Step By Step: Chilaquiles

Corn tortillas are a staple in my pantry, and for good reason. They are fantastic for quick suppers of tostadas and tacos, but every once in a while they lose their freshness before I can use them up.

But I’m not sad for too long because that means I get to make chilaquiles! At its most basic, chilaquiles (pronounced

“chee-lah-KEE-lays”) consist of fried corn tortilla chips simmered in a brothy salsa sauce and covered with plenty of cheese. The word chilaquiles comes from the Nahuatl language, meaning chilis and greens. A traditional comfort food dish served in Mexico, the recipe hit the United States in 1898 when it was featured in The Spanish Cookbook, by

Encarnación Pinedo.

The beauty of chilaquiles is that they are so very versatile. Once you’ve got the tortillas lightly fried and smothered in the brothy salsa sauce, you can add a fried egg on top and call it breakfast.

A traditional comfort food dish served in Mexico, the recipe hit the United States in 1898

I like to take a look around the refrigerator and see what needs to be used up. Any little nub of cheese or the remains of a roast are excellent additions. You can switch things up by using salsa verde instead of a tomato-based salsa and the result is quite delicious. Once you’ve tried your hand at making chilaquiles at home, there are plenty of ways to enjoy them.

Not only is this dish affordable, but it’s also great for entertaining since the chips and the sauce can be made a day or two in advance. Chilaquiles are also a great meatless option, and perfect for busy weeknights when you’re in need of a meal that’s ready in under 30 minutes. The fun really lies in the toppings. I love the bite of peppery radish slices and the creaminess of avocado. Pickled red onions would also be fantastic. Chilaquiles with Chorizo and Lentils Serves 4

I love adding lentils to chilaquiles because they boost the nutrition of the dish with added protein and fibre. Topped with crispy chorizo and fried onions, this really is a delicious way to eat corn tortillas.

If you are in a major hurry, you can always substitute a bag of good-quality corn tortilla chips, though the texture and flavour will not quite be the same. If you want to go the vegetarian route, omit the sausage. If serving for breakfast, top with a fried egg.

½ cup (125 mL) canola oil, divided 12 medium corn tortillas, each cut into 6 wedges 500 g chorizo, casing removed 1 large onion, sliced 2 cups (500 mL) your favourite salsa 1 cup (250 mL) chicken or vegetable broth 2 cups (500 mL) cooked whole green lentils Salt ½ cup (125 mL) sour cream juice of 1 lime 1 avocado sliced ½ cup crumbled feta cheese ¼ cup chopped cilantro 6 radishes, thinly sliced 1 lime, cut into wedges

1. Heat a 30 cm skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 Tbs (30 mL) of the canola oil. When it is hot, add about one quarter of the tortillas. Fry them until they are golden and crispy, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes. Drain on a papertowel lined baking sheet and sprinkle immediately with salt. Repeat with remaining tortilla chips. 2. Wipe the skillet out and place it over medium-high heat. When it is hot, crumble in the chorizo and cook, breaking it up with the back of a wooden spoon, until it is no longer pink inside. If you like, cook a little longer until the meat gets crispy. Depending on the fat content of your chorizo, you may have to add a little canola oil to the skillet. Remove the meat from the skillet and drain it on a paper towel-lined plate and cover to keep warm. 3. Stir the onion into the skillet and sauté until translucent. If there is no remaining fat from the sausage, you may have to add a bit of canola oil to the pan. Remove the fried onions from the pan and place into a small bowl to keep warm. 4. Pour the salsa and broth into the skillet and warm over medium-low heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Warm the mixture through for about 5 minutes. 5. Stir the lentils into the salsa skillet and warm through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 6. Add the tortilla chips to the warm salsa/lentils mixture. Toss to evenly coat. Remove from the heat. Cover and let stand for a few minutes. 7. Stir together the sour cream and lime juice. 8. Divide the salsa smothered tortilla chips among four plates. Top with the cooked chorizo and fried onions. Garnish with slices of avocado, feta cheese, cilantro, radishes and a lime wedge. Drizzle with the sour cream/lime mixture. Serve immediately.

Note: If not comfortable frying tortillas or to save time, use about 5 - 6 cups corn tortilla chips from a bag, and proceed with the recipe.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.