How Rappers Have Become the New Fashion Royalty by daneeshapatel

HOW RAPPERS HAVE BECOME THE NEW FASHION ROYALTY

Daneesha Patel (N0781330) Word Count: 1971

I can confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.

D.Patel (N0781330)

INTRODUCTION 06 AS BRAND AMBASSADORS 08 AS COLLABORATORS 16 AS CREATORS 22 AS INFLUENCERS 28 CONCLUSION 36 REFERENCES 38

INTRODUCTION Throughout history, the influence of music on fashion, and vice versa, is one of mutual creative impact. A comment which Karl Lagerfeld made in 1999 of that ‘music is really where the fashion influence comes from today. That brings the colour. That brings everything […] that is the only thing that’s really fashionable influence’ remains relevant today in 2020. The two art forms are used as a means of expression and therefore provide a sense of community and belonging for consumers. Collaborations between fashion and music have led to many memorable eras in history, such as the ‘skinhead’ culture which emerged following the popularisation of rock and punk music in the 1960s. This essay will explore the growing impact of rap artists and their music on the marketing and branding of luxury fashion houses in popular culture. The piece will highlight the significant crossovers between the two aspects in terms of their collaborations in brand campaigns, physical collections, key fashion events and even lyrics.

AS BRAND AMBASSADORS

As musicians are now starting to expand their creative portfolio beyond their music career, it is not uncommon for musicians to represent luxury fashion brands, either by modelling in campaigns or becoming brand ambassadors. High fashion brands need to be very specific when selecting a brand ambassador that reflects its brand values to ensure a consistent brand message. Celebrity advertising is an effective marketing method to build brand awareness as the consumer will affiliate their emotions towards the celebrity with the brand, and vice versa. The recruitment of rappers is becoming increasingly prominent in the luxury fashion industry due to the rising popularisation of rap music.

“I adore your Dior” A$AP ROCKY

A$AP Rocky as one of the most influential style icons in rap music has several ties to the luxury fashion industry. His partnership with Dior is an example of celebrity advertising. In 2016 A$AP Rocky became the face of Dior Homme and modelled in Dior’s F/W’16 and S/S’17 advert campaigns. Recruiting Rocky allowed Dior to reinvent their brand and move away from their traditional reputation to appeal to a broader, younger demographic in light of the emerging streetwear trend. This is evident as Kris Van Assche, Dior’s artistic director at the time had commented that Rocky successfully captures ‘the empowered masculinity of today’s urban dandy’. 11

A$AP Rocky continued to represent Dior outside of advertising campaigns as he wore Dior’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ t-shirt in the ‘Wrong’ music video with A$AP Ferg. The music video released in June 2017 has since had over 8.5 million views on YouTube, reaching a wider audience. The t-shirt released in Chiuri’s debut collection is a nod to Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s book, and Rocky utilised this partnership to show his support of Feminism. This leads fans of A$AP Rocky to view Dior as an aspirational brand and one they are more likely to buy.

Another example of a successful celebrity advertisement is Gucci’s partnership with rapper Gucci Mane. He became the face of Gucci Cruise 2020 as part of the #ComeAsYouAre_RSVP’ campaign in October 2019. This collaboration was long-anticipated and sparked a positive reception from consumers using the hashtag online, due to the tongue-in-cheek play on Gucci Mane’s stage name. The fashion house had chosen the perfect time for this partnership as the campaign was meant to embody the luxury house’s ‘playful, liberated and libertarian, and also inclusive, hedonist and uninhibited’ spirit (Gucci, 2019). All of which are qualities associated with Gucci Mane. This partnership proved to be beneficial for both Gucci and Gucci Mane as Gucci Mane utilised an image from the campaign as his album cover for ‘Woptober II’. This successfully raised awareness of the brand and Gucci Mane’s new album.

AS COLLABORATORS In recent years many luxury brands have taken advantage of the fact that the music industry is synonymous with the fashion industry and have collaborated with several musicians, musicians of the hip-hop and rap genre in particular. Collaborations between the two have become a common marketing strategy used by brands to raise brand awareness amongst a wider demographic. The partnerships generate a buzz and drive sales as fans of the artistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; view the products as a sort of collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s item and merchandise. Also, the collaborations create the connotation of a premium, trustworthy brand which further encourages consumers to buy the products from the collections.

GUESS collaborated with A$AP Rocky to launch a limited-edition collection in October 2017. The rapper and brand had worked together prior in 2015 with the A$AP Mob x GUESS collection and in a 2016 campaign for GUESS Originals. The 2017 collection included restocked previously released items in addition to new styles. The success and popularity of the partnership is evident from the second collection released. The exclusive element of the collection further adds to the desirability for consumers and hence increased sales.

In January 2017 high fashion brand, Helmut Lang released a collection with Travis Scott. The range included ‘menswear staples [...] branded with the kind of bold graphics that you’d expect just not from a streetwear fanatic, but from a young man whose music and concerts don’t trade much on subtlety.’ (Woolf, 2017) hence the collection is an accurate representation of Travis Scott’s style. When creating exclusive capsule collections with musicians, brands need to guarantee garments which are consistent with the personality of both the brand and celebrity. It is essential to be consistent as consumers nowadays are surrounded by an unrealistic reality on social media, so they respect authenticity; ‘When a brand is authentic, consumers know it, appreciate it and prioritize their spending accordingly.’ (Fertik, 2019) this, in turn, increases the chance of brand loyalty.

“Nike boys for real, Helmut Lang for real” TRAVIS SCOTT

“I’m a nice dude, with some nice dreams, See these ice cubes? See these Icecreams? PHARRELL

AS CREATORS Many rappers have decided to expand their relationship with fashion further than the occasional capsule collection and have launched their own clothing lines. Musicians use previous collaborations with existing fashion houses to build their own brands. (Brook, 2018) Rappers can explore this business venture due to their reputation of having a unique and trendy style. Therefore, the clothing line would be aspirational to fans of the artist in addition to the general public. A potential reason behind this decision is the rise of streaming services such as Apple Music, Spotify, Tidal and Soundcloud. According to the BPI, the sales of CDs had dropped by 23% in 2018 as only 32 million CDs sold which was almost 100 million fewer than in 2008. Streaming services now account for ‘64% of all music consumption in the UK with an estimated retail value of £1.33 billion.’ (Whitby, 2019) Therefore music artists use sales from their clothing line to supplement their income and create additional revenue. This proves to benefit the artist further as the clothing line raises awareness and ‘helps carry a theme started with an album or a single through an entire era of a career.’ (McIntyre, 2017)

“Yeezy, Yeezy, Yeezy just jumped over Jumpman” KANYE WEST

Kanye West’s YEEZY is an example of a successful clothing brand created by a rapper influenced by streetwear culture. Kanye West has the reputation of being a very influential style icon who had sparked fashion trends such as shutter shades, leather joggers and full red sneakers. ‘An unnamed source said West earns 5% royalties on net sales of the products, which means he would be earning 65 million US dollars at the end of 2019.’ (van Elven, 2019) YEEZY established in 2015 is well known for its minimalistic designs and toned-down neutral colours. The brand’s CEO is Adidas’ Kasper Rorsted and has an ongoing YEEZY x Adidas collaboration which receives a buzz from ‘hypebeasts’. Initially, YEEZY only released up to three collections a year, but in 2018 Adidas introduced more colourways due to high demand. The notoriously high resale prices reflect the popularity of the brand as YEEZY sneakers ‘have become a line in the sand between those who see them as the ultimate status symbols.’ (Danforth, 2019) 25

“Bentley tints on, Fendi prints on” NICKI MINAJ

“Make the shit, I wear the shit, they cop the shit, it’s GOLF you bitch” TYLER, THE CREATOR 27

AS INFLUENCERS

Marketing techniques of this sort is beneficial for both parties as rappers use designer fashion labels in their songs as a ‘symbol of status’ and flex. (Morency, 2018) Their ‘brand-dropping’ in songs enables the rappers to brag about their newly acquired wealth since joining the ‘rap-game’. A$AP Rocky successfully did this on his 2013 single ‘Fa$hion Killa’, name-dropping a total of 27 high-end brands. ‘Brand-dropping’ in songs leads to an increased level of brand awareness for listeners of the song. Previously hip-hop culture was thought to dilute the couture of luxury fashion brands. However currently, brands such as Dior, Louis Vuitton and Gucci invite rap moguls such as Kanye West, the A$AP Mob, Metro Boomin and Future to their fashion shows and other events in the popularisation of streetwear style. This is a successful marketing technique for reaching Generations Y and Z, which will account for ‘45% of the global luxury spend by 2025’. (Bains & Company) The rappers attending the all-important fashion events are likely to post pictures and stories on their social media accounts. Social media is a crucial tool for fashion brands to market themselves and connect with consumers. Therefore, when rappers with a large social media following post or repost the brands, the brand appears more accessible to buy.

“Now it’s all about Versace, you copied my style” TUPAC

Luxury brands have not only invited rappers to watch fashion shows, but also to model in them. In 1995 Gianni Versace asked Tupac to walk in the F/W 1996 show in Milan alongside his girlfriend at the time, Kidada Jones. Tupac dressed in a gold velvet suit from the collection and began performing his iconic hit ‘California Love’. This paved the way for rappers walking as models in modern-day. Virgil Abloh often enlists his rapper friends to star in his runway shows. In 2018 for his debut S/S 2019 collection for Louis Vuitton at the Palais Royal gardens, Abloh had the likes of Kid Cudi, Playboi Carti, A$AP Nast and Octavian walk down the runway. As this particular show held the concepts of diversity and streetwear as central ideas, it was a significant choice to use his friends. Abloh had previously used Offset (1/3 of rap group Migos) and Playboi Carti to walk in his Off-White F/W 2019 show in Paris. Involving black rappers in high fashion events allows these brands to seem inclusive and accessible to consumers from all backgrounds. 31

- PLAYBOI CARTI

- OCTAVIAN

- KID CUDI

- ASAP NAST

CONCLUSION

The crossover between luxury fashion houses and rap music is definite to continue. The fusion of the two is useful in marketing than traditional forms of media because it creates the impression of a trusted, authentic brand if done right. These collaborations have enabled brands to become more accessible to a broader demographic. This is in particular for the urban, black population. ‘It’s important for this generation and the next generation to see people that look like them or that inspire them, because fashion isn’t just for the elite any more.’ (A$AP Rocky, 2018) Brands enlist rappers to relate to consumers on a personal level and develop a real connection within the era of the influencer. Brands need to embrace the urban culture to remain relevant as ‘[Rappers] are going to be the most influential brands in the future, and if you want your brand to have any relevance with a young audience you need to embrace this, and you need to make it a general part of your strategy moving forward.’ (Van Assche, 2018) Failure to develop their strategy could potentially lead to a decrease in sales due to the inability to keep up. This is particularly important for heritage brands which are in need to develop their brand message to consider.

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