FEATURES
70
HOPS, OREGON Following craft beer from the fall hop harvest to the brewer, and, finally, the pint consumer. by Sophia McDonald
78
SEARCH & RESCUE The story of the crews who risk their lives to save others indanger. by John Mounts
86 APPARITION FALLS The story of the man who searched over 20 years to locate for Apparition Falls. by Tom Kloster
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GALLERY 1859 prowls Portland’s Pearl District art galleries to uncover the Northwest’s most promising visual artists.
92 PORTLANDIA The story behind the statue.
DEPARTMENTS AROUND OREGON 24 NOTEBOOK
Replicas, New Year’s Eve, Tea, Holiday Gift Guide.
36 ROAD RECONSIDERED
Portland to Astoria: city to sea on Highway 30.
38 72 HRS IN THE PEARL
Retail therapy on NW Glisan, pubs crawls and a book lover’s search.
LOCAL HABIT 51 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE
Painter Sarah Goodnough turns fish, bridges and boats into dreamy oils.
54 FROM WHERE I STAND
Baker City: Gold, cattle and a classically Western town keep the Oregon Trail alive.
58
The debate over clear-cutting in Oregon’s state forests continues.
VENTURES 62 INTO THE SOUL
Bud Valian ref lects on a lifetime in the ski industry.
64 BUSINESS PROFILE
Hydro Graphic comes up with the winning formula for a team full of helmeted athletes.
66 WRITER’S CORNER
Young adult fiction author, Roland Smith shares how his work ethic develops heroic characters.
68 GAME CHANGERS
Potters come together to combat hunger with the Empty Bowls Project. 3 | VOLUME 21 | 1859 | OREGON’S MAGAZINE
THE
SEARCH OVER IS
APPARITION FALLS
This view up the canyon from the entry point reveals plenty of water in Cast Creek, and the forest flora just beginning to leaf out.
Tom Kloster tells the story of his 20 year search
om is a native of Portland, Oregon,
T
down Lolo Pass Road from
almost exactly twenty years
and has worked as a city planner in
a hike on Mount Hood. As
later, in May 2003, when my
the Portland area for more than 25 years.
a rounded a bend near the
wife Deborah and I were
west end of the Muddy Fork
driving down he same stretch
valley, I suddenly saw what
of Lolo Pass Road, and I
advocate in his personal life. Tom is also
appeared to be a large twin
finally saw the falls again!
an avid photographer, and has developed
waterfall, half-hidden in the
This time, I was prepared
deep forests below Zigzag
with camera and tripod, and
Mountain.
took images that helped me
in urban design, community activism,
Lacking a camera, or even
definitively locate the falls,
photography, history and the outdoors.
a decent topographic map,
and prove that they were not
I pulled over and tried to
shown on any map.
Who is Tom?
T
He is an active conservationist and trail
this web site as an outlet for his interests
his expedition really
again, despite trying on every
started in 1983,
trip up Lolo Pass Road.
when I was driving
memorize the location. Yet
My frustration ended
The falls are on Cast Creek,
for the next 20 years, I was
on the north side of Zigzag
never able to locate the falls
Mountain. The source of
92 | VOLUME 21 | 1859 | OREGON’S MAGAZINE
the falls are two lakes,
This is probably the
three friends and waterfall
Cast Lake and Dumbell
single best explanation
veterans, Ted Leybold, Matthew
Lake. Each is tucked
for why these falls have
Hampton and Greg Lief. We
into high glacial cirques
not been discovered.
were joined by a three-man
along the summit ridge
crew from the Oregon Public
of Zigzag Mountain,
for the first recorded visit
Broadcasting Oregon Field
and each feeds a distinct
to the falls and process of
Guide program.
branch of Cast Creek.
naming Apparition Falls on
Apparition ” comes from the ghostlike nature of the falls, which disappear into the shadows in all but the perfect degree of overcast weather. “
Thus began the planning
The OPB crew included
official maps. On a sunny
producer and reporter Jim
April 23, 2004, I led a group
Newman, videographer Todd
of seven explorers up Cast
Sonflieth and sound technician
Creek to find the elusive
Randy Layton. Over the
waterfall. The team involved
course of a day, we followed
After the short walk through the “Little Gorge”, Rory emerges from the thicket of salmonberry and devils club at the base of Little Gorge Falls. This beautiful cascade stairsteps into the gorge in twin curtains (below).
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C
ast Creek Falls, better known as
Cast Creek through deep
“Little Gorge” that appeared
forest, past a string of smaller
to be impassable on the first
waterfalls, and finally to a high
trek. Matthew Hampton, Greg
overlook of Apparition Falls.
Lief, Jon Osborn and Rory
This journey was broadcast in
Nichols joined me for the 2005
looking for them even though they’re right
November 2004 on OPB.
trip, and this visit included a
there. You’ll be rewarded with a two-segment
In 2005, a second group
detailed measurement of the
repeated the trip, this time
falls that was not possible on
following a stream-level
the 2004 trip.
route to the base of the falls, including a trip through the
Tom Kloster
Apparition Falls, are about 6/10 of a mile
up Cast Creek where it intersects with Forest Rd 382. Like any apparition, you have to be
waterfall of about 150 feet. Do note that though Apparition Falls is close to the road, the trip there is challenging and shouldn’t be done alone or by inexperienced hikers. mthoodmagazine.com
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After a brief scramble through the dense forest, the group arrived at the first cascade on Cast Creek, a pint-sized drop we called Trillium Falls. What this little waterfall lacks in magnitude it makes up in charm, framed by a steep cliff and hemmed in by moss-draped trees.
Shortly after the first crossing, the route entered an especially lush section of canyon that was lined with hundreds of white trilliums, one of the earliest flowers to bloom in spring, and perhaps the most regal of our forest flowers.
The canyon quickly became choked with huge, centuryold logs from the 1904 Burnt Lake Fire (right) that consumed the ancient forests along the north slope of Zigzag Mountain. Amazingly, the bleached snags from some of these old giants are still standing, while others now form small waterfalls where they block Cast Creek. 95 | VOLUME 21 | 1859 | OREGON’S MAGAZINE
SCULPTED BY RAYMOND KASKEY ABOVE THE ENTRANCE OF THE MICHAEL GRAVES BUILDING IN DOWNTOWN PORTLAND PORTLANDIA WAS INSPIRED BY THE CITY’S SEAL SECOND-LARGEST COPPER REPOUSSE STATUE IN THE UNITED STATES, SECOND ONLY TO THE STATUE OF LIBERTY THE COPPER HAS BEEN HAMMERED INTO SHAPE BY MORE THAN 50 BLOWS PER SQUARE INCH TO THE THICKNESS OF A DIME PORTLANDIA IS 38 FEET HIGH AND WEIGHS OVER 6.5 TONS IF SHE WERE TO STAND SHE WOULD BE 50’ TALL
PORTLANDIA THE STORY BEHIND THE STATUE
Portland Oregon is home to many things.. friendly people, bridges,rain, beautiful parks and rivers...We are well known for our laid back alternative lifestyle. We are in love with food carts, coffee, and our dogs. However unlike other cities we don’t have a defining landmark, New York has the Statue of Liberty, Seattle the Space Needle, Philadelphia the Liberty Bell, St’Louis the Arch...Portland has...Voodoo Donuts and maybe the Made in Oregon sign, but they fall short of monumental. However there is a famous citizen that often goes unnoticed in our fair city..Portlandia Before being installed at the Portland Building, Portlandia was
floated down the river on a barge and then transported through the city on a large truck. People lined up on the streets to see it. When it reached the building, the people crowded around the sculpture for a chance to touch it before it was installed out of reach.yet, for all her inherent beauty Portlandia remains relatively unknown even to her fellow natives. Some say that it is due to her less than ideal visibility, atop a building that Travel and Leisure has referred to as one of the “most hated buildings in America” Mayor Vera Katz even attempted to have the statue moved in 1998 amidst public support, to a more visible location on Portland/s Waterfront. Due to expense
and possible damage to the statue the plan was abandoned. One vehement opponent to it’s move is the sculptor Raymond kaskey who believes that the statue was designed for where it is and believes thats where it should stay. Some say his close guarding of intellectual property has also lead to her relative anonymity. Unlike the statue of liberty Portlandia may not be reproduced for any commercial purpose without permission from her creator. Regarless of the controversy that surround Portlandia,her questionable home, most agree that taken alone she is a beautiful point of civic pride and uniquely Portland.
SHE KNEELS DOWN AND FROM THE QUIETNESS OF COPPER REACHES OUT. WE TAKE THAT STILLNESS INTO OURSELVES AND SOMEWHERE DEEP IN THE EARTH OUR BREATH BECOMES HER CITY. IF SHE COULD SPEAK THIS IS WHAT SHE WOULD SAY: FOLLOW THAT BREATH. HOME IS THE JOURNEY WE MAKE. THIS IS HOW THE WORLD KNOWS WHERE WE ARE.
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