, seeing friends, going out

10. Email newsletters/promotions, blogs

10. Research online

Appendix 13.5 H&M Consumer Interview - Georgia Ross

Appendix 13.6 H&M Consumer Interview - Sarah Armstrong

Georgia Ross, Nursing Student, 21, Newcastle Upon Tyne, 27th February 2014-02-27 1. Yes 2. H&M Magazine and in the store 3. Yes 4. I just bought the clothes because I liked them 5. 4 6. Once a month on payday 7. H&M, Primark, Topshop, River Island, New Look 8. £50 - £100 9. Shopping, going out 10. Magazines, i.e. Look

Sarah Armstrong, Operations & Projects Assistant, 30, Newcastle Upon Tyne, 27th February 2014 1. No 2. N/A 3. N/A 4. Hadn’t heard of it 5. Probably 6 6. About 1 – 2 7. H&M, Primark, New Look, Oasis, Dorothy Perkins 8. About £40 9. Photography, eating out, walking, reading, cycling 10. Magazines, social networking such as Instagram

Appendix 13.7 H&M Consumer Interview - Steph Bradshaw

Appendix 13.8 H&M Consumer Interview - Sarah Adams

Sarah Adams, 22, Journalism Student, Sunderland, 28th February 2014 1. I’ve seen the logos, etc but never heard about it in depth Steph Bradshaw, Marketing Assistant, 21, Belgium, 27th February 2014 1. Yes 2. Saw the marketing campaign on the website and in magazines 3. No 4. It wouldn’t affect my buying decision, normally conscious clothing is less vibrant than other clothing, it would be a pleasant bonus if something I liked was in the conscious collection

2. I seen it on their website and in the H&M Catalogue 3. No 4. Probably because I don’t know much about it but I love H&M clothes so would in the future 5. 8 – I’d say it’s certainly important 6. Quite often, usually after payday, I order quite a lot from their catalogue and get it delivered

5. 5

7. H&M, Topshop, New Look, Miss Guided, Corner 93

6. Twice a month

8. Around £100

7. H&M, Topshop, Urban Outfitters, Zara, Cheap Monday

9. Reading, socialising, I love selling things on eBay, bargain hunting in charity shops, vintage events

8. £85

10. Twitter, fashion websites and magazines

9. Fashion, music, photography 10. Usually online or in Vogue/Elle

Appendix 13.9 H&M Consumer Interview - Allie-May Redmond

Allie-May Redmond, 21, Fashion Marketing Student, Nottingham – 1st March 2014 1. Yes 2. I’ve seen the swing tags and the ads in magazines but never really knew what it was 3. No 4. Didn’t realise you could contribute to it and never looked it up as the style of clothing never really appealed to me 5. 5

Appendix 14 H&M Consumer Interview - Natasha Minter

Natasha Minter, 21, Fashion Communication & Promotion Student, Nottingham – 3rd March 2014 1. No 2. No 3. No 4. Never heard of it

6. Once every 2 – 3 weeks

5. Quite important, I wear a lot of my mum’s and my gran’s old clothes and if I do shop on the high street/online it has to be something I love. I don’t really consider too much how clothing is made, I do think I should though, probably 5

7. ASOS, Topshop, Monki, H&M, Zara

6. Whenever I go shopping, I do look in H&M, probably once a month I go in there

8. £50

7. ASOS, H&M, Zara, Baklash Vintage, Mum’s Wardrobe

9. Blogging, socialising, Pinterest, eating, baking cakes

8. £50 a month

10. Blogs, Twitter, Instagram, general fashion magazines like Elle/Glamour

9. The gym, music events, reading, my 3rd year projects 10. Google alerts and Flipboard

Appendix 14.1 H&M Consumer Interview - Roz Hodson

Appendix 14.2 H&M Consumer Interview - Natalie Garland

Roz Hodson, 21, Makeup & Prosthetics Student, Leicester – 4th March 2014 1. No 2. N/A 3. No

Natalie Garland, 21, Trainee Reporter at Trinity Mirror, Frimley – 25th March 2014 1. No, whoops!

4. I’ve never heard of it

2. N/A as I don’t know about it

5. 3, I don’t really know much about it

3. Same as above

6. A lot, I go into H&M every time I’m in town, I prefer it over New Look, etc

4. Same as above

7. Topshop, H&M, River Island, ASOS, New Look

5. 4 or 5. As bad as it sounds, often when I’m shopping on a budget I will buy something based on its price or how it looks and I don’t often think about sustainability

8. Approximately £100 a month 9. Make up, socialising and drinking, gym, shopping, going on holiday 10. I read magazines and blogs, TV also gives me information

6. Every fortnight rougly 7. Primark, Topshop, H&M, New Look, ASOS 8. Roughly £250 9. Writing, blogging, dancing, exercise, running, reading 10. Twitter, press emails (from PR companies through blogging, reading fashion blogs

Appendix 14.3 H&M Consumer Interview - Paige Davidson

Paige Davidson, 21, Knitwear Design Student, Newcastle Upon Tyne – 26th March 2014 1. Yes 2. Ad campaign in H&M Magazine 3. Yes, I’ve bought a top from that range before 4. N/A

Appendix 14.4 H&M Consumer Interview - Emma Sutherland

Emma Sutherland, 20, Fashion Communication Student, Chester – 27th March 2014 1. Yes 2. H&M Magazine 3. No 4. Never seen anything that I liked from the collection 5. 5

5. 8/10

6. Sometimes

6. Once a month

7. Topshop, Zara, River Island, H&M, Primark

7. Primark, Topshop, H&M, Zara, River Island

8. £50

8. Around £150 a month

9. Rowing, gym

9. Shopping, going out to bars/restaurants, keeping up with the latest fashions, knitting, keeping online blogs with Pinterest/Instagram

10. Magazines, radio, Internet

10. Magazines, online, papers and free local magazines

Appendix 14.5 H&M Consumer Interview - Hayley Hind

Appendix 15 Social Media Research

Hayley Hind, 20, Criminology Student, Newcastle Upon Tyne – 28th March 2014 1. No 2. N/A 3. N/A 4. N/A 5. 8, it’s so important for the environment 6. Once a week 7. Topshop, Zara, Warehouse, H&M, ASOS 8. £200 - £300 9. Gym/bootcamp 10. Social Media/Apps

Appendix 16 H&M Current Marketing Material

100

Appendix 17 Antenna Media Research

101

102

103

Chloe Taylor N0376209

104