*DFMBOE .BZ
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WHY ICELAND? Gullfoss
Snaefellsnes Peninsula
是從小以來的心願。 小時候看過關於冰島的電視節目，對 形與蒼涼大地總是念念不忘。
的奇特地
個位處世界邊
陲，面積約台灣三倍，人口卻只有三十多萬的國 家擁有無限多的大自然，獨特的生活態度，及盛 產不少音樂型人。終於，有機會親身認識
I first learnt about Iceland as a kid in TV and was impressed by its peculiar landforms. As a remote island with just over 300,000 people, this place offers unprecedented natural beauty, unique lifestyle and a distinctive music scene. Visiting Iceland has long been on my wish list and this is a record of my dream came true.
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THE ROUTE Hitting the road to Gullfoss
2014年5月5至15日 | 第二至第九日自駕遊 | 共駕駛了約2,300公里 5-15 May 2014 | Self-driving from Day 2 to Day 9 | Drove approximately 2,300km. 4
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REYKJAVIK Hallgrimskirkja
冰島首都叫「雷克雅未克」。非常陌生亦難 記。意思是「煙霧的海灣」。 雖然居住了近全國一半人口，但市中心區非 常袖珍，徒步一兩小時已走完。喜歡 有大型連鎖品
，就連老麥
裡沒
廳也看不見。
Reykjavik (Bay of smoke) is the capital of Iceland. I did struggle to spell and pronounce this name.
Sólfar
Although it was the home of nearly half of the country’s population, the city center was rather compact and could be strolled around in 1 to 2 hours. My favorite part of this city was the absence of global chain stores.
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從全市最高的建築物 Hallgrimskirkja 教堂上遠眺 View from the city’s tallest building Hallgrimskirkja Church
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Harpa 是雷克雅未克的新地標。六角形的玻 璃窗與天花鏡子令室內變得非常迷幻，正好 與冰島「盛產」的六角柱岩石互相呼應。 Harpa was a new landmark in Reykjavik. The atmosphere inside was quite bizarre amid hexagonal windows and ceiling mirrors, alluding to the abundant hexagonal rock columns found throughout the country.
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HITTING THE ROAD Borgarnes
國道一號全長1,332公里。 The Route 1 Ring Road is 1,332km in length.
八天路程主要都走在鋪了柏油的環島一號國道上。 在高速行走中欣賞杳無人煙的大自然景色，非常爽 快之餘，也特別為當地人要戰勝惡劣生存環境的決 心而感動。要知道冰島一年中有一半或以上時間是 冰封或面對夜長日短的日子。而往往一條延綿數百 公里的道路其實只為不到一千甚至數十的居民而 設，沒有承擔與決心是
對辦不到的。
While steering my rented car and savoring the magnificent views along the paved roads, I was impressed by the determination of Icelanders to link up the people. Amid freezing weather and short daylight for nearly half of a year, they still managed to build and keep perfect roads just to link up, in many cases, villages with several dozen people. This could only be done with unrelenting persistence.
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WATER Hofs贸s swimming pool
Blue Lagoon 受南來潮濕的海洋暖流影響，冰島雨水充 足，並匯聚成數之不盡的瀑布、河流和湖 泊。 而當水遇上地熱，便成為
多遊客慕名
而來的地熱溫泉。 不過，我最喜愛的還是每個大小城鎮的公 暖水泳池。入場費便宜之餘，亦可與當地人 一起暢泳。
The wet and warm ocean currents from the south bring plentiful rainfall to fill up countless waterfalls, rivers and lakes in Iceland. And when water meets geothermal heat, they become the most tourist-alluring hot springs. Nevertheless, my favorite water attraction were the public swimming pools found in major towns with low entrance fees and a scent of local lifestyle.
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Gullfoss
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Gullfoss
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Hofs贸s
Godafoss
Dettifoss
Myvatn Nature Bath 19
Skogarfoss
Svartisfoss
Seljalandsfoss
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FIRE Hverir, Myvatn area
Hverfell, Myvatn area
冰島位處兩大地殻板塊之間，火山活動非常活 躍。島上遍
火山、噴泉、地熱谷、還有形狀奇
特的山峰和岩石，如同置身火星。而受惠於火山 活動，全國有26%電力均來自地熱。
Lying between two tectonic plates, there are massive amount of volcanic activities in Iceland. I could see a whole collection of curious landforms related to volcanism and reckoned if I was actually on another planet. The blessing was 26% of the electricity was generated by geothermal power.
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Geysir
Fjords, Eastern Iceland
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Reynisfjara
Hofs贸s
Kirkujubaejarklaustur 24
Dimmuborgir, Myvatn area
Krafla Geothermal Power Station, Myvatn area
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Hverir, Myvatn area
Lava cave, Flj贸tstunga
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ICE Jรถkulsรกrlรณn
在冰島看見冰和雪，似乎很理所當然。 亦如想像一樣，島 上有無數冰川和雪山。較著名的景點是東南部的冰川湖 Jökulsárlón。湖面上浮動著大小不一，呈藍色的浮冰。除 遊客外，亦吸引不少野生雀鳥和海
覓食。出乎意料的是冰
島完全不在北極圈內，還受著海洋暖流影響，氣候比其他北 歐國家溫和。 Yes, it is totally logical to expect much snow and ice in Iceland. And yes, I saw several glaciers and snow mountains. A famous spot was Jökulsárlón in the southeast – a glacier lagoon filled with little blue icebergs and circled by tourists. Surprisingly, the country is actually outside the arctic circle and under the influence of warm ocean currents. The average temperature is thus always higher than other northern countries.
Skaftafell 28
Snaefellsjรถkull volcano
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Jรถkulsรกrlรณn 30
Jรถkulsรกrlรณn
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Skaftafell Glacier Walk
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EMPTINESS Walking to S贸lheimasandur Plane Wreck
Dyrhólaey
冰島除了壯觀的冰山大川和悠閒的城鎮外，其餘 九成面積可能是「空白」的。沒有人，沒有動 物，甚至連植物都沒有。荒涼得猶如異境般不現 實，令人著迷。
Apart from scenic spots and human settlements, 90% of Iceland was perhaps completely empty. This unique and intriguing emptiness was defined by no people, animals and even a single blade of grass.
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Reynisfjara
ﾃ《byrgi canyon
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十八世紀的一場火山爆發令 Eldhraun 完全被有毒溶岩覆蓋。達五百多平方 公里的土地一直寸草不生，數百年只 長出了薄薄的一層苔蘚。 A massive volcanic eruption in the 18th century covered Eldhraun with toxic lava. Since then, an area of more than 500 sq. km was devoid of living things except a thin layer of mosses.
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一架美軍飛機於1973年墜落於 Sólheimasandur 的黑色荒 漠上。自此殘骸永遠點綴著蒼涼大地。要探訪它可駕駛四 驅車離開大路在黑沙上向南走三公里。否則可像我沿前人 足跡步行共個半小時。 In 1973, a US navy plane crashed on the black desert at Sólheimasandur. The wreck stayed there ever since literally in the middle of nowhere. With a 4WD, one could leave the main road and drive 3 km southward on the sand for a visit. Alternatively, I walked in total 1.5 hours on the black.
63˚27’34.3”N 19˚21’52.6”W
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PEOPLE Víðgelmir Lava Cave Fljótstunga
除了在大城鎮，要遇到冰島人並不容易。接觸過的當 地人不算特別熱情。他們基本上都很友善和樂意幫 忙，但臉上總會有一種冷酷和距離感。或許
是在寒
冷氣候下生活的共同特性。 All the local Icelanders I have met were perhaps not the most cheerful people. They were certainly helpful and friendly but somehow I felt a kind of ‘coldness’ and distance from them. Would this be a common trait for the people in the cold countries?
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Fljótstunga 的農場主人除了經營農場和旅舍外，還擁有一個承繼 了三代的溶岩洞。岩洞有紐約帝國大廈那樣大，洞口有一大閘， 只有他才有鎖鑰帶你進內參觀。他在洞內最喜歡的活動是關掉所 有的手電筒，在一片漆黑死寂的環境中靜聽自己的心跳聲。 This guy not only run a farm and hostel at Fljótstunga but also owned a lava cave inherited through three generations. Only he had the key to unlock the gate at the cave entrance to let you have a visit. His favorite activity in the cave was to switch off all torch lights and listen to his own heartbeats in complete silence and darkness.
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冰島人有
製鯊魚的食文化。
是島上為數不多的
製工
場，也是博物館。他是館長的兒子，也是唯一職員。候氣暖 化把鯊魚推到離岸更遠的水域，他的小漁船再捕不到鯊魚， 只可依賴其他遠航漁船偶爾送來的捕獲品。此博物館地處偏 僻，大多數時間沒有訪客，玩手機似乎是他的唯一娛樂。 Fermented shark meat is a traditional food in Iceland. This museum and workshop was one of the remaining places producing this delicacy. The guy was the son of the museum owner and the only staff there. Global warming has displaced the sharks to farther waters which made shark fishing impossible for him except relying on occasional catches from larger boats. In this remote museum with few visitors, playing with his Smartphone appeared to be the best pastime.
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很有性格的冰川導遊。
不是不友善，只是
有點「串」和愛理不理。若有問題，
都會
很耐心和專業的解答。不過你總覺得
永遠
與你保持一種距離，實際上可能是外冷內熱 的。 A glacier guide with strong personality. She was overall friendly but at certain times, a bit cocky and indifferent. She would answer all your questions with patience and professionalism. Yet, a certain ‘coolness’ could be noticed though she could be actually warm at heart.
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他是旅居冰島的英國人。08年金融危機前 是位建築師。經濟衰退後轉為創立自己的 手作帆布袋生意。與他一邊傾談，一邊見 證著成品的誕生。從店裡的自來
談起，
說到他最喜歡的工作環境，便是一邊看著 窗外的飄雪，一邊在
小小的工作室工作
至夜深。愉快的個多小時，不一樣的購物 經歷。
This Englishman was originally working as an architect in Iceland before the financial crisis. After the recession, he started up his own canvas goods business and sewed up every piece with hands. We chatted from the cat intruder in his shop to his favorite working environment in which he loved to work late at night in his workshop while seeing falling snow outside the window. An inspiring hour long conversation spiced up the shopping experience.
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ANIMALS Puffin plush toy Reykjavik
冰島不乏野生動物。鳥類，馬，
雖說每年春夏期間冰島上有數百萬隻海鸚，可惜環遊全島一周 後仍然找不到 如願。
們的踪影。到最後要回到首都參加觀鳥團才能
們體型細小，可以長期在水上生活，直至
殖期才到
近岸處築巢。他們不善長飛行，反而在水中可自如地捕獵小 魚。顏色鮮豔的啄可一次過
存十多條魚
飼幼鳥。
From April to August, there are millions of Puffins breeding along the Icelandic coats. Yet, I failed to see any around the island until I joined a local tour back in Reykjavik. They are small birds living most of the time on seas until they are ready to breed and lay eggs on coasts. Not good at flying, they are instead strong divers. Their beaks can store up to a dozen of fish to feed their chicks. 46
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Arnarstapi
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Whale watching at Húsavík
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MORE AROUND ICELAND Stykkish贸lmur
Blue Lagoon
冰島人自公元930年便在 Þingvellir 聚集 商討國事，是世界上第一個國會。 Icelanders started to assemble at Þingvellir from AD 930 to discuss about national affairs. It is the first parliament in the world. Þingvellir
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Flj贸tstunga Travel Farm
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Hraunfossar
Grundarfjรถrรฐur Arnarstapi
Svรถrtuloft bird cliffs
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ﾃ《byrgi
Siglufjﾃｶrﾃｰur
Akureyri, second largest city in Iceland
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Stykkish贸lmur
Selfoss
Reykholt
Hverir, Myvatn area 58
Haganesvik
Eastern Fjords
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Seydisfjรถrรฐur
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TRAVEL TIPS Downtown Hostel Reykjavik
不用兌換現金。任何東西也可以信用卡付款。 No $ exchange. You can pay everything cashlessly
租車 Car Rental www.bluecarrental.is
飛冰島最便宜的航空公司 Cheapest airline to Iceland www.easyjet.com
住宿推薦 Great place to stay 37 Apartments, Akureyri http://youtu.be/91OSkOtwn70
住宿推薦 Great place to stay Fljótstunga Travel Farm www.fljotstunga.is
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Road conditions: www.vegagerdin.is/english Weather: www.vedur.is How to drive in Iceland: http://ww2.us.is/node/1027 Road guide: http://www.icelandroadguide.com/ Gas station: www.n1.is
Keflavik airport Youth hostels in Iceland: www.hostel.is Going to the S贸lheimasandur plane wreck: http://tinyurl.com/qcshnzm Bjarnarh枚fn Shark Museum: http://www.bjarnarhofn.is/ Whale Watching: http://www.northsailing.is/ Glacier Walk: www.mountainguides.is Pocket wifi rental: http://iceland.trawire.com/ 63
假如我在冰島生活 跟我們的城市相比，冰島的確是另一個星球。在全球一體化下
依然自我，生活都「留白」。
若果我在冰島生活，可能是：趁週末前到最就近城市唯一的超級市場購物，然後在平坦的柏油路上驅車兩小時回家。 平均時速一百公里，沿途雖然看不見一個人，但可欣賞地熱谷的杳杳輕煙、沒有盡頭的髮夾彎、又或雙層巴士般高的雪牆。正看得入神 之際，竟然錯過了公路出口而要掉頭。那一刻不知從那裏掉下來的一輛對頭車示意是否需要幫忙。我閃一閃車燈答謝後繼續走，對方也 好像從來沒出現過的在反方向路上消失了。 寧靜的下午回到自己的小村落，街上沒有一個人。若果不是那小孩子追著小狗奪門而出，村民彷彿都消失了。回家弄個 到街上還是陽光普照，夏日的時間總像用不完。走進村內唯一的酒吧，發現熟悉的面孔都在
裏。就
飯，七點多走
樣簡單的過了一天。
If I live in Iceland... I may need to drive two hours on a paved highway to the nearest town for my weekly grocery before the supermarket closes during weekend. While mesmerized by the magnificent views of steaming valleys, deep fjords or snow walls through the windshield, I have just gone into the wrong path and need a U-turn. At this time, a rare sight of another car pulls up and signals if I need any help. I flash my headlights back to say thanks, and then continue on the correct route. The counterpart driver moves on too and vanishes in the opposite direction. Back to my own village in the afternoon, there is nobody in the streets. If not the boy has dashed out from his door after his puppy, there are literally no happenings in the whole village. At 7 pm, the sun is still high up in the sky when I start to prepare my dinner. In summers, unlimited daylight is guaranteed. I go to the only bar after meal to meet all the familiar faces. What a typical day! Do you fancy? Or still prefer a more hectic life?
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Grundarfjรถrรฐur
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