Womenswear 2015/2016
THE MASCULINE Female...
Danni Wood
Introduction to the masculine womenswear trouser trend Motivations Autumn/Winter print and pattern trends Background and influence of trend Media influence: Vogue Media influence: Grazia Brands associated with the trend Brand case study: COS Street Style
CONTENTS Fashion Imagery Trends
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The Masculine
Womenswear Autumn/Winter 15/16
Female...
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The masculine female trend relates to the current and upcoming trend 15/16 of womenswear trousers both in high-street and high end sectors. Skinny trousers and jeans are being replaced by loose fitted, wide leg trousers, including tailored detail and flares. This trend is part of a continuous cycle as fashion items are revisited. This trend is a major influence of the 70’s and goes back even further than that! The masculine form is being transformed into a female version in a more elegant and sophisticated sense to fit a women’s body. Currently, bold and striking tones of trousers and pattern have been dominant to represent the summer colour palette and season. However, moving into the autumn and winter the tones of trousers are becoming more neutral and soft, with pink and brown shades representing a soft artisan and subtle sense. Patterns are also becoming simpler with monochrome tones, flowing stripes and geometric forms rather than abstract prints.
M Gender Equality T O Caters For All V I Figures
6
A
I
N Inspired By T The Past O S
Pattern Womenswear Autumn/Winter 15/16 Print and Pattern Trends 8
Here, I have researched some of the current and upcoming print and pattern trends for Autumn/ Winter- 15/16 womenswear. WGSN showed that striped and geometric forms seem to be taking dominance, especially in terms of loose fitting trouser garments. Monochrome patterns and neutral tones are further present within these prints as the colour palette tends to tone down when moving into the autumn and winter season. The patterns shown convey a sense of structure and create rigid elements. This allows the stronger aspects of the print to become dominant forming pictorial space, this additionally creates a sense of movement making the pieces more striking and bold.
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Chanel ’s influence
The masculine female trouser trend mainly originates from one of the worlds most influential designers of the 20th century. Chanel’s influence goes down in fashion history and is still going strong to this current day. Chanel was the first designer’s to express gender equality through clothing as she began making her pieces more masculine, using pockets on clothing. This was to fit the new mood of austerity during 1914 and of course World War one. This meant that woman didn’t have to worry about their bags as they could carry their needed items in their pockets. This was originally suited to factory workers, however Chanel transformed this into a fashion trend. In terms of trousers, Chanel was the one to create more masculine trousers that were made for the female body, she noticed that male style clothing could be crafted for females in a more elegant way!
The current ‘Flare’ trouser trend performs a whirl wind of déjà vu as we revisit the 70’s as woman are beginning to re-own a pair of flared trousers/ jeans. This trend hugs a women’s thighs whilst gradually become wider from the knee downwards! This becomes a visually exciting fashion statement when worn with a pair of boots or heels. The 70’s flares represented the disco and glamour trend with inspiration from Olivia Newtion John and Brooke Shields, however, currently this trend is seen in a more sophisticated and elegant light as the patterns and neutral toned fabrics grace the modern females configuration.
1970’s Flares
Where The MEDIA Steps In...
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Vogue... Autumn/ Winter 2015
‘Borrowing
from the boys’ Vogue portrays the current and upcoming feminine trouser trend as ‘equal opportunity’ as male fashion influence spreads across the female agenda crafting a uni-sex appeal and a gender-neutral wardrobe. As the skinny norm dissolves in terms of feminine clothing, it becomes all about fluidity and loose clothing as the detailed lines start to blur. They argue that this trend has been influence by film stars including Doris Day, Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn as their style screams oversized outfits and even presents a tux!
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Grazia
‘Girls step away from the skinny jeans and avoid squeezing into those slim fitting pants as this season it’s all about the slouchy wide leg trousers’. Grazia express how the wider trouser is the next best item NEEDED in a women’s wardrobe. They state how Stella McCartney is a key brand, which presents elegance and classiness through a staple trouser piece nailing this masculine inspired trend.
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Brands associated with the masculine female trouser trend...
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Brand case study- ‘Cos’ is a brand that I feel best represents the current and upcoming female trouser trend. This is mainly because of the wide range of selection they offer, ranging from wide leg and tailored boyfriend trousers to flared and cropped detailing. Their high quality pieces project the masculine inspiration but present how the trend can further be portrayed as elegant and sophisticated at the same time. They offer a selection of neutral tones to represent the upcoming rusty and subtle colour tones, whilst also offering simplistic and elegant lines and patterned garments.
Street Style... 20
Here are both a selection of online and primary street style images that represent the wide leg and flared trouser trend. It is evident that the bold coloured items have been purchased for the summer season, but there is also evidence of the darker and more neutral tones, which represent the upcoming trend the autumn/winter season. It is clear from the imagery that there are a range of different style loose fitted trousers that can be worn casually, for work attire as well as for more dressed up occasions.
The Masculine Female Trend In Fashion Imagery...
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After researching, I have discovered that fashion campaigns, especially luxury designers, including Gucci, Armani, Prada and DVF have adopted the current masculine female trend within their 2015 womenswear ad campaigns. The imagery portrays the wide leg trouser trend but also shares other masculine traits. After analysing it is clear that there are specific trends within the layout, lighting and styling of the imagery and models to depict a particular theme. Firstly, here are some examples of campaigns that portray a trend of soft lighting, which allows the more masculine look to become more subtle and feminine, it projects a more elegant visual appearance appealing to the feminine consumer. Another trend that kept reoccurring was the positioning of the models. It is noticeable that the body language of the models portrays a masculine outlook as you would see more men resting in these positions rather than the regular female; this highlights the current masculine female trend. Not only this, but the styling of the top half of the models works well with the masculine trouser as they have been dressed in shirts and blazers which further represents a more masculine attire.
‘...this it’s all
Sloughy
trousers’
season
about the wide leg
- Grazia 2015
Danni Wood