cultivate
FOOD & TRAVEL
the foodie issue
cultivate EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sophia Smilovitis CONTRIBUTORS Daniella Germain Dr Robin
cultivate-online.com
CONTENTS VOLUME 1 ISSUE 1 MAY 2011
EDITOR’S LETTER
FOOD
THE FOODIE ISSUE PASTA LOVE AFFAIR DR ROBIN ON FOOD COOKBOOKS DANIELLA GERMAIN
TRAVEL
FOODIE DESTINATIONS
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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Food glorious food...
Sophia Smilovitis Editor-In-Chief editor@cultivate-online.com 4
‘‘
inspire passion & awaken desires...
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The wonderful nature of food is its ability to bond people, create memories, inspire passion and awaken desires. A few years ago I declared myself ‘the worst cook in the world’ after a series of culinary disasters, that included a packet-mix cake failure, which rather dented my confidence. However, I rediscovered a love for cooking after picking up Sophie Dahl’s cookbook and being inspired by the beautiful simplicity of her recipes and photographs. Now I am an avid foodie who loves to cook and though I still suffer the odd culinary mishap from time to time, I continue to spend time appreciating, learning about and loving food. In this issue we look at changing food industries and I share some of my most loved cookbooks to inspire you. Enjoy!
the
FOODIE
issue As society increasingly becomes aware of the value of good food, the industry is responding with a food revolution.
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It seems like the whole country has gone food mad lately.This may be due to the heightened media attention on chefs and produce thanks to a certain cooking show franchise that shall remain nameless (for once). All the attention has highlighted however, important questions that consumers have about where their produce comes from and how it was grown or raised. In the face of public outcry over animal cruelty in meat production and vegetables laced with disease inducing chemicals, producers and suppliers are having to raise standards to meet public demand.This is now spreading to the fast food and restaurant industries where consumers are asking that they apply the same standards to their kitchens that are employed in their households.As a result there are cafes, restaurants and other food outlets cropping up everywhere in Australia that use sustainably sourced ingredients and organically certified food items. There has been a large shift in attitude by consumers towards quality over quantity and the industry is listening. A recent visit to fish and chip shop The Groper and His Wife in Western Australia highlighted the difference that using quality, local produce makes to a store as simple as a fish and chippery.The fish, caught straight out of the ocean that morning, was as good as a fillet in a five star restaurant. Every restaurant and cafe should be like this. It’s worth seeking out the places in your area that are supporting local suppliers and delivering customers with the best they can get their hands on.After all, it’s right in your back yard.
Freshly caught fish are filleted at The Groper.
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FREE RANGE FRESH & SUSTAINABLE PRODUCE
These restaurants, cafes and takeaways are highly commendable for their commitment to using locally sourced, free range, organic or sustainable products.
PERTH Greenhouse Amazing tapas and cocktails, 100% sustainable and local. 100 St Georges Tce, Perth WA 6000 (08) 9481 8333
Coode St Cafe The best eggs benedict in Western Australia hands down. 24 Coode St, Mt Lawley WA 6050 (08) 9385 7384
The Groper & His Wife Fresh local fish and homemade salads are some of the best around. Shop 4, 31 Gayton Rd City Beach, WA 6015 (08) 9385 7384
Loafer Bread Organic Bakery The most perfect sourdough in Melbourne. 146 Scotchmer Street Fitzroy North, 3068 (03) 9489 0766
Savvy Organic Pizza All organic, gluten free options are fantastic. Shop 3 Belgrave Arcade, 1647 Burwood Hwy Belgrave,VIC 3160 (03) 9754 6642
Fish & Co. Amazing sustainable seafood cafe is a dining sensation. 41 Booth Street Annandale, NSW, 2038 (02) 9660 5575
Agape Certified organic restaurant & bar with brilliant tapas. 1385 Botany Road Botany, NSW 2019 (02) 8668 5777
MELBOURNE The Press Club Chic and contemporary Greek cuisine in serious style and great location. 72 Flinders St Melbourne Victoria 3000 (03) 9677 9677
SYDNEY Becasse Fresh produces straight from the farm. L5/Westfield Sydney, Cnr Pitt St Mall & Market St Sydney, NSW 2000 (02) 9283 3440
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our
love affair with
P
asta
pasta feature
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The only ingredients you need to make pasta are flour and liquid. It is as simple as that.This tutorial uses an Italian flour called‘tipo’ flour or‘00’ flour. It is a very finely milled flour that is perfect for doughs like pasta and pizza dough.This recipe uses whole eggs as the liquid component but you can use just egg yolks for a richer pasta. In the case of using egg yolks, simply double the amount of eggs.
Step One Place the flour in a small mound on a large clean work surface. Make a small well in the flour and add the eggs to the centre. Using a fork, lightly beat the eggs until combined and begin to add small amounts of flour from the edges being careful not to let the liquid escape. Continue to slowly incorporate the flour to the eggs until a dough-like ball begins to form. Step Two Using your hands begin to work with the pasta, kneading until the ball starts to feel silky and not floury.This process should take a few minutes.There is no special technique to kneading, just simply push the dough out with your palm or fingers until the gluten develops in the dough and it feels stretchy and silky.At this point cover the dough well with cling wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Step Three Remove the dough from the fridge and mould it with your hands into a flattish disk. Dust a little flour on both sides. Secure a pasta machine to your bench and click the knob onto the widest setting (usually the largest number on the dial). Feed the dough through once. Click the machine down a setting and feed the dough through again.Take the dough, fold it in half lengthways and feed it through the largest setting again.Then feed it through the second largest setting again. Repeat this process another 5 times so that though dough becomes silky and pliable.Then working your way through each dial, feed the pasta through each setting from largest to smallest, dusting the pasta sheet with flour to prevent it from sticking. Once it has passed through the smallest setting it is ready to be cut into shapes. Work with this pasta sheet very quickly as it does not take long to dry out.
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pasta feature Step Four For the recipe below the pasta will need to be made into a tagliatelle shape. Most pasta machines will come with this attachment and the shape is made by feeding the sheet through the attachment as was done when making the sheet. If you do not have an attachment however, simply fold the pasta sheet over four to six times on itself and using a very sharp knife slice the pasta into slim strips by hand, being careful not to drag the knife through the dough. Once the strips are created dry them over a rounded surface such as a broom handle or wooden spoon for a few hours until dry, however the fresh pasta can be used almost immediately.
PASTA AL BURRO WITH PARSLEY AND PINE NUTS
Pasta Al Burro translates to‘Butter Pasta’ in English and is one of the best ways to enjoy freshly made pasta.The simple sauce is readily complimented by fresh herbs and nuts but is just as decadent served plain with a shaving of Parmesan.
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Ingredients
Method
2 handfuls fresh pasta 2 Tablespoons butter 2 Tablespoons olive oil 50g freshly grated Parmesan handful parsley 2 Tablespoons pine nuts Extra Parmesan to serve
1. Heat a medium sized saucepan (3/4 full) of salted water until boiling. 2. Meanwhile, place butter and olive oil in a frying pan over a medium low heat until melted and simmering.Add the Parmesan and stir through for several minutes. 3.Add the fresh pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente..This will not take long as the pasta is fresh. 4. Drain pasta, reserving a tablespoon of cooking water, and add to the butter mixture. Stir through until thoroughly coated. 5. Serve with chopped parsley, pine nuts and a shaving of Parmesan.
dr. robin
finding food By Dr. Robin
From the first mouthful of solid food we are spoon-fed as an infant our experience with food begins. It usually starts with a bland, mashed concoction of vegetables, fruits or cereal until teeth emerge and a greater variety of flavours and textures can be consumed. The wide range of choices available from Italian pasta, Indian curies, Mexican fajita’s or Chinese noodles all make the cooking and eating experience so enjoyable. Unfortunately I’m not that interested in cooking, although I feel I should be with the glut of cooking shows, cookbooks and celebrity chef’s ruling the airwaves and winning accolades. Many have the status of rock stars and earn just as much. For years I have been the Cooking Mother churning out family meals everyday till I’m quite fed up with it. I watch the enthusiastic people on cooking shows enjoying every minute of the fast paced meal preparation and just can’t see the point. “Cook from the Heart” they all admonish but my heart has never been in it. However, this has not diminished my love of eating good food and the
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enjoyment of sharing a good meal with others. I was raised in a large family and my Mum was a great cook. I remember the wonderful birthday parties she would prepare for us with the hot roasts and baked dishes. In particular I remember the deserts; the sticky pavlova, fruit trifles baked cheesecake and layered sponge birthday cakes. We would all gather around the table and celebrate whoever’s birthday it was with wonderful food and family fun. We didn’t receive expensive gifts because money was short but I haven’t forgotten the memorable food cooked by Mum for our birthdays. In reality, food is meant to keep us alive and sustain our bodies. But it is much more than this. It is part of the fabric of living and plays a huge part in our daily existence. We eat when we are hungry, unhappy, wanting a pick-me-up or socialising. And when we eat, we are building memories and forging experiences that enrich our life. So enjoy that next sticky date pudding or chocolate mousse cake and have a lasting, happy memory of the joy of good food.
COOKBOOKS A FEW FAVOURITES
This is a collection of outstanding cookbooks created by celebrity chefs and cooks. Each are a highly commendable collection of achievable recipes to create at home.
Gwyneth Paltrow’s first solo cookbook was a big surprise to critics, featuring easy and really good recipes. $30
Gizzi Erskine has created a brilliant book of recipes including lots of kitchen tips to help perfect your skills.
Jamie Oliver goes back to basics and creates recipes using produce from your own garden. Fresh & inspiring.
Fleur Wood’s book shows you how to entertain in serious style with an impressive collection of recipes.
Learn how to do everything from making pasta to preparing squid in this brilliant cookbook from Jamie.
Sophie Dahl’s cookbook is a beautiful collection of simple, fresh recipes that inspire the senses.
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my ABUELA’S
table
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When Daniella Germain handed in an assignment for university she never imagined that it would lead to a published cookbook...
interview The managing director at Hardie Grant, Julie Pinkham, discovered the work when she helped judge student work at Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. The graphic designer and illustrator left a career as a social researcher at the Cancer Council to pursue freelance illustration and design after her book was published. The cookbook is a beautifully illustrated collection of traditional Mexican recipes handed down to Daniella by her abuela; her grandmother. What made you decide to change careers and study design? I think I always had it in the back of my mind that I wanted a career in design, in fact I wanted to study graphic design straight out of school but was encouraged to study psychology instead – the safe option! I don’t actually regret studying psychology as it has given me some great opportunities over the years, but I had always regretted not following my dreams to study design. It was actually my sister that encouraged me to change careers, and I don’t think I would have done it without her faith that I could do it. How difficult was that decision to make? Not that difficult at all! I knew I was unhappy with my career and had not motivation to do further study in that area (which was essential for career development). The only thing I was worried about was not earning the money I had been used to for so long. It turned out that I didn’t have to worry too much as I was able to continue my research career part-time while studying…which is very lucky as I had a mortgage to pay! Everything seemed to fall into place when I made the decision, so I knew it was the right decision to make. How has your life changed since the book was published? It’s been great. I’ve finally been able to quit my research job, taking the plunge into full time freelance work. I’ve been very lucky as my publisher has also kept me very busy with book design and illustration work, which I have been loving. If it weren’t for my book I would not have had the great opportunities that have been presented to me. I have also
been offered other job opportunities from people who have seen my book in bookstores. And of course it’s very bizarre receiving emails from complete strangers telling me how much they love my book. It’s been so lovely to get such great feedback. I feel very lucky. What made you decide to create a Mexican cookbook? My mum had passed down my Abuela’s (Mexican grandma’s) recipes about 5 years ago, so I always had it in my mind that I would like to do something with them one day. Last year, in my final semester of my Communication Design degree at RMIT, I enrolled in a publication elective as my major.The brief for the class was to put together a 64 page book on what ever topic we liked. I immediately knew I had to take this opportunity to put my Abuela’s recipes together, and didn’t think twice about illustrating the whole thing as I was directing my career toward illustration. It worked out brilliantly and I enjoyed every moment I worked on the book. I hope that is obvious in the final product! How has your family’s heritage influenced your approach to food? I think with the experiences that I have had, visiting my family in Mexico, I have a stronger appreciation of the power that food has in bringing family together as a means of celebrating each others company. Being time poor I don’t cook Mexican as much as I should, but I do try to apply similar spices, and methods to my daily cooking. I used to get frustrated that I would have to call my mum up to get recipes off her, but now I have my own book I cook out of! It’s bizarre!!
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interview
POLLO EN VINO BLANCO CHICKEN IN WINE
Serves 6
Ingredients
Method
12 pieces chicken (thighs, wings, breasts or drumsticks can be used) salt and pepper 1/4 cup oil, for frying 500g onions 2 cups white wine 2 cups water 2 chicken stock cubes 2 bay leaves 1 kg small or new potatoes, cubed 1 cup button mushrooms
Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper to season. Heat oil in a deep pan and fry the chicken until brown. Add onions, wine, water, stock cubes, bay leaves, potatoes and button mushrooms. Cook slowly for 25 minutes (if using chicken breast on its own) or 45 minutes (if using chicken thighs or other part of the bird). Serve with small dinner rolls or tortillas.
3 questions QUICK
WITH DANIELLA GERMAIN
Favourite recipe from your book? Flan de Yemas (caramel flan) – it’s to die for! Best café in Melbourne? Oooh, that’s hard. The Bircher muesli at The Breakfast Club on St Georges Rd in Northcote can’t be beat. Favourite ‘foodie’ destination? Mexico (of course) and Japan…ooh I love Japanese food.
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top
FOODIE
destinations
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Where tourists once flocked to international destinations purely for historical landmarks and scenery there has increasingly been a shift in travel purely for the purposes of indulging ones gastronomic fantasies. For every tourist lining up to see the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, there is one lining up at Pierre HermĂŠ and LadurĂŠe to try their world famous macarons. Recent research has shown that 1 in 10 travellers are choosing a destination for its food experiences,
as a matter of priority. Italy is one of the most popular gastronomic tourism destinations in the world with a reputation for stellar cuisine and, increasingly, destinations such as Greece and Columbia are high on the list of international foodies for their world class cheeses and coffee, respectively. Here is Cultivate’s list of top ten foodie destinations (in no particular order) and the local delights that inspire the senses.
top10
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Paris, France predictably present on nearly all gastronomic tourism itineraries, France’s love of good food is legendary. From roasted quail to chocolate tarts, nobody does bistro like the French.When in Paris the sweet lover cannot go past the windows of Ladurée or Pierre Hermé without being drawn in for a macaron. It is worth seeking out traditional French bistros aimed at satisfying the local palette instead of the many tourist traps that can provide a less than satisfying experience.
Bologna, Italy Pasta, pasta, pasta! There is no doubt that Italy’s popularity is owed to our insatiable appetite for the best carbohydrates in the world. Bologna is considered the food capital of Italy by serious foodies and between the pizza and the pasta you should want for nothing but don’t forget to try out the local specialities like Trippa Bolognese or a delicious Buonissima cake.
Athens, Greece Breads, cheeses, olives, seafood and pastries are just some of the reasons why Greece is one of the most popular food destinations in the world. Local cuisine ranges from simple salads served with octopus and tomatoes to amazing layered pistachio pastries. Greek lamb is famous for a reason and is a must have when visiting. Other gastronomic delights include spanakopita which
Beijing, China From complex spicy fusions to simple dumplings, China is a food paradise.The main local speciality of this region is roasted duck and treating yourself to a duck banquet in a great restaurant is a gastronomic delight. Mongolian lamb, fried rice, noodles and dumplings are the tip of the iceberg when it comes to listing the must try dishes in Beijing.
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GASTRO tourism
Istanbul,Turkey Considered by many to be one of the greatest food destinations in the world,Turkish food is fragrant, wholesome and packed with flavour. Local dishes to try include patlican dolmasi which is a stuffed eggplant dish and pilav which is a rice dish made with local specialities such as fish. For dessert you will not find a better baklava anywhere than in its native country and Turkish tea will provide a refreshing finish to any meal. Bogota, Columbia Columbia is a word synonymous with coffee. Some of the best bean blends you will ever try will come from this region and the Columbians are keen experimenters blending their coffees with a variety of flavours and spices. Coffee is often served with local pastries and doughnuts. Other local dishes worth trying are Ajaico, a richly flavoured stew and Fritanga, a set of barbecued dishes.
San Francisco, USA The foodie capital of America, San Francisco is a flourishing gastronomic region with an amazing array of wines, cheeses and local produce to rival the best international competitors. Try crepes with Mushroom sauce from Ticouz or a local clam chowder.
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Tokyo, Japan Seafood lovers flock to Japan for the best sushi and sashimi but Japanese food is about so much more than that.A tourist experience for the most diehard seafood lover is a trip out with local fishermen who will capture, fillet and serve fresh fish straight out of the water for you to eat. Dishes to try include Miso soup, Tonkatsu – deep fried pork cutlets and Okonomiyaki – a dish made from flour eggs and cabbage with regional toppings. Mexico City, Mexico Real Mexican food is a world away from the greasy molten blobs of cheese and refried beans that many western countries have interpreted it as. When in Mexico try all the local specialities such as tacos, quesadillas made with fresh tortillas and pozole soup to discover what the authentic dishes are meant to taste like.You will be blown away by the intricacies of the flavours in these dishes.
Marrakech, Morocco This colourful destination is renowned for its famous tagine dishes cooked in the hot ashes for hours until meltingly tender. Local specialities to try include briouates which are Moroccan pastries similar to Samosas, a variety of couscous dishes and delicious almond pastries for dessert.
Photographic contributors to article: Dimitry B, Kevin Gibbons, Steve Evans, Nicholas T, Carlos Van Vegas,Tatyana Temirbulatova.
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