MAKING THE CASE for Big Reds

By TOM FIRTH

Do you ever see or come across one of those “what was happening on your birthday way back when” or who do you share a celebrity birthday with? That sort of thing? Well, I’ll freely admit to doing those (I share a birthday with “Still Sharp” Sean Bean and “Posh Spice” Victoria Beckham) but I also share my birthday with World Malbec Day… which could be worse.

Naturally then, malbec is a good grape to include in an April roundup of wines, but it's not the only wine we should be thinking about gracing our glassware with. This month, I’ve got a few malbecs to share, but also a bevy of other wonderful reds that call out for the barbecue if the drifts have dispersed, but also wines that are warming, robust, and delicious no matter what is on the menu.

All the wines are red this month, in part because of World Malbec Day – but also because it’s probably the month that we get to start grilling – and eating outside again –probably with a jacket on.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Bleasdale 2020 Mulberry Tree

Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek South Australia

A red wine, one-two punch from Bleasdale comes the Mulberry Tree cabernet which has a smidge of merlot and petit verdot behind the scenes. Tar and cassis on the nose with abundant spice notes, and a generous nod to bell pepper and olive aromas lead into brilliant, cabernet sauvignon style flavours with firm – but smooth tannins and a lifted cherry finish. A real quaffer that might be lovely with lamb or meat-lover style pizza.

CSPC 45096 $22-25

Tilia 2021 Malbec

Mendoza, Argentina

An easy going, rather juicy malbec that has aromas evoking pine and cigar smoke to go with those darker berry fruits, but it’s on the palate where this really delivers. Nice and full bodied which is always appreciated in malbec, but rather generous and equally easy going on the palate too with mild tannins (for malbec) and a long and almost refreshing dark chocolate finish.

CSPC 760785 $21-23

Renacer Punto Final 2022

Organic Cabernet Sauvignon

Mendoza, Argentina

I’ve had the pleasure of trying many vintages from Punto Final, and I think this might be the most pleasurable cabernet in recent memory. Cola and cedar aromas with a slightly resinous, cherry note lead into well balanced tannins and a bright mid palate that has a hint of strawberry to go with those earthy spice notes and touch of capsicum. Bring on the cheeseburgers!

CSPC 874767 $20-24

Fontanafredda 2019 Barolo Piedmonte, Italy

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

One of the world’s great red wines, and one firmly attached to a particular grape grown in a particular place. Barolo? It kicks ass. Made with 100 percent nebbiolo, this wine is lightly coloured in the glass with russet tones, but on the nose it sings with nuance and complexity. On the palate, drying tannins and tight acids want food with protein and a little fat too. Perfect with anything like a premium cut of beef, but also a fine match with cheese, or excellent pizza.

$29-32

Ribera del Duero, Spain

I remember when this wine first hit Alberta’s shelves, and it was pretty jaw-dropping then, and still is today. Made entirely from tempranillo and chockablock with cherry and currant fruits, but also a mild citrusy aroma too to balance all those baking spices. Smooth and medium weight on the palate, it’s a fine sipper, but will sing with pork roasts or cured meats. A great buy.

CSPC 754090 $22-26

Cahors, France

Cahors in France is the “original” appellation for the malbec grape, and the home of wildly different malbecs to what we typically see from other parts of the globe. Remarkably floral on the nose with black fruits, and clean, earthy aromas on the palate, the wine carries very smooth, but prominent tannins and a fine balance of earth and spice. A perfect wine for grilled red meats or something big and saucy (and meaty).

CSPC 884531 $26-28

CedarCreek 2021 Cabernet Franc

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

CedarCreek has always had their wines figured out and I can’t think of a single misstep going back as far as I can remember. We don’t see as much from them as we used to here in Alberta, but hopefully that changes. A bright, almost brassy franc with lifted floral notes and clean fruits on the nose, with a generous approach on the palate and a clean, fresh, and very long finish showing off a little cherry/cola too. A very nice bottle to have on hand for the next barbecue.

CSPC 163303 $27-32

South Australia

A relatively new tier from the wellestablished Yalumba winery, focusing on organic fruits and a little more care towards the environment. Very well priced, the liquid in the glass shows off a fairly jammy approach with generous fruit characters and a plump finish that ends a little sweet. Very agreeable, casual wine that checks off the boxes and sure to please fans of unpretentious wine.

CSPC 883814 $23-26

Cono Sur 2021 Bicycle Cabernet

Sauvignon Carmenère, Syrah, Chile

One of the great and consistent good buys out there is Chilean red wine, but also Cono Sur who know how to make them so well, and so affordable. A blend of classic Chilean grapes, this is a well rounded, balanced red with deep cherry fruit, a bit of bell pepper, black pepper, and a bit of meatiness. Tannins are excellent and well suited here to a cheese or charcuterie board, or just whenever a red wine will fit the bill.

CSPC 715036 $16-18

Bleasdale 2021 Second Innings Malbec

Langhorne Creek, South Australia

While Argentina may have a near monopoly on malbec, other places in hotter and drier places can produce it to great effect too. This includes Australia. In the capable hands at Bleasdale, it’s a slightly more unctuous approach than most malbecs, with a slightly jammier, creamier approach letting chocolatey tannins and a slight earthy finish work its magic. Very much a protein-friendly wine, I’d lean towards burgers or steaks ideally. Something a little different but very good too.

CSPC 532424 $22-25

Terrazas de Los Andes 2021 Reserve

Malbec, Mendoza Argentina

Proudly certified sustainable, the thing that really impresses here is how much this tastes like a much more expensive bottle. Deep and bursting with black, plummy fruits, there are crisp acids to balance those tannins and fruit, but give it a moment, and a lean, dried herbal note really shines though. Very nice, and a tremendous value on the shelf. Pair with beef or rich, portobello mushrooms from the grill.

CSPC 735613 About $25-28

Chronos 2020 Cabernet Franc

Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

As a long-time (pun intended) enthusiast of cabernet franc, this one from the Time Family of Wines in the Okanagan is hitting it out of the park. Floral and expressive fruits on the nose with a complex and evolving spicy character that makes cabernet franc so awesome. Ripe fruits on the palate with beautiful spicy characters in harmony with the entire experience. Cellar worthy if that’s your thing, but drinking exceedingly well now.

CSPC 880171 $50-55

Hester Creek 2021 Old Vine Cabernet

Franc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Two great cabernet francs to share? Both from BC? You bet! Some of the most eloquent, well presented cabernet francs are coming from the Okanagan these days where the grape in capable hands ripens well, but shows off the complexity and balance most places don’t get. A leaner, slightly more herbal or herbaceous approach with a floral and woodsy finish, but a solid approach with deep, earthy flavours on the finish. Drink now or keep 5 years or so.

CSPC 740500 $35-38