Y Parlwr in Rhosneigr, Anglesey

is brand-new restaurant in the stunning seaside village of Rhosneigr is the brainchild of top Welsh chef He n Roberts, who also oversees the menus at Sandy Mount House across the way

Hefin – or Hef as he’s more familiarly known – worked at Michelin-starred Ynyshir Hall, is a former member of the Welsh National Culinary Team and went on to win three AA Rosettes, five Good Food Guide mentions and ‘Best Restaurant in Wales’ as Head Chef at The Bull in Beaumaris. So, he knows his stuff. We were therefore very keen to see what he would do given total creative freedom in the kitchen.

While choosing wine we enjoyed sourdough bread, and butter flavoured with the Moroccan spice mix ras el hanout – legend has it the ‘mother’ for Hef ’s sourdough has been kept going for over 20 years! This was followed by a delicate savoury biscuit sandwiched with a purée of Hafod cheese, and a teaspoon of traditional Welsh laverbread (seaweed) jam. The distinctive flavour of the cheese was not at all diminished by the process, which apparently involves egg whites, ice cubes and a lot of whisking!

The seafood dishes were a marvel. The first was served on a striking golden skeleton of fish bones (see top right), with a warm broth on the side. Three individual pieces included salt cod and cuttlefish, each a delicate and delicious experience. This was followed with shrimp and oysters in broth, served with a cube of sweet onion

DID YOU KNOW?

Cuttlefish is high in protein and a delicious alternative to squid fudge. Our final fish dish was three good-sized local scallop halves, in a shell with Japanese umeboshi (plum) rice.

Venison was served tartare in tiny cubes with sharp beetroot flavours, inside a delicate scallop biscuit, topped with nasturtium leaves, grown in the restaurant. Locally sourced Welsh beef followed – generous cuts of sirloin and fillet, medium rare and beautifully succulent, with carrot and radish and the most delicious savoury stock we’ve ever tasted. The pot must have been bubbling for days. We were then in transition from savoury to sweet, with a startling candyfloss, banana and bacon creation. Two stunning desserts followed, with the honey and mead cream, meticulously crafted by the talented Ffion, standing out as our favourite. Her dessert-making expertise has blossomed through a dedication to learning and the guidance of her renowned mentor.

The Bill

Dining Experience (choose from standard, vegetarian, pescatarian, carnitarian)

Having devoted himself to mastering traditional fine dining, Hef has been given licence to express his creativity and skill at Y Parlwr and is thoroughly enjoying himself. The presentation is remarkable, every detail exquisitely done, and the combinations of taste and texture are always interesting, sometimes unexpected, but enjoyment never takes a back seat to aesthetics. It’s a lovely, fun and friendly atmosphere, with an intimate capacity of just 20 people. Restaurant manager Dan, and his serving staff, possess extensive knowledge of the dishes and ingredients, and Hef himself will pop out to say hello. There are very few restaurants on the Shire patch that achieve this level of excellence. Go experience Y Parlwr for yourself.

10 courses £135

Wine flight £65

Hefin has created everything at Y Parlwr – the menus, the décor, the wine list, even the plates on which the dishes are served. The attention to detail in the food is incredible, the combinations and ingredients both local and surprising. This is a fine dining experience you won’t forget.