Farmstead Cheese Hoping for Boss Entry into Northern Michigan Market

Dairy’s Farmstead Cheese Hoping for BOSS ENTRY

into Northern Michigan Market

By Bev Berens

Boss Dairy is making a place for future generations in the dairy industry through ownership transition and a farmstead creamery. Pictured back row from left: Bud and Judy Boss, Mandy and Matt Thompson. Front row from left: Milo, Harvey, Ma-

zie, and Caiden Thompson. (Photo provided)

Michigan will soon have another local food option thanks to Boss Dairy and its entry into the artisan cheese and local foods space under the name of Charlevoix Cheese Company. The owners anticipate production to begin sometime this winter.

The Charlevoix-based dairy is owned by Judy and Bud Boss and their daughter and son-in-law, Mandy and Matt Thompson. The expansion is spearheaded by Mandy and Matt, who are fourth-generation owners. It is their answer to sustaining future generations, including their four children, Caiden, Harvey, Mazie and Milo, on a 250-cow Centennial Farm in a volatile dairy industry.

“We brainstormed for our future for a long time,” Mandy said. “Do we grow cow numbers? Do some sort of niche market? We enjoy farming and want to continue the farm for multiple generations, if they want to. We talked to many experts in the value-added markets, and the marketing analysis helped us decide that making cheese on-site from our own herd of cows would be our best successful avenue. Besides, we love cheese and love the opportunity to be able to make the product.”

A centerpiece cheese is yet to be determined but will likely be an Alpine-style Gruyere. First cheeses to hit the market once production begins will be curds and quark - a fresh, soft white variety similar to cream cheese. Mandy explained neither curds nor quark require aging and can be sold immediately to start returning income to a long process of capital outlay.

“There are a lot of upfront costs,” she said. “You need a building and a lot of stainless-steel equipment to make the cheese, and of course you aren’t getting any income until you have a licensed facility. As the timeline extends, the challenge and the stress of the upfront costs increase.”

An MDARD Value-added Regional Food Systems grant and a USDA Value-Added Producer grant have helped bridge some of the gap and cover some of the larger startup costs.

From the beginning, the Bosses have worked with Sanitary Design Industries, a firm dedicated to helping artisan cheese and meat businesses and startups with facility design, product recipes and consulta-

tions. Neville McNaughton, president and CEO, is a world-renowned artisan cheese maker and has developed recipes for some of America’s other famous artisan cheese makers.

Once a centerpiece cheese is selected, it will take a year to adjust and tailor the perfect recipe to fit the farm’s feed, cattle breed and production system and develop a flavor signature that is unique to Charlevoix Cheese Company. Matt will be the head cheese maker and has attended Michigan State University’s cheese making school.

McNaughton also provided consultation on plant design, including the three distinct aging rooms inside the plant. It was built from the inside out, first creating the airtight aging rooms, then constructing a steel building around them.

There are few farmstead cheese makers that create product exclusively from their own herd’s milk supply, according to Mandy. A true farm-to-product system like Charlevoix Cheese brings many more regulation layers.

“We must become a licensed milk sampler and hauler and have a licensed screening lab to test the milk,” she explained. “The milk cannot flow underground, so we have a stainless-steel raceway from the barn to the plant that is 14 feet in the air. Many regulations haven’t been updated in 40 years, so we are trying to be forward-thinking and progressive in our standards to prepare for the future, and sometimes that has taken a lot of advocacy and persistence. Michigan Farm Bureau has been a big help in navigating EGLE regulations.

“What we’ve learned, if anything, is to communicate with everyone, don’t try to just do it and ask forgiveness afterwards. Involve inspectors on every level, the cooperative, the township, financing and any consulting businesses from the very beginning to set yourself up for success.”

The goal for opening may be winter, but Matt and Mandy have given up establishing a hard timeline. Availability of equipment and delays in shipment for equipment that is available have taught the family to rely on faith. “We’ve learned it is not our timeline, but God’s, we fall back on trusting His plan even when we don’t know what that is,” she noted.

Local food is an ideal fit in northern Michigan wine country because artisan cheese and wine are the perfect flavor marriage. Local wineries and numerous farm markets dotting the Bay area have already expressed interest in including it within their retail stores and for quick appetizers to use with wine-tasting experiences. The family plans to attend local farmers’ markets first, with hopes of on-site retail in the future.

With only a sign in front of the building indicating the construction as a future cheese plant, Mandy is encouraged by the number of calls received thus far and looks forward to the time when real product is ready to sell. The stakes are high not only for the family but for a declining dairy industry in danger of extinction in Charlevoix County. This diversification means the potential for meaningful employment if desired to the next generation, local job opportunities and reinvesting money locally.

“The cheese plant spreads sustainability into a ripple effect with potential future jobs,” she said. “Other farm markets who carry our product will add to their sales lineup and potentially profit from it. Bringing that to our community is a great benefit.”

Retaining and developing a farm business for future opportunities requires a vision for a future that may be many years away. The immediate future of Charlevoix Cheese Company is in the hands of Matt and Mandy, but they are digging into long-term vision for the

entire family. Pictured from left: Matt, Harvey, Mandy, Caiden, Mazie and Milo Thompson. (Photo provided) Winter 2022 Michigan Dairy Cattle News 9