Holy Mole: 5 Variations on the classic Mexican sauce

BY MALLORY FRAYN

Mole, pronounced “mole-ay”, and not like the pesky rodents that enjoy digging up your yard, is a complex sauce and Mexican staple that is well worth incorporating into your recipe repertoire. The name itself comes from the Nahuatl word “mōlli” and has a long history dating back to Mesoamerica.

While the exact origin is unclear (the first written recipe only dates back to 1810), Oaxaca and Puebla are the two states that claim to have come up with what is now one of Mexico’s national dishes. One story goes that the elaborate sauce was the brainchild of the nuns at a convent in Puebla, who when told that the archbishop was coming to visit, attempted to scrounge up a feast with the meager pantry they had on hand. When asked what they had concocted, they replied that they had made a mole, which once was another word for “mix”.

Whatever the origins, it is undebatable that mole in all its forms is delicious. And just like the diversity in its origin story, the sauce itself has countless variations that differ based on where they are made, what chiles are used, and what other ingredients round out the mix. Below are five of the most common mole families to be on the lookout for, complete with their ideal pairings.

**A quick note for the food afficionados out there: yes, it is widely held that there are actually a total of seven distinct types of mole. However, the two that were excluded from the list below, mole chichilo and mole manchamantel, are the most rare and so were “triaged” to focus on the more common types in more detail. To avoid further offense, there is also some debate as to which types of mole are subcategories of other types, versus entirely different types, so depending on which list you consult, you may see a different combination of seven sauces listed. As with many foods, the reality may be that there are thousands, if not millions, of different takes on mole depending on whose house you show up at for dinner.

Mole Negro

When we hear “mole” in North America, mole negro is usually the variation being referred to. Literally translated as “black mole”, this version is laden with chiles and chocolate, as well as a laundry list of other ingredients that includes, but is not limited to, peanuts, sesame seeds, and raisins. Many recipes feature upwards of 30 different ingredients! The only downside here is that the complexity of the ingredient list also maps onto the complexity and intensity of the preparation process itself. Not only do you have to procure all your chiles, but you also have to individually toast and rehydrate them before blending the works together. If you’ve got the day off and have 5+ hours to spare, it can be a fun kitchen project, just make sure you quadruple the recipe so you can keep portions in the freezer to thaw and reheat whenever a hankering for mole hits.

Mole negro is fabulous served with poultry: turkey, chicken, or even gamier options like quail or guinea hen, given that the chocolate and chiles can stand up to their richer flavour.

Mole Colorado

Also called mole rojo or “red mole” because of, you guessed it, its rusty, redbrown colour, mole colorado has a similar arsenal of ingredients to mole negro with one key procedural difference; the dried chiles are subject to less charring, causing the colour to stay lighter. A further variation, mole coloradito or “little red mole” sometimes gets a dose of green herbs added in at the end of the cooking process, yielding a paler, red sauce. Similarly labour intensive to mole negro, the colorado/coloradito subtypes require some preparation and planning to put together, but if you’re going to the trouble anyways, why not try making both to taste test side-by-side?

Mole colorado is again great with virtually any poultry. Mole coloradito also makes a stellar enchilada sauce given that it is a bit less potent (read, less spicy) than some of the other moles.

Mole Poblano

While the first two moles described above hail from the Mexican state of Oaxaca, mole poblano comes from the more Northern state of Puebla, thus deriving its name from its birthplace. The product itself is quite similar to mole negro and mole colorado, with a familiar mixture of chiles, spices, nuts, and chocolate, however setting itself apart with a combination of chiles such as ancho, mulatto, and guajillo. Added into the mix is a greater proportion of fruit, including raisins, tomatoes, and sometimes plantains, making it the sweetest of the mole options. Not to be fooled though, it’s also spicy, so the different flavour profiles work to balance each other out!

Mole poblano is pals with poultry. Try it out with duck, which pairs well with the sweetness (think duck à l’orange but chile-centric).

Mole Verde

Mole verde breaks the mould set by the above styles of mole, nixing any inclusion of dried chiles and chocolate, making for a brighter, fresher sauce that is also much easier to whip up without taking the whole day to do so. The base is made up of fresh chiles, largely jalapenos, as well as other green vegetables such as tomatillos, fresh poblano peppers, and herbs like cilantro. At a glance, it may sound quite similar to salsa verde, but where it differs is in the inclusion of ground pumpkin seeds, which help to thicken the sauce. It is also a cooked sauce, whereas salsa verde is typically made by blending roasted tomatillos with a mix of other raw ingredients.

Mole verde is lighter, which lends it well to vegetarian options, like seared tofu. You could also get away with serving it with fish: lightly grilled salmon or halibut, or even sautéed shrimp.

Mole Amarillo

Another distinctive deviation from the red-brown colour palette of many a mole is mole amarillo, which is made predominantly from yellow amarillo chiles (not to be confused with Amarillo, Texas, or the associated George Strait song). The base chiles, chilhuacle and chilcosle, are relatively challenging to get one’s hands on, so may warrant a trip to Oaxaca to procure, although they can also be found online depending on how much you’re willing to spend. This is also a chocolate-free variation, instead showcasing the chiles, warm spices, tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, and garlic. Notably, while other moles are served on more formal occasions, mole amarillo is a staple for street vendors serving up portable fare like tacos and empanadas.

Mole amarillo, as hinted above, works well with more casual eats, and is used to enrobe shredded chicken that is then stuffed into doughy empanadas. You could also use it as a binder for tamale filling.