Making The Case

MAKING THE CASE Autumn is on its way

By TOM FIRTH

September just might be my favourite month in Calgary. It’s rarely too hot during the day, but the chilly mornings and late evenings keep the insects from being too much bother, It is still nice enough for shorts during the day and outdoor recreation, but in the wee hours, it’s nice to have the patio heater or fire pit going, and enjoy a glass or two.

For many, back to school brings a sense of normalcy, or at least a reason to head off to bed at a normal hour, but it’s a good opportunity to have some nice meals outdoors while the sun is still shining. This month, I’ve tried to cover a wide range of local and international bottles with some that evoke summer, and some that might help us prepare for the winter months. This month as well, we have a few non-alcoholic wines for those that might be foregoing a tipple, but still longing for something a little different.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

La Doncella 2018 Rosado La Mancha, Spain

An almost bone-dry rosé hailing from La Mancha with cool, tasty flavours of generous fruits and mild herbaciousness. A blend of tempranillo, syrah, and merlot really work well here showing off a richer, more flavourful palate that is just at home on a back deck or with some salty snacks of the crunchy kind. Bloody good tipple for a hot day. CSPC +779200 about $20-22

Loxton Non-Alcoholic Sparkling Wine, Australia

There are a great many reasons why someone might opt for a non-alcoholic wine, and it’s wonderful to have more choices than ever before. Loxton’s sparkling wine is a little softer on the nose, letting delicious apple fruits and a touch of biscuit show through. The palate is all about fresh pressed apples, in a light, fresh expression that does lack a little of the body that alcohol can bring, but very refreshing. CSPC +900980 About $8-10

Tantalus 2020 Rosé, Okanagan Valley British Columbia

Tantalus might be deservedly well known for their incredible rieslings, but their rosé is noteworthy too. Made with pinot noir and pinot meunier, this summer-evoking rosé brings out the zesty orange and berry fruits that sing with the acids in this lovely, dry wine for these last warm days. CSPC +740513 $30-34

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

Black Hills 2019 Nota Bene, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

As this iconic Okanagan Valley wine reaches the significant milestone of its 21st vintage, it is also a snapshot of the maturation of Canada’s premium wines. Merlot dominant for only the third time with cabernet sauvignon accounting for about a third of the blend and cabernet franc, and finally a touch of petit verdot to round things out, in some ways, this is a softer, more refined expression that should cellar with grace. CSPC +708073 $63-67

Cloudy Bay 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand

The classic New Zealand sauvignon blanc is so distinctive, so expressive, and so unapologetic, it’s really quite remarkable. Cloudy Bay has long been one of the exemplars of this style of sauvignon blanc with bold as brass, grassy herbaciousness, melon, olive, and citrus, yet fresh and rather juicy on the palate too. A lovely glass for a sunny day. CSPC +737024 $38-41

Peter Lehmann 2018 The Barossan Shiraz, Barossa, Australia

For those that didn’t know, Peter Lehmann was the Barossan, very much responsible for making the famous wine region what it is today, and helping make the style of Australian wine what it is. Rich, velvety berry fruits with a lavish amount of oak character and chocolate tones. Tannins are big, but silky, and overall, a full-bodied shiraz ready for a barbecue. CSPC +795102 $26-28

Submission 2019 Rosé, California

A good rosé at the right temperature can chill the body and warm the soul, they should be a far greater part of our wine selections than they are. The Submission is a spicy blend of grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre showing off subtle, summery fruits, a good core of acid, and a crisp, clean finish. The sort of wine that begs for lighter seafood dishes, a salty appetizer, or a hot day. CSPC +846970 $26-28

Greywacke 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand

A leaner, even meaner expression of New Zealand sauvignon blanc with a steely, mineral driven core to support the olive and gooseberry/melon rind perfume notes. While on the palate, its lean acids and drier, more leafy, grassy flavours than some other examples of the grape. Suited to a warm evening, and lighter fare that incorporates some lemon in the dish or as a garnish. CSPC +836710 About $26

Submission 2018 Red, California

Nothing wrong with finding a wellmade, red blend from California with no mention of specific grapes or appellations. Among other things, you know that value will be front and centre, and likely a clean, fruit-forward expression. Rich and fruit driven with medium body and rounded, open tannins, this is exactly a wine that manages to be a crowd pleaser, but not scare off the seasoned wine enthusiast at your gathering. CSPC +843677 About $26-28

Natte Valleij 2018 Cinsault, Coastal Region, South Africa

Wine geeks rejoice! This is exactly the sort of wine that gets the palate excited. Made entirely from the little-known grape – cinsault and sourced across multiple vineyard sites and different vine ages and plantings. Wickedly floral with dusty strawberry, tart cherry, and peppercorn spices with a hefty dose of beautiful acids. A showstopper and something a little new under the wine sun. CSPC +836998 Around $29-33

Tantalus 2018 Old Vines Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

The Old Vines riesling from Tantalus was long held as one of the benchmark rieslings of Canada, though it could lean towards being a little austere for most drinkers. The approach has softened a little in the intervening years, but what does one get from this vineyard site planted in 1978? Sleek, tart apple fruits, steely acids, and a textbook expression of minerality. Still a benchmark, and still a riesling lover’s riesling. CSPC +740496 $48-52

Spier 2018 21 Gables Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa

One of my favourite examples of chenin blanc, and one from South Africa too! Spier’s has a little oak presence, which is a little different, but it supports rather than takes away from the lemon and honey aromas and mild wooliness. Most importantly, the wine in the glass is balanced, and shows off the character of the grape with the body of a medium oak chardonnay. Lush, tasty, and fun. Try pairing with duck or bolder seafood. CSPC +260646 $30-33

Thomson & Scott Noughty Organic Sparkling Chardonnay, Germany

Part of an emerging trend of quality-focused, non-alcoholic or alcohol-free wines, comes Thomson & Scott with Noughty. The nose is fruit driven with a pleasing toastiness and mineral character, while on the palate, the fruits are clean and tart showing off a cider-apple flavour and good acids and mousse. The lack of alcohol is noticeable, but not something that is “missing” from the palate. A fine alternative for the table or for those abstaining. CSPC +847599 $22-24