YOUNG MAN’S STYLE GUIDE AND REFERENCE TOOL
EDITORS LETTER DEAR READER,
ELCOME TO THE FIRST EVER EDITION OF DUKE W MAGAZINE. ‘WHAT’S THAT?’ I HEAR YOU YELL. LET ME FILL YOU IN. IF YOU ARE A YOUNG GUY, INTERESTED IN FASHION, YOU ARE IN THE RIGHT PLACE. USE IT AS A STYLE GUIDE, REFERENCE TOOL, TO FEEL INSPIRED, WHATEVER YOU DESIRE. THE ISSUE IS CRAMMED FULL OF INTERVIEWS, TRENDS, LABELS, DESIGNERS, TRAVEL AND IDEAS ALL INTENDED TO EVOKE A PASSION WITHIN. IF YOU WANT TO FIND OUT WHAT REALLY MAKES US TICK, CHECK OUT OUR BLOG AT WWW.DUKE-MAGAZINE. BLOGSPOT.COM VALUED READER, THIS IS FOR YOU, GO ON AND GET STUCK IN.
LOVE,
EDITOR X
CONTENTS PROFILE: SHOE CORNER TREND: SOCK IT TO ME Q&A: MATTHEW MILLER Q&A: SIBLING CATWALK: BAND OF OUTSIDERS GROOMING: BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER INTERVIEW: HARRIS ELLIOT PHOTOSHOOT: LONDON’S CALLING OPINION: A MUMBLE AND A GRUMBLE TRAVEL: GOING DUTCH?
BROGUES
SHOE CORNER IF THE SHOE FITS Step into this season with sturdy yet stylish footwear Brogues are a comfy, resilient, low-heeled form of footwear known to often have charming perforations and possibly a toecap, after all the beauty is in the details. According to some, they are the classic Autumn shoe. If you aren’t in possession of at least one pair, where on Earth have you been? They are in fact DUKE magazine’s favourite ever shoe. With so many choices, from semi-brogues, which have plain heels, to ghillie brogues, which have no tongue and laces, it is impossible to go wrong. Unless you are a lover of the two-tone brogue, which frankly no one should be. Originating from Scotland in approximately the late 1500’s, but produced in the factories of Northampton, brogues traditionally have an outer layer of leather which has holes punched through in a pattern. Whilst this is for decorative purpose, it is also pretty darn practical. Scotsman wore brogues in the wet and boggy highlands and the double layering of the shoe meant that their feet did not get wet, as the shoes were quick dry. Smart indeed. Once upon a time, brogues had a reputation as being a little, well, lacklustre. Known for being textbook office shoes, your granddad probably has a pair. They have however gained status due to their increased popularity at Fashion Week, and for their reliability, like that woolly jumper you always come back to when Winter hits. All it comes down to, is how they are worn. A pair of shoes is always the ultimate accessory, finishing off any outfit and brogues are no exception, quintessential British eccentricity to a tee. They are dapper, timeless and suave. They undeniably have endurance, proving themselves since the 1930’s when Tinseltown film star Warren Williams sported them. Skip a few decades to the 1960’s and Skinheads, influenced by the clean-cut style favoured by mod’s, paraded round in clumpy Dr. Martens or loafers, however they were partial to a pair of brogues, as were Suedeheads. An extension of Skinheads, Suedeheads favoured a more formal image, thus they indulged in brogues to give a dressier feel to their look. Stylist Simon Foxton embodied a crucial modification of menswear in the eighties when he juxtaposed conventional British tailoring with streetwear and references to gay culture. Fusing sportswear with distinctively masculine brogues cemented his vision. Ray Petri, also a stylist, was influential in the move away from eighties power dressing creating the ‘Buffalo’ fashion period. This toyed with an edgy street look as well as cultural imagery, resulting in the pairing of suits with a Native American headdress. Petri, too, teamed brogues against tracksuits. For the best in brogues, head to John Lobb, Church’s and old faithful Marks and Spencer. These brands have stood the test of time and continue to thrive. If you favour an edgier spin on brogues, vintage ones will do the trick, so head to Rokit or Beyond Retro to get your fix. London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010 was as enamoured by brogues as DUKE is, exhibiting them at A Child of the Jago Mens show in black leather, murky chocolate brown and caramel suede, proving that brogues have enormous staying power. Solid black leather brogues complemented nearly every look at Carolyn Massey and Mr. Hare, who showcased some incredible (and by incredible we mean handmade-in-Italy-incredible) brogues at the Fashion East installation.
Top Five Brogues.
It seems brogues are here to stay, invest now. 1. Mr Hare www.mrhare.co.uk Hefty price tag but breathtakingly beautiful brogues, so beautiful that you may not want to wear them. In the words in Mr Hare ‘shoes you can attach some romance to.’
2. Church’s
3. Loake
4. Rokit
5. Reiss
www.church-footwear.com
www.loake.co.uk
www.rokit.co.uk
www.reiss.co.uk
Founded in 1873 and taking up to eight weeks to make one pairquality is everything.
Straight from Northamptonshire and surprisingly reasonable prices considering they are handmade. Seen on Andrew Flintoff, Adam Ficek and Kevin Spacey.
Industry professional scour here on a weekly basis due to the endless assortment of handmade brogues, from various decades at reasonable prices.
High quality brogues that don’t break the bank.
TREND
SOCK IT TO ME Ideally, a pair of socks should be comfortable, expertly made and give your wardrobe that zing it desires. Loafers with rolled up trousers and a flash of a coloured sock seem to be the way to do it, but how will you wear yours? DUKE had always thought of socks as more of a necessity than a trend, however this season, they push their way into the spotlight This Autumn/Winter 2010, a mini menswear trend has caught our eye. Socks and wait for it, hosiery. Really, you question? Yes, yes, yes, this season, they become astoundingly cool. A simple way to switch up your outfit in a flash, worn pulled up, rolled down, or just peeping out from under your chinos. The etiquette is simple, black socks should be worn with black shoes, white socks if you wear white shoes. Michael Jackson was however notorious for pairing white socks, with black leather trousers, breaking our number one rule- not the best look. The only substantial no-no however is teaming socks with sandals. In the eighties socks were hot property. Ankle socks, were undoubtedly the article of clothing of choice and when it came to styling, layering was how to do it. Assorted coloured socks, one over the other, two maybe three pairs erupting out of a shoe, defined the trend. For women, ankle socks united with high heels was an additional mismatched must of the era. Socks are an often over looked yet crucial element of attire that can make or break an outfit. They are possibly the easiest and cheapest way, to update your look whilst adding a smidge of individuality this season. Autumn/Winter 2010 observes a variety of socks and hosiery worn in a number of diverse or bizarre ways on the runways of London Fashion Week.
TREND
CAROLYN MASSEY was not a lover of the sock, so much as the hosiery. Offwhite fishnets were paraded in an unreserved manner under three-quarter length trousers, as well as worn beneath knee length leggings. One look took layering to the extreme with fishnets worn with leggings and a jumpsuit.
GIEVES AND HAWKES Flickers of baby blue or cream ankle socks underneath a black pleated smart trouser, emerging from an elegant brogue. Nevertheless, the collection was littered with predominately standard black ankle socks, yawn.
ETRO too, quirked things up with some intricate purple paisley design socks under every pair of trousers, a look DUKE loved, but one to be left to extroverts.
COMME DES GARCONS Some shocking Barbie pink ankle socks under corduroys were exhibited here, as well as a dogtooth pair in dirty brown and gentle pink. Ribbed, salmon socks followed, and grey suit trousers were accompanied by refreshing cornflower blue socks.
B STORE This British brand were working what appeared to be hiking style socks, thick, chunky and of a dark beige with a tomato red skinny jean. Otherwise the socks were ribbed navy blue, with a turned up checked chino and penny loafers. They also showcased woolly grey hefty socks on a bare leg with shorts, for a very outdoorsy vibe.
AGNES B An exceptionally masculine black ribbed sock, worn under rolled up trousers, or tucked into hareems was observed here, for a dash of Parisian flair.
Choose your colour and pattern now.
Top Five Socks
Put a sock in it, with a pair from one of these respectable brands 1. Pantherella www.johnlewis.com Renowned since 1937, there is no compromise when it comes to comfort, quality and design. Each season new on trend hues are introduced and the selection varies from plain to occasion. If you take pleasure from the small things in life, grab yourself a pair of these socks in superfine Merino wool- pure luxury.
2. Tabio
3. Paul Smith
Produces a range of high quality socks in endless designs. The socks on the Carolyn Massey runway were in fact her collaboration with Tabio; names are being taken for the waiting list now.
Provides a classic everyday sock as well as high quality fun socks, which come in a range of light-hearted patterns.
www.tabio.com/uk
www.paulsmith.co.uk
4. Ayame www.oki-ni.com
A Japanese unisex brand, that comes in one size only. The designs are bold, colourful and on occasion intricate.
5. Happy socks www.happysocks.com
With an endless selection of patterns and colours, these really do put a smile on your face.
INTERVIEW 1
FASHION EAST WAS LAUNCHED IN 2000 AND IS A NON-PROFIT ORGANISATION THAT SELECTS AND SUBSEQUENTLY STRIVES TO ASSIST IN FACILITATING EMERGING YOUNG FASHION DESIGNERS AT LONDON FASHION WEEK. INITIALLY, OFF-SCHEDULE, THE SCHEME EVENTUALLY CONSOLIDATED ITS SUCCESS ESTABLISHING SHOWS ON THE OFFICIAL TIMETABLE. PRIMARILY FOCUSING ON WOMENSWEAR, THE VENTURE EXPANDED IN 2005 WITH THE ADDITION OF MENSWEAR. ON THE FINAL DAY OF AUTUMN/WINTER 2010 FASHION WEEK SHOWS, THERE WAS A MENSWEAR DAY COURTESY OF LULU KENNEDY AND ALL AT FASHION EAST. CONSEQUENTLY, DUKE MAGAZINE HAS SOUGHT OUR TOP PICK OF FANTASTICALLY TALENTED DESIGNERS, WHO WERE FEATURED IN THE EVENT, TO SHARE WITH YOU OUR CHERISHED READER.
MATTHEW MILLER H
aving recently embarked on his second collection at London Fashion Week, aptly named 0.02, Matthew Miller is endeavouring to capture the imagination of his audience with masculine tailoring and a thought provoking concepts behind his work. He graduated from the Royal Collage of Art, prestigiously deemed ‘one of the top 20 graduates of 2009’ by Vogue magazine. We can see why… DUKE: Do you have a muse in mind when designing? MATTHEW: I don’t have a specific muse. I think I’m much more inspired by words, phrases and sentences that I consume from the people I choose to speak to or the material I choose to read. Once I find an inspiring word, phrase, sentence, paragraph, I then use my imagination and research techniques to build characters and scenarios, then from this imaginative thought process, come the designs. DUKE: Who is your favourite designer at the moment? MATTHEW: I don’t have a specific favourite designer, but I do have favourite collections. This year, so far my favourite two Autumn/Winter collections have to be, for women’s wear Sonia Rykiel and Dries Van Noten on the menswear front. Rykiel’s presentation was incredibly beautiful and full of humour; it truly brought a smile to my face. DUKE: If you were to give your buyer one style tip what would it be? MATTHEW: Be inspired by everything from the nineties. Bjork’s hair, Helmut Lang, Pam Anderson, The Face, Nirvana, Tank Girl, push pops, Cast, Vexed Generation, the Internet, the Brat Pack, Bananas in Pyjamas. I could go on. DUKE: We imagine that you are working on your next collection right now, what is inspiring you? MATTHEW: The modern day gentleman and the
process of becoming such a thing. Do gentleman exist? Are the gentleman of today, forgeries copies and reissues? Can the modern day gentleman be created through design heritage and processes? I’m reading The Secret History by Donna Tartt and I’m looking into the mechanisation of design through software. And of course, the nineties. DUKE: What is your must have item this season? MATTHEW: My must have item has to be pair of coloured brogues. More specifically a pair of Florsheim by Duckie Brown Spring 2010. DUKE: What has been your proudest career moment to date? MATTHEW: My first presentation at London Fashion Week, in retrospect was amazing. At the time everything seemed like a blur as I was so exhausted from producing the collection, but the feedback has been amazing and it was well worth all the pain that was involved. DUKE: If you could be anywhere now, where would you be? MATTHEW: I would most definitely be on a great adventure, somewhere really obscure like the Galápagos Islands in a floating caravan, with a certain someone. DUKE: Finally Matthew, who is currently your favourite person? MATTHEW: My friend and housemate Rachael Barratt is doing a lot of work for the Haus of Gaga at the moment so I’m seeing quite a lot of the Gaga recently, and I have to admit I have quite a crush on her.
“Be inspired by everything from the nineties. Bjork’s hair, Helmut Lang...”
INTERVIEW 2
SIBLING T
he label consists of a trio of East Londoners Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery. Collectively, they are transforming menswear in its entirety. Their Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, Collection 4, redefines knitwear. Shocking pinks and slime greens, Breton stripes, pixelated images, leopard print and sequins are all present. Frankensteins, thunder bolts and skulls are scribbled over scarves and across jumpers. The collection is defined by the luxurious materials, bold graphic designs, and a fearless-ness to be different; their male twin set proves case and point. They have teamed up with This Is Real Art and elected to exhibit their horror themed collection via video presentation. DUKE: Where did your passion for knitwear come from? SIBLING: All three of us have always been obsessed with knitwear throughout our lives. It’s funny when we are interviewed about our childhood or teenage wardrobes because 99% of the time the things we are most fond of have been knitted. That may make us sound weird! Perhaps it’s in our DNA? DUKE: How would you describe you wearer in three words? SIBLING: Male, confident, GSOH. DUKE: What inspires you to design? SIBLING: We look at youth tribes, music, art, and our own past wardrobes… all the usual stuff. DUKE: What has been your favourite fashion moment so far in your career? SIBLING: Launching the collection with the perverse view of it not selling, just to ‘see how it goes’ and more recently making the Knit Monster. A full head to toe showpiece, which is getting more publicity than Jordan. DUKE: Did you enjoy being part of Fashion East this season? SIBLING: Very much so. Lulu Kennedy and the Fashion East team have been incredibly supportive to us right from the start. This season it really felt like a proper day to, the turn out was fantastic and, we think. That the quality of design and make from every designer showing has vastly improved.
DUKE: What epitomises fashion in your eyes? SIBLING: Sibling isn’t really about fashion in that sense. We want to produce garments that will age with you. It’s not anti-fashion it’s just that fashion seems so throw away. DUKE: How do the three of you manage to work as a team so effectively? SIBLING: Never take it personally! At the beginning of a collection Joe has ideas, Sid says no, Cozette says yes, Sid then says yes about something Cozette doesn’t like and all three of us then have more ideas… all of which we hate… or love. There are no properly defined titles for any of us: our characters are very similar in that ‘if it needs doing, do it’ way. DUKE: What item of clothing do you think no man should be without? SIBLING: A Sibling cardigan. DUKE: What is your biggest fashion faux pas? SIBLING: Joe: A pink fun fur coat with Hayzee Fantayzee dread locks. The hair would have been okay... but with the coat? Fortunately, this was in the 80’s. Cozette: A shapeless tomato red jersey soldier outfit with gold buttons and navy piping. I would have been around four and it didn’t fit in with my Biba kids fashion esthetic. There are photos of me feeding the ducks in Regents Park looking like a very glum mini Chelsea Pensioner. Sid: Has to be when I was about sixteen and thought I was a seamstress extraordinaire on my new sewing machine purchased by my super supportive dad. I thought I looked the bees knees in a home made over sized cotton pirate shirt, which was laced up front, had long cuffs and endless buttons. I paired it with home made jeans patched together from five old pairs in every shade of indigo, and to top the look off I had my mum braid my entire head of strawberry blond shoulder length hair, think Bo Derek. I seem to vaguely remember over egging the pudding with a tres hippy dragonfly earring, note single earring, and purple Doc Martin boots, amazing. DUKE: What is your pet hate? SIBLING: Clothing moths!!
“We want to produce garments that will age with you.”
RUNWAY
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
BAND OF OUTSIDERS TR ANSPORT US BACK TO THE SEVENTIES WITH THEIR WOODY ALLEN INSPIRED, GEEK CHIC PRESENTATION. BACKGROUND WHO: Band of Outsiders is comprised of Designer Scott Sternberg and his team, Stylist Tina Chai and Set Designer Jared Lawton. FOUNDED: January 2004 KNOWN FOR: Rebel preppyness, edgy basics, superb tailoring, innovation and exuberance. FACT: The label is named after the renowned film Bande Ă part by Jean-Luc Godard.
RUNWAY
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010 WHERE:
Milk Studios, Meatpacking District, during New York Fashion Week (Autumn/ Winter 2010/11). FORMAT:
Static presentation of looks. Sternberg used to be a filmmaker, which is evident from his theatrical micro film sets every season. INFLUENCES:
The late 1970’s and 1980’s, Woody Allen in the premature stages of his fame and novelist Joan Didion who investigates the topic of individualism. Reputable ski wear brands such as REI also inspired the label. CLOTHES:
There were dashes of tartan, cashmere and shearling, chunky jumpers, fawn checked chinos, shirts galore with skinny royal blue stripes and baby blue shirts with pintucked bibs. Thick knitted tweedy jogging bottoms dominated and sunflower yellow trousers with reinforced quilted knee patches brightened things up. The suits were velvet, corduroy, navy with polished gold buttons; a slim silhouette all finished off elegantly with a bow tie. The label provided a variety of coats; the chic duffel, a gilet, toggle coat and practical multi pocketed waterproof jacket meant for skiing and other ice indulged sports. The colour palette revolved around beige, slate grey, navy and caramel, with the odd jolt of yellow and sea green. SHOES:
Band of Outsiders collaborated with leading nautical footwear company Sperry Top-Sider to create a range of fantastically bold shoes to compliment the collection. This consisted of two-tone corduroy penny loafers, striking saddle shoes, oxford shoes and Chukka style boots. There was also a pair of outlandish fur shoes- fur incorporated into footwear, no thanks. ACCESSORIES:
Seventies style oversized glasses with a tinted lens, as well as white aviators, knitted fingerless gloves in navy, slate grey and toffee, and knitted two-tone caps. BACKDROP:
Numerous pieces of furniture including worn white chairs, typewriters, walkie-talkies, incessant suitcases and cabinets all amidst a screen of foliage. SOUNDTRACK:
Pink Floyd’s sixth album The Dark Side of the Moon rippled from the portable radio smothered in Swarovski crystals on the edge of the set. ATTENDEES:
Kirsten Dunst and Jason Schwartzman mingled with Anna Wintour, blogger, Bryan Boy and other fashion journalists and bloggers. Described in three words: Geeky, gentlemanly, quirky. FAVOURITE LOOK: DUKE’s Favourite look was a grey dinner jacket covered in a skinny white check, paired with fawn chinos, epitomising geek chic. The saddle shoes and deep navy bow tie finished the look off perfectly. /10: 8/10, the tailoring was tantalizing and the collection was innovative and fresh. DUKE loves the vibe of a revolting socialite and the fact that the label’s philosophy is one of over dressing, makes the label outstanding from other menswear lines at the moment. Seeing traditional staples receiving an overhaul is magical, however we are not a fan of the hats or that vivid yellow, yuck.
BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER In modern day society, a man’s grooming regime, is just as valid as a women’s. Soft, smooth and supple skin is a necessity. Being stylish and well groomed on the outside is fantastic, but if you take those well tailored garments off, and underneath is a mass of crusty dry, flaky skin then it really doesn’t matter what you were wearing in the first place. Embrace your metro sexuality today with DUKE’s essential skincare tips.
DUKE KNOWS THEY ARE OBVIOUS BUT SOMETIMES IT HELPS TO BE REMINDED OF THE BASIC RULES WHEN IT COMES TO LOOKING AFTER YOUR SKIN.
MAINTAIN A FACIAL SKINCARE REGIME AND STICK TO IT These three central rules are an unbeatable combination. It all begins at cleansing where excess oil and dirt needs to be eradiated at least once a day. Secondly comes a gentle exfoliation, which really gets down and cleanses your pores. An effective scrub will eradicate dullness and build-up. It also has the additional bonus of softening hair follicles resulting in a closer shave, which allows the skin to soak up moisturisers. Finally, moisturise to stop dryness and keep skin firm. A weightless moisturiser with SPF provides great defence from the atmosphere and ultimately help in the fight against longterm damage in regards to skins of ageing. Using a bar of soap on your face is not a good idea. It is too harsh and strips your skins of its natural oils, completely drying it out so make sure you stay clear. The simplest way to soothe away your skin woes is to sustain a regime. It is also important to be aware of your skin type, this way you can get the products designed to address specific issues, oily skin for example.
The three step is a brilliant unisex regime that has been devised by dermatologists at Clinique and covers the basics of skin care. There are different formulas depending on skin type, ranging from dry, combination or oily, to guarantee that your individual needs are dealt with appropriately.
DUKE RECOMMENDS: Clinique Three Step www.clinique.co.uk
Liquid Facial Soap 100ml £13.00 (Step One) This rids skin of day-to-day grime and cleanses it in preparation it for the next phase. Clarifying Lotion Mild 200ml £14.00 (Step Two) This step focuses on the exfoliation of the skin, which encourages its renewal helping to keep it smooth, soft and blemish free. Dramatically Different Moisturising Lotion 50ml £15.00 (Step Three) Hydrates skin allowing it to retain a moisture balance.
TAKE YOUR VITAMINS This is imperative in keeping your skin gleaming and is a great tip for those days when you don’t quite make it to five fruit and veg a day.
PROTECT YOUR LIPS This is an easy area to overlook but it is essential to protect. The skin here is incredibly delicate and notorious to dryness and cracking if not looked after properly. This is easy to avoid, all that needs to be done is to apply a good lip balm as needed. This lip conditioner contains Vitamin E to prevent dryness and honey to keep them soft. It defends lips from all number of harsh environmental factors such as strong sunlight and pollution. DUKE RECOMMENDS: Molton Brown Protecting Vitamin Lipsaver 15ml £10.00 www.moltonbrown.co.uk
STAY HYDRATED It is recommended that you should drink at least 1.5 litres of water a day. This helps to clear the toxins and impurities out of your body, leaving you with a glowing complexion.
A cost effective way of maintaining your health, in just one tablet. A healthy inside, means a healthy outside, meaning your skin will reap the benefits. DUKE RECOMMENDS:
Holland & Barrett Radiance Multi Vitamins & Minerals One a Day (60 capsules) £2.99 www.hollandandbarrett. com
ALWAYS USE A SHAVING CREAMShaving is a difficult one and tends to vary from person to person. If you know what works for you already, stick to it, however if shaving for you is a bit of a dilemma, listen up. Splash some warm water on your face, which will open up your pores and make the whole process easier. Use a good shaving cream over a foam, which will tend to dry your skin out. Make sure you always use a sharp razor and using short strokes, shave with the grain, to avoid irritation. When you are finished apply a moisturiser to keep your skin supple.
DUKE RECOMMENDS:
An excellent product that uses calming oils including lavender and chamomile to help relieve skin and prevent redness, rashes and razor burn. The menthol settles the skin after shaving.
Evian has been making it’s way through the French Alps for fifteen long years before it makes it’s way to you, meaning it is as pure as can be. Known for its lightness, it will not disappoint.
Space NK Men Blue Shave Cream 100ml £12.00
DUKE RECOMMENDS: Evian 2L £0.78 www.evian.com
www.spacenk.co.uk INVEST IN A PRODUCT THAT TARGETS THE EYES TO HELP HIDE YOUR MISDEMEANOURS If you didn’t get a full nights sleep because you were out and about, when you were perhaps meant to be getting a quiet night, it will quite literally be written all over your face. Eyes are a tell tale sign, dark circles or puffiness reveal lack of sleep as well as a bad diet. Eye creams, gels or serums help to tone down these indications.
DUKE RECOMMENDS: L’Oreal Men Expert Hydra Energetic Ice Cool eye roll 10ml £10.99 www.boots.com
PAY ATTENTION TO THE HANDS The first thing you do when you meet someone is shake his or her hand. The strength of the shake is as we know, vital, but the condition of the skin, is just as important. It is imperative to keep your hands clean as well as your nails short and in good condition as your hands are seen everyday.
This clever device refreshes eyes in the morning reviving them to their former glory and removing any traces of sleepless nights. DUKE RECOMMENDS: Lab Series for Men Active Hand Cream 75ml £13.00 www.mankind.co.uk
This strong performance hand cream brings skin back to life. It contains electrolytes which keep skin moisturised, along with the help of aloe to condition skin. The cream also promotes the growth of new cells, which keep the skin looking revitalised.
GROOMING MYTHS DISPELLED There are a lot of things out there that you assume, simply because you have never been told otherwise. There are several grooming or skincare myths that DUKE needs to amend.
MYTH: SHAVING ENCOURAGES HAIR TO COME BACK THICKER Not true, as hair grows they become thinner. Regardless of what you do, shaving will not change the diameter of your hair, it all comes down to each individuals genes.
MYTH: OILY SKIN DOESN’T NEED TO BE MOISTURISED People seem to think that moisturising will make the situation worse if you have oily skin, which is false. A moisturiser should be used that is targeted at the fore mentioned skin type, and used as part of a skin regime. Oil and moisture are two diverse things. Oily skin may infact lack moisture and therefore hydration is needed.
MYTH: SKIN REGIMES STOP BEING EFFECTIVE AFTER A CERTAIN DEGREE OF TIME If the exact same products are being used, they will still be providing the same services. However your skin does change over time and it may have different needs and be affected by the seasons so it is a good idea to vary your routine.
Top Five Fragrances
Picking a fragrance is very important; just be cautious as every fragrance smells differently on each individual.
1. Dior Fahrenheit www.dior.com Introduced in 1988, there is a reason this refreshing, masculine and slightly woody mix of honeysuckle and sandalwood with a top note of mandarin, has lasted so long.
2. Paco Rabanne Black XS www.pacorabanne.com
3.Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male
A sensuous yet cool smell combining the sweetness of cinnamon with black amber and patchouli.
www.jeanpaulgaultier.com
The first make fragrance by Gaultier, this is a popular choice due to the freshness of peppermint with touches of orange blossom.
4. Chanel Allure
5. Hugo Boss
Known for it’s great staying power, this stylish scent provides a mixture of woody and spicy notes.
www.hugo.com
www.chanel.com
HUGO Energise A dynamic and light scent that has unusual note including pink pepper, coriander and jacaranda wood. With an endless selection of patterns and colours, these really do put a smile on your face.
YOUNG MAN’S STYLE GUIDE AND REFERENCE TOOL
DUKE MAGAZINE IS ONLINE VISIT THE BLOG WWW.DUKE-MAGAZINE.BLOGSPOT.COM
INTERVIEW 3
Harris Elliot
INTERVIEW 3
HARRIS ELLIOT IS A RENOWNED MUSIC AND FASHION STYLIST TO STARS INCLUDING DJ MARK RONSON AND KELLY ROWLAND, AS WELL AS BRANDS INCLUDING FRENCH CONNECTION AND NIKE. ELLIOT IS ALSO THE DESIGNER RESPONSIBLE FOR THE LAVISH LUGGAGE AND BRAND, H BY HARRIS, WHICH TOOK PART IN THE MENSWEAR DAY AT LONDON FASHION WEEK AUTUMN/WINTER 2010 IN COLLABORATION WITH LULU KENNEDY AT FASHION EAST.
D
own-to-Earth, hard working, intelligent and oozing cool, Harris Elliot finally comes face to face with DUKE magazine, after three, maybe four re-scheduled meetings; this talented man is certainly in demand and DUKE can undoubtedly see why. In the West end of London, we meet at his small almost den-like basement studio, just off a hectic Shaftsbury Avenue.
“If I could work with anybody, it would probably be Thomas Heatherwick.”
In 2007 Elliot created a bag intended to carry his laptop around, which gained rapturous interest, and led to the founding of his line. With his label gaining momentum, does this mean the end of styling for the lovely Harris? Definitely not, he explains to DUKE that he is still styling and that the progression into design is more of a transformation, a development even: ‘With my work, the two feed into one another, styling informs some of the decisions I make with luggage, and the luggage reminds people what I do as a stylist. It works quite well for me.’ The H by Harris collection, consists of two lines, the ‘Q’ range of quilted designs and then the ‘SH’ collection made from nubuck leather. The designs evolve from the laptop case Elliot created to fill the niche in the market for a chic yet versatile one. From this original concept, the line developed into weekend bags, totes, rucksacks and the superbly functional ‘H’ jacket, which is a jacket that has a rucksack attached to the back of it. The colour palette of the collections is a minimal electric blue, blood red, black and white. Elliot explained that the design process is a varied one, as ‘some things happen quite instantly, as in I met somebody two, three days ago, who is a customer of mine and is interested in having a bespoke bag. Just from that conversation, I saw him on Friday, sat with my technical person on Saturday, and the sketches have gone to the factory a couple of days later, so that bag could be
ready in a week. That’s probably quite immediate.’ On the other hand sometimes it is right time and right place as ‘some ideas, I’ve had for a few years, and you only start putting them out as and when you feel they are ready to fit into a collection you are working on.’ Generally though, and with his label at the moment, Elliot discloses that the creation of a bag is normally ‘probably about a month, maybe month and a half. That’s for an idea, technical pattern, and then first prototype.’ When it comes to inspiration, Harris cites anything from ‘a film, a piece of architecture, the shape of a building or a detail in an entrance hall.’ The work of other designers doesn’t particularly inform his work, it’s more about shape and form. Having recently joined forces with b Store on a successful collaboration for their Autumn/ Winter 2009 show Hard Times at London Fashion Week, Elliot declares his ultimate collaboration to be two incredible talents. ‘If I could work with anybody, it would probably be Thomas Heatherwick, who’s not a fashion design. He designs interior and architecture and is all about form. Maybe a collaboration that would inspire me more would be somebody like that. Either that or an artist called Jean Chritou, who does a lot of draping of buildings, and canyons, parks. I’d like to collaborate with somebody on a much bigger scale, rather than another fashion designer. That’s not saying I wouldn’t though, because I am in talks with various fashion designers.’ His interest in form isn’t surprising considering Elliot is an Interior Architecture and Design graduate. His interest in shape is obvious from the fine construction and attention to detail that can be seen in his line. He is of the belief that currently the only bags available are shrouded in all number of excessive embellishments which take away from it’s intended purpose. Elliot thinks form and function should take priority; clean lines and minimalism are key.
INTERVIEW 3
Elliot is attentive when it comes to styling his customer, which is probably why he is so skilled at it. He believes it is crucial to ‘listen to what the person is into. It is about trying to understand and get inside somebody’s head, in terms of where they are at, and if you have a good measure of where they are at, it’s quite easy. I find it quite intuitive to then pick and find good things for that person.’ When it comes to style, Elliot has certainly got bags of that. Naming a pair of Marni trousers the last thing he purchased ‘Marni as opposed to Armani’ he cheekily quips, there is no doubt that the guy has taste. When we meet he displays the great personal style one would expect. Wearing a timeless jeans and a t-shirt combination with a thin-flecked cardigan and bold Nike trainers, he has smart casual down. Describing his style Elliot affirms it as ‘kind of relaxed yet refined at the same time. I like tailoring, but at the same time, I’m not a person, who would be able to dress rigorously suited and booted everyday. There would always be something else, a little relaxed. I would put something, slightly to brighten it up, whether it is trainers on the bottom of a smart pair of trousers or a pair of braces on a pair of jeans. Just something quite relaxed about the refinement.’ Despite his eye for style and impeccable taste, Elliot has no plans to launch a clothing range just yet. Gracious to a tee when describing his career, Elliot explains ‘all of it has been great. In terms of the label, each week something new happens and I find new people are really into the collections I create.’ He details that it doesn’t matter who wears the collection; the more varied the better. ‘Whether it is just Joe Blogs getting in touch who likes your collection, for me that is really inspiring, as you are connecting with someone, as opposed to the normal fashion route.’ A designer who is truly passionate about the items he produces maintains ‘for me, what is exciting is everything from getting an email from somebody who I have never met before, to having some of the stockists I have.’ The collections stockists include a highly regarded Dover Street Market, Browns and Oki-ni.com, quite a clientele. His personal preference in terms of style is French actor Vincent Cassel who ‘effortlessly exudes cool.’ Extending his praise of Cassel he clarifies ‘it’s not just the way that he dresses, for me, style is a lot more than that, it’s more of an attitude thing.’ DUKE could not agree more, style is not something that can be learnt, you’ve either got it, or you haven’t and it is definitely something Harris Elliot is in possession of.
“Kind of relaxed yet refined at the same time.”
LONDON’S CALLING Escape to the bright lights of the city
A
t London Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter 2010, layering was a vast trend splattered all over the runway at Carolyn Massey, Christopher Shannon and J.W. Anderson. As the bitter coldness approaches bulk up your look with multiple t-shirts, jumpers, cardigans and scarves in order to stay warm.
OPINION
A Mumble and a Grumble It’s hard not to sweat the small stuff, after all a train seat is meant for sitting, not to be used as storage space We have so much going on what with the hustle and bustle of modern day life, it’s tough to not let the smallest thing get under your skin. It’s always the tiniest most insignificant actions, that don’t have a massive impact on our everyday life, that exasperate us the most. It’s all about aggravating behaviour that other people are oblivious to. If you were to divulge to them your annoyance, they would immediately scoff at your pernickety ways. That said, it is truly the trivialities of life that get to us the most. DUKE magazine doesn’t want to come across as pedantic, or hostile, but just how difficult is it to hold your personal belongings on your lap? For people on the way to the airport or with over-sized cases, there are those massive racks at the entrance to a train carriage, or overhead storage for smaller items. If it’s just shopping you have, keep it with you for your short train journey home. Problem solved. Shopping or luggage on the seat next to you when a train is busy and others are standing is in DUKE’s eyes a colossal faux pas. It is selfish, discourteous, egotistical and massively inhospitable. Surely if you have two seats to yourself and can see that others are in need of one, you would move your shopping bags, put them on your lap, down by your feet or under the seat, or just anywhere out of the way of others. It’s just common sense, courteous and above all polite. These pig headed people obviously did not get the memo about the one seat per person rule. It’s all about using your head. Obviously, the five o’clock trains leaving from Waterloo on your average Friday afternoon, or pretty much any afternoon, is going to be crammed with people leaving their weekly jobs, rushing home to begin their weekend. Therefore unless you are one of these people, stay away those couple of meagre hours. If you are in possession of lots of bags after a long days shop, why not stay out for dinner? Why rush back? If you’ve got enough cash to splurge on bags of shopping, then you have enough money to get a taxi home. If the train is quiet, fine, do as you please, the issue is when unnecessary standing occurs. The thing is, in this day and age, you have to respect and act kindly towards other members of our society. It just frustrates DUKE incredibly to see people tiredly standing, when there are six spare seats in a carriage occupied by bags, laptops even scarves. Have a little respect. DUKE suggests that if you find yourself in need of a seat in this situation from now onwards, you politely but assertively request the removal of shopping bags and perch your derrière on the seat it deserves to reside on.
DUKE has discovered a selection of rucksacks, totes and holdalls that are small and nifty with bags of space.
Top Five Bags
That use space sensibly. 1. Christopher Shannon for Eastpak www.johnlewis.com An extremely functional and practical collection of colourful rucksacks, with plenty of useful compartments.
2. Marc by Marc Jacobs www.my-wardrobe.com The perfect bags when it comes to discreet and condensed space. Double pockets, front, back and middle compartments, efficiency in an accessory.
3. Topman www.topman.com
A reasonably priced selection of a range of holdalls, satchels and rucksacks
4. Bill Amberg www.billamberg.com
Durable leather messenger bags and totes with a masculine edge and inner pockets to secure valuables.
5. Vivienne Westwood
www.viviennewestwoodonline.co.uk
A timeless and stylish assortment of bags with multiple pockets.
TRAVEL
GOING DUTCH? A
msterdam offers an exciting adventure, so go and enjoy a few starry nights in this historically brimming city The notorious Amsterdam, located in the Netherlands, is famed for many things but widely known for being a liberal city predominantly due to the squats, legalisation of cannabis and it’s red light district. There is, however, so much more to this picturesque city, than what first meets the eye. There is a very tolerant atmosphere in the city and it is a melting pot of different cultures and ethnicities. It is home to an endless array of museums,
canals and windmills and it is predicted that the number of inhabitants is equivalent to the number of bikes. Both are around the 700,000 mark, with the population likely to be ever so slightly more. The city bodes a wonderfully artistic nature, as it was once the home of Vincent van Gogh. As the pound is now pretty much equivalent to the euro, decisions and purchases need to be well thought out, and pennies spent wisely when visiting Amsterdam. Here at DUKE we have compiled our top six wallet friendly yet appealing places to check out, when in this celebrated city
TRAVEL
CENTRALE BIBLIOTEEK OOSTERDOKSKADE 143 AMSTERDAM, 1011 DL WWW.OBA.NL
O
ur first stop is the amazing Centrale Biblioteek, which is the largest public library in Europe. This library is literally out-of-this-world incredible. As you enter the seven storey building the foyer contains a beautiful piano that the public are permitted to play as they wish meaning music flows around this open plan, chiefly white library, setting the tone. There is so much on offer here with an endless selection of Macs providing free wireless Internet as well as plenty of space to get on with your own thing, whatever that may be. It is quite literally crammed with magazines and newspapers with thousands stacked over a floor of
the library, covering a huge range of topics. There is additionally an equally huge variety of DVDs you can borrow, or even watch at the library in one of the little freestanding cabins. As if this wasn’t the best library in the world already, situated on the top floor there is a luxurious cafÊ with a patio area boasting the most amazing views of canals and architecture across Amsterdam. Not many people seem to know about this, so it definitely a well-hidden secret.
TRAVEL
WATERLOOPLEIN FLEA MARKET WATERLOOPLEIN 1011 NV AMSTERDAM
T
his flea market is a massive outdoor bazaar as well as the oldest and most interesting of one of Amsterdam’s countless markets. In 1893 a Jewish market took place in the same spot but this unfortunately ended in 1941 due to the persecution of the Jews. After the Second World War the bazaar was reborn and now stands as an extensive three hundred stall affair, offering pretty much anything you could wish for. Second hand and vintage clothing is sold, pieces of art, books and DVD’s, objects of African descent, jewellery, electronics and generally antiques and collectibles. It is full of unusual and moderately
priced goods, meaning you can take away Dutch souvenirs with a difference. There is also an eclectic mix of people scouring the market so it makes for an interesting opportunity of people watching and a relaxed way to spend an afternoon. It is open Monday to Saturday, from 9am to 5.30pm and only a fifteen-minute walk East from Dam Square. If you are fond of flea markets, love a good rummage and a pro at bartering; the Waterlooplein market is not one to be overlooked.
GALERIE WOUTER VAN LEEUWEN HAZENSTRAAT 27 1016 SM AMSTERDAM
WWW.GALERIES.NL/WVL
EPISODE WATERLOOPLEIN 1 1011 NV AMSTERDAM WWW.EPISODE.EU
BAGELS AND BEANS GIERSTRAAT 49 HAARLEM 2011 WWW.BAGELSBEANS.NL
T
his minimal gallery focuses on photography and has managed to represent some serious contenders such as Ellen von Unwerth, Frank Horvat and Melvin Sokolsky. The gallery focuses on predominantly black and white images and quite often features the originals of the famous images. It is open Thursday to Saturday from early afternoon until 6pm.
A
msterdam is jammed full of vintage shops where you can get hold of things at bargain prices, but in DUKE’s eyes none so good as Episode, which opened in 1999. Every corner is crammed full of 70’s and 80’s footwear, clothing and accessories, with the odd piece from earlier eras of the 50’s and 60’s. There is literally any item you desire with Episode catering for both women and men and ranging from great basics to show-stopping pieces. In particular there is a wide selection of men’s accessories, especially ties, scarves, belts, hats and braces. This vintage shoppers gem is quite small, but every wall, basket and rail is absolutely heaving with potential purchases, making it quite an inspirational Mecca. This fashion lover’s paradise is open everyday except for Sunday’s and like most places from 10am until 6pm.
M
ade to order bagels, check. Freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juice, check. Most importantly steaming hot coffees, check. Lucky for you, there is a Bagel and Beans down practically every street of Amsterdam. If you are as much of a bagel enthusiast as DUKE magazine is, then a stop here is essential. With different types of bagels ranging from spinach and olive to sesame, endless variations of cream cheese and then additional toppings such as goats cheese, omelette, bacon, where do you start? Set in cosy corners of Amsterdam, with views of the canals, offering great service and more than reasonable prices, you will get hooked and find yourself coming back here more than just the once! DUKE recommends the Haarlem branch as it has a great atmosphere and serene views, however with forty branches in Amsterdam alone, you will have no trouble stumbling upon one.
TRAVEL
JORDAAN 1015 AMSTERDAM
T
his area is an extension of Amsterdam and is known for it’s impeccable style and art culture: Rembrandt settled here in 1639, setting the tone. It was originally created as a borough for the poor, however today it is enjoyed by artists, students and young professionals. Packed full of boutiques, cafes, exquisite wine bars, low-key and make shift art galleries, museums and encased by some of the most beautiful canals known, a trip s crucial. The tiny art galleries are easy to miss, just make sure you scour the nearby streets for obscure and unusual delights such as W-136, which has sketches and paintings covering every surface. There is also a great American Apparel found at Westerstraat 59-61, if you want to see what a Dutch branch of the store has to offer. Ultimately, Jordaan cannot be missed, a brilliant escape from the buzz of the city on a clear day.
TRAVEL
Top Five Places to Stay
Unpack your bags and get stuck in. 1. The Carlton Square Hotel
2. Camping VliegenBos
3. Houseboat
Carlton Square, Baan 7
Meeuwenlaan 138
www.houseboathotel.nl
2012 DB Haarlem
1022 Amsterdam
http://www.carlton.nl/square/
www.vliegenbos.com
Two stops by train from the centre of Amsterdam this hotel is located in the centre of the charming Haarlem. You can get some cheap deals on-line when booking flight simultaneously. Great size rooms with brilliant service.
If you want to escape the city for a reasonable price, you should give this campsite a try. A mere ten minutes from the centre of Amsterdam and in the middle of a sixty-two acre wood surrounded by natural beauty, you get to see a side to Amsterdam that few get the pleasure of.
If there is a group of you, a novel idea would be to rent a houseboat on one of the canals of Amsterdam. It’s a great opportunity to experience something a bit out of the ordinary and this site offers a wide range of different location, sizes and styles depending on your budget. Ideal for a memorable experience.
4. Lucky Lake Caravan Hostel
5. Heart of Amsterdam Hostel
Vinkenkade 75
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 120,
Vinkeveen, Amsterdam
Amsterdam, 1012DT
www.lucky.greenwave.nl
www.heart-hostel.nl
When you first hear the phrase caravan hostel, you certainly don’t think of luxury but these caravans are cosy, well priced and only a shuttle bus away from central Amsterdam. If you want to do something a little outdoorsy and scenic, this is for you. To get the best deal book ahead and capitalise with a nights stay for free. A complementary breakfast is included and one of the caravans has quirkily been transformed into a cinema.
When it comes to hostels DUKE can suggest a lively, clean hostel located in the bustling centre, mere moments from Central Station. The Heart of Amsterdam is positioned across from the main shopping street so you are surrounded by the main attractions with the additional bonus of city tax being excluded. With this hostel it is all about character with all of the rooms encompassing a different Hollywood theme.
STOCKISTS A
M
W W W.ACNEJEANS.COM
W W W.MARKSANDSPENCER.COM
ACNE MARKS AND SPENCER AGNES B MR HARE W W W.AGNESB.US
W W W.DOVERSTREETMARKET.COM
AYAME W W W.OKI-NI.COM
P
B
PAUL SMITH
W W W.BEYONDRETRO.COM
W W W.JOHNLEWIS.COM
W W W.PAULSMITH.CO.UK
BEYOND RETRO PANTHERELLA B STORE W W W.BSTORELONDON.COM
C
R
REISS W W W.REISS.CO.UK
CAROLYN MASSEY ROKIT W W W.CAROLYNMASSEY.COM W W W.ROKIT.CO.UK CHURCH’S RALPH LAUREN W W W.CHURCH-FOOTWEAR.COM
W W W.RALPHLAUREN.COM
COMME DES GARCONES W W W.DOVERSTREETMARKET.COM
T
E
W W W.TABIO.COM
W W W.HARRODS.COM
W W W.TOPMAN.COM
G
U
W W W.GIEVESANDHAWKES.COM
W W W.URBANOUTFITTERS.CO.UK
TABIO
ETRO TOPMAN
GIEVES AND HAWKES
URBAN OUTFITTERS
H
V
W W W.HAPPYSOCKS.COM
W W W.VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.COM
HAPPY SOCKS H&M W W.HM.COM
L
L’OREAL W W W.LOREAL.CO.UK
LOAKE W W W.LOAKE.CO.UK
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Z
ZARA
W W W.ZARA.COM