Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Re-setting the Bar:

From Public House to Private Residence

BY KEANE STRAUB I PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

REMEMBER WHEN WE couldn’t wait to get to Friday? It was the end of the work week, something to look forward to, and a chance to blow off a little steam and put aside the hustle for a bit of fun with good friends and good food. As we’ve all come to discover, these days a free-and-easy Friday eve at the local pub with a group of friends, and watching the game or enjoying live music, isn’t an option.

This month, we spoke with four Alberta chefs who gave us their spin on pub favourites. We were delighted to discover that instead of menu staples like wings, dry ribs, nachos and beef dips, the dishes created in pubs today are a reflection of Alberta’s cultural diversity. And, they’re a great way to cap off the work week, whatever that looks like these days.

Chef Joseph Lavergne, of Calgary’s Rose. “On my days off, I really look Freehouse, says that for the last forward to cooking with her.” They 10 years, he’s been fortunate to work enjoy cooking variations on Rose’s with some of the most driven and grandmother’s chicken curry, a dish that talented culinary professionals in the has become a staple in their household, industry. The variety of locally sourced and one that Lavergne says is the perfect products ignite Lavergne’s creativity. end to a long work week. “But,” he continues, “the most inspiring thing to me would have to be the people and patrons. I feel so blessed that I can provide people with an amazing dining experience.”

While he admits that he doesn’t get out to the pub much, and these days even more so, he says it’s important to put one’s day-to-day life aside for a minute and enjoy food, drinks, and good company, even if we’ve had to adapt what that means. “I do love a good seven-layer dip,” he says, along with chicken wings and cabbage rolls: “Who doesn’t love a good homemade cabbage roll?”

And when it comes to company, Lavergne’s choice is often his daughter, Chicken Curry

Serves 2

1 Tbs (15 mL) neutral oil 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 cardamom pods 3 bay leaves 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 3 Thai chilies 7 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbs fresh ginger, minced 6 chicken thighs, skin on 1 large tomato, diced 3 Tbs fresh coriander, chopped 1 Tbs turmeric 1½ cups (375 mL) water or chicken stock To taste salt and pepper 1. In a medium pot add oil, cumin seed, cardamom, and bay leaves. Heat on medium until spices become aromatic. 2. Add onion and chilies, and cook until onions are translucent. 3. Add garlic and ginger, and chicken thighs skin-side down. Brown chicken until just over half cooked. 4. Add tomato, coriander, and turmeric. Cook until the tomatoes break down and start turning into a smooth consistency. 5. Add water or stock, season with salt and pepper, and continue to cook for about 20 minutes, or until desired consistency is reached.

Fresh, seasonal ingredients play an important role in the dishes created by Diana Nacita, the executive chef/kitchen manager at Calgary’s King Eddy. Growing up in the Philippines, she recalls going to open-air markets with her mother. “What I thought was a chore as a child, has now become my biggest source of knowledge. To be able to adapt to produce seasonality is a huge drive for me to be creative.”

At the pub, Nacita favours a good beef dip, or roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, both of which remind her of moving to Alberta after culinary school, and being independent. “Pub dining means comfort for me. You’re in a casual setting, with friends – I miss that! – and you just have a great time.”

For Nacita, one of the best parts of working at the King Eddy was the live music. While she didn’t get to see the shows, she could still hear the sound checks, the full sets, and the audience. “I miss live music so, so much,” she says. She’s certainly not alone! Livestreamed music is something Nacita takes full advantage of: “I can cast a show on my TV and eat from the couch!” Live from your living room, your fave band, and a batch of Nacita’s spring rolls! Lemongrass Chicken Spring Rolls

Serves 2- 4

Filling:

900 g ground chicken ¼ tsp baking soda ½ tbsp garlic, minced 2 Tbs shallots, minced 1 cup carrots, peeled and grated 1 Tbs lemongrass paste 1 tsp ground coriander seeds 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola or vegetable oil ¼ tsp dried chili flakes 2 Tbs (30 mL) fish sauce 1/8 tsp ground black pepper

12 sheets spring roll wrapper 1 whole egg, whisked Oil for frying 1. Place filling ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Cover and place in fridge for at least 2 hours. This will ensure the flavours will be fully incorporated into the ground chicken. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. Place filling in a Ziploc bag, seal and cut off one bottom corner to create a piping bag. 4. Place a spring roll wrapper on a clean work surface and squeeze the mixture along the bottom of the wrapper. 5. Brush edges with the whisked egg and roll it up tightly: start at the bottom, roll once, then fold sides in towards centre and continue rolling all the way up. Repeat until all filling has been used. 6. In a heavy-bottomed skillet heat 4-6 cm of oil over medium heat until it reaches 350º F. 7. Fry spring rolls in three batches. Don’t overcrowd the fryer or the temperature will drop, and the spring rolls will stick to each other. 8. Remove from fryer, place on a wire rack to drain excess oil. Serve with sweet chili sauce or atchara (pickled papaya).

Rob Filipchuk describes himself as a “hands-on owner/operator” at The Glass Monkey in Edmonton, and enjoys being involved with all operations in the gastropub, both front and back-ofhouse. From eating a spit-roasted pig in the Balinese jungle to dining in Michelin star restaurants in France, Filipchuk says his global education on food and culture is incredibly valuable. “These travel experiences have had a great impact on many, if not all, of the menu items at The Glass Monkey.”

Creating the pub experience at home doesn’t take much, but it’s the details that count. He suggests taking the time to plate and finish a dish; setting the table, using the good glassware, creating a fancy cocktail with a beautiful garnish, or even just playing music can all enhance the way we dine at home. “I find it’s also fun to print up a menu for the evening,” he adds.

He says he’s easy to please at the pub, and he keeps his eye out for menus that use off-cuts, local produce, intriguing flavour combinations and unique cooking techniques - things that say the kitchen is invested in what they’re serving. “When the kitchen is engaged and interested in their work, great things can happen!”

Korean Style ‘Galbi’ Beef Short Ribs with Vietnamese Pickled Cucumber Salad

Serves 2-4

1 1/3 kg beef short ribs, thin cut (Korean or ‘Galbi’ style)

Marinade:

1¼ cup (310 mL) soy sauce 1 cup (250 mL) pineapple juice ¾ cup brown sugar ½ Tbs ground black pepper 1 Tbs garlic, minced 1 Tbs ginger powder or minced fresh ginger 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 1 Tbs dry mustard powder ½ cup green onions, chopped ½ cup (120 mL) red wine 1 Tbs (15 mL) Tabasco sauce ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil Vietnamese Cucumber Salad

Salad:

½ cup red onion, thinly sliced ½ cup red pepper, thinly sliced 1 long English cucumber, thinly sliced

1. Combine all ingredients for the marinade and mix well. 2. Marinate short ribs in the mixture for a minimum of 6 hours, up to 24 hours. 3. Preheat barbecue or grill pan to medium hot, brush surface with oil to prevent sticking. Grill ribs for 3-5 minutes per side until done medium-well. Marinade:

1 cup (250 mL) vinegar 2 Tbs Kosher salt ½ tsp Tabasco Sauce ¾ cup sugar 1 Tbs minced fresh garlic 1 Tbs chopped fresh dill 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil

Combine marinade ingredients and mix well. Add onion, red pepper, and cucumber to marinade and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to 24 hours or longer if need be.

Marc Bourgeois of The Derrick in Calgary, feels the best way to improve as a cook is learning from new foods, both preparing and eating them. “Learning why something didn’t work is often more beneficial than knowing why it did. Luckily, when you cook, you still get to eat your mistakes!”

Born and raised in Montreal, Bourgeois has lived in Calgary for the last 15 years. Growing up on a vegan diet and having a well-travelled father meant he experienced new and different foods from an early age. Combined with a love of travel and a girlfriend with a Korean background, Bourgeois says, “I always seem to incorporate some of my French and Acadian roots into my cuisine.”

His recipe for baked Brie and apple compote expresses his French connection, and it’s perfect for sharing, whether you’re having a quiet night with a loved one, or perhaps watching a game.

For Bourgeois, sports and the pub go hand-in-hand. “[It] doesn’t feel quite the same unless someone is calling insults at the TV with the game on. At home, there will always be a game on in the background.” Baked Brie with Spiced Apple Compote

Serves 4

Compote:

¼ cup unsalted butter Juice of 1 lemon, divided 680 g Granny Smith apples cored, peeled, cut into ½ cm wedges (keep in water with juice of ½ lemon to prevent oxidization) ½ cup brown sugar ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp red chili flakes 1 cinnamon stick (or ¼ tsp ground cinnamon) 2 pieces star anise 1 whole clove (or 1/8 tsp ground clove) 1 cup (250 mL) beer

1 baguette 1 package phyllo pastry ¼ cup (60 mL) melted butter 200 g wheel of Brie To taste salt and pepper 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 425º F. 2. Heat a medium sized pot on medium heat and add butter. Once melted, drain apples and add. Cook until half soft. 3. Slice baguette 2 cm thick. Line a baking sheet with foil and lay out slices. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake until golden brown, about 7-10 minutes. 4. To the pot with apples add the brown sugar, salt, red chili flakes, cinnamon, star anise and clove. 5. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking. Over-stirring will break up the apples and make applesauce! 6. Once the moisture has almost evaporated, add beer and remaining lemon juice. Cook until syrupy. 7. On a cutting board, place 1 sheet of phyllo pastry and brush the surface with melted butter. Place another sheet of phyllo on top and brush the top of this sheet with butter. Place Brie in the center of the pastry and bring corners of the pastry towards the center gently pressing together to make a pouch shape. Drizzle any remaining butter over top of the Brie and bake for about 20 minutes or until golden brown. 8. Generously spoon compote onto baked Brie, serve with crostini, and enjoy with good company!

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.