A Drink Precedes a Story BY TOM FIRTH
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any years ago in my youth, I really hated whisky. Shocking, I know, but as I gradually came around to appreciating this noble spirit, it was the Irish examples that first captivated my attention as they were often lighter, and in many ways smoother than other expressions, but at the same time they were often less expensive than Scotch, and most importantly to me at the time – almost never peated. For a long time, they were generally thought to be more or less inferior to Scotch examples in the international market. Most were distilled under only a single roof or two in the entire country, and as a rule most were made in continuous stills as opposed to the craft or scarce nature of whiskies from
Scotland and their pot stills with deeper, more complex flavours. According to Andrew Ferguson, internationally acclaimed whisky expert and owner of the Kensington Wine Market in Calgary, “The stage is set for an Irish whiskey renaissance in the years ahead. With around 40 producers making whiskey in Ireland today, many are producing innovative and compelling whiskies which are already competing on the world stage!” In more recent years of Irish whiskey production (in Ireland – it has the “e”) there has been a wild resurgence of distilleries making all manner of interesting and complex spirits and experimenting with various adjuncts, barrel finishing, and of course terroirdriven expressions.
Writer’s Tears Copper Pot Irish Whiskey Ireland Sometimes, I feel like I can relate to this whiskey a little more than others, but there are certainly no tears when it comes to this dram. Bright and citrus-driven on the nose with deep spicy aromas on the palate, it’s toasty, it’s creamy, and above all - delicious with a mild nuttiness and subtle candied fruit character. A fine example of Irish whiskey and extremely well-priced. CSPC +742019 $55-59
Kilbeggan Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Ireland Brand new to me, it’s always wonderful to see another pot still distillation in Irish whiskey. A bit more robust on the nose and on the palate, Kilbeggan also includes oat in the mash which accentuates the cereal character. But what really sets it apart is the spice and floral characters, and the spiciness of the finish, closing on a very enjoyable dried cocoa note. Sure to impress any Scotch enthusiast as well. CSPC +827054 $64-70
Hinch 10 Year Old Sherry Cask Finish Irish Whiskey, Ireland It’s always great to see an Irish whiskey with an age statement, but also with those sherry casks which typically lend a little sweetness to the profile. Toffee and honey notes with lots of cereal character on the nose, but things really shine on the palate with great complexity and a rich texture that just rolls around in the mouth. Bottled at 43 percent ABV, it may be best without a splash of water – but follow your heart. CSPC +826652 $85-90
Tyrconnell Single Malt Double Distilled Irish Whiskey, Ireland A very easy whiskey to enjoy from start to finish, showing off the right amounts of vanilla bean, mild salinity, lemon drop, and oomph on the palate. Bottled at 43 percent, it runs a little hot ( just like the Tyrconnell at its famous race) but a splash of water brings out more of the dried apple fruits and a little more of the spice. Heck of a buy too and a good bottle to have on hand. CSPC +803393 $50-55
24 Culinaire | March 2022
Jameson Black Barrel Irish Whiskey Ireland So named for the additional charring of the casks used, Black Barrel is a little darker in the glass than most others, but on the nose the approach is very much that of smoky, bourbon characters with abundant toffee and dark caramel. On the palate there is a lot going on, but it’s a very smooth approach with sweeter fudge-like flavours and an almost-wild honey finish. Very smooth, very tasty, and good both neat and in mixed drinks. CSPC +750014 $60-65
