A LOGO FOR THE ITALIAN SLOW FOOD PRESIDIA
From 2008 all Italian Slow Food Presidia products will be identified by a colored logo and the inscription “Slow Food Presidium ”. ®
Look for it on labels and packaging ! You will help to support the custodians of biodiversity ! The logo shows that producers belong to a Presidium and comply with production rules that respect tradition and environmental sustainability. Italian Presidium producers are members of associations affiliated to Slow Food Italy and personally guarantee that rules are observed. Italian Presidia producers are members of associations affiliated to Slow Food Italy and personally guarantee that rules are observed. Presidium producers use ecological materials for their packaging, labels and brochures: recycled paper, glass, wood and any other material that is recyclable and reduces packaging requirements.
Presidium producers follow strict production rules:
• The cultivation of fruit and vegetables is based on native varieties and ecotypes (or populations traditionally grown in the production area) and eco-sustainable practices: Presidia producers use low environmental impact manual or mechanical methods. Organic or integrated cultivation methods are used for fertilization and crop protection. • Presidia favor native breeds (or populations traditionally farmed in a specific production area). • Cheeses are made using raw milk following traditional practices. • Presidia encourage mountain pasture products. This is not only to highlight their outstanding quality, but also because the presence of humans on high altitude pastures helps to maintain regional integrity and defend the mountain ecosystem. • Feed for animals is based on forage, hay and other natural feedstuffs: the use of silage or genetically modified products is not permitted. • Preserves, jams and other transformed products do not contain dehydrated or freeze-dried ingredients, or synthetic flavorings. The use of additives, sweeteners, thickeners, emulsifiers, stabilizers, antioxidants or colorants is not permitted: they only contain natural raw materials. • Presidia fishermen respect the development cycles of fish species, they avoid fishing in periods when the survival of species might be endangered and only use the traditional nets and fishing methods of small-scale coastal fishing. • Cured meats are produced using traditional methods. They do not contain flavoring agents, colorants, caseinates, thickeners or preservatives. Fermentation is natural: no starters are added and casings are strictly natural. They are aged in natural environments. • Presidia producers use ecological materials for their packaging, labels and brochures wherever possible: recycled paper, glass, wood and any other material that is recyclable and reduces packaging requirements. • All Presidia products respect the seasons. • Presidia have a history, they are connected to a specific geographical area from an environmental, historical and socioeconomic perspective. The veterinarians, agronomists and food technologists of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity collaborate with producers, providing assistance and advice.
The official list of Italian Presidia and producers involved in the Slow Food project can be viewed on the website:
www.presidislowfood.it The website also has details of transformers who use Presidia products and the retail outlets where products can be purchased. For further information write to: infopresidi@slowfood.it or telephone: tel. +39 0172 419611 fax +39 0172 419725
The project of the Italian Presidia has the patronage of
It is supported by
Presidia In Italy Updated October 2008
PIEDMONT Caprauna Turnip Caprauna is a small village in the upper valley of Tanaro with a few hundred inhabitants. The Caprauna Turnip comes from this region, an excellent local variety that is large and very sweet, and is an unusual white and yellow hue. As is typical of the Piedmont Alps, in past centuries it was an important part of the local diet but was later replaced by the potato. This turnip does not keep well once harvested; it is best left underground until ripe in the autumn and winter months. The Presidium hopes to protect its cultivation in the Commune of Caprauna, an area particularly suited to the turnip that is currently at risk of depopulation. Production area: Communes of Caprauna and Alto (Province of Cuneo) Presidium supported by: Upper Tanaro Valley Mountain Community Presidium coordinators: Marco Costalla. tel. +39 348 6701878 marco.costalla@libero.it Rinaldo Arnaldi, tel. +39 348 8730153 info@arnaldicentinature.it
Carmagnola Grey Rabbit The Carmagnola Grey Rabbit is the only native Piedmontese rabbit breed still in existence. Although it was quite popular up to the end of the 1950s, it practically disappeared until the recent genetic recovery work done
by the University of Turin. The rabbit’s medium size, long body and muscular haunches make for a good yield. Its bone structure is very fine with a muscle mass superior to that of other breeds. The meat is whitish in color, fine, tender and flavorful. Production area: Commune of Carmagnola and neighbouring area (Province of Turin) Presidium supported by: Piedmontese Blone Hen, Saluzzo White Hen and Carmagnola Grey Rabbit Consortium Presidium coordinators: Renato Dominici, tel. +39 011 9712673 +39 335 1370749 r.dominici@eataly.it Enrico Carrera, tel. + 39 338 9184729 dr.carrera@tiscali.it
Carmagnola Ox-Horn Pepper This pepper comes in splendid colors that range from intense yellow to bright red. Its curious long and tapered shape (over 20 centimeters long) has three or four lobes. Reminiscent of the spagnolìn, the first oblong pepper to arrive from the Americas, the Carmagnola Ox-Horn Pepper has a sweet flavor and a thick, fleshy pulp. The pepper is best prepared roasted, grilled, bagnà ‘nt l’euil (raw, immersed in extra virgin olive oil), or with bagna caoda. Production area: Commune of Carmagnola and neighbouring area (Province of Turin) Presidium supported by: Turin Provincial Authority, Carmagnola Pepper Consortium Presidium coordinator: Renato Dominici, tel. +39 011 9712673 +39 335 1370749 r.dominici@eataly.it 9
Robiola of Roccaverano Roccaverano cheese, made in the rough and fallow hills of Asti’s Langa, is Italy’s only historic PDO goat cheese. The Presidium variety is made exclusively with raw goat milk. Each form has its own unique flavor: flowers, herbs and pasture microflora give each cheese a distinct personality. Expect aromas of yogurt, fresh grass and hazelnut. The taste is enriched with spicy, mossy nuances and a long aftertaste. Production area: Langa astigiana (Province of Asti) Presidium coordinators: Enzo Codogno, tel. +39 0143 888228 +39 338 4364306 ecodogno@libero.it Gian Domenico Negro, tel. +39 0144 850000 +39 335 7219774 gd.negro@libero.it
Coazze Cevrin Some call it toma, some call it robiola, but the only real name for this cheese (in dialect) is Cevrin. This round cheese, produced from mixed raw cow and goat milk, is thickly ridged and has a moist crust. The exterior of the cheese is colored deep amber-yellow. Though the curd of the cheese near the crust is a pale yellow, the innermost curd is pure white. Aged Cevrin has an intense and long-lasting flavor. The primary aromas are musky, with notes of dry wood and freshly cut grass. The cheese has a long-lasting flavor of hazelnut, butter and, at times, a lingering spiciness. Production area: Sangone Valley, Communes of Coazze and Giaveno (Province of Turin) Presidium supported by: Turin Provincial Authority Presidium coordinators: Franco Turaglio, tel. +39 0121 600821 10
Presidia in Italy
+39 338 2951730 info@lanicchia.net Maria Lussiana, tel. +39 011 9363903 +39 338 8015225 maria.lussiana@virgilio.it
Coggiola Paletta This prosciutto made from pork shoulder has always been produced in this small commune in the Valsesia district. It is called Paletta, or ‘spade,’ because it utilizes the ham shoulder bone, cut in half lengthwise to make four small, spade-shaped hams from every pig. After the meat is rubbed with salt and spices, it is left to rest for 20 days and is then encased in the pig’s bladder. Coggiola Paletta is eaten raw in thin slices or briefly boiled and accompanied by apple mostarda and polenta. Production area: Commune of Coggiola and surrounding areas (Province of Biella) Presidium supported by: Commune of Coggiola Presidium coordinator: Alberto Meliga, tel. +39 015 2451772 +39 393 7082062 albertomeliga@libero.it
Garbagna Bella Cherry The Garbagna Bella cherry, nearly abbandoned over the past 20 years due to the fruit’s poor resistance to humidity, is the classic ciresa (“cherry” in Piedmontese dialect), a sweet and crunchy variety particularly well suited for preserving whole in alcohol. Conserved in this way, it will not disintegrate and will maintain its consistency and flavor. These cherries are excellent as fillings for Boeri chocolates, jams or used as the base for liqueurs. Served with cinnamon or cloves, they offer an interesting and unusual complement to meat. Production area: Commune of Garbagna and Grue Valley (Province of Alessandria)
Presidium supported by: Curone, Grue and Ossona Valleys Mountain Community, Commune of Garbagna Presidium coordinators: Nicola Piccinini, tel. +39 368 917996 +39 338 9992833 nicola.piccinini@libero.it Massimo Pisacco, tel. +39 338 4392377 massimopisacco@tiscali.it
Gavi Testa in Cassetta Testa in cassetta is a typical cured meat made in the winter from pig head, tongue, muscle and cow heart. These cuts, along with the head, are boiled and then reduced until they form a semi-liquid paste. The mixture is flavored with salt, spices, red pepper, pine nuts, rum and cubes of meat. It is then stuffed into a cow’s intestine and left to rest for a day in a very cold place. Production area: Commune of Gavi (Province of Alessandria) Presidium coordinator: Giovanni Norese, tel. +39 0143 79332 +39 335 5734472 gnorese@idp.it
Heritage Piedmontese Apple Varieties At the start of the last century, thousands of apple varieties were still being cultivated in Piedmont. Since then the development of industrial agriculture has made a cruel selection, with the market preferring foreign apple varieties - bigger, prettier and more adaptable to modern technology. This Presidium is working to save varieties such as Grigia di Torriana, Buras, Runsè, Gamba Fina, Magnana, Dominici, Carla and Calvilla, all aromatic and rustic and definitely viable sources of income, even on the contemporary market.
Production area: Communes of Bibiana, Pinerolo, Cavour, Bricherasio, Osasco (Province of Torino) Communes of Verzuolo, Piasco and Caraglio (Province of Cuneo) Presidium supported by: Turin Provincial Authority, Pellice Valley Mountain Community Presidium coordinators: Franco Turaglio, tel. +39 338 2931730 info@lanicchia.net Dario Martina, tel. +39 0121 541010 - 55620 info@scuolamalva.it
Langan Sheep Tuma In 1950, there were over 45,000 sheep in the Langhe; now there are fewer than 2,500, distributed among a few farms. This Presidium was founded to recover the near-extinct native Langhe Sheep breed and the typical cheese, called tuma d’fé in local dialect, which has been produced in the area for centuries. The small round cheeses, made with raw milk, are consumed fresh after 10-15 days, but can be preserved in glass jars: with this technique, Langan sheep tuma can be consumed all winter long. Production area: Communes of Alta Langa (Province of Cuneo) 11
Presidium coordinators: Lorenzo Conterno, cell. +39 339 6651424 renzoconte@alice.it Piercarlo Adami, cell. +39 335 5757697 segreteriaonaf@libero.it
Macagn
Presidium coordinators: Giovanni Lacolino, tel. +39 340 7691682 slowfood_valsesia@libero.it Giacomo Bergamo, tel. +39 015 737773 +39 335 7227572 agr.cmvmosso@ptb.provincia.biella.it
Mondovì Cornmeal Biscuits
Macagn takes its name from one of the foothills of Monte Rosa. Smaller than the Piedmontese toma, it is a typical mountain cheese made from whole raw cow’s milk. The curd of the cheese is compact, slightly stretchy, with thinly spaced holes. It is straw-white in color when young and tends to become golden yellow with aging. Produced twice a day in the summer, Macagn has a distinctive fragrance, with aromas of pasture and flowers. Production area: mountains in the Central and Eastern areas of the Prealpi Biellesi (Province of Biella) and the mountainous area of Valsesia (Province of Vercelli) Presidium supported by: Mosso Valley Mountain Community, Mountain Community of Valsessera, Cervo la BürschValley Mountain Community, Mountain Community of Valsesia, Association for the Protection of Valli Biellesi and Valsesia Macagn Cheese, Fondazione Cassa Risparmio di Biella, Piedmont Regional Authority
The Presidum’s cornmeal biscuits are produced according to tradition from a mixture of wheat and corn flours, butter, fresh eggs, and sugar. The dough is kneaded into round, oblong or crescent shapes. Yellow and crunchy, these biscuits melt in the mouth, leaving a lingering toasted flavor. They are neither oily nor over-sweet and the grain of the corn flour bran offers a pleasant texture. Production area: Communes of Monregalese (Province of Cuneo) Presidium supported by: Consortium for the protection and promotion of cornmeal biscuits Presidium coordinators: Gianni Ferrero, tel. +39 0174 47296 +39 335 6814854 info@leviedelmonregalese.com Marco Michelis, tel. +39 0174 43818 +39 335 6257010 info@michelis.it
Montébore Montébore is produced in and around a town of the same name near Tortona. Documentation of this cheese dates back to at least 1400. Its shape recalls a tiny wedding cake, with tiers of decreasing size, one atop the other. Legend has it that the shape was modelled on an ancient tower in the town of Montébore. Montébore cheese is made from raw milk: 75% cow and 25% sheep. It has a strong milky 12
Presidia in Italy
In just one century 300,000 plant varieties have become extinct. They are continuing to disappear at the rate of one every six hours.
and buttery flavor with lingering notes of chestnut and herbs. Montébore can be eaten fresh, slightly aged or grated. Production area: Montébore (Commune of Dernice) and Communes in Curone and Borbera Valleys (Province of Alessandria) Presidium coordinators: Giovanni Norese, tel. +39 0143 79332 +39 335 5734472 gnorese@idp.it Roberto Grattone, tel. +39 0143 94131 vallenostra@tiscali.it
Morozzo Capon
Presidium coordinator: Annamaria Molinero, tel. +39 0171 772001 prenotazioni@capponedimorozzo.it
Mountain Castelmagno In 1277, the herders of Castelmagno paid their rent to the Marquis of Saluzzo in cheese. Today, Castelmagno found on the market is produced primarly in dairies, but there are still several breeders who produce it in the mountains according to traditional methods. The complex, ancient technique calls for the curd to be broken into big, walnut-sized lumps that are then left to drain in a cloth that is tied up and hung. The curds are then broken again into cubes, placed in the mold, divided into fine pieces and kneaded with coarse salt. Production area: Commune of Castelmagno (Province of Cuneo) Presidium coordinator: Giorgio Amedeo, tel. +39 338 6261222 giorgioamedeo@hotmail.com
Nizza Monferrato Hunchback The Morozzo Capon has a long black metallic tail Cardoon and glossy brick-red feathers trimmed with blue or green and no crest or wattle. Capons are castrated chickens, and the Morozzo Capon is usually a castrated bionda, or yellow, chicken. Women are in charge of preparing the capron since the operation requires deft, skilled hands. The Morozzo Capon has soft, tender and delicate meat. Purists prefer it boiled and dipped in salt, although it is also used in pies or stuffed. Production area: Communes of Morozzo and surrounding areas (Province of Cuneo) Presidium supported by: Commune of Morozzo, Consortium for the Promotion of Morozzo Capon and Other Traditional Fowls
Grown in sandy soil, these cardoons grow into their unique ‘hunchback’ shape because of a particular cultivation technique: once the plants are tall and vigorous, the cardaroli, or cardoon growers, bend the plants over and cover them with soil. As they seek to regain sunlight, the plants swell and curve, the stems lose all their chlorophyll and become white and tender. The Nizza Monferrato Hunchback Cardoon may also be eaten raw or as an ingredient in one of Piedmont’s greatest dishes, bagna caoda, a warm sauce of olive oil, garlic and anchovies. 13
Production area: Nizza Monferrato and neighbouring area (Province of Asti) Presidium supported by: Asti Provincial Authority, Commune of Nizza Monferrato, Nizza Monferrato regional enoteca
Piedmontese Ox
Like all heritage breed oxen with white coats, this is a very ancient breed. It was only in 1886, however, that spontaneous variation led to the birth of a bull with huge haunches and extremely muscular thighs. This was Presidium coordinators: the progenitor of the so-called Piedmontese Piercarlo Albertazzi, tel. +39 335 5348611 vitello della coscia. At the start of the twentieth info@enotecanizza.it century, there were still 680,000 head, but today Claudio Vaccaneo, tel. +39 0141 793044 the number has dropped to fewer than 300,000. claudio.vaccaneo@libero.it Piedmontese beef is unique in that it has just the right amount of intramuscular fat Piedmontese Blonde Hen and Saluzzo White Hen to make it lean and flavorful. Traditionally the beef is hand-chopped and eaten raw The Piedmontese Blonde Hen has golden-tan with extra-virgin olive oil, salt and a pinch plumage, a tall black tail with metallic highlights, of pepper. a yellow beak and an erect marked crest. Production area: Province of Cuneo The Saluzzo White Hen is similar but all white, tail included. The presidium breeders adhere Presidium coordinators: to a strict protocol that specifies natural feed Sergio Capaldo, tel. +39 335 6770566 and five square meters of open space for each sergio.capaldo@libero.it bird. Traditionally, in Piedmontese restaurants, Mauro Olivero, tel. +39 333 8949421 both birds are cooked alla cacciatora with onions and chopped tomatoes. The meat Poirino Tench is also excellent boiled in its own stock, in aspic, or with salad. A relative of the carp, barbel, chub and bleak, Production area: areas of the provinces the tench is hump shaped with a gold skin hence of Cuneo, Asti and Turin the name gobba dorata, or 'golden humped'. Presidium supported by: Piedmontese Blone Hen, Saluzzo White Hen and Carmagnola Grey Rabbit Consortium Presidium coordinators: Renato Dominici, tel. +39 011 9712673 +39 335 1370749 r.dominici@eataly.it Enrico Carrera, tel. + 39 338 9184729 dr.carrera@tiscali.it
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Presidia in Italy
It has always been raised in the ponds of Pianalto di Poirino, where man-made lakes have existed since the thirteenth century. Soft and flavorful without the taste of soil often typical of poor quality farmed fish, the Presidium tench is an important ingredient in the typical cuisine of the Roero. The classic way to prepare it is in carpione (fried, then marinated in vinegar). Production area: Communes of Pianalto di Poirino (Provinces of Turin, Cuneo and Asti) Presidium coordinator: Giacomo Mosso, tel. +39 0172 575014 +39 335 5851186 giacomo.mosso@cascina-italia.it
Sambucano Lamb
Tortona Strawberry This berry was first selected a century ago from the wild species in the hills surrounding this area. The Tortona Strawberry, a particularly excellent, highly perfumed cultivar, was markedly different from other existing strawberries. Not much bigger than a raspberry, it offers a heady fragrance and a sweet, delicate flavor. The berry is only available ten days out of the year, during the last half of June. In Tortona, the strawberry is eaten whole, sprinkled with sugar and a good Barbera wine. Production area: Commune of Tortona (Province of Alessandria) Presidium supported by: Commune of Tortona, Tortona Strawberry Consortium
Presidium coordinators: The Sambucano breed, a medium to large sized Nicola Piccinini, sheep, has a long, muscular rump and a slender tel. +39 368 917996 - +39 338 9992833 but solid body. The head is small with no horns or nicola.piccinini@libero.it wool and a muzzle reminiscent of a ram’s. Most Patrizia Lodi, tel. +39 0131 817254 Sambucano lambs also have floppy ears and +39 338 6471958 patrizia@carcassola.it white fleece, however some rare specimens have black fleece and a small star-shaped patch Tortona Valleys Salami on the head. This breed is valued for its wool and especially for its meat. Sambucano lamb Pig farming is an integral part of the history is excellent oven-baked or in a pie garnished and peasant culture of the Curone, Grue with Jerusalem artichokes and is featured and Ossona Valleys. These valleys, situated near in Sambucano liver paté with chestnuts Tortona, are circumscribed by Lombardy, Emiliaa delicacy not to be missed. Romagna and Liguria. The traditional products Production area: Stura High Valley (Province of this area include all the most classic repertoire of Cuneo) of Italian pork butchers, but the foremost Presidium supported by: “L’Escaroun” specialty of the area is raw salami, made Sambucano Lamb Consortium by a good number of small-scale, artisan producers and aged naturally in a particularly Presidium coordinators: favorable hilly microclimate that conserves Maura Biancotto, tel. +39 335 7413190 the finished salami so well that less salt m.biancotto@slowfood.it than usual is needed to preserve the meat. Antonio Brignone, tel. +39 0171 955555 Production area: Tortona Valleys (Province brignone@vallestura.cn.it of Alessandria) 15
Presidium supported by: Curone, Grue and Ossone Valleys Mountain Community Presidium coordinators: Massimo Berutti, tel. +39 0131 786198 +39 338 6174622 massimoberutti@libero.it Giuseppe Ballestrasse, tel. +39 3385089584 g.ballestrasse@libero.it
Monviso Valle Bronda Ramassin
ingredient. As purple as an eggplant and shaped like a sausage, Valli Valdesi Mustardela is smooth and soft in the mouth with a spiced, vaguely sweet-and-sour flavor. It is eaten boiled or accompanied by potatoes or polenta. Production area: Pellice Valley, Chisone Valley and Germanasca Valley (Province of Turin) Presidium supported by: Turin Provincial Authority, Pellice Valley Mountain Community
Presidium coordinators: Franco Turaglio, tel. +39 0121 394556 Whether it is referred to as Ramassin, dalmasin +39 338 2951730 info@lanicchia.net or darmasin, many people in Piedmont are familiar with this small, dark and very sweet- Giovanni Michelin Salomon, tel +39 0121 957880 tasting plum. However it is relatively unknown in other regions of Italy. In July when the delicate macelleriagiovanni@tiscali.it fruits are ripe, the trees are hit with long sticks to make the ripe plums fall to the ground. RamassĂŹn are also cultivated in other fruitgrowing areas of Piedmont, but the Bronda Valley (a few kilometers from Saluzzo) boasts the best plums due to its microclimate and extraordinary hilly terrain. Area of production: Bronda Valley and Po Valley (province of Cuneo) Presidium supported by: Ortofruit Italia, Communes of Castellar, Pagno and Brondello Presidium coordinator: Alida Borghino, tel. +39 0175 76214 +39 349 8346099 bordeb@libero.it
Valli Valdesi Mustardela Like all sanguinacci, or blood sausages, Mustardela was developed as a means for utilizing all parts of the pig including the head, throat, tongue and skin. This cured meat is prepared by boiling, deboning and grinding the various parts of the pig and then mixing them with chitlins, onions and leeks sweated in the fat. Blood is the final 16
Presidia in Italy
LOMBARDY Bagolino Bagòss Bagossi are the inhabitants of Bagolino, a small village in the Caffaro Valley in the province of Brescia, and Bagòss is also the name of the cheese produced in the valley. An uncooked curd cheese made with partially skimmed raw milk, Bagòss is a traditional mountain toma with unique characteristics. Wheels are larger than those of normal toma di montagna, or mountain cheeses. Bagolino Bagòss cheeses weigh from 16-18 to 20-22 kilograms. This cheese begins to express all its complexity after at least 10-12 months of aging. Production area: Commune of Bagolino (Province of Brescia) Presidium supported by: Commune of Bagolino, Bagolino Valley Cooperative, Sabbia Valley Mountain Community, Brescia Provincial Authority Presidium coordinators: Massimo Scarlatti, tel. +39 030 2306146 mscarlatti@inwind.it Francesco Stagnoli, tel. +39 0365 904011 segreteria@comune.bagolino.bs.it
Bitto of the “Bitto Valleys”
A third of native cattle, sheep and pig breeds have become extinct or are at risk of extinction.
of pastures; from manual milking, to the use of calècc, ancient stone huts that serve as mountain dairies. Production area: Albaredo and Gerola Valleys, and nearby alpine meadows (Province of Sondrio) Presidium coordinators: Maurizio Vaninetti, tel. +39 0342 614800 info@osteriadelcrotto.it Paolo Ciapparelli, tel. +39 0342 635665 +39 334 3325366 p.ciapparelli@libero.it
Lodi Pannerone Also known as 'white Gorgonzola' (due to its large shape), Lodi Pannerone is one of the very few cheeses in the world that is not salted. The name comes from the word panera, which means 'cream' in local dialect. This cheese is made exclusively from creamy whole milk. Lodi Pannerone typically has wide holes and is consumed fresh: initially sweet and soft, the taste quickly develops bitter almond notes. Production area: Lodi and bordering communes (Province of Lodi)
Bitto cheese is one of the symbols of Lombardy cheese production. This cheese comes from an ancient tradition of high mountain cheesemaking. Slow Food created this Presidium to help augment and maintain the production of Bitto cheese from Alpine meadows. Presidium members are engaged in maintaining and promoting a list of traditional practices: from Presidium coordinator: the rearing of local goats (the cheese is made Roberto Silvestri, tel. +39 02 36546035 with 10-20% goat milk), to the rotation +39 333 4508761 roberto_silvestri_it@yahoo.it
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Saviore Valley Fatulì Fatulì (“small piece” in local dialect), is a very distinctive rare goat cheese still produced by a few cheesemakers using raw milk from the Bionda dell´Adamello goat. The special character of the cheese depends on this breed, which in recent years has been the focus of projects to save it from extinction. The cheese has a cylindrical shape with flat sides, a straw yellow to intense yellow color and compact texture or occasional eyes. The rind is dark and smoked and has characteristic grooves left from the grill where it rests when smoked with burning juniper branches and berries. The Presidium has been set up with the support of the Adamello Regional Park to promote awareness of a quality product and help to defend the Bionda dell´Adamello breed. Production area: Camonica Valley (province of Brescia). Presidium supported by: Adamello Regional Park, Camonica Valley Mountain Community Presidium coordinators: Francesco Amonti, tel. +39 030 2002594 famonti@opera21.it Guido Calvi, tel. +39 0364 324011 guido.calvi@parcoadamello.it
Valchiavenna Goat Violino
Violinos are aged slowly and naturally. Production area: Communes of Chiavenna and Campodolcino in Valchiavenna (Province of Sondrio) Presidium supported by: Sondrio Provincial Authority and Commune of Chiavenna, Valchiavenna Tourism Consortium Presidium coordinators: Teresa Tognetti, tel. +39 0343 32817 +39 335 6265071 teresa.tognetti@virgilio.it Aldo Del Curto, tel. +39 0343 32312
Valtellina Buckwheat At one time furmentun (buckwheat flour) was a basic foodstuff for the rural people of Valtellina. It is a late cereal, sowed in mid-July and harvested in October. A tough crop which is resistant to cold temperatures and high altitudes, until the 1970s it was the most traditional crop in the valley but risked disappearing. The Presidium is reintroducing original Valtellina buckwheat cultivation and at the same time is restoring the traditional stone terraces which for centuries have characterized the landscape of these alpine areas. Area of production: Valtellina (province of Sondrio) Presidium supported by: Commune of Teglio, SlowCooking association
This singular cured meat is made with the leg and shoulder meat of a goat. It is shaped like Presidium coordinator: a violin (or violino, in Italian): the hoof represents Piero Roccatagliata, tel. +39 0342 780152 the neck of the instrument and the muscular +39 348 3414336 furmentun@libero.it mass the body. Native to the Valchiavenna, where the processing and salting of meat are age-old traditions, Valchiavenna Goat Violino weighs from one-and-a-half to three kilograms, depending on the cut of meat used (front shoulder or rear leg). The tastiest, most fragrant 18
Presidia in Italy
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE Aurina Valley Graukäse This ancient farm cheese, almost a “primordial curd”, originates from the Tyrolean Alps and the Alto Adige region, particularly the Aurina valley. Traditionally, local cheesemakers would thoroughly skim cow’s milk from the summer alpine pasturing to make butter. Leftovers were used for Graukäse (‘gray cheese’). In order to make Graukäse, milk is curdled with an acid (no rennet is added) at medium-low temperatures. After the curd is wrapped in linen cloth, it is pressed, broken and put into molds. Over the brief aging period, the molds imbue the outer rind with their color, giving the cheese its name. Production area: Tures and Aurina Valleys from Gais to Casere (Kasern), including the neighboring valleys of Selva dei Molini (Muehlwald), Lappago (Lappach), Rio Bianco (Weissenbach) and Riva di Tures (Rein) Province of Bolzano Presidium supported by: Bolzano Chamber of Commerce, Bolzano Autonomous Province, LeaderPlus, Ahrntal Natur Presidium coordinators: Martin Pircher, tel. +39 0474 678495 despar.pircher@bestofdolomites.it Walter Steger, tel. +39 348 6926073 walter.steger@dnet.it
Banale Ciuighe The history of Banale Ciuighe reflects the extreme poverty of the old Giudicarie Esteriori region. Here families used to sell the best parts of the pig, using only the least desired parts, with the addition of turnips, to make ciuighe. One hundred and fifty years
later, the custom has been preserved and the recipe refined. Today the noble cuts (shoulder, head, belly) are also used with a lower percentage of turnips. Production area: Commune of San Lorenzo in Banale (Province of Trento) Presidium coordinators: Sergio Valentini, tel. +39 0464 461278 +39 348 4020857 info@locandadelletrechiavi.it Nerio Donini, tel. +39 0465 7340670 direttorebrenta@yahoo.it
Casolét Cheese from the Sole, Rabbi and Pejo Valleys The name Casolét comes from the Latin caseulus, meaning small cheese. It is a typical mountain cheese from the Sole, Rabbi and Pejo valleys in Trentino: uncooked, soft and made form whole milk. It used to be made only in autumn when the cattle had already come down from the alpine pastures and not much milk was being produced; it was very much a domestic cheese, eaten mainly during the winter months. Production Area: Sole, Rabbi and Pejo valleys (province of Trento) Presidium supported by: Trento Chamber of Commerce Presidium coordinators: Sergio Valentini, tel. +39 0464 461278 +39 348 4020857 info@locandadelletrechiavi.it Adriano Dalpez, tel. +39 0461 382318
Grigio Alpina Ox Today, numbers of the grigio alpina breed of cattle are reduced to a few thousand heads and, in 2004, the European Union officially recognized that it was threatened with extinction. The population of grigio alpina 19
cattle is concentrated in the province of Bolzano. It is also present in the province of Trento and in small numbers throughout the Alpine Chain. It is a rustic, frugal animal, suited to the most difficult grazing conditions and has a high yield of milk which is excellent for making cheese, or drunk fresh, and meat. Its coat is a pale silvery color with darker rings around the eyes, the neck and on the shoulders and flanks. There are more than 1,200 breeders in Italy – 900 in the province of Bolzano – all of whom belong to the Associazione Nazionale Allevatori Bovini di Razza Grigio Alpina, which also keeps a genealogical record of the breed. Production area: Alpine areas in the provinces of Bolzano and Trento Presidium supported by: Bolzano Chamber of Commerce, Autonomous Province of Bolzano, LeaderPlus Presidium coordinators: Linda Nano, tel.+39 349 3747360 info@selectedfood.com Christina Müller, tel. +39 0471 063850 info@grigioalpina.it
But ere our metal cleave An unknown plain, heed we to forelearn The winds and varying temper of the weather, The culture of our fathers and the nature of the spot, What every region yields, and what denies. Here springs corn, there more luxuriantly springs the grape, There earth is green with tender growth of trees And grass growing unbidden. (Virgil, The Georgics, Book I)
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Presidia in Italy
Moena Puzzone Twice a day, mountain dairies in the heart of the Dolomites send milk to the cheese factory in Predazzo that produces Puzzone. Only forms bearing the letter ‘M’ belong to the Presidium. The secret of Puzzone is the aging, during which each form is washed once a week, from a minimum of 90 days to 16 months. All this gives the cheese an intense, pungent perfume - hence the name Puzzone, which means 'stinky', and its unmistakable red rind. Production area: Communes of Predazzo and Moena (Province of Trento) Presidium supported by: Trentingrana Concast Presidium coordinators: Paola Bruzzone, tel. +39 333 6529706 berlocca@yahoo.it Giampaolo Gaiarin, tel. +39 335 6674256 gaiarin.giampaolo@trentingrana.it
Non Valley Mortandela Families in the Non Valley used to buy a piglet at the All Saints’Fair and raise it for twelve months on potatoes, bran, leftover vegetables and hay. The pork from the animals was used to make Mortandela, one of the most typical cured meats of the valley. This traditional delicacy is made by deboning the pork (from which the fat and gristle have been removed), mincing it and mixing it with spices. The meat is then flattened out, placed on wood boards, and smoked. Production area: Non Valley (Province of Trento) Presidium supported by: Trento Chamber of Commerce
Presidium supported by: District of Primiero, Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino Natural Park, Primiero and Vanoi Valleys Cassa Rurale Bank Presidium coordinators: Antonella Faoro, tel. +39 349 5339496 anto@primiero.net Alberto Bettega, tel. +39 0439 62941 - 64749 info@caseificioprimiero.com
Trentino Luganega Luganega- made of lean pork, cured lard, salt, ground pepper and garlic - is the Trentino salame Presidium coordinators: par excellence. There are a number of varieties Sergio Valentini, tel. +39 0464 461278 and the further one travels north towards +39 348 4020857 info@locandadelletrechiavi.it the Alto Adige, the more the Luganega reflects Massimo Corrà, tel. +39 0463 536129 the South Tyrol smoking tradition. Today each macelleriacorra@tin.it valley has its own variation on this relatively simple theme. Some add beef, goat or mutton Primiero Mountain Butter as well as various spices, depending on personal recipes. Since the times of the Venetian Republic, Venice’s Production area: Province of Trento butter came from the mountain pastures Presidium supported by: Trento Chamber of the Primiero area, beneath the Dolomite peaks of Commerce of the Pale di San Martino (where it is called botìro in local dialect). Presidium coordinators: Venetian merchants would come up here Sergio Valentini, tel. +39 0464 461278 to buy botìro di Primiero. It was of such +39 348 4020857 info@locandadelletrechiavi.it outstanding quality that local mountain dairies Gilberto Belli tel. +39 335 8022712 used all the cream for making butter and cheese, info@salumeriabelli.it low fat was only a residual product. Venosta Valley Ur-Paarl Pats of butter were made in wooden molds carved with wonderful floral designs which are Ur-Paarl is the oldest type of traditional bread still jealously guarded by local producers. in the Venosta Valley, made from locally A local dairy has revived butter production cultivated rye, spelt flour, yeast starter at a mountain dairy so the people of these and herbs gathered from valley pastures, mountains can once again enjoy a product including wild fennel, cumin and Trigonella that brought so much wealth in the past. caerulea. Traditionally, the bread is shaped like Area of production: District of Primiero a flattened number ‘8’, made by combining two (Province of Trento) round loaves - hence the bread’s name, Paarl, 21
which means ‘couple’. The origins of the recipe for Ur-Paarl can be traced to Benedictine monks from the Monte Maria monastery in Burgusio who up until few years ago produced the bread regularly. Production area: High Venosta Valley (Province of Bolzano) Presidium supported by: Autonomous Province of Bolzano Ministry of Economy and Finance, Chamber of Commerce of Bolzano Presidium coordinators: Karin Huber, tel. +39 335 7036533 karinhuber@dnet.it Richard Schwienbacher, tel. +39 0473 795327 - +39 335 7495352 richard.schwienbacher@ultnerbrot.it
Vezzena Vezzena cheese is made like those Alpine cheeses produced from partially-skimmed milk, but its unique flavor and characteristics can be attributed to the herbs of the Lavarone plateau and to the extended aging of the cheese. Presidium Vezzena is produced in summer with milk from mountain dairies. It can be recognized by the ‘M’ inscribed on its wheels. After a year or more of aging, the eyes disappear and the bright yellow body develops a light graininess. The aromas grow more complex with pleasant hints of grass and spice. Production area: Communes of the Lavarone Plateau, Vezzena and Folgaria (Province of Trento) Presidium supported by: Trentingrana Concast Presidium coordinators: Andrea Miorandi, tel. +39 329 7392896 andrea.miorandi@gmail.com Giampaolo Gaiarin, tel. +39 335 6674256 gaiarin.giampaolo@trentingrana.it
75% of glob al fish sto cks risk disa ppe arin g if urg ent act ion is not tak en.
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Presidia in Italy
VENETO Alpago Lamb A small to medium sized native breed that is hornless with tiny ears, the Alpago Lamb has a ram-like profile with unusual dark spots on its head. Its fleece is dense, with fine, wavy wool. These lambs are raised in a semi-natural state and their feed is supplemented with local hay and cereal meal. The meat of the Alpago Lamb is extremely tender with just the right balance of fat and lean, and is flavored with aromatic herbs. Production area: Communes of Alpago (Province of Belluno) Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority, Mountain Community of Puos d’Alpago Presidium coordinators: Fabio Pogacini, tel. +39 0437 937149 slowfood.bl@gmail.com Alessandro Fullin, tel. +39 335 6313705 alessandro.salce@tiscali.it
Biancoperla Corn Until the post-World War II years, it was customary to make white polenta in the Polesine and Treviso districts of the Veneto region. Down on the plain, it was considered finer than the rustic yellow polenta typical of the mountains. The corn used was and is (though increasingly less so) the local Biancoperla variety. The cobs are tapered with large pearl-white kernels. White polenta is excellent served with fish, such as marson, schie, moleche, masenete, shrimp and baccalà, or salt cod. Production area: Provinces of Treviso, Padua, Rovigo and Venice
Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Danilo Gasparini, tel. +39 328 3360654 gasparda@tin.it Renato Ballan, tel. +39 0423 490615 posta@istitutoagrariosartor.it
Goose in Onto Veneto farmers once bred varieties of grey geese and geese with grey and white patches, which were eventually replaced by the great Romagnola white goose. With these geese they made salami, cured ham and “Goose in Onto”, a preserve made from all parts of the bird. Prepared by every household, it was a good way of preserving the goose meat for several months. After slaughtering the goose, the meat is cut into small pieces and packed under goose fat in terracotta or glass jars. Whenever needed, a small quantity can be used to make sauces or roasts. Production area: Provinces of Treviso, Padova and Vicenza Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Luigino Poloni, tel. + 39 0423 858316 gigiolupo@yahoo.it Manuela Tessari, tel. +39 0438 933021 info@mondragon.it
Grappa Mountain Morlacco Cheese In the pastures of Mount Grappa, cheesemakers once produced a soft cow’s milk cheese, low in fat, with an uncooked curd that was named after their native region in the Balkans: Morlakia. Today, Grappa Morlacco cheese 23
is once again produced on Mount Grappa with skimmed milk from the evening’s milking mixed with whole milk from the morning. After 15 days of aging, the cheese is ready for consumption, but it can be left to age for up to three months. Production area: Mount Grappa Massif (Provinces of Treviso, Belluno and Vicenza) Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority, A.Pro.La.V.
in Grumolo delle Abbadesse has tiny kernels, and its exceptional quality can be attributed to the area’s soil and water. This rice swells up considerably when cooked, the kernels remaining intact and distinct, while absorbing cooking liquids. Production area: Commune of Grumolo delle Abbadesse (Province of Vicenza) Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority
Presidium coordinators: Luigino Poloni, tel. + 39 0423 858316 gigiolupo@yahoo.it Bruno Bernardi, tel. +39 0422 422040 direzione@aprolav.it
Presidium coordinators: Mauro Pasquali, tel. +39 347 3065710 info@slowfoodvi.it Maria Luisa Teso, tel. +39 0444 265033 segreteria@comune.grumolodelleabbadesse.vi.it
Grumolo delle Abbadesse Rice
High Mountain Agordo Cheese
This rice was introduced to Grumolo delle Abbadesse, a small village between Vicenza and Padua, by Benedictine nuns, and has been grown there since the sixteenth century. These nuns also reclaimed the local marshland and built canals, many of which are still in use. The Vialone Nano rice variety grown
In this particular area of the Veneto region, there are many alpine meadows still in use for pasturage and for making rustic cheeses. The cheeses produced here are classic examples of Alpine skimmed-milk cheeses, made from cow milk with a percentage of goat or sheep milk. Compared to the cheeses of other areas, this high pasture cheese made in the Agordo area is slightly smaller. It is intended for long aging in natural caves, where the cheeses rest for six to eight months. Production area: Agordo’s area (Province of Belluno) Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority, Agordine Mountain Community Presidium coordinators: Fabio Pogacini, tel. +39 0437 937149 slowfood.bl@gmail.com Alessandro De Col, tel. +39 0437 62390 forestale.cma@agordino.bl.it
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Presidia in Italy
Malga Monte Veronese The origins of cheesemaking traditions in the Lessinia region reach back to medieval times, when Cimbri shepherds moved there from the Asiago plateau. The Lessini Mountain’s traditional semisoft Mount Veronese cow milk cheese has been granted PDO status. Until recently, the cheese made from the precious milk of summer pastures was not properly valued; on the contrary, it was usually mixed with the milk produced on the plains. For this reason, the few remaining malghe (shepherds' huts) were at risk of disappearing - a loss that would have had grave consequences for the mountain ecosystem. The Malga Mount Veronese Presidium is working with cheese made from milk of cows grazed in high mountain pastures. Production area: Lessini Mountains and Mount Baldo (Province of Verona) Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority, Monte Veronese Dop Consortium Presidium coordinators: Marco Brogiotti, tel. +39 335 6371073 marco@marcobrogiotti.it Paola Giagulli, tel. +39 045 8014372 paola.giagulli@monteveronese.it
Moleche In the Venice lagoon, the green soft shell crabs, or shore crabs (Carcinus aesturarii) are at the center of an activity unique in Italy and perhaps in the world, a production half way between fishing and extensive breeding. The term moleche refers to soft shell crabs that have lost their hard shell while molting. During this delicate phase occurring during the spring (April and May) and autumn (October and November), the crabs are tender and soft, hence the name Moleche from the Italian molle, soft. Moleche are cooked alive in boiling oil
after they are lightly dusted with flour. Production area: Venice Lagoon Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority Presidium Coordinators: Rebecca Roveda, tel. + 39 349 4794489 rebeccaroveda2@hotmail.com Luigi Vidal, tel. +39 041 730076 +39 335 323172 coop.sanmarco@libero.it
Paduan Hen The Paduan Hen, which ranges in color from black to white, gold, tan or silver, has a whiskered visage, with a long beard and plumage extending from the bird’s crown over its eyes. This hen was probably brought to Italy by Marquis Giacomo Dondi Dall’Orologio, a fourteenth-century Paduan doctor and astronomer, who returned from a trip to Poland with a few specimens with which to adorn his gardens. The Paduan Hen is used to prepare the classic dish gallina a la canavéra. Production area: Province of Padua Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority, Chamber of Commerce of Padua 25
Presidium coordinators: Gianni Breda, tel. +39 049 619814 giannibreda@tin.it Gabriele Baldan, tel. +39 049 720651 sbalengo@libero.it
Sant’Erasmo Violet Artichoke Tender, meaty, elongated and thorny with violet leaves, the Sant’Erasmo Violet Artichoke is cultivated on the island of the Venice lagoon of the same name. Growers transport their crop by boat to the Rialto and Tronchetto markets. Eaten raw, the castraure, or first sprouts, are a real delicacy, dipped in batter and fried, or cooked in butter and served cold with lemon, often accompanied by schie, tiny prawns native to the lagoon. Production area: Commune of Venice, island of Sant’Erasmo and the islands of Vignole, Mazzorbo and Lio Piccolo Presidium supported by: Veneto Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Silvano Sguoto, tel. +39 348 4705664 silvano.sguoto@dlfve.it Carlo Finotello, tel. +39 041 5282497 +39 347 0594687 carlo76@tele2.it
Aged Asiago cheese It is well-known on the Asiago plateau that “Good cheese is made north of the campanile”. It is what people say whenever conversation turns to pastures and milk: you make cheese in the mountains, using milk from cows grazing on the alpine pastures. And the plateau certainly has a lot of alpine pastures, with dozens of mountain dairies supplied by thousands of animals. The Presidium brings together a group of producers who only process summer milk and produce an outstanding matured Asiago (aged for at least 18 months). Production area: Altopiano dei Sette Comuni (Asiago Plateau), i.e. the municipalities of Asiago, Conco, Enego, Foza, Galli, Lusiana, Roana, Rotzo (Province of Vicenza). Presidium supported by: Asiago Cheese Consortium, Veneto Region Presidium coordinators: Mauro Pasquali, tel. +39 347 3065710 info@slowfoodvi.it Dino Panozzo, tel. +39 0424 63848 panozzodino@virgilio.it
Sma ll far mer s are losi ng the ir mos t pre ciou s ass et, see ds.
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Presidia in Italy
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Formadi Frant This preparation of humble origins was created to salvage defective cheeses unsuitable for aging. Three or four cheeses from different stages of aging are cut up and mixed with salt and pepper (and sometimes other spices). The mixture is kneaded with milk and/or cream. Afterwards, the mass is collected in a cloth and put in a cylindrical or square wooden mold to age for a period of 30 – 40 days. It has a particularly pungent aroma and tastes both sweet and spicy. Production area: Carnia (provice of Udine) Presidium supported by: Cirmont (International Mountain Research Centre), Carnia Mountain Community, Cividale Bank Presidium coordinators: Laura Rebagliati, tel. +39 349 3526994 lreba@libero.it Pietro Gortani, tel +39 0432 995365 +39 335 5951446 gortani.food@libero.it
Fagagna Pestàt Pestàt, a Friuli tradition particular of the town of Fagagna, is a small salami made of minced lard and enriched with finely chopped carrots, celery, parsley, onion, sage, rosemary, thyme, marjoram, and garlic. It is still produced today but in limited quantities from November to February. It is used for cooking meat or to enhance the flavors in soups. As pestàt, the taste of vegetables could be preserved until the winter or when left unaltered, up to a year. Production area: Commune of Fagagna (provice of Udine) Presidium supported by: Commune
of Fagagna, San Daniele Agricultural Park, Udine Chamber of Commerce Presidium coordinators: Laura Rebagliati, tel. +39 349 3526994 lreba@libero.it Luigina Missana, tel. +39 338 5081466 casalecjanor@hotmail.com
Pitina The peasants of Pordenone once preserved mutton, goat meat and doe venison for the winter in the form of round, cured meats called Pitina. The meat was minced and flavored with salt, garlic, black pepper, rosemary or wild fennel and juniper berries, shaped into balls, dipped in corn flour and smoked in the fogher, the typical valley fireplace. Pitina is usually eaten raw after at least a fortnight’s aging but is also excellent cooked. Production area: Tramontina Valley and Cellina Valley (Province of Pordenone) Presidium supported by: San Giorgio and Meduno Credit Cooperative Bank Presidium coordinators: Massimo Zecchin, tel. +39 335 6353176 massimozecchin@katamail.com Filippo Bier, tel. +39 0427 86189 info@pitina.com
Radìc di Mont During the month of May, when the snow has receded, mountain shepherds venture some thousand meters high up in the Alps to gather the tenderest wild chicory. While in scientific nomenclature this variety is known as Cicerbita alpina, in Carnia, it is known as radic di mont or radic dal glaz. Even today these foragers, with their cloth sacks or baskets, go 27
streaked skin, while inside, its white cloves are securely attached in a ring formation. Its lack of internal layers of cloves is peculiar, but typical of other varieties. Resia Garlic once flourished in trade, reaching markets even in Lubjana and Vienna. Production area: Resia Valley (Province of Udine) Presidium supported by: Cirmont (International Mountain Research Center), Prealpi Giulie Natural Park, Commune of Resia
up the mountains to gather this delicacy in spring. The shoots are preserved in oil and are an excellent complement to cured venison, carne salada (cured salted meat) or smoked ham with juniper of Sauris. Production area: Carnia Alps above altitudes of a thousand meters (Province of Udine) Presidium supported by: Cirmont (International Mountain Research Centre) Presidium coordinators: Laura Rebagliati, tel. +39 349 3526994 lreba@libero.it Manuela Croatto, tel. +39 0433 467124 cirmont@cirmont.it
Resia Garlic Resia Garlic, called strok in Resian dialect, is a variety native to the Resia Valley. As a result of its isolated position, the Resia Valley has managed to preserve a unique and original culture and language, derived from early Slavic dialects, as well as an interesting heritage of plant biodiversity. The medium-sized bulb is enveloped in a pink28
Presidia in Italy
Presidium coordinators: Manuela Croatto, tel. +39 0433 467124 cirmont@cirmont.it Cristina Buttolo, tel. +39 0433 53001 resia@com-resia.regione.fvg.it
LIGURIA Albenga Violet Asparagus This asparagus with large spears and intense violet color is unique to Liguria. Albenga Violet Asparagus is cultivated completely manually and the harvest takes place from mid-March until the beginning of June. Soft and buttery, not fibrous like other varieties, this asparagus is excellent boiled al dente and dipped in extra-virgin Taggiasca olive oil or as an accompaniment to more subtly flavored dishes, such as boiled, steamed or baked fish, white meat or refined sauces. Production area: plain of Albenga (Province of Savona) Presidium coordinators: Alessandro Scarpa, tel. +39 0182 583857 sandro.shoe@libero.it Marisa Montano, tel. +39 0182 931059
Badalucco, Conio and Pigna Beans The main differences between these three bean types, cultivated on terraces inland from Imperia, are their shapes and sizes. Pigna beans are kidney-shaped and slightly larger than Conio and Badalucco, while the other two are oval-shaped and smaller. All are fleshy, soft and delicate, excellent fresh or dried. These beans are best boiled and served with extra-virgin olive oil. The most typical local recipe pairs these bean varieties with stewed goat. Production area: Communes of Badalucco, Montalto Ligure, Castel Vittorio, Pigna and the Village of Conio in the Commune of Borgomaro (Province of Imperia) Presidium supported by: Badalucco, Conio and Pigna Beans Consortium
Presidium coordinators: Piero Arnaudo, tel. +39 0183 64630 +39 338 7394944 arnaudopiero@libero.it Fausto Noaro, tel. +39 335 6511026 fausto.noaro@coldiretti.it
Brigasca Sheep Tomas The Brigasca sheep is a local breed whose name is linked to the border territory between Liguria, Piedmont and Provence. Descended from the Frabosana breed and likely crossbred with Langhe sheep, the Brigasca is a rustic animal, perfectly adapted to the traditional rearing system of a minimum of six months in alpine pastures. With this milk, three different kinds of cheeses are still produced: Sora, Toma and Brus. All are made with techniques and tools bound to the ancient tradition of transhumance. Production area: Imperia Valleys and mountain pastures near the French border Presidium coordinators: Piero Arnaudo, tel. +39 0183 64630 +39 338 7394944 arnaudopiero@libero.it Maurizio Bazzano, tel. +39 019 599767 mauriziobazzano.apasv@quipo.it
Dried Calizzano and Murialdo Chestnuts The technique of drying chestnuts in tecci, or small stone huts with pine roofs, was once common throughout the Ligurian Apennines and Piedmontese valleys and still survives in the Bormida Valley. The chestnuts are smoked for about two months over low fires fueled by chestnut husks. They are either eaten dried or used as ingredients for biscotti, preserves and ice cream. At Christmas, it is traditional to eat viette, dried chestnuts soaked in water for five hours. 29
Production area: High Bormida Valley (Province of Savona)
Presidium supported by: Liguria Regional Authority, Perinaldo local authority
Presidium coordinators: Gian Pietro Meinero, tel. +39 019 554704 meinero@alice.it Federico Santamaria, tel. +39 019 7906065 +39 335 7708025 info@santamaria-sv.it
Presidium coordinators: Luciano Barbieri, tel. +39 0184 996162 +39 338 2882040 lucienbarbieri@fastwebnet.it Francesco Guglielmi, tel. +39 0184 672234 francescoguglielmi@alice.it
Noli Anchovies
Savona Chinotto
Called cicciarelli in Italian, these anchovies are known as lussi or lussotti in Noli dialect. These anchovies have always been fished using sweep nets, called sciabica, an exclusively in-shore fishing technique. One boat floats over the fish, while another surrounds them with the net, creating a horseshoe shape. Small, tapered and silver in color, cicciarelli are excellent prepared in carpione and fried. Production area: Communes of Finale Ligure, Noli and Sportorno (Province of Savona)
This small citrus evergreen plant of Chinese origin has grown on the Savona coast since the 16th century. Its limbs yield an incredible quantity of flowers and fruit for their diminutive size. With time, clusters of Chinotto turn from brilliant green to orange, releasing their own unique, intense perfume. The small, somewhat bitter, thick-skinned Chinotto keeps for a remarkably long time and is eaten either candied or with Maraschino liqueur. Production area: Coastal area from Varazze to Finale Ligure (Province of Savona) Presidium supported by: Commune of Savona
Presidium coordinators: Attilio Olivieri, tel. +39 340 9007618 attilio.olivieri@tin.it Giuseppe Lepore, tel. +39 019 850605 giuseppelepore@tin.it
Perinaldo Artichoke Originally from Provence and introduced by Napoleonic troops passing through Italy, this product resists low temperatures and drought and does not require chemical treatments. The consortium comprises nine producers who grow an artichoke variety distinguished by its spineless purple heads, picked from local plants between May and June in the Perinaldo area. Production rules control growing methods and guarantee traceability. Production area: Perinaldo (Province of Imperia) 30
Presidia in Italy
Presidium coordinators: Vincenzo Ricotta, tel. +39 335 381121 vricotta@tiscalinet.it Danilo Pollero, tel. +39 335 6230829 danilopollero2@alice.it
Vessalico Garlic
EMILIA ROMAGNA
Vessalico, a tiny village in the High Arroscia Valley, is home to a very ancient variety of garlic. Cultivation is entirely manual and harvested bulbs are woven into long, intricately-laced networks, called reste. Intensely flavored, with a slight spiciness and a delicate aroma, Vessalico Garlic can be easily conserved. This garlic variety is the essential ingredient in one of the area’s most typical dishes: ajè, a mayonnaise made with extra-virgin olive oil and crushed garlic. Production area: Arroscia Valley (Province of Imperia) Presidium supported by: Mountain Community of High Arroscia Valley and Provincial Authority of Imperia
Cervia Artisan Sea Salt
Presidium coordinators: Piero Arnaudo, tel. +39 0183 64630 +39 338 7394944 arnaudopiero@libero.it Roberto Marini, tel. +39 0183 382054 +39 338 6710534 roberto48@libero.it
The origins of the Cervia saltworks are lost to history. Some have attributed their construction to Etruscans, others to Greek colonies (Cervia’s former name, Ficocle, supports the Greek hypothesis). One thing is certain: salt production was already thriving in this area in Roman times. In fact, it began with a single small basin, the Camillone saltworks, which continues to produce superior salt using ancient methods to this day. Production area: Commune of Cervia (Province of Ravenna) Presidium supported by: Society of Cervia Saltworks Park, Po Delta Regional Park, EmiliaRomagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Mauro Zanarini, tel. +39 0544 530744 mauro.zanarini@rb-bevande.it Oscar Turroni, tel. +39 0544 977592 +39 338 9507741 info@salinadicervia.it
Classic Mortadella The Presidum’s Classic Mortadella is made from pork from heavy Italian pigs and a minimum of preservatives. It is flavored with salt, black pepper grains, ground white pepper, mace, coriander and crushed garlic. It is then cooked in ovens at a central temperature of 75 -77°C. The casing is made strictly of pigs’ bladders. When sliced, the meat is not red and pinkish like the industrial variety, but pale brown with much more complex aromas. Production area: Province of Bologna and communes of Ferrara area Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority 31
Presidium coordinator: Alberto Fabbri, tel. +39 051 6830187 centoggi@virgilio.it
Cocomerina Pear The rare Cocomerina, or ‘little watermelon’, Pear has pulp that becomes an intense red when harvested late in the season. Fragrant, fragile and difficult to conserve, the Cocomerina Pear is ideal for jam, but few trees remain, and the pear is at risk of extinction. An association has been created to save this heirloom variety, which gathers pears every year and produces excellent jams from this fruit. Production area: Upper Valley of Savio, Ville di Montecoronaro and other areas in the communes of Verghereto and Bagno di Romagna (Province of ForlĂŹ - Cesena) Presidium supported by: Mountain Community of the Cesenate Apennines, EmiliaRomagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Gianpiero Giordani, tel. +39 0547 361728 +39 348 7682402 gianpierogiordani@libero.it Manuela Biserni, tel. +39 338 2971945 gia.ros@libero.it
Corno alle Scale Char A relative of the fario trout and the Alpine char, the Corno alle Scale Char is named for the Corno alle Scale Regional Park, a small nature reserve that bridges the Tuscan and Emilian Appenines. This char has white-edged fins and a brown back with yellow, olive-green or red stripes fringed with blue. Raised in spring water (without the addition of antibiotics or other chemicals), it has firm white flesh. Production area: Commune of Lizzano in Belvedere (Province of Bologna) 32
Presidia in Italy
Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Roberto Ferranti, tel. +39 051 522516 humberts@tin.it Giuliana Ori, tel. +39 0534 51291 +39 348 3036696 ilfondaccio@libero.it
Mariola Mariola is one of the most traditional cured sausages of the Parma, Piacenza and Cremona plains. It is made with the leftovers of the pig, after the neck and shoulder have been processed into cured meats such as culatello. Mariola comes boiled or raw. The presidium promotes raw Mariola from Piacenza. Aged before consumption, it has a complex musky scent, with a pleasant hint of mushrooms. It melts in the mouth and leaves a lingering flavor. Production area: area from Piacenza hills to Parma plain (Province of Piacenza) Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Luisella Verderi, tel. +39 0523 306056 +39 348 3844513 luisella@sinergia-pc.com Domenico Salini, tel. +39 0523 91610 info@fratellisalini.it
Modenese White Cow The White Padana cow, named Modenese in the past, derives from the Red Reggiana, from which it began to depart at the end of the nineteenth century. Today it is bred primarily for milk production but is also good for meat. The breed is recognizable by its intense white mantel, black hooves and muzzle and black tipped horns. Male adults reach
a weight of more than a ton while the females no more than 650 kg. The milk of the Modenese White Cow is excellent for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano. The presidium’s objective is to reach a high quality production of Parmigiano PDO made only from the milk of the Modenese White Cow and to also highlight the qualities of the breed's meat. Production area: Province of Modena Presidium supported by: Provincial Authority of Modena, Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Antonio Cherchi, tel. +39 059 216969 antonio.cherchi@studio-professionisti.it Maurizio Nascimbeni, tel. +39 335 5353895 nasci_mauri@libero.it
Mora Romagnola Pig Romagna’s native pig breed, the Mora Romagnola, once risked extinction. In 1949 22 million head grazed throughout Italy, but recently the figure has dropped to fewer than 15. This pig has dark brown skin, almondshaped eyes and long tusks. Like many traditional breeds, Mora Romagnola Pigs are sturdy and fatten well and are ideal for outdoor conditions. The pig’s flavorful meat is soft and dense, perfect for culatello and spalla cruda. Production area: Provinces of Ravenna, Forlì-Cesena and Rimini Presidium supported by: Emilia Romagna Regional Authority, Co.P.AF
Romagnola Cow In 1953, there were around half a million Romagnola cows in Italy, grazing from the Veneto to the Marche. Today only around 15,000 of the previous thousands remain in the historical region of the five Romagnola valleys of Savio, Rabbi, Montone, Bisente and Tramasso. Recognizable by their grey-white coats, they are impressively muscular with strong robust legs. The females have black, lyre-shaped horns, while the males’ horns are half moon-shaped. Romagnola cows are more resistant to the elements than any other white breed and thus usually graze outdoors. Their meat is also excellent - particularly the cutlets, fatty and flavorful, which are comparable to those of the more famous Chianina breed. Production area: Province of Forlì-Cesena Presidium supported by: Emilia Romagna Regional Authority, Mountain Community of Acquacheta, Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona and Campigna National Parks
Presidium coordinators: Lamberto Albonetti, tel. +39 347 3497668 laslowfooder@gmail.com Cesare Dacci, tel. +39 0546 86039 +39 339 3190764 consorzi576@copaf.191.it
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Presidium coordinators: Gabriele Locatelli, tel. +39 0543 970562 +39 380 5024260 g.locatelli@comunita-montana-acquacheta.fc.it Pietro Tassinari, tel. +39 0543 956818 +39 334 3598353 azagr.prato@libero.it
with hints of chestnut and a slight note of pepper. Production area: Plains of Parma (Province of Parma) Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority
Salama da Sugo
Presidium coordinators: Alberto Fabbri, tel. +39 051 6830187 centoggi@virgilio.it Massimo Spigaroli, tel. +39 0524 96136 info@cavallinobianco.it
The Salama da Sugo, or salamina, as the people of Ferrara call it, is a refined, cured meat with an exotic flavor. It combines the potent aromas of the spices used with the meaty flavor of the pork and the fruitiness of red wine. When it is ready for cooking, it is boiled on a string and wrapped in linen to prevent it from touching the sides of the pan. To enhance its strong, almost pungent taste, it is served on a bed of mashed potatoes or pumpkin. Production area: Communes of the Province of Ferrara (except those on the Adriatic coast) Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Alberto Fabbri, tel. +39 051 6830187 centoggi@virgilio.it Sergio Natali, tel. +39 0532 44222 s.natal@tin.it
Tosco-Romagnolo Apennine Raviggiolo This rare cheese has been made for centuries in the valleys of the Romagna Apennines from the milk of local cows by draining curdled milk and salting its surface, all without breaking the curd. In the ForlĂŹ valleys, a part of which extends into the Foreste Casentinesi National Park, some dairymen still make this cheese with raw milk. Ravviggiolo is produced only from October to March and does not keep for more than four days. This cheese is buttery and white, with a delicate, sweet flavor. Production area: Communes of ToscoRomagnolo Apennine (Province of ForlĂŹ-Cesena)
Spalla Cruda In most Italian regions, pork shoulder is ground in a mixture used to make salami and cotechini. In the province of Parma, however, it is regarded as a superb cured meat, both with its bone and without. Preparing and aging this meat for 16 to 20 months is a delicate process. The presidium is working to enhance the profile of Spalla Cruda on the bone, which is at risk of extinction. When it is well cured, it is absolutely extraordinary: sweet and fragrant, 34
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Mul tina tion als are pat ent ing mor e pro duc tive see ds whi ch imp ove rish soil s and req uire mas sive use of fer tiliz ers and pes tici des .
Presidium supported by: Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona and Campigna National Parks, Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Lamberto Albonetti, tel. +39 347 3497668 laslowfooder@gmail.com Lorenzo Cucchi, tel. +39 339 8328061 lory.cucchi@alice.it
Traditional Marinated Comacchio Valleys Eel The first factories for producing marinated eels were built in the Po delta in the 18th century. Up until 1956, one company in Comacchio, hosting many employees, was still in operation. The eels were brought there live in vine baskets called bolaghe in local dialect - and were roasted in the factory's dozen fireplaces. The Presidium has helped recover this ancient product made by spit-roasting the eels and conserving them in wooden jars packed with brine. The secret to the flavor of the Marinated Comacchio Eel lies in the quality of the eels themselves. Production area: Comacchio Valleys, Po Delta Regional Park (Provinces of Ferrara and Ravenna) Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority, Emilia-Romagna Po Delta Regional Park
an extensive and delicate processing procedure. The presidium has reunited the few producers who still cure the meat according to a strict traditional technique, aging it without refrigeration for at least 18 months either in natural environments or in ancient cantinas in the traditional Parmesan Polesine region. Production area: Communes of Polesine, Busseto, Zibello, Soragna, Roccabianca, San Secondo Parmense, Sissa and Colorno (Province of Parma) Presidium supported by: Emilia-Romagna Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Alberto Fabbri, tel. +39 051 6830187 centoggi@virgilio.it Massimo Spigaroli, tel. +39 0524 96136 info@cavallinobianco.it
Presidium coordinators: Alberto Fabbri, tel. +39 051 6830187 centoggi@virgilio.it Gianni Cavallini, tel. +39 0533 81159 giannicavallini@parcodeltapo.it
Zibello Culatello One of Italy’s most highly regarded and rarest cured meats, Zibello Culatello is produced from the finest parts of the pig through 35
TUSCANY
Bazzone Prosciutto
Artisan Pontremoli Testarolo
The name Bazzone refers to the shape of this prosciutto, which is particularly elongated Pontremoli testaroli are cooked in traditional red- and resembles an especially pronounced chin hot cast iron baking trays (testi). bazzo in local dialect. The pigs are grown Apart from using native wheat grown in a semi-wild state and are then fed with spelt, in the Zeri mountains to make the flour, apples, pears, chestnuts, acorns and scotta, this testarolo is distinguished from the common or leftovers from area cheese production. The resulting rosy-colored prosciutto is one found throughout the Lunigiana, unctuously delicate, offering a musky scent which is cooked on steel plates. The difference of acorns and chestnuts. This ham is best enjoyed is immediately evident to the eye: the artisan with Garfagnana potato bread. product is full of holes due to evaporation Production area: Communes of Media Valle of water from the dough, it is thin, soft and light. Testarolo is cooked like a normal pasta del Serchio and Garfagnana (Province of Lucca) Presidium supported by: Mountain with pesto, while once it was served with pecorino or parmesan mixed with chopped Community of Media Valle del Serchio basil and olive oil. Presidium coordinators: Production Area: Commune of Pontremoli Giordano Andreucci, tel. +39 335 8258803 and neighboring communes (Province of Massa slowfoodgarfagnana@libero.it Carrara) Rolando Bellandi, tel. +39 0583 77008 Presidium supported by: Commune +39 320 8971964 info@anticanorcineria.it of Pontremoli, Province of Massa Carrara Presidium coordinator Corrado Poli, tel. +39 335 324563 studio@corradopoli.191.it
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Presidia in Italy
Carmignano Dried Fig Dottato figs are the preferred variety for making Carmignano dried figs. The figs are split open and set out on cane mats, called canniccioni, for four or five days. They are steamed with sulphur and then dried directly in the sun. After resting for a month in a cool, dry place (during which time a sugary patina or gruma forms on the skin), the figs are layered in picce, which are shaped like the number '8'. Anise seeds are placed between each pair of figs. The figs are eaten either as an accompaniment to Prato Mortadella or as a dessert with Vin Santo wine. Production area: Communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano (Province of Prato) Presidium supported by: Prato Provincial
Authority, Commune of Carmignano, Prato Chamber of Commerce Presidium coordinators: Alessandro Venturi, tel. +39 0574 443105 info@slowfood.prato.it Siro Petracchi, tel. + 39 339 2473653 siro.petracchi@virgilio.it
Casentino Prosciutto The Presidium has revived the old Casentino tradition of making ham from the meat of pigs raised in semi-wild conditions. Aged at least 12 months, Casentino Prosciutto is round, flat, long and bright red in color, with a fair percentage of white fat. Its scent is heady and pungent, while the flavor is delicate with a slightly smoky finish. Production Area: Communes of the Casentino (Province of Arezzo) Presidium Supported by: Arezzo Provincial Authority, Arezzo Chamber of Commerce, Mountain Community of Casentino Presidium Coordinators: Marco Nardi, tel. +39 329 451025 slowfoodcasentino@libero.it Simone Fracassi, tel. +39 0575 591480 +39 335 343186
Casola Marocca The name Marocca appears to come from the dialect word marocat, which means 'unpliable’. In the past, in fact, this bread used to have a very hard texture. It is made by mixing chestnut and wheat flour with mashed potatoes. In Lunigiana this bread was traditionally produced all year round with the year's unperishable stock of chestnut flour. This flour was always available in the mountains, unlike
wheat, which grew best on the valley floor. Production area: Commune of Casola in Lunigiana (Province of Massa-Carrara) Presidium supported by: Massa-Carrara Provincial Authority, Mountain Community of Lunigiana, Massa-Carrara Chamber of Commerce, Apuan Alps Regional Park, Commune of Casola in Lunigiana Presidium coordinators: Corrado Poli, tel. +39 335 324563 studio@corradopoli.191.it Fabio Bertolucci, tel +39 0585 983017 +39 340 6899209 fabiobertolucci@virgilio.it
Certaldo Onion Cited in Boccaccio’s Decameron, the Certaldo Onion is a symbol of its town of origin. Two varieties exist. The Statina is round in shape and purplish in color with sweet, succulent flesh; it is best eaten fresh in the summer months. The bright red and pungent Vernina is harvested from the end of August through the winter months. Both varieties are excellent for soups and for francesina, a dish of boiled beef and puréed onion. Production area: Commune of Certaldo (Province of Florence) Presidium supported by: Commune of Certaldo Presidium coordinators: Elisa Buti, tel. +39 340 3788239 elbuti@libero.it Eugenio Piazza, tel. +39 328 7419500 info@certaldo2000.com
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Colonnata Lard What distinguishes real Colonnata Lard from the rest? The answers lie in the seasonal processing (from September to May), the area’s microclimate, the marble of the aging tanks, and the extensive variety of local aromatic herbs and spices. Colonnata Lard is ready after at least six months but can age for a year or more. Slices of the lard are very white, soft and subtly scented. It is rich in aromas and tastes delicate and sweet despite the large quantity of salt used. Production area: Colonnata, in the Commune of Carrara (Province of Massa-Carrara) Presidium supported by: Massa Carrara Provincial Authority, Commune of Carrara, Massa Carrara Chamber of Commerce, Colonnata Lard Protection Association Presidium coordinators: Corrado Poli, tel. +39 335 324563 studio@corradopoli.191.it Renata Ricci, tel. +39 0585 758029 larderia.renataricci@tin.it
Garfagnana Biroldo Garfagnana Biroldo is an old-fashioned blood sausage made with boiled and deboned pig’s head, blood and spices and is seasoned with wild fennel seeds, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, star anise and sometimes garlic, as well as salt and pepper. The mixture is cured and boiled for three hours. Garfagnana Biroldo is soft and balanced on the palate. The lean head meat, blood and spices offer delicate, lingering aromas. Production area: Communes of Garfagnana and Media Valle del Serchio (Province of Lucca) Presidium supported by: Gal Garfagnana, Mountain Community of Garfagnana, Mountain Community of Media Valle del Serchio 38
Presidia in Italy
Presidium coordinators: Andrea Bertucci, tel. +39 0583 62192 +39 347 3664566 andreabertucci1@virgilio.it Luigi Angelini, tel. +39 0583 666101
Garfagnana Potato Bread In Garfagnana and part of the Serchio Valley, the tradition of making this potato bread, also called garfagnino, lives on. The bread is a combination of wheat flour and 15% mashed potatoes, which make it softer and give it a fuller flavor. The huge 1-2 kilogram loaves are sliced and served with the salty cured meats of the Garfagnana, a traditional Tuscan pairing. Production area: Garfagnana (Province of Lucca) Presidium coordinators: Giordano Andreucci, tel. +39 335 8258803 slowfoodgarfagnana@libero.it Paolo Magazzini, tel. +39 0583 696143 magazzini.paolo@libero.it
Goym Sfratto Sfratto is a cigar-shaped biscuit consisting of wafer-thin casing filled with chopped walnuts, honey, orange peel, aniseed and nutmeg. This pastry is arguably the most important specialty of the Jewish tradition in the communes of Pitigliano and Sorano, or, rather, of the fusion between the Jewish tradition and the cuisine of the Maremma. Production area: Communes of Pitigliano and Sorano (Province of Grosseto) Presidium supported by: Grosseto Provincial Authority, Commune of Pitigliano
Presidium coordinators: Giovanna Pizzinelli, tel. +39 329 4284180 gio.pizzinelli@libero.it Giovanni Bianchini, tel. +39 0564 614182 info@panificiodelghetto.it
Mallegato The tradition of sanguinaccio, or blood sausage, made without pork (save for a little lard) still survives in San Miniato. In the classic version, the fresh blood is encased and enriched with lardons, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, pine nuts and raisins. In the Volterra variant, the mixture is enriched with pappa, or stale bread crushed by hand and soaked in water. Mallegato is dark - almost black - in color and is an acquired taste. The flavors of this cured meat meld the aromas of the herbs with the sweetness of Mallegato's blood base. Production area: Province of Pisa, in particular, Commune of San Miniato Presidium supported by: Pisa Provincial Authority, Commune of San Miniato Presidium coordinators: Ivana Strozzalupi, tel. +39 0571 409286 ivana.strozzalupi@virgilio.it Sergio Falaschi, tel. +39 0571 43190 info@sergiofalaschi.it
Origin s deter mine the chara cteris tics of a produ ct (a specie s, breed , or varie ty) throu gh select ion and adapt ation over centu ries. If we move a breed or varie ty to anoth er conte xt, somet hing chang es. It is essen tial to defen d plant varie ties and nativ e breed s.
Maremmana Ox This native breed has large lyre-shaped horns and a pale coat with hints of grey. Hardy and outstandingly robust, it is not suited to life in the stable. The maremmana Ox roams free on the range and is herded by buttero, or cowboys. Being raised in this natural state is beneficial to the well being of the animals and the flavor and wholesomeness of the meat. The classic local recipe is spezzatino, or stew, made with the most muscular cuts. Production area: Maremma (Province of Grossetto) Presidium supported by: Grosseto Provincial Authority Presidium coordinators: Roberto Tonini, tel. +39 0564 329036 roberto.tonini44@tiscali.it Marco Locatelli, tel. +39 329 8315187 direttore@alberese.com
Orbetello Bottarga In Orbetello, the art of preserving fish was probably introduced by the Spanish, who smoked eels and dressed fish with escabece, a vinegar sauce, as early as the 16th century. In Orbetello they still make anguilla scavecciata (eel in vinegar) and anguilla sfumata (smoked eel). Bottarga (from the Arabic botarikh, meaning salted fish roe) has alwas been produced from the roe of the grey mullet. Tender and amber in color, it is excellent sliced thinly with a splash of extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Production area: Orbetello Lagoon (Province of Grosseto) Presidium supported by: Grosseto Provincial Authority
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Presidium coordinators: Massimo Bernacchini, tel. +39 0564 860288 +39 348 7304261 info@orbetellopesca.it Pierluigi Piro, tel. +39 0564 850015 + 39 348 7304272 piroluigi@virgilio.it
Pistoian Mountain Pecorino In the mountains around Pistoia, there are still families of shepherds and dairymen who make Pecorino as was done a century ago: the sheep are taken to high altitude pastures and only natural rennet and raw milk are used. The milk comes from the Massese breed, which has black glossy wool, a ram’s profile and dark spiralled horns. The cheesemakers produce three types of Pistoian Mountain Pecorino: fresco (aged 7-20 days), abbucciato (aged at least 35 days) and da asserbo (aged from 2-3 months to a year). Production area: Communes of Pistoia mountains (Province of Pistoia) Presidium supported by: Pistoia Provincial Authority, Pistoia Provincial Breeders Association, Mountain Community of the Pistoian Appennines, Pistoia Mountains and Valleys Consortium Presidium coordinators: Marco Mucci, tel. +39 348 7955346 info@gabrielesichi.it Renzo Malvezzi, tel. +39 0571 584115 +39 335 331718 rmalvezzi@interfree.it
Prato Mortadella In Tuscany, Mortadella was historically simply a means of using up leftover cured meats and poorer cuts of pork. Flavored with spices and liqueur and boiled in water, hunks of Mortadella were cured in Prato and parts of the province of Pistoia at the start 40
Presidia in Italy
of the 20th century. Prato Mortadella has a distinctive dull pinkish color, the result of the addition of a few drops of alkermes liqueur to the mixture, which exudes exotic spicy aromas. Production area: Communes of Prato and Agliana (Province of Pistoia) Presidium supported by: Prato Provincial Authority, Prato Chamber of Commerce Presidium coordinators: Alessandro Venturi, tel. +39 0574 443105 info@slowfood.prato.it Carlo Conti, tel. +39 0574 630192 info@salumificio-conti.com
Sorana Bean This unusual variety of Cannellini bean is small and very thin-skinned with a squashed, almost flat shape. Flavorful and easy to digest, the bean is grown in a small valley in the Province of Pistoia, on the shores of the Pescia River. It is cultivated on very little land and is still picked by hand and left out in the sun for 3-4 days to dry. The beans are conserved in a special container with whole peppercorns, valerian root
or bay leaves until the winter months. Production area: Pescia Valley streams in the Commune of Pescia (Province of Pistoia) Presidium supported by: Commune of Pescia and Mountain Community of Appennino Pistoiese, Pistoia Mountains and Valleys Consortium Presidium coordinators: Renzo Malvezzi, tel. +39 0571 584115 +39 335 331718 rmalvezzi@interfree.it Enrico Gaggini, tel. +39 0572 407000
Tuscan Sea Palamita Wrongly believed to be of lesser quality than tuna, the Tuscan Sea Palamita is a delicacy best enjoyed conserved in oil with bay leaves, pepper and chili. Fished throughout the Tuscan Islands, it is a member of the tuna and mackerel family. It is a long fish (sometimes up to 80 centimeters), with a wide mouth and sharp teeth and is electric blue in color with black stripes. Production area: marine area of Tuscan Archipelago (Provinces of Grosseto and Livorno) Presidium supported by: Grosseto Provincial Authority, Livorno Provincial Authority, Commune of San Vincenzo, Commune of Piombino Presidium coordinators: Stefano Ferrari, tel. +39 0586 630822 stefano.ferrari34@tiscali.it Massimo Bernacchini, tel. +39 0564 860288 info@orbetellopesca.it
Valdarno Chicken The Valdarno Chicken is tall and loose-limbed with sturdy thighs and a small breast. It has white feathers with a plumed, sickle-shaped tail, an erect blood-red crest, well-developed wattles, large cream-colored ears with red veins
and yellow beak, feet and skin. The bird grows slowly and reaches optimal weight after 4-6 months. Both meat and eggs offer excellent flavor. The eggs have ivory shells and, though smaller than the battery variety, have much larger, yellower yolks. Production area: Communes of the upper Valdarno (Provinces of Arezzo and Florence) Presidium supported by: Arezzo Provincial Authority, Arezzo Chamber of Commerce, Florence Provincial Authority, Commune of Montevarchi, Mountain Community of Pratomagno Presidium coordinator: Ettore Salti, tel. +39 392 3251740 ettoresalti@yahoo.it
Valdarno Tarese The most salient feature of this pancetta - known locally as Tarese - is its enormous size. An entire Tarese measures 50 by 80 centimeters. It is made with both the back and stomach of the pig and is seasoned with red garlic and a mix of pepper, orange peel and spices. After about ten days packed in salt, it is cleaned and weighted down to dry for a day. The process of salting and spicing is repeated, and then it is covered in pepper and left to age for two or three months. Flavorful and aromatic, this pancetta is still produced by one producer from San Giovanni Valdarno. Production area: Communes of Montevarchi, San Giovanni Valdarno, Bucine and Terranuova Bracciolini in the region of Valdarno (Provinces of Arezzo) Presidium supported by: Arezzo Provincial Authority, Arezzo Chamber of Commerce, Commune of Montevarchi
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Presidium coordinators: Ettore Salti, tel. +39 392 3251740 ettoresalti@yahoo.it Andrea Fantechi, tel. +39 055 9102005 +39 333 2391066 techi@jumpy.it
Zeri Lamb This sturdy medium-large sized sheep has a wellproportioned head and white fleece. Zeri sheep are pastured all year round, save for winter. The milk has great nutritional value (especially protein) but is used only to feed lambs. As a result of this diet of mother’s milk and pasture grass, the lamb’s meat is exceptionally tender and wonderfully scented. The most traditional local preparation is agnello al testo (roast leg with potatoes). Production area: Communes of Zeri, Mulazzo, Pontremoli, Filattiera, Bagnone at altitudes above 800 meters (Province of Massa-Carrara) Presidium supported by: Massa-Carrara Provincial Authority, Mountain Community of Lunigiana, Commune of Zeri, Massa-Carrara Chamber of Commerce Presidium coordinators: Corrado Poli, tel. +39 335 324563 studio@corradopoli.191.it Cinzia Angiolini, tel. +39 0187 449178 +39 339 6397599 cinziangiolini@gmail.com
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Presidia in Italy
The hyper produ ctive syste m impos ed by indus trial agric ultur e has failed : it has not fed the plane t, but it has pollut ed it. It has destr oyed the cultu ral ident ities of whole people s and drast ically reduc ed divers ity
UMBRIA Lake Trasimeno Bean This tiny bean, about the size of a grain of rice, comes in colors ranging from salmon pink to black and brown, though the most common color is white. Soft, buttery and flavorful, the dried beans are eaten boiled and anointed with a little extra-virgin olive oil. When fresh, called cornetto, these beans are stewed with tomatoes and garlic. Cultivated on the terraces around Lake Trasimeno, they were popular until the 1950s, but have nearly disappeared since then. Production area: Communes around Lake Trasimeno (Province of Perugia) Presidium supported by: Mountain Community Communes Association “TrasimenoMedio Tevere”, Umbria Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Sonia Chellini, tel. +39 075 8296430 skelli@libero.it Flavio Orsini, tel. +39 339 8243379 flavio.orsini@alice.it
Civita di Cascia Roveja Roveja (Pisum arvense) is a small wild pea with a dark brown, reddish or dark green color, which has been grown for centuries - first records date back to 1545 - on the high slopes of Central Italy’s Sibillini mountains, where along with lentils it was one of the staple foods for the local population. Though it has almost disappeared from the table, it is rich in nutritional substances and an excellent ingredient in soups or on dry bread. When transformed into flour it can be used to make a type of polenta (farecchiata) served with anchovies.
Area of production: Val Nerina (Province of Perugia) Presidium supported by: Valle Umbra e Sibillini Local Action Group, Umbria Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Gianluca Polidori, tel. +39 0743 274134 gpolidori@castellodiporeta.it Silvana Crespi De Carolis, tel. and fax +39 0743 76430 +39 329 0909352
Trevi Black Celery The Trevi Black Celery takes its name from its stalks, which when not subjected to special processing such as whitening, become dark green in color. The veins are threadless and the heart of the plant is tender and pulpy. Techniques for gathering the Trevi Black Celery are strict and have remained the same for centuries: the seed is planted during a waning moon, possibly Good Friday before Easter because vegetables planted during this period appear to grow quicker and stay in bloom later. The seed is placed in a garden center and in the middle of October, the celery is ready to be harvested. Only cultivated in a small strip of land between Borgo and the Clitunno River, Black Celery is produced in very limited quantities. Production area: Commune of Trevi (Province of Perugia) Presidium supported by: Umbra Valley and Sibillini Gal, Umbria Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Sonia Chellini, tel. +39 075 8296430 skelli@libero.it Valentino Brizzi, tel. + 39 0742 332222 valebrizi@alice.it
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MARCHE Fabriano Salame Fabriano Salame is a highly regarded cured meat made by chopping the most prized part of the pig - the hams. Lightly covered with a dark brown mold, Fabriano Salame is hard and coarse. The meat is firm and flavorful, deep red in color and dotted with white lardons. When sliced, it exudes a beautiful scent, sometimes smoky, but without any hint of meat. Fabriano Salame has a lingering flavor, with nuanced vanilla notes. Production area: Communes of Fabriano, Cerreto d’Esi, Matelica, Esanatoglia, Sassoferrato, Genga (Province of Ancona) Presidium supported by: Marche Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Domenico Battistoni, tel. +39 0732 22016 - 21066 fabrianoslowfood@gmail.com Sandro Gioia, tel + 39 339 5443553 sandro.gioia@coldiretti.it
Fig Cake An old product of the Marche peasant tradition, Lonzino is made with figs dried in the sun and then mixed with almonds, pieces of walnuts and anise seed. It is sometimes mixed with a little sapa, slowly cooked grape must, or mistrà , a liquor made by macerating anise seed in alcohol, and wrapped in fig leaves. Fig Cake is excellent with a medium ripe cheese and a glass of passito wine. Production area: Castelli di Jesi district central Vallesina, Commune of Serra de’ Conti, Montecarotto, Maiolati Spontini, Cupramontana, Stafforo, Castelplanio, Rosora (Province of Ancona) 44
Presidia in Italy
Presidium supported by: Marche Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Antonella Di Leo, tel. +39 339 2983966 pesaroslow@virgilio.it Francesco Zanellato, tel. +39 335 6471335 francesco.zanellato@libero.it
Portonovo Wild Mussels The name mosciolo from local dialect refers to the wild mussel (Mytilus galloprovincialis), a naturally reproducing species that lives attached to the submerged rocks along the Conero coast. Consumption of these wild mussels dwindled due to the popularity of competing farmed mussels. Promoting the fishing and consumption of the wild shellfish helps protect their natural habitat and the strong historical ties between this shellfish and the region. Production area: coast from Pietralacroce to the border between Sirolo and Numana including the bay of Portonovo (Province of Ancona) Presidium supported by: Ancona Provincial Authority, Commune of Ancona
Presidium coordinators: Franco Frezzotti, tel. +39 071 2812404 +39 347 7561090 franco.frezzotti@alice.it Sandro Rocchetti, tel. +39 071 801166
Serra de' Conti Cicerchia A rustic, humble pulse, cicerchie were once common throughout the Marche. It is cultivated in spring, between the rows of corn with beans and chickpeas. The Serra de’Conti Cicerchia variety is tiny and irregular in shape. Its color ranges from grey to brown, and it has tender skin and a flavor that is far less bitter than that of other varieties. The pulse was once at risk of extinction, but some farmers in Serra de’ Conti have continued to cultivate them, thus saving them for posterity. Production area: Commune of Serra de’ Conti (Province of Ancona) Presidium supported by: Marche Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Antonella di Leo, tel. +39 339 2983966 pesaroslow@virgilio.it Gianfranco Mancini, tel. +39 338 8169718 mgianfranco@interfree.it
Sibillini Mountains Pecorino The inhabitants of Mount Sibilla have historic ties to the tradition of transhumance. Evidence of an important shepherd civilization can still be found within these mountains. The park and the pecorino cheese produced here both take their names from the mountain, which is 2,173 meters in altitude. The latter has remained unchanged for centuries. Rennet is still produced traditionally by drying the lamb or kid’s milk-filled stomach and the curd, according to an ancient and nearly lost technique,
is seasoned with wild thyme. Sibillini Mountains Pecorino is produced with raw milk and aged for at least two months. Production area: Sibillini Mountains (Province of Ascoli Piceno, Macerata and Perugia) Presidium supported by: Marche Regional Authority Presidium coordinator: Giocondo Anzidei, tel. +39 339 5739475 anzideigiocondo@libero.it
Sibillini Mountains Pink Apples The Sibillini Mountain Pink Apple is an heirloom variety cultivated in the Marche usually at altitudes of 450-900 meters above sea level, from the foothills of the Apennine valleys to the Sibillini Mountains. These apples are small, irregularly shaped and slightly compressed with a very short stem. Though not particularly striking in appearance, these apples are delicious nonetheless. The different types of this fruit share the same sweet, slightly acidic flesh and intense aromatic scent. Production area: Sibillini Mountains (Province of Ascoli Piceno) Presidium supported by: Marche Regional Authority, Sibillini Mountains Mountain Community Presidium coordinators: Nelson Gentili, tel. +39 0736 844379 +39 338 3913352 nelson.gentili@gmail.com Graziella Traini, tel. +39 0736 828276 il.fienile@tiscali.it
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LAZIO Caciofiore of the Roman Countryside In Roman times the use of wild cardoons in the cheesemaking process was quite common. Some cheesemakers are trying to revive the tradition in the Roman countryside, where artichokes and cardoons flourish. Eight shepherds, some of whom practicing the transhumance, have agreed to experiment using thistle flower, specially cultivated for use as rennet in the raw milk sheep cheese that recaptures the flavor of the ancient Caciofiore. Until a few years ago, Caciofiore was still produced in the Abruzzo and Marche regions, but it originated in Lazio. The Presidium intends to support this recovery project. Production area: rural areas around Rome Presidium supported by: Rome Chamber of Commerce, Azienda Romana per i Mercati Presidium coordinators: Stefano Asaro, tel. +39 06 7213195 +39 335 5270518 stefano.asaro@alice.it William Loria, tel. +39 06 69792437 w.loria@romamercati.com
Marzolina This diminutive cheese was once produced only in the month of March, when the goats had just started to give milk, hence the name, which comes from marzo, or 'March' in Italian. The production of Marzolina was once at risk of disappearance, but fortunately one of the last remaining cheesemakers passed her recipe on to other producers. Marzolina is shaped like a long cylinder. It can be eaten fresh, but tradition calls for a few days of aging, where the cheese rests on a wooden grate. The cheese can also be aged packed in oil in glass jars. 46
Presidia in Italy
Production area: Lazio section of the Abruzzo National Park, Communes of Appenine Campoli (Province of Frosinone) Presidium coordinators: Matteo Rugghia, tel. +39 0776 830181 +39 339 5724767 ruma48@libero.it Loris Benacquista, tel. +39 0776 884085 +39 335 1209233 b.loris77@libero.it
Onano Lentil The lentils of Onano, in the province of Viterbo, have been cultivated in a very limited area for centuries. These legumes are mentioned in documents dating back to 1561. The variety is large, round and flavorful, and is light brown in color with shades ranging from lead gray, ashen-red to greenish and marbled. This lentil “of the popes� grows well in the ideal, sandy, light volcanic soils of Onano. The skin is almost inexistent and the inside is velvety, fine and creamy with aromas of hay and chamomile. Production area: Commune of Onano (Province of Viterbo) Presidium supported by: Apabiol (Lazio Organic Producers’Association), Arsial Lazio Presidium coordinators: Stefano Asaro, tel. +39 06 7213195 +39 335 5270518 stefano.asaro@alice.it Marco Camilli, tel. +39 0763 78018 +39 328 4187301 marcocamilli@hotmail.com
ABRUZZO Campotosto Mortadellas Egg-shaped and joined on string in pairs, Campotosto Mortadellas are related only by name to the commercial product hung on strings in tourist shops throughout central Italy. Two producers still make the delicacy according to tradition, using finely minced prime lean pork, salt, pepper and a secret mixture of herbs and spices. Slices are bright red in color with a central white cube of lard. The meat is firm and compact, while the lard is sweet and crunchy. Production area: Commune of Campotosto (Province of L’Aquila) Presidium supported by: Gran Sasso and Laga Mountains National Park
GMOs repres ent the tip of the iceberg of an agricul tural model based on very few produc ts, which are all equal and only produc tive in the Global North. They require signific ant expend iture on fertiliz ers and pestici des. This model tends to destro y local agricul tures in the Global South and elimina tes the genetic variab ility of seeds kept in those countr ies, togeth er with the cultura l diversi ty of local commun ities.
and spicy, and the cheese is good sliced and excellent grated. Production area: Gran Sasso pastures (Commune of L’Aquila) Presidium supported by: Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park
Presidium coordinators: Silvia De Paulis, tel. +39 0862 60521 silviadepaulis@gransassolagapark.it Ernesto Berardi, +39 0746 825086 - 0862 909260 ernesto.berardi@tiscali.it
Presidium coordinators: Silvia De Paulis, tel. +39 0862 60521 silviadepaulis@gransassolagapark.it Giulio Petronio, tel. +39 333 5814030 bioformaggigransasso@gmail.com
Castel del Monte Canestrato
Farindola Pecorino
The pastures of the Gran Sasso Park were historically a region of migration: in past centuries shepherds walked to the high pasture of Campo Imperatore with thousands and thousands of sheep, mostly of the Sopravvissane or Gentili di Puglia breed. Every year the number of people making the trip up to high pasture with their sheep is smaller, as the difficult circumstances in which the cheese is made in these pastures discourages shepherds. With the high-pasture milk, the shepherds make a rough pecorino that is formed in wicker molds and can age up to a year. The flavor is strong
This sheep milk cheese is perhaps the only cheese in the world made with pig rennet. Use of this unusual rennet dates back to Roman times, and the preparation of the rennet today is the job of local women. The sheep, which are hand-milked, descend from the Pagliarola Appenninica breed and are raised in semi-wild conditions. Because of the rennet and the production technique, Farindola Pecorino has a granular, straw yellow, slightly moist interior, even when aged. The moistness creates a mossy perfume and wonderful mellowness.
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Production area: Commune of Farindola and neighboring communes (Provinces of Pescara and Teramo) Presidium supported by: Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park Presidium coordinators: Silvia De Paulis, tel. +39 0862 60521 silviadepaulis@gransassolagapark.it Ugo Ciavattella, tel. +39 085 823133 +39 337 912386 u.ciavattella@pecorinodifarindola.it
Santo Stefano di Sessanio Lentil Just a few millimeters in diameter with a spherical, wrinkled shape and thin skin, the dark brown Santo Stefano di Sessanio Lentil is grown 1000 meters above sea level and only on Gran Sasso slopes, in a pristine National Park. The cultivation of lentils in this area was already cited in monastic documents dating from 998. Here, the small legume has found an ideal habitat in the long, severe winters, and short, cool springs of this impoverished, stony terrain. Production area: Commune of Santo Stefano di Sessanio and neighboring communes (Province of L’Aquila) Presidium supported by: Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, L’Aquila Provincial Authority, Mountain Community of Campo Imperatore-Piano di Navelli, Communes of Barisciano, Calascio, Castel del Monte, Castelvecchio Calvisio and Santo Stefano di Sessanio Presidium coordinators: Silvia De Paulis, tel. +39 0862 60521 silviadepaulis@gransassolagapark.it Alessio Di Battista, tel +39 347 6995264
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Presidia in Italy
MOLISE Conca Casale Signora Signora is a traditional country sausage made in Conca Casale that is similar in appearance to cotechino or mariola. The flavor, however, is that of a coarse textured raw salami seasoned with wild fennel and citrus. The citrus flavor comes from the bladder casing, which is washed with water and lemon juice. The Signora meat is hand-chopped and then manually stuffed into casing, with special care taken to ensure that the folds of the intestine are well stuffed. Production area: Commune of Conca Casale (Province of Isernia) Presidium supported by: Commune of Conca Casale, Consorzio Tutela del Budello Naturale Presidium coordinators: Francesco Martino, tel. +39 0865 900377 +39 338 1048796 francesco.martino@tin.it Bruno Bucci, tel. +39 338 7263075 giorgia.bucci@alice.it
PUGLIA Acquaviva Red Onion The Acquavive cepodde (the onion’s name in dialect) is cultivated in the area surrounding the city of Acquaviva of Fonti. It is noted for its sweet flavor and is eaten raw. Recognizable by its platter-like shape, the onion is carmine-red with a stark white interior and boasts a sweet succulent flavor. The onion is featured in local festivals, where it can be sampled in rustici: focacce stuffed with the onions and strong ricotta. Production area: Commune of Acquaviva delle Fonti (Province of Bari) Presidium supported by: Puglia Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry, Union Camere Puglia, Puglia Regional Authority Department of food farming resources Presidium coordinators: Marcello Longo, tel. +39 347 4703926 +39 0831 985010 slowfood236@gmail.com Vito Abrusci, tel. +39 080 762469 +39 339 1936517 abrusciserv@libero.it
Presidium supported by: Gargano National Park Presidium coordinators: Patrizia Tabacco, tel. +39 347 2200047 tabaccopatrizia@libero.it Mario Felice Ortore, tel. + 39 0884 997107 info@ortore.com
Gargano Citrus Fruits
The citrus fruits of Gargano ripen all year round: Carpino Broad Beans the Durette at Christmas, the Bionde Oranges from April through May, the lemons in June The calcareous, clay-rich soil of Carpino is perfect and so on. The orchards, or giardini as they are for the cultivation of broad beans. After harvest, called here, are clustered around farmhouses the plants are well dried and crushed by horses. and protected from the wind by dry-stone walls Then the beans are removed from their pods or reed or holm-oak and laurel wood fences. with a wooden pitchfork and thrown into the air The Presidia producers use the oranges from wooden shovels using the afternoon breeze and lemons of Gargano to make excellent to eliminate tiny particles of dirt. Small, marmalades, candied peels and fruits with a dimple in the base, Carpino broad beans and limoncello liquor. are green when harvested but take Production area: Communes of Vico on a sandy white color with aging. del Gargano, Ischitella, Rodi Garganico Production area: Commune of Carpino (Province of Foggia) (Province of Foggia) Presidium supported by: Gargano National Park 49
Presidium coordinators: Paolo Francesco Lauriora, tel. +39 339 3754361 fplcom@libero.it Alfredo Ricucci, tel. +39 0884 966229 info@agrumariaricucci.it
Presidium coordinators: Salvatore Taronno, tel. + 39 335 6593583 salvelix@tiscalinet.it Giuseppe Bramante, tel. +39 0882 456288 giuseppebramante@tiscali.it
Gargano Goat
Gargano Podolico Caciocavallo
The Gargano goat is a particularly hardy breed that is well adapted to grazing in the most arid pastures and stubble. It has a long, raven-black coat and a large, pudgy head with a small tuft in front and a long beard under the chin. The horns are prominent and the ends face outward slightly, forming an ark. Its meat is excellent, as well as its milk used to make caprini, cacioricotta, canestrati cheeses and a very delicate fresh ricotta. Only 15 years ago, this breed was counted at more than 30 thousand heads. Today the numbers have been drastically reduced to 3,000. The presidium aims to recover this breed through the promotion of its dairy and meat products. Production area: Gargano (Province of Foggia) Presidium supported by: Gargano National Park
This cheese is made with the milk of the Podolica cow, a breed which yields very little milk and only in certain months. This breed used to be one of the most common in Italy but is now confined to parts of the south where pasture is sparse and water is rare. The production of Caciocavallo (with its typical large round base and small ball top) is an operation that requires great skill and ability, but the results are excellent. When it is well aged (a few months to three years, sometimes even up to 8-10 years) it is exceptional. Production area: Gargano (Province of Foggia) Presidium supported by: Gargano National Park Presidium coordinators: Giuseppe Placentino, tel. +39 0882 452109 +39 339 8839888 peppinoplacentino@alice.it Giuseppe Bramante, tel. +39 0882 456288 giuseppebramante@tiscali.it
Gargano Podolica Cow The Podolica is a breed raised on the open range that produces particularly aromatic milk and a robust and flavorful meat rich in mineral salts. It is a problematic meat, however, for the modern consumer, as its characteristics don’t appeal to today’s aesthetic standards: the fat is yellow (because the animals feed on grasses rich in carotene), the meat is fibrous and must be thoroughly tenderized, the taste is intense and particular. 50
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Franca, Consorzio Operatori Turistici ed Enogastronomici Terrae Maris Presidium coordinators: Francesco Biasi, tel. +39 335 6231826 slowfoodalberobello@virgilio.it Angelo Costantini, tel. +39 333 7403370 costantiniangelo@libero.it
Torre Guaceto Fiaschetto Tomato
Production area: Gargano (Province of Foggia) Presidium supported by: Gargano National Park Presidium coordinators: Giuseppe Placentino, tel. +39 0882 452109 +39 339 8839888 peppinoplacentino@alice.it Michele Sabatino, tel. +39 0882 643190 casasabatino@tiscali.it
Martina Franca Capocollo The best cured meats in Puglia have traditionally come from Martina Franca, and the most highly regarded is Capocollo, the name used in the south of Italy to refer to cured pig neck. To counter the climatic conditions of the area of origin - unsuitable for meat curing - a practice has developed where the meat is slightly smoked, marinated in brine and soaked in mulled wine. The procedure, which serves to preserve the meat, also gives it its extremely rich flavor. Production area: Communes of Martina Franca (Province of Taranto), Cisternino (Province of Brindisi), Locorotondo (Province of Bari) Presidium supported by: Commune of Martina
In March a hectare of land in the splendid Torre Guaceto natural reserve received its first 21,000 seedlings of rediscovered Fiaschetto tomatoes. People living near Brindisi remember this sweet and juicy variety of tomato well. After studying vegetable gardens located along the coast, one farmer started the first experimental cultivation at an altitude of only 15 meters and a few hundred meters from the sea. This project uses organic methods and will soon involve other local growers. Area of production: Torre Guaceto, in the commune of Carovigno (Province of Brindisi) Presidium supported by: Torre Guaceto Natural Reserve Presidium coordinators: Marcello Longo, tel. +39 347 4703926 +39 0831 985010 slowfood236@gmail.com Mario Di Latte, tel. +39 348 0391539 mariodilatte@alice.it
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Toritto Almond
Alta Murgia Traditional Bread
In the Province of Bari, the cultivation of almonds was once very common and has profoundly influenced both the shape of the countryside and its popular culture. Today, the only area in which almond production still plays an important role is Toritto, on the border between the Pre-Murgia and the High Murgia. In this area one can find various heirloom varieties of almonds that have survived the invasion of higher yielding Californian varieties. They are named for famous citizens of Toritto, such as Antonio De Vito and Filippo Cea. Young cultivators are aimed at relaunching these varieties. Production area: Commune of Toritto and surrounding area (Province of Bari) Presidium supported by: Puglia Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry, Union Camere Puglia, Puglia Regional Authority Department of food farming resources
Traditional stone ovens are still common in Altamura. Made in the 19th century with typically tall hoods, and requiring extremely long-handled peels, these ovens can hold 300 kilograms of bread or more. The superb bread of Altamura is baked in huge sombrero-shaped loaves, made from the ground durum wheat bran of the Alta Murgia district in the province of Bari, which is mixed with natural yeast, sourdough starter, warm water and sea salt. Production area: Commune of Altamura (Province of Bari) Presidium supported by: ‘Altus Murus’ Cultural Association
Presidium coordinators: Leonardo Manganelli +39 329 8075548 +39 080 4606213 manganelli@iamb.it Emilia D'Urso, tel. +39 080 56178 amygdalea@alice.it
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Presidium coordinators: Michele Polignieri, +39 337 356695 polivet@tele2.it Giuseppe Incampo, tel. +39 080 3142866 +39 339 5484295 incamposlow@libero.it
CAMPANIA Castellammare Violet Artichoke Also known as the Schito Artichoke, this blossom has green bracts with purple shading. Traditionally, the first cluster (the mamma or mammolella) is placed under a terracotta cover to protect the plant from the elements, allowing it to grow while remaining tender and delicate. Roasted over the grill and seasoned with salt, pepper, parsley, fresh wild garlic and olive oil, it is served as a symbolic Easter dish. This artichoke is also prepared as m’buttunata: stuffed with cheese, chopped salami, eggs, salt, pepper, parsley and stale bread. Production area: Communes of Castellammare di Stabia, Gragnano, Pompei, Sant’Antonio Abate, Santa Maria La Carità (Province of Naples)
Production area: Cilento (province of Salerno) Presidium supported by: Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park Presidium coordinators: Nerio Baratta, tel. +39 329 7507810 xnba@xnba.it Maria Carmela di Feo, tel. +39 0974 906116 +39 347 8670678 larenaro@libero.it
Ischia Cave Rabbit So called because it is raised in 3-4 meter deep caves from which the warrens, dug by the rabbit itself, extend. The Ischia Cave Rabbit boasts meat that is firmer and tastier than that of caged rabbits. On Ischia, rabbit is a popular holiday dish, a symbol of the inhabitants’ love of their island. In the past, the conigliata was a feast held to celebrate the completion of a casa a carusiello, or domed house. Production area: Island of Ischia (Naples)
Presidium coordinators: Rita Abagnale, tel. +39 081 8710157 +39 339 1298903 carmelarita.abagnale@email.it Presidium coordinators: Riccardo e Silvia D’Ambra, Sabato Abagnale, tel. +39 081 3903300 tel. +39 081 980604 - 994999 +39 347 1135440 info@terramorefantasia.it sf.dambra@libero.it
Cilento Cacioricotta
The Cilento goat is an indigenous breed from the province of Salerno and is especially populous in some areas of the Cilento National Park. Cilento goats are raised according to traditional practices and thrive on the poor pastures of non-coastal areas. The goat’s milk is used to produce Cacioricotta, a unique cheese made with a technique common in both Apulia and Basilicata. The name of this cheese reflects an unusual kind of coagulation of the milk, partly acidified and curdled with rennet (typical of cacio) and partly curdled through heat (typical of ricotta). 53
Gioi Soppressata First cited in an agronomic document in 1835, Gioi Soppressata is produced in Gioi Cilento. It is one of the oldest, most unusual Campanian cured meats and is made only from the finest cuts of pork, from which the cartilage and gristle are carefully removed. To produce this sausage, the meat is chopped with a knife, flavored with salt and pepper and encased in pig’s intestine. A piece of lard as long as the intestine itself is then fitted into the center, both to add a decorative touch and to keep the mixture moist after smoking. Production area: Communes of Gioi, Cardile, Salento, Stio, Gorga, Orria and Piano Vetrale (Province of Salerno) Presidium supported by: Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park Presidium coordinators: Nerio Baratta, tel. +39 329 7507810 xnba@xnba.it Raffaele Barbato, tel. +39 0974 991285 +39 338 6783741 raf.barbato@alice.it
Menaica Anchovies The Menaica Anchovy fishing technique dates back to ancient times. Once widespread throughout the Mediterranean, this fish survives only in the Cilento district because the fishermen still go out at night with their boats and nets (both called menaica or menaide). Once delivered to the harbor, the anchovies are immediately washed in brine and are salted and layered in terracotta jars. Then they are left to rest for at least three months. Menaica Anchovies are distinguished by their pale pink flesh and intense, delicate aroma. Production area: Communes of Pisciotta and Pollica (Province of Salerno) 54
Presidia in Italy
Presidium supported by: Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park Presidium coordinators: Giancarlo Capacchione, tel. +39 089 753535 +39 329 6330371 g.capacchione@libero.it Francesco Puglia, tel. +39 340 3380231 menaica@virgilio.it
Monaco Provolone from Agerolese Cow Monaco is a Caciocavallo-type cheese without the characteristic ball of curd decorating its top. Called Provolone, but in no way related to the Provolone produced industrially in the Po Valley, Monaco Provolone is made exclusively in the Lattari Mountains at the bottom of the Sorrentina peninsula. Smooth when fresh, it releases heady perfumes of green grass, hazelnut and cantina. Although used in Neapolitan cuisine as an ingredient for a number of dishes, this cheese deserves recognition as a great table cheese. Production area: Lattari Mountains in Sorrentina Peninsula (Province of Naples)
Presidium supported by: Mountain Community of Lattari Mountains
Authority, Agricultural and Productive Activities, Commune of Pomigliano D’Arco
Presidium coordinators: Rita Abagnale, tel. +39 081 8710157 +39 339 1298903 carmelarita.abagnale@email.it Gennaro Fusco,tel. +39 081 8791339 +39 338 3493584 fiordagerola@libero.it
Presidium coordinators: Vito Trotta, tel. +39 081 8044295 +39 340 6001837 workinprogress@alice.it Bruno Sodano, tel. +39 347 8070109 aziendaagricolabrunosodano@yahoo.it
Neapolitan Papaccella The papaccella is a small sweet pepper, round and ribbed with a very thick skin and is sharp yellow, red or green in color. Young consumers confuse them with regular peppers but old timers remember them well and at the market, when they manage to find them, they don’t let them get away. This pepper is excellent for conservation in vinegar or in a sweet and sour dish typical of Brusciano. The Campania region has recovered the germoplasm and is reproducing the original seeds in an experimental field, which will be cultivated by the producers of the presidium. Production area: Agro Acerrano-Nolano (Province of Naples) Presidium supported by: Campania Regional
In winte r lettu ce trave ls from Califo rnia to Londo n and carro ts come to Swed en from South Africa . The avera ge dista nce trave led by a produ ct to get to a super marke t in the USA is 1288 km
Pertosa White Artichoke During the 1920s this vegetable was a much sought item in all the markets in the area. Today it has almost disappeared: a mere thirty farmers cultivate it in small quantities amidst their olive trees. There are many traits that set this artichoke apart: its resistance to low temperatures, its light green - almost white - color, its sweet taste and the extraordinary tenderness of its inner leaves and choke. It is an excellent artichoke to eat raw, drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. Production area: Communes of Auletta, Caggiano, Pertosa and Salvitelle in the lower Tanagro Valley (Province of Salerno) Presidium supported by: Commune of Pertosa, Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park Presidium coordinators: Andrea La Porta, tel. +39 328 7123666 latendac@tiscali.it Giovanni Pucciarelli, tel. +39 0975 397184 +39 330 768273 giovanni.pu@libero.it
Vesuvio Piennolo Small Tomato Named for their tendency to grow hanging in bunches like grapes, these tiny tomatoes (around 20-25 grams each) can be distinguished from the famous Pachino tomatoes by the two grooves down their sides and the point at one end. The skin of this tomato is thick and the flesh firm, compact and parched 55
by the strong Vesuvius sun. Both its flavor and aroma become more intense with time. Production area: Communes of Vesuvio area (Province of Naples) Presidium supported by: Vesuvio National Park Presidium coordinators: Vito Trotta, tel. +39 081 8044295 +39 340 6001837 workinprogress@alice.it Giovanni Marino, tel. +39 081 7711559 +39 348 2539506 agricola@casabarone.it
Roman Conciato This cheese just might be the most ancient cheese in all of Italy; it appears to trace back to the Samnite civilization. It is made by curdling sheep, cow, or goat milk with goat rennet. After salting, drying and pressing the curds by hand, the forms are conciate or cured. One technique requires washing the resulting cheese in the cooking water of pettole, a type of homemade pasta, while another entails covering the cheese with a mixture of oil, vinegar, thyme and chopped spicy pepper. The Roman Conciato’s taste is similar to that of Fossa cheese but with a superior balance and fragrance. Production area: Commune of Castel di Sasso and nearby Communes (Province of Caserta) Presidium coordinators: Sabatino Santacroce, tel. +39 338 4698373 sabatsa@aliceposta.it Liliana Lombardi, tel. +39 0823 878277 info@lecampestre.it
San Marzano Tomato Even some of Italy's most famous vegetables are at risk of extinction: the San Marzano tomato is just one example. A very delicate variety that is 56
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difficult to grow and tend, this tomato develops an extraordinary fragrance when ripening, reminiscent of freshly cut grass and spices. The San Marzano Tomato is inextricably linked to pizza Napoletana, and is also an ingredient in traditional Neapolitan ragĂš, a meat sauce that cooks for at least 5 to 6 hours. Production area: Agro Sarnese-Nocerino (Province of Naples) Presidium coordinators: Vito Trotta, tel. +39 081 8044295 +39 340 6001837 workinprogress@aliceposta.it Patrizia Spigno, tel. +39 081 8446048 patspigno@hotmail.com
Traditional Cetara Anchovy Extract Anchovy Extract, a traditional Cetara product, is an amber-colored liquid produced by aging salted anchovies from the Gulf of Salerno, caught from March through the beginning of July. Immediately after they are caught, the anchovies are cleaned by hand and salted, then layered in oak containers. After four or five months, the liquid that drips out from a small hole in the base of the container is collected and used as a unique condiment, particularly well suited to spaghetti or linguine. Production area: Commune of Cetara (Province of Salerno) Presidium supported by: Amici delle Alici Association Presidium coordinators: Sergio Galzigna, tel. +39 335 228797 galzigna@ctn.it Secondo Squizzato, tel. +39 089 261466 +39 333 5609785 squizzgio@tiscali.it
BASILICATA Basilican Podolico Caciocavallo Podolico Caciocavallo is made using the pasta filata technique developed in the south of Italy over the centuries to ensure the preservability and wholesomeness of cow milk cheeses. This cheese is especially prized beacuse it is produced with the milk of a rare local breed, the Podolica. Suitable for aging up to 4-5 years, Basilican Podolico Caciocavallo is superbly complex when very mature. This cheese has a vast array of aromas because of the excellent milk of the Podolica cow. Production area: Commune of Abriola (Province of Potenza)
the flavor of the naturally delicious majatica olive and maintains its characteristic sweetness. Best eaten on its own or with Lucan cured meats or aged sheep’s milk cheese, Ferrandina Baked Olives are also added to orange salad, yellow squash soup and stewed salt cod. Production area: Communes of Accettura, Aliano, Cirigliano, Ferrandina, Gorgoglione, Salandra, San Mauro Forte, Stigliano (Province of Matera) Presidium supported by: Gal Le Macine Presidium coordinator: Angela Ciliberti, tel. +39 0835 675270 info@lemacine.com
Materana Mountain Pezzente
The name pezzente - or 'beggar' - likely documents the peasant origins of this sausage, which is made exclusively from less desirable cuts of meat and mixed with crushed sweet and spicy Senise peppers, wild fennel, fresh Ferrandina Baked Olives minced garlic and sea salt. The most convivial way to enjoy this salami is in slices accompanied The first documention of the Ferrandina Baked by good homebaked bread. It can also be used Olives produced in Ferrandina dates back as a base for tomato sauce for homemade pasta, to 1700. Production stipulates that these olives must first be toasted then dry-salted and finished or a savory second course with vegetables (chicory, Swiss chard, escarole) cooked in the oven at 50°C. This method accentuates in an earthenware crock. Production area: Communes of Accettura, Aliano, Calciano, Cirigliano, Garaguso, If you pay tax in Italy , remem ber Gorgoglione, Oliveto Lucano, Stigliano, Tricarico cers produ small (Province of Matera) ding defen our proje cts Presidium supported by: Gal Le Macine in devel oping count ries when Presidium Coordinator: Nicola Pessolani, tel. +39 0971 923021 pessolani@libero.it
you fill in your tax retur n. By quoti ng the codice fiscal e 94105 13048 1 you can donat e 0.5% of your tax to the Slow Food Found ation for Biodiv ersity .
Presidium coordinator: Angela Ciliberti, tel. +39 0835 675270 info@lemacine.com
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CALABRIA Grecanico Azze Anca Capicollo
Rotonda Red Eggplant Brought to Rotonda at the end of the 19th century, this eggplant variety is probably of African origin. These unusual Rotonda Red Eggplants are as small and round as apples. Bright orange in color with green and reddish streaks, they resemble tomatoes or persimmons. Their pulp is fleshy and retains its creamy color even hours after being cut. The aroma is intense and fruity (reminiscent of prickly pears), and the flavor is spicy with a pleasantly bitter finish. These eggplants are delicious eaten marinated in oil or vinegar, and even the leaves are good to eat. Production area: Mercure Valley (Province of Potenza) Presidium supported by: Alsia Presidium coordinator: Gilda de Tommaso, tel. +39 0973 665167 +39 347 1634768 gildas25@libero.it
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Capicollo is made from a pig’s upper loin. But in this area with deep-rooted GrecoCalabrian traditions, traditional capicollo azze anca uses a pig’s thigh, kneaded with a mixture of wild fennel seeds, dried chopped red pepper and black pepper. In some coastal municipalities near Reggio Calabria traditions dating back for thousands of years are still maintained and the local dialect contains many phonemes of Greek origin. The tradition of processing pork - mainly from crossbred if not totally black pigs, raised in a free-range or semi-wild state in traditional structures called zimbe, dates back to Homeric times. Wind from the Straits of Messina plays its part in aging the meat, which should be aged for at least six months to ensure high quality. Production area: Grecanic area communes (Province of Reggio Calabria) Presidium supported by: Aspromonte National Park Presidium coordinators: Raffaele Denami, tel. +39 0963 332116 + 39 339 7729666 r.denami@libero.it Francesco Riggio, tel. +39 0965 712304 +39 339 8117506 agririggio@libero.it
SICILY Alcamo Purceddu Melon The Purceddu of Alcamo is an oval melon with wrinkled, green skin and white, succulent flesh. It is a classic winter melon, one of the oldest and most important products of Trapani agriculture. They are first picked in June and stored suspended in a dry and ventilated environment, ripening and sweetening with time such that the last ones are traditionally eaten on Christmas. Ideal table fruit, it is also an ingredient in gelato and in traditional Sicilian granita. Production area: Communes of Alcamo, Castelammare del golfo and Calatafimi (Province of Trapani) and parts of Camporeale, Roccamena, San Giuseppe lato communes (Province of Palermo) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium Coordinators: Francesco Abate, tel. +39 0924 591284 francescoabate@hotmail.com Nunzio Bastone, tel. +39 320 0424930 Nunzio.Bastone@donrizzo.bcc.it
Production area: Belìce Valley (Provinces of Trapani, Agrigento and Palermo) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Giuseppe Parrino, tel. +39 0924 504776 zoopeppe@libero.it Massimo Todaro, tel. +39 339 3464087 zootmax@unipa.it
Black Sicilian Bee The Sicilian bee - with its very dark, almost black coloring - has inhabited the island of Sicily for thousands of years, but is currently at risk of extinction. It can be distinguished from the common Apis mellifica ligustica - also known as the Italian bee - as it is black and has smaller wings. It is so docile that beekeepers do not need to use masks when removing honey. Even at high temperatures - when other bees stop producing - they are still highly productive and can withstand sudden temperature changes. This species was abandoned between the 1970s and 1980s when Sicilian beekeepers replaced
Belìce Vastedda Vastedda is the only pasta filata, or kneaded curd, sheep milk cheese in Italy. In the past, dairymen produced it in the Belìce valley during the summer as a way of recycling damaged sheep cheeses by recooking and reworking the curd—and the name Vastedda probably comes from the dialect word vasta, meaning damaged or gone off. Today, it is made from the fresh milk of Belìce sheep. Wonderfully fragrant and intense on the palate, the cheese should be eaten very fresh. 59
traditional hives (the wooden bugni made of cane or hollow trunks used as hives) and began to import bees from the north of Italy. The Presidium aims to reintroduce these bees to the island. Production area: Sicily Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry
Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry
Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Carlo Amodeo, tel. +39 091 8114615 +39 337967373 apicolturaamodeo@libero.it
Castelvetrano Black Bread
Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Nunzio Caudullo, tel. +39 095 7722372 +39 328 8283043 ncaudullo@tiscali.it
The round loaves of Castelvetrano Black Bread have hard, coffee-colored crusts sprinkled with sesame seeds and a soft, wheat-yellow interior. The dough is kneaded with two flours: Bronte Pistachio Sicilian white flour and tumminia flour, made from an ancient corn variety. It is the tumminia This variety grows only in the hilly, volcanic soil that gives Castelvetrano bread its dark color, of Bronte. Emerald green in color with an intense, softness and distinctive ‘toasted’ flavor. unctuous and resiny aroma, Bronte Pistachios are The other ingredients are water, salt and natural harvested by hand in small quantities. Though yeast. This bread is baked only in woodburning superior in quality, this pistachio is struggling to ovens. withstand competition from less flavorful and Production area: Commune of Castelvetrano less expensive nuts from Iran, Turkey (Province of Trapani) and America and that’s why a Presidium Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional was started. Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry, Production area: Commune of Bronte (Province Gian Pietro Ballatore Consortium of Catania) for the Research on Specific Cereal Sectors Presidium coordinator: Giuseppe Salluzzo, tel. +39 328 6528563 arch.salluzzo@tiscali.it
Ciaculli Late-Winter Mandarin Long ago, the Conca d’Oro plain that surrounds Palermo welcomed weary travellers to rest in its verdant orchards. Today, the Conca d’Oro remains small: in the last 50 years, the area has lost 80% of its growing area due to flooding of the city and is still undergoing reconstruction. In the villages of Ciaculli 60
Presidia in Italy
and Croceverde Giardina - the areas that have remained intact - a natural variation of the Avana mandarin orange that arose in 1940 produced a new variety that matures from January through March (much later than usual). This remarkably sweet and juicy mandarin has few seeds and a thin skin. Production area: Rural areas around city of Palermo Presidium supported by: Palermo Regional Province, Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Nino Aiello, tel. +39 091 6628450 ninoaiello@tin.it Giovanni D’Agati, tel. +39 091 6301769 +39 339 2614123 dagati@tardivodiciaculli.it
Delia Cuddrireddra Taking its name from the Greek kollura (usually ring-shaped, toasted bread), this bread is coiled into an intricate crown shape and is said to have been created in homage to the ruling gentry that lived in Delia during the Sicilian Vespers war. Made with hard wheat flour, eggs, sugar, a little lard, red wine, cinnamon and orange zest, Delia Cuddrireddra was originally baked at home during Carnevale, where it obtained the characteristic ridges made by a special comb, a tool borrowed from weavers that can no longer be found. Production area: Commune of Delia (Province of Caltanisetta) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinator: Pasquale Tornatore, tel. +39 0934 553777 pasquale.tornatore@thaos.it
Giarratana Onion The Ibleo plateau is scored by narrow valleys running through the limestone landscape. This produces the brown soils which, together with the upland climate, provide the ideal environmental conditions for cultivating this onion cultivar. Of a size varying between 200 grams and 2 kilograms, the Giarratana onion is an essential ingredient in enhancing the flavor of many local dishes. Its sweet flavor without any trace of sharpness means it can also be used raw, in salad, or dressed just using olive oil and salt. Area of production: Commune of Giarratana (province of Ragusa) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Salvatore Noto, tel. +39 0923 976992 +39 333 2694009 salvonoto@cipolladigiarratana.com
Girgentana Goat This goat, whose name comes from Girgenti (modern-day Agrigento) has distinctive long, spiralled horns and resembles Asian breeds. Some experts trace its origins to Tibetan goats. Medium-sized with long, thick, white and occasionally dappled fleece, this goat has a short beard and a thick shock of hair hanging over its eyes. The Presidium endeavors to establish a high quality Girgentana cheese. The aim is to raise the profile of these breeders and make their livelihoods more viable by increasing the numbers of their herds. Production area: Province of Agrigento Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry 61
Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Giacomo Gatì, tel. +39 0922 877604 +39 339 3185640 giagati@libero.it
Interdonato Lemon The Interdonato Lemon is an old cultivar obtained at the end of the 19th century, when Giovanni Interdonato crossed a citron with the ariddaru, a local lemon variety. Mediumlarge in size, with a delicate, slightly acidulated flavor, the lemon has a finely textured skin, for which it is also called frutto fino. At the end of World War Two, these lemons were primarily sold in England, where they were a favored accompaniment for tea. After the citrus crisis of 1980, cultivation of this variety was reduced by half and today, the many orchards have since been abandoned. Production area: Ionic coast from Messina to Letojanni (Province of Messina) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Rosario Gugliotta, tel. +39 090 391278 +39 335 8391030 rguglio@tin.it Attilio Interdonato, tel. +39 380 7337406 attilio.interdonato@virgilio.it
Late-Harvest Leonforte Peaches Leonforte Peaches ripen in September and October and even as late as November. They are wrapped in paper bags to protect them from the wind and parasites and are harvested only when perfectly ripe. Since they are protected inside the bags, they ripen late and take on a bright yellow color with red streaks. Wonderfully scented, the peach boasts firm 62
Presidia in Italy
yellow flesh that is sweet with a distinctive, slightly caramelized flavor. Production area: Communes of Leonforte, Assoro, Nissoria, Enna, Calascibetta (Province of Enna) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Fabio Billotta, tel. +39 331 4249350 fabiobillotta@hotmail.it
Leonforte Broad Bean Delicious Leonforte Broad Beans are described as cucivole, a word that describes how these beans cook easily and do not require much soaking. This fava variety was once very common and was cultivated in rotation with grain to enrich the soil. Once picked, the beans are seasoned with salt and eaten with Pecorino cheese. When dry, they are used in the traditional Sicilian pasta dish, pasta ccu’ i favi a du’ munni’, frascatula (polenta of toasted broad beans and chickpeas with baby wild fennel bulbs), as well as many other dishes. Production area: Communes of Leonforte, Assoro, Nissoria, Enna, Calascibetta (Province of Enna) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Angelo Calì, tel. +39 339 2004123
Madonie Manna Manna, a natural sweetener with a very low glucose and fructose content, is produced from the bluish, resinous substance extracted from the bark of the ash trees of Castelbuono and Pollina in the Madonie mountains. When exposed to the sun, this substance solidifies into Manna. The extraction technique for collection is very ancient indeed, and has survived only in this small corner of the Mediterranean. The high quality Presidium product is made only from the purest Manna eletta, which forms ‘stalactites’ down the sides of the tree without touching the bark. Production area: Communes of Castelbuono and Pollina (Province of Palermo) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Giulio Gelardi, tel. +39 0921 425206 - 425009 mannagelardi@libero.it
Madonie Provola This exceptional cheese is produced in one of Italy’s most biologically diverse areas: the Madonie Mountains in the Madonie Regional Park. A typical kneaded-curd cow milk cheese similar to its cousin from the Nebrodi, this Provola is shaped like a wine flask and has a fine straw-yellow rind. The artisan dairymen of the presidium still make this cheese with raw cow and sheep milk. Madonie Provola is also available lightly smoked. Production area: Madonie Mountains (Province of Palermo) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry
Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Sandra Invidiata, tel. +39 0921 661536 +39 328 4723440 inv.sandra@inwind.it
Magghia Masculina The Gulf of Catania is dotted with small fishing boats along the horizon: from Capo Mulini in the north, with its string of the Cyclops Islands, to Capo Santa Croce in the south, the fishermen set out their drift nets at night and catch the masculini fish just as fishermen did in the times of Homer. Also called anciuvazzu and anciuvurineddu, there are many names for these small, wriggling anchovies. The small heads of the fish get caught in the net, creating a natural bleeding, which produces a tastier and more highly valued fish. Production area: Gulf of Catania Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Gaetano Urzì, tel. +39 333 9713831 cooperativadelgolfo@tin.it
Maiorchino Maiorchino is one of the greatest Pecorino cheeses in Italy in terms of both size and quality. Suitable for long aging, Maiorchino is produced (in good years) from February until mid - to late June. The cheese is made in small quantities from raw sheep, cow and goat milk, and the animals live in the wild pastures of the Peloritani Mountains. The production technique is highly complex and involves the long, patient job of bucatura - repeated 63
piercing with a long needle to extract the excess whey from the center of the cheese. Production area: Communes of Santa Lucia del Mela, Novara di Sicilia, Basicò, Tripi, Mazzarrà Sant’Andrea, Fondachelli Fantina, Montalbano Elicona (Province of Messina) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Mario Mirabile, tel. +39 090 935886
Minuta Olive This rare and ancient Sicilian olive cultivar is hardy and resistant to extreme climates. It grows on the highest hillsides of Nebrodi Mountains. The Minuta Olive, with its high concentrations of polyphenols and vitamin E, offers notable nutritional qualities. The mediumsmall fruit are hand-harvested from mid-October through mid-December. The oil from these olives is delicate in flavor, well-balanced between bitter and spicy, and rich in fruity aroma, with floral notes. This oil is unusual for Sicily as it has a very delicate flavor and therefore is suited to very refined dishes. Production area: Communes of Nebrodi area (Province of Messina) Presidium supported by: Commune of Sinagra, Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Francesco Cupane, tel. +39 0941 919124 +39 335 6289725 info@cupane.it
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Monreale White Plums Small with a light yellow skin and very sweet, these plums are sometimes called Aridd’a core because of their heart shape and their similar properties to another late blooming variety, Sanacore, which according to popular belief, possesses medicinal powers for illnesses of the heart. They are cultivated in the Monreale gardens and in particular in Conca d’Oro by those cultivators still practicing the ancient tradition of preservation. The latest blooming plums, those maturing at the end of August and in September, are placed in a delicate white paper like small carmels and packed away in a cool place where they are preserved until the end of November. Production area: Commune of Monreale (Province of Palermo) Presidium Supported by: Palermo Provincial Authority, Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinator: Marilù Monte, tel. +39 328 9714674 +39 091 6168151 monte@susinebianche.com
Nebrodi Black Pig Raised in the beech and oak forests of the Nebrodi Mountains, this pig breed is small and black. Though frugal and hardy, this breed has diminished considerably in number in recent years. To encourage the cultivation of Nebrodi Black Pigs, it is vital to promote its excellent meat. Products made from the meat of Nebrodi Black Pigs include Salame di Sant’Angelo in Brolo, cured hams, Nebrodi sausage, and cured meats such as capocollo and pancetta. Production area: Communes of Nebrodi area (Provinces of Messina, Enna and Catania) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry
Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Sebastiano Agostino Ninone, tel. e fax +39 0941 919403
Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Tindaro Agostino Ninone, tel +39 0941 919279 +39 335 6651139
Nebrodi Provola
Noto Almonds
This Provola is a traditional Caciocavallo cheese produced by the dairymen of the Nebrodi Mountains. Size varies according to area of production: from one kilogram in the northwestern Nebrodi mountains to one-and a-half kilograms or more in the central Nebrodi, to five kilograms in the eastern Nebrodi. The cheese has the typical oval Caciocavallo shape with a small head (from which it is hung) and is covered in a smooth, glossy, amber-yellow outer rind. With aging, the flavor varies from sweet to spicy. Production area: Nebrodi Mountains: from Basicò to Castel di Lucio (Province of Messina), Communes of Cerami and Troina (Province of Enna), Communes of Randazzo and Bonte (Province of Catania) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry, University of Catania
Three varieties of Noto almonds are cultivated here: Romana, Pizzuta d’Avola and Fascionello. The first has the best flavor, intense and aromatic, but is the least appreciated by the market on account of its chunky, irregular shape. The almond is the queen of Sicilian confectionery and is used to make pasta reale (marzipan), martorana (marzipan fruit and vegetables), almond milk, nougat, mustazzuoli biscuits, amaretti and cassata, the baroque pudding par excellence. Production area: Communes of Noto, Avola, Rosolini, Canicattini Bagni (Province of Siracusa) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Carmelo Maiorca, tel. +39 0931 494175 carmelomaiorca@libero.it Concetto Scardaci, tel. +39 320 6747170 scardaciconcetto@yahoo.it
NĂšbia Red Garlic The name given to this garlic variety derives both from a small hamlet near Paceco and from its deep red color. The bulb normally has around 12 cloves and is white outside and bright red and intensely flavored inside. Traditionally woven into large plaits of 100 bulbs and hung from balconies or stored in cellars and warehouses, this garlic is integral to the cuisine of Trapani, particularly in dishes such as pasta con il pesto alla trapanese and fish couscous. 65
Production area: Communes of Paceco, Trapani, Erice, Valderice, Busseto Palizzolo and Marsala (Province of Trapani) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium Coordinators: Franco Saccà, tel. +39 0923 559490 francosac@libero.it Giovanni Manuguerra, tel.+39 0923 867454 +39 349 8659474 vito.manuguerra@alice.it
Polizzi Badda Bean The bicolored Polizzi Badda Bean has been grown in the Polizzi Generosa gardens in Madonie Park for two centuries. Round and medium-small, the bean’s name, Badda, a term from the local dialect, refers to its balllike shape. The bean is ivory-colored with pink or orange markings on a violet background so dark it verges on black. The Badda Bean can be cooked fresh or dried in traditional Polizzana dishes. Production area: Commune of Polizzi Generosa (Province of Palermo)
Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry, Regional Province of Palermo Presidium coordinator: Nino Aiello, tel. +39 091 6628450 ninoaiello@tin.it
Ragusan Donkey Until 30-40 years ago, the donkey played an important role in the countryside of the south of Italy. Today Sicily’s native breeds, including the Ragusana, are in danger of extinction. The Ragusan Donkey has a dark bay coat, a grey muzzle, black mane and tail, large eyes circled with white, straight, medium-long ears, a broad girth and robust limbs. The properties of donkey’s milk are very similar to those of human milk and may be used to feed babies with digestion problems. Production area: Sicilian inlands Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 privitera.slowfood@alice.it Daniela Franchina, tel. +39 333 9290042 danielafranchina@yahoo.it
Ragusano from Modicana Cow This cheese, known as ‘the treasure of the Iblei mountains’, is shaped like a parallelepiped and has a rich, golden rind. To make this rare cheese, the cheesemaker must be strong while at the same time, possess the finesse of a fine craftsman. This cheese is produced from November through May when the local pastures offer over 100 different varieties of herbs. Made from curds, like caciocavallo, 66
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Inten sive farmin g metho ds are not concer ned about animal welfar e, the enviro nment , meat qualit y or the health of consum ers.
Production area: Island of Salina (Province of Messina) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Rosario Gugliotta, tel. +39 335 8391030 rguglio@tin.it Salvatore D'Amico, tel +39 335 7878795 +39 090 9809123 salvatore@eolie.net
Traditional bread from Lentini Lentini has always been famous in Sicily for its bread, which is directly baked in a wood-fired oven using olive branches. the best Ragusano is aged from eight months It is a flat, tapered bread which you could buy to two years hung from cantina ceilings. freshly baked wrapped in a piece of thin grey Production area: Communes of the Province paper. The bakeries were small, unfurnished of Ragusa and some communes of the Province rooms directly giving onto the street. of Siracusa The imposition of commercial licences forced Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry, many to close but some have managed to keep going. A Presidium now aims to defend the work Corfilac of the last bakeries still producing with criscenti (sourdough yeast), and native Sicilian cereals. Presidium coordinators: Production area: Communes of Lentini Pippo Privitera, tel. +39 335 8455507 and Carlentini (Province of Siracusa) privitera.slowfood@alice.it Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Rosario Floridia, tel. +39 0932 951151 Authority, Department of Agriculture and Salina Caper Forestry, Municipality of Lentini, G. Pietro Ballatore Consortium for Cereals Research On the island of Salina, the caper bush is part of the landscape. Until the advent of tourism, Presidium coordinators: the caper was the crux of the islands’ economy, Salvatore Giuffrida, +39 338 8135797 but is now in crisis due to competition slowlentini@tiscali.it from cheaper North African produce. The capers Alfio Bosco, tel. +39 347 7003 216 are picked one by one and stored in wooden barrels in layers alternated with rough marine Trapani Artisan Sea Salt salt and are ready to be eaten after a couple of months. Salina capers stand out for their This unrefined artisan sea salt is produced by firmness, perfume and uniformity. They can be evaporating sea water in huge shallow pools stored for up to three years. near the seashore. On the coast near Trapani, 67
against a scenic backdrop of water, windmills and white pyramids that turn pink with the sunset, craftsmen work the piles of salt using traditional methods. Trapani Artisan Sea Salt is actually more salty than table salt, as it contains more potassium and magnesium and less sodium chloride. Production area: Communes of Trapani, Paceco, Marsala (Province of Trapani) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Franco Saccà, tel. +39 0923 559 490 francosac@libero.it Carmelo Culcasi, tel. 0923 867374 salineculcasi@alice.it
Ustica Lentil Italy’s smallest lentils grow on the southern island of Ustica. Sown in volcanic, fertile soil, the lentils are cultivated almost entirely by hand. Brown in color, tender, and flavorful, they do not need to be soaked and cook in three quarters of an hour. The two classic uses for these lentils are in traditional basil- or wild fennel-scented vegetable soup or in pasta e lenticchie, which is made with broken spaghetti. Production area: Ustica Island (Province of Palermo) Presidium supported by: Sicilian Regional Authority Department of Agriculture and Forestry Presidium coordinators: Giancarlo Lo Sicco, tel. +39 091 362986 gilosicco@tin.it Margherita Longo, tel. +39 091 8449543 tramontana78@hotmail.com
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SARDINIA Casizolu Montiferru is home to a truly unusual cheese called Casizolu. The existence of this ancient, pear-shaped cow milk cheese is especially surprising given that Montiferru is right at the heart of an area known for goat and sheep cheeses. Most Casizolu cheesemakers are women who work the fresh milk and knead the fresh curd under hot water to give it its classic shape. Casizolu is produced from the milk of Sardinian Modican Cows, or with Brown Swiss-Sardinian crosses. These rustic animals are raised free in woodland pastures, hence their wonderful herbed, woody and leaf-scented milk. Production area: Montiferru (Province of Oristano) Presidium supported by: Gal Montiferru Barigadu Sinis Presidium coordinators: Franco Pinna, tel. +39 0783 569013 +39 347 9096637 trunfa@libero.it Gianpaolo Piu, tel. +39 0783 551115 +39 338 5697976 giampaolopiu@alice.it
Fiore Sardo Shepherds’ Cheese The Presidium was set up with the aim of safeguarding traditional Fiore Sardo production in its historic area of origin the small Sardinian towns in the Barbagia area. Here, artisan cheesemaking has been preserved largely due to the work of thirty farmers who rear Sardinian sheep, produce several tons of raw ewe’s milk and do not add dried starter culture to their milk - only rennet from the farm is used. In comparison to the tons of mold usually produced in industrial dairies, thse farmers make
their living off scarce quantities. If action is not taken to support sheep farming in Barbagia, high-quality Fiore Sardo will soon be at risk of disappearing. Production area: Communes in Barbagia (Province of Nuoro) Presidium supported by: Gal Barbagie and Mandrolisai, Sardinia Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Gianfranco Sotgiu, tel. +39 0784 36621 gfsotgiu@tiscali.it Simone Cualbu, tel. +39 329 8392074 simonecualbu@gmail.com
Osilo Pecorino One of the smallest of the classic Sardinian Pecorinos (narrower in diameter but taller than the classic Sardinian product), Osilo Pecorino has a fine, delicate consistency due to a heavy pressing during production. Its aromas are typical of rustic pecorino; but the flavor is unusually buttery, with notes of toasted hazelnuts. It is also critical to protect the production system for this unusual cheese, as hundreds of shepherds rely on the production of this cheese for their livelihoods. They also produce the unusual byproduct mustia, a ricotta extracted from the whey and then smoked. Production area: Communes of Osilo, Ploaghe, Codrongianos, Tergu, Nulvi (Province of Sassari) Presidium supported by: Sardinia Regional Authority
PompĂŹa This tree, originally from the Baronia coast, is similar to the orange but has thorny branches. Its bright yellow fruit is comparable in size to grapefruit, with thick, warty skin and very acidic juice. Only the skin of this citrus fruit is consumed. It is used to make liqueurs, and the pith is candied to make aranzata, a cake made of chopped pompĂŹa, almonds, wildflower honey, and candied nuts. Production area: Commune of Siniscola on the Baronia Coast (Province of Nuoro) Presidium supported by: Commune of Siniscola, Sardinia Regional Authority Presidium coordinators: Gianpiero Lapia, tel. +39 0784 810687 gplapia@tiscali.it Francesca Pau, tel. +39 0784 878762 +39 349 1243528 panecarasatupau@tiscali.it
San Gavino Monreale Saffron Crocus flowers are hand-picked at dawn when they are still closed or only slightly open. The petals are then opened by hand
Presidium coordinators: Nicola Migheli tel +39 338 3967169 nmigheli@yahoo.it Gavinuccio Turra, tel. +39 079 42695 +39 360 498282 gavinuccioturra@virgilio.it
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