The Vino Voice

BY RICK RIOZZA IDEAL ITALIAN FOR THE HOLIDAYS

For a California wine column coming out of the West Coast, we surely have covered and reviewed a lot of European vino these past eight years or so. We’ve done our fair share of French, special vintages from Spain, proper dessert wines from Portugal, and especially some ideal Italian wines from the motherland of all vineyards.

In the midst of one of the most anxious years on record, if there is anything we can rely on—gastronomically speaking, it’s the quality of Italian wine to match a meal. And it’s an easy one to recommend to an appreciative crowd. It’s not the case where I have to plead with folks to try That area alone in central Italy draws millions of Italian these days. (By the way—in a couple of visitors to immerse themselves in the region’s weeks I’ll be reviewing Chilean wines; I may have alluring lifestyle, food & vino. How fortunate I’ve to be a bit more convincing on those bottles.) been to travel to Italy for the last two years. This

Even though we’ve been quarantined for year we’re all feeling the lack of travel anywhere! many months now, the holidays are here upon Well—at least we can all drink like the us—as odd as everything feels. Wine wise, toscani! Of course, there is so much great, good we’ll probably be drinking California, Oregon, & tasty red wine from Tuscany, all we can do is Washington, French and German . . . and—oh! pick out some to speak of: Italian! As the title suggests! Many of you true vino cognoscenti know

So Italian it is. We’ll talk about a delicious that a “Rosso” on a DOC or DOCG Italian label Pinot Grigio from Friuli—Venezia Giulia, and then tells you that one can get a great deal on a red on to probably your favorite Italian destination: wine from classic region. No need to pay the high Tuscany. prices when you wish for a table wine to meet

There are so many Pinot Grigio lovers in this expectations reflecting the fame vineyard area. valley that, at Ralphs Market, I have to order Attenzione! Montecucco, is a rising star over 100 labels to keep the shelves filled each in the Tuscan wine game with a “new and and every week. Although I don’t generally reach different” expression of Sangiovese that comes a pinot grige—too many are one-note quaffs, from an area of the famous Maremma region, especially the cheap domestics, a bona fide nestled between the Brunello di Montalcino and Italian from Friuli is a wine all vino lovers must try Morellino di Scansano appellations. i.e., it’s a bucket list region for enthusiasts. Available now is the very good vintage

And since there’s so many of you out there, year, 2015 Le Maciarine Montecucco Rosso. allow me to recommend Attems Pinot Grigio At $20, this is one of the best buys for a quality ($17). If you haven’t heard already, the Friuli Sangiovese. We mentioned the “new and DOC region, in the most northern-eastern of different” expression above—and I guess, it Italy, produces the most crisp, lean, and aromatic means that this Sangiovese is on deep dark fruits, of the Italian white wines. It’s the limestone/ spice, and is on the softer side: Not predominant soils in the hills, temperature fluctuation of the on the acidity, with aromas of black cherries, region, and that particular sunlight that gives its raisins, light chocolate and licorice with a palate terroir especial uniqueness. Indeed the rest of of red and black cherries, plums, pencil lead, and Italy—and the world, try to emulate such distinct chocolate; finishes nicely with a mineral edge. dynamics in a wine. It’s bigger brother, the 2015 Le Maciarin

Attems is the classic Friuli pinot grige: The Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva, around $35, wine’s bouquet is marked by fresh aromas of absolutely knocked our socks off! As soon as white peach and citrus peel, with wildflowers, we took in the aromas, it brought us back to the scents of sap, thyme and toasted bread. The times sitting at an Italian restaurant enjoying palate shows fresh pears and green melon with high-end wine. And the flavors sealed the deal. shades of white pepper, avocado, and nuts. Top quality Sangiovese with deep dark fruits, Nice minerality and a touch of bitter lemon on spices, and perfect food pairing acidity. I look the finish. Quality-wise, it has great weight & forward to ordering this wine on-line for the viscosity, it’s tangy & lively. How about that for holidays. a bottle of pinot! And finally, let’s go back a wine brand that

You know—this bottle would be such a great we’ve covered and reviewed before. La Vite surprise at the holiday table: nay-sayers will be Lucente 2017 Tenuta Luce Toscana ($30) Tenuta converted and grige lovers will be enthralled! Luce is based in Montalcino, the famous area of Also, it’s a very thoughtful holiday gift for the Tuscany. Lucente is Luce’s second wine. It’s the Pinot Grigio fan in your family circle. result of a selection of Sangiovese and Merlot

Apart from turkey and all the fixins’, another grapes capable of producing a wine with a very great food pairing could see pan-seared salmon contemporary style, i.e., California red blend fillets served over a bed of fennel, fronds and quaffers like this Italian a lot. orange segments that have been gently tossed in The wine is a beautiful holiday bright red a citrus vinaigrette. All of those fine flavors would color, the nose opens with intense fruity hints match magically with the wine! Unfortunately, of blackberry, plum and currant, enriched by it’s not sold all over—so look for it on-line and toasted and vanilla nuances. On the palate it is get some sent to you & yours asap! full and enveloping, soft and elegant, with a nice

What can one say about the wines of Tuscany? fruity finish—allora! Saluti!