MAKING THE CASE for South African Wine

By TOM FIRTH

South Africa is a rather unusual wine region in several regards, it’s a tremendously old wine producing place, but not European or Middle Eastern, so it’s not really part of the “Old World/New World” paradigm, but among its other unique qualities, it’s quite remote from other wine countries of the world, so it’s also isolated somewhat, like Australia and New Zealand. What works for the less isolated countries, might not work for South Africa.

Also, to consider, South Africa has had some problems in the Apartheid era and winning North American consumers back since. Thankfully, since those days, there has been a renewed interest in understanding in the vineyards, better site and clonal or varietal selection, and some rather urgent improvements in their water usage and water practices. Add some established, quality driven winemakers and a new batch of younger winemakers not afraid to buck convention, South Africa nowadays has a strong national commitment to sustainability. It’s never been a better time to experience some of these unbelievable wines gracing our shelves.

During the week of June 12 -16, Calgarians can take advantage of several events, tastings, and culinary experiences featuring Wines of South Africa. Visit wosa.co.za/SAWW

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Radford Dale Winery of Good Hope 2021 Mountainside Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa

So full of chewy, smoked meat characters, this is the vinous equivalent of a roadside barbecue joint. The kind of joint mentioned in half whispers, and no one is ever really sure you’d find it again, or if it would deliver the same sort of holy, existential barbecue we all deserve sometimes. This chewy, wonderful bottle is worth looking for – pair with –what else? Barbecue.

CSPC 810561 $20-23

Boschendal 2020 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa

Chenin blanc is a wonderful, nay –incredible white that does quite well in some places you might not expect. But honestly, some of the best examples come from South Africa. Here touches of honey, dried cereals, and crisp citrusy flavours are supported by tea leaf and some lovely spice. A rock-solid summer sipper that works very well as a barbecue white.

CSPC 804595 $20-23

Glen Carlou 2020 Grand Classique Coastal Region, South Africa

A Bordeaux-style blend from South Africa, and a blend that we really should see more of from way down south. A little riper in the fruit that Bordeaux is most years but still showing off very classical style flavours - rich cherry fruit, spice, and a rather floral undercurrent. Nice and brassy on the palate but tannins are quite agreeable and make for a great value that is drinking well now.

CSPC 153882 $24-26

Spier 21 Gables 2020 Chenin Blanc Coastal Region, South Africa

Some chenin shows off a Hudson Bay blanket sort of wooliness, this one is a bit more about the sheep than the wool. Rich and almost opulent with substance, texture, and the exact opposite of an over-filtered wine. Honey, lemon, and camomile tea come to the table, along with that unshorn sheep giving a touch of natural, organic farm style character. Bloody good, every time, perfect for filling a chenin shaped hole.

CSPC 260646 $31-34

False Bay 2022 Slow Chenin Blanc Coastal Region, South Africa

Another heck of a bottle of chenin that brings all those wooly, spicy notes, but in this case, some added oomph to the nose with melon and a bit of dried lemons too. In the mouth, zippy and bright with a mild creaminess and rich vanilla tones. A bigger wine for the summer months, but one that might be a star at a barbecue too. Delicious.

CSPC 879211 $19-22

Alheit Cartology 2021, Western Cape South Africa

The joy of experiencing a great blend is when it encapsulates the best of each variety. Here, a blend of chenin blanc (yeah!) and semillon (double yeah!) pulls together and makes a tasty, almost sensual experience with wildly intense fruits, deep citrus, and a silky palate and a slightly waxy finish. Delicious, but try pairing with poultry, or good cheese if you can.

CSPC 827717 $44-48

Craven Pinot Gris, Stellenbosch South Africa

We don’t see a ton of pinot gris from South Africa, but this is the sort of wine to change that. Citrusy with lemon drop and a mild woodiness and flinty character on the nose with a fine, steely approach too. Finely – and I mean finely – balanced palate with an overall approach showing little opulence or anything flabby. A tight pinot gris you could bounce a quarter off.

CSPC 801306 $31-34

Lubanzi 2021 Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa

This is a wine that is just shredded. Like a lightweight boxer or MMA style fighter. Finely balanced and a wine that has no extraneous features, but just a pure distillation of what being a chenin blanc is all about. Steely, citrus driven, a little woolly, and all about perfect crispness. Excellent, modern wine that shows off what chenin can be, and a wine that deserves some attention.

CSPC 857756 $18-20

Boschkloof 2020 Sons of Sugarland Syrah, Stellenbosch, South Africa

The right sort of name for the right sort of wine that needs its own theme music. There’s a story here to be told, and I lack the space to tell it, but I can say this bottle is rife with white pepper, violets, and black fruit on the nose with wonderful consistency on the palate too. Clean, spicy (so very spicy), and delicious too, this would be a rock star if brisket or burgers are on the grill or smoker.

CSPC 800170 $31-34

Bellingham The Bernard Series 2018Basket Press Syrah, Stellenbosch,South Africa

I’ve enjoyed this wine a few times before, and it’s always impressive. What I liked best about it this time around is the lovely balance of wild blackberries and a rich earthiness. It started me thinking about the wildest of berries you can sometimes find in the backcountry, and this wine is all about the bear’s blackberries. Wild, delicious, and a little dangerous.

CSPC 814439 $44-47

Boschkloof 2018 Conclusion, Stellenbosch, South Africa

A cabernet franc lead – not quite Bordeaux blend (10 percent syrah is in the mix) red that checks off all the boxes. Spicy on the nose with dried herb and dried wood tones and abundant, but not jammy, fruits lead into a balanced, full bodied red supported by rather tight tannins. Drinking exceedingly well now, it’s also the sort of barbecue match that works if there is a little fat on the steak or a little sugar in the sauce. Damn good.

CSPC 816840 $43-45

Circumstance 2018 Petit Verdot Stellenbosch, South Africa

Only a few select places play around with a varietally labelled petit verdot – preferring instead to let those tannins and floral characters support other grapes, but when the right spot and the right winemaker come together…. *chef’s kiss*. Deep and dark with intense ripe berries and a luscious floral support this is a gem – perfect for a tired palate. Can age in the cellar for a bit, but better idea, pull the cork and heat up some steaks ASAP, this is a treat.

CSPC 817275 $31-35

Journey’s End Honey Bee 2022 Chenin Blanc Viognier, South Africa

An unlikely, but ultimately wonderful marriage of chenin blanc and viognier that also manages to bring out the best of each with wildly floral, but also fruit rich expressions. On the palate it’s wonderfully rich with silken textures and a prominent and generous fruitiness. A fine bottle too for large gatherings. A label that has a strong commitment to the environment and giving back to the community too.

CSPC 407056 $18-20 on most shelves.