Knife & Fork by C-VILLE Weekly

BOOZE! A UVA prof makes genius gin & brandy

NUTS! The Nelson County chestnut revival

WINE! California dreamin’ in Crozet WINTER 2020

Taste is everything.

Winery dogs The fast and the furriest: canines among the vines PAGE 21

Comfort food recipes that’ll warm you up PAGE 9

LIGHTWELL SURVEY: “WEIRD” WINES THAT TASTE SUBLIME HOW TO MAKE THE BEST PORK ONE WOMAN FINDS HER INNER FOODIE IN BASQUE COUNTRY

FIRESIDE CHATS START HERE The Legendary Mill Room With completely reimagined accommodations, The Mill Room Restaurant is reborn as a highlight of Boar’s Head Resort and the go-to destination in Charlottesville. An ingredient-driven menu offers fine fare amidst all-new interiors that convey a sense of optimism and warmth while keeping guests returning time after time. Always elegant yet never pretentious, this is the perfect destination for any occasion, whether a special celebration or “just because.” Reserve your table: www.BoarsHeadResort/Dining or (434) 972-2230

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Wines worth celebrating. 4 Knife&Fork Winter

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The Dish

Features

Getting warmer

Perfect pairing

Five local chefs share recipes for soup, sides, and main courses. The dishes are as varied as their creators—including Duner’s Laura Fonner, The Alley Light’s Robin McDaniel, and Guajiros Miami Eatery’s Harvey and Danilo Mayorga—but all are designed to warm you up on a winter day. PAGE 9

Central Virginia’s winery dogs lead a charmed life, greeting tasting room visitors, chasing (and catching) critters, and riding shotgun with winemakers out in the vineyards. Photographer Zack Wajsgras captures the pups in action.

High spirits

PAGE 21

At his hilltop home in Albemarle County, UVA professor Robin Felder has spent five years perfecting his unique “varietal gin” (his trademark) and fruit brandies, using a 250-gallon solid copper still. PAGE 17

Chestnut dreams In one of the great local culinary comeback stories, the chestnut is experiencing a grassroots revival in Nelson County. Writer Erika Howsare wades into the orchards and unearths a sweet story.

•

Restaurant listings Hundreds of places to choose from. PAGE 52

PAGE 30

My favorite bite

Hog wild

Drink listings The glass is more than half full at these wineries, breweries, cideries, and distilleries. PAGE 62

MORGAN SALYER

Allison Evanow-Jones, founder of Square One Organic Spirits, on her Basque Country culinary awakening. PAGE 57

How do you keep a pig happy? Let it roam free and eat as much as it can forage. That’s the not-so-secret formula for Virginia’s boutique pork farmers, whose product is prized by the area’s best chefs.

Winery spotlight

PAGE 39

Crozet’s White Hall Vineyards exudes California style. PAGE 62

Offbeat but on point

The Last Bite

308 E. Main St. Charlottesville, VA 22902 (434) 817-2749 n c-ville.com c-ville.com/knife-fork

ZACK WAJSGRAS

On the cover: Photographer Zack Wajsgras captures Emma the Barbet, or French water dog, in a typically exhuberant moment at Woodstock’s Muse Vineyards, where she has the run of the show.

ZACK WAJSGRAS

Bonus recipe! Chef Della Bennett of Plenty puts a cheesy twist on classic baked acorn squash. PAGE 66

“We’re not just being weird,” Early Mountain Vineyard winemaker Ben Jordan says of his innovative side project, Lightwell Survey Wines. Likewise, we’re not judging. The stuff in the bottle is unusually good. PAGE 48

KNIFE & FORK, a supplement to C-VILLE Weekly, is distributed in Charlottesville, Albemarle County and the Shenandoah Valley. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Editor Laura Longhine. Knife & Fork Editor Joe Bargmann. Copy Editor Susan Sorensen. Creative Director Bill LeSueur. Graphic Designers Tracy Federico, Max March, Lorena Perez. Account Executives Lisa C. Hurdle, Gabby Kirk, Theressa Leak, Chris Till, Beth Wood. Production Coordinator Faith Gibson. Publisher Aimee Atteberry. Chief Financial Officer Debbie Miller. Marketing Manager Anna Harrison. A/R Specialist Nanci Winter. Circulation Manager Billy Dempsey. ©2019 C-VILLE Weekly.

Winter Knife&Fork 5

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The Dish TRENDS, TASTEMAKERS, AND FOODS WE LOVE

TOM MCGOVERN

Getting warmer Local chefs—from Duner’s to The Alley Light—share cozy recipes for soup, sides, and main courses guaranteed to comfort you on the chilliest of winter days Duner’s chicken, corn, and tortilla soup

Winter Knife&Fork 9

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The Dish

Chicken, corn, and tortilla soup (previous page) From Laura Fonner, executive chef, Duner’s You may be skeptical when a chef invokes a “secret” or “magic” ingredient, but Fonner swears by Lizano sauce, a Costa Rican condiment, in this recipe. “It’s spicy, sweet, and tangy—basically, magic in a bottle.” INGREDIENTS 3 cups roasted, boneless chicken thighs cut into 1/2 inch cubes. (You can also use cut-up rotisserie chicken!) 1 red bell pepper small, stem and seeds removed; diced 2 stalks celery, diced 1 yellow onion, diced 2 jalapeños, stems and seeds removed; diced 4 ears corn, cooked, kernels removed; cobs set aside for stock 2 large tomatoes, diced 1 bunch fresh cilantro; leaves chopped, stems discarded 2 cups Lizano sauce (available at specialty food stores like Foods of All Nations) 10 cups chicken stock 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 pack corn tortillas cut into strips (about 3 cups) Optional garnish: shaved white cheddar, minced scallions, chopped cilantro, crispy tortilla strips

TOM MCGOVERN

1 tbsp. chopped garlic

The Alley Light’s artichoke gratin

Artichoke gratin From Robin McDaniel, chef and owner, The Alley Light This simple, satisfying dish is traditional in the Provence region of southern France—and a favorite on the menu at The Alley Light, especially during cold spells. The light flavors of the artichoke and lemon balance with the richness of the bacon and Parmesan cheese.

INSTRUCTIONS In a large soup pot, sauté onions,

INGREDIENTS

Extra-virgin olive oil

bacon in Dutch oven (or other dish

garlic, peppers, celery, and corn

3 slices bacon, coarsely chopped

that can be transferred from stovetop

until tender. Season with salt and

5 pearl onions, quartered

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

pepper. Add tomatoes, chicken stock,

1 medium shallot, diced

Grated Parmesan cheese, for topping

and corn cobs. Bring to a boil, lower

Add onions, shallot, and garlic. Cook,

2-3 cloves of garlic, minced

heat, and simmer for 45 minutes.

4-6 fresh artichokes (frozen artichoke hearts may be substituted; Trader Joe’s are good)

INSTRUCTIONS

2-3 carrots, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces

artichokes, remove all outer leaves,

1 bay leaf and a few sprigs thyme, tied together with kitchen twine

scoop out the “hairy” part of the

Remove and discard corn cobs. Stir in heavy cream, chicken, cilantro, two cups Lizano sauce, and simmer 20 minutes longer. Add tortilla strips, stir, turn off heat, and cover pot. Let rest for 10 minutes. The flavors will come together and the tortillas will thicken the soup. Serve immediately. Serves six to 10

Juice of one lemon

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Warm stock in sauce pan. (If using fresh peel stems and cut off bottoms, hearts, cut lengthwise into quarters

½ cup white wine

or eighths, blanch or steam until

32 oz. unsalted chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

tender but firm, and then set aside to cool.) Over medium heat, cook

to oven) until rendered but not crispy. stirring frequently, until translucent. Add artichokes, carrots, and herbs. Drizzle with olive oil. Add lemon juice and wine. When carrots begin to soften, add stock, salt, and pepper. Reduce liquid until a few tablespoons remain. Top with grated Parmesan, and then bake for about 12 minutes or until warmed through. Serves six to eight

Winter Knife&Fork 11

The Dish

TOM MCGOVERN

1 tbsp. chopped garlic

The Alley Light’s artichoke gratin

INSTRUCTIONS In a large soup pot, sauté onions,

INGREDIENTS

Extra-virgin olive oil

bacon in Dutch oven (or other dish

garlic, peppers, celery, and corn

3 slices bacon, coarsely chopped

that can be transferred from stovetop

until tender. Season with salt and

5 pearl onions, quartered

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

pepper. Add tomatoes, chicken stock,

1 medium shallot, diced

Grated Parmesan cheese, for topping

and corn cobs. Bring to a boil, lower

Add onions, shallot, and garlic. Cook,

2-3 cloves of garlic, minced

heat, and simmer for 45 minutes.

4-6 fresh artichokes (frozen artichoke hearts may be substituted; Trader Joe’s are good)

INSTRUCTIONS

2-3 carrots, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces

artichokes, remove all outer leaves,

1 bay leaf and a few sprigs thyme, tied together with kitchen twine

scoop out the “hairy” part of the

Juice of one lemon

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Warm stock in sauce pan. (If using fresh peel stems and cut off bottoms, hearts, cut lengthwise into quarters

½ cup white wine

or eighths, blanch or steam until

32 oz. unsalted chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

tender but firm, and then set aside to cool.) Over medium heat, cook

Winter Knife&Fork 11

Bon matin.

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The Dish

Maicitos con pollo From Harvey and Danilo Mayorga, owners, Guajiros Miami Eatery The name of this dish translates simply to sweet corn with chicken. It’s a popular street food in Colombia. Here, the Mayorga brothers, whose Cuban-style restaurant is on 29 North, adapt the recipe for you to make at home. INGREDIENTS 1 cup boneless grilled breast, chopped 1 oz. each, extra-virgin olive oil and butter 1 cup sweet corn kernels ½ cup blended cheese, shredded 2 oz. milk or half and half Lay’s potato chips for topping Pink sauce: 1 cup ketchup 2 oz. lime juice

Monticello’s macaroni and cheese

1 oz. hot sauce Garlic mayo:

Monticello macaroni and cheese From Shelby Poulin, chef, Monticello Farm Table

fine mesh strainer to remove any

1 cup mayo 2 tbsp. garlic, finely diced Salt to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

salted water to boil. Cook noodles

Cilantro crema:

Grate all cheeses. Bring water to a

until al dente, strain, add immedi-

1 cup of sour cream

boil. Add sodium citrate. Gradually

ately to sauce, and stir.

1 oz. fresh lime juice

whisk in grated cheeses until

Serves 10 to 12

1/2 bunch of cilantro leaves, chopped, stems discarded

INSTRUCTIONS In three separate bowls, whisk together ingredients for each sauce. Heat oil and butter in a frying pan, add chicken, and cook over medium-high heat for three to five minutes. Add corn and heat through, about three minutes. Add milk and cheese and mix well with a wooden spoon until cheese is

3.5 cups water (for cheese sauce)

12 oz. traditional Gouda

3 lbs. dry macaroni noodles

Guajiros Miami Eatery’s maicitos con pollo

INGREDIENTS

12 oz. Cabot very sharp clothbound cheddar (often also sealed in wax)

melted and smooth. Pour through a

Salt to taste

Monticello Farm Table, formerly the Café at Monticello, uses highquality cheeses (including Parmesan, a favorite of Thomas Jefferson’s) to create a unique take on this iconic comfort food. Sodium citrate in the recipe is a natural emulsifier that replaces a cream-based sauce, making this dish a snap.

1.16 oz. or 33 g. sodium citrate, weighed

8 oz. Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese

lumps. Bring five-gallon pot of

melted and all ingredients incorporated. Serve the mixture in a TOM MCGOVERN

TOM MCGOVERN

1 cup mayonnaise

bowl, top with crushed Lay’s chips, and drizzle with sauces. Garnish with chopped cilantro if desired. Serves two

Winter Knife&Fork 13

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The Dish

TOM MCGOVERN

Tavola’s pappardelle alla ragu

Pappardelle alla ragu

Fresh pappardelle pasta ingredients (yields 8 ounces)

to lowest setting and put the dough

INSTRUCTIONS

through again. The sheet should be

Cut pork shoulder into one- to two-

6 egg yolks

thin. Fold the sheet over three or

inch inch chunks. Season with salt and

3/4 cup 00 semolina flour

four times for cutting, then slice by

pepper and brown in a large sauté pan

1/3 cup No.1 semolina flour

hand to inch-wide noodles. Unroll to

From Michael Keaveny, chef and co-owner, Tavola

over medium to high heat. Remove the

1/8 tsp. salt

separate and loosen before cooking.

pork from the pan, add two tablespoons

INSTRUCTIONS

Pork ragu ingredients

and garlic, and cook until vegetables are

Sift flour onto the work surface and

4 lbs. pork shoulder

soft. Pour the tomatoes from the can

make a well in the center. Add the egg

1 medium onion

into a bowl and crush by hand, removing

yolks into the well, then slowly incor-

1 large carrot

undesirable pieces. In the sauté pan,

porate them into the flour with a fork.

6 cloves garlic

add tomato paste, cook for two

Keep going until the dough is smooth.

3 oz. tomato paste

minutes, then deglaze with red wine

When the dough comes together into

6 oz. dry red wine

and add canned tomatoes. Season

a ball, knead it for about 10 minutes

2 28 oz. cans San Marzano tomatoes

with salt and pepper, and add herbs.

until it’s a cohesive, smooth mass.

3 sprigs thyme

Slow cook until the pork is tender, about

Cover with a damp towel, and let it

3 sprigs sage

three to four hours. Cook pasta al dente.

rest for half an hour. Divide the dough

8 basil leaves, chopped

Strain, add desired amount of pork

into two balls. Flatten them slightly

1/4 tsp. toasted, ground fennel seed

ragu to noodles, stir together to coat.

and dust with flour. Using a pasta

Extra-virgin olive oil

Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggia-

machine on the widest setting, feed

Salt and pepper

no, sprinkle with chopped basil.

the dough through three times. Adjust

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Serves four

Good news, Tavola fans. Charlottesville’s favorite Italian restaurant recently released a cookbook with recipes for some of its classic menu items, complete with recommended wine and music pairings. Compiled by Michael Keaveny (who coowns the restaurant with C-VILLE Weekly arts editor Tami Keaveny), Tavola: 10 Greatest Hits—Music and Food is available through the restaurant’s website (tavolavino. com) and at New Dominion Bookshop on the Downtown Mall.

of extra-virgin olive oil, onions, carrots,

Winter Knife&Fork 15

grain-free vegan no added sugars delicious Power-packed paleo bars, granola, and crackers made with organic seeds and local veggies. Available online, by subscription, and at our local retail partners: The Juice Laundry • ACAC Downtown • High Tor Gear Exhange Blenheim Vineyards • Ragged Mountain Running Shop Rebecca’s Natural Food • The Organic Butcher of McLean

Charlottesville’s small footprint of 10.4 square miles is filled with makers and creative businesses that design, produce, manufacture, and assemble products across a range of industries.

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Founded in Cville in 1982 by the Valente Family, still going strong. Just a new label. Available locally at Foods Of All Nations, Crozet Great Valu, Kroger, on the pasta shelf and Harris Teeter and Food Lion on the Local Shelf. Find us in Fluvanna at Local Eats.

Moon Maiden’s Delights is a specialty bakery focusing on nutrient dense allergy friendly pastries. Entirely gluten-free, plant-based, and organic we soak and sprout our grains in house and mill our flour fresh. Open for retail hours Mon-Fri and you can find us every Saturday at the Charlottesville City Market. Inside York Place 112 W. Main Street Suite 12 www.moonmaidensdelights.com

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Charlottesville’s small footprint of 10.4 square miles is filled with makers and creative businesses that design, produce, manufacture, and assemble products across a range of industries.

@goodphyte goodphytefoods.com

Whole Foods • Wegmans • Kroger Intergral • Yoga • Rebecca’s Natural Foods • Market St. Market • Feast! • Crozet Great Valu • Foods of All Nations •

RESTAURANTS:

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Bagels Run • FireFly • Millers • Citizen Burger Bar • Dr. Ho’s • Trinity • College Inn • Biltmore • Shadwell’s • Beer

www.nobullburger.com

BOWERBIRD BAKESHOP

is an eclectic artisanal bakeshop specializing in French macarons

Your favorite Cville City Market bakery is coming soon to the 10th Street Warehouses! and for updates. Follow us

MADE IN CHARLOTTESVILLE SUPPORTS THE UNIQUE BUSINESSES WHOSE TALENTS CONTRIBUTE TO THE DYNAMIC CITY BUSINESS COMMUNITY.

madeincharlottesville.org

“It is our hope and mission to help people eat as close to the earth as possible without compromising on quality ingredients or amazing flavor.”

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High spirits

The Dish

A UVA scientist and inventor perfects the art and craft of distilling By Joe Bargmann

UVA professor of pathology Robin Felder gestures toward the 250-gallon solid copper still in his liquor laboratory in Albemarle County. Also an inventor and entrepreneur, Felder will go to market in 2020 with craft-distilled eau de vie-style brandy and gin made with hand-picked juniper berries (below).

little red Mercedes convertible or a pricey copper still. “The Mercedes is really not ‘him,’” Mary says. “I’m a farmer,” he says dryly. “I drive a Toyota pickup truck.” The statement would be false modesty if it weren’t true, just as the Jefferson reference would be grandiose if Felder weren’t both a dedicated orchardist and accomplished inventor, a person, like Jefferson, interested in earthy pursuits as well as intellectual ones.

PHOTOS: JOHN ROBINSON

oughly five years ago, when Robin Felder was 30 years into his “day job” as a UVA professor of pathology, he decided to indulge his passion. He had started home-brewing as a teenager and always held an interest in distilling. At the hilltop home in Albemarle where he lives with his wife Mary, the professor installed a 250-gallon solid copper still and began experimenting—and now his hobby is about to become a business. In 2020, Felder, 65, will go to market with three types of “varietal gin” (a phrase he has applied to trademark) and brandies made with apples, blood peaches, and Burford pears. No prices have been set, but the spirits will demand a premium, due to the labor-intensive production and large quantity of raw materials required to make small amounts of the finished product. “Three bushels of Burford pears—that’s about 120 pounds—go into making one 375ml bottle of pear brandy,” says Felder, who has launched nine ventures out of UVA’s business-incubator program and holds 27 patents and patents pending, mostly in robotics and biomedical technologies. Felder grows the pears on the couple’s 24acre plot and had a record yield of 4,000 pounds in 2019. He credits the bounty to the dry, hot weather, and to the counsel of Tom Burford, of Vintage Virginia Apples and Albemarle CiderWorks. (Known as “Professor Apple,” Burford’s also adept with other fruits. The Burford pear is named for him.) “Burford pear is difficult to grow—susceptible to disease and damage by pests,” says Felder, who uses only organic methods. “Tom really helped me with planting and maintenance issues. If you don’t get the farming right, you’re not going to get the brandy right.” I am sitting with the Felders, who’ve been married for 45 years, in the living room of their striking modernist home, Montepiccolo— which means “tiny mountain,” a wink at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello. (Felder’s business name is Monte Piccolo Farm and Distillery.) The view filling the glass walls, facing southwest, displays dimming sunlight and mountains rippling into the distance—the tall one, more than 30 miles away, is Wintergreen. Felder jokes that he got serious about distilling after a midlife crisis choice between a

As the sun sinks into the mountains, Felder leads the way down the stone steps from the driveway to the distillery. Inside, a crescent-shaped bar curves to the left of the bulbous, gleaming still. The room is immaculate—a laboratory—and the air is redolent with the aroma of booze and fruit. Felder explains that, after taking a three-day course in Lexington, Kentucky, the U.S. mecca of distilling education and experimentation, he elected to get the same brand of still he learned on. It’s made by Vendome, founded in Louisville, Kentucky, in the early 1900s. Felder’s model is steam-heated and can distill up to 600 gallons of gin a day. “I didn’t want to be limited by the still I bought, I wanted to be limited by my market,” he says. He steps behind the bar and pours small samples of gin and pear brandy into fluted glasses. He informs me that I am an “official pre-market tester” not a “taster,” because he’s not yet licensed for the latter. The liquors are aromatic and smooth, with pine and citrus (gin) and deep fruit flavors (brandy) that linger long after a sip. These are Robin Felder’s next inventions—a delicious melding of art and science—and soon you’ll be able to sample them for yourself.

Winter Knife&Fork 17

Celebrate the best of Virginia wine & food. Award-winning wines. Live music. Special events. Seasonal menus, locally sourced. Details at earlymountain.com. Come out to Early Mountain this Winter. Early Mountain is located in Madison, Virginia in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

18 Knife&Fork Winter

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20 Knife&Fork Winter

Perfect pairing Wine and dogs— what’s not to love? Emma the Barbet is at home among the aging tanks and barrels— and everywhere else, for that matter—at Muse Vineyards.

n July 1, 2018, Virginia House Bill 286 went into effect, officially allowing dogs to enter winery tasting rooms. The occasion was met with no discernible reaction from one constituency: the dogs that live at wineries. l Those lucky animals need not engage in any “get your laws off my fur” protest. As vineyard owners and winemakers will tell you, the resident dog pretty much does whatever he or she wishes. l Whether they’re mascots, greeters, or guardians that chase away other animals, like geese or even pigs, canines at some vineyards can gain a certain level of celebrity. “People call and ask, ‘Is Fig in the tasting room today?’” Paul Summers, owner of Knight’s Gambit Vineyard, says of the popular hound. “They don’t ask about hours or whether we have a band playing on the porch—they only want to know about Fig.” l We’re tail-wagging happy to introduce you to Fig and a few other four-legged drinking buddies right here.

By Joe Bargmann Photography by Zack Wajsgras Winter Knife&Fork 21

rustic • italian • food • wine rustic • italian •• cicchetti food • wine bar craft cocktails craft cocktails • cicchetti bar 434.972.9463 tavolavino.com 434.972.9463 826 Hinton Ave tavolavino.com Charlottesville 826 Hinton Ave VA 2 2 9 0 2 Charlottesville

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GR ACEESTATEWINERY.COM 5273 MOUNT JULIET FARM, CROZET, VIRGINIA

WILLIAM ATWOOD ARCHITECT – ARTIST

williamatwoodarchitect@gmail.com 434 466 6466

22 Knife&Fork Winter

FIG

EMMA

Owner, winery: Paul

(PREVIOUS PAGE)

Summers, Knight’s Gambit Owners, winery: Robert Muse

Vineyard

and Sally Cowal, Muse Vineyards

Gender, breed: female, hound

Gender, breed: female, Barbet

mix

(French water dog)

Age: 3

Age: 6

Origin: Charlottesville/

Origin: American Barbet,

Albemarle SPCA

Indianapolis

Attributes: Sweet, affable

Attributes: Sweet, gentle,

Duties: “When the tasting

and calm—but also an instinctive

room is open, she mingles,”

hunter

Summers says. “Otherwise,

Duties: “Her main preoccupation

she’s out hunting something

is keeping various and sundry mammals from invading the

or other.”

vineyards,” Cowal relates by email.

Memorable moment: “None

“These have included raccoons,

really stands out. She’s just so

deer, groundhogs, possums,

all-around friendly—that’s her

squirrels, and rabbits. She also

greatest characteristic.”

greets tasting room visitors, both human and canines, with enthusiasm!” Memorable moment: “Her most outrageous, wildest act,” Cowal writes, “was killing a fawn and then dragging the poor thing around in front of startled visitors!”

ABBE

SHELB

Owners, winery: Jason and Laura Lavallee, Wisdom Oak Winery Gender, breed: both female; golden retriever (Abbey), German shepherd/border collie mix (Shelby) Ages: Abbey, 11, Shelby, 9 Origin: Abbey, Augusta Dog Adoptions, Waynesboro; Shelby, a farmer in Pennsylvania Attributes: “Abbey’s mellow and reserved,” Laura Lavallee says. “Shelby’s outgoing and rough-and-tumble, a tomboy dog.” Duties: Abbey mostly hangs out with visitors on the patio, but she also looks to Shelby for direction and will follow her around. “Shelby’s the hunter—chasing away birds and deer,” says Lavallee. Memorable moment: “Four pigs got loose from the farm next door and decided to visit,” she says. “Next door in this case means a half-mile away. Shelby spent a good 25 minutes herding them. It was a lot of work, but she got them back home.”

Winter Knife&Fork 23

Made of Sometrhing Mo e

FAIRTRADE INGREDIENTS

We’re committed to Fairtrade,* which assures farmers a fair price & benefits their families, communities, & the environment.

SOURCED N N GM

The ingredients in our ice cream are not genetically modified.

WE’RE A CERTIFIED B CORP

Thank you to our veterans, Law Enforcement, EMT, Firefighters & Teachers

We run our business in a socially responsible way, meeting rigorous standards of accountability & environmental performance.

Show your valid ID card & receive 10% off of your meal

Excludes alcohol, gift cards, taxes & gratuity. Not valid with any other offers

109 West Main Street • Louisa, VA 23093 obrigadorestaurant.com • 540.967.9447

24 Knife&Fork Winter

Barracks Road Center

FOR $1

Any size cup or cone. Kids’ size excluded. Waffle cones extra. Offer expires: 03/31/20. Limit one coupon per customer per visit.

DENSE, NOT AIRY

We don’t add a lot of air to our ice cream which means rich & creamy ice cream & more bent spoons.

434-244-7438 www.benjerry.com/ charlottesville

BIRDIE Owner, winery: Ben Jordan, Early Mountain Vineyards Gender, breed: female, blue heeler (Australian cattle dog) Age: 5 Origin: Harrisonburg breeder Attributes: Big personality, high energy, always “on” Duties: “She hangs out at the winery, not down near the tasting room. She thinks it’s her job to watch over me, so she follows me everywhere, out to the vineyards, you name it.” Memorable moment: “We had a big event for the Virginia Winemaking Board. There were buyers in from around the country. We were all sitting down, eating—lamb cooked on a spit. I got a tap on my shoulder, looked up, and Birdie was standing on the [carving] table, licking up the drippings. It made quite the picture—I had it framed.”

TI REY Owners, winery: Dee and Roe Allison, Reynard Florence Vineyard Gender, breed: male, Corgi Age: 7 Origin: Dalarno Welsh Corgis, Culpeper Attributes: Gentle, unflappable, confident Duties: “He’s our official greeter,” Dee Allison says. “When people arrive for a tasting, he knows before we do, goes straight to the door, and herds them in.” Memorable moment: “He picks out certain people he likes, lays down beside them, and puts his head on their foot—right there at the tasting bar,” she says.

Winter Knife&Fork 25

S M T A T R R E K H E T TE E

M RT IA E N TE U

I DN

W M E A I S N T

14 6

Charlottesville's favorite tasting experience &Â best specialty food store!

local food . lunch cafe . coffee . wine . catering . gifts 26 Knife&Fork Winter

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Colon cancer is the second-leading cause of cancer related deaths. To learn more or to schedule your colonoscopy, please call or visit www.cvillegi.com.

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Bill

eating local

412 E Main St, Charlottesville, VA 22902 • 434-956-4110 • maru.cville@gmail.com

Grocery Department Manager for the last 17 years

Bill

Grocery Department Manager for the last 18 years

Barracks Rd. Shopping Ctr. Mon-Sat

FREE 1st hour parking Market and Water Street Garage

My time is spent with food, preparing food, researching food, talking to people about food.

My time is Rebecca’s spent with food, I feel that is the obvious choice for preparing food, closing the loop in researching food, support of buying local. eating local talking to people about food. This farm-to-table advantage is apparent

My time is spent with food, preparing food, I feel that isabout the obvious choice researching food,Rebecca’s talking to people in food. the quality of thefor I feel thatloop Rebecca’s the in issupport of buying local. products. the obvious choice for advantage is apparent in the quality closing the loop in support of buying local. This farm-to-table is apparent 9-8, advantage Sun 10-6 in the quality of the products.

closing This farm-to-table of the products.

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Barracks Rd. Shopping Ctr. Mon-Sat 9-8, Sun 10-6

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28 Knife&Fork Winter

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Winter Knife&Fork 29

Chestnut dreams In Nelson County, growers bring back a local delicacy

30 Knife&Fork Winter

Chestnut dreams In Nelson County, growers bring back a local delicacy

30 Knife&Fork Winter

By Erika Howsare

Photography by Zack Wajsgras Sunlight slants into the orchard at the Bryant Farms and Nursery in Shipman, one of five growers in the Virginia Chestnuts consortium.

Winter Knife&Fork 31

By Erika Howsare

Photography by Zack Wajsgras Sunlight slants into the orchard at the Bryant Farms and Nursery in Shipman, one of five growers in the Virginia Chestnuts consortium.

Winter Knife&Fork 31

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813 EAST JEFFERSON STREET • CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA 22902 32 Knife&Fork Winter

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Passionate about Helping People SELL & BUY Residential Real Estate in the Charlottesville Area. We can’t wait to connect with you & Share Some of our Best Adventures!

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ryant Farms and Nursery in Shipman doesn’t look that remarkable from the road: just acres of hillsides planted with young trees, their straight slender trunks forming a grid pattern. It’s not obvious, from a distance, what species is growing here. But following the gravel drive through the orchard, down into a ravine and up again, one begins to notice the odd-looking green balls hanging from the branches. Fiercely spiky, lime-colored, a little bigger than chicken eggs, these could only be the fruit of the legendary chestnut tree. Dave Bryant, who with his wife Kim owns these 46 acres, walks up to one of his 1,600 trees and steps on a fallen fruit laying in the shade beneath it. Its husk, which would poke holes in your skin as surely as any defensive desert cactus, gives way under his boot and splits neatly into four petal-like quadrants. Inside is a trio of dark nuts, as smooth and inviting to the touch as their husk is forbidding. This is early October, and as Bryant explains, the trees have been dropping nuts for about three weeks, with perhaps a week to go. “They’re 10 years old, and they’re just coming into peak production,” he says. The farm illustrates the mid-harvest moment, with pieces of dry brown husk on the ground, other fruit still waiting green in the trees, and processing equipment at the ready in the barn. It’s curious how unfamiliar the trees are— their leaves and fruit seeming slightly alien— considering that the American chestnut was once a key native species throughout Appalachia. Richard Powers’ tree-obsessed novel The Overstory captures their beauty and importance: “The chestnuts up North were majestic. But the southern trees are gods. They form near-pure stands for miles on end. In the Carolinas, boles older than America grow ten feet wide and a hundred and twenty feet tall. Whole forests of them flower in rolling clouds of white. Scores of mounBuy and Sell Cville Team

tain communities are built from the beautiful, straight-grained wood. A single tree might yield as many as fourteen thousand planks. The stocks of food that fall shin-deep feed entire counties, every year a mast year.” Powers goes on to describe the tragic, mindboggling epidemic that saw America’s four billion chestnut trees fall prey to blight in the early decades of the 20th century. Accidentally introduced from Asia, the fungus spread rapidly from its entry point in New York City and within 40 years had wiped out nearly every chestnut in the country. Though chestnuts lived on in cultural memory, they left a glaring absence in the actual forests.

Comeback crop Dave Bryant says he wasn’t really pondering this history when he decided to plant a chestnut orchard. He and Kim just wanted to find a profitable crop to raise in their retirement, something they could physically handle as they grew older (as opposed to, he says, green beans that must be picked while bending over). Wry and gregarious, with a neat white goatee, Bryant grew up in Nelson County and worked as

a software developer before buying this property in 2002. The couple stumbled on the notion of chestnut farming as they researched many potential crops. Luckily for them, and for everyone who enjoys eating chestnuts, there are now hybrid varieties available that are bred to resist blight. The Bryants chose the variety Dunstan: 95 percent American chestnut, with 5 percent Chinese chestnut genes offering protection from disease. “Later, we said, ‘This is romantic,’” Bryant says—referring to the act of replanting 23 acres in Appalachia with a species that once held such significance here. But it’s harvest time, and practical matters come first. For example, the Bryants and their helpers know that any nuts left lying on the ground overnight are likely to end up feeding deer—so they make a point of harvesting in the last hours before dark. “They fall to the ground naturally,” says Bryant. “We pick them up by hand, or I have a harvester I pull behind the tractor.” The machine’s rubber fingers flick the nuts onto a mesh conveyor belt that delivers them into plastic totes. Lots of husks, sticks, and rocks end up in those totes too, which is where the pre-cleaner machine CONTINUED ON PAGE 35

The fruit of the chestnut tree makes a prickly first impression, but the flavor is rich, earthy, and sweet.

Nominees: Candice & Bert

ssionate about Helping le SELL & BUY Residential Real Estate in the lottesville Area. We can’t ait to connect with you Share Some of our Best Adventures!

Its husk, which would poke holes in your skin as surely as any defensive desert cactus, gives way under his boot and splits neatly into four petal-like quadrants. Inside is a trio of dark nuts, as smooth and inviting to the touch as their husk is forbidding. Winter Knife&Fork 33

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The City Market has moved inside for the winter. The City Market has moved inside for the winter. Come find a special gift for that special someone. Stop and shop local. One hour of FREE parking at the Market Street parking garage. Phone: (434) 970-3371 Email: citymarket@charlottesville.org Online: charlottesville.org/citymarket Closed February 8.

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34 Knife&Fork Winter

Dave and Kim Bryant sort the 2019 harvest, which yielded a generous 15,000 pounds. While the final work is done by hand, collecting the chestnuts is done mechanically. After cleaning, the reddish mahogany nuts are packed in little burlap bags that hold two pounds and sell for $17.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 33

(nickname: Ethel) comes in. Sorting materials by weight and size, Ethel separates the “trash” from the nuts—“a lifesaver for us,” Bryant says. “We did it manually for the first couple of years.” Ethel is officially designed to clean pecans, which speaks to the fact that chestnuts are a specialty crop, not as tightly woven into our culinary culture as other nuts. Having joined with four other growers in central Virginia to form the cooperative company Virginia Chestnuts, Bryant sells much of his product in cute two-pound burlap sacks at holiday markets and roadside stops. (A two-pound sack on virginiachestnuts.com costs $17.) They may not be a staple like walnuts or almonds, but they do enjoy a close association in American tradition with Thanksgiving and Christmas, which certainly helps move product. November, says Bryant, is the most important sales month on the chestnut grower’s calendar. He’s pleased with this year’s crop, which he expects to weigh in at around 15,000 pounds. “It’s been so dry,” he says, “but the chestnuts are a nice size. You want them to have that red mahogany color”—and to feel very firm when squeezed. As an entity, Virginia Chestnuts lives on the Bryant farm and is mostly run by Dave and Kim, but it’s meant to make life easier for all five of its member growers. A decade ago when they were just starting to plant their orchards, Bryant

says, “We decided, ‘Let’s not all buy [our own] equipment and do processing.’” Apple growers had formed similar co-ops in the past, pooling resources to make washing, packing and marketing more efficient. The group sells mainly fresh chestnuts, but Bryant says there’s a limit to that market, and as the growers’ crops continue to burgeon, they’ll begin to supply other products: dehydrated and frozen

chestnuts, plus chestnut flour. Bryant expects future yields to reach 50,000 pounds per year. After getting washed in a tank fitted out with bristly rollers, the chestnuts go inside to a sanitary processing room, where they get pasteurized, dipped in food-grade hydrogen peroxide, dried on racks, and chilled in walk-in coolers. As for the trees outside, they’re starting to close the gaps between their crowns, so they’ll soon be thinned to leave more space for each one to grow. Their mature height will be around 40 feet. It’s different than the old-time stories of families wandering the mountains, shaded by chestnut trees 10 stories tall, and filling baskets with the natural abundance of the forest—a food given freely by the Appalachian environment and the giant trees it nurtured. But this orchard is a link to that time, experienced with all the senses: the sharpness of the husk, and its inner lining as velvety as a rabbit’s ear; the weight of the shiny dark nut in your hand; the moist yellow meat inside the skin that smells faintly of grass and cracks audibly when you bite into it. Mild, sweet, and satisfying, the flavor of a fresh raw chestnut is a true local delicacy (to say nothing of the sublime things that happen when you roast it—in your oven or, as the song has it, on an open fire). Says Bryant, “You can’t hardly beat that as a snack.”

Winter Knife&Fork 35

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 33

Winter Knife&Fork 35

European Heritage meets Southern Charm European European Heritage meets Southern Charm European We invite you to visit ourgrapes grapesare aregrown, grown,see see We us. Enjoy the the views viewswhere whereour see Weinvite inviteyou you to to visit visit us. us. Enjoy We invite you to visit see how we make the our award winning winning wines, wines,and andtaste tastethe thefruits fruitsofofour ourlabor. labor. how award labor. howwe wemake make the the our our award award how we make the our labor.

36 Knife&Fork Winter www.veritaswines.com

| 434.456.8000 | 151 Veritas Lane, Afton, Virginia. www.veritaswines.com || 434.456.8000 www.veritaswines.com 434.456.8000| |151 151Veritas VeritasLane, Lane,Afton, Afton,Virginia. Virginia. www.veritaswines.com | 434.456.8000 | 151 Veritas Lane, Afton, Virginia.

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ZACK WAJSGRAS

Hog wild

Waynesboro’s Autumn Olive Farms crossed two heritage breeds—Patterson Registered Berkshires and Ossabaw Island hogs—to create the signature AOF Berkabaw, a six-year project that the owners call “the perfect pig.”

Local farmers let their pigs roam free, producing top-notch pork By Eric Wallace Winter Knife&Fork 39

Winter Tasting Room hours: Friday through Sunday 11:30am-5pm

Monday through Thursday book a Private Winemaker Tasting visit@montifalcovineyard.com

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40 Knife&Fork Winter

ZACK WAJSGRAS

he rain lets up all at once and the sun burns through the clouds, turning the dreary October day startlingly warm and pleasant. Clay Trainum, 58, walks swiftly along a dirt farm road behind his Waynesboro home, cutting across a 14-acre field toward a row of about 10 wooden lean-tos. The triangular structures stand at the edge of a forest and are overhung by tree limbs— nut-bearing walnuts, oaks, and hickories, Trainum is quick to point out. Spaced at comfortable intervals and surrounded by scattered piles of hay, the huts give the impression of a small village. “Pig houses,” says Trainum. He owns this, Autumn Olive Farms, with his wife, Linda. “You ready for a show?” As if called, the pigs appear: About 10 big sows waddle into the light. They have bristly black hair, long white snouts, sagging teats and strong, squatty legs. A cross between heritage breed Berkshire and Ossabaw Island hogs, the 300- to 500-pound moms look more like wild boars than livestock. The safari-esque impression, however, is curtailed by chubby-cheeked mouths that seem to smile and dozens of curly-tailed piglets that scamper about their mamas’ hooves, playful as puppies. The early autumn has been hectic at Autumn Olive Farm, but in a good way. Trainum and his wife manage about 500 acres and more than 1,500 swine with the help of their two adult sons. When the full heat of summer relents, birthing season begins, and the sows have delivered about 200 piglets in the past five weeks. Ranging freely through parcels like this one, they nest where they please. Most choose lean-to villages or piles of hay tucked under nearby trees and brush. Some opt for wilder spots in the woods—a burrow under a fallen tree, or a leaf-filled nook beneath a rocky outcropping. The Trainums monitor them closely to avoid losing animals to delivery complications. On top of butchering about 30 pigs a week and delivering meat to Michelin-starred chefs in a territory that includes Charlottesville, Albemarle County, Washington, D.C., and southern Maryland, the job is grueling. “It’s a tremendous amount of work to raise pigs this way,” says Trainum. “And to me, this isn’t just the right way, it’s the only way.” By contrast, he describes the cramped, concrete-floored, indoor confinement pins found at factory farms—a “perverse nightmare,” he says, where animals may never see the light of day, much less forage for nuts and berries. “Cre-

Clay Trainum started his sustainable pig farm with his wife, Linda, in 2005. Their raise their animals well, with sheltering tents and plenty of good stuff to eat.

ating a superior product, being environmentally sustainable, treating animals humanely? If it isn’t required by regulation, if it doesn’t maximize profits, it doesn’t matter.” Presently, the Berkabaw sows are marching toward a patch of sunlight in a staggered single-file line, trailed by a goofy procession of piglets. Crossing the threshold, the big pigs plop down and commence rolling on their sides like sunning dogs. Some of the piglets take the opportunity to nurse. Others mimic their moms. Most bustle about and play.

“Would you look at that?” says Trainum, like a besotted grandparent. He explains how the pigs prefer to take shelter from the rain and gloom, then “throw a party when the sun comes back out.” “It always lifts my spirits to see it,” he says. “It’s one of the joys of being a farmer, getting to know these animals and their habits so intimately.” For Charlottesville-area diners, that intimacy—and the husbandry practices it informs— has led to the creation of what chefs say is a world-class terroir pork product. “I serve pork from Autumn Olive Farms exclusively,” says Matthew Bousquet, executive chef of 1799 at The Clifton and previous owner and chef of northern California’s Mirepoix, where he won a Michelin star. In terms of flavor and uniqueness, “I’d put this meat up against anything in the world. It’s that good.”

High on the hog The success of heritage-breed operations in Virginia like Trainum’s and the now-famous Polyface Farm, in Swoope, has inspired other farmers to follow suit. In turn, increasing awareness and demand among customers has fueled the rise of artisanal abattoirs and butcher shops. CONTINUED ON PAGE 43

The big pigs plop down and commence rolling on their sides like sunning dogs. Some of the piglets take the opportunity to nurse. Others mimic their moms. Most bustle about and play. Winter Knife&Fork 41

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42 Knife&Fork Winter

JOHN ROBINSON

A butcher at J.M. Stock breaks down an AOF pig. “If someone takes home a Berkshire tenderloin from Autumn Olive, they’re gonna come back for more,” says Stock manager Alex Import. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 41

“What we’re seeing is essentially a niche [culinary] renaissance centered around heritage-breed pork products,” says Mark Estienne, a Virginia Tech professor who oversees swine-related research at the Tidewater Agricultural Research and Extension Center. Though there are no official statistics (the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services neither keeps track of breeds nor categorizes swine farms by size), Estienne says that, of the state’s give-or-take 1,000 hog farms, the vast majority are small-scale producers raising heritage breeds. Most sell their products at local farmer’s markets or by contract with regional restaurants and shops. But before the current boom there was a bust. By the close of the 1980s, the shift toward “vertically integrated” farming models had reduced the number of Virginia swine farms from about 4,000 to well below 500. In short, says Estienne, one or two corporate farms “bought out the competition, contracted with most of the remaining farmers and dominated the market.”

Though once the norm, the number of heritage animals in Virginia had been in sharp decline since at least the early 1960s. The animals are finicky, need plenty of space, and perform poorly in intensive farming models, says Estienne. Through time, heritage breeds were replaced by hybrids bred for placidity, and speedy maturation for increased yields. As a result, traditional favorites like Ossabaw Island Hog, Mulefoot, Large Black, Guinea Hog, Choctaw, Gloucestershire Old Spots, and Red Wattle nearly vanished. But that started changing in the mid 2000s, says Estienne. The heritage breed renaissance began at farmer’s markets feeding the locavore and farm-to-table revolutions. Discerning customers looked for environmentally sustainable, humanely raised meats, spurring the demand for free-range pork. “Ten, 15 years ago, everybody was rediscovering heirloom tomatoes,” says Alex Import, who manages JM Stock Provisions. “Now, the same holds true for heritage-breed meats.” First and foremost is the taste.

“Farmers like Clay Trainum go insanely over the top to produce meat that tastes fabulous,” says Bousquet. Of course, there’s the freshness factor: Meat from an Autumn Olive Farms hog slaughtered on Monday arrives at 1799 within 48 hours. But that’s just the beginning. Roaming hills and hollows for forage builds healthy muscles. Forests and grounds are curated to maximize edibles like wild roots and tubers, nuts, berries, and fruits. Fields are planted with a mix of rotating seasonal crops like pearl millet, winter barley, sunflowers, buckwheat, cowpeas, beans, sun hemp, squash, pumpkins, peanuts, and more. Supplemental feed is made from organic, sustainably-raised local ingredients. Hormones and antibiotics are anathema. Combined with a climate Estienne says is ideal for raising pigs, the practices minimize stress, which produces better meat, according to studies by food scientists and agronomists, including Estienne. “On one hand, you have a natural dietary diversity that’s unparalleled throughout the world,” CONTINUED ON PAGE 45

Winter Knife&Fork 43

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44 Knife&Fork Winter

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 43

says Import, who has traveled to porcine hot spots in Europe to study under artisan butchers and charcuterie makers. “On the other [hand], you have farmers that truly care about, and are hyperattentive to, their animals’ well being. And I’ve yet to have a customer that doesn’t taste the difference. If somebody takes home a Berkshire tenderloin from Autumn Olive, they’re gonna come back for more.” Though Import declines to provide specific numbers, he says JM Stock sells out of pork products made with Autumn Olive meat each week, and the shop’s clientele is steadily growing.

Added value for heritage breeds comes from the fact that, like heirloom tomatoes, different types bring different culinary qualities. Whether evolved or developed through centuries of selective breeding, musculature and fat-storing characteristics can vary drastically from breed to breed, says Estienne. From a culinary perspective, the result is a wide range of flavors, textures, and taste sensations. Ossabaw Island hogs, for instance, are descended from Iberian swine released by Spanish explorers on an isolated island on the Georgia coast in the 1600s. The animals subsequently developed exquisite foraging instincts and a feast-or-famine gene that supercharged their capacity to store fat. In an ecosystem like the one at Autumn Olive Farms, Ossabaws produce what Import describes as a “crazy, funky, ultra-woodsy, deliciously nutty, hard fat.” Its unique texture and low melting point combine to create a sumptuous and velvety mouthfeel, making the fat ideal for charcuterie blends. Berkshires, meanwhile, hail from England— the shire of Berks—and are believed to have entered the historical record sometime in the mid-17th century. Their popularity led to the founding of the American Berkshire Association in 1875, the world’s first breeders’ group and swine registry. “From a butcher’s standpoint, Berkshires produce an ideal carcass,” says Import. “The meatto-fat ratio is essentially perfect. You get these amazing dark red cuts with hard, white fat and exquisite marbling.” Bousquet serves dishes incorporating both breeds at 1799. He uses lard from Ossabaws to make breads, as well as for frying and seasoning. A favorite fall dish pairs Berkshire pork belly with foraged chokeberries, pureed butternut squash, kale, and slivers of caramelized heirloom apples. “I’ve worked with a lot of pork in my career and this is the best I’ve ever eaten,” says Bousquet. (Other chefs with Michelin stars who serve Au-

TOM MCGOVERN

Fat is flavor

At The Clifton, chef Matthew Bousquet serves AOF pork shoulder with escargot, garlic butter, pinot noir sauce, fried parsley, and a sunny-side-up egg.

tumn Olive Farms pork include Patrick O’Connell from The Inn at Little Washington and John Sybert from Tail Up Goat, in Washington, D.C.) Bousquet adds that heritage breed producers in Virginia’s mountain region (and greater Appalachia) have the potential to become for the U.S. what Black Iberian farmers are for Spain. “This meat is a true and authentic expression of the terroir. It’s as close as anything I’ve ever seen, anywhere, that absolutely goes with the region.”

The good earth Trainum says he’s thrilled eaters have rediscovered heritage pork—and are thereby helping rescue rare breeds and related flavors from the brink of extinction. But he’s equally happy the sustainability practices he uses at Autumn Olive Farms are being adapted elsewhere. “In my experience, folks that raise heritage breed pigs strive to be good land stewards,” says Estienne. “They believe in going the extra mile to minimize negative environmental impacts.” Trainum takes the ethos a step further. “Our goal is to have a net-positive effect,” he says. “And everything we do keeps that goal in mind.”

Fodder crops like legumes work double duty, feeding pigs and adding nitrogen to soils depleted by decades of monocultural farming techniques. Allowing crops to decompose naturally builds topsoil and increases water retention. Rotational grazing techniques distribute manure evenly and obviate the need for artificial fertilizer. Forested stream buffers are a minimum of 100 feet wide (about three times the recommended distance, according to Trainum). Pigs cool off in sequestered man-made lagoons and drink from watering tanks. Estienne says such measures help control runoff and keep pollutants out of waterways. Meanwhile, acres of fallow corn fields have been reforested with hardwood trees; over 1,000 have been planted on the farm to date, and more are added each year. Trainum envisions a future where farm and delivery trucks run on electricity or biodiesel produced onsite. “To me, this is a win-win-win-win situation,” says Import. He works with a topshelf product and serves as a go-between for customers and farmers that, together, want to improve the way the world eats. “I think of it like, we’re all holding hands, dancing together toward a future where this is the model.”

Winter Knife&Fork 45

Service ServiceDogs Dogs Dogsof of ofVirginia Virginia Virginia Service Service Dogs of Virginia

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Winter Knife&Fork 47

Offbeat but on point Lightwell Survey winery pushes into new territory By Paul Ting

48 Knife&Fork Winter

JOHN ROBINSON

Winemaker Ben Jordan’s creations for Early Mountain Vineyards are lush and more familiar tasting than those for his Lightwell Survey side project, where he applies a spirit of creativity and curiosity to produce wines he calls “unusual” and “provocative.”

n a sunny, blustery day in October, friends and fans of the four-year-old Virginia winery Lightwell Survey gathered in Waynesboro to celebrate the 2017 vintage release. Notably, a clown juggled red balls while swaying on a balance board, keeping the mood light—and slightly off-kilter. The winery’s neighbors in the complex include a concrete-fabrication facility as well as blacksmithing, glass blowing, and ceramics studios. The exposed brick, casement windows, fading green paint, and thick ceiling beams spoke to the site’s history, while the vibrancy of the new tenants generated a palpable sense of creativity and renewal. Brothers Sebastian and Jay Zutant and winemaker Ben Jordan founded Lightwell in 2015. Jordan holds the same title at Early Mountain Vineyards in Madison County and at Midland Construction, a venture with his brothers Tim and Gray, which produces wine from grapes grown at the family’s farm in Fort Defiance, Virginia. Jay Zutant, a digital whiz who’s worked at StubHub, eBay, and Vivino, added his business acumen to the team as well as financing. Sebastian Zutant’s resume reads like an insider’s list of where to eat in Washington, D.C., with stints at Nectar, Komi, Rasika, The Red Hen, Proof, All Purpose, and now Primrose. But it might be his self-professed love of “goth punk rock” that best explains the aesthetic of Lightwell Survey. “Goodbye Horses,” the winery’s riesling, is named after Zutant’s favorite song—the one that plays in Silence of the Lambs while the killer is putting on makeup. Jordan met Sebastian Zutant on a wine project for The Red Hen, which Zutant opened in 2014 as a partner and head of the beverage program. The men bonded quickly, in part because of a shared affinity for wines imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, which can be described as “non-interventionalist,” meaning, they seek

to express the nature of the land and the grapes with minimal manipulation. Both Jordan and Zutant had come to love these wines in the early ’80s, long before the “natural wines” trend. Zutant and Jordan agreed to launch Lightwell and jointly set its direction. Jay Zutant tossed in his lot with the visionaries, including the one who hired the clown (not Jordan), and together they began searching for grapes to express their tastes. Jordan describes the philosophy of Lightwell Survey as one that applies a spirit of creativity and curiosity to produce “unusual, delicious, and provocative wines,” per the brand’s website. Lightwell Survey wines make their first impression with the labels—dark, folksy, sharpedged illustrations by D.C. artist John DeNapoli. Each wine has its own backstory, and the artist’s interpretation of that story guides the label art. It is intentionally sinister and dramatic (remember, Silence of the Lambs), like a poster for a rock ‘n’ roll gig. The non-traditional branding echoes inside the bottle as well. Jordan says the Lightwell team is always asking “What if…?” and “Why can’t we…?” They have valued these two questions, and the answers they produce, from the very start of their collaboration. Exhibit A: The 2017 Los Idiots, a blend of 59 percent syrah (red) and 41 percent riesling (white)—unusual, to be sure, but also successful. However, Jordan is also careful to emphasize that respect for established winemaking traditions informs their ethos. “We’re not just being weird,” he says, underlining his point with an analogy: “You can craft a chair, and it can be highly creative and even look very odd but, in the end, there are certain principles about being a chair. It still has to hold someone up when they sit on it.” The winemaking approach is self-described as minimalist: no added yeast, low to no added

sulfur, and no filtering unless needed for stability in the bottle. The results, he hopes, are “aromatically driven wines with depth of flavor.” Judging by the tasting in Waynesboro, he hits the mark. Jordan’s work for Early Mountain places him high among the ranks of central Virginia’s “traditional” winemakers, but with Lightwell he is deliberately pressing into scarcely charted territory. One sign of this is the lack of a central vineyard. Jordan seeks grapes planted in cooler climates, at relatively high elevations, or in stony soil. Lightwell eschews the “wine trail model” of large buildings in more populated areas. This enables them to choose fruit suitable to the wine they want to make, obviates a large capital investment, and makes more grapes available in a state where they’re in increasingly short supply. This unencumbered, small-scale model is common among the more established winemaking regions of the world—and perhaps a sign that Virginia’s wine industry is emerging from its infancy and entering a new stage of maturity. More than once, Jordan reiterates that “we are both looking forward and remembering the past.” Ultimately, one can sense the tension between a reflective respect for what’s come before and an excited curiosity about what’s next. This tension seems to be reflected in the character of the wines, as if what is in the subconscious of the winemaker cannot help but be expressed in the wine. Lightwell Survey is still a very small winery, producing fewer than 1,000 cases a year. But one gets the sense that Jordan and the Zutants would like the business to grow, guided, of course, by the baseline questions “What if…?” and “Why not…?”

Lightwell Survey wines can be purchased online at lightwellsurvey.com

TASTE TEST A red and a white by Lightwell Survey 2017 Los Idiots

2017 Hintermen

59 percent syrah, 41 percent riesling; $29.99

72 percent riesling, 28 percent petit manseng; $29.99

The combination of grapes in these proportions is already

This white combines a grape that is relatively rare in Virginia,

noteworthy, but Jordan goes a step further by letting them

riesling, with one that holds great promise here, petite

ferment and rest together on the skins (instead of post-fer-

manseng. Hinterman has a shy nose that teases with hints

mentation blending). Los Idiots has a penetrating nose of

of tropical fruit flavors (papaya, mango, pineapple)

strawberry overlaid with Asian spices (anise, five spice,

characteristic of petite manseng. On the palate these

cardamom). On the palate, violet and rose floral elements

flavors are also present and in balance, demonstrating the

emerge, as does a lime-strawberry taste like one of those

composition of the wine. The acid of the riesling provides a

interesting Jell-o combinations. The finish is complex and

lift but is balanced by some roundness and texture on the

elusive. Lemon? Lime? Pineapple? Ultimately, the wine is

tongue that comes from the petite manseng. The finish

light and refreshing, with many layers of flavor.

lingers like lime hard candy, inviting another sip.

Winter Knife&Fork 49

503 Faulconer Drive Charlottesville · VA · 22903 p: 434.295.1131 f: 434.293.7377

MCLEAN FAULCONER INC.

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MCLFarm, EAN FAULCONER INC. Estate and Residential Brokers

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Restaurant Guide Restaurant price ranges $/Under $10, $$/$10-25, $$$/$25+

Asian Cuisine Afghan Kabob Palace Authentic Afghan cuisine. 400 Emmet St. N. 245-0095. $$. Asian Express Cheap and cheerful, plus delivery. 909 W. Main St. 979-1888. $. Bamboo House Korean and Chinese in a surreal roadhouse with deer taxidermy diorama. 4831 Seminole Trail. 973-9211. $$. Bang! Asian-fusion tapas, extensive martini menu, in a funky Victorian house. 213 Second St. 984BANG. $$.

Little India Delicious Pakistani, Indian, and Middle Eastern-inspired food for veggies and carnivores. 1329 W. Main St. 202-2067. $.

Taste of India Delicious Indian fare and a lunch buffet under $9. 310 E. Main St, Downtown Mall. 984-9944. $$.

Love Sushi King All-you-can-eat sushi for $11.98 (lunch) or $17.99 (dinner). Seminole Square Shopping Center. 978-1199. $.

Tea House Chinese-American and authentic Chinese weekly specials. 325 Four Leaf Ln., Crozet. 823-2868. $.

Quality Pie In the former Spudnuts spot, ex-Mas tapas chef Tomas Rahal serves inventive dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 309 Avon St. 284-5120. $$.

Maharaja Spicy Indian specialties. The lunch buffet’s a deal. Seminole Square Shopping Center. 973-1110. $$.

Ten Upscale second-floor spot serving modern Japanese in a beautifully designed space. 120B E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-6691. $$$.

Vivi’s Cakes and Candy Cakes, cupcakes, and candy by former Sweethaus team. 2248 Ivy Rd. 242-9511. $.

Marco & Luca’s Noodle Shop Quality meets quantity for under $5. York Place, Downtown Mall, 295-3855; 107 Elliewood Ave., 244-0016; 176 Zan Rd., no phone. $.

Thai ’99 II Thai noodle and rice dishes, curries and stir-frys in an inspired interior. Gardens Shopping Center. 964-1212. $.

Bars and Grills

Maru Korean BBQ & Grill Traditional Korean food with modern additions. 412 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 956-4110. $.

Bangkok ’99 Traditional Thai. 540 Radford Ln. #700, Crozet, 823-5881; 2005 Commonwealth Dr., 974-1326. $$.

Mi Canton Chinese and Latin cuisine. Think pupusas with a side of beef lo mein. McIntire Plaza. 296-8661. $.

Beijing Station Chinese favorites on the Corner. 104 14th St. NW. 234-3877. $.

Milan Indian Cuisine Authentic Indian cuisine with all the standards; daily lunch buffet. 1817 Emmet St. 984-2828. $$.

Café 88 Inexpensive dim sum, bento boxes, and soups. Lots of veggie offerings. Preston Plaza. 2939888. $. Chimm Thai Thai street food, excellent dumplings, named a 2019 top-10 new restaurant by Knife & Fork. 5th Street Station. 288-1122. $$. Chopsticks Express No-nonsense Chinese place. 1841 Seminole Trail. 975-4380. $. Doma Korean Kitchen Korean-style barbecue, kimchi, and more. 701 W. Main St. 202-1956. $. Druknya House Authentic Tibetan cuisine. 2208 Fontaine Ave. 995-5539. $$.

Ming Dynasty Chinese food with many vegetarian options. Low-fat menu available. 1417 Emmet St. N. 979-0909. $. Monsoon Siam Curries, pad Thai, and other entrées, plus an outdoor patio. 113 W. Market St. 971-1515. $$. Mochiko Good Hawaiian eats. The Yard at 5th Street Station. $. Noo-Do-Ne Vietnamese Thai fusion, noodle soups, and rice bowls. York Place, Downtown Mall. $.

East Garden From chow mein to General Tso’s. Pantops Shopping Center. 295-2888. $.

Noodles & Company Fast-casual chain with noodles, soups, and sandwiches. The Shops at Stonefield. 984-9621. $.

Ginkgo Chinese Restaurant Sichuan classics from a Peter Chang-trained chef. 104 14th St. NW #8. 872-9386. $/$$.

North American Sake Brewery Excellent Japanese-American fare in Virginia’s only sake brewery. 522 Second St. NE. 767-8105

Got Dumplings Pork, chicken, shrimp and chive, tofu—fast and hot. 1395 W. Main St. 244-3040. $.

Now & Zen Bite-sized gourmet Japanese and sushi spot. 202 Second St. NW. 971-1177. $$.

Hibachi Grill & Supreme Buffet Watch chefs prepare food hibachi-style. 1185 Seminole Trail. 973-8889. $$. Himalayan Fusion Curries, tandoori, and other faves, plus a lunch buffet. 520 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 293-3120. $$. Hong Kong Restaurant & Take-out Favorite Chinese entrées down Avon way. Southside Shopping Center, off Avon Street. 245-8818. $. Jade Garden Chinese essentials, plus twists like Hawaiian-style Triple Delight. 1139 Fifth St. SW. 979-3512. $. Kabuto Sushi and Teppanyaki Beautifully presented fresh sushi and teppanyaki, plus soups and desserts. 1836 Abbey Rd. 973-1585. $. Kuma Sushi Noodle & Bar Pan-Asian restaurant and karaoke bar. 12 Elliewood Ave. 328-2741. $. Kung Fu Tea Authentic bubble teas, plus dumplings, buns, and tarts. 1001 W. Main St. 2028844. $. Kyoto A mix of Japanese and Chinese meals— teppanyaki to bento boxes. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 923-8889. $. Lemongrass Vietnam meets Thailand. Veggie options and delivery, too. 104 14th St. NW. 244THAI. $$. Lime Leaf Thai The serene dining room is a tad more upscale than the average Thai place. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 245-8884. $/$$.

52 Knife&Fork Winter

Oriental Express Chinese standards plus sushi. 3440 Seminole Trail, Suite 107. 974-9988. $. Pad Thai Homestyle Thai cooking from an experienced chef. 156 Carlton Rd. 293-4032. $$. Peter Chang China Grill Authentic Sichuan cuisine by a renowned chef. Barracks Road Shopping Center North Wing. 244-9818. $$. Pho 3 Pho Authentic Vietnamese pho. Rivanna Plaza. 422-8975. $$. Poke Sushi Bowl Hawaiian-inspired poke chain. 101 14th St. NW, 328-8833; Barracks Road Shopping Center, 284-5466. $. Red Lantern Chinese cuisine by the pint or the quart. 221 Carlton Rd. 979-9968. $. Sakura Japanese Steak and Seafood Great teppanyaki seafood and Japanese-style steaks. Hollymead Town Center. 872-0099. $$/$$$. Shun Xing Szechuan, Hunan, and Cantonesestyle dishes. Forest Lakes Shopping Center. 9749888. $.

Thai Cuisine & Noodle House Traditional Thai food, noodle dishes, and vegetarian specials. 2005 Commonwealth Dr. 974-1326. $$. Thai Fresh Thai take-out with great prices. 106 Fifth St. SE. 249-5291. $. Tokyo Rose Long-standing landmark serves sushi and sashimi. 2171 Ivy Rd. 296-3366. $$. Urban Bowl Noodle soups and rice bowls. 112 W. Main St, Suite 6. 984-0095. $. Vu Noodles Four kinds of homemade noodle bowls from a take-out window. 110 Second St. NW; 233 Fourth St. NW., In the Jefferson School Center. 422-0510. $. Yuan Ho Specializing in take-out and delivery. 117 Maury Ave. 977-7878. $.

Bakeries Albemarle Baking Company Get your ABCs of baked goods here. 418 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 293-6456. $. BreadWorks Breads, desserts, and deli. Preston Plaza, 296-4663; 2955 Ivy Rd., 220-4575. $. Carpe Donut Artisinal donuts, hot beverages, and locally brewed kombucha. McIntire Plaza. 2022918. $. Chandler’s Bakery Cakes for any occasion, plus cookies and brownies, old-school style. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 975-2253. $.

can’t decide). 119 Fourth St. NE., 977-0443; 1518 E. High St., 984-0555. $.

Beer Run Massive tap and packaged beer offerings, killer nachos, three meals daily. 156 Carlton Rd., 984-2337. $$. The Biltmore Large portions and a popular drinking scene. 16 Elliewood Ave. 202-1498. $. BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse American fare, pizza, craft beer. 3924 Lenox Ave. 422-5170. $$. Blue Tavern & Sports Bar Food offerings include 55 flavors of chicken wings. 8315 Seminole Trail, Ruckersville. 985-3633. $$. Coupe’s Pub food, popular late-night scene. 9 Elliewood Ave. 282-2141. $. Double Horseshoe Saloon Shot-and-a-beer joint with American food, billiards, and occasional live music. 1522 E. High St. 202-8714. $. Draft Taproom Sixty self-serve taps with a diverse selection of craft beers. 425 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 422-5901. $. Fardowners Restaurant Local ingredients liven up pub fare like sliders and sandwiches. 5773 The Square, Crozet. 823-1300. $/$$. Firefly Craft beer, burgers, salads, vegetarianfriendly menu, arcade games, trivia night. 1304 E. Market St. 202-1050. $. Glass Half Full Taproom “The bar next door,” inside Alamo Drafthouse Cinema. 5th Street Station. 326-5056. $. Joe’s Pool Hall & Sports Bar Pool, darts, poker, and ’cue. Scottsville Shopping Center, Scottsville. 286-7665. $.

Cocoa & Spice Handcrafted chocolates and confections. 112 W. Main St., York Place, Downtown Mall. 326-5978. 326-5978. $.

Kardinal Hall Bocce and beer garden, housemade brats, sports on many TVs, beer-hall vibe. 722 Preston Ave. 295-4255. $.

Crust & Crumb Bakery Fresh-baked bread and pastry specials, plus a light menu. 1671 W. River Rd., Scottsville. 960-4444. $.

The Livery Stable Hole-in-the-wall (er, basement) spot downtown. 120 Old Preston Ave. 202-2088. $/$$.

Duck Donuts Outer Banks made-to-order donut spot. The Shops at Stonefield. 823-1960. $.

Lost Saint Basement cocktail bar in Tavern & Grocery managed by master bartender Billy Koenig. 333 W. Main St. 293-7403. $.

Found Market Co. Bakehouse and mercantile specializing in cookies; eat there or take dough to bake your own. 221 Carlton Rd., Suite 2. $$. Great Harvest Bread Company Sandwiches, sweets, and bread baked from scratch every day. McIntire Plaza. 202-7813. $. Insomnia Cookies Warm, fresh-baked cookies for those late-night cravings. 1409 University Ave. 205-3513. $.

Silk Thai Authentic Thai in a cozy house setting. 2210 Fontaine Ave. 977-8424. $.

MarieBette Café & Bakery French pastries for breakfast, more pastries (and a dine-in menu) for lunch. 700 Rose Hill Dr. 529-6118. $.

Taiwan Garden Basic assortment of Chinese fare in basic surroundings. 2171 Ivy Rd. 295-0081. $.

Moon Maiden’s Delights From-scratch vegan and gluten-free pastries. York Place, Downtown Mall. 995-9233. $.

Tara Thai Serves up affordable Thai faves, with multiple meat, fish, and veggie options. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 984-9998. $$.

Petite MarieBette MarieBette’s little sister— French pastries and a dine-in menu for breakfast and lunch. 105 E. Water St. 284-8903. $.

Taste of China Chinese favorites on 29N. Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 975-6688. $$.

The Pie Chest Homemade breakfast and hand pies, plus by-the-slice options (for those who

Miller’s A classic Downtown bar with pub grub and live music every night. 109 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 971-8511. $$. Mountain Grill Farm-to-table at Carter Mountain Orchard. 1435 Carters Mountain Trail. 9771833. $$. Mountainside Grille Everything from Cobb salad to peanut butter and chocolate chip pie. 375 Four Leaf Ln., Crozet. 823-7080. $$. Peloton Station Superb sandwiches and other casual fare, craft beers and local wines on tap, served in a former classic car sales and service station. Restaurant shares space with a bicycle repair shop. 2019 Best of C-VILLE runner-up for Best New Restaurant. 114 10th St. NW, 2847785 $. The Pub by Wegmans Pub fare for lunch and dinner. 100 Wegmans Way. 529-3265. $$. Rapture Contemporary American with soulful accents, weekend brunch, purple pool tables,