MAKING THE CASE Cruising the Iberian Peninsula

By TOM FIRTH

The wines of Spain and Portugal are a rich and diverse set of regions generally producing interesting, and authentic wines, and wines that are often made using rare (at least internationally) or indigenous grape varieties. These wines in many ways are purely terroir-driven, authentic wines that are often free of the influence of well known “international” grapes like chardonnay or pinot noir.

Perhaps even better, is that the wines of Spain (and especially) of Portugal are exceedingly good value, and phenomenal at the table with a variety of foods. It would be a disservice to try to sum up either country’s cuisine into broad brushes, but Spain’s culinary highlights are often perfectly suited to the summer months, and Portugal loves robust, flavourful, and often very homestyle foods that Canadian’s love. I sincerely hope you can try several of these wines, and I hope you love them as much as I enjoyed trying them.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Honoro Vera 2021 Rosé, Jumilla, Spain

A blend of tempranillo and syrah, and just 100 percent a fun, easy going, and expressive rosé. Bright and generous summer fruits with some great melon tones too, the zesty acids and dry palate would make for a memorable dinner with grilled seafood, salads, and lighter fare. Serve chilled, but it would be a grave mistake to serve ice cold and supress all those delicate flavours and aromas.

CSPC 780358 $20-22

Martin Berdugo 2020 Verdejo Rueda, Spain

Seriously, the world should be drinking more verdejo – especially in these fleeting summer months. Rather spicy on the nose with melon rind, lime, and a touch of dried herbs. The palate comes alive with all those exotic spices, fresh apple, and a lengthy, expressive finish. I’d gladly pair this with seafood, creamier cheese, and sunshine.

CSPC 830832 $23-26

Lustau La Plaza Vieja Medium Dry Sherry, Jerez, Spain

Summer weather is perfect for the complex wines of Jerez – commonly known as sherry. The real – or Spanish sherries are rarely as sweet as English or Canadian examples of the style, but rich, balanced, and bloody good. A lighter, Amontillado style sherry with mild toffee and lighter woodsy tones, this is a gem with salty snacks and even soft cheeses.

CSPC 819524 $35-37

Taylor Fladgate NV Fine White Port Douro, Portugal

Pretty much the only table wine that I frequently recommend enjoying as both a glass of wine and in a cocktail (seriously – look up a “Portonic”) is white port. Typically very dry, and with a light, tawny colouring, the palate evokes fresh almond flavours, a citrus, and dried fruit profile and a good evolution in the mouth. Serve cool to slightly cold – and check out some cool cocktail ideas too.

CSPC 164129 $22-24

Lustau Peninsula Palo Cortado Dry Sherry, Jerez, Spain

A Palo Cortado sherry is somewhere between a pale and nutty style Amontillado sherry with some of the oxidation notes of the Oloroso. Completely delicious with saline characters, clean almond nuttiness, wonderfully dry, and with a bracing complexity that continually evolves. Serve chilled with fresh almonds or charcuterie style nosh.

CSPC 876136 $40-43

Xistro Ilimitado 2021 White Douro, Portugal

The white wines of the Douro Valley are rather uncommon on our shelves, but this blend of four indigenous grapes (centred around rabigato) is wildly intense, but with clean, recognizable fruits of pear, apricot, and best of all – a lean, steely acidity that brings out some stony mineral tones which just makes this sing. Bloody good.

CSPC 879365 $31-33

Losada 2020 Godello, Bierzo, Spain

A breath of fresh air on a cold day, showing off fresh wildflowers, crushed pears, and lifted stone fruits on the nose. Continuing this trend of crisp, dry, and minerally whites that just check off all the boxes, best of all is this zingy, green apple finish that to my thinking just wants to be enjoyed at the table with poultry, freshwater seafood, or even sushi.

CSPC 866872 $31-34

La Bonhomme 2020 Rosé Valencia Spain

A monastrell-based rosé, and a welcome part of the Bonhomme family of wines (el Petit Bonhomme is a staple around here). A pale, coppery-gold in the glass, the nose shows off orange/citrus notes (perhaps Valencia oranges), black cherries, and a touch of candy stick confection. Crisp and dry with a very easy going flavour profile, this is a summer sipper all the way.

CSPC 788761 $18-20

Adaro de Pradorey 2018 Ribera del Duero, Spain

Oh my, this is a wonderful gem worthy of a special occasion or some guests that you like. Black cherry and currant style fruits with a rich herbal layer and a touch of liquorice too. The 2018 is just starting to really come together (so hang on to a few if you can) with expressive tannins, a fine earthy nuance, and beautiful balance. Red meat all the way for this bottle!

CSPC 861899 $40-43

Condado de Haza 2018 20 Aldeas Castillo y Leon, Spain

Made with 100 percent organic tempranillo grapes, the 20 Aldeas is a wine rife with traditional varietal expressions. Dark, deep, and earthy with great supporting fruits, but at the same time some serious tannin (for tempranillo) and a bright, slightly floral perfume. A solid match with cured meats, or even something beefy from the smoker, it’s a star at your next barbecue.

CSPC 866894 $40-44

Castillo de Almansa 2017 Reserva

Almansa Spain

I’ve been enjoying this wine since about the mid-nineties and it was a stunning deal then and a stunning deal now.

Deeply laden with cherry spectrum fruits but a clean woody note with a pinch of smoke and resin too adds some layers. Very drinkable from start to finish with great acids, firm – but not too heavy tannins, and some clean fruits. Try with pork, cured meats, or hard cheese.

CSPC 270363 $19-20

Xistro Ilimitado 2019 Red Douro, Portugal

Exactly the sort of wine I think about when I talk of authentic, Portuguese wine. From Luis Seabra who focuses on low intervention wines (and old vines), this spectacular red is made from classic Duoro varieties. Rife with red and blue fruits, spice, floral depth, and some exquisite tannins. A steal too, and a fine accompaniment to flank steak, beef kebabs, or yes, a great burger.

CSPC 879364 $31-33

Hacienda las Cañas 2019 Listán Negro Canary Islands, Spain

Wine from the Canary Islands, and also an almost totally unknown, ancient varietal like listán negro? Sign me up, and sign up all the terroir and geography nerds who like wine too. Very pale in the glass (from these 100-200 year old vines) with a deep smokiness and dried berry profile, in the mouth, there is a certain rusticness, but an elegance too which is pretty remarkable. Try with charcuterie.

CSPC 869301 $35-39