by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

The Rise and Fall and Rise of Gin

BY DAVID NUTTALL

“Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, she walks into mine.” G in had its beginnings as a medieval medicinal remedy in several cultures that had the “Glorious Revolution” drove James II from the throne, and he proceeded to inhibit the importation of brandy - Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart) in Casablanca (1942). established distilling practices and had and wine from Catholic countries by access to juniper berries. Eventually, attaching high tariffs and taxes to the it reached northern Europe where products. To fill this void, he abolished “Genever” became popularized by the taxes and licensing fees for grain spirits Dutch in the 13th century. The word such as gin and, by the early 1700s, itself is an English shortening of the London had become the gin-producing Dutch word for juniper. capital of the world.

Through the late 1500s, British With the British Navy exporting gin troops fighting against the Spanish in around the globe to help suppress the the Dutch War of Independence found bitterness of the quinine-containing the juniper-flavoured spirit they drank tonic water they drank to prevent gave them what was called “Dutch malaria in foreign outposts, one of the courage” in battle. earliest and most famous mixed drinks

In 1688, Dutch Protestant William was born. By 1850, the less sweet London of Orange and his English wife Mary Dry had become the most popular style became co-rulers of England after of gin. continued on page 36 Copper Cork Distillery Rhuby Gin, Vermilion Ochre colour, sweet, with a berry-rhubarb flavour. CSPC +828150, $38

Troubled Monk Epitaph Blue Gin, Red Deer Light, floral violet notes and a dark blue colour. CSPC +819966, $45

Wild Life Distillery Barrel-aged Gin, Canmore Bourbon meets gin with a light amber colour. CSPC +812647, $56

In Europe and the Americas, for much of the 18th through to the first half of the 20th century, gin was the most consumed spirit (whether produced legitimately or not). Because distilling was not the refined process it is today (and illegal production was close to undrinkable straight up), gin was more palatable than vodka and moonshine because the juniper flavour helped mask the harsh unpleasantness of low-grade grain spirits.

Of course, cheap and plentiful alcohol has a way of creating, shall we say, a less sober population, and gin began to earn its reputation as the drink for “gin-soaked” drunks. Its relative ease of production made it the illegal liquor of choice during Prohibition, leading to the development of “bathtub” gins drunk in “gin-mills” and “gin-joints” or other disreputable bars and speakeasies. It maintained its following legally after the repeal of Prohibition, primarily because it requires no aging, unlike whiskies and rums. experimentations

As distillation processes improved, by post World War II, vodka had become the liquor of choice, thanks to its flavourless qualities and versatility in mixed drinks. The next 60 years saw gin sales plummet as vodka and unaged white rum sales soared. However, as the new millennium arrived, craft distilleries brought gin back as the favourite base spirit for experimentations. As the cocktail enjoyed a rebirth in popularity, the exciting options provided by gin saw a resurrection in its sales.

In Alberta, where craft distilleries only arrived in the 2010s, the number of

gins available grew from around 120 in 2014 to over 500 today, with more than 50 regular lines produced in Alberta alone (not counting special editions). While vodka is still king of the white spirit category, gin is closing in on white rum for second, and has the largest growth of all three over the past few years. It is a long way from its glory days, but gin’s popularity is trending up.

Gin’s uniqueness comes from the mixture of botanicals and spices introduced into its juniper-infused grain spirit base. Distillers and master blenders can add ingredients based on recipe requirements, price, availability, locality, or even whimsy. Alberta distillers will often highlight native plants, but they will also blend in foreign elements or create a combination of both, allowing for an infinite variety of possibilities. Also, unlike vodka, gin is usually redistilled after being infused with these ingredients, leading to a crisper,

As the new millennium arrived, craft distilleries brought gin back as the favourite base spirit for

higher quality spirit.

Most gin made today is a variant of the London Dry style; clear, less sweet, full of juniper flavour, with a tinge of the botanical additions. However, in the past few years, gin has pushed the boundaries of its own definition, resulting in colourful variants, many of which only hint to the classics of yore, and barely pay a passing nod to its juniper roots.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow David on Twitter @abfbrewed.

Tippa’s Wood Duck Oaked Gin, Okotoks Light amber colour, with subtle tannins from French Oak. CSPC +815220, $48

Strathcona Spirits Pinot Gin, Edmonton Aging in French and American white oak Pinot Noir casks produces pear, apricot, and plum flavours and a pink salmon colour. CSPC +828395, $60

Eau Claire Saskatoon Honey Gin, Turner Valley Yellow colour, sweet, and full of honey aroma and flavour. CSPC +833379, $60

Also look for citrus gins, ones made with local berries, and seasonal releases.