EXPERIENCING BLACK LISBON

Naky Gaglo

Lisbon’s Afro-Portuguese Community

Delivers Experiences Wrapped in History, Culture and Food

Libson is home to a diverse community from around the world. There is also a large Afro-descendant community that often is referred to as PALOP, Portuguese-speaking African nations. The countries that make up this group are Angola, Cape Verde, São Tomé and Príncipe, GuineaBissau and Mozambique.

While the city may now be known as a hub for digital nomads, other citizens from the European Union flock there for the sunny weather, abundant seafood and well-balanced wine. Many from the PALOP community have been born and raised in Portugal and others have immigrated. Both groups have established businesses, foundations and cultural spaces that shape Portugal for what we know it to be.

Many creative entrepreneurs of African descent born and raised in Lisbon are candid about the sometimes uphill battle for more visibility and access to opportunities that are at times hard to come by. “Life as an Afro-European in Portugal, I think that it is challenging like being a Black or African woman everywhere in the world. I’m a whole African woman. And I am a whole Portuguese woman; both coexist as my reality, ” says Ana Sofia Lopes, Portugal native and owner of Sofia’s Place. “I’m my father’s daughter. He was one of the first Cape Verdean entrepreneurs in Lisbon. He owned a business on Rua de São Bento, which is where Sofia’s Place is located. I’m simply following in his footsteps,” shares Lopes.

José Lino Neves, vice president of Batoto Yetu (@batotoyetuportugal), regularly hosts walking tours bridging the gap between the past and present. Batoto Yetu often partners with other organizations to bring arts, theater and dance programming to the youth in

BY MARGO GABRIEL

Ana Sofia Lopes Lisbon and the neighboring city of Oeiras. “We bring awareness to the overall Portuguese society with the statues commemorating African presence in Lisbon and beyond. There are a lot of elements that are strongly linked to African knowledge and presence.”

Lisbon offers some of the most diverse lifestyle experiences in Europe. These Blackowned or Black-led businesses deliver experiences wrapped in culture, tradition and community building.

FOOD AND DRINK Craving Cape Verdean food? Head to Sofia’s Place (@sofia.s.place) in Libson’s São Bento neighborhood for pastel de atum, moamba de galinha and shrimp risotto and a personal favorite, West African lamb chops that pair well with their homemade BBQ sauce. Lopes’s grander mission is to bring the African diaspora together via her monthly Diaspora Fridays dinner series, where she invites a guest chef to curate and cook a multicourse meal that serves as a cultural exchange with diners.

Head to Tabernacúlo by Hernâni Miguel (@tabernaculo_by_hernani_miguel) for alfresco dining and try the savory moqueca de camarão, a Brazilian dish with shrimp in buttery coconut milk and palm oil broth. This Lisbon haunt offers the best of both worlds – live music and a fusion of African and Portuguese cuisines.

Mikas Morais, a native of Mozambique, is the owner of Social B (@socialb_lisboa), a cocktail and wine bar that features live music on Tuesday nights and a live DJ set hosted by Morais himself on Wednesday evenings. The menu is a mix of African and Portuguese cuisines created by Chef Zola. Be sure to try their matapa, a Mozambican classic made with cassava leaves and coconut milk.

Ricardo Maneira is a DJ by trade and now restaurateur at A Viagem das Horas (@aviagemdashoras) in Lisbon’s Arroios neighborhood. With an ambitious menu inspired by Maniera’s love of music, try Everybody Loves the Sunshine (goat cheese, Mainova olive oil and Salmarim salt flower) with a glass of natural or local Portuguese wine.

Head chef Mauro Álison swapped a corporate job for a career as a renowned chef in Setúbal at Hotel Casa Palmela (@ hotelcasapalmela). The 17th-century manor house is located near vineyards with an outdoor terrace and views overlooking verdant Setúbal. The fine-dining menu features local Portuguese produce and wine.

Café Noivo is another great place for Cape Verdean food located in Cova da Moura and serves fresh seafood and Portuguese wine. It feels more like a diner than fast casual dining.

Cantinho do Aziz (@cantinhodoaziz), located in the Mouraria neighborhood of Lisbon, has served up authentic Mozambican food for over 30 years. Chef Jeny Sulemange credits her mother for teaching her how to cook and now shares her Mozambican cuisine throughout Europe and New York in the states. Try her caril camarão, prawns in curry sauce served with coconut rice for a global dining experience.

Tambarina (@tambarinarestaurante) is a no-fuss Cape Verdean restaurant with a down-home feel. Try the stewed chicken with okra and white rice or the traditional dish of Cape Verde, cachupa, a slow-cooked stew with meat, potato, beans and cassava.

Owner Shay Ola is the mind behind Rove Lisboa (@rove.lisboa), a space that celebrates “urban surf culture, gastronomy and art.” Located in the Bairro Alto neighborhood, experience weekly live DJ sets, take in local art and dine at the bar. Be sure to try their custom Ola cocktail with the salt beef sando.

Shay Ola is also the owner of Queimado (@queimado_lisboa), where “great seasonal and local produce meets fire.” With an everchanging menu, Ola brings quality seafood and vegetables to every plate. He also crafts many cocktails and sodas in-house to round out his seasonal menu.

André Magalhães is the chef and owner of Taberna da Rua das Flores (@tabernadasflores), a traditional Portuguese taberna or tavern. Enjoy Portuguese classics with an Asian twist like his green onion and cabbage pancake or the savory grilled prawns.

At Mambo (@mambo.lx) located on Green Street in Lisbon, enjoy gastronomy from regions of Angola, Brazil, Cape Verde and Senegal.

ARTS AND CULTURE Vítor Sanches is the founder of the sustainable clothing brand and bookstore Bazofo Dentu & Zona (@bazofo_dentuzona), located in Cova da Moura. Cova da Moura is home to Lisbon’s largest Cape Verdean community.

Chef Jeny Sulemange

Naky Gaglo, a native of Togo, moved to Portugal over five years ago and noticed no tours available that dove deep into Portugal’s colonial past. He launched the African Lisbon Tour (@africanlisbontour), a 4-hour walking tour through Lisbon.

Afrolink (@afrolink.pt) is a collective of creatives and entrepreneurs that Paula Cardoso spearheads and hosts a market regularly. At the Afrolink market, you can shop for books, food, jewelry and more.

WHAT TO LOOK FORWARD TO NEXT YEAR African Diaspora Week is an inaugural initiative by Margo Gabriel and Hernâni Miguel to generate awareness and revenue for PALOP businesses. Meet local business owners, enjoy live music, shop local products by artisans and creative entrepreneurs and dine in cafes and restaurants representing Angola, Cape Verde, São Tomé and Príncipe and Mozambique. September 18 – 25, 2023.

Portugal’s premier culinary event, Congresso dos Cozinheiros (@congressodoscozinheiros) or Cooks Congress hosted by Edições do Gosto, brings chefs and industry professionals from Portugal and beyond together for the largest food, culture and wine conference. Although not Black-owned, Paulo Amado launched this culinary event 18 years ago, and in 2022 hosted the theme African Connections with live cooking demos, music, panel discussions and samples from top-rated chefs, culinarians and wine and spirit makers. September 24-25, 2023.

Wade Cellars

Expands Boundaries in the Wine Industry

BY ASHIA AUBOURG

Dwyane Wade is living proof that passion exploration is limitless. The NBA legend is diving into the wine industry and absorbing as much about the culture as possible. In 2014, Wade Cellars, a wine producer and brand, was founded. As the company continues to mature, the team aims not only to make wine accessible but also to build community.

Around his late 20s, which is typically when careers start for most people, Wade found himself growing increasingly appreciative of wine. So much so that he would travel to different regions known for their vineyards. “This world of wine wasn’t something that was presented to me growing up as a kid in the inner city,” shares Wade. Growing up in a neighborhood under-resourced in Chicago, he knew he wanted to eventually dedicate his time to the wine industry to make it accessible to more people. So after securing a partnership with a mentor, together they decided to establish Wade Cellars out of Napa Valley.

THE MAKING OF A BRAND Building Wade Cellars, of course, requires crafting a team of like-minded, passionate people. That is why George WC Walker, III became their Brand Ambassador after sending a cold email to the general info address at Wade Cellars. With aspirations of gaining an internship, Walker took a chance and made his case in a message about why he would be a good fit for Wade Cellars. After participating in a couple of interviews, he relocated to Napa Valley to pursue a full-time role. “I still pinch myself every time I tell the story because it feels so surreal and crazy how the opportunity happened,” shares Walker.

Despite this dream role, Walker knew he still had to put his all into the growth of Wade Cellars. “One of the biggest challenges we have experienced is getting cornered into a box of being another celebrity-owned wine brand,” says Walker. So, the team had to determine what would set them apart from other brands. What felt most natural was doing so by way of curated gatherings that engage Black community experts. “As a wine brand, we’ve been around for eight years, but we’re still so new and young. We’re continuing to evolve into who we’re going to be as a wine brand. We got into this space to make wine more accessible,” shares Wade.

In the fall of 2022, Wade Cellars launched When We Gather, a national series of wine and food experiences highlighting celebrated Black chefs and sommeliers paired with wines by Wade Cellars. They decided to host the events in six cities across the U.S. “We understand that we as Black people are not a monolith. So we wanted to amplify that philosophy. Curating the tour with the nuances of the Black experience through foods, wine and conversations is what the tour’s inspiration was all about,” says Walker.

The tour has included hosts such as Leslie and LeAnn Jones of 1010 Wine & Events (California), Tammie Scott of Nostalgia Wine & Jazz Lounge (Ohio) and chef Erick Williams of Virtue (Illinois). Walker adds, “We want these experiences to serve as an example that Black people belong in these spaces.” Those attending will enjoy selections from Wade Cellars’ current wine portfolio, which includes a cabernet sauvignon, chenin blanc and rosé. Wines are currently sold online as well as at select retailers

Additionally, to further push inclusion in the wine industry, Wade joined UC Davis’ Executive Leadership Board for the Department of Viticulture and Enology. The partnership represents Wade Cellars’ first step toward establishing institutional change in the wine industry. The board’s goals include increasing the percentage of underrepresented students pursuing careers in all parts of the grape and wine industry.

When We Gather will convene tastemakers on December 2 in Miami Beach, Florida. The tour is just getting started and will continue in 2023 in more cities to include New York City and chefs such as Serigne Mbaye of New Orleans’ Dakar.

Visit and shop Wade Cellars at dwadecellars.com. For future events as well as wine releases, follow along on Instagram (@dwadecellars).