Making the Case

Wines to Grill For… PART III

By TOM FIRTH I didn’t intend to do this three times, but… here we are. With our brutally painful, brisk, and long winters, it seems only fair to hold on tight to the summer days as we move into fall. If at all possible, get all the fresh air you can take, get all that exercise and sunshine you can handle, and just breathe. Stroll around the neighbourhood, brave the crowds at your nearest provincial park or destination, or just relax a little.

This month, as we slowly watch the days get cooler and the nights get colder, it is a good time to talk about chardonnay, a grape some of us love to hate, but one of the most widely known and respected white grapes around the world, along with a few rosés for those in-between days, and a few reds to round things out.

A few grapes that are quite uncommon too – which, if you are feeling bold, might help to excite those tastebuds. Next month, in our October issue, we’ll be highlighting the results of our tenth Alberta Beverage Awards, so if you are looking for hundreds of great wines, beers, spirits, and anything in between – pick up a copy before they’re all gone, this issue goes quickly!

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Cambria 2019 Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, California

I wouldn’t normally call chardonnay a “crushable” grape, but the 2019 from Cambria is finding that fine balance between oak (yes, it’s there) but offset by bright and fairly tart fruits on the tropical spectrum, with a rather delicate floral component. A very clean, very modern expression of the grape that is versatile at the table and for a wide range of enthusiasts. Very nice. CSPC +314237 $30-34

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose 2021 Rosé Provence, France

The best word I can think of to describe this wine has to be “poised”. A gem from start to finish with zesty citrus tones and delicate summer fruits. Quite dry, with a mild sweetness in the fruits, it is the long, fresh, and crisp finish that really ties this together, well chilled on a hot day it’s a treat, but try not to serve it too cold or you’ll miss out on the softer notes. CSPC +863718 $21-24

Peter Lehmann 2021 The Barossan Chardonnay, Barossa, South Australia

Exclusive to the Canadian market, and brand new to our shores, the Barossan chardonnay, – referring to Peter Lehmann himself who basically made Barossa a wine region. Look for zesty lemon citrus characters with a mild spiciness and salinity on the nose moving along to nicely restrained fruits and creaminess letting the nature of the grape – and a little oak shine through. Very tasty and relaxing wine. CSPC +862721 $25-27

El Enemigo 2018 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina

Oh, this is seriously good malbec proudly showing off some of the finer, nuanced characters good malbec can have. I wasn’t sure there was such nuance? There is. Loads of black fruit obviously, but dig deeper and delicate floral tones come through, along with pepper spice and a mild, earthy – dustiness. On the palate, it’s nice and big with chewy, but balanced, tannins and a long, almost graceful finish. Match up with red meats of all stripes, but also good firm cheese will be a treat. CSPC +745020 $32-36

Perticaia 2020 Trebbiano Spoletino Umbria, Italy

An uncommon variety of trebbiano, trebbiano spoletino is found around Spoleto and Montefalco. Dominant with pear and yellow apples, peach and apricot, and a lifted floral character well suited to days near the garden. Richer on the palate than expected with a silky mouthfeel, tropical fruits, and mild bitterness on the finish. Would be a treat with lobster, risottos, or lighter seafood pastas. CSPC +866232 About $29-32

Kendall-Jackson 2020 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, California

A very well known, and delightfully consistent producer that is also quite easy to find at many shops, Kendall-Jackson makes a number of very agreeable, crowdpleasing wines. Well-restrained with oak characters, but showing off dominant apple and citrus fruit, and a zippy acid. Could work very nicely with certain seafood dishes, but better with grilled poultry or even a not too meaty charcuterie board… CSPC +369686 $22-25

Donnafugata 2021 Dolce & Gobbana Rosa Sicilia, Sicily, Italy

Me? I love drinking nerello mascalese any time of day – and I love it just as much in a rosé, here with a little nocera as well. Lively and fresh like any pleasurable rosé should be, with easy to enjoy cherry style fruits, peach, and an intense floral character. Quite dry and more than suitable for chilling on the deck or drinking with lighter fare like seafood or appetizers. Served chilled, but not ice cold. CSPC +860480 $55-60

Perticaia 2021 Rosato, Umbria, Italy

A completely crushable, delectable rosé, this one from Umbria, Italy, and made with the flagship grape of Montefalco, sagrantino. Easy and fresh with summer fruits, but exceptionally, with a mild blackberry fruit that helps it stand out. Crisp and quite dry, you’ll find your glass must have a small leak since it’s gone before you know it. Would be a fine match with sushi or lighter fare, serve chilled but not too cold. CSPC +866233 About $28-31

Chateau Ste Michelle 2020 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, Washington State

Another consistent winery that we’ve been lucky to have in the Alberta market for quite some time is Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. This chardonnay is all about fresher fruits of apple and lemon with a delicate spiciness and expressive creaminess – without too much oak flavour. Easy to enjoy and shouldn’t be served too cold, this would work with creamy pastas, fowl, or even barbecued red meats – that aren’t too spicy or saucy. CSPC +232439 $22-25

Sandhill 2021 Sangiovese Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A small batch rosé from one of the first wineries working with sangiovese in the Okanagan Valley, Sandhill has certainly figured it out. A lighter, quite dry table wine with a clean, abundance of summery, berry fruits, a citrusy, floral aroma, and a long, and very easy-going finish. This is only the second vintage of the sangiovese rosé and it won’t be the last. This little gem is a rockstar on the deck, and a fine match with lighter seafood dishes. CSPC +872153 $25-27

Stag’s Hollow 2021 Shuttleworth Creek Albariño, Okanagan Falls British Columbia

Albariño is quite a common grape in Spain, though all but unknown to be planted anywhere else, so imagine the surprise when Stag’s Hollow went all out with this grape. A bottle that oozes authenticity and uniqueness, it’s incredibly intense with razor sharp acids, a complete bouquet of flowers, and a basket full of dried herbs. Zippy and clean, it’s a wonderful expression that might open the doors to trying other unique wines made in Canada. Try with grilled pork, seafoods, and charcuterie-style snacks. CSPC +808224 $30-34

Stag’s Hollow 2020 Shuttleworth Creek Pinot Noir, Okanagan Falls British Columbia

A good find on the wine front, Stag’s Hollow pinot noir is a rather serious, herbaceous example of a favourite grape. Tart fruits evoking black cherries with a hint of smoke and tar on the nose just over those mild herb and vegetable leaf aromas. On the palate – stunning really, with a fine balance between acids and fruit, tannin, and an exceedingly long, graceful finish. I gladly drank this on its own, but I think it would sing with meats from the smoker, a top shelf steak from the grill, or a selection of cured meats. CSPC +667394 $33-36

Château Ste. Michelle 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Washington State

While cabernet sauvignon is still the king of red grapes, it can be overlooked by other grapes that have really started bringing their “A” games. One of the tastiest and most agreeable cabs I’ve had in a little while, fruits are generous and very slightly jammy with no underripe or bell pepper notes. On the palate, cherries and cassis with lavender and lilac floral tones, finely balanced and with rather subtle and mellow tannins. Pair with a prime rib or ribeye if possible, but might be equally as good with a bacon cheeseburger. CSPC +232793 $20-25