Feb/March 2023

Page 165

Gucci ArtLab is more than just a place to refine and road test new designs—it’s a dedicated think-tank and research lab devoted to the brand’s sustainability efforts. TRAVELING ALONG THE MOTORWAY from the ornate epicenter of Florence to its industrial peripheries feels like zipping through the fabric of centuries. Renaissance-era palazzos slowly give way to rows of squat 1960s apartment buildings, and later to low-slung warehouses and gray-faced factory complexes. The irony of this nondescript sprawl is that a good portion of Italy’s high-end leather accessories are developed and produced here. What began centuries ago as a Tuscan artisan leather tradition has evolved into a booming industry, largely fostered by the high concentration of luxury brands that call this Florence suburb home. But while most hide their operations behind anonymous concrete walls, one stands out: Gucci ArtLab, a sprawling campus devoted to prototyping, sustainability, and artisan education. The 37,000-square-meter space is a stark departure from Gucci’s former factory and workshop, the stately Palazzo Settimanni in Florence’s Oltrarno neighborhood that dates back to the 15th century. The brand was founded by Guccio Gucci, a native Florentine who immigrated to London in 1897 to work as a porter at the Savoy, one of the most luxurious hotels of the era. Day in and day out, Gucci ferried well-to-do tourists and fin de siècle stars through the hotel’s lavish halls, studying their refined trappings: polished steamer trunks, drumlike hat boxes, and soft leather suitcases, all monogrammed with their owners’ initials. He brought those memories home to Florence when he returned in 1902, and then to life 19 years later, when he founded the house of Gucci out of a small storefront on Via della Vigna Nuova. There, he sold the same kinds of sumptuous luggage and travel accoutrements he had coveted during his early years in London, expertly constructed by the master craftsmen of his hometown. Over a century later, the brand continues to employ the artisans of Tuscany—but its methods of

production have evolved with the times, largely thanks to the innovation of the Gucci ArtLab, which launched in 2018. In front of the vast, two-story complex, visitors are greeted by bright, whimsical murals by artists such as Angelica Hicks and Ignasi Monreal. The building’s exterior is awash with vibrant illustrations, but its interiors are pristine. Wide glass windows punctuate the whitewashed hallways, framing busy workshops where teams of artisans stitch together bag and footwear prototypes, and tidy laboratories full of chemists and engineers test the coming season’s collection before approving it for production. In one lab, a glossy robotic arm jostles a mannequin—clad in Gucci tweed and wearing two of the brand’s signature crossbodies—as if it were a marionette doll. The jerking movements mimic the effects of several months of wear, revealing how daily life would shape and stress the leather, seams, and hardware. Gucci ArtLab is more than just a place to refine and road test new designs—it’s a dedicated think-tank and research lab devoted to the brand’s sustainability efforts. In 2021, Gucci reduced its total environmental footprint by 49 percent, a cut that Antonella Centra, Gucci’s executive vice president, general counsel, corporate affairs, and sustainability, credits in part to sustainable solutions and initiatives developed at ArtLab, including Gucci-Up, which reintroduces scrap leather and fabric into the production cycle; and the development of Demetra, the house’s own eco-friendly, animal-free material. “Though we are a leather brand at heart—Guccio Gucci opened our first store in Florence in 1921—it’s important for us to offer alternatives to those consumers who are looking for animal-free options,” says Centra. Derived from wood pulp, Demetra undergoes a chrome-free tanning process similar to genuine leather, resulting in a soft

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Gucci ArtLab is more than just a place to refine and road test new designs—it’s a dedicated think-tank and research lab devoted to the brand’s sustainability efforts.

3min
pages 165-167

MATTAFORMA

7min
pages 152-161

AGENCY —AGENCY

1min
page 151

ESTUDIO FLUME

1min
page 150

MINJAE KIM

1min
page 149

LIMBO ACCRA

3min
pages 147-148

LADI’SASHA JONES

1min
page 146

COOKING SECTIONS

1min
page 145

INTERVAL PROJECTS

3min
pages 143-144

POCKETS OF OUR OWN UNIVERSE

12min
pages 134-141

In the lobby of MoMA for the past few months, a huge

8min
pages 132-133

The artist Jim Shaw’s

8min
pages 124-128, 130-131

KELSEY ASBILLE

1min
pages 120-121, 123

HAVANA ROSE LIU

2min
pages 116, 118-119

QUINTESSA SWINDELL

2min
pages 112-115

JACK DYLAN GRAZER

1min
page 110

MAKING HOLLY WOOD THEIR OWN

3min
pages 104-106, 108-109

Kid Cudi by to be Vulnerable

7min
pages 90-91, 93-94, 96, 101-102

Social Networking

4min
page 82

The Butterfly Effect

6min
pages 78, 80-81

Hidden Treasures

2min
pages 76-77

Wanting, Love, and Loss

5min
pages 74-75

Ballet, Pig Farming, and Art-Making

5min
pages 72-73

Encounters with Endlessness

4min
pages 70-71

Close-Knit

1min
pages 66, 69

This Time Tomorrow

1min
page 64

Empathy in Bronze

1min
page 62

Still Waters Run Deep

1min
page 60

Lost and Found

1min
page 58

The Truth Comes Out

4min
pages 54, 56

LETTER EDITOR from the

1min
page 52

CONTRIBUTORS

1min
pages 46, 48

CONTRIBUTORS

1min
pages 44, 46

CONTENTS

1min
pages 42, 44

CONTENTS

2min
pages 36-37, 40

Gucci ArtLab is more than just a place to refine and road test new designs—it’s a dedicated think-tank and research lab devoted to the brand’s sustainability efforts.

3min
pages 165-167

MATTAFORMA

7min
pages 152-161

AGENCY —AGENCY

1min
page 151

ESTUDIO FLUME

1min
page 150

MINJAE KIM

1min
page 149

LIMBO ACCRA

3min
pages 147-148

LADI’SASHA JONES

1min
page 146

COOKING SECTIONS

1min
page 145

INTERVAL PROJECTS

3min
pages 143-144

POCKETS OF OUR OWN UNIVERSE

12min
pages 134-141

In the lobby of MoMA for the past few months, a huge

8min
pages 132-133

The artist Jim Shaw’s

8min
pages 124-128, 130-131

KELSEY ASBILLE

1min
pages 120-121, 123

HAVANA ROSE LIU

2min
pages 116, 118-119

QUINTESSA SWINDELL

2min
pages 112-115

JACK DYLAN GRAZER

1min
page 110

MAKING HOLLY WOOD THEIR OWN

3min
pages 104-106, 108-109

Kid Cudi by to be Vulnerable

7min
pages 90-91, 93-94, 96, 101-102

Social Networking

4min
page 82

The Butterfly Effect

6min
pages 78, 80-81

Hidden Treasures

2min
pages 76-77

Wanting, Love, and Loss

5min
pages 74-75

Ballet, Pig Farming, and Art-Making

5min
pages 72-73

Encounters with Endlessness

4min
pages 70-71

Close-Knit

1min
pages 66, 69

This Time Tomorrow

1min
page 64

Empathy in Bronze

1min
page 62

Still Waters Run Deep

1min
page 60

Lost and Found

1min
page 58

The Truth Comes Out

4min
pages 54, 56

LETTER EDITOR from the

1min
page 52

CONTRIBUTORS

1min
pages 46, 48

CONTRIBUTORS

1min
pages 44, 46

CONTENTS

1min
pages 42, 44

CONTENTS

2min
pages 36-37, 40
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