Apple Squares - Szarlotka

Good Food Gone Dad

BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

athers are curious beings, often copping questionable fashion F choices, quipping some of the most groan-worthy dad jokes, and always ready with a screwdriver, a wood shim, or a spritz of WD-40. Some take over the TV for game day, some swear the lawn can only be mowed at a 45º angle, and some claim they are king of the grill.

This month four Alberta chefs share their relationships with their fathers and food, and the common threads between all of us: fathers are an endless source of experience and encouragement, who keep pushing us forward in pursuit of our dreams.

As Executive Sous Chef for Events and Client Services at the Calgary Stampede, Richard Vitug oversees all aspects of the Stampede Park Catering culinary team. Born in Manila, Philippines, Vitug and his family moved to Calgary where his father, Ricardo, worked to support them. “We were not a rich family but somehow, some way he provided for [us],” he recalls.

While Ricardo passed in 2012, Vitug reflects, “He was a big part of my life and growing up, but I didn’t see it then as I do now. Even [with] all the burdens I put on him, he didn’t complain or scold me.” From Ricardo, Vitug learned the value of hard work, and the importance of being true to himself and his career.

Vitug shares a recipe for his father’s favourite pork skewers, one that was developed by his mother when she was just 17. “Not only [was this] one of my Dad’s favorites, but it also seems to be a favorite of everyone who gets to eat it,” he adds, “These are best served with San Miguel or Corona beer, and family or friends on a warm summer day.” Filipino Pork Skewers

Serves 4

2.25 kg pork shoulder 1 cup kosher salt 500 g garlic, chopped 1 Tbs coarsely ground black pepper

1 can (355 mL) 7-Up 1 cup (250 mL) light soy sauce ½ to ¾ cup light brown sugar 2 to 3 bay leaves 2 Tbs (30 mL) white vinegar 2 tsp seasoning salt

15 cm or 20 cm wood skewers

1. Rinse pork shoulder with cold water while scrubbing heavily with kosher salt. Rinse, drain and dry with paper towel. 2. Trim excess fat and slice across the grain into thin strips about 4 cm x 10 cm. 3. Rub the pork with chopped garlic, massaging it in. Season with pepper, cover and place in the fridge for 2 to 3 days. 4. Combine the 7-Up, soy sauce, vinegar, brown sugar, and bay leaves. At this point depending on your taste, you can add more 7-Up or brown sugar. 5. Remove the pork from the fridge and season lightly with seasoning salt. Add the marinade to the seasoned pork and marinate overnight. 6. Soak the skewers in water at least 10 minutes before use, up to 30 minutes. 7. Start weaving the pork through the bamboo skewers. Depending on size of your strips you may have 2 to 3 strips per skewer. Make sure you leave enough of the end of the skewer to handle. 8. Place skewers in a shallow dish and pour over the reserved marinade. Cover, and place in the refrigerator until you’re ready to barbeque. 9. Remove skewers from the marinade about 20 minutes prior to cooking, and allow to drain. Preheat barbecue on high. Cook skewers for about 2 to 3 minutes each side, allowing sugar to slightly caramelize.

For Heena Mak, co-owner of Edmonton’s Brown Butter Café, food is more than just eating. “It’s about meeting people, the connections we make and the relationships we build, new and old,” says Mak. “Food brings people together, no matter their differences.”

Growing up, Mak says she was very close with her father, whom she describes as “a lover of nature, an outdoor activity enthusiast, a simply beautiful soul.” He’s a professor and a mathematician, and Mak says his lifestyle encouraged her to be structured and organized, two things that are invaluable in the kitchen. “Mise en place,” says Mak – have everything prepped and ready to use – “and clean as you go.”

Stir-fry udon noodles was the first dish Mak made for her father. She says, “that look on my dad’s face, the way his eyes sparkled, is something I will always hold closest to my heart. That was the moment I decided to pursue cooking as a career.” This is a dish she still makes today, and one that her father still enjoys eating. Stir Fry Udon Noodles

Serves 4

2 Tbs (30 mL) vegetable oil ¼ onion, sliced 2 scallions, sliced, green and white parts separated 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ tsp ginger, minced 225 g ground beef ½ cup carrots, shredded ½ cup cabbage, shredded ½ cup mushrooms, sliced

2 - 200 g packages udon noodles 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds

Sauce

2 Tbs (30 mL) soy sauce 2 Tbs (30 mL) oyster sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) mirin or cooking wine 1 tsp (5 mL) brown sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) rice wine vinegar 1. Combine sauce ingredients in small bowl and set aside. 2. In a large pan, cook onion, garlic, ginger, and the white parts of scallion with the vegetable oil for about 3-5 minutes until fragrant and onions are soft. 3. Add ground beef and cook until done, then add carrots, cabbage and mushrooms and cook for another 5-7 minutes until the mushrooms are fully cooked. 4. In a separate pot, boil water and cook the udon noodles. This should only take a few minutes, as the packaged udon noodles should already be cooked. 5. Drain, then add the noodles to the beef. 6. Add in the sauce and mix well. 7. Adjust seasoning to taste. You can add more soy sauce for saltiness and more brown sugar if you like it sweeter. 8. Plate into a bowl and garnish with toasted sesame seeds and the remaining scallion.

Chef Mike Skarbo started cooking while living and traveling in Scotland. After graduating from the Culinary Arts program at Vancouver Community College, he moved to Calgary and worked at a handful of restaurants. Today, he’s the Executive Chef at Rendesvouz Ultra Lounge. “My cooking is influenced by traditional techniques and the products that are in season,” he says. “I find inspiration through gardening, making charcuterie and reading.”

As a youth, Skarbo developed an appreciation for the outdoors thanks to his father, Ben. “Growing up on Vancouver Island, my Dad and I did a lot of salmon fishing together,” he explains. It’s only fitting that he’s sharing his recipe for barbecue chinook salmon. “[It] reminds me of barbequing in my Dad’s backyard, sharing some laughs and telling fishing stories.”

For this recipe, Skarbo says, “Have fun producing it with someone you love.” Buying wild salmon is key - the flavour is more complex than that of farmed, and in most cases, it means you’re supporting smaller, local businesses. Don’t worry about cutting the veggies perfectly, he adds. “In the end, the flavour will be delicious.” BBQ Chinook Salmon with Vierge Sauce

Serves 4-6

2.25 kg Chinook salmon fillet, scaled, pin bones removed

Marinade

½ cup (125 mL) tamari soy sauce 100 g kosher salt 2/3 cup (165 mL) honey 2/3 cup (165 mL) maple syrup 2/3 cup brown sugar 3 cups (750 mL) cold water

1. Combine marinade ingredients and place in a container/resealable bag large enough for the salmon. 2. Place the salmon into the marinade for 12-24 hours. 3. Take out of the marinade and place on a drying rack to air dry in the fridge for 12-24 hours. 4. Preheat barbeque to medium. Add a blend of apple and maple wood chips. 5. Cook at 350º F until the fish reaches 135º F internally (you should start to see oil on top of the fish). 6. Tent with tin foil and allow the cooked salmon to rest for 10 minutes. 7. Serve with vierge sauce and jasmine rice, and your choice of vegetable (Skarbo serves his with steamed or barbecued broccoli).

Vierge Sauce

Makes 3 cups (750 mL)

1-2/3 cups (200 g) cucumber, finely diced, seeds removed 1 cup tomatoes, finely diced, seeds removed 2 Tbs shallots, finely diced 1 Tbs fresh dill, chopped (can substitute dry but decrease amount by half) 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs (100 mL) olive oil 1/3 cup plus 1 Tbs (100 mL) sherry vinegar ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper

Even with over 25 years’ experience, Chef Shawn Jackson of The Guild in Calgary still strives to expand his knowledge. An extensive collection of books allows him to refine his techniques and develop his vision, and he says he is inspired by local farmers, producers, and breweries. “I love how well beer and food go together.”

Jackson credits his father, Edward, with his work ethic, patience, and taking pride in a job well done. He adds that his brother, Stuart, is also a chef in their hometown of Montreal – with two chefs in the family, there must be a few dishes that are family faves. Jackson confirms this: “My Dad always loved to have onion soup, and he always wanted every restaurant I worked at to serve it.”

Jackson’s recipe uses diced onions to make eating easier and is served with lots of crispy edges on the cheese, his father’s favourite part. He also uses stout where more traditional recipes call for brandy or sherry. “When I moved to Ottawa to open the Mill Street Brew Pub, I knew that I was going to have onion soup on the menu,” Jackson adds. “This recipe was for [my Dad].” Stout & Onion soup

Serves 4

½ cup butter 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 kg yellow onions, diced large 1/3 cup (80 mL) tomato paste ¼ cup (60 mL) beef soup paste ½ can Guinness Stout (save the rest for yourself) 7 cups (1.75 L) veal stock 1 cup (240 mL) demi-glace To taste salt and pepper

Croutons:

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil ½ baguette cut into large cubes Chopped parsley, chives and thyme

8 slices of Emmenthal, Swiss, or Cheddar cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 300˚ F. 2. In a large soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add garlic and shallots and cook them for about a minute. Add diced onions and cook until they are fully caramelized, stirring regularly. 3. Season onions with salt and pepper. Add tomato paste and cook for 1 minute stirring often. Add beef soup paste and Guinness and bring to a simmer. 4. Add the veal stock and demi-glace. Bring to a boil, then return to a simmer for approximately 30-45 minutes until slightly reduced. 5. While the soup is simmering, prepare the croutons. Toss the bread in a bit of olive oil, chopped fresh herbs and salt and pepper. Lay them on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until crispy and most of the moisture is gone, around 10-15 minutes. 6. Check the seasoning on the soup, adjust to your personal tastes. Ladle the soup into 4 oven-safe bowls. Place the bowls on the baking sheet to not make a mess in the oven. Top each bowl with croutons and 2 slices of cheese. 7. Melt the cheese in the oven – Chef Jackson uses the broiler setting to get the edges nice and crispy. Top with more chopped parsley or chives and enjoy.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.