Award winning Alberta-made spirits

BY TOM FIRTH

ach year, I’m lucky enough to be one of the judges for the Canadian Artisan Spirits Competition. What that means in practice, is that several hundred blind sample bottles (of a few ounces each) in five or six boxes show up at my door. The bottles bear ominous labels, like 12/401*. The first number represents the category (i.e. gin, contemporary vodka, etc.), the second is the sample number, and the asterisk in this case indicates an additional criterion.

This means that in a morning of judging, one should lump together a small flight of like products and get cracking. From experience, I’ll also share that tasting a flight of 10–12 gins is a hard way to start a morning. Taste, assess, repeat, and do so for as long as your palate and focus will last. Each judge is given several weeks to work through the blind samples, scoring using some templates and guides. It’s hard work, though it makes for an odd workspace when underway.

What this competition really does is show the state of craft distilling in Canada, as each product has to impress enough of the judges from across the country who each might have a regional influence or preferred style. Does a prairie judge like rye? Does a certain liqueur alienate one judge but sway another? This is hard and diligent work indeed.

The outlook is also looking great for Alberta, our very young craft spirit industry is kickin’ ass and taking names, as many did very, very well at the competition this year.

Opposite, is a small snapshot of some of the best Alberta-made products from this year’s competition, complete results can be found at artisandistillers.ca.

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Prices are approximate, and some products might only be available from the distillery. Products with a CSPC code may be available from select retailers as well.

Award winning Alberta-made spirits

Strathcona Distillery Barrel-Aged Gin (Gold, with Distinction) I like barrel-aged gins. In the right hands a little oak tempers the intensity of the gin and adds layers of interest too. Strathcona’s has a fine blend of vanilla and citrus on the nose and palate. Delicious. CSPC +789514 $60 at the distillery

Wild Life Distillery Alberta Botanical Gin (Gold, with Excellence in Terroir) This is the sort of gin I love to drink. Evoking a springtime walk in the mountains or a hike in early fall. Sourced completely from Alberta foraged botanicals. It’s good, and Alberta-made. CSPC +810442 $52 at Wild Life

Strathcona Distillery Badland Seaberry Gin (Gold, with Excellence in Terroir) A London Dry style of gin with locally sourced Seaberry (sea buckthorn) in the aromatics. My blind notes loved the bright and peppery aromas, and how this gin tasted like it comes from somewhere. Which is right here in Alberta. CSPC +787815 $50 at the distillery

Eau Claire Parlour Gin (Gold, Best in Class) A stalwart bottle in Alberta’s craft pantheon, with a number of richer, subtler characters and tempered juniper notes on the nose. Big and ballsy on the palate, it’s a solid gin for any day of the week. CSPC +789514 $50 at Eau Claire

Grit City Coffee Liqueur (Silver) One of my favourites from the competition, it’s quite sweet, but exemplifies the richness and roast of good coffee and makes for a fantastic liqueur with no bitter flavours. Perfect for any fan of the style. $35 at the distillery

Confluence Distilling Vinland Akvavit (Gold, Best in Class) Akvavit is possibly the next new thing in craft spirits and a number of great examples are quite new to our market. Confluence’s is brassy with all that caraway and dill with a delicious brine/ salinity. Tasty and cocktail versatile. CSPC +814153 $50 at Confluence

Eau Claire Distillery Prickly Pear EquineOx (Gold) Very well known to many Albertans, the EquineOx delivers a remarkably tropical aroma with a clean, and well-balanced palate. Goes very well in lighter, summery cocktails that benefit from a little je ne sais quoi. CSPC +789511 $50 at Eau Claire

Stone Heart Distillery Gin (Gold) A smashable gin and fairly versatile with all sorts of well-integrated botanicals on the palate. Fine stuff and a good one to keep on hand. CSPC +804174 $45 at the distillery

Grit City Distillery Forbidden Fruit Gin (Bronze) New to me, Grit City is calling Medicine Hat home, and they had a strong showing here. The Forbidden Fruit treads a delicate balance of letting the gin carry the day, but with some softness to the fruits. Well balanced and pretty too. CSPC +830192 $42 at the distillery

Wild Life Distillery Barrel Aged Gin (Gold, Best in Class) Fairly subtle on the oak, but definitely there, this barrel-aged gin is enthusiastic with well-chosen botanicals lending a zesty juniper foundation to the experience. Tasty gin, and suitable where enthusiasm is wanted. CSPC +812647 $59 at Wild Life

Stone Heart Distillery Vodka (Silver) A fine vodka made in the heartland (near Innisfail) Stone Heart is rich and silky, perfect neat or in many mixed drinks. CSPC +785419 $40 at the distillery

Tippa’s Lovebird Gin (Bronze) A popular and locally made gin, it’s potent and spicy but also really well balanced with a tight, dense juniper base. Exceptional in classic cocktails too. CSPC +817159 $43–47

Black Diamond Wheat Vodka (Bronze) Smooth, in a nutshell, so damn smooth with mild tropical notes and a bright clean finish. Finely made vodka here. $45 at the distillery

Black Diamond Spiced Cranberry Liqueur (Bronze) A cranberry liqueur that isn’t too sweet, but also maintains good expression of the fruit and a wonderfully restrained dose of sweetness with good spice. Warms up a cool day with style. $38 at the distillery (seasonal availability)

Confluence Manchester Dry Gin (Bronze) A gin that hits all the boxes with tightly wound, expressive botanicals with subtle cucumber and berry characters. Zippy and dry, this begs for raucous cocktails for two or G&T by the pitcher. CSPC +812027 $48 at the distillery

Latitude 55 Moonshine (Bronze) Hailing from Grande Prairie, Latitude 55 is making a pretty solid shine here. Specifically, I like the nose and the weight on the finish, but it’s easy to see the potential too of what this base spirit can do with some age. CSPC +820331 $45–50