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Culinaire #11.5 (October 2022)

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Saving Summer:

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Oven “Sun-Dried” Tomatoes

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

With the smell of fall in the air, many of us have been busy pickling and preserving the bounty that summer bestowed upon us.

I admit that my big canner did not get put to use, but I did manage to freeze jars of verdant pesto and ruby red raspberry jam. Every time I open the freezer door and see my small jars lined up in neat rows, I know that there will be a time that I reach for them when snow is on the ground, and I’ll be happy that I put the work into saving some summer for the future. And that’s really what preserving is all about - reminding yourself that summer will come again and here’s a little taste of it.

Tomatoes are one of the best things of summer, and if you’re lucky enough to have a surplus, you don’t have to only make salsa or sauce as a way to preserve them. I’m a major fan of sun-dried tomatoes, and while it sounds like more fun to dry them under the Tuscan sun, if this opportunity doesn’t exist for you, you can use your oven to do all of the work.

Sun-dried tomatoes are quite wonderful to have in your kitchen. They have a way of amplifying the flavour of anything they touch; in my mind, they are like nature’s candy. The slow drying process concentrates all their lovely tomato flavour and locks in all of that summer sweetness. Each bite is intense and addictive. The potential downfall of drying tomatoes at home means that there is the likelihood of them being consumed directly from the baking sheet and none left for the refrigerator.

The process couldn’t be simpler: cut tomatoes in half, toss with olive oil and salt, then place on a baking sheet cut side up. Heat and time will do the rest. Keep in mind that the smaller the tomato, the shorter amount of time required to achieve preferred dryness. Cherry/grape tomatoes need about 5 hours for par-dried tomatoes that are still juicy in the centre. Longer time means that they’ll be more dried out.

14 Culinaire | October 2022

If using Roma tomatoes, the time will increase, obviously. This low and slow method of drying tomatoes has to mimic the sun, and rotating the pans every hour will ensure even dryness. Keep an eye on the tomatoes near the end of drying time so that they don’t burn.

When the tomatoes are dried, you can serve them on a charcuterie platter, toss into pasta and salads, or if they’re still a little juicy, they’re quite wonderful alongside eggs. If any remain, the pardried tomatoes can be frozen for future use, and the super-dried tomatoes are super delicious when placed in a jar and covered completely with good olive oil. At this point they can be refrigerated for up to 3 months, or if you leave about 1 cm of space from the top, they can be frozen for up to six months. Chances are that the tomatoes will be long gone before then.

Long live the tomato! Long live summer!

Oven Sun-Dried Tomatoes

900 g large cherry/grape or campari tomatoes 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil 1½ tsp kosher salt

1. Position the racks in the oven so they’re in the top and bottom thirds. Preheat the oven to 200º F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Remove any stems from the tomatoes and cut each in half lengthwise. Transfer the tomatoes to a large bowl. Toss with the olive oil and salt. 3. Using your hands or a slotted spoon, place the tomatoes on the prepared baking sheets, cut side up and space them evenly apart. 4. Place the baking sheets in the oven and cook, swapping the baking sheets from top to bottom every hour or so, for about 5-6 hours, depending on how big the tomatoes are and how dry you want your tomatoes to be. The shorter time will yield a par-dried tomato with a juicier centre. A longer time will create dried tomatoes around the edges with very little moisture remaining in the centre. Let the tomatoes cool on the baking sheets until room temperature. Serve immediately or add to your favourite recipe. 5. To store the less-dried tomatoes, freeze on the baking sheet until solid then transfer to an airtight container. Keep frozen for up to 6 months. Thaw

before using. To store the very much dried tomatoes, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to one week. To rehydrate, add boiling water and drain. For longer preservation, pack the dried tomatoes in a jar, add enough olive oil to cover completely and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months or freeze for up to 6 months.

Each bite is intense and addictive.

Business partners, the Kissels and the Doucettes

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

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