FOOD for THOUGHT

Simon Doyle is one of Anglesey’s top chefs – he’s known for his traditional local foods with a zippy bistro flavour. After travelling the world and cooking in some famous kitchens he came home to Wales, together with patisserie specialist chef Nia Doyle, and established Harrys ’s Bistro at Henllys Hall in beautiful Beaumaris as one of North Wales’ must-try top eateries.

Simon’s Salt-baked celeriac, yeast glaze, braised red cabbage with crispy kale

“A wonderful vegetarian dish of salt-based celeriac with crispy kale and red cabbage, well worth the preparation for a special taste. Try out this recipe for four people.”

INGREDIENTS

For the celeriac:

• 300g plain flour

• 300g salt

• 5 egg whites

• Approx 275ml water

• 1 celeriac approx 400g

• 4 tbsp yeast extract

• 1 tbsp chopped rosemary or thyme

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 160°C, gas 3.

To make the crust, combine the flour, salt, egg white and water and mix thoroughly to form a paste.

Wash the celeriac thoroughly, trim off any roots and cut a small amount from the base so it sits flat.

Add a mound of the salt crust to a sturdy baking tray and spread out slightly to make a base for the celeriac, ensuring the base is slightly wider than the bottom of the celeriac. Place the celeriac on top and use the remaining salt crust to completely cover it – make sure there aren’t any gaps. Place tray in the oven.

After 3 hours, or once the pastry forms a hard, golden crust, remove from the oven. Leave to cool.

Crack the crust using a rolling pin or similar utensil. Remove the celeriac and cut into wedges or slices. Place on a baking tray. Heat your grill.

Warm the yeast extract and spread over the celeriac using a pastry brush. Sprinkle over the chopped rosemary and grill until the glaze bubbles and starts to caramelise.

Serve with the red cabbage and crispy kale.

RED CABBAGE

• 1 small red cabbage

• 1 sliced red onion

• 70g brown sugar

• 70ml white wine vinegar

•50ml red wine

Quarter the red cabbage and remove the core, then finely shred. Tip into a large pan with the red onion, brown sugar, cider vinegar and red wine, and season well. Bring to a simmer, then cover with a lid, lower the heat and cook for 1 hours, stirring every so often. Remove the lid and continue cooking for 30 minutes until tender.

CRISPY KALE

• 100g kale, stalks removed

• 8 tbsp olive oil

• Sprinkle of sea salt

Heat oven to 150°C and line a large baking tray with baking parchment. Wash the kale and dry thoroughly. Place in a large bowl, tearing any large leaves into smaller pieces. Drizzle over the oil, then massage into the kale. Sprinkle over some sea salt, mix well, then tip onto the tray and spread out in a single layer. Bake for 18-22 minutes or until crisp but still green, then leave to cool for a few minutes.

Great tastes

Pick of the Producers

Celebrating a half-century in business has been extra-special for one local food producer who scooped a top award at the same time

Didknow?youGlaslyn is named after the river that runs Beddgelertthrough

Much-loved ice cream parlour and pizzeria Glaslyn, based in Beddgelert, was a double winner at the Great Taste Awards 2022, receiving plaudits for its Mint Chocolate Chip and Salted Caramel flavours. The family-run firm, which employs 36 staff in peak season, 10 throughout the year, has been a hit with customers for generations. Founded by Joan and Bert Rowley, the net-zero company is now run by granddaughter Bonnie, who is focused on furthering sustainability while retaining skilled traditional methods and continuing to support independent producers across North Wales.

“We were absolutely delighted to be recognised at the Great Taste Awards, not once but twice,” she said. “Quality has always been paramount for us – from our team to the food and service – and that will always be the case, especially as we undergo the process of launching a new wholesale department. Becoming net zero was always a priority as we recognise our impact on the community and our environment.”

Blending old and new

Supplying ice cream to local cafes, shops and attractions including Glaslyn Osprey Centre, Welsh Highland Railway, Sygun Copper Mine and Llyn Gwynant campsite, Glaslyn also uses nearby suppliers – Halen Môn and Purple Moose Brewery among them – and its hand-stretched, stone-baked pizzas feature ingredients from local independents such as Madarch Cymru and Snowdonia Cheese.

“Winning these awards gives us confidence we are moving in the right direction by blending old and new,” said Bonnie, “from recipes handed down by my dad Derek to using world-class gelato machinery to produce artisan batch ice cream. We have always been determined to grow slowly and organically, hand in hand with our community. We would like to thank everyone who has given us so much support.” Follow Glaslyn on Instagram and Facebook @glaslynbeddgelert and check out their website at www.glaslynices.co.uk

Refill your cupboard, one spirit at a time

Cheshire-based company, The Spirit Cupboard, has launched a mobile app that makes purchasing alcoholic spirits simple. Founded by Hywel Shaw and Will Lucas and developed by London-based developer Fortnight, the app allows you to rate, review and purchase over 10,000 spirits!

The source of inspiration? A family gin cupboard under the stairs. The app has an impressive selection of Gin, Vodka, Whiskey and Rum. The orders are fulfilled by trusted suppliers and online retailers such as Master of Malt, Amazon and The Whiskey Exchange, allowing you to discover your next favourite bottle at a competitive price. www.spiritcupboard.co.uk