18 minute read
What’s a SOURDOUGH STARTER, anyway?
Ready, set, start — What’s a sourdough starter, anyway?
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During the COVID pandemic, the amount of Americans seeking solace by baking sourdough bread resulted in flour shortages and record-breaking baking-ingredient sales in 2020. According to Nielsen data reported by Bloomberg Reports, sales of baking yeast were up 457%, flour increased by 155%, baking powder by 178%, butter by 73%, and eggs sales also went up 48%.
Whether you have already taken the plunge, are ready to try sourdough-bread baking for the first time, or want to learn more, here’s what you need to know about sourdough and starters.
What is sourdough, and how is it different from other bread?
Sourdough is a slow-rise bread naturally leavened by a live-fermented culture or “starter.” This is what makes the dough rise rather than dry yeast. The benefit of a starter is that it slows down the proofing time and allows the bread to develop deep flavors. This versatile bread is a favorite with bakers because it produces delicious flavors and textures from a wide range of flours, including white, oat, rye, millet and whole-grain.
If you’re a beginner, consider using white bread flour for your first foray into sourdough bread. It’s easy to work with, easy to find, and not as expensive as specialty flours.
However, there is one caveat: If you’ve found a sourdough recipe you’d like to try, you should be aware that the bread might only take a few hours to proof the bread might only take a few hours to proof and bake. Still, depending on how warm or cold you keep your home, the starter takes a minimum of five days and up to two weeks to ferment before it’s ready to use in your recipe. Plan accordingly.
A short ingredient list
Believe it or not, sourdough bread includes only four ingredients: flour (your choice), water, salt (sea salt or kosher salt) and the starter, unless you want to add flavorings or textures with ingredients such as honey, molasses, herbs, seeds and nuts.
So, what actually is a starter, and how is it made? A starter is a culture made from flour and water that relies on ambient yeasts in the air and natural yeasts and bacteria in the flour to start the fermentation process and leaven the bread.
The beauty of using a starter is that it, combined with a lengthier proofing time, produces the sour, tangy, earthy flavor and slightly chewy texture people love in sourdough bread.
How to prepare and “feed” your starter
As previously mentioned, the starter can take from five days to two weeks to fully develop, and it must be “fed” fresh flour and water almost daily to maintain proper fermentation. Here are the instructions:
DAY ONE » Starter ingredients: 1 cup whole wheat or rye flour (they ferment better than all-purpose flour) and ½ cup warm water that is 90 to 100°F. Yeast will become inactive if the temperature exceeds 100°F. Place the water and flour into a foodsafe container. A 32-ounce, wide-mouth Mason jar works well. With a small whisk or fork, stir well until the texture is smooth and thick like a heavy batter. Secure the lid and allow the mixture to rest in a warm place that’s around 75°F for 24 hours.
DAY TWO » Look for signs of fermentation bubbles, but don’t worry if there aren’t any; just let the starter rest for another day.
DAY THREE TO DAY SIX » “Feed” ingredients: 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, ½ cup warm water (90 to 100°F).
Whether you see bubbles or not, first, discard half of the starter. This prevents too much fermentation; otherwise, each day’s feeding would grow and exceed the container’s capacity. Add the flour and water. Stir with whisk or fork until the consistency resembles a thick pancake batter; cover and allow the mixture to rest in a warm place for 24 hours. Repeat this process for the next three days.
LEARNING HOW TO MAKE A STARTER IS KEY TO BAKING BREAD WITH A SLIGHT TANG AND TENDER CRUMB.
any; just let the starter rest for another day. DAY SEVEN AND BEYOND » By now, you should have an active starter that is ready to use. How can you tell? The volume will have doubled in quantity, and there should be lots of fluffy, spongy bubbles that smell yeasty and look lively. Feed your starter correctly by keeping it at room temperature, feeding it every day. Or, if you want to feed it less often for future bread baking, store it in the refrigerator and feed it about every five days or when the volume deflates by more than half and the bubbles drop and become less active and visible.
To know with certainty your starter is active and ready for baking bread, try the float test: Place a large glass of room-temperature water on the counter. Drop a spoonful of starter into the glass. If it floats, it’s ready to use. If it sinks, let the starter sit longer to develop more bubbles, or feed it again and let it sit for six hours or as long as 12 hours before repeating the float test.
For a more “sour” sourdough, consider using rye flour and adding a touch of onions for that distinctive tangy flavor. And, when you’re looking to deliver a gift to “the person who has everything,” consider baking homemade bread to give with some quality butter — along with the bread’s recipe and enough starter for friends or family to prepare bread from scratch at home.
EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE
TIPS FOR MAKING HOMEMADE BREAD
BY SUMMER WHITFORD PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN DONNELL
The acclaimed food writer James Beard
once said, “Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” If you agree with this premise, why not make your own? It might seem intimidating, but bread-baking is a delicious chemistry anyone can master, and here are some tips to get you started.
Bread is only as good as its ingredients
Always insist on nothing but the best, freshest ingredients for your bread, from the water (chlorinated tap water imparts terrible tastes and smells and could kill the live yeast and bacteria in your sourdough starter) to the flour, yeast, etc. Like flour, never rely strictly on the sell-by date on the bag; use your eyes and nose to see if the sack looks clean and smells like flour, and then stick your nose into it. The flour should smell like ripe grain, nothing else. If it smells musty, mildewy or rancid, throw it out.
Without yeast, there is no bread, so testing it for freshness is essential for success. To do this, in a small bowl, mix ½ teaspoon sugar, ½ cup warm, not hot, water in the range of 90 to 100°F, and ¼ ounce active dry yeast. Wait 10 minutes, see if the mixture bubbles, and then wait 10 more minutes. By then, you should have a light, frothy dome and the certainty of knowing your yeast is fresh. terrific bread. However, rather than dive into the deep end for your first bread, try a forgiving recipe, such as focaccia. This homey, Italian bread is easy to make, can be easily transformed with toppings, and feeds a hungry crowd.
Read the recipe, and then read it again
Even bread with just four ingredients relies on a formula; the ingredient amounts and instructions are there for a reason, so read the recipe carefully from start to finish. Resist the urge to improvise; baking bread involves complex chemical reactions that can create aromatic loaves as easily as disasters.
Mise en place
Seasoned bakers know that mise en place, which in French means, “everything in its place,” keeps you organized, saves time, and could even help avoid a recipe flop. Proper mise en place ensures all of your ingredients and tools are laid out in order of need and are easily accessible. This kind of organization will prevent accidents, missed ingredients, forgotten steps and failed recipes.
Bigger isn’t better, but it helps
As with any craft, the right tools make a difference. At the top of most bakers’ list is a properly calibrated oven (this ensures exact temperatures) — preferably a large, 30-inch oven.
Bakers love a good, heavy-duty stand mixer and go for a 5-quart-capacity mixer every time with dough hook, paddle and whisk attachments. Its size ensures the bowl and motor are large enough for big recipes, and it can easily mix and knead stiff doughs.
Don’t sweat the small stuff
Scratch that. Go ahead and sweat the small stuff because small wares, such as brushes, various cookie sheets and rimmed baking pans and cooling racks, are essential in every baker’s toolbox. They make specific tasks more manageable. Instant-read thermometers give you accurate water and dough temperatures, and metal bench scrapers or dough cutters cut the dough into sections without tearing and destroying the gluten strands. At the same time, plastic or silicone bowl scrapers let you quickly remove every last bit of sticky dough from inside a mixing bowl, and stainless steel mixing bowls can be used for whisking eggs and to proof dough and hold ingredients. Your recipe won’t be accurate without tools to weigh and measure ingredients, and that’s why an accurate scale, digital or old-school, is required, along with more than one set of measuring spoons and cups.
4 recipes that will inspire you to bake
Whether your bread-making skills qualify as entry-level or expert, these recipes by Washington chef and culinary instructor Summer Whitford have a little something for everyone. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN DONNELL
BAGELS
WHITFORD SHARES, “The secret to a bagel’s chewy texture is the boiling step — the longer you let the bagel boil, the chewier and thicker the crust.”
• 1 cup whole or 2% milk • 4 Tbsp unsalted butter • 2 Tbsp granulated sugar • ¼ oz active dry yeast • 1 extra-large egg, separated • 1 tsp sea salt • 3½ cups bread flour • unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting • nonstick cooking spray • 1 tsp cold water • bagel toppings such as kosher salt, sesame or poppy seeds, pepitas, rolled oats or grated cheese (optional)
In small saucepan, heat milk to boiling; remove saucepan from heat. Add butter and sugar; stir until butter melts. Transfer milk mixture to mixing bowl for heavy-duty mixer; cool until 90 to 100°F.
With whisk, stir yeast into milk mixture; let stand about 10 minutes or until a frothy sponge forms. Add egg white and salt to milk mixture. Attach dough hook attachment to mixer and secure bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually add bread flour and beat just until a smooth, soft dough forms.
Increase speed to medium. Knead dough until smooth and no longer sticky. Form dough into a ball. Place dough in large bowl sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Cover dough with plastic wrap sprayed with cooking spray and leave in a warm place (about 75°F) about 1 hour to rise and nearly double in size.
Lightly dust work surface with all-purpose flour. Divide dough into 8 to 10 pieces, each about the size of a small lemon; shape each piece into 4-inch rounds. Place finger into center of each round of dough until it reaches the work surface; move and twirl finger in a circle to widen the hole until it is about one-third the width of the bagel’s diameter.
Transfer bagel rounds to cookie sheets; cover with damp cloth. Let stand about 10 minutes to puff slightly. Meanwhile, fill 4- to 6-quart saucepot of water halfway; heat to boiling. Preheat oven to 400°F. Spray 2 cookie sheets with nonstick cooking spray; set aside.
Carefully place each bagel round, 1 at a time, into boiling water; boil about 30 seconds or until it puffs. With spider-style skimmer strainer or slotted spoon, flip dough and boil 30 seconds longer. Overboiling will make the bagel break up, lose its shape, and it may split or crack during baking. With strainer, remove each bagel from water, allowing excess water to drip into saucepot; transfer to greased cookie sheet. Repeat with remaining bagel rounds.
In cup, with fork, mix egg yolk and water until well mixed. Brush egg mixture on top of bagels. If using, sprinkle top of bagels with desired toppings. Bake about 20 minutes or until bagels are brown with a crisp top. Transfer bagels to wire cooling rack to cool slightly to serve warm, or cool completely to enjoy later. Yields: 8 to 10
BRIOCHE
ALTHOUGH IT IS SIMILAR TO CHALLAH, a staple in Jewish bakeries, brioche includes butter, which adds richness and a moist crumb.
SPONGE • 1 oz dry active yeast • 1 oz granulated sugar • ½ cup warm water (90 to 100°F) • unbleached all-purpose flour
DOUGH • 2 lbs unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting • 10 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten, plus 1 egg to brush on top • 3 oz granulated sugar
Prepare Sponge: In 5-quart mixing bowl for heavy-duty mixer, add yeast, sugar and water and stir with whisk until combined. With spatula, stir in enough flour until a thick, sticky dough forms. Set aside and let stand in warm place (about 75°F) up to 30 minutes to allow dough to rise and almost double in size.
Prepare Dough: Attach paddle attachment to mixer. To sponge, add flour, sugar, beaten eggs and salt. With mixer on low speed, beat until a well-mixed dough starts to form. Add butter and mix until all ingredients are well combined. The dough will be beige in color, not entirely smooth and may appear unfinished. Cover dough with plastic wrap sprayed with nonstick cooking spray; refrigerate at least 12 hours. This allows dough to proof slowly and develop a good gluten structure.
Place dough on well-floured work surface; • 1½ tsp sea salt • 1 lb unsalted butter, each stick cut into 6 chunks, then softened to room temperature • nonstick cooking spray • 1 tsp cold water
divide into two equal pieces, each about 24 ounces. Knead each piece of dough by hand 10 to 15 minutes or until smooth and silky. Spray two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans with cooking spray. Form dough into 2 loaves, then transfer to loaf pans. Cover with plastic wrap sprayed with cooking spray; let stand in warm place (about 75°F) until dough rises and doubles in size.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400°F. In cup, with fork, mix remaining egg and water until well mixed. Brush egg mixture on top of dough. Bake 20 to 30 minutes or until golden brown. To check for doneness, skewer inserted into side of loaf should come out clean. (This preserves the flawless appearance on top of loaf.) Or, remove bread from pan; thump bottom of bread. If it sounds hollow like a drum, it is done. Cool bread slightly on wire rack to serve warm, or cool completely to enjoy later. Yields: 2 loaves.
the dough is ready for the next rise.
Remove and set aside plastic wrap. Punch dough in bowl to release gases. Replace plastic wrap to cover dough. Allow dough to rise a second time in a warm place. To know if this stage of proofing is done, the dough should be larger and the top domed, smooth and glossy with bubbles visible just under the surface of the dough and sometimes along the outer edges.
Spray two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans with cooking spray. Divide dough in half; form dough into 2 loaves, then transfer to loaf pans. Cover loaves with sprayed plastic wrap and allow dough to rise in a warm place.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Place loaf pans on middle oven rack and bake about 30 minutes or until top is golden brown on top. Check for doneness by removing loaves from pans; thump bottom of bread. If it sounds hollow, it is done. Or place instant-read thermometer in center of loaf; temperature should be around 190°F.
Cool bread slightly on wire cooking rack to serve warm, or cool completely to enjoy later. If desired, place bread in freezer-safe container and freeze up to 2 months. Yields: 2 loaves.
JEWISH RYE BREAD
BEGIN SEVEN DAYS in advance by making 3 cups of the sourdough starter recipe on the opposite page, but use medium rye flour and add 2 tablespoons caraway seeds and 1 teaspoon finely minced yellow onion to the starter on Day 1.
• 3 cups rye starter • 3¾ cups warm water (90 to 100°F) • 2 oz granulated sugar • 1½ oz active dry yeast • 1¼ lbs medium rye flour • 3½ lbs bread flour • 4 oz caraway seeds • 1½ oz sea salt • nonstick cooking spray
Add starter and water to 5-quart mixing bowl for heavy-duty mixer; stir until well mixed, making sure that the temperature of the water is hot enough to bring the combined temperature of the starter and water to 100°F.
Add sugar and yeast and stir to mix well, followed by rye flour. Attach dough hook to mixer and, on low speed, mix just until combined (mixture will look lumpy). Let stand, uncovered, until mixture rises and nearly doubles in size.
Add bread flour, caraway seeds and salt to rye mixture; return bowl to mixer with dough hook attached. Knead 10 minutes on low speed until a smooth, elastic dough forms. Do not increase speed; the dough will become too sticky and difficult to remove.
Spray extra-large bowl with nonstick cooking spray. Transfer dough to bowl; cover with plastic wrap sprayed with cooking spray. Allow dough to stand in warm place (about 75°F) 2 to 4 hours to rise and double in size. To know if dough is ready, do a “poke test.” If you gently poke dough in its center and it slowly springs back and leaves a slight indentation,
FOCACCIA
WHITFORD LOVES to introduce beginner bakers to focaccia because it is an uncomplicated recipe that also teaches the basics of the craft.
• ½ oz active dry yeast • scant 3 cups warm water (90 to 100°F) • 4 tsp granulated sugar • 5 cups bread flour • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting • 4 tsp sea salt, plus more for sprinkling on top of dough • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing pan and brushing on top of dough • nonstick cooking spray • dried herbs such as rosemary and thyme or herbes de Provence
In 5-quart mixing bowl for heavy-duty mixer, add yeast, water and sugar; stir with whisk until combined. Let stand 5 to 8 minutes or until yeast proofs and becomes bubbly and foamy.
With dough hook attached and mixer on low speed, gradually add flours and salt alternately with oil. Beat about 5 minutes or until a sticky dough forms that clings to sides of bowl. Increase speed to medium; knead until dough forms into a smooth, elastic ball that pulls away from sides of bowl. If dough is still very sticky, slowly add a small amount of oil and knead until dough cleanly pulls away from sides of bowl to form a ball around hook.
Transfer dough to lightly floured work surface; shape dough into smooth ball. Spray inside of same mixing bowl with nonstick cooking spray; place dough inside mixing bowl. Spray 1 side of plastic wrap with cooking spray and place over dough to cover.
Place dough in warm spot (about 75°F); let stand about 1 hour or until dough nearly doubles in size. Meanwhile, brush large rimmed baking pan (about 18-by-13-by-1½-inch) well with oil.
Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. With floured rolling pin, roll dough into rectangle, about ½-inchthick. Carefully transfer rectangle to prepared pan. Spray enough plastic wrap to cover dough with cooking spray; let stand 20 to 30 minutes in warm place until dough rises and almost doubles in size. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400°F.
Remove and discard plastic wrap. With fingers, make deep indentations about 1 inch apart over entire surface of dough. Lightly brush top of dough with oil, then sprinkle evenly with salt and herbs. Bake about 25 minutes or until top is golden brown and focaccia’s underside is golden. Cool focaccia slightly in pan on wire cooling rack. Cut into rectangles to serve warm. Yields: 8 to 10 servings.
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