40 minute read

Sea Dreaming

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8 6Sea dreaming Bring sunny skies and wide horizons into your home with nautical hues and coastal touches

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1. Seahorse design bath tray, £75, Meg Hawkins in Shrewsbury, Shropshire; www.meghawkins.co.uk 2. Coastal Stripe double duvet cover, £85, Secret Linen Store; www.secretlinenstore.com 3. Mila round mirror, £49.99, The Range; www.therange.co.uk 4. Shallow ceramic bowl, £10, Roobarb in Bridgnorth, Shropshire; www.loveroobarb.co.uk 5. Mini Moderns Whitby wallpaper, £50 per roll, Jane Clayton & Company; www.janeclayton.co.uk 6. Urchin jug, £45, OKA in Knustford, Cheshire; www.oka.com 7. Seagull on stand, £8.99, Cheshire Homewares; www.cheshirehomewares.co.uk 8. Nautical stripe shade, £4.99, The Range; www.therange.co.uk 9. Starfi sh door knocker in polished brass, £43.99, British Ironwork Centre in Oswestry, Shropshire; www.britishironworkcentre.co.uk 10. Coastal Collection pictures, £69.95, Cousins Furniture in Shrewsbury; www.cousinsfurniture.co.uk 11. St Eval Sea Salt tin candle, £11.50, The Silver Pear in Ludlow, Shropshire; www.silverpear.co.uk 12. Everhot 100i electric range cooker, £8,365, RN Williams in St Asaph; www.rnwilliams.co.uk 13. Starboard lamp, £16.99, Shore & More; www.shoreandmore.co.uk 14. Rustic rope doorstop, £16, Make your House a Home in Whitchurch, Shropshire; www.makeyourhouseahomewhitchurch.com 15. Beachcomber wooden fi ve-drawer chest, £219.99, Rattan & Teak; www.rattanandteak.co.uk 16. Waves cushion, £19.95 (RRP £29.95), Cousins Furniture in Shrewsbury; www.cousinsfurniture.co.uk 17. Anchor doorstop, £44.99, British Ironwork Centre in Oswestry; www.britishironworkcentre.co.uk 18. Handmade fused glass boats, £12 each, Julie Barmer Glass; www.folksy.com/shops/juliebarmer 19. Seahorse pendant lampshade, £67.50, The Silver Pear in Ludlow, Shropshire; www.silverpear.co.uk 20. Miniature wooden beach huts, £4 each, RNLI Shop; shop.rnli.org

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BRINGING IN THE LIGHT

When Ray and Fiona from Whitchurch decided to add an orangery to their new home to make the most of their garden views, they turned to Premier Windows of Oswestry

Ray and Fiona moved to Whitchurch from Cheshire at the end of 2019, after falling in love with their new home’s garden.

“When we came to see the bungalow, it was a nice sunny day,” says Ray. “The garden is large and west-facing, so we get a lovely sunset through the trees at the bottom. The house had been extended but it hadn’t been

properly looked after for a few years. It was quite tired, so we knew it was a project.”

Great garden views

Good start

their showroom we already knew we needed new windows – the old ones were uPVC but were in a poor state with old-style glass and handles that didn’t work. The roof liner and fascia boards were all rotten too.

“Gary came to look at the property and get a feel for what we were trying to do. For the design, we looked at different aspects of the examples in the showroom and then Gary explained how the design and construction would work.

He told us what type of roof lantern we could go for and what size it could be – he basically said what was technically achievable.

That reassured us that Premier really know what they’re doing.” “The garden is why we wanted the orangery,” Ray continues. “The only thing out there was some The light brickwork old decking, which we had ripped up. I wanted to be able to enjoy the garden.

“We asked two companies to quote for the orangery, one of whom was Premier Windows. I liked the feel of Premier as a family business, and Gary the sales guy was very helpful. When we went to see them at

Looking smart

Ray and Fiona decided to use a different colour brick on the orangery from the rest of the house. “Fiona just liked that colour,” says Ray. “It complements the brick under the bay window at the front

“The of the house, too. It looks smart light they with the colours of the windows bring in is and the anthracite roof liner. phenomenal” “We went for a very big lantern, and side windows for more light. The orangery is 5.5 by 3.5 metres, which is a big floor space – we wanted somewhere we could sit with the whole family. The roof has wooden beams and is about 1.5 metres thick, which gives it insulation, and we’ve had underfloor heating put in so we can use this room all year round.” After Premier finished, the landscaping could be completed. “We’ve got the pathways in and I’m hoping we can soon get the messy stuff done and concentrate on the nurturing side,” says Ray. “We’re putting a greenhouse in. I plan to enjoy my retirement growing old out there!”

Saving energy

Gary at Premier Windows says: “We designed the orangery to have an energy-saving warm roof. All the frames and glass are A-rated, too, and the construction and installation were thoroughly checked at every stage by building control. A certificate was issued at the end of the build.” “We originally looked a bifold doors, but we’ve had them before and found we didn’t have them fully open that often, so we went for French doors with the wider panels on the side,” says Ray. “The light they bring in is phenomenal – they frame the garden beautifully.

Following various Covid-related delays concerning the planning, Premier Windows finally broke ground on the orangery in mid-September last year.

“It was pretty much all done by the end of January!” says Ray. “It would have been even quicker but there was a delay – Covidrelated again – with supplying the lantern.”

Ray and Fiona chose French windows

Local Food Tastes Better!

From artisan cheeses and award-winning meat to delicious fresh produce and wonderful wines, ales and ciders, Shire’s regions are bursting with fl avour and people are really starting to appreciate the gourmet greatness that surrounds us

The way we shop and eat is changing. Where once we relied on supermarkets to supply our every want and need, consumers are increasingly realising that far better culinary options are being produced on our doorsteps. Yes, supermarkets are convenient, but they also deliver mass-produced, impersonally packaged food that has been shipped across the globe, often at the expense of quality and taste.

Local food, on the other hand, is fresh and produced to the highest standards by local artisans who work hard to keep us fed in style. And with customers becoming ever more discerning in their tastes, there’s a noticeable shift away from massproduced products and towards locally grown and sourced food.

“There is absolutely more interest in local food now than ever before,” says Hannah James, events manager at Ludlow Food Festival. “It’s wonderful to see people really engaging with local food producers and caring more and more about where their food comes from.”

DID YOU KNOW? There are more than 700 named cheeses produced in the UK, but cheddar accounts for more than half of all sales

“There is absolutely more interest in local food now than ever before, and it’s wonderful to see people really engaging with

Shifting Perspectives local food producers and caring more and The reasons for these changes in attitude are multiple. In part, it’s about provenance and traceability – people want to more about where their food comes from” know where their food comes from. We are also increasingly aware of the ways in which our food choices affect the than not the smaller, independent food environment. And we also just expect more from our plates. producers who kept going. The pandemic

“First and foremost, local food tastes better,” says Stephen Wundke, founder has allowed some of these small producers and CEO of Taste Cheshire. “Secondly, people like to have a connection to the to really grow and be more successful producer and know this is a real product. And finally there is a real kick back than ever – it’s wonderful to see.” against the multinationals, who appear to dominate trade.”

We also shouldn’t underestimate the impact Covid has had on people’s shopping Perfectly Placed preferences, with more people choosing to shop local since the lockdown last Here in the rural west of the UK, we’re March forced us to take stock of what is available on our doorsteps. perfectly placed to enjoy a range of “Covid flagged up how insecure culinary delights. From luscious Welsh our global food systems are,” says lamb and hand-reared beef to acres of Hannah. “When the supply chains fresh vegetables and speciality cheeses of big businesses failed at the start such as Cheshire and Shropshire blue, of the pandemic, it was more often the Shire region is home to a thousand delicious flavours and there are treats for the taste buds wherever you turn. DID YOU KNOW? The Romans introduced wine-making to England and tried to grow grapes as far north as Lincolnshire If you haven’t already tried buying locally, there couldn’t be a better time or place to start.

top reasons for loving local food

• It tastes better

Most food at a farmers’ market has been picked within 24 hours, which means it’s at its freshest and tastiest.

And because local producers don’t have to worry about transportation and shelf life, they can focus on what’s really important: growing their products to ensure the highest standards of freshness and taste.

• It’s healthier

Local fruit and veg contain the most nutrients because they spend less time in transit from farm to plate.

While supermarket produce has to be grown, treated and processed with longevity in mind, local food can be allowed to ripen fully, allowing consumers to enjoy food that’s rich in colour, flavour and nutritional value.

• It’s in season

A seasonal diet helps us to reconnect with nature and supports our bodies’ nutritional needs. In winter hardy, energy-dense vegetables keep our immunity and energy levels at their peak, while in summer water-dense fruits such as strawberries and cucumbers keep us hydrated.

• It supports the local economy

Buying local food keeps money in your area, supports local farmers and producers, and helps to create jobs. This in turn helps local, rural communities to flourish.

• It’s good for the environment

The average item of fresh food travels 1,500 miles to reach your supermarket – that’s a large carbon footprint! By buying from local sources, you reduce the need for transportation, use less fuel and generate fewer greenhouse gases. You also reduce waste, as food is less likely to get spoiled on its journey to your table.

• It’s more likely to be organic

While large-scale agricultural operations routinely spray crops with pesticides, local farms often prefer organic and natural pest repellents. As locally grown food doesn’t need to be preserved for transportation, it doesn’t need to be treated with preservatives either.

• It promotes tourism

Great food attracts a crowd, and food tourism brings visitors and money to a region. From brewery tours and farmers’ markets to cookery classes and food festivals, people want to learn about local culinary specialities and are prepared to travel to find them.

• It unites communities

Food brings people together, and local food builds more connected communities. Creating links between farmers, producers and consumers builds accountability and transparency, allowing customers to know where their food is coming from and producers to know who is buying their products. Food events also bring like-minded people together.

HOW TO EAT LOCALLY

There are lots of ways you can support local producers and sample delicious, gourmet food. Here are some ideas

FARM SHOPS Visiting a farm shop is about more than just shopping: it’s a culinary experience in itself. With shelves glinting with jars of chutney, the smell of freshly baked bread filling the air and an array of mouth-watering cheeses, meat products and sweet treats on display, it really is a feast for the senses. It’s also one of the best ways to buy local, as farm shops are stocked with products that are locally grown and produced. At

Ludlow Farmshop

for example, 80 per cent of the food Ludlow Farmshop sold comes from Shropshire and the surrounding counties, and around half is made on site. All the shop’s beef, lamb and Gloucester Old Spot pork comes from its own farm, along with the milk used to make the cheese and dairy products. Visitors are also able to see artisans making the food through windows throughout the shop.

Shrewsbury’s Battlefield 1403 Farm Shop also uses beef and lamb produced on its own estate. As well as offering a range of great seasonal produce, home-grown or locally sourced in Shropshire, the Battlefield 1403 site is home to one of the best Battlefi eld 1403 Farm Shop butchers in the UK, a well-stocked deli counter and a café serving homemade fresh food, making it one of Shropshire’s top foodie destinations. FARMERS’ MARKETS Britain’s first farmers’ market was established in Bath in 1997, and there are now more than 550 across the country. As well as enabling local farmers and growers to sell their produce directly to the public, such markets allow shoppers to pick up not only the freshest local produce but also a range of other products including locally brewed beer, speciality cheeses, fruit liqueurs and preserves.

Wirral Farmers’ Market has been running for over 20 years and is widely regarded as one of the best in the country. The market, which has won many awards including Market of the Year at the BBC Food & Farming Awards, attracts more than 30 stalls selling meat, fish, vegetables and treats, and also has K

a café where you can take a break from shopping. Other popular markets in the area include

Conwy Farmers’

Market, which is held in the beautiful surroundings of the RSPB Conwy nature reserve on the last Wednesday of every month, and Nantwich Farmers’ Market, which takes place on the last Saturday of the month and attracts farmers, growers and producers from all over Cheshire.

Home Delivery Schemes If you don’t have the time to get to a farm shop, why not get the farm shop to come to you? The popularity of home delivery schemes has soared during the Covid pandemic, with more and more people choosing to have fresh and organic produce delivered direct to their door.

Babbinswood Organic Farm in Oswestry, Shropshire, offers a range of vegetable boxes priced from £10 to £30, as well as fruit boxes, eggs, butter and even meat deliveries. Numerous other local farms started offering deliveries as a means of distributing their products while the shops remained closed. Malpas Farm Shop, family butchers for more than 100 years, sells a vast selection of meat online for home delivery, and even smaller outfits such as Oteley Estate in Ellesmere, Shropshire, are getting in on the action; Oteley offers premium beef and lamb boxes that can be purchased from its website and delivered to your home.

Pick Your Own You can’t get fresher than food you’ve picked with your own hands, and pick-your-own (PYO) farms are a popular attraction for those who want to gather produce right from the source. Bellis Brothers in Holt, near Wrexham, has long been famous for its strawberries, and people have been picking their own fruit there since 1967. There are more than just strawberries on offer. During the summer months, visitors are invited to pick raspberries, gooseberries, blackcurrants, redcurrants, tayberries, loganberries and rhubarb, while in October the fields are open for PYO pumpkins.

Malpas Pick-Your-Own also offers strawberries and pumpkins, while Bearstone

Fruit Farm

Have veg delivered to your door

Buy fresh meat online Fruit from the fi eld near Market Drayton in Shropshire offers a range of seasonal fruits and vegetables, as well as new potatoes.

Food festivals Bringing together all manner of artisan food producers in one place, food festivals give you the chance to try new flavours, hear from the producers themselves and rejoice in the culinary delights produced in the region.

Ludlow Food Festival was established in 1995 to encourage visitors to the town and highlight the fantastic independent producers in the region. Since then the festival has gone from strength to strength. Today, it brings together 180 independent food and drink producers from across the Marches and attracts more than 16,000 foodies to the town. Other popular food festivals include the Shrewsbury Food Festival, which brings together producers, chefs, performers and entertainers in Quarry Park, and the Great British Food Festival at Arley Hall, Cheshire.

Independent Shops From bakeries and delicatessens to fishmongers and butchers, small independent shops are not only the beating heart of our high streets, they are also the perfect place to find delicious, locally produced delicacies.

Porter’s Delicatessen in Llangollen sources the very best cheeses, charcuterie, gourmet foods and hard-to-find ingredients for the benefit of both local and visiting shoppers. Its shelves are a treasure trove of unique and speciality ingredients, so if you can’t find what you’re looking for in the supermarket, try an independent deli.

Ludlow Food Festival

Porter’s Delicatessen

Top Tips for farm shopping

• Do your research

Find out where your nearest farmers’ market and farm shops are based at www.farmshop.uk.com.

• Find out what’s in season

The produce at local markets will vary across the seasons, so make sure you know what to expect.

• Plan ahead

Freezing, bottling, stewing and batch-cooking are all great ways to preserve seasonal produce.

• Be prepared to be flexible

You might not come away with everything on your shopping list. Embrace it and try new things!

find the Region’s Best…

Strong heritage

MEAT From scrumptious sausages to a juicy steak, a good piece of meat can really make a meal. With so much delicious, home-reared meat on our doorstep there’s no need to rely on imports.

High standards

also work with a qualified chef to develop new ideas and recipes and prepare its range of fresh ready meals. Dairy Shropshire and Cheshire are both famed for their cheese, so it’s no wonder it is one of the region’s most popular and sought-after products, locally and further afield. Cheese has been made in the Shire area for many generations and there are a number of producers that draw on this rich heritage while continuing to produce cheese to the highest standards.

Belton Farm

One of the region’s best- in Whitchurch known meat producers, Rhug has been making Estate Organic Farm in Belton Farm cheese for more Corwen, Denbighshire, is a than three generations in the heart of Shropshire, and true field-to-plate operation. combines handcrafted techniques with the latest technology Using the most sustainable to make products of great quality and consistency. farming practices, Rhug rears Appleby’s Dairy, based at Hawkstone Abbey Farm in Rhug Estate’s organic selection organic beef, lamb, bison, chicken, turkey, goose and Marchamley, near Shrewsbury, has been making awardwinning cheese since 1952, using milk from the cows game when in season on its 8,000 acres of farms. Its organic meat that graze the lush pastures of the Shropshire plains. is sold online and at the Rhug Farm Shop, and served in its café as well as in Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. “From scrumptious sausages to a juicy steak, a good piece of meat can really make a meal. With New contenders With the artisan cheese market ever Brisbourne Geese also rears its animals to the highest welfare so much delicious, home-reared meat on our expanding, it’s not only the wellstandards. The family-run farm near Nesscliffe, Shropshire, has doorstep, there’s no need to rely on imports” established companies that are thriving. been rearing animals for Established in 2005, more than 80 years and now Moyden’s Hand Made Cheese, based in Wistanswick also rears beef and sheep as near Market Drayton, has fast become a well-respected well as Christmas poultry. artisan cheese-making business. Drawing on traditional “We pride ourselves on our cheese recipes and poultry having a good life using local Shropshire while on our farm,” says milk, Martin Moyden William Brisbourne. “They has developed an are reared on the farm from extensive range day-olds, and all our birds are of cheeses named free range and farm fresh.” Brisbourne Geese after well-known Shropshire towns Prepared with flare and landmarks, each With so much locally reared meat, it’s no wonder the region with a story to tell. Moyden’s Hand Made Cheese has produced some of the finest butchers in the country. Jamie Snowdonia Cheese Ward is one such butcher who has been producing delicious Company – established in 2001 in Llanrwst, Conwy – has meat products for many years, first with wholesale sausages achieved similar success. The company was created with and bacon and then from his family-run shop in Chirk. the aim of producing a luxury range of Welsh cheeses, and

Edwards of Conwy is another family-run business with a the products found immediate success at locals farmers’ reputation for excellence. The multi-award-winning outfit, which markets. The colourful wax-coated truckles are now widely has been named Britain’s Best recognised, popping Butcher and Best Butcher’s up on restaurant Shop in Wales multiple menus the world over. times, brings together a master butcher, bakery K and deli under one roof on Conwy High Street. It’s particularly famous for its pork pies, and its butchers Edwards of Conwy Snowdonia Cheese Company

DID YOU KNOW? The gimlet cocktail – gin and lime juice – was invented by the Royal Navy to prevent scurvy refined, premium whisky – the first to be distilled in north Wales for over 100 years – as well as a premium range of smallbatch, handcrafted gins and liqueurs.

DRINK Good food deserves to be accompanied by a delicious drink, and Shire’s regions are bursting with vineyards, distilleries and breweries that produce some of the best beverages around.

Gin, glorious gin Grape and grain

Wine lovers are well catered for by vineyards such as Kerry Vale Vineyard, which covers six acres in Pentreheyling, Shropshire, and Wroxeter Aber Falls Distillery Roman Vineyard near Shrewsbury. If a stiff pint is your poison, there are plenty of great ales and ciders to search out too. Snowdon Craft Beer in Colwyn Bay With the meteoric rise in “Good food deserves to be accompanied by a uses water from the Snowdonia rain gin’s popularity, it’s hardly delicious drink, and Shire’s regions are bursting basin to produce surprising that we’ve seen a raft of new craft with vineyards, distilleries and breweries” its cask, keg and bottled beers, while distilleries open across the The Stonehouse area. From Tappers on Brewery in the Wirral Peninsula to Three Wrens Gin in the Cheshire Oswestry produces a small range of classic and countryside and Wardington’s Ludlow Gin, which creates distinctive beers, many of which are award-winning. handcrafted premium Set up in 2007 by Shane and Alison Parr, the brewery gins from the heart of has expanded over the years and now has the capacity the Welsh Marches, there to produce 100 brewer’s barrels – that’s 28,800 pints! are lots of companies – a week, along with cider, whisky, vodka, brandy and to choose from, and award-winning gin. That’s something for everyone! some are now enjoying national and even international recognition. Shire Gin, produced by The Shropshire Distillery, has won two International Wines & Spirit Competition awards, which set the benchmark for quality in spirits worldwide. The gin, expertly crafted by Wardington’s Ludlow Gin season’s greetings Emma and Gareth Glynn, was first released One of the world’s fi nest producers in July 2018. From its of sea salt can be found in Anglesey humble beginnings in the “Gin Shed” at the Glynns’ home, production has recently moved to a new, purpose-built distillery in Ellesmere, allowing Emma and Gareth and Emma Glynn Gareth to expand their range of events, tours and experiences.

Totting it up

Those who prefer whisky to gin needn’t travel far for their favourite tipple either. Penderyn Distillery produces awardwinning single malt whiskies and spirits in Pontbren Llwyd in the foothills of the Brecon Beacons. Aged in the best American oak bourbon casks, the whisky – which has won more than 50 Gold Medals – has a worldwide reputation and is now sold in more than 40 countries. Further north, Aber Falls Distillery in Abergwyngregyn, Penderyn Distillery Gwynedd, produces Halen Môn was founded in 1997 following a happy accident. David and Alison McCreadie left a pan of seawater to boil – as the salt crystals formed they knew they’d struck culinary gold.

The couple started supplying Halen Môn Sea Salt to Swains, their local butcher in Menai Bridge, and today their sea salt is enjoyed around the world by chefs, food lovers and even Barack Obama! It has been served at the London 2012 Olympics, political summits and royal weddings, is a vital ingredient in Green & Black’s chocolate and Pipers Crisps, and can be bought in more than 22 countries and the UK’s best delicatessens.

Food&Drink

Try a different cut for a new flavour

Chef Alec Gilmour and his team at the Clive Arms in Bromfi eld, near Ludlow, use high-quality ingredients from the Oakly Park Estate and amazing cuts of meat from Ludlow Farmshop. Here he shares one of his favourite cuts of beef

At the Clive Arms, we all share a love for good-quality, honest food and we like to let the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves. We serve local, seasonal and therefore very flavoursome dishes. While our walled garden provides seasonal vegetables, our onsite butcher at Ludlow Farmshop gives us access to the best-quality cuts of pork, lamb and beef, all raised on the estate.

Shin is one of my favourite cuts of beef and is often overlooked and underrated. It may be cheaper than some other prime cuts, but it’s by no means less delicious. Although longer and lower cooking is required to get the best out of the cut, if done right the flavour and texture is fantastic.

Llangollen’s family-friendly dining destination the Three Eagles has reopened its doors, once again serving lunch, dinner and drinks in its spacious courtyard. There is plenty of cover – and heaters! – plus the usual attentive table service.

The updated menu includes firm Three Eagles favourites, including the Black Sheep burger and an array of the finest steak cuts from local butcher Stanley Jones. New additions include a Thai salmon noodle salad and the JCB burger – an adaptation of the legendary Three Eagles JFC Karaage chicken starter.

“While it’s important to ensure our menu remains relevant and seasonal, one constant runs through our ethos – the strong relationships with our local producers and suppliers,” says Adam Gaunt-Evans, chef and director at the Three Eagles. “We collaborate with some fantastic partners to meet our high standards. Our meat comes from local butcher Stanley Jones, fruit and veg is from Llangollen-based Dee Valley Fruit & Veg, and our specialist Welsh produce from is Castell Howell Foods. We continue to work with many more independents to deliver a great experience to all who visit us.”

Braised beef shin

Ingredients

500g beef shin, cut into 1in steaks 1 litre beef stock 1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 medium carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 2 sticks of celery, chopped 1 clove of garlic, peeled and sliced 1 bay leaf 1 small sprig of thyme 1 star anise

Method

1. Heat your oven to 150°C/gas mark 2, and season the shin steaks on both sides with salt and cracked black pepper. 2. Brown the steaks on both sides in a frying pan with a little oil.

Ensure a nice rich brown colour to maximise fl avour – about

three minutes per side should be plenty. 3. Remove the steaks from the pan and place in a deep roasting tray with the vegetables, herbs and star anise.

Deglaze the frying pan with some beef stock and pour into the roasting tray, then add enough stock to cover the meat and vegetables. Place baking paper over the tray and double wrap in foil. Cook for at least three hours – the longer the better. 4. When the meat is tender, remove from the oven and allow to rest in the cooking liquid for 10 to 15 minutes. 5. Remove the meat from the tray and strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a pan. Bring the liquid to the boil and reduce slightly. You can thicken if you wish, but I prefer the lighter texture. Season if required and pour into a jug. 6. Serve the meat alongside the sauce and your favourite

Sunday accompaniments for a great roast dinner, or simply with some chips and peas.

Alec Gilmour at the Clive Arms

EAGLES FLIES

A fantastic outside space

The Three Eagles is open Monday to Thursday from noon to 10.30pm (last food orders 9pm), Fridays and Saturdays from noon to 11pm (last food orders 9.30pm) and Sundays noon to 10pm (last food orders 8pm). To book a table, call 01978 869595 or visit www.thethreeeagles.co.uk

GOOD NEWS FOR BREWS

Breweries and beer businesses are hopeful of increased government support after MPs seemed to react positively to the idea, according to Beer Today

As pubs reopen across England and Wales, many brewers still have a long way to go before their businesses feel stable. But thanks to ongoing pressure from several organisations, including CAMRA, MPs showed their support during a recent parliamentary debate for long-term reforms and Covid support packages to help pubs and brewers.

MPs were debating support for the hospitality industry, with parliamentarians from all corners of the UK taking part. Selaine Saxby, MP for North Devon, who brought about the discussion in the first place, said in her opening remarks that a lower draught beer duty “would be targeted, quickly-actioned support and could play a crucial role in stopping so many of our vibrant pubs and other hospitality businesses from going under”.

Her suggestion of a new draught beer duty rate, which CAMRA has long campaigned for, was echoed by MPs from across the UK. They also called for more support for brewers, who have been adversely affected by lockdown. Charlotte Nichols MP, chair of the Pubs All-Party Parliamentary Group, said the loss of trade for brewers owing to closed pubs “represents 10 years of lost growth for the sector” and called for more compensation and support to help them recover.

Promising politics

Speaking after the debate, CAMRA chair Nik Antona said: “We were thrilled to see so many MPs from all parties and across the nations of the UK take part, displaying just how important pubs, clubs and breweries are within the hospitality industry and wider communities.

“Further support for our brewers is a must – they have been denied a dedicated support package so far, and we were pleased that several MPs called on the government to reverse plans to change Small Brewers Relief, which would cause small businesses to pay more tax. This would be a devastating blow, at what is already a time of great financial uncertainty, and we thank the MPs who raised this.”

WINE ON A DIET

Pip Gale of Gales Wine Bar in Llangollen looks at how you can enjoy wine and watch the calories at the same time

Changing our dietary habits – whether because we wish to lose weight, feel healthier or both – is often a major undertaking, one that is mainly achieved by making a few minor improvements across a number of life’s habits. One way in which many of us struggle is when it comes to alcohol.

Alcohol may not contain fat, but where’s there’s alcohol there are calories. This is because alcohol has sugar that has undergone a transformation. And while it’s often claimed that wine has magical health benefits – from antioxidants to anti-inflammatory qualities – such stories are also accompanied by the stipulation of “everything in moderation”, so don’t think you can get off lightly. “A standard glass of wine contains 160 calories”

Not all wine is equal when it comes to calorie content either. As a general rule, the higher the alcohol content the higher the calories. So wines over 14% ABV, dessert wines and fortified wines all have crazy amounts of calories.

Sweet treats

I know this because one of my favourite wines is a Pedro Ximenez sherry that contains a ridiculous amount of sugar – 500g per litre – and has an alcohol content of 17%, which means that in one small glass there are 320 calories. A standard glass of red or white wine with 13% ABV contains around 160 calories, while a large glass has the same number of calories as a Mars Bar. It also should go without saying that having a glass of wine also lowers your willpower and makes you more likely to eat that Mars Bar too.

Even champagne contains more sugar than you would guess. Producers often add something called dosage – a sugar syrup Counting the calories that is used to mask the wine’s high levels of acidity. To avoid these hidden calories, look for one with no dosage – called an extra brut.

So let’s state the obvious: moderation is the key. Drink less, upgrade your wine to something special and take solace in the fact that it has fewer calories than a beer or a gin and tonic.

Geraint Hughes from Welsh food company Madryn

Discover the all-American snack that has been given a Welsh twist by one Pwllheli company

Jones Popcorn is part of a new range of snacks flavoured with

Halen Môn sea salt from Anglesey and Blodyn Aur rapeseed oil from hills above Llanfihangel Glyn Myfyr in Conwy. It joins a collection of Welsh treats under the Jones brand, including individual slices of bara brith and twin packs of Welsh cakes, as well as chocolate from Bala. The snack selection is sold by the Bwydydd Madryn food company based in Pwllheli, which recently opened a new warehouse to cope with burgeoning demand.

Bwydydd Madryn was set up by agri-food expert Geraint Hughes in 2012 to promote and provide an outlet for Welsh produce, which he describes “We felt as the best in the world. “The spur for establishing there was Bwydydd Madryn was to have more of an influence a gap for on the food chain so we could provide an outlet for Welsh food producers,” he says. “When times are difficult, it’s important not to retreat into Welsh snack products” your shell. We’ve done the complete opposite and been proactive in speeding up the launch of new products.”

The firm employs three other people, including Geraint’s business partner James Hughes. “The snacks market is run by multinationals, so we wanted to bring Welsh brands together so we could also have a slice of the market,” says James. “One consequence of the pandemic is that there seems to be a bit of a backlash against globalisation with people wanting more localisation. The story behind the produce and its provenance is important and we felt there was a gap for Welsh snack products.”

Jones Popcorn is available in two varieties: Salted and Sweet & Salty. For more information, visit www.madryn.co.uk.

Hot Fire Tried and tasted! Honey sauces

Add a spicy fl avour to all manner of dishes with this Welsh-inspired condiment

North Wales bee farmer Laurence Edwards, who runs Black Mountain Honey with his partner Helen Bresser, has combined natural sweet honey with fiery Welsh-grown chillies. The result is Hot Fire Honey, which can be used as a dressing or marinade or drizzled over a pizza. It gives any meat, fish, cheese, pizza or pasta a delicious sweet honey and hot kick. The flavours are nicely balanced to complement savoury dishes – it goes just as well on pork and chicken as it does on vegetables, rice and couscous.

“I wanted to create a fully Welsh product, so we work in partnership with Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm,” says Laurence. “They supply us with an exclusive blend of homegrown Welsh chilli powder, which we blend with our honey. We are proud to work alongside a truly fantastic Welsh producer.”

There are a number of products in the Hot Fire Honey range alongside the Original flavour, including Mustard Sauce, which is like a mild English mustard with a tangy, salty flavour, and Scorpion Hot Sauce. A nice touch was the pollinatorfriendly packet of wildflower seeds that came with our order.

Hot Fire Honey sauces cost from £7.99 for 145ml and are available to buy direct from www.hotfirehoney.co.uk.

Our verdict: Delicious for lovers of hot food!

Discover a local foodie heaven!

Market Drayton in north Shropshire is Jones’s Coffee celebrated as the home of gingerbread, House, which and has a thriving independent food and drink sells chutneys scene as well as a twice-weekly market. and homemade The town is home to Joules Brewery, as well as wines from its several independent shops. These include the Refill local Colehurst Emporium, a zero-waste grocery and cupboard- Vineyard. There essentials store; Margaret’s Farm, a specialist are also several in antipasti, cured meats, cheese, wines, beers restaurants of and spirits; The Fields Kitchen, selling freshly note, including cooked meals made with meat from its home- The Town House, the Red Lion pub and reared Aberdeen Angus herd; Sherwood Goldstone Hall. Also notable are the several farm Wholefoods, which sells herbal food shops ringing the town, including Park Hill Farm

To see supplements, homeopathic remedies, and community-owned Fordhall Organic Farm.more local food heroes, aromatherapy oils and a large selection of whole and gluten-free foods; The town has a thriving festival scene too, with two music festivals, an arts festival and the awardturn to Adelaide’s Chocolaterie, purveyor winning Ginger & Spice Festival. To find out page 60! of handmade Belgian chocolate; and more, visit www.discovermarketdrayton.co.uk.

Seek out local treats

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Meet Eryl Jones, the latest addition to the Shire stable (pun very much intended), whose new column will take a whimsical, bucolic look at the countryside that surrounds us

Ilive an agreeable Good Life existence beasts would lay waste to every green plant in the countryside. just outside Graigfechan, near Ruthin, Secondly, youngsters need to learn to forage for their dinner and where 50 hens, a large vegetable plot, a they aren’t going to do that by just hopping over to the nearest 65ft polytunnel and a small flock of Dorset bird table for free handouts. Lastly, like it or not, natural selection Down sheep keep me out of mischief. Any is a vital part of survival. There is no doubt that weaker specimens surplus eggs and veg we produce are put on are now surviving to breed because “artificial” food is on hand all a stall by our gate, along with an honesty year round, and no energy or brain power has to be expended in box – or honesty jam jar in this case. finding it. Many garden birds are under threat for different reasons We have an abundance of wildlife and we are doing them no favours by weakening the gene pool. hereabouts, some of which make Feathered chimney sweeps unwelcome visits to my veg garden and chicken “I have a great deal I am very lucky in that our village has a thriving pub, run. As well as the common or garden, we also of faith in Mother or at least it was until lockdown. The regulars are an have elusive muntjac deer and majestic red Nature because, eclectic mix of artisans, professionals and eccentrics, kites, while otters inhabit local tributaries of by and large, she and the topics of discussion are just as wide ranging. the River Clwyd. I am surrounded by farmland of varying quality and elevation, which in turn gets things right” Just before the enforced closure, we were discussing chimney sweeps and the paucity thereof. Indeed, as supports a wide range of agricultural practices. In coal and wood are now looked upon as Satan’s fuel, it other words, I’m not short of subject matter for this column! was mooted that they could go the way of coopers and wheelwrights, with protruding brushes from chimney pots becoming a thing of the New planting plans past. An elderly local suggested that in the absence of a specialist, As I write, spring is slowly getting the upper hand, which means the we could go back to the old country method of chimney cleaning. race is on to get the garden planted out. This year, I’ve switched to This involved clambering on to the roof and dropping a live cockerel raised beds. Although the soil quality is very good in the veg garden, down the chimney. Apparently, the combination of rapidly flapping it is surrounded by trees and you don’t have to go very far down before wings and gravity cleaned the flue a treat. The fire, we were assured, hitting a mosaic of tree roots. This not only makes cultivation difficult, remained unlit during the procedure. Well, that’s all right then. but also results in stunted and amusingly shaped root vegetables. Fine for a double-entendre chortle, but not very productive. Raised beds will also mean a lot less digging, which is all right by me. Eryl Jones was born and brought up on a small Welsh I have a great deal of faith in Mother Nature because, by and large, she gets things right. This week, I have dismantled my bird feeding station and put it away until autumn, as I do not feed farm. Following three years at the Welsh Agricultural College in Aberystwyth, he became farm manager on a large estate in Northamptonshire. Later, he farmed on his own account before retiring. Eryl has a passion our feathered friends during the summer. Now I know this goes for the countryside, rare-breed British livestock against the received wisdom from various ornithological societies, and the rural way of life. As well as running his own but I have three valid reasons for doing so. Firstly, if it is any sort smallholding, he does voluntary environmental work with of a summer, there is a smorgasbord of creepy crawlies on which Denbighshire Council and writes on all matters rural. to feed their young and if the birds didn’t harvest them, these mini

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