Open That Bottle

...with Ernie Tsu

BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

“M y family owns the Silver Dragon, which has now been around for over 55 years. Funny thing is they didn’t want me working in the industry, so I never really worked at the restaurant there,” says Ernie Tsu, co-owner of Calgary brewpub Trolley 5. Coming from restaurant stock, Tsu developed a passion for the industry in his teens, and the boy who, at 16 years old, lied about his age to become a busboy at a local bar, dropped out of school. He met his mentor, Todd Perkins, at the Sea

Horse Maritime Restaurant and Pub. “It used to be called the Claudio’s Group, and at that time they had over 20 properties.

So I was a general manager by the time I was 21,” Tsu explains.

He became the company troubleshooter, moving around the different locations to turn the businesses around.

“I started off in fine dining, then went into pubs, then went into nightclubs, started

DJ-ing, and circled back to fine dining,” he adds. “So then it was like a roller coaster between fine dining, the pub chains, nightclubs, and premium casual.”

Tsu has always had a passion for wine and beer - wine first, but while he was kickboxing, he started drinking, and enjoying, beer more. He developed a passion for suds while he was in the UK, and started home brewing. “The end goal was always to have a brewery - and you know, I’m kind of living that dream right now,” he smiles gratefully.

His business partner in Trolley 5 is PJ L’Heureux, founder of Craft Beer Market and a competitor when Tsu owned 1410 and 1600 World Bier Houses, but they met while Tsu was with the Craft company, and decided to partner up on a brewery. “As soon as the location came open here at Melrose, I said I’d like to put my hat in the ring too, for a concept that I think would be perfect for 17th Avenue,” says Tsu. “So that’s how Trolley 5 came to be. Because PJ and I are both born and raised Calgarians, we named Trolley 5 after the trolley car system that used to run down 17th Avenue, which was route number five.”

And it’s their fourth birthday; Trolley 5 opened with 16,000 square feet and 500 seats one week before Stampede 2016, and they’re going strong despite having to pivot for the pandemic. The brewery has been very well received, and they’re pretty proud that every one of their core beers has won at least two awards.

Most recently, because of the pandemic, Tsu has been instrumental in founding the Alberta Hospitality Association, an advocacy group and voice for the industry. “We were very concerned that we weren’t getting enough support from government,” he says. “Our industry is the number three employer in Alberta, but was not being addressed at all. There just wasn’t enough focus on what we actually do for our community.”

Charities and non-profits stepped up to let the government know that without the hospitality industry, they’re in big trouble. Where are they going to host their events? Without restaurants, there won’t be chefs donating their time for dinners where 100 percent of the proceeds go to the charity. The association has had great traction and the government has listened.

So what bottle is Tsu saving for a special occasion?

“Though my passion is beer, I also have a massive love for wine, and I have a beautiful bottle of Barolo that’s sitting in my basement ready (for opening) and a 2006 Dom (Pérignon) that’s in my fridge as well,” say Tsu.

“I’ll probably pop that open once we’re back at 100 percent capacity – that’s worth celebrating. Well, hopefully if we get back to a 100 percent capacity.”