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Wines with altitude

Alsace is the driest part of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains. Historically, the region was German, and Germanic influences can still be seen in the fairy-tale architecture, the cuisine and most importantly, the wine!

The wines of Alsace are overwhelmingly white, with a little red made from Pinot Noir. There is also a significant amount of sparkling wine, Crémant d’Alsace, made by the traditional method and excellent value. Alsace wines are, by law, served in the German-style tapered ‘flute’ bottle and, unusually for French wines, display the grape variety on the label.

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“Intense flavours of blossom, apple and that telltale petrol” varieties, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Muscat in Alsace is dry and aromatic but there is little of it as the grape is prone to disease. Gewürztraminer is highly aromatic, with roses, stone fruit and spices prevalent on the nose. Its acidity is quite low, with a full body and high alcohol. It would be higher but fermentation is stopped to retain some sweetness.

Familiar favourite

Did you know?

In 2019 the region produced over 140 million bottles of wine!

Pinot Gris is the Alsace name of Pinot Grigio. A far cry from the Italian style, here in Alsace with its long, dry autumns, this variety produces wines of great complexity, more body and usually a touch of sweetness. However, the truly great variety of Alsace is Riesling. Quite different from those produced on the other side of the Rhine, here the wines are dry, often with high alcohol. Acidity is balanced by intense flavours of blossom, apple, lime, peach and, over time, that tell-tale petrol.

Three to try

Domaine Schlumberger ‘Spiegel’ Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru AC 2019 (Majestic £17.99) Great texture and depth of flavour.

The widely planted Pinot Blanc can make decent wine but rarely reaches the heights of the four ‘noble’

Cuvée René Dopff, Dopff & Irion, Riesling, Alsace AC 2019 (Tanners £13.99) Wonderful aroma of green apples and vine flowers. Taste the Difference Gewürztraminer, Alsace AC 2020 (Sainsburys £10) Bursts with notes of rose petals, exotic lychees and spices. Gary leads informal and structured professional wine-tasting events at Shropshire Wine School. www.localwineschool.com/shropshire

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