Making the case

Making the case in black

& white By TOM FIRTH

Looking across the many, many cases of wine that litter my office, I’m often looking for themes or common threads to organize my tastings. In the spirit of never quite knowing how April will turn out (we could be shoveling snow or mowing the lawn—maybe even on the same day), this

month we look to two of the great wine grapes. Pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, but with a twist—both from British Columbia. What better way to drink local, but also get an early start on spring.

Although the Calgary Edition of Chef Meets BC Grape was planned for April 23rd (now postponed to October), now, more than ever, it’s good to buy and support local whenever we can. Please do consider making your beverage selections local ones.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine. Bench 1775 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Naramata Bench Big lemon and lemon rind aromas on the palate with a minor influence of vanilla. On the palate, that little bit of oak aging has a big influence, cutting back the citrus and lending a little creamy, buttery tone. Pretty agreeable to drink, would handle roasted fowl, or buttery sauces. CSPC +652180 $24–27

38 Culinaire | April 2020 Township 7 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley Coming from the Blue Terrace Vineyard, Township’s sauvignon blanc is pretty awesome. Melon and lemons dominate the nose, but finely balanced on the palate with citrus fruits and zesty acids. A very clean, modern style of the grape, perfect for lighter seafood dishes or poultry. CSPC +34355 $20–25

Evolve 2017 Sauvignon Blanc Okanagan Valley Fresh, summery fruits with melons, gooseberry, and a decidedly mineral quality on the nose and palate. Feels like a touch of sweetness shows up on the palate lending a minor, rock candy/green apple fruit character. Pretty tasty, and an easy wine to enjoy on the deck or patio on a nice day. CSPC +797732 $22–25

Mt. Boucherie 2017 Pinot Noir Similkameen Valley We don’t see a lot of wines from the Similkameen Valley— let alone pinot noir, so this was a bit of a treat. Tight fruits, fresh herbs, and a touch of smoky/spicy tobacco lead the nose, while the palate is well balanced with slightly assertive tannins and zippy acids. Would pair best with earthy or protein-rich dishes with a little fat. CSPC +807653 $29–31

Quails’ Gate 2018 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley For those that think good pinot should have a little “funky” earthiness too it, look no further that Quails’ Gate. Good fruits with a wild, almost brambly depth to the nose lead into a bigger pinot palate with pumping acids and almost chewy tannins. Duck. Duck is what you’ll want here. CSPC +585760 About $33–35

Mission Hill 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley Most BC wine enthusiasts should be familiar with the Mission Hill juggernaut, but their attention to detail and quality winemaking should never be overlooked. This pinot sings with blueberry and raspberry fruits, and mild herbal notes on the nose. Juicy and smashable on the palate, this is a bottle that will go quickly at a get-together. CSPC +731391 $32–35

Clos du Soleil 2017 Fumé Blanc Similkameen Valley Calling a sauvignon blanc a fumé blanc typically means that the wine has seen a little time in a barrel tempering some of the characters of sauvignon blanc with creaminess and vanilla. Expertly balanced with fairly subtle oak and yet still bright with tropical fruits of lime and grapefruit. Try pairing with rotisserie chicken, or grilled kebabs. CSPC +636936 $22–25

40 Knots 2017 Pinot Noir, Comox Valley My first experience with Comox pinot noir (outside of competitions), and a more relaxed tasting setting, lighter in colour with aromas more in the range of strawberries and cranberries than cherry. Light and fruit driven, with a bright tartness and a zingy finish. Not a classic expression, but would be a great tipple on the deck. CSPC +817197 $52–55

Mission Hill 2018 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley A bit more of a “classic” style of sauvignon blanc, and a bit more in the New Zealand camp over most from BC. Tightly wound with almost subtle gooseberry and melon characters along with mild capsicum and olive notes. Very enjoyable, and best with grilled chicken breast, or salmon garnished with lemon. CSPC +388629 $24–26

JoieFARM 2016 PTG, Okanagan Valley Ok, this one is a little bit of a cheat, but it’s so damn good! A blend of pinot noir and gamay noir, the PTG stands for “Passe Tout Grains” a slightly uncommon Burgundian blend. Herb and cherry with slightly smoky, rustic aromas lead into a tightly wound, vibrant palate begging for big cuts of meat or mushroom-based dishes. Excellent. CSPC +823799 Around $35–37

Liquidity 2017 Pinot Noir Okanagan Falls Exactly the sort of thing that good pinot is known for. Clean, floral characters with juicy fruits, and just a tiny touch of dried herbs and vegetable leaf. On the palate, fruit, acids, and tannins are all in balance, making for a very nice glass of wine. Pair with anything really, but this might sing best with pork tenderloins or grilled veggies. CSPC +754435 About $33–35

CedarCreek 2016 Platinum “Block 2” Single Vineyard Pinot Noir CedarCreek’s Platinum line of small production, high level of attention, and focus on making the best wines from these small blocks, is well appreciated. Cherry fruits with floral characters and underbrush vegetative characters dominate the nose, with plenty of nuance on the palate. Damn good, and will get better in the cellar. Match with duck confit if you can. CSPC +808503 about $65–67 JoieFARM 2017 “En Famille” Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley Though the whites might get most of the attention from JoieFarm (A Noble Blend comes to mind), their reds are attentionworthy too. The excellent “En Famille” pinot noir is seriously tasty with deep floral characters, riper fruits, and a healthy amount of earthy goodness on the nose. Can cellar a bit, or drink soon to let zesty acids show through. An ideal match with salmon. CSPC +761223 $45–50