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May 2012
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VIOLET www.violetzine.co.uk @violet_zine
Editor In Chief Daisy Tinker daisy@violetzine.co.uk Creative Director & Stylist Olivia Tinker olivia@violetzine.co.uk Online Editor Vinh Nguyen hello@violetzine.co.uk
With thanks to: Barbara Frankie Ryan, Amelia Pemberton, Charlotte Hoyle, Emily Hoyle, Jenna Wortham, Thessaly La Force, Emma West, Lydia Line, Dolly Garland, Ed Manley, Lara Tutton, Emma Orlow, and Kate Williams for all your contributions and help. Also, a special thanks to Peter Quinell and Alice Quinell-Fletcher; quite possibly the most helpful family I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with. Finally, thank-you to my twin sister Olivia; for all the inspiration and support you’ve given me over the last 20 years. Without your artistic vision, patience and ridiculous sense of humour this magazine would never have been finished, or even created. The (less uptight) Rebecca to my Enid.; best friends forever. I dedicate Violet to you, with love.
Front Cover Illustration by Olivia Tinker
All rights of this publication are reserved by VIOLET zine. All artwork is copyright of the contributing artist and may not be repriduced without their explicit permission. No part of this publication may be produced or transmitted in any form or by any means, meachanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher. The views expressed in this publication are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the publication or its staff. - THE ENID ISSUE -
WE ARE VIOLET ISSUE 1: ENID COLESLAW We like customising clothes and have a girl crush on Drew Barrymore circa 1996, when she incessantly wore daisy clips in her hair. We’re girls who love girls; we appreciate Britney Spears in double denim and Courtney Love’s continued crazy antics. From Gwen Stefani to Dawn Weiner, to Tracey Emin to the Queen, each issue we’ll strive to bring you the coolest of female icons; taking their life, style and work to inspire our content. We know you’re clever and cool, just like each of these wonderful women, so each issue we’ll nourish your need for creative and interesting features, including thoughtful articles, trend lead photoshoots, DIY How Tos and gorgeous illustrations; no embarrassing stories and problems pages here. This month we’ve chosen the weirdly wonderful Enid Coleslaw, so look out for novelty clothing, features on diary keeping and interviews with other young creatives, just like Enid herself. Enjoy!
Drew Barrymore
Melanie Chisolm
Heather Matarazzo
Queen Elizabeth
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Issue 1: May 2012
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VIOLET ZINE: THE ENID ISSUE
- Our Style Icon -
ENID: OUR SECRET STYLE ICON
Not one to follow the fashion herd - Enid Coleslaw is our perfect style icon, and that’s why we chose her for our very first issue. Primary colours, middle partings and chunky black ankle boots; Enid wears the kind of kooky, transitional 90s/2000s fashion we proclaim to hate, but secretly love. Her wardrobe is a volcano of rainbow retro pieces and classic 90s wear washed down with punky accessories and an apathetic teenage sensibility. Flitting between styles, she doesn’t limit herself to any particular look or label; instead, creating new looks from old clothes and reworking past trends. Granny’s wardrobe to prim school style; who knows what Enid will wear tomorrow? There’s no look she can’t pull off or is too shy to try - with a sprinkle of her magic even home-dyed green hair can look good and we simply love it! Quite clearly we’re not the only ones - Thora Birch’s Ghost World character was famosly the inspiration behind Luella’s 2007 Geek Chic collection, and more recently her grungy school girl vibe has been felt across catwalks and streets alike. Couragous, cool and often questionable, we wish we were Enid’s best friend so we could raid her closet! Bravo, Mary Zophres for Enid’s amazing costumes (we want to raid your closet too!)
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“I just hate all these extroverted, obnoxious, pseudo-bohemian losers.” - Enid, Ghost World
An Enid Coleslaw themed issue wouldn’t be complete without her iconic blue Raptor tee. We dedicated a whole page to the thing; here it is in all its glory.
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TREND ALERT Just like Enid, we take pride in our appearance. Taking inspiration from her cartoonish ensembles, we introduce to you our favourite new trends.
All images of Thora Birch from Ghost World, 2001
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“IT’S OBVIOUSLY AN ORGINAL 1977 PUNK ROCK LOOK, BUT I GUESS JOHNNY FUCKFACE OVER THERE IS TOO STUPID TO REALISE” - Enid, Ghost World
- TREND -
KITSCH QUEEN
Fanta earrings: www.junkieloversboutique.com, £4. Lipstick in Beguiled: www.topshop.com, £8. Pink flatforms: www.asos.com, £75. Oliva heart sunglasses & Mustard dotty bow: www.moki.co.uk, £10 & £3. Daisy by Marc by Marc Jacobs, Petite on the go bottle: www.selfridges.co.uk, £25 . Lilac motif t-shirt by Meadham Kirchhoff: www.net-a-porter.com, £130
VELT NO
The outcome of when Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff befriended 15 year old blogger Tavi; lately, we’ve been going crazy for the bonkers novelty trend. Consisting mainly of cartoon prints and bright colours, we think Enid would approve of this eye-wateringly colourful trend. Not all summer shades though, a healthy splashing of 90s grunge keeps the look modern; we especially love a slick of lipstick in some gothic colour or other to ofset all the raindbow ensembles. Seen at Meadham Kirchhoff, Prada, Ashish, Holly Fulton and Giles last season, now novelty has made its way to the streets alike (and that’s not even mentioning ASOS who have an amazing Novelty section of their Marketplace - definitely check that out.) It seems we’re all dying our hair to My Little Pony shades ( lilac is our clear favourite though dusky pink is a close second) and digging out the garish rainbow coloured jumpers that were forced on us as children. We’re going for a Mini Mouse vibe.
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MISMATCHING PRINTS
If you like to stand out from the crowd as much as Enid does, then take a hint from her crazy wardrobe and invest in a lary printed piece; there’s so many lush ones to choose from, especially from many cheaper designer lines like Marc by Marc Jacobs and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel. Don’t invest in just one mindblowingly bright piece though; what’s the point of wearing one wonderfully wacky accessory when you could wear five? Zebra, leopard, python, polka dot, stripe, hawaiian... with so many glorious prints on offer, we’re seeing just how many different patterns we can wear in one outfit (much to the distaste of our Mums.)
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- TREND -
PRINCE CHARMING
Orange polka dot scarf: Sonia by Sonia Rykiel at www.net-a-porter.com, £85. Waikiki Hawaii print Nail Rock foils: www.asos.com, £8. Red polka dot purse: Comme Des Garcons at www.net-a-porter.com, £90. Mint zig zag print Converse: Missoni for Converse at www.converse.co.uk, £220. Black and white Bengali watch: Kid Robot x Swatch at www.swatch.co.uk, £44.50. Red rpython print umbrella, Marc by Marc Jacobs at www.liberty.co.uk, £40.
- ART -
GAGA FOR DADA
We took inspiration from these Dada inspired adverts for our shoot on page 48, using layers of pretty images & illustrations.
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“I’m going to a remedial high-school for fuck ups and retards” - Enid, Ghost World
As you read through this issue of Violet, one this we’re sure you’ll notice is our new found love of collage art. We just can’t get enough of it over here at Violet: cutting and sticking is our current favourite pass time. We love spending our evenings chopping up the latest looks and re-pasting them into freakish (but very well dressed) alien looking people with giant features, Inspired by world renowned Dadaist movement, it seems everyone is going a bit crazy for collage (see the gorgeous adverts for Prada and Stella McCartney opposite.) The early 20th century art movement was renowned for their random cut and stick techniques, and because of this their style became known as anti-art. Their chaotic, mixed media montages symbolised their rejection of logic - they didn’t care if their work meant anything, they just wanted to have fun, and it’s this mentality that what we appreciate the most. Though the Dadaist movement was only popular for a few years until around 1926, we have noticed some modern artists who are using similar techniques. Ashkan Honarvar sticks grotesque images of organs alongside delicate flowers and pretty women to create absolutely beautiful images.
ABCD by Raoul Hausmann, Grotesque by Hannah Hoch, Vanitas & Creed by Ashkan Honarvar
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She has better hair than you, a better career, and more than likely, a hotter boyfriend too. You follow her life and work: you want to look like her, to be her, or her best friend at the very least. Along with most other women, you have a girl crush: an overwhelming adoration, but totally non sexual idolization of another female, and you’re not alone... Illustration by Charlotte Hoyle
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The ‘90s was supposedly the era of Girl Power, but here at Violet, we’d like to disagree. With such strong, successful and more importantly, talented female role models today, we’ve got more reason than ever to love being a girl, and in a recent trend of female admiration, have a few girl crushes too. Elizabeth Olsen, Charlotte Gainsbourgh, Courtney Love, Jenny Saville, Nigella Lawson, Kate Middleton and Rihanna (of course!) are just some of the women whose names surface in girl crush territory, and we can totally see why. Talented artists, award winning actresses, platinum selling singers and brilliant writers, many of us can only dream of a life like theirs; recognised for their talent, creativity, beauty and style. We admire these women; their successes and ability in their chosen fields, and we’re not ashamed to admit: we’re totally girl crushing. Jenna Wortham and Thessaly La Force, know all about a bit of woman-loving. Founders and Editors of Girl Crush Zine,
they f e a t u r e women discussing their female role models. They’re not ashamed to admit when they think another woman is really cool, and have in fact turned this recent trend to their own success. As they say: “It’s about to get really girly.” “One day, the subject of girl crushes came up and it clicked for both of us. We began to think about what it’d be like to reach out to our girl crushes; and thus was born the zine.” “To me, a girl crush is a way of saying someone is your role model, or that your admire them or want to emulate them without being super earnest or self-serious. I don’t think it’s an innate attraction; I think it’s a way to describe a healthy admiration for another woman or peer.” Co-editor Thessaly tells us, who currently names Leanne Shapton and Lena Dunham as her main female fancies. So where has all this woman loving come from? Over the past few years, celebrities in particular have been championing their contemporaries. F r o m
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“A girl crush is a way of saying someone is your role model” - Thessaly Wortham
Cheryl Cole and Rihanna who admitted to mutual admiration over Twitter, to Katy Perry’s I Kissed A Girl and of course the Britney and Madonna fiasco of matching t-shirts and public snogging. It seems we followed their lead; girls aren’t shying away from a bit of light lesbianism. In a recent survey we carried out, all the lovely ladies we spoke to said they had a current crush; from Azealia Banks to Kathleen Hanna, and various members of the Spice Girls. We’re all obsessed with different ladies, though often for the same reason: we want their success, style and clothes too. One participant noted: “Girls get girl crushes partly because of envy, partly identifying with someone’s aesthetic and look.” We have to agree: more often than not, it’s about the clothes, isn’t it? Who wouldn’t
want Sofia Coppola’s endless Marc Jacobs outfits, or Tracey Emin’s Vivienne Westwood collection? They have access to the kind of wardrobes we’ll spend a lifetime working for, and that’s what we suppose, makes a girl crush different to a full on fancying. Lara Tutton, an English student at UCL noted. “I think the majority of girl crushes aren’t based on actual sexual attraction but a weirdly asexual kind of fascination and desire - a bit like how you fancy boys when you’re in primary school! They are usually on famous women that are not only super attractive but are inspirational and have enviable lifestyles, perhaps reflecting a desire to want to be like that person, as well as want the actual person themselves!” Though the majority of female fancying does occur with someone in the public eye (over 90% according to our research) that’s
Pictured: Elizabeth Olsen, Courtney Love and Nigella Lawson were all named as crushes by our readers
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not to say that it’s totally limited to celebs. Maybe when you were 12 it was your friend’s older sister, or the coolest girl in the year above who wore make-up and had high-heeled school shoes. Now it might be your thin friend from university who always gets higher marks than you, or a work colleague who has the perfect pair of smart, highwaisted peg-leg trousers and never spills her lunch. Though less common, a suprising amount of girls admitted to a girl crush on someone they knew - usually for the same reasons of jealousy of their career successes and fashion sense. Often, it starts with a sister, a best friend, then later, maybe someone else you know according to Jenna, the other half of the Girl Crush Zine duo. While some thought this threw up questions about the crusher’s sexuality, we actually think this is much healthier than
idolising someone famous who you’ll most likely, never even meet (who’s probably not half as cool in real life, and probably has spots just like the rest of us.) Anyway, what’s more flattering than admitting to a girl crush on a gal pal? Most women seek the approval of other women, rather than men, especially when it comes to their appearance. We think that secretly (or maybe not so secretly anymore) this is the validation all girls are looking for the compliment of a friend noticing your achievements and giving you snaps for your couragious fashion efforts.
Yes, we did just quote Clueless.
Pictured: Britney and Madonna’s infamous snog at the 2003 VMAs.
- INTERVIEW -
DOOBY DOLL www.doobydolls.co.uk When a creative 12 year old made personalised dolls as Christmas presents for her family, she wasn’t expecting them to become a must have gift and accessory of celebrities. Seven years on, 19 year old creator Amelia Pemberton has turned her kooky beauties into a thriving business, naming Florence Welch, Giles Deacon and Hilary Alexander as customers of her handmade Dooby Dolls. Violet talks to the lady herself about how it all got started. For those who don’t know you, tell us a bit about yourself. I am now 19 and am at Falmouth University in Cornwall, studying Fashion Design which I am loving. I like having tea parties, making things, being spontaneous, going on adventures on my bike and early morning swims in the sea. Have you always been a creative person? Yes! It's the only thing I have ever concentrated on or found important.
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How long does it take to make each one (in particular the Dooby Dolls 'To Look Like You' which are incredibly detailed?) They take a day or two to make depending on the designs and the fabric, as all materials are sourced individually for each doll - I find the small detailed parts everywhere and anywhere! I have just been collecting over the years from Antique stores and charity shops and sometimes Shepherd's Bush Market.
Which has been your favourite? Doobydoll To Look Like You (where Amelia creates miniature Dooby Doll versions of people - Hilary Alexander is amazing) is probably my favourite as I love all the different comissions I get: I love a challenge. Other than that my favourite one was when I had to make the founder of Ted Baker - Ray Kelvin. I got someone at Ted Baker to send me some of the fabric the morning dress he wore to receive his award was made out of, so I had to make a tiny weeny bespoke tailored Dooby Doll morning dress which was amusing. He loved it very much too. Which celebrity would you most like to make a 'To Look Like You' doll of? Paul Smith - he is the man I want to be. You've obviously been really successful already, but what has been your biggest achievement so far? Thank you! Well, I would say my biggest achievement was when I had my very own launch party at Shoreditch store ‘NO_ONE’, that was a special day and also doing this collaboration with Eley Kishimoto where I had to make 300 dolls on my own - it was a mission but I did it! I created a sweat shop in one of our rooms in our house and lived there for a few days. As you’ve said, you've collaborated with Eley Kishimoto - but is there anyone else you'd like to work with? Well, keep your eyes peeled there will be a new collaborated Doobydoll soon but at the moment it’s TOP secret. What's the future for Dooby Dolls? Who knows, but I shall keep them going as long as I can!
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BFF
Enid and Rebecca are Best Friends Forever, so we decided to interview two galpals about their creative achievements and artistic dreams. Meet Amelia Pemberton, the brains behind designers must have accessory, Dooby Dolls, and later, read about her friend Barbara Frankie Ryan, the creator of super cool BFR Zine.
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DEAR DIARY... As a society we’re putting down out notebooks, no longer writing letters or keeping notes of our feelings in private Young women have kept diaries for decades, loyally writing
entries about high-school crushes and horrible teachers. With the decline of note-keeping however, more and more of us are turning to social networking sites, unhealthily sharing our inner most thoughts and fears with the world. Have we all become emotionally slutty; willing to bare and share feelings which we should perhaps keep to ourselves? Or are we simply more open than before? Violet investigates...
You know the deal. You sign onto Facebook, you check your notifications, reject a few invites to Farmville and begin to flick through your news updates. You see breakups, a lot of make-ups, a few cringy hook-ups, and of course, the inevitable feeling over-share that so many of us are guilty of today. These usually fall into 2 categories: the first being the completely boring and irrelevant happenings in someone’s life: a missed bus, a broken umbrella, a bad haircut that looks more like a mullet than a trendy short ‘do. The second, and more offensive, refers to the type of upset that really shouldn’t be shared over a social networking site: broken marriages, drug problems and childcustody issues. Now I know, as a Brit myself, there’s nothing we love more than a cuppa
and a good grumble - about the terminally dull weather, delayed trains and irritating but inevitable occurrences of life. We’re a nation of whingers, whiners, complainers and grizzlers, but never before have these diatribes been more visable than they are now. As a society, we’re putting down our biros; no longer writing letters or keeping notes of our feelings in private. We’ve given up on late-night diary-keeping, squinting through the darkness to ink down ponderings, hopes and dreams that we barely tell ourselves, let alone anyone else. In fact, it seems we’ve become all too comfortable dishing out our drama to all of our ‘friends’. Who cares if your boss knows you cheated on your boyfriend, or that your best friend has suddenly turned into a bitch thanks to a sarcastic and
“It’s important to keep a journal because it can be a powerful tool for personal growth.” - Dolly Garland, Journal Addict Blog
capitalised rant you posted yesterday? In fact, the term ‘rant’ has become used almost souly to describe this phenomenon, of lengthy and embarrassing diatribes found on social networking sites. “URGH, I just got in and my computer kept saying insufficient bandwidth when I was trying to stream TOWIE, so I kept having to refresh it, and THEN I realised my Mum hadn’t washed my favourite dress so I couldn’t wear it out to Oceana for Louisa’s birthday. Argh! Rant over!” So, why are we all on a mission to moan and more importantly, why subject our friends to reading about it everyday? “Writing down our feelings seems to help the brain regulate emotion unintentionally. Whether it’s writing things in a diary, writing bad poetry, or making up song lyrics that should never be played on the radio, it seems to help people emotionally.” Dr Matthew
Lieberman said, a psychologist who recently explored the ‘Bridget Jones Effect’. According to this discovery, named after the hopeless diary-writer in Helen Fielding’s column for The Independent (and of course the subsequent film franchise) recording negative feelings can actually help the brain regulate emotions; helping you deal with whatever the problem may be. All very well this may be - but shouldn’t some things be reserved for private, personal reading? Sharing feelings are all well and good, but writing them in a diary - kept hidden in a bedside table - is surely a better solution. One lady who would agree is Dolly Garland, founder of Journal Addict blog. “Public journals such as what you might find on social networking are usually an excuse to vent. My private journal is a lot of things to me: it is a place to vent, but also it’s a place to brainstorm, it’s a place to
Emma West kindly let us photograph her many beautiful notebooks - THE ENID ISSUE -
repeat myself, or a place to record my excitement. It’s a place to note ordinary events of my life, and special ones. It’s my progress meter of how I develop in life. It’s my goal keeper for my ambitions. For me, not keeping a journal is not an option.” According to Dolly, not keeping a pen and paper diary is “unthinkable” - and she often uses them to solve problems that she might not have realised she even had: “It’s important to keep a journal because it can be a powerful tool for personal growth. When we are stuck in a rut, we either don’t know it, or can’t see a way out; a journal can help with all of this and more.” Another person who also swears by diary keeping is Emma West, a student who has kept a diary on and off over the last 5 years to record everything from feelings to outfits she wore at 6th form, things she did while she went travelling and even an “extremely emo phase of writing poetry”.
Not only did diary-keeping help her view problems in perspective, she also found them a great way to remember feelings and events she had otherwise forgotten. Although the benefits are clear, only 6% saying they do it regularly. This seems shocking, when Facebook has nearly 500million daily users; sharing their lives with the whole world. Someone who knows all too well about venting through social networking sites is Ed Manley; an English student at UCL. Manley noticed a growing trend in the number of people using these platforms to air their personal drama, so in one study he scoured Twitter to create a graph of angry tweets - using swear words as a meter for discontent. “People use [Twitter] to vent their anger and problems, there are people around to hear and read their grievances so they may get a bit of emotional support from others. Twitter also adds a layer of
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Our favourite cartoon character has an endless merchandise empire including this cute Parisienne pad www.whsmiths.co.uk
Vivienne Westwood always has loads of lovely notebooks and diaries to choose from but we love this classic plaid one www.viviennewestwood.co.uk
impersonalisation – people may feel happier communicating about these issues over the digital interface than in a more personal setting.” The problem with these social networking sites, it seems, is that they openly encourage us to share - and they make it so easy too! With more that 250 million of us accessing Facebook, Twitter and other sites through our mobile phones - venting has never been so easy, and we’ve never had such a large captive audience to listen to our complaints. It’s all too tempting to tap in a swear word here, a sarcastic comment there, with the goading invitations of What’s on your mind? and What’s happening? spurring us on. With so many gorgeous notebooks to choose from today (have you seen the lovely Lanvin illustrated versions, or the plaid covered Vivienne Westwoods?) we can’t think what could be better than jotting down everything into one over used and well loved diary. There’s
nothing more pleasing than seeing a full and battered notebook covered in someone’s thoughts and sketches. This is how the people at Moleskine feel anyway, and have recently created an Artist Marketplace - somewhere you can go to buy and sell cusomised versions of their leather-bound books. “Moleskine has increasingly had the pleasure of seeing users posting and sharing images of their creative customized Moleskine notebooks and covers. The volume and reach of these personalized artworks has been inspirational, exceeding anything we could have predicted.” Whether they’re carved, collaged, embroidered or painted, it seems clear that while some people are moving away from the art of notebook keeping - others are embracing it, leading the way in a small but passionate minority. Maybe more of us should take a leaf out of their book and invest in some good old pen and paper. RANT OVER.
In true Harriet The Spy style we’ve picked this classic black and white composition notebook www.staples.com
Lanvin’s gorgeously illustrated notebook. We don’t pick favourites but... www.net-a-porter.com
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We think there’s just something so pleasing about snooping through people’s well worn notebooks; we had a field day taking these Illustration by Charlotte Hoyle pictures of student, Emma West’s diaries (but don’t worry Emma, we didn’t read them!) - THE ENID ISSUE -
FIVE FAMOUS DIARY KEEPERS In spirit of Enid’s incessant diary writing, we’ve looked at 5 famous notebook keepers who are renound for their scribbling.
ANNE FRANK
BELLE DU JOUR
Perhaps the most renowned diary keeper of all time; Anne Frank received the famous red and white checked signatures book for her 13th Birthday which she used to record her family’s time in hiding. Recording not only the difficulty and fear of living in hiding from the Nazis, her entries also detail her journey into an teenagehood, and k has since been read by over 7 million people.
Writing under the pen name Belle Du Jour, Brooke Magnati found a more modern way to keep a diary. Writing her blog, Intimate Adventures of a London Call Girl, she recorded her time as a high-end call girl. She managed to keep her identity hidden for 6 years while she worked as a research scientist.
r eF Ann
Originating from Helen Fielding’s Independant column of the mid 90s Bridget Jones’ fictional 30-something character is an avid diary keeper. Noting alcohol units consumed, cigarettes smoked and the not so innocent flirtings with her boss, the column later became the book and film franchise we know today because so many women empathised with her ramblings on hopeless men and indulgent eating.
er Pip
HARRIET THE SPY
Marked with the word ‘Private’, H a r r i e t used her iconic black and white Composition le l e Mich notebook to record observations about her classmates and the local Chinese deli boy. Watching Harriet The Spy run around with her trusty notebook turned a generation of girls into avid diary keepers (including us.) Tr ac hten bery
Ze llw egger
BRIDGET JONES
Billi e
ee Ren
Syl via Plath
SYLVIA PLATH
World renowned journalist, author and poet, Sylvia Plath kept journals for the majority of her life; many of which have been published since her suicide in 1963. She also used them as a reference whilst writing her most famous work, The Bell Jar; a semi-autobiographical novel which plots protagonist Esther Greenwood’s spiral into depression and mental illness.
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THE WRITING’S ON THE WALL
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INSPIRATIONAL, AESTHETIC, OR SIMPLY AS EYE CANDY, MANY OF US POST THINGS ON OUR BEDROOM WALLS. MAGAZINE CLIPPINGS, LETTERS, GIG TICKETS, PHOTOGRAPHS OF DAVID BECKHAM; WHATEVER IT IS; IT SEEMS THAT JUST LIKE ENID WE’VE GOT A CRAZE FOR COLLAGING, PASTING UP POSTERS EVERYWHERE AND KEEPING MEMORIES AROUND US IN HOME-MADE WALL MURALS. VIOLET INVESTIGATES. Picture Enid’s room: it’s covered. Every wall hidden behind pictures and clothes and odd bits and bobs that hold no significance to anyone other than herself. Now this is no new trend, to the annoyance of their parents, teenager’s rooms have always been completely bombarded in memorabelia, photos of old friends and band merchandise. Lately, though we’ve been wondering why this is so often the case; what do these colourful wall collages signify, and why do we create them? Do they even mean anything at all? “It’s easy, fun and can be changed and altered without effort.” Collage artist Peter Quinnell told us, who has been working with the medium for over 25 year. “Collage just happens when you bring a few things together - and you can see it around you all the time.” As fickle teenagers who change their likes and dislikes more often than Nicki Minaj changes her hair colour, sticking things to your walls is a simple, easy and more importantly, cheap method of decorating your room to match your current obsessions. Magazine clippings and band posters can easily be ripped down and replaced,but they look pretty effective when all stuck together and can be used an an outward symbol of your personality. We think this is the case for Enid anyway (and the case for the supressed Lisbon sister’s in Sofia Coppola’s beautiful The Virgin Suicides; such pretty religious iconography!) A strong-willed, creative character, a plain wall simply wouldn’t do. No magnolia, biscuit or warm stone, Enid’s colourful room portrays her chaotic, out of the ordinary character that we love so much! We wouldn’t take her seriously as a kooky art student if her bedroom
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walls were bare, it just wouldn’t make sense. The same goes for many other characters in films and TV programmes; set designers often used this medium to subtly represent their personality. We’ve noticed a few really good examples of this; particulartly angry feminist Kat Stratford in 10 Things I Hate About You. What would represent her miserable personality and frustration at teenage life better than her sombre wall of dark artwork and band flyers? They set the perfect backdrop to scenes of her sulking on her bed, wondering if Health Ledger really fancied her.This couldn’t have been better ofset than with the bedroom of her younger, more innocent sister, Bianca, whose clippings were neatly aligned on a pinboard next to pictures of purple butterflies. Those clippings won’t be tearing down wallpaper or leaving a circular pattern of paint that’s had bluetack stuck to it, no no no.They were carefully arranged in a neat, pastel collection of aspirational Teen Vogue shoots and Cosmo front covers, the typical teenage girl - just like Bianca’s character. If you’re not in a film though and don’t have a set designer, in real life, sometimes moodboarding can be a simple joy of teenagehood; pasting pics
of David Gandy over the Care Bear wallpaper you picked out when you were 10 and thought Cheer and Wish Bear would be your BFF. It’s more practical than anything else, the main plus point to a poster being its ability to cover a large space of pastel pink wall in one go. (See Andie Walsh’s bedroom in classic film Pretty In Pink, where artwork and fashion clippings cover her marshmallow walls as she dreams of being something more than a gawky teen.) Emma Orlow, a student, blogger and artist from New York who writes The Emma Edition blog, knows all about this sort of wall art. A lover of flower power, milkshakes and drawing, 16 year old Emma has collaged her walls for years, mainly for inspiration. “My collage wall is a collective of inspiration for what I put on in the mornings, and philosophies I want to keep with me throughout the day. I like that my collage walls are an art form with an expiration date; I’m always tearing down bits that I feel no longer represent who I am or what I’m vibing; just like my blog or my sketchbook it reflects the stage I am at right now in my life.”
“My walls are an art form with an expiration date; I’m always tearing bits down that I feel no longer represent who I am.” - Emma Orlow, Blogger
1. Puppy cushion: Urban Outfitters, £30. 2. Pink cuckoo clock: www.thegiftemporium.co.uk, £16.95. 3. Fruit bedding: H&M, £14.99. 4. Rose light shade: velvetstore.co.uk, £15.
Emma’s mural has changed and developed as she has; in earlier years is was all about Audrey Hepburn, and a lot more girly. Now though, it reflects her new love of the 60s. “There were a lot of transformations that occurred during that era, so there are lots of AndyWarhol and Lichtenstein calendar cut-outs and quotes on my wall...there’s also photos of musicians I love such as Beach House, The Beatles, Bob Dylan and M.I.A, however my favourite thing on my wall is a photograph of an elderly couple making out atop a plaid picnic blanket... My wall is really important to me.” Someone else who really appreciates teenager’s bedrooms is Kate Williams who founded the super cool Teenage Bedroom Tumblr. This is THE place to go to appreciate wonderfully over decorated rooms that are completely inspirational and often full to bursting of 90s memorabelia and twinkly fairy lights - very Juliet Capulet’s candle lit room in Baz Lurman’s 1996 remake. She welcomes readers to send in pics of their rooms; showing off the best of teen-bedroom-wall-collage-art that we all seem to love. (We thought we’d take a leaf out of her book and invite you all to send us pictures of your prized walls. We weren’t disappointed, and have included them with this article for your appreciation) Contributors to her Tumblr write about how much they love being able to express themselves through their rooms, with a medium that’s much more creative and personal that just wallpapering or painting it a certain colour. We think you can tell a lot about a person by their room, afterall a wall collage can really speak a thousand words; revealing what bands you listen to, the magazines you read and who your best friends are. More than that though, decorating your walls with stuff is such an act of teenagehood; reveling in youth and the freedom not to care about colourschemes and floral wall paper motifs. Surely, it’s the biggest rejection of adulthood, completely opposing your parent’s carefully designed decor. (Take our tip though, just make sure you’ve fully left home before you decide to take it all down. Let’s just say you’ll be needing a metal scraper and some polyfiller. ) Sorry Dad.
- IT’S YOUR TURN -
We asked you to send in pics of your gorgeously decorated rooms: here are our favourites!
ALICE’S ROOM Alice Fletcher Quinell clearly inherited the artistic gene. Daughter of Peter Quinell, the lovely artist who we spoke to earlier, her room is a delicious array of pictures and memories she’s collected over the years. The perfect mix of eclectic, colourful and just a tiny bit messy, Alice is a girl with just our kind of style - we particularly love the Miffy lamp (which she hijacked from her Mum) and will now be looking for one for Violet HQ!
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- THE ENID ISSUE -
“The Minnie mouse ears are from Disneyland Paris; I went when I was about seven and I remember being extremely excited about going and meeting Minnie Mouse!”
THE ENID ISSUE: WE LOVE STUFF
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- IT’S YOUR TURN -
EMMA’S ROOM
http://theemmaedition.blogspot.co.uk/ Blogger Emma Orlow’s room is just the kind of girly, poster filled thing we love. Covered in mag clippings, postcards and invitations; we can’t get enough of her wall murial. One thing she particularly cherishes is the Mad Hatter Tea Party invitation (bottom right of the picture below), which was an invitation she received to go to an Annual Ice Cream for Breakfast Day. “I remember thinking as I looked around at all of the grown-ups giddily decorating their ice cream sundaes, “THIS is the kind of party I want to have when I am older.”
“I’m really into the 1960s and all of the transformations that occurred during that era, so there is lots of any warhol and lichtenstein cut-outs on my wall.”
- IT’S YOUR TURN -
OLIVIA’S ROOM
http://thingsyoushouldworship.blogspot.com/ “I’d hate to have a really plain room, which is why I’ve filled mine with so much stuff!” Our very own stylist Olivia Tinker told us. “Because it’s so small, I’ve had to find ingenious ways of storing all of my clothes, magazines, shoes, books, accessories, which means utilising every bit of space.” Using posters and stickers she picks up each time she goes on holiday to cover her plain furniture and walls has really made the room her own, and we love her choice of inspirational mag clippings.
“I love having so much stuff surrounding me in my room; all my shoes, my artwork, photos of my friends... displaying everything that’s important to me like a museum of my life.” We think olivia’s room looks gorgeous; especially the shelf below where she keeps all her favourite things
NASTY GAL www.nastygal.com
BEDROOMS WE’RE JEALOUS OF Say hello to the world’s best bedrooms; we can only dream of rooms like these!
Marie Antoinette
Champagne bottles and tiny cakes everywhere; Marie Antoinette’s bedroom is perhaps the room of our dreams. With miles of luxurious silk and numerous maids on hand to make the bed, we’re sure her room always looked fabulous. It certainly did in Sofia Coppola’s film version anyway.
Carrie Bradshaw Over the series we saw many redesigns of her small studio apartment, but our favourite was probably its total re-haul in the first film. Transformed into a modern woman’s home with, we loved the gorgeous artwork and $200 cushions everywhere. Set decorator Karin Weisel did an amazing job turning the tiny space into a room we were completely jealous of; including of course her infamous walk in wardrobe stuffed full of Choos!
Enid Coleslaw
Margot Tennenbaum
Margot’s wardrobe is filled with Lacoste and shiny Russel and Bromley style loafers. All her plays are neatly lined up on a shelf ready for reading at any minute. Her bedroom is a fancy affair with lots of dark wood and chandeliers, but then what would you expect from a woman who only ever wears a fur coat and always has perfect hair?
Enid’s room is packed out full of random objects and memorabilia. In typical teen style, there’s clutter galore on every wall; we’re suprised that she can actually wade her way through in time to pick up her (amazingly see-through) phone.
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Cher Horowitz
Surely every teenage girl wants a room like Cher’s; namely one with a humungous walk in wardrobe that actually has a computer to pick out perfectly matching outfits for you. Enough said.
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Where are they now?
REBECCA
More than 10 years on from the film, we’ve been pondering on what Enid and Rebecca would be wearing now; two piece pant-suits as boring business women who finally gave into the dull 9-5? Full time Mums in high-waisted jeans and ugly jumpers? Or still their kooky selves, rocking granny dresses and crochet beanie hats? And would Rebecca have finally ditched the hairbands?
Investment Chic With Enid gone, Rebecca could finally become the normal person she always wanted to be. She has a job as some sort of office type person for a big company so she wears a lot of smart pieces which transfer from day to night. A necessity for work; she wears nice heels to the office or smart brogues, but sometimes might jazz it up with a bright overcoat or accessory. With money to spend, Rebecca can afford to invest in simple but chic pieces which will last a lifetime, so she often buys designer. She has a soft spot for plush leather bags, and particlarly loves this custard yellow one from Prada which she brought with her bonus. - THE ENID ISSUE -
ENID
I used to think about one day, just not telling anyone, and going off to some random place. And I’d just... disappear. - Enid, Ghost World
Statement Prints As a high-school drop out who had to take a summer-art class, we doubt Enid would be rocking any high-flying job that would require kitten heels and pencil skirts. When she hopped on the bus at the end of the film, she went in search of somewhere away from the judgement of her boring, unnamed American city, finding somewhere she could really be herself. Living above and working in a thrift store somewhere, getting paid in clothes rather than money; her wardrobe has grown extensively, full of bold prints and old tie-dye t-shirts. She still wears quite ugly shoes, but has swapped her thick rimmed black glasses for some prettier styles. - THE ENID ISSUE -
“
- INTERVIEW -
I just liked making stuff so I started making zines; they’re so accessible, all you need is some paper and a photocopier.
“ BFR ZINE
B
arbara Frankie Ryan puts most 19 year olds to shame. Queen of the zine scene; she’s already been making BFR for 4 years, which has been featured by The New York Times, Vogue and Dazed and Confused to name but a few. Last year she organised a Girls+Zine exhibition with Tatty Devine and, Oh, and did I mention she counts Lorraine Candy as a fan? I chat to the lovely lady herself about tap dancing, her famous father and the future.
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Maybe it was all the sugar from the lemonade she was drinking, or maybe she was just happy to finish uni for the day, but Barbara Frankie Ryan is hard to pin down. A lively, smily, excitable jumble of knowledge and hilarious anecdotes, she’s definitely interesting to talk to, but hard to get any specific answers from. Jumping from one story to the next, she keeps you enthralled, eagerly listening (and laughing) as she chats, merrily away. I ask Barbara to introduce herself and her background (for the sake
- INTERVIEW -
We love the back cover of Issue 19
- THE ENID ISSUE -
of my dictaphone) and she begins telling me about herself and her life. She didn’t really realise she was starting a zine she explains, when aged 15 she began putting together little booklets of drawings and leaving them lying around the house for her older sister to find; the first issues of BFR. Her sister gave approval though, stamping it with that highly-coveted-from-an-eldersibling: “this is quite cool” so she carried on making more issues. And so Barbara Frankie Ryan zine was born. When recalling the story, Barbara seems shocked that it all started so many years ago, counting them up as she talks, with a thoughtful look on her face. “I’ve been making zines since I was like… 15, so yeah 4 years, 5 years. I just liked making stuff so I started making zines; they’re so accessible, all you need is some paper and a photocopier. I think with my first issue I made like 10 copies, and I’d take them into school. If I saw someone cool I’d give them one!” As we chat, I notice that this type of ballsy confidence seems to be a bit of a trait of Barbara’s “A few years ago, I’d be going to London Fashion week and I’d be in shows putting my zines in the goody bags for the front row - like sneaking around! It was quite good though because it was actually a really good way to get people to talk about it.” The daughter of famous artist Rob Ryan, many might think it’d be easy for the young talent to succeed with such a wealth of artistic influence and fabulously creative contacts. Quite the opposite though; Barbara makes it clear that she’s very independent and has always made things happen for herself. “When I first started making BFR people would say it was quite cool, telling me I should send it to loads of people, so literally, we’d get all the magazines sitting in my room, and we just wrote to every editor and sent
it to them in the post. I kept doing it for ages and ages and ages, and I just kept sending them even though I didn’t hear anything back.” “Me and my friends are so opportunistic though, if we’re at a party like if we see Paul Smith we’ll just go over and give him a copy. The worst thing that’ll happen is that he’ll throw it away.” That seems to be one of the main perks about creating a zine in Barbara’s eyes; the ease of making something small, mainly for yourself and your friends. BFR - named after herself, Barbara Frankie Ryan, when she had a bit of an obsession for abbreviations - is fairly simplistic in it’s format; filled with cute ponderings and scribblings that she chooses from her many trusty notebooks, she usually prints it at home, in black and white, photocopying it from her personal photocopier that her parents brought her for Christmas.
Mostly I don’t really care about what I’ve done, I’m more looking forward to the future.” “It doesn’t matter if it’s a bit shit or whatever! I can just make it whenever I want – it’s quite nice when you’re doing something for yourself and don’t have any deadlines. It’s quite selfish really. I’ve been making it for so many years – at first I was mad for it! At first I was just printing them from a photocopier! I’d just get my friends round and be like ‘hey do you want to come round, I’ll cook you dinner…oh look there’s all this folding work to do! Can you help me fold BFR!?’ So we’d print them all and hand fold them. And I used to hand sew all of them too – I used to print only like 10 of each issue. I was so oblivious to everything then, but
- INTERVIEW -
now I’m so self aware.” For someone so self aware, Barbara is very free: as we chatted, I couldn’t help but think how alive she seemed, how proactive. Nothing seems to stop her or hold her down – she thinks up an idea, and simply makes it happen. Through out our conversation, she mentions numerous hobbies and current interests that she’s ‘mad for’ - a phrase which excitedly punctuates her stories of pen pals, making furniture and tap dancing classes. “I’m just creative, I just really like making things.” She explains, when I ask about her creative family – besides her Dad, her Mum is also in the industry, making teddy bears from recycled denim and selling them through her online shop. Not that she thinks her famous father has had any particular influence on her own artistic work, though I do see a lot of similarities in the simplistic but sentimental aesthetics of their work, and I notice her handbag is one of her Dad’s designs, as she pulls out a pile of zines to show me. She flicks through each one, pointing out things and telling me about each one. Her favourite is They Don’t Know It Yet, a fashion zine made by her friend, Urban Outfitters designer and former costume maker of Florence Welch, Verity Pemberton. Verity used the same Fashion Week front row technique to promote her work, so the two were always bumping into each other. Suprisingly then, Barbara tells me she’s not really a fashion fan anymore, despite having worked at Giles Deacon, Elle Magazine, and dressed at Fashion Week since she could remember. Her outfit; the perfect mix of dressed down cool with cute pineapple hair sprouting from the top of her head, would make me think otherwise, but she assures me that her current style simply consists of literally finding what’s clean to wear on her bedroom floor, mixed with a lot of denim and trainers.
“I like denim a lot – because my mum makes teddies out of denim so when our friends upgrade their jeans they keep all their denim and give it to my mum! She’s got this whole room with a long cupboard full of all our family friend’s jeans and jackets. Apart from that... I’m just like really plain. And trainers! I quite like high tops at the moment! My friend has the best trainers, they’re Converse low tops but they’re creepers,” she hurridly explains, twisting round my notebook and borrowing my pen so she can draw me a little picture of them. “Oh, and at the moment I really like Dolce and Gabanna’s pasta earrings!” Putting away the zines she’d brought to show me, I ask wonder where BFR is heading, and more importantly, when the next issue will be coming out. “Ermm I don’t know!” She says unsurely, taking a few seconds to think of a response. “Maybe collaboration? I’m trying to get to the 20th is-sue done in time for our 5 year anniversary next year! 2013! I’ve done a cover for it… (gets out her phone and shows me a hand drawn picture – Things are alright when you’re 19) I love it so much! But yeah maybe I’ll just make it! I’ll just do it. Mostly I don’t really care about what I’ve done, I’m more looking forward to the future.”
BFR Zine is definitely one to read. Nearly in its 5th year - and 20th issue, Barbara Frankie Ryan handmakes each one from her bedroom and draws it all by hand. They come out sporadically so check on her website to make sure you get your hands on a copy!
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http://bfrmag.bigcartel.com/
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Photographer: Chloe Miles Model: Lydia Line Stylist: Olivia Tinker
ts, florals & h ea d
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Red Adidas hoodie: Adidas; £52 Delicate silver tiara: Claire’s; £5 Navy blue sailor cape: Stylist’s own Grey jumper with lilac sleeves: Asos; £30 Pastel geometric print dress: Asos; £45 Mint green hair bow: Stylist’s own Pastel shag bands: Stylist’s own Green printed kimono: Vintage Yellow paisley bandau top: Stylist’s own Purple floral hairband: Stylist’s own Gold peace necklace (worn as headpiece): Stylist’s own Printed polo neck top: Asos; £12 Grey pencil skirt: Asos; £28 Navy blue primpsolls: Topshop; £22
-FEATURE -
“YOUR LITTLE OLD GRANNY PHASE” - Rebecca, Ghost World
Here at Violet, we appreciate style at any age, and many of our top fashion icons are well into their senior years (including our own Nans.) Take Iris Apfel for example (Queen of these self proclaimed “geriatric starlets”) a totally chic and eccentric 90 year old who’s just collaborated with MAC and enjoys an oversized pair of glasses or two or three... We appreciate their refined, often outlandish attire; after all these are women who have amassed amazing wardrobes over the years, they know what looks good. There seems to be a bit of a division in Fashion at the moment. On the one hand, brands are choosing ever younger models to star in their advertising campaigns: Hailee Steinfield for Miu Miu and Elle Fanning for Marc Jacobs for example, both of which are under 16. However, on the other, slightly more wrinkled hand, more light than ever is being shone of the wonderfully dressed older ladies of our fashionable cities, in large part, thanks to Ari Seth Cohen and his blog Advanced Style. Cohen prowls the streets, often in his hometown New York, on the look out for fabulously fashionable women to photograph, and here’s the catch - everyone he snaps is over 40. He has some regular ladies - both Lynn Dell and Rita Ellis Hammer pop up every so often in their brightly coloured splendor - but aside from that every person who features are just amazingly dressed, regular women (and sometimes men too!) The blog’s been so well received that its actually been turned into a book, and has just been launched in America to huge sales. It’s not just Ari Seth Cohen who’s been appreciating these stylish older ladies however - 90s supermodel Kristen McMenamy has been having a bit of a comeback over the last few months. At 47, with long silver locks, she’s not a typical look model but that hasn’t stopped her being featured in McQs first ever catwalk show only months ago, and she’s since been chosen as the face of Mac’s new range Reel Steel and Roberto Cavalli’s S/S 2012 range. All photographs by Ari Seth Cohen from The Advanced Style Blog advancedstyle.blogspot.com Illustrations by Olivia Tinker
We’re not ones to deny a trend, so we’ve asked our very own Olivia Tinker to share her impressions of our favourite, fashionable older ladies, and that’s just what she’s done! - THE ENID ISSUE -
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We appreciate their refined, often outlandish attire; after all these are women who have amassed amazing wardrobes over the years
LYNN - THE ENID ISSUE -
- D.I.Y -
D.I.Y How To Make a... CHUNKY CHAIN BRACELET 2.
1. Gold chain link bracelet; H&M, £3.99 2. Two bobby pins 3. Scissors 4. Atleast 2 colours of embroidery thread (we used 4 for extra colour) four times the length of the bracelet
Tie together 2 lots of 15 strands of thread. Attach a bobby pin to each strand
Place strand 2 over the top of strand 1, then place the bobby pin through the second link
Line up the bobby pin through the first chain link, ready to pul through
Repeat the entire way down the bracelet, ensuring you pull the thread equally tight the whole way down
LL N E E D U WI YO
We always used to make friendship bracelets for our pals with multi-coloured thread, so we thought we’d show you how to make this grown-up chain version.
1.
4.
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Pull strand 1 through the first link of chain, keeping the knot close to the bracelet
At the end, tie the same knot that you used in step 1, ensuring it’s really tight. Then snip off any excess.
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LL
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D.I.Y How To Make a... Gemmed Phone Cover NE
ED
1. The perfect kitsch accessory for any I-Phone, this How To is great for jazzing up plain phone cases. Simple and cheap, it costs just over a tenner, and only takes a few minutes to create.
2.
1. Yellow phone case: H&M, £3.99. 2. UHU Extra Strength: Pullingers, £3.79 3. Bag of gems: Creation Station @ Pullingers, £5
3. 1.
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Firstly, lay out the gems as you want them onto the phone case
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Then, individually take each Repeat until every gem gem off and cover the back has been stuck down, with glue, making sure you covering the case avoid getting any on your fingers (it’s super strong!)
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Leave to dry for 5 minutes, then begin dotting glue onto each side, ready for the smaller gems
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Stck gems along each side, until the entire case is covered, leaving gaps for the charger and headphone outlets
Leave to dry for a few hours until each gem is strongly secured. enjoy!
- THE BEST OF THE...-
THE BEST OF THE NOUGHTIES
As Ghost World was made in 2001, we thought we’d take a look back on the best (or arguably the worst) of noughties fashion and style icons.
UGLY HEADWEAR
DENIM (DOUBLED)
BUFFALO BOOTS
UGG BOOTS B*Witched in denim
JLO
The Spice Girls
The infamous buffalo boots as championed by ultimate icons the spice girls
Christina Aguilera
Von Dutch caps and bandanas, the noughties was surely the decade of ugly headwear
Britney Spears& Justin Timberlake
denim, Double denim, triple denim,we couldn’t get enough of it in 2001.
Ugg-ly boots were all the range in the early 2000s. unfortunately they’re here to stay
e
ay
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Who was a teen of the noughties without investing in at least one of the hideous trends below? (We had all of them!) BURBERRY PRINT VELOUR TRAKKIES
FLOWER COURSAGES
Daniella Westbrook wearing Burberry
Paris Hilton in Juicy Couture
Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex&The City
Alex Curran Victoria Beckham wearing Burberry
Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex&The City
Coleen Roony in Juicy Couture
Juicy Couture dressed every D-List celebrity in rainbow velour. so wag-chic.
That burberry print which almost ruined the iconic british brand had its heyday in the 00s
Think Carrie Bradshaw and you immediately think of her incessant flower coursages.