Making the Case For BC Wines

MAKING THE CASE

For BC Wines

By TOM FIRTH

Let me root, root, root for the home team….

hether you are a fan of baseball or not, there is a certain W appeal to cheering on the home team, and it’s an important thing to support as many local businesses as we can.

Over the 26+ years I’ve been involved in beverages, the story of our next-door neighbour in wine has seen a great many changes. In leaps and bounds, the quality has elevated British Columbia’s wines to world class in many regards, and they stand tall with many examples from around the globe.

While rarely inexpensive, the wines are indeed priced fairly, and in most cases, each of these wineries are a mere drop in the bucket in terms of how much wine each can produce compared to many of the bigger wineries that grace our liquor store shelves. Even the biggest BC wineries are tiny – often family owned and run enterprises that survive at the whim of nature, relying on the significant talents of the folks involved, and some pretty spectacular vineyard sites. If you’ve never been to wine country in British Columbia, it’s a worthwhile trip – and bring a camera.

In some ways, talking about BC wines is a little like preaching to the choir. They’ve always been good, and in the last 15-20 years, they’ve started being excellent. If one is lucky enough to visit the region, you’ll know that it’s a wonderful combination of incredible scenery, some utterly fantastic dining options, (golf - if that is your thing), and wineries. A quick insider tip, the view is always better from the winery than it is from the highway. It’s far better to pull in for a few minutes than to keep driving - unless you have an appointment at the next winery.

I was prompted to reflect on what has been happening in these wineries over the last ten years or so, and it was a little harder to do than expected. More of the long-time growers have hung out a shingle as winery producers now, lending that expertise in making quality grapes to the finished product. The growth in wineries has been slowing down somewhat, but we have seen further entrenching of who really is making the good stuff. The brands you like are better than ever, many of the vineyards have had their vines replaced a few times now, so have better clonal selections, even better site selections, and also exactly what is being planted where in a specific vineyard.

Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and please email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve and to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. They do sell out rather quickly! We try to cater for all allergies.

Vine & Dine at The Attic

Mother’s Day, Sunday May 8!

Our first Vine & Dine evening at The Attic last month was absolutely superb! We can’t wait to return for a repeat of Chef Lyndon Hertz’s upscale and creative dishes. Grab your mum and join us for six courses of this delicious, carefully paired menu.

One-Off Fine & Dine Pairing Dinner at T.Pot China Bistro

Wednesday May 25

T.Pot China Bistro was awarded the Best Cantonese Cuisine Restaurant in Canada 2018, and we’re coming for a very special, one-off, 6-course pairing dinner to enjoy this elevated and completely delicious cuisine!

Special Surf-Turf dinner at Modern Steak Southport Thursday May 12 SOLD OUT!

Thursday May 26

Our first event at Modern Steak sold out quickly, so we’re thrilled to offer another evening of this fabulous, premium, multi-course pairing dinner in the private dining room for 18 people.

Vine & Dine at Las Canarias

Wednesday June 15 and Tuesday June 21

Always excellent, we love our summery evenings at Las Canarias, and this year we have two nights for this authentic, 6-course Spanish pairing dinner, with some of the best paella in the city, and much-loved dishes from the Canary Isles.

We’re delighted to announce new dates, new pairing dinners, and new menus for you to enjoy an evening of good food where you don’t have to do the washing up afterwards.

The development of the Sub-GIs (or Sub-Geographical Indications) over the past few years has been a real boon for fans of great wines that manage to speak of that sense of place – terroir. Now, in addition to places like the Golden Mile Bench, areas we’ve know for years that produce unique wine are getting that added recognition – look for Okanagan Falls, Naramata, Skaha Bench, and likely others to come. Finally, it’s about the talent – that’s never been better. These things matter.

More recently, after a few years of hiatus, I’ve been judging some of the national Canadian wine competitions again. It’s always beneficial to see, over a few intense days of tasting, a complete snapshot of what is happening “in the bottle” with our wines – without seeing a label, knowing the winemaker, the price, province, or being there – just the liquid in the bottle. What’s been emerging is that Canadian wineries aren’t really chasing the classics anymore. It’s not about a French style of sauvignon blanc, or a classic expression of syrah, or Germanic riesling. The wines are showing off distinctive expressions of Canadian terroir: made in Canada rieslings, earthy, spicy syrah, and some pretty spectacular chardonnays – to name a few.

It's been tough for everyone over the past several years and when it came to finding a selection of wines to recommend this month, it was hampered by a number of wineries that I wanted to support, simply not being available at retail in Alberta any longer. Margins are thin, competition is tough, and wallets are a little thinner in most enthusiast’s pockets.

Quite a few wineries are pivoting to a Direct to Consumer, or DTC model, choosing instead to sell to consumers directly online rather than in a retail shop. While I definitely prefer to recommend products available in our local wine shops and liquor stores, there are circumstances where a sought-after product is only available in limited quantities at the winery. If you see it, can’t get it in a shop here, and want it, it never hurts to contact the winery and check out some options.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards in addition to being the president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers Alberta Chapter.

Hester Creek 2021 Old Vine Pinot Blanc Golden Mile Bench, British Columbia

Often a second fiddle to the incredibly popular pinot gris, pinot blanc may just well be a better fit for growing in BC than it’s better known cousin. Here, look for ripe, apple flesh, lemony tones, and a remarkable (and welcome) floral presence. Impeccable on the palate with great fruits, a lengthy development on the palate and a mild, almost bitter finish. A gem. CSPC +749773 $21-24

Road 13 2018 Jackpot Cabernet Sauvignon, British Columbia

A seriously good bottle of cabernet sure to impress even the most stringent devotee of the grape. Intensely aromatic with a clean, brambly/jammy note but also showing off all those cedary herbal notes ripe cabernet can possess. Palate is big and full and while ready to drink now, a few years in the cellar will soften things up for that prime rib or monster burger you are famous for. A Jackpot indeed! CSPC +841488 $80-85

Quails’ Gate 2020 Chasselas Pinot Gris Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A well-loved bottle around these parts and a rare opportunity to taste a wine made with chasselas – but expertly blended with a few pinots - that still lets some of that chasselas show through. Bright lime citrus characters with stony mineral notes, green apple, and succulent herbaciousness. A clean palate shows off all the great fruits. A lovely glass on a warm day, and a fine match with subtler seafood or freshwater dishes. CSPC +585737 about $21-25

Kitsch 2019 7 Barrel Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

One of my favourite, newer BC wineries we are seeing here in Alberta, Kitsch has a few gems to look diligently for. This chardonnay is more firmly on the oak spectrum than we often see here, but what really makes this stand out is the candy-like citrus and clean tropical notes that work well with that oak. A sleek, sexy chardonnay that is a pleasure to drink. So try to find this one… CSPC +861960 $42-45

CedarCreek 2019 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

While I adore the Platinum tier from CedarCreek, there is simply no arguing with the value and quality of the estate wines. A classic, almost textbook New World pinot noir, with loads of pure and generous fruits, clean herbal tones, a mild tartness on the palate, and a surprising fullness from the tannins. A pleasure to drink, but versatile at the table too. Try pairing with red meats or sausage. CSPC +567412 $30-32

Mission Hill 2021 Reserve Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A wonderful and widely available example of BC rosé, and from a winery that has a well-established history of making great wines. Mission Hill’s 2021 rosé is freshly landed and showing off merlot, shiraz, and pinot noir characters. The nose is a fine combination of blue and red fruits, flowers, and spice, while the palate is a burst of summer with crisp acids, tight fruit, and a near bone dry expression. CSPC +814460 $28-30

Township 7 2020 7 Blanc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A classic offering from the talented folks at Township 7, and a funky blend of several aromatic and flavourful varieties. I’ve tried most of the vintages of the 7 Blanc over the years and this might be my favourite. Crisp, lemony fruits with a strong tropical leaning and a touch of herbaciousness to bring a little added balance. A smidge of sweetness is nicely offset by excellent acids. A tightly wound, crushable bottle. CSPC +114553 $18-21

Tantalus 2020 “Bear” Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A chardonnay that easily checks off all the boxes. A fruit, rather than barrel-driven, bottle with melon or apple characters, a subtle spice, and barrel notes that are almost felt rather than tasted. But there is a clean and still balanced vanilla and buttery profile that are so easy to enjoy. There is a mild nuttiness at the finish, which would be a fine thing to accentuate with seafood or even something like grilled pork or morels. CSPC +784084 $30-34

Culmina 2020 Unicus Grüner Veltliner Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A beautiful expression of a rather uncommon variety. Grüner is typically associated with Austrian wine (not Australian wine) and loved for its pepper spice and citrus profile. Culmina is pretty well the first to work with this grape in the Okanagan Valley. White pepper and green apples with sleek mineral tones and racy acids. Bone dry and delicious, it’s a nice way to go on those warm evenings. CSPC +1126737 $38-41

Bartier Brothers 2019 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Yet another remarkable expression of merlot from the Okanagan, and one of my favourite wineries working with it. Bartier Brothers nails it once again. Deep, ripe berry fruit with a mild juiciness on the nose, but also mild herb and earthy notes poking through. On the palate, it’s seriously good with firm tannins and a chewy, almost smokiness tying it all together. Drinking very well now, but will really shine about 5 years or so after the vintage. CSPC +761518 $36-40

Spearhead 2019 Golden Retreat Vineyard Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Spearhead makes some of my favourite wines from the Okanagan, and their focus on a few select varieties yields fine results and shows off some serious skills. The Golden Retreat is a little harder to find, but completely worth it, as this is a deeply layered and simply fantastic expression of the grape. Ripe fruits with a pleasing raspberry and cherry quality, and exceptional balance throughout. A wine worth stocking up on and serving to treasured guests. CSPC +667782 $44-50

Burrowing Owl 2019 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Given the relatively short time period syrah has had success in the Okanagan Valley, the leaps and bounds this grape has been able to achieve is completely remarkable. Bursting at the seams with intense and pure black fruit aromas but also a clean, savoury earthiness and almost over the top floral notes. Big and full on the palate but well balanced with a bright, white pepper spiciness on the back end. Excellent and delicious, bring out the big guns from the smoker or grill for this one. CSPC +1074184 $45-49