CONCEPT STORE
DAAD DANTONE EVOLUTION THE BRAND SKILLS
GIULIO DI SABATO SARI SPAZIO
THE CONCEPT STORE DAAD DANTONE CONCEPT STORE AMBIENCE, AESTHETICS AND REFERENCES CONCEPT DESIGNERS FURTHER DEVELOPMENT
DAAD DANTONE is a multi-brand based in Milan, with more than 50 years of history and experience. It is the result of the transformation of a family-run tailoring business located in Piazza San Carlo, awarded the “LE FORBICI D’ORO” (Golden Scissors), a prestigious and coveted prize for “Made in Italy” products, in a top-level concept store offering a choice selection of profoundly innovative international designers. It is acknowledged worldwide as a unique place, where new ways of creating fashion can be discovered thanks to the sophisticated, diligent and tireless research work of Giorgio Dantone. DAAD Dantone is still one of the most interesting and leading design incubators, in which hugely talented emerging designers have studied and grown, many of whom have become designers and brands that are now internationally renowned and appreciated across the world.
EVOLUTION Giorgio Dantone is an elegant, sophisticated man, who keeps an eye on the future and on the constant evolution of fashion and the market, always one step ahead in spotting the new trend in the fashion world. He was one of the first to offer the unstructured fashion of Giorgio Armani in the late 1970s and the collection with which two young designers, unknown at the time, made their debut: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, today known globally for their Dolce & Gabbana brand. Giorgio Dantone’s research was then expanded by exploring those designers who, in the 1980s, were able to radically innovate clothing styles and to conceive fashion and its space, such as Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto and many others, with which a selected, demanding and international client base began to get acquainted, thanks to DAAD DANTONE.
Clients at DAAD Dantone were, therefore, the first to dress in Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Les Hommes, and Kriss Van Assche, discovering Belgian design and later the “Japanese� one that Giorgio Dantone, always paying attention to the evolution of fashion, society and the market, began to offer at his store in Milan, where Number Nine, Mastermind, Junya Watanabe, Issey Miyake, Undercover, L.G.B., If Six Was Nine, and many others. Today in his new concept store, and preceding everyone by a few years, Giorgio Dantone has began to include Chinese designers such as Uma Wang, Jun Li and Ziggy Chen. They come from a rapidly evolving geographical area whose energy is extremely useful in order to guess the new directions that society and customs will take.
Giorgio Dantone has transformed DAAD Dantone into an innovative and modern company, a kind of landmark in the complex and evolving fashion scene for anyone who wants to guess the new trends and dress in a contemporary way. With its 50 years of experience, DAAD Dantone has grown gradually but continuously thanks to its great skills but also thanks to a remarkable sixth sense, inherited from his father, for discovering anything new and innovative, always remaining strictly consistent with his concept of fashion. The need for an increasingly larger space to present innovations, no longer and not only in fashion but also in style, design and beauty, have led Giorgio Dantone starting to imagine a new and larger DAAD Dantone Global Store in Milan.
Dolce&Gabbana
Giorgio Armani
Maison Martin Margiela
Yohji Yamamoto
Undercover
Jean Paul Gaultier
Rick Owens
DAAD Dantone’s success is due to its strong and unique aesthetic identity, which comes from constantly seeking new points of view and original perspectives to interpret, create and communicate fashion and its designers. The tailoring heritage of Giorgio Dantone allows for both structural and semantic innovations in the way an item of clothing and contemporary luxury are designed and created, consistently choosing original collections and new designers that are often destined to become successful international brands. Over the years, this intense and continuous research has shaped the strong identity of the brand and the interest of design schools, including the Istituto Marangoni, the Royal College of Art and the Accademia del Lusso, where students have focused their attention on DAAD Dantone.
SKILLS Fifty years of activity in the world of fashion and retail, remarkable product know-how, a large number of partnerships and, recently, a digital background that includes brand communication through the institutional website but also through social networks, blogs and the structuring of an e-commerce service with the relative logistics: these are the key elements that ensure an absolutely exclusive shopping experience that is increasingly appreciated by an ever-growing international client base.
DAAD Dantone has always conceived and created fashion in a very different way when compared to the traditional system, which, today, are perceived as unable to keep up with the evolution of society, customs and the market. As stated by a well-known journalist in the sector, Lidewij Edelkoort: “This is the end of a system called fashion and we will have to invent new ideas.” In fact, instead of offers brands, DAAD Dantone offers ideas. DAAD Dantone is inspired by the clothing styles of various designers and combines them to offer unique and innovative products, thus providing, through research, its own concept of fashion.
DAAD Dantone ha da sempre concepito e proposto la moda in modo molto diverso dai sistemi tradizionali, ritenuti ormai incapaci di seguire l’evoluzione della società, del costume e del mercato. Come afferma un’importante giornalista del settore, Lidewij Edelkoort: “Questa è la fine di un sistema chiamato moda e dovremo inventare nuove idee” Infatti, invece di proporre marchi, DAAD Dantone propone idee. DAAD Dantone acquisisce il modo di vestire dei vari designer, li unisce fra loro rendendolo unico e innovativo proponendo, attraverso la ricerca, la propria visione della moda.
Rick Owens Milano
GIULIO DI SABATO After having first studied Economics at the Columbia University in New York, Giulio Di Sabato graduates in Economics and Political Sciences at Western State University, in Colorado, USA in 1984. After his return to Italy in 1989, he establishes Sari Spazio Fashion Showroom, which today is one of the most prominent showrooms in Milan’s fashion scene, representing a wide portfolio of exclusive Italian and international brands. In 2005, he is elected President of Assomoda, the most prominent Association of Italian Agents and Distributors in Fashion. In 2011, Giulio Di Sabato becomes speaker and ambassador at Sino-Italian Fashion Forum in Beijing, organized by the China Fashion Association and China Fashion Week and the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. At the end of 2012 he opens his new showroom in Milan. In 2016, Giulio Di Sabato is re-elected for the third consecutive mandate as President of Assomoda Italy. He participates at Fashion Futurum Conference in Moscow held during the Russian Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and during the Mercedes-Benz China Fashion Week, he signs a 5 year agreement with Show Town, a Beijingbased company, for the promotion of the new Italian designers. His professional career, now thirty years old leads him, from 2016, to an intermediate brokerage for the development of licenses, and the consequent distribution, for important fashion brand. He is the founder, in this regard, of the new “GDS GROUP” company which, starting from 2017, offers its own advice to important fashion groups at international level. 2017 is characterized by his return to China, by the development of new important projects and investments in Dubai and in the Persian Gulf countries, as well as the year of Korea and Japan. He also starts a new cooperation with the presidentship of Assocalzaturifici, Mipel, and Mifur in order to create new representation and distribution synergies with the agents and distributors enrolled as members of Assomoda, and, last but not least, 2017 is the year of consolidation and continuous development of those relations established in many years of hard work and gained experience.
In 2018, always attentive to market trends, he extend its range of action to the African continent where he begins to establish working relationships with the most important retailer in the fashion world; expansion activities continue in the Russian and Eastern European markets and the expansion of the business in China, with the consolidation of business relationships throughout Asia. In 2019 he becomes Ambassador of “Fashion for Peace”, an organization that deals with the development of work in Africa: his contribution is to encourage the development of the fashion sector in the various African countries giving the opportunity to the new generations to join a working context which, thanks to globalization, can offer concrete development opportunities for the young people of this continent. In the same year he becomes a vice president of FNAARC, the most important Italian organization of sales agents. In 2020 he is one of the promoter of “Best Showroom”, the Association that gathers around it the best Milan and Italian showrooms to promote the work of the small and medium fashion brands and the Made in Italy. In May, he is awarded as Knight with the “Order of Merit of the Italian Republic” by the President of the Republic Mattarella.
SARI SPAZIO Established in 1989, Sari Spazio is one of the most important Milan fashion showroom, dedicated to distribution within its geographical areas of expertise (Eastern Europe and Middle and Far East and Africa) the company seeks out and forges commercial relations with major fashion department stores and retailers within these regions and assists the brands in the opening of their flagship stores, shop-in-shops, and corners. The showroom consists in a three floor multi purpose building, with a total area of 2000 m2. Sari Spazio is conveniently located in Via Cevedale 5/A; the new space accommodates “Artgate” (a project created in collaboration with Mazzotta Foundation) along with a restaurant and a bar always at disposal of the showroom’s clients.
THE CONCEPT DAAD DANTONE ASIA CONCEPT DAAD DANTONE AMBIENCE, AESTHETICS AND REFERENCES CONCEPT DESIGENRS CELEBRITIES WEARING DAAD DANTONE’S DESIGNERS
DAAD DANTONE CONCEPT STORE Daad Dantone is a Milan famous multibrand shop in Via Santo Spirito, between Via della Spiga and Via Montenapoleone, the most exclusive shopping area in Milan. The brand aims to explore ways of being, wearing clothes and living the city. Together with the fashion industry, Daad Dantone expand its offering towards a wide range of upmost innovative selection of brands combined with some famous ones. This selection has been cherrypicked among those brands which made their distinctive features contemporary and that’s what we all call it Style. Together with a selection of innovative garments, the new Daad Dantone’s shop will also welcome accessories, fragrances, body care solutions, design pieces, food and beverage selection. They will all represent Italian taste and aesthetics. Daad Dantone’s identity is the result of a never ending research and meticulous selection of garments taken from innovative yet consolidated brands in which Giorgio Dantone sees their potentials in the designs, materials, compositional variaty. These contemporary and distinctive features belong to Daad Dantone’s idea of the world and its aesthetics.
That’s why Daad Dantone is expressed within a fluid as well as constantly changing space constantly evolving and influencing each other. The Daad Dantone’s concept, which will welcome some of the brands designed set ups, will have temporary as well as seasonal set ups and their area will not be bounded by any architectural element. The concept envisages a car park area. Some “magnets” are included as part of the project to attract more clients: a restaurant, a designated area for runaway shows and events, a lounge and a tailor’s shop. These two have been conceived to meet the needs of the top exclusive clientele. Premiere clients do require more privacy when shopping. Dantone’s concept includes more than 100 brands which will be selected both by Giulio Di Sabato and Giorgio Dantone. Clients are more likely to get to this floor from the ground floor as well as the top floor; shopping is only one of the reasons clients find themselves on the top floor.
The area next to the main entrance represents the concept’s business card. It’s where clients are directly involved the most. The utmost significant Daad Dantone’s world elements are here: The clothing and accessories shopping activity, a great entrance hall, a bar among showcases and temporary shops. Daad Dantone will seasonally welcome those brands that are already well established – with their own concept and shops - but they still don’t break the mould in China. Not only does the “temporary” nature of this environments match with Daad Dantone’s inner concept, but it would also lead these brands to open their monobrand shops around the area which may be managed by Daad Dantone themselves. This will create a real “quartier” where passersby will get in contact with the upcoming fashion trends and the whole area will receive a dramatic boost in sales.
AMBIENCE, AESTHETICS AND REFERENCES Development of a coherent concept that may include all or some of the following activities:
FASHION FOOD CATWALK ART DESIGN OLFACTORY
FASHION:
3RD FLOOR:
STORE, WINDOWS AND CATWALK SEASONALAND CORNERS ART EXHIBITION
FARSI DARE FOTO IN ALTA DI SHOW ROOM E NEGOZI IN SPAZI INDUSTRIALI
FOOD:
RESTAURANT AND KITCHEN CON-
FASHION:
CATWALK AND ART EXHIBITION
DESIGN:
STORE AND EXHIBITION
OLFACTORY: STORE AND LAB
Uma Wang and DAAD Dantone Profumo
CONCEPT DESIGNERS
10SEI0OTTO # Tiziano Rillo
10SEI0OTTO (DIECISEIZEROOTTO) is the fruitful encounter between Paolo Barelli and Tiziano Rillo, the former being an absolute expert in the leather industry, the second a creative and passionate designer particularly cut for leather outfits. Special treatments and unique finishing are a must for 10SEI0OTTO. The aim of the brand is to fulfill the needs of an evolved and ever changing market, focusing on high level standards, on high quality products as well as on new artisanal approaches: that’s the reason why every 10SEI0OTTO’s garment is endlessly cared of any single detail according to the long settled traditions of Made in Italy. Elegance and informal is a mixture 10SEI0OTTO believes to be overlapped and skillfully balanced, the brand thus prides itself to dress people who dare to experiment and who are open to different life perspectives. 10SEI0OTTO’s clothing means limitless research in the use of materials and unprecedented fitting, alongside exclusive outfits through stretching leathers, metallic and cotton leathers, sheepskin coats with lasered insides, or light and thin leathers matched with linen, silk, cottons. This is 10SEI0OTTO’s philosophy. An avant-garde primitivism, the infinite pursuit of primary values.
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Edoardo Iannuzzi and Gio Giacobbe
“We are on a mission to improve the conditions of the planet and the people through a green point of view and technological innovations in the fashion and the sportswear industry.” Sustainable Ingredients ACBC Sneakers are designed to achieve circularity and lowest possible carbon footprint using two fundamental elements: The Zipshoe™ patented technology and Eco Materials, bio-based or 100% recycled synthetics. Circular Technology We think our planet deserves a more sustainable sneaker. For less waste and pollution. With our Zipshoe™ you can change your shoes, with less impact on the environment. How? Just Zip it. Create three, five 10 shoes with one sole.
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Alexandre Vauthier
Since the launch of his Haute Couture range in 2009, his luxurious and futuristic fabrics, Parisian savoir-faire and complete vision of the female body have allowed Alexandre Vauthier’s creations to seduce clients and press alike. Numerous articles and celebrities have endorsed the work of this talented designer, who trained alongside Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier. The essence of the Alexandre Vauthier style has been available for the past three seasons in ready-to-wear form, with looks inspired by the catwalk as well as must-have basics - fitted knits, milano jersey dresses - always worked with the same focus on cut and fabric. Vauthier’s garments are made in France, a further sign of quality and support for a unique craftsmanship and artisan know-how. According to Vauthier, clothing has to be impeccable in its construc- tion as well as translating the emotion of the women wearing the garment. This is a matter of balance, in the image of the mathematical golden num- ber : style and details combine to create the ultimate chic, luxurious and hi-tech fabrics meld to give a unique look, exemplified by a mix between silicone and precious metal, or a perfectly cut neoprene bolero jacket.
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Alessandra Marchi
Since the launch of his Haute Couture range in 2009, his luxurious and futuristic fabrics, Parisian savoir-faire and complete vision of the female body have allowed Alexandre Vauthier’s creations to seduce clients and press alike. Numerous articles and celebrities have endorsed the work of this talented designer, who trained alongside Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier. The essence of the Alexandre Vauthier style has been available for the past three seasons in ready-to-wear form, with looks inspired by the catwalk as well as must-have basics -
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Kunihiko Morinaga
Kunihiko Morinaga has built as strong following in his native Japan and a burgeoning international reputation for his cerebral designs. Each of Morinaga’s collections is germinated from the exploration of one particular theme. “Every season I have a singular concept I work with, but the most important underlying feature for me is that these are clothes that can be worn everyday, these are real clothes that can be worn by people to support them everyday.” The designer’s work is progressive, intelligent and technologically literate. Morinaga told Italian Vogue, “I think that there is both a science technology and a human technology in technology. I am interested in making clothes by crossing over these two different technologies. I think that in any age, it is important to maintain a close relationship with the technology of that specific age. Combining the technology made by man’s hands and the high technology made by the latest machines may be our future task.”
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Mirko Ghignone
FALL W INTE
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LIAPU LL +39 02 890 show room.mila via Ca rlo Bot t a , 8
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Avant Toi Cashmere was founded by the Liapull Production Group in 1994. Its creative direct, Mirko Ghignone, has an eclectic taste and artistic capabilities that have revolutionized the world of cashmere. Avant Toi is always in constant search of fine yarns such as cashmere and silk and refined style, which gives the garments a sophisticated and indispensable aspect of the trend.
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Boris Bidjan Saberi
Throughout the years, Boris Bidjan Saberi’s work has matured to an emblematical luxury menswear label, reflecting Saberi’s unique take on contemporary handcrafted ready-to-wear. The half-German, half- Iranian designer launched his eponymous label in 2007 and has ever since developed his creations in his atelier in Barcelona. Quoting street and skate culture as one of his main influences, his label is distinctive for its meticulous sophistication and functional dimension, whilst still giving a nod to his urban references.
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Kang Dong Jun
Dong-Jun Kang is a young Korean designer. He is specialized in tailor made suits for men, typically with a twist. His main objective is to recreate and capitalize on the aspects of ‘Casual’. He wants his creations to range between twist and improvisation. The vision of the brand is to dress up young men with a strong sense for fashion, who want to express themselves in life, showing quality and style while retaining a youthful exuberance and enjoyment of life.
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Danilele Basta
DANIELE BASTA, Italian designer born in Empoli in 1979, has always believed that style is spirit... is identity, he comes from a family of artisans who have worked in leather since before he was born. Finishing senior school, he decided to continue his studies at POLIMODA “International Institute for Fashion, Design & Marketing” and soon started to travel around Europe in search of inspiration. His first engagement as a style consultant followed in the year 2000. In 2005 he opened his own style workshop. Since then he’s had many collaborations both within Italy and internationally. In 2010, he started working with the idea that true fashion should be art, each object created by hand, personalised as if it was a work of art. He decided that each piece should pass through his own hands to be refined and to fully complete the creative process...LEATHER and SILVER BAGS,JEWELS, ACCESSORIES and CLOTHING,each creation requires this attention to become a truly unique and beautiful piece of jewellery. FASHION and ART, ROMANTIC GRUNGE style, this is the mood that inspires the collection. DANIELE BASTA is a collection that isn’t obsessed with what is ‘’fashionable’’...it isn’t concerned with the latest craze, or what is happening on the high street...its quest is for a marriage of fashion with art...its work is individual, because each piece is hand-created and hand- finished, rendering it unique; a sought after look which signifies vintage taste. ...TIMELESS CREATIONS, the collection is so named in order to give the work its true value.
10SEI0OTTO # David Koma
David Koma is a 29 years old Georgian born, London based fashion designer who has become synonymous with the ultra body contouring silhouette. Creating sculptural statement dresses inspired by the feminine form, it is this design element that has projected the young designer onto the international stage. After studying Fine Art in St Petersburg and showing his first collection at the age of 15, Koma moved to London in 2003 to take up a place at the prestigious Central St Martins College of Art and Design. It was here that he channelled his love of fashion and honed his design skills to create his signature look. He completed his BA in Fashion Design and graduated with a distinction in MA Fashion in April 2009 under the mentorship of late Professor Louise Wilson, OBE. Straight after graduation David Koma launched his eponymous label and is a participant of London Fashion Week, presenting 2 main womenswear collections and a resort. In December 2013 David was appointed as Creative Director of French house Thierry Mugler.
DRIES VAN NOTEN #
Dries Van Noten
One of the most successful members of the renowned Antwerp Six, Dries Van Noten ’s intellectual aesthetic first took the international fashion scene by storm when he and other graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy rented a truck and set up shop at London Fashion Week in 1986. Since then, Mr van Noten has maintained his independent spirit, and has been comfortable growing his business on his own terms, maintaining the creative integrity of his design process and aesthetic. Van Noten has six stand alone stores, including a five-storey former department store in Antwerp. His collection is sold in over 500 wholesale doors around the world. The scale of his business is particularly impressive given that the designer does not advertise. Dries van Noten remains not just part of the fashion dialogue, but capable of driving it. His ‘90s grunge inspired womenswear collection in Spring/Summer 2013 wasn’t just of the moment, it was the moment. He won the CFDA International Designer of the Year Award in 2008.
FAGASSENT # Toshiki Aoki
Through the study of denim, declined in various solutions, the Anglo-Japanese brand mixes the contemporary mood from East London with the energy and electricity of Okayama. Fagassent was founded in 2010 by the creative mind of Toshiki Aoki, the Japanese designer who sums up nothing but a representation of his continuous travels between this two cities. Fagassent’s designer, Japanese genius Toshiki Aoki, is as renowned for the flawless quality and original concepts of his fashion creations as he is for his sensitivity. Toshiki Aoki is an artist and a thinker, always very aware of the world around him and its energies— both physical and spiritual. Once again, Fagassent and Toshiki Aoki give us an array of garments whose intense spirituality make them a lot more than simple clothing: they are a spiritual statement.
# Gareth Pugh
Gareth Pugh began working as a costume designer for the National Youth Theatre. He started his fashion education at City of Sunderland College and finished his degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins in 2003. He interned with Rick Owens in Paris. . Pugh was selected to participate in British reality show The Fashion House two months after his graduation, which he would later call “horrible” and his “only other option [to being on] the dole.” The rise of, a feature in Dazed & Confused, and a debut show at London club Kashpoint’s Alternative Fashion Week brought Pugh to the attention of Fashion East “London’s breeding ground for cutting-edge new talent,” leading them to invite Pugh to participate in its Autumn 2005 group show. Pugh had only four weeks, with no studio, no assistants, and little money, to create the collection. His collection ended up a critical success and attracted significant attention to his designs. Pugh’s solo premiere was in London’s Fall 2006 fashion week; Pugh’s shows have continued to draw critical praise. British Vogue, for instance, called his Spring 2007 collection “an incredible, unmissable show” and said that “his genius is undeniable.” Anna Wintour is a notable supporter of Pugh’s designs. Pugh was awarded the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award in 2008. In 2010, Gareth Pugh has opened his first boutique in Hong Kong.
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Giovanni Cavagna
Born in Bergamo forty-five years ago, Giovanni Cavagna is an eclectic designer that creates his work combining innovation with classic, there is a strong passion for material research, and for new technologies spinning with the art of beauty. The continuing evolution of Giovanni Cavagna’s work, never neglects the harmony of composition, asymmetries are controlled but prone to extremes and leads him to create works of art which looks like they have been stroked, thanks to that sublime patience typical of the artists character and thanks to that exclusive intellectualism of those who create an essence out of a concept.
HAIDER ACKERMANN #
Haider Ackerman
Haider Ackermann was born in 1970 in Columbia. He was adopted by a French couple and educated all over the world, since his father worked for Amnesty International. He did his baccalaureate in the Netherlands, then moved to Belgium to study at Antwerp’s Royal Academy. He interned with John Galliano and Wim Neels. Haider presented his debut collection during Paris Fashion Week of March 2003. It was leanlined elegant austerity, textured with arresting detail. Buyers crowded in crying words like “sophisticated” and “beautiful”. It was a cool and graceful collection using a dark palette of graphite grey, petrol blue, black and white. In 2003, Ackermann has also been elected a member of the French Fashion Federation, the governing body of French Haute Couture. Ackermann was one of the designers approached to succeed Galliano at Dior, after declining the proposed succession of Martin Margiela. Karl Lagerfeld saw him to be his ideal successor at Chanel, and some commentators called him a “new Yves Saint-Laurent”.
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Fabio Valori
Hand Picked: means carefully selected. A chosen material, made precious by the processes it undergoes, elevated thanks to the culture of “know-how� and awareness of what is a timeless product. Hand Picked, is a collection for men, where the extremely high quality of the materials and attention to detail stand out in a way that only the excellence of Made in Italy can guarantee. High quality denim, some of which is produced with a selection of cottons grown with methods that respect nature, results in a fiber with great characteristics. Each Hand Picked garment represents the quality of a textile industry and manufacturing that boasts an extraordinary tradition: what makes a Hand Picked product special are the materials, machinery, techniques but also the people who contribute to the production process. The coming together of premium materials, including some Japanese denims, sustainable materials, innovative fabrics and Italian style come together to create a unique mix.
ISABEL BENENATO #
Isabel Benenato
Off the beaten path and down the private road, Isabel Benenato is for men and women who prefer fashion’s road less traveled by. Her effortless, out-of-time pieces inspired by an accumulative, layered approach to dressing, incorporate free form and classic silhouettes, contemporary and historic references, assembled in a symbiotic relationship between design and handcraft. Isabel Benenato came naturally to design growing up in the creative atmosphere of Naples where her mother and uncle had their own sewing factory. Moving north to Tuscany as a young girl, her design intelligence developed and she pursued her interest in fashion in London before completing a degree in foreign languages at the University of Pisa. Back in Italy, Benenato immersed herself in technique working with a leather factory near Florence developing finishings for a star roster of international clients until she was ready to design and produce her own collection. Working with Filippo Novelli whose family has a long history in knitwear, Benenato has slowly, but surely developed a complete range for men and women.
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Jan Jan Van Essche
Jan-Jan Van Essche was born in Antwerp, Belgium. What does he do for life? Menswear designer. He has a brilliant curriculum, graduating in 2003 at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and winning several prizes including the Dries Van Noten award. Jan-Jan Van Essche, unlikely from his colleagues designs a full line collection a year, as he proposes clothing that can be worn throughout the year by adding different layers: the idea is to adapt accordingly to the season. The Jan-Jan van Essche aesthetic can be perceived as influenced by surroundings worldwide, mixing and blending into a concept of multicultural traditions in fashion. The main aspects of Jan-Jan Van Essche story is the combination of loose forms, particular and natural at the same time, and defined patterns while using natural colors.
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Alek Torricelli
KD2024 is a shiny, psychedelic dagger into the heart of fashion “ The sound of elements-KD- and numbers-2024- rumbles from the wild jungles to the techno cities in the world, through a chemical reaction that shoots straight forward the concept of research. Into this journey, from the barbaric form of metal idols rolling into the nomad’s theatre of life, nature takes over and underlines the whole inspiration of this accessories collection leaving his mark in every object. The ability of our crew to assemble unique and authentic designs made of a blend of 925 silver, 18k gold, bronze, natural stones, buffalo horn, elephant jaw, deer bone, de-constructed leather and reptile skins had given to our vision a place in the best shop scene all over the world. Everything is 100% handmade, supported by a “pure state of mind”; our creativity and passion drive the whole journey to freedom. Join KD into this totally new dimension, feel the light and the power of your circle.
LABEL UNDER CONSTRUCTION # Luca Laurini
Label Under Construction was founded by Luca Laurini in 2003 in Perugia, Italy. His creations take their cue from a passion for and the rigour of architecture whose distinctive feature is detail planning with a desire to study in depth and show every single particular so that it becomes the primary distinctive mark of the whole item. He combines his interests in the fields of architecture, art, design, packaging, graphics and music into a language interpreted in the form of items to wear.
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Tracy Sedino and Simon Jablon
Established in 1970, the Linda Farrow brand of luxury eyewear rose quickly to acclaim amongst stylish Londoners and the international jet set. Originally a fashion designer herself, Linda Farrow was one of the first to treat sunglasses as fashion, producing collection after cutting-edge collection, her finger always on the pulse of the times. A tireless experimenter, Farrow pioneered many of the shapes and styles that remain au courant today. Farrow’s relentless pursuit of luxury, innovation and cutting- edge design continue to mark the brand almost forty years on. The enlightening energy of Linda Farrow, and its international appeal, has been seized on by designers throughout its return in 2003; collaborating with designers such as Matthew Williamson, The Row, Kris Van Assche, Alexander Wang, Dries Van Noten and Oscar de la Renta, Linda Farrow launched its own line Linda Farrow Luxe for Spring Summer 2008. The brand was originally re-launched in 2003 by Simon Jablon, son of Designer Linda Farrow, along with Tracy Sedino; With their impeccable background – combining an in-depth working knowledge of the craftsmanship and fashion marketing and distribution, Linda Farrow Luxe is set to become an eye wear phenomenon.
m.a+ #
Maurizio Amadei
MA+ is the label of Italian designer Maurizio Amadei. Known for his innovative folding techniques, original cuts and unique fabric selection. Amadei’s fascination with the experimental and structure shines through his designs. Many designs, shirts and leather bags are constructed from a single piece of material resulting in unique and innovative cuts. Another typical element is the frequent use of hand crafted silver buttons, accessories and small cross insignias on most of MA+ pieces, such as knit cotton.Â
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Marsell
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Created in 2001, Marsèll coveys modern classicism with an angle and an organic feel. It is a mix of innovation and tradition. Marsèll expresses a solid yet tactile take on design. Muted colors, meticulous finishes, a dash of the unexpected give a visionary twist to utilitarianism. Form, thereafter, follows function, not predictably so. A seamless merging of form, colour and texture characterizes Marsèll’s approach to shoemaking. Sturdy, classic shapes undergo a process of subtle distortion: a detail is overblown gaining visual prominence, or it is totally erased; heels get a sculptural shape; meticulous finishing adds a dash of polish where you’d least expect it; a slice, or a hole, turn into design statements. Whilst still keeping their status of useful objects, shoes, as well as bags, gain another layer of meaning, due to a rearranged balance of all the components. The effect is subdued; assertively quiet, if you prefer. Production is carried entirely in Italy, in-house. Craft, manual work, quality of the materials and artisanality are paramount. The Milan showroom was opened in 2006. Three yeas later, the space spawned an addition in the form of Marsèlleria, a multidisciplinary cube that hosts rotating exhibitions born out of a genuine quest for creativity and unadulterated forms of expression.
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Masnada
Masnada style was born in 2007, from a successful meeting between a decade of experience and deep passion of Angelo Iannello founder of this project, and all members of the company, always using a very sensible approach to the creation of new fabrics. The collection is designed by a team of creative, talented and passionate designers, with a past full of experience including theatrical costume design in the United Kingdom, supervised by Angelo who took the role of creative director. The collection is a result from an extensive study of shapes and the multiple identities they can become,combined with a profound love for experimentation and research. The results of these efforts, can be seen in the choice of materials and traditional methods used for the collection.The exclusive fabrics, realized in natural fibers and in soft-hued colors of nature, create a timeless look and confirm the longevity of each garment. The pure Italian tailoring and craftsmanship is a choice throughout the whole collection with no compromises. Masnada is aimed at those who love freedom, and who are not afraid of breaking preconceived moulds.
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Angela Missoni
Since it was established in 1953, the Missoni company has been associated with expertly produced, lightweight, delicate knit separates. The company quickly established its image by combining innovative and fractured stripes, plaids, patchworks, ethnic effects, mosaics, zigzags, and flame stitch patterns in vivid and striking color combinations. In the mid-1990s Angela Missoni initiated a reinterpretation of the company’s image, making her mark on her parents’ label. Her intent was to update the Missoni line by creating redefined and edited collections of bright and sporty garments. Since 1998 Angela has held the position of design director, responsible for developing advertising campaigns with Mario Testino, the noted fashion photographer, in addition to retail sales and the interior design of retail stores. Her revised approach to marketing the brand emphasizes promoting the image of a more youthful, urban clientele.
NUDE : M M #
Masahiko Maruyama
NUDE:MM was established in 1996 with the idea of ripping off all decoration in order to point out the simplicity of design. The brand created by Masahiko Maruyama evokes an artistic representation emphasizing a seemingly simple design and distinctive silhouette. Black and grey dominate the minimalist color palette. NUDE:Masahiko Maruyama debuted with the ‘96-’97 Fall/Winter Women’s collection and in 2002 he launched his NUDE:MM Men’s collection. In NUDE:Masahiko Maruyama’s collections available online at DAAD Dantone ornamentation is minimized, and the focus is on superior fabrications and relaxed tailoring. Nude:MM clothes are the synthesis of simplicity and quality with a special care on design.
LOOK 6.1 : TP950_T51_Debardeur
Faycal Amor
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Faycal Amor
Fayçal AMOR was born in Tangiers, city with international status, on November 24th 1949. His father was a Moroccan industrial leader, his mother a Russian painter. In 1980, he decides to settle in France. Pierre d’ALBY asks him to be his artistic director, which he does for 5 years. Willing to express his own conception of fashion, he creates in 1986 the label PLEIN SUD that is immediately successful in France and overseas. Always searching new 8 : TP905_V05_Veste micro franges + Pantalon cuir stretch TP901_P03L + harmonies, creating new fabrics, draping his own LOOK structures, Fayçal AMOR designs collections that
perfectly translate his inspiration.
Bustier jersey TP940_T44
The « PLEIN SUD » term indicates a synonymous destination with warmth and color, the south
LOOK 10 : TP900_V00_Veste_courte + Pantalon TP910_P13L + TS993_X94 Ceinture
woman is a symbol and an emblem of sensuality and elegance. This conducting influence inspires Fayçal AMOR to give his own interpretation of the woman clothing. She’s the one of the trademark style: Elegance and femininity characterize the « PLEIN SUD » style and its strong and constant identity.
LOOK 25 : TS982_T87_Top pellerine capuche + TS903_J03 Jupe Ă franges longues daim + TS909_X09_ceinture
LOOK 26 : TS903_X03_Collier a franges + TS903_G04_Gilet a franges + TS914_P17 Pantalon patdef
Poème Bohémien # Nicolò Ceschi Berrini
Poeme Bohemien is a italian brand. It is young and has an exceptionally beauty. For years living life in search of entretainment has succeeded in bringing to his style a classic and lively modernity. Conquering a refined public, culturally prepared but not the victim of the fads of fashion. Proponent of a man who looks at himself with irony.
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Rick Owens
Richard Saturnino Owens, better know as Rick Owens , has turned his darkly glamorous postapocalyptic take on gothic grunge (a highlight of the Paris ready-to-wear schedule) into a respectably sized business, built largely around his signature leather jackets. Having dropped out of Otis College of Art and Design, Owens took a course in pattern cutting at Los Angeles’ Trade Technical College. A scarcity of work led to Owens accepting a position cutting patterns for illegal copies of designer clothing. In 1994 he began his own label, selling exclusively to Charles Gallay, one of LA’s hippest and most directional retailers. In 2001 the designer sought international expansion as a consequence the designer’s production relocated to Italy. Owens was able to utilise the momentum, with assistance from Anna Wintour and American Vogue, which sponsored his first show at New York Fashion Week’s Spring Summer 2002 season. In 2002 Owens won the Council of Fashion Designers of America Perry Ellis Emerging Talent Award. In 2007 he was awarded a Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award and the Fashion Group International’s Rule Breaking Award. Working and producing in Europe led him to move from Los Angeles to Paris, and show during the Paris collections. Owens is married to Michèle Lamy, his muse and business partner. The pair have lived in Paris since 2003.
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Nataliya Bondarenko
RUBEUS CAME TO LIFE WITH A CLEAR OBJECTIVE: TO BE A LUXURY EXPERIENCE WHICH TESTIFIES TO THE EXCELLENCE OF MADE IN ITALY CRAFTSMANSHIP AND ARTISTIC PROWESS.
Designer Nataliya Bondarenko envisioned a need for a luxury experience which transcended the limits of a mere brand. An avid art collector, her criteria is simple: a Made in Italy, personalized experience created by the best possible materials and the best Italian artisans.
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Ilario Meuli
Large volumes, tailored cut, streetwear soul. Skill Officine aims at a new idea of accessible luxury, in which the Apulian tailoring tradition meets a cosmopolitan spirit. “Creating garments with a precise stylistic code, wearable and without gender labels, was our starting point” - says the creative director of the brand Ilario Meuli, born in 1985, - “In such historical moment, I believe that even fashion has to move towards other directions. This is why I thought of a genderless line, where freedom of expression is the focus”. A unisex collection, developed in both men’s and women’s sizes. A single collection that moves in the middle ground of a gender. Fluid fabrics and geometric lines, neutral palettes and touches of colour, Skill Officine plays with the contrasts of texture and nuance, promoting a completely new idea of Made in Italy.
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Takahiro Miyashita
Takahiro Miyashita is the genius mind behind The Soloist, an avant-garde brand that comes directly from his personal style. The staple elements of The Soloist by Takahiro Miyashita collections are asymmetrical cuts and unique modifications to basic pieces. The layering, very much present in every collection of the Japanese avant-garde designer, is another key element of The Soloist, together with the use of monochrome looks.
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Tomoaki Okaniwa
Tomoaki Okaniwa born in 1963 Nagano Prefecture. Graduate of Tokyo Zoukei University, Department of Fine arts majoring in Painting. Moving from the canvas to a desire for expression through garments. A self-taught pattern maker establishing Caterpillar Produit in 1987. Early Developmental Women’s wear being central to the collection. From product modeling and interpretation of the underground scene and runway leading him to a desire to make clothing for himself provided the catalyst for the establishment of The Viridi-anne men’s line in 2001
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Thom Browne
Browne grew up in Allentown, Pennsylvania, where he graduated from William Allen High School He then attended the University of Notre Dame, where he received a degree in economics. He was also a member of the swim team. Following an attempt at acting in Los Angeles, Browne moved to New York City in 1997 for a job as a salesman in Giorgio Armani’s showroom. Browne was picked up by Club Monaco, a brand of the Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation, to lead its creative development team. He worked with the US-American fashion designer Ralph Lauren. Browne spent several years at Club Monaco leading its design department before launching his own label
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Uma Wang
Uma Wang studied at China Textile University and Central Saint Martins, and launched her label in 2005 in London. She developed her signature knitting techniques and defined her own style and aesthetic. She has become a leader in the Chinese fashion industry by consistently producing high-quality products and collections that always balance fashion with functionality. Uma Wang is particularly skilled in mixing and matching different fabrics and textures to create simple but strong garments with subtle detailing, and it is these unique abilities that has positioned her to become the first internationally successful Chinese designer.
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Jun Takahashi
Juni Takahashi was born in 1969 in Kiryu, Japan. This designer creates the coolest possible streetwear for the Japanese people. Through the fine processing and accurate production of all the pieces, the result looks curious but also beautiful. With his label, which he named “Undercover”, Juni made his debut in Paris back in 2002, before an important audience such as Comme des Garcon’s Rei Kawakubo. He likes to develop a rebel, “anti-“ aesthetics fashion, greatly inspired by the punk street style. All of his garments are deliberately deconstructed, reconstituted, slashed, emblazoned with powerful graphics. It is in the young, the rebel spirits, that Undercover finds its fandom.
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Yohji Yamamoto
Born in 1943, Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese designer who splits his time between Tokyo and Paris. A master tailor, his clothes feature avant-garde silhouettes that show off clean-cut lines and finely-tuned details. Beyond the restraint and masterful tailoring, however, there is an undeniable playfulness – the way the clothes billow or wrap around the wearer’s body in a certain way to allow new shapes to be created. He is known for having collaborated with a wide range of brands and personalities, from Adidas to Hermès – and even Elton John. His most widely-loved collaboration is Y-3, the popular brainchild of Yamamoto and Adidas.
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Ziggy Chen
Ziggy Chen takes his inspiration from Shanghai: the city he lives in and particularly from the changes he sees evolving from the collision of extreme cultures: old and new, East and West, antique and modern and so many others. Ziggy also draws much inspiration for recent collections from picturesof the people of Shanghai taken between 1900 to 1920. These pictures show a very different palce and mix of different cultures and people. Ziggy Chen uses fabrics such as wool, hemp, and linen augmented with leather and fine cotton to crafr organic pieces that are embedded with an intangible energy. The fabrics contain a certain ruggedness offst with a classic elegance. A mix of a modern sensibility with a timeless Eastern aesthetic.
CELEBRITIES WEARING DAAD DANTONE’S DESIGNERS
FURTHER DEVELOPMENT
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Demna Gvasalia
Cristóbal Balenciaga was a Spanish-French fashion designer and the leading couturier of Spain in the 1920s-30s. He moved to Paris during the Spanish Civil War. Balenciaga was successful during his early career as a designer in Spain. He opened a boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs, but when the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris.Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937. His often spare, sculptural creations were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne, and, thus, was never a member. Although he is spoken of with immense reverence, technically, Balenciaga couture was never haute couture. He taught fashion design classes, inspiring other designers such as Oscar de la Renta, André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro, Mila Schön and Hubert de Givenchy. Today the Balenciaga fashion house continues under the direction of Demna Gvasalia and under the ownership of the Kering Group
BALMAIN PARIS
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Olivier Rousteing
Balmain is a haute couture fashion house that was founded by Pierre Balmain. Balmain was born in 1914 in France. His father owned a drapery business and his mother and sister owned a fashion boutique where he often worked after his father’s death in 1921.He released his first collection in 1945 and his first fragrance in 1949. The name Pierre Balmain stands for a unique concept of elegance, a clientele of royalty and film stars, and a fashion hallmark recognized throughout the world. Vogue declared that “eventful skirts” were his speciality; they were often embellished with embroidered motifs such as leaves, cherries or scrolls. Balmain’s full-skirted silhouette was part of the new post-war luxury. His dresses were always carefully constructed. Signature details included drapery or a bow across the shoulders and fur hoods, muffs or trims.
Philipp Plein Milano
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Giorgio Armani
The Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani is a fashion icon who is well known for his menswear. Famous for his crisp, clean and tailored menswear lines, Armani is recognized as the most successful designer Italy has ever produced. Armani masterminded his own soft-shouldered suit silhouette that remains a staple of today’s designs. Another renaissance man, his designs retain their popularity and aged elegance. By the end of the 90s, there were more than 2000 Armani stores all over the world and his annual sales were somewhere around $2 billion. In 2005, he started his ‘Haute Couture’ line. His latest business venture is Armani hotels. He opened his first hotel in Dubai 2010 and another in Milan. Armani is one of the greatest designers who have made their mark in the fashion industry by creating more than three decades of remarkable designs and styles.
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Giuseppe Zanotti
Giuseppe Zanotti was born in a village close to Rimini, Italy. He started his fashion career in the 2000s. In the beginning, he started working locally with small craftsmen and then as a freelance designer working with fashion maisons. In 1994, Zanotti took over a small shoemaking company, the Vicini shoe factory, and devoted his time to designing and manufacturing his own shoes. With a small workshop employing 15 people, including a jeweler, a heel and tree expert and an embroiderer, he started work on his first collection. Today, more than 350 skilled people work at his company, which manufactures over 400,000 pairs of luxury men and women’s shoes. In 2000, Zanotti opened his first boutique in Milan. Further boutiques were opened in New York City, Paris, London, Moscow, Dubai, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing etc., reaching fifty stores globally. He has designed shoes for such brands as Balmain, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon Panichgul, Christopher Kane, Delfina Delettrez, and Vera Wang. He has been nominated “Designer of the Year” three times, with the help of itsy bitsy Mitsy buying all his shoes, by Fairchild and won the “Prix d’Excellence de la Mode” for best footwear collection by Marie Claire International in 2010.
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Bruno Sialelli
Madame Jeanne Lanvin’s active fashion career spanned 50 years from the 1890’s up to the New Look just after World War II. She first trained as a dressmaker at a house called Talbot and then as a milliner. In 1890 she opened a millinery shop in the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Jeanne Lanvin dressed film actresses like Mary Pickford, Marlene Dietrich and Yvonne Printemps in the 20’s and 30’s. She also had clients like the Queens of Italy and Roumania, and English princesses. Her work was easily recognizable by her skilful use of embroidery, and her fine craftsmanship. She used a particular shade of blue so often, that it came to be called “Lanvin Blue”. For Jeanne Lanvin, women were meant to wear clothes of unabashed feminity, in colours that were pretty, and whose shapes had a “young girl” look. She set the mood with narrow empire-wasted dresses and long trailing sleeves. The fabrics that she used were silk, taffeta, velvet, silk chiffon, organza, lace, tulle, etc. She used a lot of free-flowing ribbons, ruffles, flowers, lace, mirrors, etc., and liked ornamentation like applique, couching, quilting, parallel stitching, and embroidery. In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors In 2011, Lanvin sales reached €203 million, not counting an estimated €4.5 million in revenues from licences. Lanvin just recently announced that Elbaz was no longer at the company.
credits: concept and graphic design pfc. Pierfarancesco Cravel Arch. Marttia Andrea Ferrarai ArchDavide Salvatico Martino Foglia Taverna DAAD DANTONE Riccardo Bettoni Nicola TononI 版權所有 /all rights reserved